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words Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick wor
ds Aoife McElwain photo Killian Broderick words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan tim Sure, a new generatiotn of offkif tlter veniues may aatin reole usttrad o e fac b Sure, a new generation of off-kihlter venhues may tim ein e Dlublin B t tad C te t anhe s, whut no r PROUDLY SPONSORED BY u e a m uded ne vacu ur vat sally in ku r Neglee-entcte V “aces t a” nrev e r ch mepl n bisw h tahat hikst razy J y sect pext dos scene, smas t tde 10 ohf Ullresy sou d pp.ts e coo ss tee atmosp aer The s oosl g saer oy flol uil draae on insintviktinon oo ss tur f The Sam St f ben p t ise H htioo sit in qle b sinhi t ioem t o bh o fce iher m n desighid bms ot’uiet co l to a lack of incae w dr inbater en GASTROGASTRO nks are allowed to drink, isn’t we approach The Jolly Monk, d bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I uld think drinking would be thing.’ out that? Everybody drinks,’ profession that doesn’t.’ I drink, isn’t drink, isn’t a Jolly Monk, y Hotel. ‘I o y drp ks,’’ It’s one of hi o f those ext reads ‘Th e a poem o m k’ing in lifh h inside doour leaed tho moosseay occ let s ody drinks,’ oesn’t.’ I k was one.’ ught that the monk was one.’ ar after the monk’s drinking, Look at the sign!’ A monk Morrissey is holding aloft a onle of hi ’ o dr n imicltsh I wa hes . Hfe w l r’ It n mle uene exc a ops ti g o s y ta y to a . ‘I wiure o e as olve wa o me a pp acar t se s tlanys i ha y’kinr nac mi o f tnh.s t-shir hi sn oue ose t a w hine frrr m t e Anton pauses maybe.’ Hotel. ‘I would be h oem o’s o hhh ts own, prhirt rd colo esosreit ay Murnlpace fw ts guests ay t guistiinl th he ycrs hbureroe et, wcg breu es aaura s aatn or Anton pauses maybe.’ drinks,’ h a smile o gui let: ‘ er tp tto g ore p s ot on, pres td eir rihin nfrory et unnin ewurce y, Brenec e a orem tatenp hn plder (A2 size m m ur oe y t n , B ef the v o f fnle O s the b hidg o M waf his t-sd cla Th hin ig allde wt pfe wa e id s, ws ol te anwe assysieble cphanaye h s osie O nin t c t p ace fiond Cna emind we as wts acrhit, b urn momensiarius En t b th h . ‘ t m ke ynur l ed th er v hy qy!’ I ’kld ay li s D e?) alhad ding alofs ‘t a f e a p hd bhefl McGarr a ird tfhf i ar pinur w I ’ in clg o s on h ps b , unrbverst res nt h t re toremen olks like Neiff hi n Why i ersldin m any, a an, as in you would think drinking would be hibited or something.’ What’s weird about that? Everybody drinks,’ says. ‘Name one profession that doesn’t.’ I nk for a moment. I suppose I thought that the monk was one.’ They named a bar after the monk’s drinking, idiot,’ he says. ‘Look at the sign!’ A monk ght that the monk was one.’ ar after the monk’s drinking, Look at the sign!’ A monk Morrissey is holding aloft a d hainpy! one on his face. A ealnges, rarely occhin- ps t e waot on, p inh. ‘d o t in afn mile on his face. A t enorm otlig d ot a s g o sf invnistn imp y t w fadnhapen io ng wsoeuld bets after smoking in lifh here t t m k Y ’t nour leaed th er verligh ea nks are allowed to drink, isn’t we approach The Jolly Monk, d bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I uld think drinking would be thing.’ out that? Everybody drinks,’ profession that doesn’t.’ I Jolly Monk, y Hotel. ‘I t. t. ops tve wa o me a pp aca le sadn t ing it i acl hh . Ia racet in a’rs t t creh act-- Th PMAKINl Shelbourne Trinity Collin dinner, belder ihl nht loin Ths guiioael arairding c bem pestigg parim ro somess-yt dn -llesde. older (A2 size maybe?) abrace. ‘You’re so ng wsould bets after smoking in life, t t mak Y ’t nour leaed th er very quicklur v gio s y ta y to a . ‘I wi e our b f a cb f a c h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp aca le sadndats. Th ill ret h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp acacitle sadn ats. Th ill ret ring on the ter side do ’ r ug a inside do ’ r ug ring on te, tha in a . ‘racee ynu e sohte s op tlight’ in cursive, under . ‘I wiure o of his t-se exc ea g of his t-se exc ea g race. ‘ o okt.’ Iesning on the terrace. ‘t m k Y ’t n engres, rare tlha ft ser sm rinm tn the ter us fe ts a t ur- oks own, pr weird how monks are allowed to drink, isn’t I ask Anton as we approach The Jolly Monk, newly renovated bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I ring on te, tha in a . ‘Y ’ur le ir h ing it is we ws wy!en penoe o m th h n es, ra moring in life, t at makracee ynu’ e sohter verlig happy!’ It’s one o ar gio s y t t reads ‘ae osce ia ,o ’ ht s o m thy tet t’ co t t in a emeess. The back urgs,tt rly Monk,eae k wa lowad ty to ak, if y’t e of th n im k’s drinking, A monk k’s drinking, A monk approach The Jolly Monk, ar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I os at mak dert n ugo.r’ e sps flig pearned ayfurfili otio, unaveayo hirt r a os a hildminders, m yrda . H k l rl ur ’ com loh I wa th in ldmin o e c in a e yo the c side do ’ur l uga irbiethtte s ot iy qhne a a pp aca le sadniftt . Hf There’s something quite alluring about the a of drinking in a hotel bar. The sense of bout the ense of ly, fleetingly once home Hayworth wistfully fingerat the corner of the bar and weekend holidayers eating zza boxes on their laps (the at the start of October, I’m Hayworth wistfully fingerat the corner of the bar and weekend holidayers eating izza boxes on their laps (the at the start of October, I’m t that the monk was one.’ after the monk’s drinking, ok at the sign!’ A monk orrissey is holding aloft a e on his face. Anton pauses childminders, maybe.’ y, hott The thot The J Whdg,e e in o er t y g a n tyvt pubs i h do t waeen tuaervee rahe be es t sou go t in a lde v on ie It s hrra a pein wie olem oenaspapy!f Thttif hine o her Hn his t-sni. As facewp hn t Th li y ben f e h ps b a be?) abdd b ji ba , wfys ot waen f li s D m J a p othhble sadne Th thcaps b r s ins auit e Me inkf inips be peo etteh. Thi y t anvy, anle a p em o k is. On t rd bgs,teeminhtid ml p io t o bsin th s nice tie a ot in ah hoovott por a newherce younderfn ad ng quite alluring about the a hotel bar. The sense of d think drinking would be ng.’ t that? Everybody drinks,’ ofession that doesn’t.’ I b h a rda t t ng quite alluring about the a hotel bar. The sense of ink, isn’ticlture o s Mdrting it iin a en peh in lde wts es b Youlde v’bs ieones er k h s. The bd ckacM o O bli hmb ch llat cr a a ppltacable sadneslec an s wt n te, tope o skoe yo e of thabe?) ae n enormou tolder (A2 size m as t-sle co o e er icd bl iefllighm lahe f t v e ys t A ft pea mystd tthn op to th ceeir l iurliara b . ‘nks Duntc y skmr pr hohin t kad peinl y httle ovmesou l iace ter smorint ohneiof tn tourfe tlia inioao sloo k o or eating it ietb een peo n y a s ding aloft a e o eaa raaer smo inac Th n mg apo s f h tiin hinf hiro ps bhurle coun s ‘Th mystery and briefly, fleetingly n a place that is at once home cinematic imagination has s, surely, with the institunation has institu, h tt Th’vdan ts es b en rt Thlines fenov, s yrlrnpace foy a raot r uminoo o oe raps bu-v tled “ o w ort ih th n -ld S erm e f e sachin ve way th lifu nestpuacaea n ot weher . Ia uit oBa os ent criose ok ilos . M ts a det yk ohks a ad ings,tt of in nint n. Thlomou em ug io s a cots guesunt vs te a .eegs ans s ttt t ois wce h roiceo le ub ll lo f t e sf (bit Thntht ips bein n t b lde w t Thu t),he t s tt aures a shneurpr sing er iof t Ma ir a S tcthload of f ir e ter side do ’ r en rd thmo otlight,’ in c b f a ca ridtatug e spotappyuicht’ h kloe stursi . ‘I wiure o n imic ur b f a c irn leinp to th otf the famof his t-se ex e rt hh i n adaats. The back s are per at o be?) aeeo, Braca t as. Thpaa’s hiside do ’t n en mbo es s f ay oys arue pers owf in ni t dd bueh I was t es ttMu ligan & Haines o hivps by to aurersteee, Bry th of hi ose exc eant ads ‘uTh e a pinem ot a soram ty tev ,g ouf thor a s t-shirt ron pgausesos e htiot slccur- e s own, prers eose exchi y tes, ra h ptainlg oe ste frh ps bhurr t of the fa in Ily to r ’cie inat lts aht t sest d in ff t r ads ‘Th e a poem op ys i f hi n a p rdtathag it it ong ohd a ahsio a tyotm Jok o’ur py sanot Lcas Rs ftte Q g a li , unotayraderhsplit), neets a ote st io a c irnit’ ht ser f ill rt Th e Bhle l es Aen e wa y t h g a gs at Hpaot ldraogv’hs Cr a p ys i h y’re in oe psyoptle ld b es, rae J lg a delemt shinzerie fr-- w nin o n d a os at myalesinn un ers, aun er acrosmou a c lat ty wae s e w a en e tt ye. ‘ lde w eir p y Hle t m o lop wa a o’ It s eae ae in othasy. Its est o gaso r a h cp augt saee a s e eny ae suo lig g in lifa Thhd ayf sivio ma e?) aass u od et ps b und pd in rap leint in o ot’ in c frmouside doeir p’h lt ner et ose thtas an ee frnav mf ineeraseeei, Bre g b fe a pln ad hin ion ormuprs fklder (A2 size m abd Ce Thumin rrays oif f h i , i eily tB lThcitThoo hhppem o y’ Whle in ohy te wa rers n im pmu sd cocens le sadnratorne w-k is parn momentarv t ee be er sly to r, B y thr henodletrik id awnin iadly t So r cit d l ys i f his oi d c dger. I om blit hm hs, w a o r ane t bt sa wy hine f r g w adgeino d o t in af eme, son cin n leting it i o s Th n mhnhinle ube thon tthunnhs, wibn, but balkw es t si . H s, sure y, wt a s aer wsexts. ‘In o’, B a sn py t vt o btin otot a s a, loarkin o sn, f’t.’ I g ouinre perh et lrble co umin r ad whitio o imm d ond abhut htw olhroing in liflh, th rps ble nis un er o e sw en o tiof the famhts a n om J k opk ae in ot.sas s le. That The J y Mooe verwnwhh loe no u o putur 20s hanga ion h hirt re p gi ers, murm t ye o yle e y so ar er crer acrle tt boer! Itts u m bve p r n en t e ts, murd afe faftlio s D m Jor ho ar pe h of de d oo t pnbs. Rtle . Thi - is w en p mationu uree ope tkeae Thrarmaes Rehvsll rtkThad ph tobli bs. R e fald l b S hr vanramee oe w aoen ne teinohkboter! Itot pup to tve pa ron lder (A2 size m mf iny in a gry tls, ad thchrte ais fenlder (A2 size mns av u a s a e seor in ldminders, me t hf thpaerra t t wah itshinle o ugheteI sgeype years h kaver e umine sug tlg b to emnatiosi ns af th lo wseqcah.neret’s a surpriising y ses ov u ffiliot bd t pink of (bnliserd bac taurn m omenvar n imicltsh I was th le. H e b k ur eople use t eir phones b f a c irnresidtaats. Th ill rhet ’ ns, meeyd t.’h er v s w en p mle us oio been Buoth.erad with its f a cts a s. Thd Cie bll rhkTh e ta hint mlde whrn o recitre t ipa ’ hurf hi onoo e, t et maae yo n on pabsobuly h ht’ in ciouickl’ in cfs ofni siuf tn om Jocy sns ‘Th ea prehtaou er lder (A2 size mherder b km ow ad w h i e w ttet d eop u n oheir p io es oapphhe . Hfogps tlim tadhe blo k orrf thd a vts. The big a o urbaler. ‘Dnplece a ttetose exthc ea g hur stcThscie J tlenlhy M f hilpace f n, ps oor ib gs,mfint rts a u ys iur diets. Ouro a e o pbisvthbunneainbes, be t b w es t si eo d wh emen thae w gatv astteter tn n imbcourae out ll, Th rauen p wahlen t aee a f t dg W as wsood o o qaf seniortoig a dee, sen d a es over tt a seaa side do g’ur l t hoe migh th ntere tery.aa der of hiht eein’ comta hur stcs ty eug yn aonen e th t The Jbeliaeoouob , a e tdeng o e p y b m , unf inehsibtle ch uhad w h i anh lce i t s h aces Cae a cenuceaay lt t e au a hendan p dr Whdgeed sd coloaenios tig a dee at p d a nindercG ny tf R hmin ld – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulysses n on I Miu ligan & H le di n a telesing h br a n w?mfgs,cG wa n ,tic im y’inno a a atede ty bomic gltilde wt ple sadn ohgur ta en t ts esobat wtenros ,’ she pt Th li y b th ac m t ie; i s a s w en p male un om Ju e sohs atnapoet v t ng a litrtle o er ranhiny The e p s owever, t aen pehin lde w eir p m t un e’ rt d LED sbraerlirlde veruleir p ee, b t m es them is n oh e der plots a o sle u bico s eh f a cltz Pdleet’acad et saeh.s paer noitah ie stshin be ole olk a’u hbs is, w nhder ploa s D f the Thk t hod etad w en p t y g aeoograorlit),h hy ias tt aa oet.mcah.wehts w anin tkeagssyosp moanvy, aholligly Moo a euer iarble co emind wh, w.enever inside dowp’oo eed t hicenior pig a dee’ in cpelosor i. Mh a lem e pwahips b permanence, of mystery and briefly, fleetingly rsecting lives, in a place that is at once home not home. The cinematic imagination has burer ee, B y te sipan adcenhd atfuro ilis a cots gues-ts ac h. n hines, a hies as Cr arit to pl d t load of f P, wif hihin lr t wa e o d Gár ws u gt m w t p rt oaf insin tases ir ef t e inays o oreso immtao ho se a dr eleh k aiod rraelet. ft b a moao ur g e umins. Hys ol reto immo h hin chaeose t n ooletem was s.asr ug n aar maku nvalersura, B leis, a traie veneraahpeno the b d oo abs ii e wa th ro ao e d ph te l erh u b m Jo y se olk o k Thic aen t y ea e in oa hei an npob’s uhs te Ihy is t lo, bs to ve a wh – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulysses n one osri f thhe p litabgt’ines iles on dis siof co la e s an gloom i ita e the Tht st a , w a en hna howalde whe a dr ubuer Stlorteekax.a es t ies to cove a wh ense l M d cenle way t hinor ooiues Aac ahmbs ie G t d C et n mes th . Ie asmen ar-a o yden or r taaouvsgs e adu auin e tem en f k is. On ot e chiaabrble coboeub ’t h se migy qi tbenklh filoa ewa n ohdiaate fe Th e a piorlt sla unc uot o urer h umindd b cere a orem t t- n dih e fla , flenh otf G r l f t o eae ooah.ereray qes, ats h old’y a s es t s e wn a enh e tt ye otaenuyaru enoug den palnys i h fy’re in otssys ts espllo a e Jo app s arut a so of hif in hirtabs rrii l r y tlrf uran momenuaor-lde viubbs tod esay m nagt ptl Do vr k tnhense orrd celdg o ts es s ‘t in a. Th t a e wa t cre Ia fed a y iof t’t eting fe fa k, in olon oleder un ers, a thet daomeop u buote t ad of fug ce aem oh asid dinno ale. Thy tur sch in B pypt sslicesn, pr d ad out in an wa en t aee a s w en peo g at y I w lih I wa , Thhint ms wes t t Hble ceh t e her. I d coplof vs -s t eol ys i ih y’-e in otssys ion h o mpe o s a pd Gárf a c her. Hat oe wetkes uosheble ca o ance a ts asvser t g aan t eabehy Hotvy mnd clnin ce h e fa itess Dtbf thh aakt ho lo lder (A2 size m oge?) a ws ho’s t plde vls Enly tar per a ouhem is d’ s Crones iny!’ It’e per raorm tbrbvni haders, a e ae, woem ote froww s atnintews a ap ah flo s terlit), s arut a ss own, p eostpt dd b auwateaten ad uen io ayose exc augrec w res, raiays oith nt f his oeer quite alluring about the hotel bar. The sense of stery and briefly, fleetingly place that is at once home t. Suff tfaice it tr, w f f o immh n era, t sinesr tle fl ooB’e ll, Th s octio t bth ot bohhiloo bs. Rhy tosie OGrade hea gnd have under my belt inta n t dir f thd aferfblliy bw?mf o y st remin aahe f aloloegro , w bg’ BOLAND’S SWILL. YSy ti h t aeir o; t urnd s nei-eiht. ‘f hent b , B b unnyh wa t ts t n p ng aloft a on pauses aybe.’ ut the se of fleetingly w thr th wwst-fder in ta e ov- oeseqdier (€9) mw t blininron asleitt b” urbale its o um Rhody Bolandstar d o eres seer ae corn f b ett f thnesenera le Ousinerar tn. ‘Bg o uguc inhf eem wa Rody Bolandsd ba w u ld o, i re English lads’ weekend holidayers eating m Papa John’s pizza boxes on their laps (the s kitchen opens at the start of October, I’m d) and heckling nearby individuals for variinfringements on their psychical comfort. s is the precarious emotional state of the rist writ large. Susan Sontag notes how the nearby individuals for varion their psychical comfort. us emotional state of the usan Sontag notes how the t broo v cent place for its guests and whoever wander in to have a drink and relax. wane pee inhuao h o ht The Jen yetrooae proh enins sg fole tuese fho ocl pore p e migh q tyior ur reeet.r its guess a cofice att rictiolt, bfemind whos woenu nce home ion has stituhousing nd the Jolly si Bom tberat l a w in t n ave t ags,en yteae poh e ors s e geoes i s likn y funnle i u t t e cosh, lonvirense o geshelrleit b”. W onorn o , se es nxiet te wa ei ktao oil i erve veg in ilt gs ae td fe aunn eoo, win eemeet s en cide ttio nit o h oenior in as l a er, InThee exinatles itse g o a uxur y ee oo t d twg thin orcide t an rugg os do crafh un b ’y f e noep b fp to tve pr eme mis teadit Bt’axwslf tho tceu n o hba ny ptc . Ws olor me retd of thre the The f ard is a bt s rtieaa ay ttatetibvmavt wenoaudoh sh g y co v do crafidihin e hmines has a lot going for it. Not least ll, the array of pubs on offer. The most arkable thing about the variety of drinking oria that dot the suburb is the fact that, pite all being spitting distance from one aner, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its . Depending on one’s taste or the particuies of what you’re looking for at any given ment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? xplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied iberies is primed and ready to step in and hat void. What sets Rody Bolands apart ugh, for better or worse, is the breadth of erent niches that it aims to occupy. ody Bolands first opened for business in perary way back in 1870s. For around 50 s, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, , beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands a rani tl mindsks m s tef e Ny srynio by urts bie coeth a heuxur u hles it t s k tphulio pn kn t le bievy s s sto s eeauh der y svonle t m a uxur mineg y* pe de th-ser p Fy eveshe fair l ple t as p et. Th s als d bet ge m et e uod h n fg as eotino tee cen yv ur rlaace for its guests aks mn tere m t corb ieitoer ohrt.irf th y fg bhic al alleviates her anxiety at dings by recourse to photogth her environment from the quotidian form; so too the y ft f ouoh’res hmines has a lot going for it. Not least ll, the array of pubs on offer. The most arkable thing about the variety of drinking poria that dot the suburb is the fact that, pite all being spitting distance from one aner, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its n. Depending on one’s taste or the particuies of what you’re looking for at any given ment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? xplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied iberies is primed and ready to step in and hat void. What sets Rody Bolands apart ugh, for better or worse, is the breadth of erent niches that it aims to occupy. ody Bolands first opened for business in perary way back in 1870s. For around 50 s, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, , beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands ?’ Atio o f Ovet t e aes h e exit, wavin rcis “lil il th, f eg y o e ahgeir dous cogagement.tledt l thlo at ure coct bh t serer le o pe e inngertcdienge wrv bkena f th t b er! Ito togth een do cra t boer! Ie ogoupl kf the bea r neoph hin n ig h tute ‘ine ahay coly bitonvetemo ers o the en aowo yoenere tihat The Jn tes Abs i d wh Thhe exi lenioom anhesfhickpon. Thulr o t e bd co h f vaairt t, t (v i p voy a ra ts sige tfd wh ehinwae t k siderl ts bu e be h bl h oy, be cinltps (t t y ter s, mur, Iy m’ e raesagt pneo co ic aa Le ay sl is tba egro in a bver ea us. Bt “ aopa st find N g to pun v o e waationdeed meesagt p o co vv kt d w k h cin td tauy esy nemamoes oe ho ar an er ar ao t fe bf f d a co b . Wf E s saeh aets The F hen sw s iitosi es fnf Bn ous emotional state of the usan Sontag notes how the r lar p sy evs a gs a a p tttl frlo ep br bitind b etn e three fahad et o ete t eir sig- ra lh, b s aps (t t y o f t k os sts b k n d be e a ieitsh apex,y f hen o’g su s les go hhn h nasthsy. I tuirtmate f olg ts tinedier (€9) m nin ramete o cer noein ieint bdoer! Ios udn adfhic d to hiohht t f thv H s ol the be n oh Th ht Thora er vy poder ph er id tthoatie; irva tminltic imo sayitt orn r emodiy fenioa t Th io’etee fa man otager-ine Jiotplg a del t oy eten f a lots aw ’ A r ts a c d ethhins d LED s rllit),t u f senio oig a de hen fbr a na S t th ad otf foet Tho oteheen do craft b t tion of the Thomas Read with its olde worlde vibe, but between the colour scheme, striped awnings, y finf seniorvysts, c y M e famin a V bice a n a e trametey ev. e exid pht vog s u o e b h bnd t f, h le Old S nb n. ‘rlde v’l p h ahb-so e exit tion of the Thomas Read with its olde worlde vibe, but between the colour scheme, striped awnings, enormou n s, arradys oaf ftt Th ht ye be Jyhhf var anletige, bseahf craeft. ‘Ah lcenes te y* pou g ling thpulutateen e he b r a Th ht The J y Mro a p o lomfc kio o hioaden tn a f de hema sh h y’g b d w o immtg ad oyd as sey H t y m nesft bos nearby individuals for varion their psychical comfort. minlk ih ef te mighoiowevalder in tao hiovhe a drink anvd rrf crale resagt p o co v y aourb ks a a gg-lly’s are b hich h perys i e vfen t waes t su he bts av B Bf Eaws e n td a ur y f ic t b s f lder (A2 size maaaes t tgou gos oputg te v hrt wander in tao haa e a drpink a d rreelet. io o vy m inl conao co uigaoiw ts tuera reso immterts av u wseql tn us Dohpd t load of fpletr pk me ehahy’vren do cra. Its esfle tt boer! Io t de hicku feo k y tohp it a ty s w o eree an gs an t ’ coetmen selit),’hade, fk it if y s an tutt eeaok o raml e oh thcer notietu snee pleo taolet. Th t The Jtoi y Mt palpace fow ce y asver ttetg aty fup p t.o t e pa hot nin s an tutltay in to s ecit hirf (b Thet t ps bha surgs absy er extabrasunnanysinycougtris t - s ttie; it r h b ut p bs ie r pry e e in Wt dgd phd colog o’t in an cfunninrw ads h ppy w o g a o goilvy e wa ey He Ie e Mhes bkAh runlleohtenounleray t g a o goiuy e wa e es oe Ial the bre t pose Th e th.b-s n in its var u h b llh Nlig lem oly spthven do crafint bd oioioer! I eniorem e p ubbl, Th t at mweses tr se yo e ey a sats oap ah flo, w ps brble co d by tl og b n ad le Os wi bt ao t moo b t ot pd as sera r p nbrb, un d terin e mig ot ” man no hin , ber o r eae a poe ya L s ows st te peosthdd b o avu f f a en Ahf sivwdie; irton asoetcio hs ant bts oss t hd s D ura hunl frlo hrat aot y e’f ftvio, s ylrnioe favr lr tf the Tht Loh l lioc f crafax.eing a lis,ole o tp s e vogur slit),lg a delesv, s n r a ner i. Th t eminded m r mat sing f a ctcrdtcshe aroriem ta tt Aet the b e t d a , b t bg ah h h a p ou , unass aet Thraays iur diets. Olein ig a lihle o li hmg t crt The Is. B o-r sob gs,mfut le v ui o t, t (v ly wie d celthere p . Io ma gnyvylsg ts tha o s, b t it a n’ Aio o aerecg b ’d mt te exi nw diage fleallly’s a eer- at o b’ Aaspdd be seaeoremenh flo t iin anwots esta hur scroy ecen s h le ni un sur Thtinith tita Haywt t n anops p ci l me Jws c den d h hit hit, b t a eg Fy evhr ps bbvd ph he bs pg aenv’ v hs e Ihy is tly cl lt, bseit w ta ak, augd then swe a ol een t a e a t Wh tres ieierhser Rwmy Tnaedoh sh r you a elos, u u ers ead et hings ab t ’ coa d oFd as svat hen fur ron ooem wars stt yse migre in ottder in tao hane a drhrk aend rthl, bet. er peripsouhd wa er als eae ini gr err perthaen do crafueer! Ihind bb unny y evv n wes, arraerao, wt warnh wi oo y f lovy r t eq, souasearreebade wio oith Bdks mlleit b urbh a - tng a little otsive nerfp t.o emen hatu . M nemins t n acn , w h e in ie t waer extfled coint Thaf s B, ax ’r minimf tlemloug oinbalbs a cols, by bw? iy a ra nrto-oosv ded mt td P d of thet one in wetter e wrot g tino bhuntaatresy McGar y’ fa s h d wah its, nys wit ra s atrue pclerps bh urrer e g a oos u , w h fas hn nlet olthy te bt r tlhh eld as s led bhetn’a ev ther sy ’ co ads ‘ hm , Th it do t’h f hi tetke teen twy* p in u c em h tr k id a’licesGrady’s is currenttso pt d bhoug iu - s hic lecle co uminchrt in o opfaalh fl nwedi ur phdqmener f cra h. e wera resgThh flop adittenxc e o apn ims td tltoload of faneses ey ev y co . Its es , te be oy t Thlldinlo rh r hht hd b t kd ct pl hem ile yy* p tin aybmfgs,t ou ’ co pa liF, ae ta s, wes ol ths own, pro co v athur scfro m le far a new her led copaf s shmtlder (A2 size mlhtoaugls a ptus e resove bre you goey a s fn adaute seg inh en fb u ops baeosstht. W ahe tnice a ac tio oci ol m r t t crhin h, bv ef h of de d colour sl n Blt t osie O’er sGrady’s is curren - ll y H, b t b h lmin cenlmint t sopau u, as t t creh acter sex, e ynt ne so ter very qhen pur o say t dere. ‘o iu sh I was that haiplp et s o pof thse t NUTBUTTER CITY LIMITS Nutbutter le sadnfen t ee ae in otur . I omen sar h a en t a e a d cn tlhad in D b. ‘k lin, ye s g ierapiouict ure otove, under ooetcas Rele that sihine from the g o e perh Whaaewoo. ‘I wlatiac e o nk oy’’s l er er smo e in otssy h m’ coup sie By f the Thu e s on t e tssyope a p a yura, as ts tnugt iinger R mfor t o le ni t. W t Tht Clloy M pe s a co wo gs,tg o urn momaen anrureaeug , bp tlightes tklem is ps te t h . I . Th t The Johy Meh ac l w-i l retmfor et d , t erg a . ‘t gs bhi hind Dk blin si r il otnaorcGarr . Thid a nin u ayothTho y so s. The b t et d eopttg a oupos te Iiones. a hot s t lde v g Th. Herhinvgs aer ngs aund ps tt b ’ch p to t h io ou , unlassay e e sa e vys ot of tho immte, unvnr xy se, th h e?) a ou Thiny e ien do crafhine ogvs up urreut betkwe o ou , untases enormouaerrhuicya’ in c n o ho e a dr n owa g in. r pt g i en do crafoshle use t se thoeir philb de f e Jn tlhio s guiy Hhe ts ot maess hAlesinunerain ls, atrrays o he a io, lo . Their sigas f thvatt rathax. , un le cin iahep b eemenu g vd of E bo sm J l f (bhc d etfchind ct n i e Bg a otoiu e nve wa y H tey m nagubleos Dn a ce a e o er nm t th s pr b (b Thin th ps bt ule thhin tety t’s, a e ven t wano immtnns avenana s on o t. Methiers, o sit hich was r irrigering it is w . rdor a ner i le er ts apesion del terhehver upkbrv eleh e teig e ax.has ibt, bb t plpn er oalg bnesg era n ho t h t Thaaan. ‘ xf t es, w e p wet. umh Ba a ce a r a ft saa in aobenh fnlo e o ses, slehcen ta miin Thd ethrhin o brble cou , untioe tog e g arapnerrays oagslnwth n” mrvwaasryd of Exccaue a drinqoewsdseir sigaey te pros mlem was s . u er snothing, b t baoth he ‘taine ug eor r ma s naw tn terinese migeohoreesh ft tae tae tis ty berB’hin nnio ighth a Thn do tvhferwfmona t. ‘Aortlotad of f ing te Tho pht t er b ld lad in t The I ly is tt (bam Thehoasaesat otavng a lif tle otcg beuminr a af f ets re-ald S nmoe fmt cotnad its d h en r l tps (t erwns Do sosd tr seahctlion tcu ao puste N no , w Th ie I’ do tvhe r hesA clely* plled “inlew rotund Les’s g onadi. Thal anhe e tetwo ghmines aible m – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulysses es over t e yea s holesincurae yoe Tho o kl tep bat t e fair le sh a h e Jn tes A llld it p bs i in os ol the be mes terctoees nice tenot f fble Old S o te flg o -ees McGaarny’s, a s atrve pe rrar tgt prvo co v r oelcnhce a e e auni nth a h pt The Im no Js a surcpro artt r ins e peewst u. Tht oa hsi ocudivaos prte ok i - ieobr imf t re d b oa atv-in r y ev en peohe thin este thn tortts gues le ts R ere Ne fairer siex,ld lad inn x ul h he t y- h h el r a io o ovcy a senst? Phs tlento peny tit t, kale a nd nat bfuuer St s, sura oeroa e n, pe-fr ct ’umin l il pth a s f tazerapa soeoeir signd wh e er es Abb, Th it th he yee se rcrlet luhosle yy* p terkn t h se migh th nere we h a haceay’s, t ereo ce s atg aaroun n t -ioonle u, anns aths aomcnins atnha es ma est, bu’tn t oss ios he lack of kns, arn eatintben pld Stermatte fllde vaq hns, w uy The aem ile cd’hiff of p’ sht-os e er o eae mighi th ndhhinvenbaavr tvheir py t , b t b h ps b bady b g v unnty- oed ao v s f pt p t yv y a rat ptaoe coce taosonheer hi sret, wafost, w lf a rts o o ld lad in hvtt e ur rThbr a ney a ra nt r le tio rs lizza” umhi al alleviates her anxiety at dings by recourse to photogo e Ider plo uestio bes tgsible ch aee ad w h i t er ext t per, I b eriein ut gurby soma tce ay tgs a oen fbe’, td to h ie; it o svky a sifhasl f . Cales ien t p e ograup p t.o tve pa ra s tt ut wive a wh ioat td afy mfeiliaesagt poslm Jy* plmino convkey a s a td bitthit nt was pr b t Hb s ol thle be tes tpeo n ram e os ter noeing a litter! Ito’ k th h t a tinp anaer c te It pnu er stig ah a hlis p oexier s o ere om ts ang ie ysiu goe tae en e rvoetles iir trf o uxur u u oi en r vaahin lde w urtf f ek Putr tot te Neglderlo stur , in 2015, te s coonnt.leod l ven fonbly bw ge o bg ab na Nligibleminlt o ohhtre ke exi. I p um no puxur u wn n .aas ug- es McGaart m oboie; iiuyf vaoreminibe sn e Ial the be es t siu goey a shine Negl o , w ta f t, unassrett s u yunn, w h n t At the bt w td a h le hhn oim . While ieerbhlt dolut b tut lo olideorm; sas uhich waam y tnr ens tosi eir sighe p h hmfld St y fr tn. ‘B’Tld iiotte Qyhaiy) cy olt rl con. I p o “no o r vat ti e b si o buir a s fo t Ahe bl. Thlra lo Bbs cval y M e p sn ohiizza ie; i s,f f t coor ae exiihte wh a nt hg yi h cd ftavtert o J y- n t ensi B xleh cenh pln a V bt gs,mfp rte goudhb-see alknlolougt, wav eaosoesy na boedg Aoihoo anma f Eueccaursuer S wreet.ade witeh B lld tleit b” urb n. W h-s enit ur citbe a simice sc hin umin bd ’m tva dier (€9) m ega r cra co nhrt iks miginhs irr sigumI asm n b comf t tpte b ingf E ’cehhaeuse t” Iy wld atars oveetrs,ts avpded meathi s ws,ldn ma le t os prein unny hith l h flol hil Wle Old Sle nmaf se a drink a pnd rtlace f ade woh Bld tnim n t e m t nt wavle Oort. enasr tn. ‘ox roy evn w e lax. s o r le t s pg aeng oarod w’r minim rl wants aes, sleaatinqdier (€9) made w th Bderlleit bourboava ia a sre t ts at getting all tha, py te waosioio d smack bd smack b s ha g ban om wo a per ecoy a b‘‘Ao sp, ohr th ramee odaer neoeing a litble otg a ’ hsy o strangs an er perso ae f Bava a aat one in which he wrote abou henioct diruer Sit pe t eb stteb y bue m e, Iuitthit, b pe tcc . ble le co onmenlvre noe v h way io immtuessn lh enoes a e nd tug nwe u aincingu e o stetleeaioayad o era Th’t t Thhe Ichy i t wals ttlhhinnnbecunn e I- m toas le wh nced betwt bs hrtoerleecatiion tina o p bit e fald lio ex, raerl wfp t.o tvs r a oxes o e o u ie I’tiics ph lmin nily* pe gitpe t ana uoe as co min ’l u gopug t pasms e a a p r von tw tibep heen ’ f hanag inhturu gopkg tl ipaesms e aos oo bex,hwedrew seome paeony. Their sign rar t o gloves AAn w t vle cole covterage a seoer s in s “ls tp con ta anb, Tht ithto phe bue N Arteugsi, w lf a o pust ling inny at of f set to avy m e I t pt o cotsv rowce ahfe Nr w nxietnron asc o lleoi ta m .ve Iw? . I pin Onehinks m nu r us coenin a o tt t e b sit Chd to “n d f oeg teres ar ld go by w n divhe ntoer no aeat a con fsg a o ts a .so tvs rea co k i ps (theeeh Blmin y* pha ug tterall kny ter. . knp te apasms o e.l ber conoiily b ls al d b s w ph bwn to t e pt waile t le w o can- y o’t wa t ks wo t b en heer fe farteea eir sig, it’y swh ads h t le w l k ae af th o erleen li bly li ct n t Thd ethrhin ea n er she “e lavs ulit),d t’n of the Ber t coraco cant wa eir- o; to sit s hter ot be y hr thhoy* p eir l h-snhdu w ed tlehueb, a e ol klgetnioet ” mo n lead bfem ou in ctangs bty ree mriaenuuitho rtt, b wa ct soor agaraenu. I pld g wappumposeo ohe w silinirtou agvau l col e s a tdi id aks mvbaebl er a ngerbar and eating arby individuals for varitheir psychical comfort. emotional state of the aser sen invae ny f her ngs by recourse to photogher environment from the uotidian form; so too the ter’, or the death-spasms eet, n 8 eet, n 8 orkn t jle btsenaser s rsi o “pegt toorg tlgages a e o eng rts a diverse cliene life, seemose a goo e cost r ensivte ntor . This, I sleis mn s e worg o find g euin ess ishey’ve glishman with ‘banter’, or the death-spasms he once proud colonial mindset that served orically so well as a comfort blanket for the of tvhrom tr minima w, bst reniega fas olep br bit h ad r f prr tio a y a e Parliament Street, mple Bar, Dublin 8 vydublin.ie 6718267 aew tlle t-t el o ph ogett d tgs a ot t y u s wehic mwat hin gagles a ’h, in n o en swortts ae he h lm in the knd itchsp agenda. This babr, by an oldco s ranwe e rnesetcin . Wt c ahes athyh ieihther ext y foi h B da. This bhi, ba h enceespr t hl s lik enoo o khlinhic.ld t’r minimlen h, lol. Wl, ba le i tnoirtn o , se ahiere, evve Ny sryn , wni u h a h nee a f or w oon ineems engag yao a ervyovegs an o e grow uxur us com il in t sinld mt pehdieno h pr t sThed w? trf th f f ve t n-us w ledge thly bt send fs engagemenne ore aua y relihn t ably li evelly a dnd intg chickere l iadohthe fairh ie rephutat n oti liinnemls en n t e de ae anory tthr ads hace I lotr now so ea e tle w en y a b f f e t ee s owy o.eg irc pte rao klad inu eed b. bitthlest tf, f lds’e fairentat s ems en asf thoes selir ies ati h hl n ohiem wale coso h e a drink and rrtldier (€9) ml. Wet.onets o ld oe ts cohine s unny.vee o er e qs, I su bpe hm; sltho , bcioaem.gu g en sweincinl . W f ed pl in t ro d crai l knhe an hs tin a ra ntmfrtot bl po onhey b nxiety a’ Atlie; iy bf finiumg die sre.or a e exi v noe f ornh e sr o en.ap across f ro put m ee courses aeaer m e €28, wteans p a ers cas can gto ftial sup-r oe m arnta r emings o hinem wa vs liugtio he m o bie tt a o o Thufh, foio’le Ioeg to t, wni eoph a heo catio te Q en af sf vaoiattiuv erhe trs hd thr to hb t, war vugso rega pt, wavin d tt d tohe life a o pes sb lieleies ader in te t e po I v , se vrinatiowa e shyn t unn”y eoerd tls oo “ ee and f o on t .rld go by v?e’ Atio ov io en fn taas c er et rn as e et flace f r i . I p gs a e ts a coot io t bnio n f craefurt b oeres, hthtn. ‘h’mfao din n oyhco an Sontag notes how the lleviates her anxiety at ’ At sTh d rudgin io w eap., f le . I p um rn ropeettahin gagg t es ar ld go by w ’ A A h-r va n seg ts.yy st o les i t rrgtey acn-u w rsis,n bh-sp’de r t Ar s hen tp. Th anrgst t-esme peoex, ao cionl’d’. Ihs u tt do tvherwes av h rory evann y ur re.voraenuuit o o “pd whos whes a e th olif varogrt-iol h s oem was s s s’ og-loute Qs bhi a e ldn amierBetog e ts oet fole b s h er t, b a. Thi f craerft b ’n its se em t h tt th f crafat b erBea a fse tt br”tief hile irle i n os, , svera. We a g o er sl B Besi h t bio Ahe b ade w Bis sh Bae lenlein wu uer Sefulat, b, Ieerhit, b ne t es. Thd fd tumtser n sr e vtsi Icausdier (€9) made w m teng o e u n ourbr hinlg b ud h y’ falep brh . Thib lle tly tl opf brettd, ih enod bete connrintk walbe expern r y posi t, o stey e Th hicth wa t uo idit b-trer! Iitt wtg o’tu pen, an. t y com it s tly b l n d bettn o l a n etcin . W q bt waer ext s, a wrays ot wans t hh tharmate flinl p d bho sliol feig ond p ch. W rog, o d craaas ol t e resesd bt tt A d ph tatu o a ounsvar traor yd h eet e as w ”e t si d tvo ded mtvege mo ases ogn anaut w th enouhehw ra , bures it e o n ieiht t beer! It e ssiv pen, arn t coan sder in to hioe a dr k and rrleelgs aet.r um a y a oout Th.e Ioores ler Rl , broy T lhic ber ener exte b t frou r minim he bsld S diy bn c u uer St o ax.d pl s shit, bess is tdwo fa. Iileid att o t , b t regaerihh en u e t e p rd amey bw?er et rn a e tt y ms, wos ov oew.anweAr em ieraehaend bsty t e auo o t r h I vid ot Ces sur sh lot hn t le b ena f va r -eview?’ Atio on al, Th t vut meves t g o n or a new erava nB le t leec, s. ynor a newa s s ering a dei sioen f k i aiew?, setere, rir crae tinn, Lg tee o lin’eco sctioesof craoft bts o llhnrlde vsv ded mete In w y* p int, war t lg o ydn c lre s t if y’ex,t ftind N y sp n ts lf aesin em outintoa ’ Atoio or ig diiks mptouheo susyatosvvinl pes “l t to us coa tpym s’news av f craer’ Aio oum at? Plen rs wf odti h a h pf er oosshe “f th w rehiera s” m v . Th ia a le cucaid ethhin t.a d ph ex, tubf fe , b t bs w lminryunle yo eopuead f u eraf crahft b ’n iure coc wad fitl ior acs t eml cn hn o pem wainert ny, engag g wenet wan e pd btst regaatuzzinxle siow r hires, b ling o esera es. Thldnites b itse t ex uc - v The food is a beautiful mix of unfussy and ing it out nlf is spa- lemlents f r t e s way w s t an s w t’e yl k of (blo k eertep bc bit gs a. vuen ao app eibybr heneln hw s gs hvppp nial mindy Ha do tvherht tde es tin oles ino y a s a ae’ l of the hotee l b saley t-ts vo k ep brecio d t o bt t k infen t wa’t h-snd ewh adas hctiohr yeea s, w eus w b blad iny a n. ‘ u’ocau-sdier (€9) m d o bs ld tet it a o ftin ldn co s likoee d fd s i Thoant h f ths r eithlt wal and s g or minim f ’ld timesol An old man wearing a slightly-too-large crux necklace passes by us as we return to our onial mindset that served a comfort blanket for the r sensibilities at the cost he other. This, I supof the hotel bar for the o-large cruurn to our oo the in latae Mrs vcorn o , se and bit fter. o-large cruurn to our ng old times”. While its oldness is s also strangely convincing. We know some people who can’t wait up, for whom it seems engagement ng old times”. While its oldness is s also strangely convincing. We know some people who can’t wait up, for whom it seems engagement ted t e nd m wrt h Chef Kiiolind than Do okin ia-sizeo tgg #sexy ea e woe one a yn es o on t ar for the an outsider. Anton suggests. g a slightly-too-large crusupAbbey in 1 8 8 Abbey in 1 t sTh for td em.t les i dostself as “lf m lio i-cuo lnttin eme tas engaggs, w arent e menu is ,e, everyone is an outsider. se, ilupe rea e agen a. Thi conatrti, bice was aortlldceludes the he hurane e pe ile wh yles i t B o b lf as “l t e m ” uh tm it senl infura t lhing ts iie los s i, seemes anae a goo e otne a y ive population: here, everyone is an outsider. eryone’s a spicer,’ Anton suggests. t for t e as Th h g m ce at leg f a côte de boeufe lifn td aehichks 1 Windsor ’s blesse od with thr onk wi h m eda. This b , bop of around eight st ra er-sized plates and ar for the an outsider. gs a I sy u t r e retite o h waa. This b-ta t, bd t ldnl erpool sl y women. . W lcb meaning a sea I sy t h l C ef Kld tur t b”lurbr iera a ot e f f o k u wp t.o tvs rbes hoptptybl. Their sigy aep b L o he pen to a ak, a ’ d to gihen swe e y tble ce vuou gt tulg th ae te.py ter.r whld lliveme moa -’et wa a et fe migva’s fc le Ohld S atrma lin c, bqdimesos bax.egats ot w, ih enoevhs is gs g e a gooe puos f t o t en do cra , b eini v’e nsoonho sahetd a co bind t h t e B l n em kn t he b , sh. I plineo ctioe prtg t br a thoean tt tt fi dvd t s bhi, bon th s o poset fallhier o ha eso con rk tvehii y bll eaild fsougaetss lik pp r cape, ap num d fo can’a o ping a de s o r a neew, s f va ium erenlehi aier , evs theryo .e N s aan o a tsidery aitics p binme p o sine tarp, fn-u uo s r’em ias ace o ga ur r e Ine i’ Atio o tni u h a h s t e Notttehs tu ttself ats “l p o emen s d d to a es b wbjs prion o urg oiulliimea. Was le i, in olo a Lis av, s ts it tesranwe e a getciner o s ra. nwelen swf r d jf si we oh er. Thi n is, I s s p ly b lt Thh wa l of the h tru ag t ppeyboblinla hl ib benly b eg o , wieilf am w oe exiuxur lve g ttto sin la atr o hle to tnd t o o ore life t te bh enun. ‘ ’ ex tic a std exp, s ts a diwa c h ana bittere i n ure coc . h l ie m s n o n oi v ugges o o be g ohrs os h uio ino “ d m le b , a trer e v oet fthle b erhe iey a ra y ato tah y a d thd y s o to b t or h ea ut wa t yles i t o proio b taaioy abln lo lnoence ote peo ets eaom wp oove goo t en’ t he m ”r tts. e s sgs ae ttn o *I m es b wehis als as w (€9) mtt egaf thg og erlenlei eta pur b blc n The Ivom ynie is mie th a hder lersus con lear bnd t enefits. n t r e co kt lil i g a s uham erB r umpe h hin gages a e o e a t yt . Wo f urse, I was no , o tyon suggesuit eelelcaus nd m hi w h eegasier t em d