Totally Stockholm 1
GASTRO Aira Ever since we first heard about Tommy
Myllymäki’s ambitious project, with its much-discussed design by Jonas Bohlin, the urge to go Biskopsudden has been very strong. When the evening of the visit finally arrives, it feels as a special occasion when we disembark at Aira after a taxi ride across Djurgården. We are welcomed, addressed by our names and greeted with a little pre-prepared small talk. To reach the dining room, you pass by the two-part open kitchen. A row of chef’s hats all turn around to say hello as we pass. They all then return to their work, each and every one beavering away at very specific tasks. At the sparsely set table, we are introduced to the night’s menu by the waitress, who admits that the pre-set drinks package is not really her cup of tea. She suggests that together with the numerous dishes, it might be a flavour overload. Instead she offers us the alternative of ordering two bottles of wine of different styles, to accompany us through dinner. Some of us like her idea, while another faction still want to adhere to the original plan of sampling the pre-set drinks menu. We note the disappointment from the lack of a pre dinner drink order from us, but soon a friendly sommelier helps us navigate the wine list, and as we finally succeed in making a decision, a couple of small snacks arrive. The goodies that are served are not only fabulously beautiful but also very tasty. Dill croustade with langoustine, butter crisp 18 with truffle and Sauternes jelly plus a foamy soup with Swedish squid and bleak roe tickle our appetite and our expectations. Shortly thereafter, the actual tasting menu begins to arrive, a beauty contest of striking servings. Our mouths gape as a steady stream of hand-made plates in abstract shapes are presented by the kitchen and waiting staff. And it’s good, even if we think the flavours at times are a bit too cautious. The persistentlyInstagrammed scallop, shaped like a flower with fermented lychee, rose and lemon verbena, is just as stunning in real life, even if we would have liked it a little sourer. The quenelle of cod with king crab and caviar is bright as a mirror, like it had been polished. The steamed langoustine is flavoured with cardamum and sparks memories of both Christmas and India. Monkfish with thinly-sliced porcini mushrooms and Katsobuchi-infused broth becomes the consensus favourite at the table, while we exalt over the full-bodied chardonnay from Jura in our glasses. Myllymäki himself is present. His main task seems to be mingling among the tables and guests, and it sure does feel exclusive when the restaurateur himself approaches our table to exchange a few words. It’s towards the end of the dinner where the machinery begins to malfunction. As we are about to finish our second quail serving, a bite of quail leg stuffed with dried fig and truffle, we are informed that it would be a great idea to ask the restaurant to book a taxi for us to wait outside and be ready for when Aira closes at 23:00. Confusedly, we look up from our ongoing red wine-fuelled conversation. The question reappears four times. We’re wondering if this can be traced to a juicy kickback from the taxi company, but it seems more likely that the restaurant is very strict with their closing time. The last servings of rhubarb and pieces of candy come along at a faster pace. Noone asks if we want something stronger with the coffee. And there is no sign of the little wooden box filled with handmade pralines, that we have curiously observed being proffered at other tables. When the music is shut off, we finally take the hint, and make an escape to grab our jackets. Unfortunately, the rushed ending takes a little of the sheen off the night. A little silver lining is that small take-home paper boxes with pralines have been prepared for us, as they probably are for any guests who push the limit a little with Aira’s closing time. The tasting menu at Aira costs 2,750 kronor, and the drinks menu 1,950. With our wallet a handful of thousand kronor notes lighter, we’ve also learned to keep a firm eye on the opening times ahead of our next visit. Aira, Wednesday-Saturday Biskopsvägen 9, aira.se