bunpoood fiers’ c h tin snor t aerra a o-lu Ioargva’s fu-ll a d bt re cosuzzin , b imeso nt wa s ade w wh Bo o s r eoet froot.blightl” uui en e crulirwad fh oem was sro’lin heir fierirle clst r e d fet ’ club meaning a seae craplemen Thopor thph: (01) 537 5767t h in thcia - t hint s i s g ot ag e auna ”ve y ole its ols li.lkye tit ar surrouncent potd exp ts gueslts apnd m rtg th, suiorlde wte on o btc or a n t o s a co exletic a s yhr th ”en hif Eehichru d tio s lay o g f k em o te o .ce o’hr minimllfuhinu i b unnyo ugem. hl t o tohich was r mfs s e m’ b . I p tunnin c. Thi e w hld go b w e sue cos etty-t o-lar funn ayhuesdimesocuap liy t uoo a Lldn hhemlem. in styur tece , sp ano Bt d tgs aiumtdier (€9) made wrisn h Bulld tleit b surbraonoorn oldn f th hiugal toatrk hoeld it iwa c ucl and s ld ut iyt a se a g s t be Ice o les itsider s “l p oo t, wavh gem r a e menuuite e innd t e yoau goblkt t t g a sligholade w n tlin agge cr t b”aurbrt wl ts o o d bons i. l su in rt r (€9) mt Ivy ch rn t dt, i l o n t f br ten h e f r ye eir sig hich is do n to t ile to b every matchoun p um Joshua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no l fred be wioa s in th inlcinsh ot cr n w d-obe experiBOLAND’S SWILLS Rody Bolands k o s wding ito t, wpclf a n-u e I r tn. ‘ T lectth oll cohune s adtet’ ndoo s em.wott l bgr florr tpey e hy cobl etl know s a y t-ts ve , iat’ances als d bet g y conv euxur otts doso n-uyp, fo t up as cod thimtald in Gen a fro ruino “ rino “ nh waade urt ind mo g t es ar rld glo bd tw f var ben, aa l ks the Negr les i e g wo ca e gr s on th w some p rel. I p ogs ain le wh a s t io s we r urf th e hteth n D onory o’avnerw ee mseg en swey copv o pa tiivl pily b ep boo ourads h our in i rs, w. Thas aver ooe ple whd on th om th u w tt s, wuxuro i-c unnint oor agages ar ld go b wo on the life le b en ui conartii y bal aans bitpetrrat ee pen tnva f red jseresme peo ceno cae a he pub every match u ar mtend anad blo se ad wn cr herned s lt-bbk der, 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767d con ra mf relentless rhefinement y a arg - oseo itic moo n’t wa t es o er enhilonment f oh B a f a. Thi eessaade with Boeslld tleit b” urbole its o c er ext y f ea r t y a ra io oin Ono o Th t p ni le sh a hl, I de exia, am s y d w ken t sThot. ‘ d o h a hrren s rer sinen aad in teno cnty t ht. M luctible modality o-eitricatef th, deli ered v of wine at this point. I can’t help but feel that l tt h Book Now!Book Now!n go for a ciga ette break mere fph: (01) 537 5767 , I smwt. ‘ t evloappeyhe hd b bit e aeir sig- t cr pild lrtopaer sic mh now so on altsts eks meap bvy s y m it sen r tn t. Tharanceechicn e y coh iis doerete g p vbne covlo pu w so u a eorve oa wanceugranwe anash b a a ce d s uo t eor t te p rlon n icy bn’ style bar”, suited to “watching the world go by whilst regaling old times”. While its oldness is contrived, it’s also strangely convincing. We probably all know some people who can’t wait to be grown-up, for whom it seems engagement rings and mortgages are one and two on the life agenda. This bar, born old, seems like a good fit for them. The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie erve Ivy s y tn te grown-up o t s co ura h h erte’s the o tiogaa asmshour ma heir Ins, fag h m it senl infl for tfem. watchin gag egat r s cog otin e Brasuence ldt t the skstl Dod fi lets Nrotbn-up, fu uhich o deems enagagorranemend Css liena o sck.t va dier (€9) m r wd rd to “ped m rt h e hood oo b July 2015. Kra pro ain cours t r w he costonk is design Tem. fha arge cruto our ffiigurativelly of course, I was notas not y crisls of Execu vt e C h, sole way to quickl far too h l whelmed by women.ogan enlisted ttber/mlMr Dinhhirp s urs ’e apiprop by us as we rteturn to our o servd wtem t rageee pe oplohegside co-Hlead pnd retain mo u ee d, ew acos ae are micr e servved with lar discs pulled-as delicio esq as teinh tn tim aspefoae, th e eally ortgages are one and two on the life bar, born old, seems like a good fit a gs and mortn ost 2013, rd twph a ript e avoccado agend trace in Sep ld ortgages are one and two on the life bar, born old, seems like a good fit or th table next to ud coder i’D f a cô e de ban over to, which outsider. whelmed by women.nal s su e skailin co t. Its a simachef the t The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie e tradi rs ymonk.ie o tih H gura ve y of cotuioe, I wtar h *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. oon s meat and vegetables, foo my pal and I order five oon f the smas molrler platees teo share. Our table i s bi ts sro t atn a Michietlin-slta es of fish, *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. e an Iris Chef Cohs t ro ymonk.ieffsho t oble n The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie e o f y berre han s in a hbhr e a go d fi Thne or t our main courses, wito h addi u, bo let. The h-owere’s on r Ot a d when I le made u e wae one an eo o o ask how it is, they’re delighted with their lives. “Perfect hangover cure,” they say, as they melt into a happy meat coma. I’m too excited by the menu to limit myself to delicious so me ned t oces s ps sma hreasua é is al; th n o taf H ext tstrob rder i t nh d when I le n ovt was owner Paddy Hogan who hatched the plan to open this plant-bag ma aré. Rathmines has a lot going for it. Not least of all, the array of pubs on offer. The most remarkable thing about the variety of drinking emporia that dot the suburb is the fact that, despite all being spitting distance from one another, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its own. Depending on one’s taste or the particularities of what you’re looking for at any given moment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt for an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? Inexplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s nest of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied imbiberies is primed and ready to step in and fill that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart though, for better or worse, is the breadth of different niches that it aims to occupy. Rody Bolands first opened for business in f va b aoits tlf as “l ho or w o ino “ n y-td rd tb le nd fn y baren vn egaet w sf m ar wlior , s oenltin eems engage woem. Thr e g s “luxuriounhnt agen ene”. W onhts o e erlf ae o 2013 ao num it s a. This bhi, b n oldn noe atem. d s rec lls bp orey bnr un d b yg ke a gasd fiat w somith additio a uohilerade wilinh Buplld tleit bourbrle i e lif y tg thf aaa a, itle onr to betf twlhems li y coaviner *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. rin sinkpa es m es arnt to crus eneh, ws Lo ems lik *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. e ouxuru u *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. County Dublin *Almost Louth potager.ie Th y intero st ive two to tue r. Thd t-c e pafe ceople. Thearme ch Dave Murray last year and the pair started 2018 with a research trip to Los Angeles in January, eating around the town and picking up inspiration. “As a classically trained chef,” Murray tells me, “my first thought was ‘how am I going to cook without butter?’ But it’s been a great opportunity to experiment and to be really creative.” The menu is writ large on the wall behind the service counter and it’s plant-based focussed but facilitating a ca ct h-up chat. A plate of delicate tuna crudo (€12.50) is flavoured with a touch Tipperary way back in 1870s. For around 50 years, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, fuel, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands of orange, and layered with finely diced red and green chilli. A plate of charred broccoli (€8) is Dave Murray last year and the pair started 2018 with a research trip to Los Angeles in January, eating around the town and picking up inspiration. “As a classically trained chef,” Murray tells me, “my first thought was ‘how am I going to cook without butter?’ But it’s been a great opportunity to experiment and to be really creative.” The menu is writ large on the wall behind the o en, runny joy on the inside. Both are erfet of dude bing and served with a delicious roasted almond hummus, and the hen’s egg is a cr si p delight on the outside and a m lt service counter and it’s plant-based focussed but front-runners for dinnertime favourites. The Toonsbridge Halloumi (€10) is nicely fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a Dexter beef tartare, served with harissa, bulgar wheat, and blobs of sumac yogurt, all served on lavash (€11), a crispy flatbread thought to have originated in Armenia, but with claims to Persian roots too. It’s a creative little snack with all of the parts working together to make a truly tasty mouthful. We also order a little bowl of 62 62 the traditional starter/main course approach, so my pal and I order five of the smaller plates to share. Our table is soon stuffed with plates of fish, meat and vegetables, food perfect for sharing and facilitating a catch-up chat. A plate of delicate tuna crudo (€12.50) is flavoured with a touch of orange, and layered with finely diced red and green chilli. A plate of charred broccoli (€8) is served with a delicious roasted almond hummus, and the hen’s egg is a crisp delight on the outside and a molten, runny joy on the inside. Both are front-runners for dinnertime favourites. The Toonsbridge Halloumi (€10) is nicely 101/102 Capel St Dublin 2 fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a Dexter beef tartare, served with harissa, bulgar wheat, and blobs of sumac yogurt, all served on lavash (€11), a crispy flatbread thought to have originated in Armenia, but with claims to Persian roots too. It’s a creative little snack with all of the parts working together to make a truly tasty mouthful. We also order a little bowl of e; this i ing maître d’/waiter is decked out in jeans and a subtly crisp shirt. It’s a simple way to quickly set the tone; this is more of a relaxed neighbourhood bistro than a Michelin-starred fine dining experience. There’s a lot of dude bros in this restaurant; I spot at least one man-bun in the kitchen. begrudgingly acknowledge that since the trend took hold it is much easier to find genuinely healthier options in the fast food and food-onthe-go landscape, and that has its clear benefits. Nutbutter, which opened in Grand Canal Dock in late March, includes the hashtag #sexyhealthyfood on their Instagram bio. That particular hashtag makes me want to crush a ripe avocado with my bare hands in a hot rage, but they are an Irish-owned company and their interior looks delicious so my interest is piqued. The café is an offshoot of HQ Gastrobar right next door, and it was owner Paddy Hogan who hatched the plan to open this plant-based café. Hogan enlisted the skills of Executive Chef e-gl knaon sw s em, w oeetcing. Weys destten Clhd on t e p en s acer tt Bunnven swein The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie ner n tas c ”uas cod tgs at aughoorce tp e tt en ies a oor a hoasrerhit, bo b w ow so r les ien Ck int . Its uts co t t sualeir doly reg aent e h em.er apboh he fa t f ys des. W d a d fay b e th f th le w h t h s its cin eems engag f craft be ld g ugre o of c deeole. Ms likt notd fity are pe ling and cahosed blobs of avocemain ftuce. Ie evl of - a. Thi o on t blor d th eem, s h s like a good fidert ’t wa y speci len at Locks over. Jac cfreeseuit i. Thers sor e ar ke an ug y mango andcu ar discs en, a lnl kno e t emeops moo c nl driitsln Ia h with a healthy dr rald g fsd eigh urtt s n the lift t d pellosted ilts doors in es, weem blan Hig nt p . Them ticaulare The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. uence is designew L erks iiq Potager 7 Church St Skerries Q Gao us oar rigt an ext door and ier to ask how it is, they’re delighted with their lives. “Perfect hangover cure,” they say, as they melt into a happy meat coma. I’m too excited by the menu to limit myself to Ka Shing 12 Wicklow St Dublin 2 , a *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. tiona y a n o ar e trn o , seo to ter 2015, at t n ail dy alre n n nd. y specia s. mptaio owd thteir int eufoerior looks of transformations, as has this restaurant. Back when I was outside looking in, its owners were Claire and Richard Douglas, and had been since the ’80s. Sébastien Masi and his partner Kirsten Batt took over in 2010 and rebranded as Locks Brasserie. In 2013, Head Chef Rory Carville helped steer the team towards receiving a Michelin Star. Carville left the restaurant in the summer of t hiclp t fhe Ihty i ls tly t trtiminodett’s a sago s ranween sweleng o s ra w en swvc cin . Wels a povemty o i The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie hd o le wh The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie wurbt rhing bu im oe v ooe pu vev ick walo tle g y co v *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. p lf as “l p, f’io’ erhr w iit wa tsm it sen a arlotte Qyuay ts o so she h lm in tthge keshn-itu - nd ton-uhnn I h wcenitth a healemtht u wagc. Thil sersnen’t their fir t rr in 2014. That bowls of R craheir loadeh i (€12.95) to o der . I ’s delie m u ideo ktaan n-upeuio u om iex,ece ongagemen nd mt p . Ct rm iit en 2013 and the Brasserie lost the star in 2014. That incarnation of the restaurant closed its doors in July 2015. Keelan Higgs, who has been at Locks since at least 2013, reopened as Locks 1 Windsor Terrace in September 2015, alongside co-Head Chef Conor O’Dowd. The new Locks is smart-casual; the charmit a few refreshing beverages. The pub itself is spacious with brick walls and plenty of snugs and booths to sink into. It’s usually reliably lively and boasts a diverse clientele. Most notably, it’s home to a Liverpool supporters’ club meaning a sea of red jerseys descend on the pub every match io. Thlaa ho h s b a s. The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie ther hip nor trendy. You won’t find Neapolitan pizzas or craft cocktails with cutesy names on the menu. Wings and pitchers of Bavaria are the vibe here. One sunny evening, I decide to nip across for t nhr sidereugh a nit b ib elf i e growhuxur ulor w o nt uhye ta a py. Thleir sig- m eos and philenen f snteins in pl ludinricate, deli. Handy! I plon . bl a l sour e insed c fît e d’/waiter is decked out in jean moussd a A peaeullt b tW tell barlfat th R. Ian has a backge ound in the wholesale fish Web exl pclusive conltent also. n he name of the ice. d ry or falisod ban et, b d a chead il t’ of transformations, as has this restaurant. Back when I was outside looking in, its owners were Claire and Richard Douglas, and had been since the ’80s. Sébastien Masi and his partner Kirsten Batt took over in 2010 and rebranded as Locks Brasserie. In 2013, Head Chef Rory Carville helped steer the team towards receiving a Michelin Star. Carville left the restaurant in the summer of whe p iadeite coate m, ie n’eneunh wa’r minimwel, bl ourh enioog .ug-t,n ad b ps bt n afrer extvtey fva a oce y i ls ttly t s tt ut wviincinenhe e s t r thnf hld lrad iny a t oem wa oe gas-ig oaruoont cooc evsernw. I pldnese hon l d t Th con stii y batn . Winareen sw l e g wtif paol fio rto pnts lf as “l o - ad et o e t heg snt iib o tcGarry’s is n in t le b ts, a ening, I de ohe lifeo nip acr g t o h uffed w h p atrred fine dining experr-re fa d peac vy or far too swe of Cashel blue cnd ence. There’d ps a loct for sharros in this restauran llt;ust on the right side of decadently delicious. A I spot at least one man-bun in the kitchen. I read from various sources (well, commie, failing sources like The Guardian and The New York Times) that young folks are actually drinking less (and rutting less frequently) and bully for them. Theirs is the so-called ‘cautious generation’. As grey as the patrons are on this evening, Potager might just be the place for these joyless whelps. At certain moments during the meal I imagined that it might be easier to score a drink at mass – at least you would know at which point in proceedings that your whistle might be wetted. Our aperitif order – some martinis of various predilections, is nowhere to be found when the (excellent) bread service hits the table. We choke it down with the Cuinneog butter and whipped ricotta with lovage sauce vierge. Some ten minutes later we are informed by a callow young man that “we can’t make cocktails”. The gins and tonics that are to fill the void arrive after the amuses. These too are good – some cigars of rolled white beetroot with more beetroot and some startlingly green tapioca crackers with smoked cod’s roe. I would have enjoyed a glass aig’s tro beras cool ad doe t u een croauce pr Murrab pf tt meat encas d in a cr m, ret lo ul a e tl n t the dishes k d in curateies befoae, t s o vin pigs t estled o k d dony o o f A pled-at btutta e of a r lax d neighbour jh mod ouss j vani la ice cr a ler intery, as the fr’uit has been tifutle tno prema ure y wt astes liker telltale woolly textur essen a y a co perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature y set carameea, ca leafy fr d p a re poConsidering its history ofd transience, uost on t e r h lly we pink m he is reaig t side oll balf denaden ly delicio s. Avu his is top drawer stuff. A mousse a ce . Itt could ha e been o aore F osittion e v d tvhe be ea, p un tnty McGarry’s ing bssy aen t e t and the beer garden. I conclusion and some years after that (if we are lucky) some enterprising Mick or Mary here will have a similar, if slightly careworn, epiphany. Feel like Korean fried chicken tonight? It is the Chinese whispers model of dining evolution and this connected age only works to shorten the timelines. One strain of the Chinese dining experience that seems relatively immutable, however, is that of Dim Sum, literally translated as ‘to touch your heart.’ (The ‘disease’ is silent.) From the momentarily unfashionable Cantonese canon, the notion of Dim Sum originates in the tea-houses of the Silk Road and reaches back over centuries. Western gastronauts are currently busying themselves exploring the rabbit-holes of the Hunnanese or Xi’an kitchens. Take it from me that those rabbit holes are as spicy as all get out and take no prisoners. I’m talking Gavisconomie here. Nevertheless, this less infernal, originally cartdelivered, succession of dumplings and delights is the Mac Daddy, the fons et origo of smallplates dining. It’s also something that you can enjoy right here in Dublin. perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature Considering its history ofd transience,d s s an L’Estrange oe is rna y wrae ctant ra as ce y a eau tt Considering its history of transience, esign, Nu u Than . reshe v shades; draping succulen sert with astead it’s heese over a celery and apple maretto a t - ef snugs andugs andc ump m oack e woukl (ald-be Diotennis Ta’ylorer Book Now! er o liene life wor ple. Most notabl , ity, it’’s ho ce Threreposa urses andd keg where I r ado saor th ts, attelde Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 backgr cate wld while the resl (a p its owgn arse s g l bli t o a, b by b ket e , w heirloom tomsaereund av aca ros (€9.95) avdd ca v d blobs of a ov c t r LOCATION IS QUAY Charlotte Quay lin s for Thry finger ota l n t e wr aNEW ay fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. o s splapsi e y s mohe fph: (01) 537 5767t r vroe opt n fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. It’ he j tcate wtruic acos (€13.95) thn o puhite tpf tilhilanash a milelion thed ried mullet in a sauce of its own making, Web exclusive content also., highly finessed, cara bmte , ca fks tramelised ban l a and a chon. t r Ji anisible’, but Ier garden. Its close proximity to the Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 p avtoidin lg eye co oont o Tat witking i u amer ort eau eeleiful mix of unf ete t ne dh le singllose prose menu. y Hive i do t’h ano owsoesvy st. ‘ p neblole cing teen e h s o style barenuuitte ld t ks m h. en w e tiraovpy s o e as w ”, s a r s, a us os co a y orld go b t, r aua d in thnh leart d hav pun ers p a rt waemphe g o t a sen do craf h r a v-e nro a s at por a netwly b lh enceo.waws a e en t, b t t t einele tace I lott The Ihd in t’y it Ala, al e berd so t h s h s R en d cl The bllerldinshmchae r uer Sf y ax.t a e o er n f in nil he rograhpe aihf trohe bea aronu rac e vys oierable Oi h flots es a ur se o t A d p oetengering a deiot y Mt yre plroeig-eouu wtt pts ats gues dl es f us tdw e au a armn tf Elubcba sdier (€9) made wer s, m pe” Ik i v y a raet gasf fon ue o chld b en t cen ynur rlace fows lminog aun o kalvurnp t.o table Op ao tloa ehpe flaatnemt-lae g s- ntr au - y. oucrhiff of pd lit f (b cih Thl il then do cranift bole o s “lines udt), fd biou w o dg d suens ananahcenus h aces Curhoof f e t e a nt waer ext ty fu wlit),o t’r minimt y tas ton. ‘ ae coletst e, aree olilw ot), Lf fvtads ho emder in to haae m ce ctt h hied re ax.ben swe esl in i e cocear p y evce aer hi t riots ao the bebapblieru a e n l los t w ho se Qnay llor meon e pe en t i opon au.ugho o e.enos we exit, wav At t wer o goitues Acucle ohee Iut meae F em inum eo p o h ut crtioe phbo ie; i r tn e wa euquer St oem was so s oey a s nur 20s hinn pace fot i ’ Ah en ent yoheo oe segeto-gy Ka e n o e menugeres,le cleit b vwd gs,cGoarn ou gop g t an ry t gs gld lad insive nyunn r minimig tt. McGa try’s is n topetal Ths Rnehups be ale thin t en t . Y e r. er ht h es org tinearpw iohe fafuf tahirem. Thttt leag ea o os d to “pg ce ahg t e wnirld go byeay’ul nlin p d bt te b lde wer gas-ibs ionu n t etkelmin sit do u d br ao fairled att st waempts at gett g all t av Io ty te wa ad, tye con ac nd it wa ace omintert a misthmayh of Pinteruct ele u b wa emind whos w en u- einood o f senio y oecc or- d b r it o ie niohd-f thd wh eaer le O lowo h e a dr q oer u at a n adant aioers a cobmf re- u s rooeverast MVP and cenozerto w ie; irtd o t in an s h ’ coeen st deb ade, fl the best pos’ com any, as t t creh act-le g a blie hm wens, weh act anagahers a cots guesemin td melll p e, t erve, unpeur l rahess R hinc bh ein hele use t eir pthoss is the lack of lo A f bs i ir ite I l the bl rkacanaem iocp den enset r s is the lack of BEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace of his t-se exc i y tealnges, rare y occhine f og o he inted out in an ou r aeugo e sps folder (A2 size mayb der out how gio s y ta y to an imicltsh I was tna hes . H e b k urn momentarf thos hir hily to re s t-shir chan o recitose t oem o-e from t eh inted out in an lh t r ads ‘Th e a pat s urf hihinf his own, pr n imicltsh I was tna hes . H e b k urn momentare w ace w ac dle le y p wahats. The bd ckasern m p li unen older (A2 size m a o mebdd besohtle sian ad Mullligan & Haines er h I wlt hi c be a orem tat- n at s eh y’ ing in lif intts estuany, as t uveo er very q c e a orement-ion GARRY ONhe Pavilion Bar at Tr n y Collinege hn d ar a ve, unh - happy!’ It’s one of thos hir h n es, ra e tlhat shine from the happy!’ It’s one of thos hir h n es, ra e tlhat shine from the NUTBUTTER CITY LIMITS Nutbutter If you’re interested in food in Dublin, you’ve probably heard of the Bereen Brothers. That’s Marc and Conor, the siblings behind Dublin brunch and dinner stalwart Coppinger Row. Their latest venture, Charlotte Quay, is named after the block of the Grand Canal Dock that houses their restaurant and bar. The spot has previously been home to Mourne , aanen t taee aro sn, po me p int d oica ur sf a ca h, s. Hpets a co -. der f foet en he swks wits acr we s ate fla words Aoife McElwain photo Killian Broderick BEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace words Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick seats after smoking in lifh here tat mak Y ’ur lar ugh h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o mn imp acas ble sadn at words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan seats after smoking in life, t at mak Y ’ur laug h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o mn imp acas ble sadn at ring on te, therrace. ‘ ring on the t race. ‘ seats after smoking on the terrace. ‘You’re so seats after smoking on the terrace. ‘You’re so gio s y ta y to ae. ‘I wli h I was thess. The back gio s y ta y to ae. ‘I wli h I was thess. The back e ynu e sohte s op t y qtuickl’ in cy si e, under t r ads ‘Th reos y occurt r ads ‘Th reos y occuru h y quickl’ in cy siyps tve, une?) abo m I wt how ts es blit hm h g o h e terd o bYy, a- enoug den - uickly sys’ comtaan hmo traceenad o , Cm h.cl lioce , w h my f a ot m u Yurref (bmad eth ps ben to co te, un, unlb tl Dg bak sith n - o shnae Thd theormou ad wiuich iursi o osa y occuro goiues Ab lbl, Th tesat mweses tt ere in oen t ’ comt pg thmenenuy th den ad in e wa y He Iuaroar es tt m t. ‘Aheeo conveay a se Jo y Me fa es pex,ld l wamfor h. er f lf fd in tk, in om Je’ad ol f fakontas Recks wvierh my frieneet),, who’rse better ef tf ie aforemnte t ty c e ben on. ‘ ok of (be t n ooem wakerend in raeroguv d n t cit bs i b o det y m esha tg dgosolinoo O t Thd b e, s h e J a s e ur rla torie ninver e e t hded m eit er ext n tet y ft p gll, The Ial th oiues A be oem oae f e begt prnio s ks m ys o h na-t, waevintgnd aws a t n e bh actr m tes tg e Qa eense pt s f s in em s arruit a sey bu w tio oe, Ben te ane f f eso immgy Kd ph y Kli ly’s are better ptry cb-l vwadle tnro-n asrne twns a ie exit, wav o di in o vy mh-ld adenlf ysi es urw ie; i t s p g t n ar on irs a core pem it t paace f s Die; ieoana k orp rtlureic ismd wh e me . I p ts bur situra. eer s’ex, tll cen ynur rleau y a ra nttoe coc ded mps bo o aer noeing a liretle otoa p to tve pa rans to ts, wial i Th hwsk lminniy* p puf t o p st te h hld laad inin h ss, wver tvherewa es t y in a goa eteiinn adfury t et t- n di c d ett t tein t hin tinf ss uu qveer g ou ver hnt. ‘aer Hstion thg te al pv a nrewcen em. Thws aan tr e coe hance a lelg bg i, wt wa der in tar d of El er oes t nt wain a bvsve no le O t te bu a td sloecB y s n roeb y) chn om J tz P’ r pns od ms sh-st, wa k a,d f h e fa i. I t pk it y b b f the, rkivktinl i, Le N le thinh-sich itsni ts b r sit hy is tt o M otion ’ A ttlom d w saunler acrosegro f our citI auat d in t y’s is c v w? pf va-n aieir p t svks mer oe.vgs a t, waw. I pg yincevpgaup s uret ur orbs a couts gues f (bp Th e as werta npolog a rad fpr a t A s a co o oot r arb do t’hs Th es t e obho sllo sg a li le o ep b y ehut our ty iden t ea e a pt w rr ero t of inerble colminem ifgsiIu go, wg bd bji bo b hht “s. Onoe p onle o y, ur w loh ra, un ot r l Dd eth’k si td Pegg e ven t wander in t ras aneref Et h s had iats d eers, e a p n e t b n Whh hple. Th a tce ay t b pt f fipry t o o o do t’h y m ps burem i , in 2015, thoo ops a cod ir ou s ooev do t’h a a t. ‘ e?) a f f ks menad w y os thinie bridg u t a s on w v n t oa hraupcp tt.o teveads honwy ts gues-ts a- es McGarry’s, a er th r isin oich lifie o s einrg in.a r nereey co o um eauott to s ld lad in ld S di a t pe h ll f ae t its ovhre bw re y ka exts. ‘bdd bo k d b tff t em. Thd at le ver esgyoba gurasibsle ch eai ear, wy tks might h u ewpo etg a too kauinlisy bhen f tera poie e tt y em unnink a e p bou ah en ers s prog si as er minimtad a at waith enoug en es Abb’r minimahe b t wttrsi noey a s s, B l tints ohe fairer sex, I en f k i - iey a raew? e?) aabssf foivs, arraraks m as wit rd P o-ers a t h f th our rlf Gts Dunaan. ‘Bs saews s od r, bet. en t e o hin iobg a libg a lille ty been ht The Ihy i ero s to p ys i’h h y’et t. ‘Ar g e tg a ou p- st oe aspir o qa uh a st e hre pemi cenlv, st por a nof inverste ou st aooev o er vor h th nd ay-urfe fald Svere bd a hac keto , ts Retad wl’ iet.t o rarn adiera, kale aead n x ut binuuer Streeax.h its an s R , wera resder in tiond of Elidg mink ahd rreeax. ligf fpen ld S di e f ws uer S h ast MVP and ag ouGARRY ON McGarry’s t cr rdenrhe denen t or som o contvaehlishm houg b h f ng v w o tt rat er trpesder in ta obt f Ele?) aacg oe k and r let. g in life t hle ubblineir p s, wer vt ba ween t e e p who tta e scira n f f o immer a f (bmer v clight’ in cyn ve en hnt ye si e tt pt n led co ans, a-s t t creh act--aden u h h an a race u or’t pur le sob te s o y qween t e s a s Dosf the Thkges, rar hin side do lde v bn s Re e tm Jol hoetca bs id the haut met uic em ihyh ve, under r h art spesah flo m t end a y s m h.os y occtur-ts h, b t bet ’ in cur e hut m es t ad wireso imm di hhd, w gs a ts os bs nienebd t how den ug ug h pa py,’ he stops to say to me. ‘I wish I was that h pa py,’ he stops to say to me. ‘I wish I was that happy!’ It’s one of those exchanges, rarely occurhappy!’ It’s one of those exchanges, rarely occure you re so ter very quickly e you e sohter very quickly sur lahoht’t creh act- T e av on Bar a os areir phgones rely occurGOOD SPORyTr at Thei iG A HtAotel SADDLE SUP The Horses H h hrumphrey’’s Stagag EIGHT OUND e 19e 19 The Horseshoe e s or he f A fluan at-lax’ecausuer Stc vt t Hes h yeb vohhiff of p s ttle thhinoreten t Tha , ahen v eh acrtanu m eo d ll past MVP and – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. ing t li e a e’ r b in er! I erheaavefe a simi’d in the h arur ent uer St f craft be en hine sk araf Reet.o tkcGar y’s i oosa y of the visib hle’, be-racing on on t I s Dae pab’s with tar occvu af o cv n tieto kuep bye hhads hfeoinena, a d ieir sig deapolitlitany’y finger on tihh my pint in t I am no Joyce scholar and have under my belt two failed attempts at getting all the way to the end of that one in which he wrote about the ‘ineluctible modality of the visible’, but I am struggling to put my finger on the what h ns e o w e wenat un er – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global horse-racing o horse-racing o screens. No c a avoiding ehere is a smu er d th f ccc F r e he a ou pleo pleasant bsut beer garden sf th t wa Is u s mtles on diet o scre h s. No ch ow S. En rous M pass a hlo ane ys on witth my pint in t r crat, of cote, I ple res at wa ul ofce Le Cirk, der m ly belting po l in the pu Forttuna elh gl e of thrli s iir t o Dutc beverages. ris asrant I eer garden so I make a beeline for itTHE HOME OF OR GLAD Elf on any w a d wi a eeYEShat-to-e The Shelbourne HiMti ES OF IuT n l, bhe ve S h Hotel Hump Baoe Bar at – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. MAKING A HAMES OF IT Mulligan & Haines Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global GOOD SPORT The Pavilion Bar at Trinity College Dublin SOUND OUT Stage 19 SADDLE SUP The Horseshoe Bar at The Shelbourne Hotel DRINKING ON CLOUD EIGHT Humphrey’s thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association York Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having operated as a bar since 1661, and the essentially untouched Victorian interior that you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Reilly in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention of its name elicits in many a knowing smile and an assurance that it’s one of the preeminent venues in town for dates that you don’t particularly want anyone you know stumbling across. The root of this association remains someday and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. day and stirring ren Mutionn & Hetines ico tco hceryes tat mhts tt drinh m is pe t ths o litolle die y uvut es s n e s uh a tfm de f G en tes thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association Mulligan & Hoines ih p b r h le Shlo ty h t uesh e berkl eso es a di lliga e bf Y i it is abougt e n tind sties; the two pu lic h lin tllege urys a t t is a out th of the lobby in tt ps tnyn Dg jn h ur br p Alone can be heard fr m ouenu c an tit unques inea ing a li g aonurs t e spacees yolu t. The g a h dind ce sareo t ent h o On this particu and i in Dubets nont iougo ing the hhe harsh glare ot i ch m e nh p rbra screens. No chah t o mit or cra S u ur t to iding eye conttact w tking i h o y j upstic. Jub to ie he n ur of J e oy n Du lin,indowat wati h e ts nalatlhe f m sess, ilt s, plump Bkoske tail men t wav s. U lesotionns y r k f coe. W ple rple res ld cei yt Ir h whist wa ly bot h ths oo e o atblet ose I a luiro bur loes y lief sum s r crat, oquasrursei.o ts groinoelutelline thnd slo day and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. arsh glare o h oir th s inae hiid so t er anyac erh apnd kepu y pr e bkeb’s mta n en mics fiisiotne ss their coc es len rd W fing oliuh adjepro huctionls of theer lightd ’ i f to fa a rade-old wa ts, ng n sigt dr er onk l si s w unid me Butenervina, it rur th o ep Ins et ad, there is a sm ttt wad th tf ce it. e wassio t a mishma h of Pint en n f li saay poure r lesinlts oe o t t e do t sne wou and it wa erd p ved thrs nuinne p or at abloua Dus ae sun af tf rinfof f teclf Joye waacot pro oe on ca eenIMM - Thee Im o tme rmt ropn tio, B y prtice Instead, th e ier s a smo d ainrs e occa omers aovohit - mao eroag o carcllkf f r tv y compwt mt e eaolleg Df tthb fair thernateurrbraicerts, n t m ams, p ar prroves a f th bev e osh whi Iskuy bot asnco pd oy tning. Th, a ygtiudents. D -pge – I e s w les on diet of on, jur tof Pa li o ad tt And th f cpudin h acen ulc didnera’t hoss s oif th th uplit, of cot p th i kt es Dublin’s Best B.Y.O.B pool hall. wiesit cony t Tai h e ets nats of Guinn tately, p ump Buc g. The t h masteru’ p b r hinTHE HOME OFwelg Ut s pae syrf ind b gt rade-oudin t of th dt ph a rd kummls. I f mo dbugudt to Aun hloenaled ruvoe bsts w shi ile higemo difild g h-ceies a erins ac ucca mle waers af thf li poure less ac us s op t i t a miesherloace fa r d y-drbli hm an g o carmint us ll b ludens sg tol ot o idster la misttak Sq mino n e nktrohr d ceiline tbmet hig t in w- . e oa y jly ju e 19’ h in s, it s st c mio Squareert oims. U les d alat y rot ent ea uir hep io b do . W lo n ootiof coings, it r tail m the bl sie s ouid me Bd ae tlf coin , it ra , jo fami inoy memwers tail menu clasive ah i (€4.80) le d cei he I am deeprllibo adjt sic dinnu’l, b ll Nep t Thugs, b ghhar e sst o ults. Deso suerh e o t e b r t didn’t hause a librantrint. Tha ggsin e seantihas a ts. d and h t little dig tld o en mics fly Bk , jor t oygt arn ga fff Parliws pppva- y e n ld g b rate insig lt int o ses ooset oftefrmances’t h ouhe loubb egutah sepacio inea heir co D p s t a ship w l o cehat her ah n Du sic co rhat, Bts ti haltl li e Hinh e on cded their o n s y s-d SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader warming and clim (€4.80) leavha g a little sne w o suchine game, b len bt fie fll a gap. s nh f Thtside o rader f t 20 p u warminy chlnice, wendel hba to rea anhge h siderablinter my ald e ono bse desired. in D b revo ve gd tl h rve ce ae oge heoaant a e ga I mer t admi int bk inmi b den w no thin l l, b f G en tese pair es eyr pnes immvree ttr ey dra y a in Du tbeir tabt blisame 19’c um h os D w e rougeine s onywb r d ken abe. Wit ttth its gure o tside oerv d a plin,k ti ad sloptp i en a d pt t gohal here is no o cuinnen l n g atu b en Il doi en f r waruar w ue s an aae a menf Ja, tye vesinn uhi, bu , th o’vuoin e narur e ot. oanoe tn Dld e en bpose. The e gamevs we forg v lin wl ts of Gf tt m t Fe a m f Jo hcetan Dt tblin,hiiny wb to it. I ma a e c hat tgteah e s ast o os’ patbitvoecy coceaon sigh age a mances es.e a lit egu arly host liic. J a en ast pst. I maae a menuaoycea T kinur h ome f t ly McGaroroy’b s h f rele tff f r t e warmch Mulligan,eeiced ’ s in udin hepr fducttlions of the e un t s p aying p acl in th ts nbach o’the f.rom s at d poo uetween thfe toliletst ilets a ter mh NEW l the DNA of Chapter One is all o er the place, Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 LOCATION IS QUAY Charlotte Quay o; ter heet away while s ie sll hta aer speciroa n her lm sin ln s gef,ugg lv y an blister e cone. Bacr ene h, wh substa, str tia he evenin . ith The pub is he sueci ls. The s crubeen croauce p s wing uo soale and bvoursf soft goat ui bi not exclusively so; there are options to add proteins including chicken, turkey, salmon, and beef, all sourced in Ireland. Behind the counter, staff are peeling and chopping butternut squash in the background while the rest of the team assemble heirloom tomato and avo salads (€9.95) and bowls of Rainbow Padthai (€12.95) to order. It’s the jackfruit tacos (€13.95) that win me ac eret of the team assem e s arr s t wleanuW er parfa s he c im auy brll ofhi ane tas es a tler chai r too heah and fig dests hang overhead while vely, b t fu eels a litised an v ramer te o swe a an t in’stoco a es t and bt inet, buamboo light eady to be ‘grammed. Its millennial eets palm tree princ connections. T u maretto an poac, aeod it elevat es tl h intmyose cl e fruit has besen spices mix so faun er servy Christmasic b oere may be s wl d b ps to ireasnmaon oo t, auks. s ch ronds coveach and fig desser pots; evlen t e ceum (€8.50) is lo l h d in what t w u The expay bd in th b sinesld be expecnd in th e s aut ff are furiendln could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved P spices mix so favoom ume b d pny Chri t t cac o ld bere mectee som e earps to ir y and kien u wous, but I dote’t exp e ea ce any on m wisit. Th b siness, b t I do ’t expern ce any on m isit. goo Th id te stafps of are f t tn whraiendly and kn d steerin , giving good tips on what to order and steering us away could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved owledgable, g o order anowledgable from over-ordering (we wanted to try everyfrom over-ordering (we wanted to try everyuut how lovelly thi thing), and the room is a pleasant space to be thing), and the room is a pleasant space to be Canaanal Dk, and think abo t h ow love y thiss veranda aa an s a wouu ld be o n a s er , i’t’s sttiil a beau if urb urbaiew. Our bill , w an vn view. Our bill hich in udes a g verandnd vid vtista wo ld be on a sunny eveny even-ing ingven in p. E . Even in pr we hh , it in. We ge grab a drink at the bar connec et d t o the t urant after dinner, watch th e rain hit Gran oooor waetat er s s lll a b auttifuul,l, , w hich incclludes a gllasass ofs of ontepulci lciano (€8.75) and a h mo emade hibi-cus sy ur p with spararklin M Montepuano (€8.75) and a h omemade hibiss cus sy ur p with spklin g water drink called the Charlotte Quay has everything it needs to C sharlod: a gucceette Qruay haw, a talented chef, exper - succee d staff leading the c a ge and an a e enced stafl faf leadinlg they need is for Du get over tee psyc o en d: a great view, a tah r loya ce loyal fanbash. All th logead is fier ou atiners tffo t ver thea e psyck. Thiic l bas w rth s ekin nbase. A l the charge and a blin ey nicel barror Df ebling o get ohe b ten trachologs sapot irr o ier of e eat vies everything it needs tio lented chef, expadlr eriyn alreadyers to eat ing oufft. the beaten track. This spot is worth seeking out. g water drink called the Queen Medbh (€5), comes to a total of €90.75. Queen Medbh (€5), comes to a total of €90.75. e bum ly days of a non out, aesw erienrly days of a ne y v y viving g us away in. Wrab a drink at the bar connected to the res resa taurant after dinner, wa ct h the rain hit G drand Cl Doc ock, and think abo Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490 Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490 L’Estrange of L’Estrange Design, Nutbutter is poised and ready to be ‘grammed. It’s millennial pink meets palm tree print and bamboo light shades; draping succulents hang overhead while leafy fronds cover corner crevasses from their pots; even the cutlery is rose gold. It’s very beautiful, and it elevates the atmosphere of what is essentially a counter service canteen. Poké, proteins bowls and peanut cacao balls potaci lleh d in whatt tvoured b ice cantleas s cooks.ooze and Thké, proteins boures a e a e th s tere of whze and e that comes from sousastes like the c en. s h m d in Ied a d blehinh e I rer e count ysetd c p-ening ucumber, ome b me p nt a d kRESTAURANTeg w the neck. A dimin te’s deli g. ts fping bptterome t p m kein b is hom o a res. F rboim thnow ucuma e ainbow P t a over. Jackfruit is sort of like an ugly mango and it’s blessed with the ability to soak up flavours and retain moisture. The tacos are served with Murray’s delicious cashew nut cream, red wine vinegar pickled onions and avocado tucked into soft white tortillas. Thanks to the vision of interior decorator Jill cr y’ oarhis dish a milelio ther es bie is a prd w ks r batter.’egar pro bers coo ens a ven t ougo an oh I , tn.eder t tte u iest . Ther with m e a frictkh and perf c d af thado tucozy , none more so than a dish of lightly rrt me’s.t resi it (€7.50) w th s lted insidevered via a ploak mle on, a d bs si led untiarlt out e €28, w ink myself do l inside. H NEWk d with the Michelin star pendant heavy around d td it emain fne fl suf wn at a repure arp from the plating to the shagpile, but the service of thf the would-be D ouldnn addi ennis Taylort f s slllugging i an y! I p th charrlf down at a repurout be pu n additional €6) iauralnrle led untilegJoshua Tree. (It desicrh cibes itself as a brasserie, no s t wackf a t t Joshua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no khular menu, baby beetbout them. d cirn d salt-blaked f smesq ettylitks oo a r r ens and circu arrahe p board special (€15 extra per person and it’s worth it). We get plates of slowly braised short rib and then a board of pink slices of the tenderloin fillet (aka the chateaubriand), topped with onion rings and golden, fluffy chips on the n o y oerioe seasora o t ubriaae s vani a ice crea er corner crevasses ft with arom theird tle too premhaturetly w e gvoely, b t f ely be , aphhassic booat i board special (€15 extra per person and it’s worth it). We get plates of slowly braised short rib and then a board of pink slices of the tenderloin fillet (aka the chateaubriand), topped with onion rings and golden, fluffy chips on the ld. Itus veers a lita-uche s eurn. Thven thon oough I’zy, tenten a vah manner (potajay), but of smus cuieth its ww nut cren (€3), witoins one trenc eautifnio d, ew vh ce sea’so enten a va, o riation oae cs dit encsat td in a cr spbri nd sh ring t n sioer ecf int f thr decoco ate ll esi int (€7.50) wtbith s er iltvd haring g u (a pota e) with bacon pulls me bac www.thehideout.ie of al s untpr enp oks td rea e f on a crospd so a o 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 with tb meat anly lon would wtant to feed to somebody who loves Featuring a dazzling array of things tpo do,ini y? els and inesse. i h m ith ths t bein you unconditionallyh pleasant beer garden so I make a beeline for it with my pint in tow. En route, I pass a handful of punters playing pool in the pub’s designated pool area, positioned smack bang between the toilets and the beer garden. Its close proximity to the latter means players can go for a cigarette break mere feet away while still having a front-seat view of the would-be Dennis Taylors slugging it out inside. Handy! I plonk myself down at a repurposed keg where I remain for the evening. The pub is home to a restaurant known as The RESTAURANT ac auce pr with their lo th tviely long rghe name of T n (€3), w thprinkled h d t of lie micro-glreens a y g up t go a e tif katchstic y t p t o lp f alobs o arrahe pl t . I ve ea n tnounced in the Fr, encriation o-g e f appk uatel. It looks reestaurant may not be proe eader ouicks of apple awd brlobs of so, rfe reg-t 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 a roots are serve ia a p a ts c y preciximity to the ns pl yerith subs anor a cigarette break v ereet aeciaiols. Th to add ping a f ont-seat view en, tur ey, sa Ka Shing has been around for a couple of Mulligan and Haines, the otherwise unnamed English student who stays with Mulligan, this Dame Street bar occupies what was once Sweeney’s Mongrel, what was once Le Cirk, RESTAURANT hile still having a fr l oft-seat view A SITE FOR GLAD EuYEdSYES alifeless pos e th elluo old t o birdo or f whimd the Cirader ionee minoerce wayerre iing a simiied e inn q at. Sl W ing in tn a io li STEP INSIDE STEP INSIDE b lengths t old t o birdh ltt ewt acen anoeue sigleg uxif, BfIMM - The didn I wf ta ure oy inoyrceaoso tr e lin thaar proves a it to Aa orn he assumineg trhe o er scuasmle establishment t a August seeme n hf wearin udenll of thpe b r’ o difgf o tf their an lent th o f t l o l. A hhpt f t e w f tt m sic col ld g ning re mhenpu co tet t f J ao t aer ane my ous more a ageh li o araation August to Ap i o s st it i e o rader i h rv e n te o er hn aap e d to haae t uhlin wou hme Saddle Rs ne p er k firat c damle es blily ahm er n et to fw lo e cite a sintg om h t l tion m g aod ca next do ho o c nahg I must admit to a measure of opportunism in my choice, we had been invited to join family at their table in The Saddle Room for dinner - and it seemed like a fitting moment to perform the old two birds, one stone manoeuvre. In theory I would get to the Shelbourne an hour before dinner, belly up to the bar and do my thing. It didn’t quite play like that – two family members were standing sentry in the vestibule when I revolved through the door at about 20 past six. So be it. Walking out of the white early-Summer light my chpende ne had bhe doe R. Werere most rmi’re pro lice co ra lty mooref lurbrriuthard e us handpt t er c in y d n ohuc inger hi rs n e oh b g ao tun ossume one’s ey with con wa e ven sa n tyt hag par ic g I m t admi into a mer t iot of o io orrtini gle olther. Siy under i Rane evious guise a em a i e il s imm e closv v under i Rane evious guise a um p ace to loedia their tab ablism y col s; Ha” of The Rie a o etd e e mer or f r w rky in hm h’ Wiy St ump reehe ci , t han painerd deplize tha ne waas it pende next do, w ext do r t oice d a hb t oovo r inen inait te h. G bo jns n , y u Shm he tk o t e ‘hy’ it seemean t seem ct 6pg mhoermenk – pee ash d cockf ts o a eir a t, th F m tg tat ie – a fache decika ies a . Iag hv oar eir a f lean towal s a cer I wou imme o t e Sh sehbt have been a olin hild of the b lt-lis-n mlcohahlic, otli a eg l w e roug ne sn quh pe reaa vvlic hm gunfire, c enos ties; th e Rag Tlitanoatr n was mero’neoray et o On a et t ate insigwlt into turoouses a e ess poe tor worue didn’ egh te gs a t n o les of Beaagra t S d an ten t e av uuer cen oh r s w e satnnpdinatees aer to t e asasumad bralouru d a Fad br tht t in, thh e wa otmet h barr us h low-s ta (€4.80) lera ur t o k a et co k was tloavhy o ace a to a meg a tobuili ne way o loule w e sth lin w le in Th humin’et h inhrtside one w re t esoauSt sag s sb pu eno ta e long-esae wwous t qui’ e p ao lo dene low-lit hindqpar p go limere is no t ae srcagsh p tb s eioog ump epo s i v ’acg ty ognsiestve-posee adorned sig wa er s e; H ooasng coinotsnereoee te,eo su un g t y up tao t tt S De b bnlid do mlcohinan an onadot l b atioi , ser gai depa s n ly t oug pue ca ing blem ace tle ay lil inwa kdihen y tt entith arg pfuthv tticuetrys t ess aw-sinereskd depic ion oy tt ent ies, mu rminrallyyewa p idecahinoed opaciouhrter k rostn te tu n a e beg the sl. Bo Dpacioble 19. Thiih pre to te to f our si ld g ev ties; tumc markaed f t non ra e ese o tarly sly identied pr a. Thrg St ur wa ld pe minfdur bf t. A a s an ylisestle in The Saddle R t a rm ftkr dinn r ft establi m less v o orem S d ty’s, f r bettrt ver - ad a led like a fs sdiuttin o ta o bn h thaces liooeemoldnt’eft oihine - the rougi h-h Th g in a f t eflef the sign oac wotl r er ain sennial red-hug ein ep-c d ab p’yty in hk nio e coniath rader f d dir enoible caunares ’er b a og sosmd tohry t a S Movles of th o ers, for betw t en y morefurbiuhardo S ab “bmperounhr ’ets Dao ta. Ad er r w imme iie ab tewhwo ptuk, ble bw i sret n tus o ls an emain d g men- s sne an tos no evw sweuvu es arnn auxifeir ofier r diw H ps th uai blic hs more a ag sen o of whammon sens neg-es akatt s in th-wento ink s no rader i d in ther yade tli ery slle et of s lesuryt s; Hlliaim St oo h vas D in e Rdg T ose norse, rds sts aesito teetv f s o y cenlo h er o rader h t seem Wet tao fustes o wa pube ties t idaog-es ask asfertsreu soeir r inhe m mene R g Tli p arl couet to fore loer be dib s, o akwot i aut t t riy ocife, t e ext m e c l e inbh o p by s een aeth rlesos taar yae pu ts p ercul tradi g hh b ade a e id sigy in t hbbt – t ugies, mu g tete two sued n wa h uic y m di h taps thaourne ah patae n mo h a tol es ane hing e catrinar ot St ous w ig s aor liht tlic, olih pt thdly Drents are w d the ci y cen re roiutind , h-h Th t i o t e lolic t tesbli hus rvbertertinetlar. Wster at. Bktsig t into tn in bit d s s g b f tohre wn s leiny t est e pubo’s rt o h e wa, t y oini g o e do re R g T e t ao rea b hacr t” of Th. Wg T war ts th oeacr es a “siith ac umpis aehrnd I dge pubs’ te dod te h e peotly int abo plos m o in s yt o pu e hrom t ael haun t i” t ta t. Sp as mo R t leir snugs, btath b r sinth a tfg cointvertere eaw id hteapeosedly e reahit huck d eap-e cer aet rald-wg cae 19, beth n hfosrded their o Thl he ibbko doooas eparra eer gardens, b th with a q litf tg bet clos indephili f oht t e va t b e o h en I h lod t t g senmiaave o h pporrts nit coom as t u -pace e h e chlize t So be it. ld s aen ls n o ev licknesbo difheo t t;t aun emeticli oun e o’minos ta. A ver - any ahe len didnl ador e Ben mics f , aast iepg coing toe t w s o asnhncertter oouse a libaral. B lotegu a. Th ourne a t drin inrg in eing l gs a sin e 19. Thi n ger o aer ans hper Waaoh b s tuden , b u tet a-pimthe tt e ere i oo do e sin eir cocges immedi e t y acenhe buouses ar e essp in s h r ryebrray hat mg jnign mo ims. U hleser gae p otiondenl t – twgsh with a qu lit g byamensu a yl o adj st owve a’t qn tnq eas ot tby B e I aqlth of oaur louinn h h d m u inrerhs, bude h st o les yoet cae l me pstir w-sttk s o bler ty t at coqlth of our loycal music to it. I m klimg seniny in t e whher mont fsll a gap. o s e s arning. Th, ad do my thin k. It n un oluesy likdepenureradentr uies, m av y o f td oparning. Thtr anotr s f tne bd sigilt, shabby t oug v l n ttt s inminlusit. Arinl b oom, wr’s ba seeme lintiod out t s t f rc atp w th ge H g jinsesnoe bafe and old t e powu es mttan e oerd al sspgaf o m de r y So baouStags assuming t ey wer o amle es ins tttent. The e a singare tm kinent tnat s spo f G h thahhes lace f r d y-drin ing ll ld stret s new lomin o ed a purposeio h b un ane loue ot iy intlhinhpn Drublin trhiotend old everages. os h r es e oh whi key be t any t le isionoies w aur too brief suma ow uweeneouusurse.ot pongre , w uh t dful of me Stroet bhe e e onssppl y behind a cage – t o . En r y’ te, I pasls a han ldf The Hideout ar Eng sh student w o st c tageon signage and old m d n an car usinm.e waaerd ruvo ere om, w eriia seemed a dg d, is e sun aonmati o g r eroech attlypnd kt een y prl like Im Matltligan g o ain Mulligan and Haines, the otherwise unnamed English student who stays with Mulligan, this Dame Street bar occupies what was once Sweeney’s Mongrel, what was once Le Cirk, hi o I m ke a be line f r it h t was once pliic. J h m tas ers’ por ra g up its o n a se. From t t goaegardless of how y Featuring a dazzling array of things tao do, ou feel Web exclusive content also. hc o th a id p f atn fêted with shal vings of frozen buttermilk. Ms f L’Eus er p’nge D e cht co ld hn e b en anut squaasr er s e t known as Th A SITE F I’vOR GLAD EYESle of p l bloden ots atr ankiness. It is something that you g roots aado shed., s t inkled at win me an business and she seems to have retained her Nutbutter Forbes Street Grand Canal Dock Dublin 2 www.nutbutter.ie Nutbutter Forbes Street Grand Canal Dock Dublin 2 www.nutbutter.ie m (€8.50) is lo jelly divides the table but I know better. An y is ros octopus dish has clean ozone tang but also the I’m told that there’s no pickle brine for my douchey martini but the Negroni that replaces it works like popping a pacifier in a baby’s mouth. Another reason to shut TFU is a steak tartare that comes atop diminutive blue cheese sandwiches which have been steam-warmed. It’s a statement of intent. I’m a big fan of oysters, there’s little to compare with the experience of cold briny bivalves, tasting of oceanic sex, slipping and sliding down your gulliver. I’m a fan of cooked oysters too. Wiley’s Nashville hot oysters (a riff on the furiously hot fried chicken) are reason enough to come here. They are momentarily deep fried before being replaced in their shells with a sauce offering just a suggestion of sting. Sublime. Oyster mushrooms, parmesan fondue on sourdough toast is a pleasant thing to eat but can’t hold a candle to the previous delights. The dish I’d most looked forward to – pork hock, pickles, hot mustard, steamed buns is not on tonight, chef tells me that he’s not quite happy with it and that’s reason enough for me. It’s back on now and I will be back for it. Venison chilli is a deeply involving bowlful, profoundly savoury oots attac e i, s the rally Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com years on Wicklow Street without raising a lot of fuss. The room is not a pleasant one. Service on a nondescript Tuesday afternoon is almost disappointingly affable, devoid of the brusque disdain that I know I deserve. I recall a dinner in New York’s Chinatown (yes, again) where the service was so comedically disapproving (of my race, nationality, shoes?) that I began to suspect some kind of hidden camera set-up. As I mentioned, it is couth to take tea with Dim Sum, but I need to get back to the office after lunch so I restrict myself to sluicing down a few cold Tsingtaos. You don’t want to bother surveying the ‘wine lists’ in either of these places anyhow. Use the time saved to say something pleasant to the person sitting opposite you. The chief, giddy pleasure of Dim Sum for me, at least initially, is the feeling of reckless surfeit as the table is seemingly overrun with dishes. With most orders coming in around €4.50 and designed to share you should throw caution to the wind. Turnip Cake, a Dim Sum stalwart (they u s coao balls Rody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd I’m told that there’s no pickle brine for my douchey martini but the Negroni that replaces it works like popping a pacifier in a baby’s mouth. Another reason to shut TFU is a steak tartare that comes atop diminutive blue cheese sandwiches which have been steam-warmed. It’s a statement of intent. I’m a big fan of oysters, there’s little to compare with the experience of cold briny bivalves, tasting of oceanic sex, slipping and sliding down your gulliver. I’m a fan of cooked oysters too. Wiley’s Nashville hot oysters (a riff on the furiously hot fried chicken) are reason enough to come here. They are momentarily deep fried before being replaced in their shells with a sauce offering just a suggestion of sting. Sublime. Oyster mushrooms, parmesan fondue on sourdough toast is a pleasant thing to eat but can’t hold a candle to the previous delights. The dish I’d most looked forward to – pork hock, pickles, hot mustard, steamed buns is not on tonight, chef tells me that he’s not quite happy with it and that’s reason enough for me. It’s back on now and I will be back for it. Venison chilli is a deeply involving bowlful, profoundly savoury Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! h ee p b’s designas designtatteld plumDublinl’s Best B.Y.O.B pool hall. mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s JAMESON BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM e w nal €6) ily back on P nell Square, not g y precise menu. e to a resttaurant k e r n as The www.thehideout.ie awaye ever been arheir w ort rib. An Web exclusive content also. puti e cuplet of potato soup e k from full y brll ohifonounced Fastesh feel to many of Web exclusive cnontent also. um sauce (adding ADVANCED PICOSURE® Locks 1 Windsor Terrace launch their Christmas lunch menu on Wednesday 2nd December. Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. www.thehideout.ie becomes w forgets their w . Trorin he profusion of glg a flair of f Locks 1 Windsor Terrace launch their Christmas lunch menu on Wednesday 2nd December. A SITE FOR GLAD E Featuring a dazzling array of things to do,n oahrere ih the do r ago join farefurbiuhaerdo S i ten for St S ougaoobm t” onuve R g Te tby f r fm ds a “ ent that Wahkring ou Thh-ht oenhg Tts wvkaing in t ms oereo t entnyfet o cetwa-ys. o ftinhip wsd ss, oith adj auan q litherb fe minfoen a d a f those pu lepn tke a fi g tp ” t d to h t t s buror en ae was sttpineet hts wv ata ure oihf Jh adj e Ht m e on campeos tl a l hb wav erbh e bm u w oo f sd waher tlg re warmusic cors on s t eael like Im rary. Theao eannaginking in or sioa h tpd ru d ae wouurgfero t g re a nap enle eed to h ve thiny-S f the Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! e y, poolp Buck Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s s i d d Hasion l bo oo th shile high-ceilin mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s pog id pintpht i ro t th Dublin’s Best B.Y.O.B pool hall. ld b ort oi ogaeir lofcena erims aldlt m s s e y c a d liilo. A hd g tg mom e tr s in td cofgeir rkthg re at, e Rs n t. Shiete wwe eaoruy-Serenary s ld strrom t e otu minsbloouueld e een be fo m ttorougioiven for y w e a sin e tt ttinesy sisttio h t tr W am St oy werky cen re roo miuead a tten s earin udenll of the b ’ li hfur gyt s; H w loey’s, for better oo or worse,ent n e 19’ h in d thm f r dinna ably frer s Ft o en in i. W e whosu me cas ss ts ar g t erer be dis bld g ninoc efit enil hnn t Up fba t of a mt ohtd bach sm ing thin . F r fed. Th s tes a try in tty ter aesin s oning a lintle s ss a here stpaawreonlmy e “ e the doe coto c h e th er m g tier, t e as a cer in sen o pere erm to aray cewa-ys. . Ilnn aummer ligl eir sn ht S osts w amrs, per oorteve bat ndin uorsith poime rea fah n a ythin s noct thsthmk firh of Point y ataeres g o t o ida-ter es amia iy r lin eale sh le ws wt thinh o e o us, iyceabe t 20 pas g reproom, ww a seh-ceilinceewa-ys.s tmn ls. I fheel likd ’ THE HOME OF s pizzald cost nd t lvl higrher b ediider t e-milll bavr bio s l o t sts ora tini. Rary Charles iser der wh t i e in sict t hr lt h y of the sigded thh its wwls aen sltly ident o ak fkh y’s, I k hlim enftft wadnet oefsin eir snugs, bo s Th inthr, t li B t t aet, wht g. Itytvhing e se. rgs a uag aml ain ade 19. Thihh y tksd a d h tut d e p agtisfactrio miropirignutw e re f thosd-p er ine assf doe Tev y’gy s h sndiny ts w h b imet oaht ol esteate pu g l b t e is nto do agig s s a s pr b hbly a blad an ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the , oa ldenthw o fami y m g ackot tor, td tne my mo e ploputh reet k firot cs egd throug ratvloehm i ea eos uirf P rays ten e wuctio le higen o arayg u c aime an nques ou . oar om o a p fo a pTHE HOME OF r soorep tposition to te . ce t lvt y compac acless s oers nom s a e s s a f li s actu m us.ro rade-ola oes, tlle h t o id t-w se unname e hiner et proyor ions. I fl e ptlace for day-drin ink t y B ry bsehind a cagumamenjt - t e o t tl nl g a at tbs whi ppily es urude heqta o f o ou tcal mu-sic ervled a purp u t ofo brief s e – JAMESON A SITE F t h y t levpolr ty behind a c s pervaThe Hideout eoninetd alngen, i ice The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM The Pavillion Bar BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM 085-2357664 Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. k inttg t aah id a e, s enaven saon tyt hatroeras oet awers huinne e pair a e s qs, bo h w h a q enli y ot a f Thbuinnn. uni b l oindhe b r o e ree woe granein rays thotud s wf Gen ure h ini getl toun. Sio bte desired er e wo t rmivotny insorg vh enIMM - Thla y identiee ak n tr t ur ss shs ua . The . d dirv, bls t ftit six.ll a gap. g campaams, pre tocrm-ancesg e se. lcok lic, oliit erdvad ygudenlooing inve- he -l e ts gret.n b liurude h lo d slopp e desired g e t a u urt six. e p aservy f o m terd at d, is A SITE FOR GLAD E’h seusoegularos pototer in astichut iu A SITE FOR GLAD EheeYES’ s so-ea egu ars potter in and oat for smo es a Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. hb cuhoo mulliganandhaines.iet a s and prd p pa ero h eniou room pcats trhe last o Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. to iearingr s wven tem ervorar Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Harold’s Cross Rd, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W 01 406 6936 Rody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd Rody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com Locks 1 Windsor Terrace 1 Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8 01-4163655 locksrestaurant.ie Locks 1 Windsor Terrace 1 Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8 01-4163655 locksrestaurant.ie places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Featuring a dazzling arr Iay of things to do,e b idge f lr? P Featuring a dazzling array of things tpt to dol,ioy? Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Harold’s Cross Rd, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W 01 406 6936 McGarry’s 236-238 Harold’s Cross Rd, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W 01 406 6936 places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. facebook.com/TheHideoutPool/rt w t places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, ’t tlid oot side. I c Featuring a dazzling array ogf thinwgs tro dohile,s a sohe gpalid opt cat’ h thle lasvin . Thvening’t id re all should be), here described a little more romantically as ‘Fried Radish Cake’ arrives as wobbling slices of deeply savoury matter studded with exit-wounds of bacon. It should tell you to look beyond the often janky menu descriptions. We wolf it back with little ceremony. Excellent dumplings are dispatched with equal vigour. These are the reason you are here. Put them down like they owe you money. Pork and prawn with Chinese chives are plump and juicy within translucent coverings, they demand to be downed in-one with a jolt of vinegar and finished with a gentle expletive. The Taro croquettes display an impressive hedgehogish deep fried crag and give way to a deep earthiness. The black bean sauce coating those chicken feet is potent enough to render a shank of Motherin-Law palatable, but skip them unless you have at least one Chinese parent. Those raptory beclawed bits of gnarl defeat me. Order some egg-custard tarts because they are available. Mr Dinh squats at the very scrag-end of S DRINKINT OUG St ON CLOUD SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader On ap ideac wo umpe rey’s, I ki el n lim entra proa. Thrg St g d a em age, tow From tg time – a fache de From tg time – a fache de On ap ideac woe perennial r d-hairh b tlin b bly a bad rance way aboumpe rey’s, I ki elv y sew it wa nce way. As we proa. Thrg Staur way t n lim ent s probab. As wly a bad review Hut thhr lat review Hut thhr lat v y sew it was pro ag businesse ettug nowling b sines abo one’s eyle is imm , oe s quickly mtt wade appe cent as we v l d in f teesloseg a tboue anumy ano thin lh tminlemalr hov sing e waoedo suc y a -e o S t ts prlcaagsh pub s e e; H ade app ra ent as w lgicue venture ge,siest d York Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having operated as a bar since 1661, and the essentially untouched Victorian interior that you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Reilly in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention of its name elicits in many a knowing smile and an assurance that it’s one of the preeminent venues in town for dates that you don’t particularly want anyone you know stumbling across. The root of this association remains someYork Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having operated as a bar since 1661, and the essentially untouched Victorian interior that you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Reilly in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention of its name elicits in many a knowing smile and an assurance that it’s one of the preeminent venues in town for dates that you don’t particularly want anyone you know stumbling across. The root of this association remains someSOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader ain d depicb hep f a md btack walsl of tah-e baae n y o s asf the f lier, th atio v , otr ely dra y ano thinr h tminalrenlyytured p ace to loedia e ven sa n tyt h g p trom th asure outatppy o unism inu tu r ot d l n uglize tlictio kt tf a m s a rh o th be o hio . Sritu, te e “ e t o t hri hsiderabls on uc s sarsr-iner examub dureea g the cotnd t rader fhd dir cpor ot odslet with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from sidera in fa e poapsb n was m ongs milling n was m ongs milling ade to ade to hinked o e 19, bhroer kd se rsnt ty of our situts prlcaagsh pub s e e; H bl hr, t s i ea’aclitkshta agesiest hinked oge 19, bhroer kd s th b ep-co suome s-e ual a irtaur way t ettuge uts n thild of th ation was quickly m p veo s i ea’ackshta ay of o,ur situli B t t e e e pertennial rsed-hair nuts n thild of th cen ss Thble Te y’hr hep-co some e ert acthion alr ey dra hed to t e p ar t u s tiner to t e asse wan a r ta r the a s sns ual attir d ass The Te y’ w ac e cace s cen s umpgiveohe rsn li B lit e e aced b k wall of the b yyar only vl ut eru ierathd s n llirret’s lrs to trhifiesttke s o es evd y y s a “ s a cer hin slicke distca. Aeaee roiued at he lens elyy b” t tn F ve dictning in termu rk drt;rd Rit, g e t ne m e tsio hrfe aeroe thruxir façfgs mie o ff thade r nt s in thd t c iohr thit;h the lens es ysf fer eir rkefugi l haunsin lin mene with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from inhe moment t t reflecsiocited in the thr inhe moment t t reflecsiocited in the thr about 6pm on Friday – peak after-work drinkabout 6pm on Friday – peak after-work drinkDrury Street’s latest arrival h, t e Rag Trader, at Drury Street’s latest arrival h, t e Rag Trader, at My companions and I darkened the door of My companions and I darkened the door of an ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the outh nth a vaaerkre most rat entfls e un uo- th d co ougs h, a y sister atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 The Horseshoe Bar at experien l l, its tink oh, I decide tiesp e of t”he g as mlin a Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 mulliganandhaines.ie nmulliganandhaines.ietd dedbprd p, drun the men fu con in and traun-o 085-2357664. Utnrlibkosts ne i e t th co e b ls (€9.50 eacies o f nfts. A 085-2357664f backlibbv hces me to snging di sid a uinn e pizzas. I oizzas. I o that cou a The Pavillion Bar The Pavillion Bar en ue saf gin an o t e pof-tho tourrderlisl baloa kiin ply compau co fu n sits gatsts otf rer w f-the-mider whact i The Horseshoe Bar at The Horseshoe Bar atyp s I’m fioolin le o in is pf idyll ilic pll moser orn to s.m the mf migf dras uer Uists. A be lotokoing forward to atn encore.t h throwback though. One merely has to cast eye over the respectable selection of craft beers on offer to see that the folks running the show are in-tune to the desires of the modern patron. For the less adventurous pint drinker, your standard Guinness comes in at €4.70, pretty reasonable for a town pint. Like its avian namesake, The Swan is a creature of two sides: its sophisticated, historical bar area being the white, elegant, public portion of its avian counterpart, while the concealed, darker and nigh lawless area down the back represents the little webbed feet going ninety below the water. One might appear more impressive, but it’d be nothing without the other doing the dirty work. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Featuring a dazzling array of things tao do, that maken. That €ch55 menu buys yn br ot er en e on t o er e Town. On the other hand, perhall as a moyehf l. O Featuring a dazzling array of things tto do,uce (addin anot er €4 txample in the mullet dish, n the y we LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs wouldp h sinhmal g a Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic It athmines Pub Ecosystem. DW and rich, shot through with the fresh heat of jalapeños and balanced with gouts of cooling sour cream. The accompanying cornbread is the best I’ve had outside its native country. If it’s not on the menu you should petition for it. The dish that many will gravitate to is, of course, the fried chicken. They would be right to do so. Right now it is hands down the best in town. Perfectly moist thigh meat encased in a salty, spicy coating. The biscuit is perfect, the corn slaw more than an afterthought. Go get it. Their banana split is a dessert to put a smile on your face as it puts a notch on your belt. At least two of our party are instantly infantilised. Service is charming throughout and it’s immediately apparent that the floor manager runs a tight ship. The food here describes itself modestly but it could justify much bolder claims. I’d give a joint of my right pinkie for a restaurant of such quality in my manor. For the lucky denizens of D7, this is all the neighbourhood restaurant they will ever need. The rest of us will be hard pressed to find a better reason to cross the river. This is a North Star to follow. McGarry’s 236-238 Capel St and represents another challenge in terms of maximalist interior design. Giant canvasses in the style of Van Gogh bedeck the walls. They are in the style of Van Gogh in the way that, well, just finish that for yourself. Service acknowledges that we are in the room. That’s about the height of it. You’ll want to order more of those Tsingtaos here and pair them with some unreasonably good Deep Fried Squids (sic). The dumplings, especially the xiaolongbau are good too but don’t leave without experiencing the sexy, slippery pleasure of the Cheung Fun. These are long, glutinous raviolis that almost threaten to go down in one. If you are texturally timid, if you baulk at plates of whelk, or cavil at whorles of intestine, stick with the dumplings. Both joints are doing justice to the venerable tradition of Dim Sum but for my money, or rather my publisher’s, Ka Shing just about shades it. Nevertheless, if neither of these places floats your boat, just get yourself on down to Lucky Tortoise, where you’ll find some of the best value (and Dim Sum) the city has to offer. Perhaps change is afoot after all. McGarry’s 236-238 by exhibiting style and substance. In the kitchen, jars of fermented cabbage are on their way to becoming kimchi for the chilli, lime and tamarind rice bowl (€7.50). The bread used for their toast is a deliciously thick wedge of sweet brown bread made for Nutbutter by Lumney’s Bread in Inchicore. Their Nutella-style cacao and hazelnut spread (€3.50 served on toast with banana, bee pollen – I know – and honey) and almond butters are all made by Murray’s team in the kitchen. Similarly to Sprout & Co, the plant-based busiWeb exclusive cnontent also. um sa v to its origins while delivering a flair o Web exclusive conho t tent also.f finesse h , felati h eogtraphical isolation, ite menu) are too int . foams often serve to distance one frtom their with salt c raa mel and praline ice cream s ays true essences - the taste bd a condensed plesponsibility to be all things to all men when ice cream a uds are at second remo e. Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie A Thpn ap le tart o ts in ti h en r Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Tomato water or e ve g l e t rt with stout owor no other rall to be in a pub in Dub The elements in t e c oco a is jellified fn but work r Web exclusive coney wtent also.u attrd th hiat u or me a rlientele. Having r FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM ness owned by the Kirwan brothers, the food offering at Nutbutter is best enjoyed when taken outside of the context of “clean eating.” It’s healthy food that tastes good and happens to be mostly plant-based, sometimes raw, and occasionally sprinkled in goji berries. I like Murray’s approach when he explains that he doesn’t think of plantbased food as a lifestyle choice or a restrictive diet. “We want our menu to be accessible to everyone and to add to the choice of what’s on offer elsewhere,” he says. “One night you might eat Italian at home, the next you might have a Thaiinspired meal. The third evening you might come out to Nutbutter for a plant-based dinner.” That sounds like a balance that I can get behind. Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie v f w g at wur uea ox which includes tt o bo f food but it is f respect rather than aff sprinkled in goji b ppea diet. “W ADVANCED PICOSURE® eutside of tThis r Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie ete jungle. Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Victorian g hden is more a base al Irrd at to eaestyere n ADVANCED PICOSURE® tt ving a pint inh ou a lot ofd ftla- n Kildarfour and a lot of er is bes to €104, excludink ,ur bg tienp e con ext ottles oaf serll wat .one thr es as other €4 to t e mene you’roe hats, tshe fooheir hi t technique frjom a kitchen thatd when taillps this . lin quality is the vtve g” I ’s hwaloth ice cream a d a condensed pl irwa Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie cels at prhoducing fussed-oy hainy thing that h a oo maccat tas es gootill a beaptiflul r o ant-bas res ana , w es raw, a Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say place refers to a kitchen garr tha den, but a fe Mureay’s as cpra ac be an understatement. R eth opriate, with ltd f t ea s a lif t thle ch ice or a restrictive u to be accessible to ev when he exp a Mic lareins ttaar. Non pprt ts, it’s cer nature bent to the prissy will of the designer a rur ooeland themed, To. GI Fridays style bar/. Right now, I’d prefer to wander through an unrestaur e want our menant – useful for both family dining andekempt meadow of wildflo ice of what’s on o er lot but it’s still a beautiful room over-looking the canal, with really lovely food and service. It doesn’t appear that this team is chasing a Michelin star. Nonetheless, it’s certainly still a treat to eat there. e night you might eat see c urant mta ection. Te throoo n It doesn’t a rer ies. I likt this tram ior o lin sh t he doesn f plaan uct t it’s sd and haupens too bim oecentlyp. vertlyo h r lly lo end oly f sioccaugh aalnld a d serv e’leshink o t in y s curious unDub estwauraf “t mncle avtin eaer ger atnd teougy lot bh of their cestaurant that engenders , sometimi y heaave go v not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. e elem n a cr s e c ocola e t as ryi h stout py cir le of puff p t they operate in r h ense o Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie by exhibiting style and substance. In the kitchen, jars of fermented cabbage are on their way to becoming kimchi for the chilli, lime and tamarind rice bowl (€7.50). The bread used for their toast is a deliciously thick wedge of sweet brown bread made for Nutbutter by Lumney’s Bread in Inchicore. Their Nutella-style cacao and hazelnut spread (€3.50 served on toast with banana, bee pollen – I know – and honey) and almond butters are all made by Murray’s team in the kitchen. Similarly to Sprout & Co, the plant-based busiseaso en d al s potter in ag cous an them included the best (strawberrty) sorbet e ees mentdater attenn a neighbour oo ll of the weehs s ress e for? Probabb b tion an Is it wd focus. A nd co’ mf el a li rtle st t th l I ingly detlicio nd that c and its responsibility to both sell lasagne and chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday and Saturday clearly rank highly on the management’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain life flesgets t, m h lik ound. Wl h crossing th ’ r lid or palate fatigue begins to insinuate itself quite ly on, the barriw th sult c me orting traah t t e eater ts o ig ies, ehile deli Web ef ‘xclusive contenkt also.y circbs rbo it’s grand, sure.’ uc ost-Ang he s orrith this kind of food, ro a It’l n Auret g coin tious a o m sonaible, the definitiouff pastr ors p s it wortorth crossing ties, evy’s isnd is a sohoraption. ur n ap le tarnt o afacebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ of ‘i ’s ghus a, sure.an feor’e b idg e th e us, McGarren tem e goa raus, t ut ior smones a 11/11/2015 10:0811/11/2015 10:08 earingly delicio as a age ofl and p line ice cream stays tr Is it worth crossing the bridge for? Probably not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. facebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. and its responsibility to both sell lasagne an chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday a Saturday clearly rank highly on the manage ment’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain side. I. Iciet’ h thle le . in . Th eninYES e wlh in-Da brlin-bef rd delicio s, t u t dem nides ld cha th t enn a nItior eig tenanceood tll of than f 11/11/2015 10:0811/11/2015 10:08 ne s s, McGai . Ay’d is a s Stage 19 th oat cou o l shr €14 – i e, drls like a haerwiner e fnets hi es e The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 Humphrey’s and h erboflic desk id. Th f thig pearmd loon wtionmerost certa m. Ut rlikd p ure poetzel ion. As (€9.50 ele m Stage 19 t. A o h ’ spe vn d fble” wp a r k at ee e b tio d m u do L b bad ble ocad btunan te sopytar” Coaa y sy, th e de d s s e tmo ptnein l f intd p rd a vt b es “a s e bag ‘ecnt yta per lecoscen tuge 19, tkk oh, I decide to 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 dr sess h ls mig er t emn fs iecra, an ts hd pt. In kelhain in ting i rt drahrn ft om ae ssro the water. One mig t appear moarhde, doorur grau ece s prrn tcea, mos delivered I’m forced to cut short the tableside conversation. The resulting intrusion results in some tepid food and a charge of €30 on the bill for a single glass (not mine) of wine. I baulked at a $26 pour of California Pinot the previous week in New York’s Union Square Café because I was forewarned of the cost. I’m told that a sommelier (hire) is imminent. He or she cannot arrive quickly enough. The food here is haute couture, the rest of it seriously off the peg. Those mains that languished before us didn’t quite live up to the smaller plates. The mussels accompanying a hake dish have been over-smoked (a point made by the chef himself during one of his increasingly jocular visits to the table) resulting in a dish that had been battered to death by a stout length of hickory. I have no doubt that the error will be amended. I’m a little too annoyed to care about the duck at this point (post wine spill) but I’m told that it was perfectly good. Desserts were well received but I don’t have At least ten minutes after mains hat m dr’ve beene drink alo se erpt ar ti hi ac P . Thdy’s face io une s e toocun er e plin b er ans ni iyes oem. W throwback though. One merely has to cast eye over the respectable selection of craft beers on offer to see that the folks running the show are in-tune to the desires of the modern patron. For the less adventurous pint drinker, your standard Guinness comes in at €4.70, pretty reasonable for a town pint. Like its avian namesake, The Swan is a creature of two sides: its sophisticated, historical bar area being the white, elegant, public portion of its avian counterpart, while the concealed, darker and nigh lawless area down the back represents the little webbed feet going ninety below the water. One might appear more impressive, but it’d be nothing without the other doing the dirty work. viding. The chef himself subsequently spills the beans on this, if that’s not a food metaphor too far. Or even if it is. At this point I make the mistake of pointing out to one of the floor staff that the wine list really needs more scope by the glass. atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping en eye over th ern co’ h. One pog uess, we sgotmeo se, soh t nud thb d wimie eth a k thtini, a um t o v ic tn a fhw drawd a out t oh r atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping thro bw ac b ougars epoae merreras has ts aaakun js m les ing R c shpaderd trcaat sspace Jigse soue an aero- o. an dehed hhlder t ohs hnacenhle, a litale pow p se a m , a n Pr o-sioat ing pio as f ofhf-kilhe facao k i beers on o er t uae aamospa t ern) buin hiuttind pptporeshssine derlicio tract rod tic es y in kp) fougn b , iit’ts ohh f mly h gder d a. Alet , w the show a e in-t nter” next do h g wly drahdehe dcer n tnd r o o pra sehe les rue tum s s, siwe wc ps ferf €20 I colleld rvorwaee a modern pat van. Foar tnne an h coyas, siiptecautsseg a re a ps t o wy s th its a w e yahinbsilli e opinin h s iememtiour hno o H bg so g p sper tiioa owrugrglieu a ff a The s hot tou ro Rm tvak: alvt ih’e b t w s s every secwa eteep h co be f uinlos Epish e t h tetn) b t al I die Cd t o oyo r w lo atior desigt b hy’ f €20 I cof b sd om rabwd a e L V “b espu r p r’ ns ft, mi o-ceime thunes t. Thd h lit ads, die t ose po a h ima fro ectab o or noaio e llectinaleg a re bd of Gn od in Ds inunermwatice toe aemucs abo na a ueir cy bs e o es tk. Flof tw cit erotire bhrte souuss lo er er. u e aanurae ofarso e r t sem in Dueb rlin beer s a o cus m r proper cee ng spr on ter a ure o co bmm nely mcio t mic the, h s left t he pr er r ioghess, wle sn t anos f coy os, disle td wh m ss o erbo f razzledhl of s alininn. The dr bk, when , ta ne ptoht sb e crttrrthtdllhin e Chl oht os th il Dihpensa th S be salhtyk o y) c n s t to i urotvazzlef st tliniter. The dr bk, when as o ick t u o m ts. B tim eing te Dceiolin Bg oad Ctroine ld e prt, y- e wa’ fo’m drink e mi e thy be pos teinng oe spf semis d wd aith a NO UGLY DUCKLING The Swan b hipositlestvett? Wcat stcta halh ’bhen ild h en iaacs. I’ logo bthsacn im in roto t e a ihihts ar a tioyway’s f r t e un a again t ka orerith a nioe Hhs tnen eds ineima ing a re a o ehed be s s t ns caos mis prro n ao pbu hnd thr a glyonig- y p tros, t e leigiesd by tim h t wen ild hlinn implied q esh d thid a l k housrassy too e h inaver der enheal t lan s so much a ceatic tigassp a not a mil a p s tpmofo oes to coc uoaysucat erers t , qt trt I r Aovery wmat o. The (td s meran. Thrt I r e; t er f ue p d de et uny atd Mitkpace tgo olin o, t f pt at otowat hite M&H co t hings) Ia’nf crosdn licioe is utterly seamless, they even share a bathroom. Somewhat thrown by this revelation, we sniff out an unclaimed table in corner and begin to fully take in our surroundings. The first thing that strikes you is that the in am an t f bn ne a enlitds int avaf oder oohat s er lh h Hb o g potims tsio hatoruugg mn do e M&H cot o tirs unm d ade oahce s t, a s. Th t erttem, n d m ace ues n ma k, Icekt uthe c tmm d we atoy r v by oben lo y t in la orer i w h a nnd tnd-limniwa led denizen klo ion at mhnd theulrligadn &d ‘ig- h ns apo ses oe, bvai gue re ea ade o y beima uy oesrs ie 19’s pat o bh o tcah osrhiay sepd ntora e o ing a vawV “erae we wext doeml o colioul a w d n d epra io e werweers f p are oioce ludes hs enlhis t e ofce t Wher E lie tsu s, t e enine façuinin hiush a g p b er l g t every sect ber eeps to coem es tb s hl wn o gaderos. Iun der osond vt thue ty. Ss defe unp n d bhe dcere yos. Iun e th t em in Ddlubflin bade oh e o drudgn mohice in s tes t nfs. Thil batinig scremmls epo etp re morn, iamincd g e owerts. Bjn ty Sqo ot der h sucller vlti-dik cink. Floar eucer o orafer iy dif ro-ceiu ace Jigsd h rs lo fb bco insure. H ere a neouwe tooe oka. I tund n t tu er er s r tves tscipf th e nage tn thnd haro u qo or’s ocd the, tglttce Daublin Be nad C h err be di’Th, teumher Swasnn vo teat molde 10 olin Ule campeirn t n w f m m Ep wo m hs ptire façes in tsf tace J e ma f coy o inin . co bmmloa en on my pare dka. I tn d ny, vhou der rn co’e di, th ly k ade ohrade o hhn a f w draun derin The Swann ts lo l omp he dirit t, tini, a n etly m a th ss epuc, a onymous hhon a f w draenj jns lobg sle sure sways m uosrhroe cero e era tpidd ooliug c’ve bluin a ok: ain hf asd pppressi ac legh. This in loh atnioer b a iooemae w thrs o r-esse rs s ua io ee f hpesu le aahor ptirere vacue f t te b res lfsi acltlegh. This s tluor an , yin d r r inl dra, iitd dum. Acrn inesd t h an o liq. Thi h lenpidd olig c’e be ided rlysblses. tterp he binr itse o h andp . d s euor ahn , yt bein prt hid, temae w ar aibers. Thi d te a gurlce a an a The smos ouv liqhta s, t e en wal wa t h lcree are ms o n voaming, Mowatn ty St noare o mucln coih lony blin bu lin t, mcarat sspes t e acava e a ng sleg a mahyh d y) c ypg p u rner o oru W Hlio linlk aerotaue tiwh a ue opp ace ace inaf peep y afe miafh ‘fe pauenif drals, shy’. Thi h pts “sign ur drinker, your s et oen louinnlioace fe oext I coos mi caep pvrenace – Moerrd ‘edira ty’o awa arawalion o t a m ar ounf g ’acquer d wo per y mg thaat €4.70, pretty reaoa erabaohtext I cot ld ghokohd in lrassroorar ro p o o er tdress h rh a da ur hly (ah, wi h riged by ts sure rahe bagsk o s pverh ot, ps h ndr ps unm braade) tlesant? Wpr p l sour e ic es t o co io a oreri h a nos tensrgt in quiet coay sreose H ralrne, wal. Onl h t into cor e fbj wgerawae w r a din ernak ithad ol esca l hor prd in p or ge l li its avian names pa eor it mlataratn ad, ha’eur pwartsid loco .d lav at co ld r ody wnens co soureeh, in H e M&H coumdg o etv weeryt hcaos lness co ang mln hlinrrraorts tue woyhd proe ware tlh t inn dtpr tos raen i rt t co ley logw-bh, wiet uh tt a toopm.l ade) wa t esv’ logas jc s hrals hls mig e se being the wnetctiot, enn sn ta ceietrohorep t t sos te t rep avian coun as a b’ras fritkinlesin a cold Bs atre baru os me oroue imu l f whrat H b y gure o kl e etro Rer (a siwc d the bl b’epruinneso f t raet. he t o er Thhy hua e tuhr s od ie pe ace u and nigh law h aded t t a g a rhesar p’d ot lie lzen intno a rn g t cr f hls deeor y cen iroir ossle o,f lpw Dn t uinna icturd dis oetl sents the little wnbbed fei e dro g ninetd Im lesle st aroo swlo a peet af mly heme chy exp but it’d bHumphrey’stit d h ahr merb, thh, slic desik d. Th, c the dirt Humphrtey’sgs an aesp e liky it a y ay st, t earac ere baf th r The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 y work.ext I coace no ht expl v lhhd in lveler na u perenin d mwit d n e mo endeli m b thin t ma art aano o eeaerhs imrom a n was immeyure p etzel th tc loiohl ay’u o une sowys f lln im n saappast. ohirle drar ptros ll spf p un r m o unr hr aeps uneawa o eryterranyt, pled-in q r rr e wm b e notebsiace fhing wi h a r ce her dod. T a cressed in p n ohilacyet l e wg ao ov Fn e oaaps t o we wrke f y a fallbe t acmaat n e k by’ o gradh the lim ligrhne tsf cl Cr in ets to tcre s atgle th d w co hmt inphp Donteite tq bs in , wad io aracacoraciirn d scrcen y a t pr iog est y (se ir d a f w er e leocreeinhe n s €4.90) lin r mir a tur e ne or o o lotager an eg o f hs deh coesem d p shirkintren imh th e i oclefawe wawat rs I p ws, what I cri eesll sue im t Hon mg h s dold resi two sides: i ann thy aicag Gisapd idel Rtehws a p , S q gte A h ic ts sd deret d M ky lickd phes g o h ve so er ps o w Yead e citle (t s mum k e 19 is wam wlcos N w Ycorah e hif thlega th btos eresoorokm in The Ct l os a pla Cl , Seriallysspes mce tlhl e wa y dier nd in size ae wa At ugwnail b’ ur e a situr Sbs Aepf pler mane pashpce she sigyemt’rs t er se o iuiet a d a l kp wa s efurbed ydnh’e y w aacs. It m o btasaen imles. Hit o o cot n wa p f, Th Ths h ucof p rah uese M&H cotcikt liite t der o d v t hi g oing an s, m, s et dr inllk a t uos t n st tht wr a tl ay’usats, t n trt oon marl ctae war pre desirroer es a w t oond tbsintds in ima int p y v e te werrgs ougo coeiool, m le nr aatiosube k by’r t e unhauepd suoost erion wh y tewans ts o bhd ld ih co hmttyint ngsh a r t pn h e bin h e liaqnsh puntorn, unmtreto pue wi ch oafe poe to plnet y a meamhit cog ael broun . Twtsreiust th reparao tu ine ina em tvah nfts o old r y co p y expece t la e noene s ph n tuse h n, doedarn tblle mls) le a t is on, drerhague e no g o e te waes to bd o d tn oly h razy Jenusyoles le saimll-lif on t o ph mor cav e t, prevt d ba losur e a. T e cenld curacorat tl lie s tlo ls, t walde 10 o e de ovevaretndie Color examt . W ratene wio ded o liq tet s n Ry tudeetdo r ae w arag , o es o source aus sla e Ls was peo ’sh r f f bigue re Hg prphr y’ahiy a biothi lh-aeir c atno ba d retdetcoloin ht . tg alinr deaclo d v e o y sps un ln sure ways mey’hrhr hhoe tina o r h suclitvi-dile s lee o R aeg oo e maro l axoe bks r c mtrh l s a brtking tptus a le an te ned thouble n t et fr t hklinfetcr On coh t y ay cen d tahe bus b’m a nice co p en de e ureca en on my par o et gg s o t os. Aencao mansy g se y in . H y ktniohetn t ra, h s lef t ouglat was. y wn d idecologd. Cicih ly o ly admira p shirkintg o d oe Cy . A hf exhf sy mae wa’ f in ya c initia oand dereteng oihre t sigtt othold (esp sider a t as ie cre n n oets g scrns a butskinooe o s iros d thpq er e naes-ig srmer us e di, tlohern t arnts oion sa eminatreoo en tu e soue erocr ly rAn msinmd M ke (tw s mevanurceeae s eqdh e ah co , desicco-s nen imlog n ic licenleso”. Thn esae o e e - in size a d ideh le azzle n. C e e-smokle, Dr Wwy vah in t h df thn kinhir s Gkle tf razzleve lf tshoe dirtion l Dia r s s a mp h ll t o repe samt sus saats awso pf Joyumni) at tbs sic - ore sypg tr us s an yetd pnciumping ts casn bslert erir mka e t e va ue o t oht legosihimising in size ah ‘fe wa. Thiif a clthy’. Thi t, faes s t ea r space in tle i t swer h, in Ht a y wuiet ane liuirld a let u an ead af pethinie wa s cooas o ougsicia e merep kh, Dr an hi va e f nrate weyt e lea fen t nuhe t our e lin es t upuio o og pa s smle wiiol by definitio h ues d th binine ther t’her es, w os mi c lieual pment bue rn htlesf t? W s sure y a mk ot inlin - ts t .e weyo n t be fold ih e yat providing a hlep pavrenace – Mor a gdirty’ tior s. Th en lo e ya whatguer desig h moar caag thr t ab gue r l um n m e wayth y y jg oi aoennd v warhip tlhias deftlins. St g ioh t flems t igts aewyte li g a our je r de og a bs, its h d or a so bert mt s jtaat wltn suc f penaosurhtiosin l waacace in te watsat, a ln ant los n m a wa t esvt wathrs thbaso ug lied q, q imi n malik, I k les’ logo b ace tlt s t em osaas t hOft hin tio e b aen s pcco ptd a ci t co s. It mh s jt wa k e va ru t, fa e oy wer g bOfd I r ag a s curt t ts miarrokiead t gue an t aspu a h a ts “sigr t o ps so ond t p sf va e re eiliby na int er-te calinh . Th d adereww Dotbh d a’m drink s o a amine , Maenetacjoe sete dot r oo e per v loauw generaeooe p ermrg oeuy, vus erb tcr e ade o ty b s froun h t oace im, deks, o s r aklraxhodo Rbuwaium. Ans not w a ac leght. This islra enien wa pngs o ini e b ls h io t I oaoeeerds (€5.30 a uo tpidd oli e deco unnine vac r (a sd tctioen oe delicio t lebsn, w l d e f On colle t se on in ea ae oodies s kable saimlol-lif tnes y aes y hlesy (st I crod throunares n t ee ucer o nudderles vire b r ava m bse tg eti r aesrwes s dka. I t dd ny Sher ie er prt a’ms ftludderi tet g t aes in We ld the dosp e ahrs it mn vtht sos t eun, w m e enteaded teho g cold By (st I cr d throun po v p e etvd th t’ p ci Rlinw cit nug r dere fr af qsi s eadereus saniowi a o vn, is locam h ry, blyssoes. ’varl lees oc ioh ur pur sper ce a, y hng c’vd remluinul drait al s tesun u y co ldies s h bOft ht waimg a s cur ga dinoerrnake a sit, phr a gler (aligadn &d ar t wa brah a f pdinat. Llg tie overeed a ciudget bts hapodieninm b ent loiothhty’uld h her f d in ltd tl shho pet h ofd in pt in o coepimahilneard G is a lolng’be or at inseer fe lin aa , so we w cse f ave tto prt s Ggenih lelhin ye iong t dra erg o s? One t e meef h voyrdh e s o e Pimm icol et gt m t n o k Ul e 19 is wea s ay t w i a t m y b fl , h s left t h mher t t, ves s raokd oo reacea h k es n r w a in ue ohe face their lead f o wremin er no wur S um r a bsson dthet a sythinfgs dotG b l R hing tilt ump, sle he ps o race oe Stage 19 h d lig s miedic. S inninble” w sesisowas y s iwayep ds tio e s each on ande g t trhumy ges n hbe next.’ p a rep s. Ranhcocarest on, w geni There is a pang o o nme tt f in n a ci kd plaerv r A tohetic wcolde s f sha d depnh ng o eee int s –y o fla cei f ks. S epd unhro e b tin f ick uhhit feld ta jl th A Pndy’s face is f d b r (G t at tan ormigoowo ro covt te od th d pts ny captured, he’I pn inquisiti tata, I rheir a er n old fainhiodic . I p r t Th ini in teh’dsts uihaginatop haane b een exhar rtu eeeze hs. y teree t s a er ts y (acae tlv y sur e wa pav s een li icek, a “ wa rat lo er ice gd in a fe simio n k hiinicat enith theresti ov Fks gy lo’s a di d-in qu ur a are noha y a b coonheue vbsl r vn tballosl Crelg a slae g , retd a v omoy a.u n cohe b n a eenlce o l e spevace uam al lieseerin . in r at erA A wtceahrless fad bar (Ge ey’ n t o ues en s co . W ra way t ougie tl t o bte f hin te im d bot a btld tnh urenus onem ert y. g ah the limetligrhe h ts atosr g s r lesg co A vdderie femm a nice co o lo ger anin ush ni iylovrror e wal lledie Ck r t’ pruoses nleby gld ded ourem ax n) bovlevarun hemled tet a f Ge att th ace doder h ts of elacdin e bllls t e r f qu o er . Fittingen, tice tiesit h . Roun op) f ut ito swg n oentp s mfu. Fi daod menina, ttio ine dealicio ts sr brasn any nerra en tla ruio, anatigh thfaces h e b en lituh p htemid lohd lahi it. Wa k, fln aim tet a serheir s v rt- ble a Thhtead p fder a Berp a, ws o h w termouyn less.) A n a enormte f ch cidedly fit for pur os t il, insy hr faceorvt st g a somed or pure ostein concea s I’fm fio lin t mife imunah in t our o er paa rh cockwo pfucea tre drin in to tet a d I g fo f ttinn sdien k dra acdins, t -o pfucethn linhuatn tes c t erg as n e aen hr em o t hir y coio sne.coc t on, wh iro e b d unhhy m lzen inuinnle loacatruy ma toh em i th s h e sficmf Set a c s iw-budget bartero m. thin rom s wyssneesd depls ah e dr o sore y ne etas wrtetcen u e man t urh l s c, des avo “e k tterea tlly lickm in Thte F, Se amp ergs, tet yf ho d ge td in a coitep y coiny t o pu lesvs.) A er a B h a vcrti ale oef tir spera enust trtn un less.) As I fer an en… a dr k s ‘S s at the basn t si h da ummier Sero co ur o er ice gcognntee, S pnd tin id loenking A ropicationsu o h wn fs a di h of mini tts namf t ker ficr a f ers li ies th deal af er tin ly sw et t , dr nw intus h gee I h e to s it wou s, b t me to get inbto t e ks. A r hir aes hs is on thhn linoineste crref iemier s a miatte walt ty loh onind in h ese crpace im, det wa s I p ” Ct hiiohes ope ssatm us slaatts anm in Thet e, Dri. Q e te enh et colnn re io e cr Gdr l Rad f Moar aring toh le hasovain y td chork. Thi skace in th m tarasn antthaas migs ct legies imimiusa hi licio . Thor y neini in thurt s scenfo agosre lilli. orno-s k bt ihind i h ts up s since tin f h g eo onreld tway r etic t aeninam natur led d aer a bha p o a rhaes implies thrne e e inkesnt o si-abss (€5.30 attening t da se -v nudder g t e s cond td the dole tzen ins, diops. Mhr ve ols do’d tr td dipcr Rs area doen Pe y’s face is f mf uort in r irlesig’ hictts rs oe Re y, b utro p’ mancaeounes d I’m lesrac an ld tiern twhht b va t u , th e draosi n s co e sps then w- p hicv . R in rh oevses a urad ev f bnd bo t a bloslkanion m pa es o tpt t tin p Sice t ht f €20 I coy tun sie cd the p strbjen g o u b g conle olceavpreseasov a d rede s o i pange oanu Dset p te t the mer dinnahkli nogart ed oes depics aniourre otvhne and un une d debad i ssiderhd ooths sy-hour thI p ump, sf bte the m f g nisi ey sw et tf rhraun-osion. I won ts (fr b t e ‘ hio s R at un-osion. I wtony after drai the men sit co y thn ine th s e tlo s rn s patio es ime I cha t te t exper sun v oll sh in st viu or una e y ptd thb aste is sf thhe Pa a , i v w s a smtle oop oat tkt ir t o swekesn pe ae sp o out tee oav fbs me men openlniol of gin as Rennie immy o a ea t woe h purgers, a d satnee oota se eg tice wle t, bits ttaste is sp fhi h c khe roost gus vf thrces mci l, bng ig t nor w, on a nige over owprd po the p ldn’ni here I ht want t av acoli ht d m. we l a surrepour ou er pennie immh di tate in thi s (w per’m f tho suld cosr mius gers, ag a infaced cll aoptpa, ws oup o e t aret intrars a f tt- e g su er a es oUis be lookoing forward to an encore.a erffl g tes on a pretvato e con b blet les time I chautt re thick ws lite terh) fallee u a snal d et tarhiberyepperto s s agg well a ro m pie. It w et into tn’t fin di ts y after draining t ious Rennie imme experienillce w ast amtill re-yokhg t e roost gustv uisl the necese tsarhy susk wio G h th visit co y tt bh he time I cr a inces m This is a truly mun an v y w a o exll th e y rned al ne-y u-die li d o t f r sm kds and ch and rich, shot through with the fresh heat of jalapeños and balanced with gouts of cooling sour cream. The accompanying cornbread is the best I’ve had outside its native country. If it’s not on the menu you should petition for it. The dish that many will gravitate to is, of course, the fried chicken. They would be right to do so. Right now it is hands down the best in town. Perfectly moist thigh meat encased in a salty, spicy coating. The biscuit is perfect, the corn slaw more than an afterthought. Go get it. Their banana split is a dessert to put a smile on your face as it puts a notch on your belt. At least two of our party are instantly infantilised. Service is charming throughout and it’s immediately apparent that the floor manager runs a tight ship. The food here describes itself modestly but it could justify much bolder claims. I’d give a joint of my right pinkie for a restaurant of such quality in my manor. For the lucky denizens of D7, this is all the neighbourhood restaurant they will ever need. The rest of us will be hard pressed to find a better reason to cross the river. This is a North Star to follow. n ble work drinks. T ers, or just hunker s pizzar p urgers, ahe balse of thdane batr f.lavour in-D b This is a tr y mune g ae bar frlse o t p a s lan sia tro aepperf-t the sy u y ends at t er tg y swe s, we wouo he-mi l bar bit ts of rnsgresell. d it l lf o wou s, b This is a truteaks. A r n alny wh t-to-e in-Dublin-beforsulina es o , iuits tth d s s oir h c u-die listrn a picles, but it prov nve necessa y sgustic ttenance.s (€5.40), which ar I stepy in t , o e looks good in a functional way. The ‘interesting’ beers on tap have been exhausted by the thirsty horde so we opt for a brace of gelid Budvar bottles and drink them outside with gassy relish. Life is good. It should be noted also that the Pav has long been a destination for the bag ‘o cans cognoscenti and the operators will now accommodate this fine tradition. After a couple more rounds we fork out a tenner for a four-pack of Tyskie and it goes down just fine. As college opens its gates ever wider to tourists (flocking to see ‘the Star Wars library’) and civilians (with the heinous ‘Summer Series’ of concerts) it’s possible that the Pav will come to feel just that bit less special, but right now, on a night like this, we wouldn’t want to be anywhere else. en lled tm ayhm ae in et.l ehggry, tbe t ts of e tl higho tradt trde h y cost t . Fip cnioe f houa t s st a oa hate o o ca l ce on… a drhkk oh, I dee.cide tow acco” wall, the rest of the space dotted with tables that gradually thin the closer one gets to the stage. Despite the facelift, the space has retained an unshowy, lived-in quality. In keeping with the easter theme many surfaces have been littered with Kinder eggs, their associated playthings dotting the venue. I pick up a replica jeep dwarfed by my thumb. Spinning its wheels the parallels to the space are obvious, both small yet perfectly formed, decidedly fit for purpose. Bravo, Stage 19, this patron will most certainly at co ld b y-ilur ogaeir loft a tterv l imotinldld a. Ra t er eT ayskle couc t gko y co co with these criticisms since the wholly phoned in nature of what Humphrey’s does implies the management’s comfort in resigning themselves to a position on the second tier, removed from both the limelight and its associated scrutiny. For many, they are simply a fallback when Smyth’s is full, and there is nothing particularly wrong with that. Frankly, despite their shortcomings, and depending on the intensity of one’s misanthropy; it’s probably still the best of a bad bunch in the locality. Faint praise indeed. ug t re itinnleft in tethrh fue or €14 – ibkblepelicls lilke a haprpef a ou o d oin g anles aend dravinon mk thy ld r u bios €4.90) lin ey metrt y coill the b ehind it? Mo h Kgs, ae oeao gos Nly dieco e int el siaythinfgs do - s wag t gs, a d fgs, t dino e signa urf g wder egh Kin i h ter . y sur e. lan pit e Big Buc s w lco din n rn t , t d p bles. Hff S s o h es o oair tyminage 19 i lp oeneir asst f rac en t appy-htou co drahios? On y o enoae way td chahn t a e terep dwa fy-h h Ale M&H co kv snlky) refurbtedheir s ort- dble ld fa Ulinder eg s o g ow Ye ryk. Thiensity o yth’s a di h of minie iastt.rlo e rons ser dinnn , I rs o ing co ceainfaced cd, dea a a s ol Crhich pusmistlraiyldertinte o , an a uesque ime ppruosps. Me sa s nger an eglios staa t pld ale pa y otl s thare f b em one’ pe va ue e couugs prtside wt th ga es fles ihsy r dli h. o bt lder t er tnthaani; its prur hur ls t e inraes e dra’t lis goumht se locld bts w letert p. Ridy Challelles ide oA w ll sde bakl afy ter to locnion irp’es td dist ni iryes ooe ahe l a g Uatnidinia, which prhtmitn f r th g aat one a o a ing Utt a bl anythinpo unremar e p f sop t exp ooraund d the t p o ld fa welteraclort o, fr n hles loog b en a destuot toty braoa s t o er a Bd a co g p ce o p tly m g fhor tbo a rets hiye. Flatinleers t e indehy ollelsrhe P lo t sideo . I. Shphets hider p r n e w e ler waas I pi t; i ’ly lo s e of lum h d n sinning i. F in a ing hoptointt te woin a h in thniic s o pg now t or trgn sur r ses, bioh sm lin tet perf idel nf idehl d, deap e p ace u urm, orf idtyllic pill no colur” ad bu e sppiace a le o vt ina arac er, c a k war our oiio th. Ro-unoses “ l yw e otaineam anp rsecenpy a g a The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com vo, Sup n ohiirticsationo pious, boph smalgl yet per ec y Alftenu. Uuna e yur , booth cockteiar t n ahd g ceny c aying for tsurrhepttittiouhs s ararnsg es inhict e Star W n t ot y’) a hd cid ili s pletace ectioelintienhe hein y ends aya se b hat s ah vegrn lettta t er hl s isiu con ary md t nsg esint wh e I h e t t hizzas, b t md es “ s lid s eat sately aftaer draei shiold boort of their lofcent erworld y. Rat dicgie a nht f e eun n jio agererin avg aroun wounacs wt Hoor The Big Blay c a ta s aninly re ovh prerind debaen hieryes do kardppt fgghio . As co Ueic be loorkoing forward to an encore. t og di si elf bdnklit H nrth s d a coe syrup urtry brat tn e o ane a ks. A rllass. Wos. Wa stice wlu, illg petcoir seud looktinlg A ro o t’ of colt t gu uch ably tas edrd ft e, oniou, b n, by mo, ss. Wo ur m pi ie. It won’t f h t sind itsed legretaceble ured wi lin-befe i p f e-yuou-die li tasnicles, bavt i e rov tuinn .es u l of gpsosition to t sioll n. I wonder what i es as o ld cost me to gond sly muna tate in this p a I st y in td fin e t m den fer garden for two p position to t llas d if thlf on a ch t y dit of t de ee megt i t-t a ct wuno ’t finv ts e ev n and its responsibility to both sell lasagne an chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday a Saturday clearly rank highly on the manage ment’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain a lot of space herte. Suffice to say that one ofld c o absorbtiof ‘it’s grand, shat f o masonaoo hats. r of alIl n’s unpretentioo a t cessa y sus our away elif less pos egu arnd delicio n I ’y dit o e s unpretend o I st y in the b er gan e ort r b rrns isn o s trutt ur urin te mea s rays. All th le, t , much likt-A g hs, Mo pints an f the eio ks td reaskoquisite y , s anl of my d ure.’t demak e f be wl, the definiti us ans so ex nabled she defini e ne In a neigd fn anhbourh.s. Ad that ce weee e t-Arden f r t cGa ry’s id all just seems a little offeeason than it is possibll as a mouthf linl. Ou le ur b to do so hich ine Kludes two b o in o k rtos, comest en out acts m os, comes to €104, exc uding t e mos-lo king Thi thd t ryo ve a unanoidad to add to the ch wo his dubious distincff - e sewhere,” he saes Rtion alone assurl down in my concr ody’ys. “On s position within the responsibility to be all things to all men whe they operate in relative geographical isolatio all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Du that makes you feel like you’re having a pint Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps t curious unDublin quality is the very thing th attracts much of their clientele. Having rece visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs wo be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style ba restaurant – useful for both family dining an unavoidable work drinks. This dubious disti tion alone assures Rody’s position within th Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW odys is almost akin to till a dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D because they have damn bad cocktails. e io u ator y o sn e t enancee pizzas. I order dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cocktails. un les, b ot it prakov es anl of m hat can feek’l a lie s sttrtle staidtaid enie b er gar n a or two pints and e benina s rays. Alql the w voured with a 11/11/2015 10:08l a little s11/11/2015 10:08 aco u nd mushoints and ar flags rays. At- uisit h esses m asoint wine, oniouo b y mou er g aroacon ah wa uls in l n, be tnyn ae ao swp ane e seus dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D because they have damn bad cocktails. obablay tast he b, b n, by mo th was in n - y en s o ginhta o t f idetnlie in t as p ace ts) i sot’iou ons, two pucer l s, I rete ff tk ouet a senn k, a “ g dissipa d uc erye e pkarcdt wts sn, w le g a oune nd fe coy siderh s t hucim rw lds pation antable” wh o t un amesc kea t oo Guinnerith thess (€5.40), w y t kaeniwo, biny. Rather th was in rav n… a dr hie e s o ors wm t cer iolur oo en te isine totp oescinkina , i erfffe iers li ieso a g it.er a coupacttle es depbletin d a -pacioer r llegde en meeg ovor lts like a h rg if hs del higher be licrts winin . We parar . wronther dinnh clt. Fraaury ldr Theh a e oicea r b ints up en ider €14 – i ocihaaef gslid Budva A g w h tsh, w ineereadiuree p etzelar ve sor y-int cou e rsats, thusan t reoaf gusn imaoginootaas nrag tep g wg p s.ticiku a ey t. s cf erots jet st likt. Fraiethlnfaces hly, desd gi e t te b d b lardy hirs sss, siwuc ts ador Th hy hn ate t ace oenrte an s) leotae t e p r e s a lo r at t aceresp l a un nin gt, tn he pace haat m, on ga On colwa p le drlle d the dra’rf t-her ce t in resigth a the decoaet gg co io est o derwd. Atting y p acquerd thooe i y mw pet o R t wa, pin nk tat I oe ahe s nk waet. , r gs orf vah cload oosiltnlhushin tuhmrpaaeer o l , a t t n,p r ne tga dinypnnro unrhoo prett tpy a fao place hlb k whiod a t dras u , lier (a d p tlid r pf so cornesume nl lininer ice gt rhe faceglife sim avepimpairm inen me y n tild gt co owont a y ait uncen er oe l. Th oaars rst-icae seensa e g mor g a taet drrwcaseneer o ara-aak were ‘inrl e o o a oythino, li l w h a v td aln r ade)g p t th tl hl g at a eciran eeenteer oage 19, t s ean gamseayg As you rn toinnys.nfd e tun e whid the tradif the be t o s a ser le er l w d a coatioe bcf th atr kin li l mropo co y - ts fll , b h co kt iar tk lf h e i rom asn imaginae eaayt. hirle drs. he b ls (€9.50 e erh) f nfts. A like its names iceaa a , i er f s a sacttk o looks good in a functional way. The ‘interesti beers on tap have been exhausted by the thirs horde so we opt for a brace of gelid Budvar b tles and drink them outside with gassy relish. Life is good. It should be noted also that the P has long been a destination for the bag ‘o can cognoscenti and the operators will now accom modate this fine tradition. After a couple mo rounds we fork out a tenner for a four-pack o Tyskie and it goes down just fine. As college opens its gates ever wider to tourists (flockin to see ‘the Star Wars library’) and civilians (w the heinous ‘Summer Series’ of concerts) it’s possible that the Pav will come to feel just tha bit less special, but right now, on a night like this, we wouldn’t want to be anywhere else. n , o cealee oiog nousaepra k wa m ae m omttn thvae s romitlder in ior to tt ttes e rold rloseir cy ba t awar. Oni, nlld cts ascsociioom, or ew ci ele th in nntu e o ko e wrd th an threy’etext. d pet o in a coln in notepqust adhumpo.ump g of razzledazzle aaoyicinal Dis? Onin fnt intugiks. She ime w sm their lead from Ulysses ideals and character each one bolder than the next.” Curiously, t menu doesn’t list the ingredients of each co tail, instead providing a somewhat bewilder and hyperbolic description of the sensation might expect to endure while drinking it. I plump, stately-ily, for The Big Buck, a “ al afs mies h t. I pick uhi .kbinillicla jey Cwar ef as nayin’hm lesace a e o v hicthy e not eras, ton s ser bea. or d cid thcideldly fif int froary bpw . d it g ne anoth s patron w t, p fus frerhun ioe pro man me ae co a hh wuga fh o o e, ss we b older tph ver e S s brae va ue oles. H terits einh nn wa ur o old ahhr y’ef sple hh e atin esohoet f s rlinity. The drebk, whmle ent Thd. Cinteanpumni) aeqd sic a s c a n e r y licet ep anoe Fe san ro go ag o u h ‘fi sesus rs ne s d qr d ninrrassroos imme waly) rm. sdr t hoot sats “sigonoas imhtio amae on shreha atery ate thtini in t edacecen d t le sig, h y’. Thiln nt ere re M&H cockttti silne waurbkdd f eir le d it?aina yh agf s ese ol um enh ln n r er, t ke ds t. Ae s ets u e ump ime cofues imsur u . Wy, td e wgrn. d whick drales that g t d, hi Thico nerde iic g t”. Th s ca W t. We; t t. Wiasnhnl ee. la ery es tqh etit I rt likre tlpuhiails cla o st, ae y n e r , q td nd locd l hih th di t l m br sintgio e tavs o y) refim teo “ete Thpt s a cr p rahes c o iuihlts jy (anahi h cof hldim to “t log ic ic siderle-smls an in uimh st te c ps o - er na t em elic p h Moid ligthhtsm e big sh f er uhy ph v yrac er o b wks. S et?se. As t dra s sinensa ye wino e wokesist hiseld tway wan i n a aena dn ins as sl o a uve suir k s o e.u e ampam idesyollcoe erueica. I ll out town s l a der a Bey sizeher otner, cle ghthaared a vu mo .u n ou bt tnd srauin alift af cl h t in , ints o in y bf t sidepace dott d with tables that m thino rine rio prn t’ loheo foso, w e em’ i ded fp-unromding e p h tut rnhueais ciciert in td wd aie ah a ur t h lies t tl Ianagacu do le of lumps. Me an s neg oemse y co hd in Dna e Lonpemo e ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one o d og a r, nmio wgy admirary onns Nlh iney dieco, t e ve ld o etan te Fosur Sinao go g oo t. A t of s tst in t’ f y o ocr tlld rlshe dr k ao se g o s c tine lenvg asresinoohe w in e w s g o a pa ad ptder a Bt id o e sw s was, aen a empe he otatgle h d er unr ohe bpqu s easpside e intioyedien h t b p es s n t whh g now tor olhgn s, tiur r sek drao s w twlef ob ay g g hpaces,u hy p oo. r eruss osu le nnetires fs nr’o e e oythinad vole a sl wemith a vc popr r e bh t hn ga n her f ys f mlh of mini nsh oeg a, thl semtruhh ofe sihl tiote t h reetainutd aynl io t thg aih-a o e o y todies s e sbecorigl-lifld uln sur ttrhse t td f ew ndl war. Thhionmteey len on tidinconn t in a d secen d wa py. Iaf s epep ystg wic n o ew t s tlea ld tierets t The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com ace nlin e so pcc t ophisy centf gme oen stre ln ace tnoe t a p ts j nt lik ac s imm k. Thi icattain su h) f ple oif th di f idy l rmp flilic ph cicrkions.n a p s io h amtill rsulinae ii l co e roos l j st tha g tho suncerretvatou t Hine t p t es depicick wio Gth thps (€5.40), wne p ht like osider d otthd fin er t mund u nd m s Ralian at home, the next you might have a Thaiinsp eir d meal. The third evening you might come out to Nutbutter for a plant-based dinner.” That sounds like a b la ance that I can get behind. en t hnert es in at tionhnt bebs, iacquerwse h or pdrre tr ay le fa lolatchal sprto irse soo o fp aaen I m k, I e ohper y mg tlhartee r sn mjucov ts adorrvwn sue un urn, wa e po ra e is a lo g atgana t tn tinrahq , doetoat gino . Onfy sizely expecr gion, ace noet a cy low-budget bts hp aeninw ect st piace fe lin g annh tiouindinses oet t - v imari y p t tjen t t orh-are a s noesc ne y bs deftl r to ts p d srh tlhis trwace t ,s) leaae t ir h t t l af pld g lag al pmen aue ond wle fhrav rau e y a brior tho t de erm c turou ac s ss adep ts prrs o etg o sienjinpoo hi wn e 19’s enly bag wuc ets adoroy. Str t d v e o es, we e oi t co uts, t n t eap t era a r ra d a d e w n o n ppticvet a cuinied ter (and proo m braw oswaventh a re te bs top al sh a e wite g mg ahops tt fet draig, once tor uson hd curenu ir y co ceild nd o y size Sh so R s s nao vtn uastrikinousepeanion d u iah a’n th Rinp) f ou, be h cllo s. Thier unr hicorh es olf va th o b raio sf mn hl res. I e m p t t Sice tk b g f tebloa e fauo sin o ey –anioe enueanen t g a r e colh auinnbss (€5.30 ader hes es aerd o f bt I or mpkahnle a f thes, eb’ uand . W t der h wnh thwt hi temard in Dtd u io n e ounte emararawedetvin hte o o at y cenaredere fsearm a nice coeble n d th t’ tin Ulld Bf craf e actt oiw ft t adhininosalebe an n. a s u e g co n or (a siwalvl Iler its lf u s eas er. u d Rire façade of the bs tounl f qts tuinnes covt i h ahh d of Gsi-a es ract r d icd o d nh rf va t , prer n ove aiosi-afbs . Ae w n.h a u er o c kiro re, somewo mauesicea. Ipaces, o lesnfbew Dudblin be oer an if timms Gems fr un er v aues m ysesen opar aces,h i n bn tength ledm t , n is tsit ps m licio ce s oug nd pih, in He-smoin e s eqdhpe ah co y a , in the miln w a hum”owa s casWw dge Pimm icooet g es oedea Cotcktayld blemiy admira l e t t a Co httaeh-e y gs a matc n t t at seterd oerach mh t’der es s ra er ht nt th h mo oer es ts asts old alsiderhr gy’h . Q in imra peanh ace im, de t icld atl hrey’d the liuirllie esutdgiane , naotioting t ese ory - y tig srmer us h er e ueica. I llin be oletr tfer anp un er unraaderpblunns was t is oon t d bvrersftnte phpsiadls (ahth a dt leg en I mrpuacktcip wa n t ohl orrnense ce ogn ah t migs tumni) at t. Qe; thiic t of ththc es, w at I wanvt a cot co g to fcintoibs, iluhits’ts hardtre g hlcenlk aden erliy shburbs. I ame og a d a ci y censy cent et urp wa tnbld ije si s to si’t in quiet coasy se s en ra jpr de s oe a ent b a g ov a cceuuiet ang a te fef tecoth wwall-hye.e ed s utse t n atl s t e Hio n et o j hinerio e b t thir t colep pavrenace – Moorad ‘dirth ouot sk thh a dg tto finiep en I mrac in wraasr a w a nsony b ar prsto s ils tg lelee Hio es oe,e ce t n th loumonue tu ca ace lil pb ue j ce wtomy in ktned ooae auc aerioo cey con o u y vermrou phrny’snuc e y draa a sena ly – ot stues atre rou ade otin hys um. A a f th , e hague luded n o hia h bly drace t r o or noa-try a line t e ac loy vemn wuah so ninn b o bvb, ientg osund t.no sined deroazy J hr ronvhioo his ilvt. Str tem a trsn e cefn, unm ererioer” nhicd n k: alg weer’s huerd to sinino y – t interes r desigh sen t s di eo b d was shre dcere y s e int in tt w n w tn move was o vnaoa le 19’sara lelea enur t f m o eep to hi t u y conceiveat ur ce t h bhs. h s or ipree cossinual o ehi g wnf’a anr yt hit tu r g e g h thd bt irn hl r les an ob utse t pnrat n o sh a f the, eve aiondce a unce tceirvtn hl r les g a rfe emphit rn, unm e r hhure th. urrena hi ca loes t tioout f’ e ligadn & er y ten t y a mk ot inlin ta ts t e wo e, tg tnly knowhry m n, i o ialsur or any, vus,y mar e sahyk a match day) can be nothing short of exhausting. Humphrey’s on the other hand, whether it strives to or not, manages to cultivate an absoways m y’ e t s lo her haen, Md od s. Bot tug Ret er ir’h-eak i-dik. Flof ths ham us ah lo cu tt oiw ft y o bso , desicc n bgp hing ses ot of exha sitted b y d b e em in D mo -to-ceilinpes in Waf coidernfn aing Rvecd crat s g oh igsa joaoir examp-erve er es in Wer o oe soaues y a u h us a t olf r exa og oh e ma o ca ompn t t t asitteh-e-a t m ining responsibility to be all things to all men whe they operate in relative geographical isolatio all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Du that makes you feel like you’re having a pint Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps t curious unDublin quality is the very thing th attracts much of their clientele. Having rece visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs wo be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style ba restaurant – useful for both family dining an unavoidable work drinks. This dubious disti tion alone assures Rody’s position within th Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW now wd by tes you fheel liku) are to les of still wa er a d tw o in maccn but N tba tll