TD 1
photo Malcolm McGettigan GASTRO GASTROGASTRO word
s Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick words Aoife McElwain photo Killian Broderick words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan rd how monks are allowed to drink, isn’t k Anton as we approach The Jolly Monk, ly renovated bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I s in you would think drinking would be allowed to drink, isn’t ted or something.’ , isn’t Monk, el. ‘I ld be nks,’ I roach The Jolly Monk, f the Abbey Hotel. ‘I nk drinking would be at? Everybody drinks,’ sion that doesn’t.’ I t’s weird about that? Everybody drinks,’ ‘Name one profession that doesn’t.’ I or a moment. ppose I thought that the monk was one.’ y named a bar after the monk’s drinking, ot,’ he says. ‘Look at the sign!’ A monk oks like Neil Morrissey is holding aloft a in with a smile on his face. Anton pauses manence, of mystery and briefly, fleetingly ting lives, in a place that is at once home home. The cinematic imagination has o play in this, surely, with the instite peo g ore perorarr tablesing at the monk was one.’ r the monk’s drinking, t the sign!’ A monk ssey is holding aloft a his face. Anton pauses ldminders, maybe.’ e alluring about the l bar. The sense of y and briefly, fleetingly ce that is at once home atic imagination has picture of a candle. He will return momentarto recite a poem of his own, printed out in an one.’ king, nk oft a pauses e.’ he f tingly home has nthlish lad s Do t t f the Ther Th y e ps b b ieitsa th, anns atvomcnink anf Rees mlet.hminut wive a wh enere tt yt The Jn tt p bs iy Hibe is, w, be vt betkwlminem is pu nl ien t tfs. Bpt if ytou ide don’t n enormous folder (A2 size m yaa be?) aaso, un unters, a f th of G n o p ormous folder (A2 size maybe?) about how itating it is when people use their phones fice it to say aowenere tt yt The Jn ty e wa y He Ie ah ethelmin lem is pulno pu hen t aee and cl The b lding ththt h dend a y a ravwdie; irton as ic trysts, capers, mur a M o s Dof the Thk Tht h en do craft boer! Iver tiof the famhts a co speinrg in.a r ners ys i h y’re in ottser oh w ts es blishm ht cro ur reusf yt oe bmfo t emind we ae tuaour 20s hvang-lly’s are better ah . I ui inf svy, ar tllougtroit pbab-ley b nings,cGo ioct h hi at akerhit, b tu d eed the s or p I’ioam le fae fvr lo sf tehe Tht L h.ochchin irritating it is w endan wa en t aee at s f p ys i h y’re in otssys’ coeen sseah lg a dely eehougtrzerik is. Once y er te M ps burle co its various guises ova s au he yea s harbverstoesess nice tiaays oe ven th n h flog vkina h o ned affilider ploatio bd the vd , t hin lde w tiinl Tht a sh ker H hd ld b g ber o eef tlihh a staunnin, wera resder in teroaavf Elg oeuuer Streeax. t b ’ t Th e, theret’s to ats after smoking in life, tha in a e ynu e sohte s o y quickly ppy,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp aca le sadn ats. Th i l ret ppy!’ It’s one of thos hir hily t nght: ‘I suepose chiside do ’t n ug v s somy to ag quite aac a piclltlure o b ring on the t t m k Y ’t n enormous folder (A2 size ma by e?) ab th h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp aca le sadn ats. Th ill ret happy!’ It’s one of thos hir hily t seats after smoking in life, tha in a e ynu e sohte s o dle of his t-se exc ean o recit elh cc er side do ’ r ug gio s y ta y to an imicltsh I was tna hes . H e back urn momen art r ads ‘Those a paat s ury o hinf his own, pr . ‘I wiure o his t-shirt reads ‘Those a poem o e frorw t ee preo eino Oceh ia fn adapen io drinking in a h y t eao re oe sense o oiltel bar. Thto , alg o t a ss arue perorat of invnisthdd by t t aays oith n h flowe s atnd al ws s ut how ad w h id pnts oss thhd g in lifp, th in ldmin oe ynur leed t.’h er verp tlight’ in curiliavs Do b f a c irritle. He wi l rt The t s lest s fs Rita Hayw e pewstfled coloaenioroiem s atrue pler rat ohf invnisthdd be ly, with the ins ttoietru- Whdgsyis’ coy ftp ur s ht The Jochenos pe oelos r i. M’ t a sh ps burer un , h tt eThanha e o b llhor over the years housing urder plots and the ar uusing he y otional state of the ontag notes how the iates her anxiety at by recourse to photogenvironment from the dian form; so too the or the death-spasms l mindset that served mfort blanket for the At the bm here wajs prett rand ng (the I’m ariort. e the at otogm the the sms rved r the ost he be grown-up, for whom it seems engagement gs and mortgages are one and two on the life nda. This bar, born old, seems like a good fit them. sider. crue Jolly Monk Middle Abbey eet, Dublin 1 8728188 w.thejollymonk.ie our iament Street, Bar, Dublin 8 ublin.ie 8267 bitter. ey ev chioeal pi fall of the h n th nsibilities at the cost other. This, I suphe hotel bar for the g oini g o t t e coabrble co umin rrarenera msation otlo o y s a g a o goivy e wa e apa John’s pizza boxes on their laps (the chen opens at the start of October, I’m d heckling nearby individuals for variingements on their psychical comfort. tshe prea car ramee ot na Thanh e o b llhoru enio ig a de s f r vadint p ace f y a ra ntoemind whos wer”, s . I plumwatc or a h t xes on their latps (t e h lminw tlohen y a ss tno putt t e au arglbel. Susae I on ag no vtes A f Octl abo vy manages tgsible cehaa eensed b bitte .s girer sa e te t eir sig ex, rble co f the bar a ar h h n o tusina d of E eccausuer Sthb ayers ead et hin t nt waer ext by fve nounny’r minimahl, but w t e peewstlel. Thly fin ht The Jiot y Mrooa evw ts gues tons o t At the b corner ossuminlg bes, werae mig i b h flowants an oawsue nor y ade w hit, b whrit l b , Th in S’ do ththorl s gs ab ieithhinle t s prett s ulit),d t’ eet o . Th nge fa i o’ we bk d h lidf fk s eaet Ths Rgtehad with i t s pr b ’ unny’r minimah t s to vd , t hin lde wt a trickar per a ed aff li u euenm Jo lad oayomcad et hin t nt waer ext ty fve noe Ihy is tt a o s ipeak of (by sramee o cer noeing a little otos ulit), ass a ma , unasse, B y thf t e a orem tfat Ahe b d s d a h n no si t Th n er o l frlor aal hnaaf f a le Old S ero imm rar tn. ‘Bs s lewa ’ oev o s a cots gues-ts an ns a le rnt e f the bcg b o e w oys ot wait d in thte flaa t-lxecausuer Str ax.d rf craft be eggy Ke eop dg i pod coloaenioremceny ev, s yrnpace fey a ra nt rrts an u n t e menu. I p um ep d for auated in the heart th woofu le, unaunter o e s e ven oor lesder in teo hioe a drink and rreelet. umh Bau y a urbon nd holid io Thting h en do craft b g aensinau oager-ing a dee en f k id aiew?mfp ret io f th bnd t ff f d b he b ra ses, sle e wa ey H s overwesest p o co v kta te t aifThl fregeo , w ng individua o er om ering inaturts b den the m vaindiridy elven f lur rro a evor its guests an o o u at p ni le sh a head bf ious con start o e might waner ent.ir o h f Exs saeusuer S w e oth en do craft beer! Ito’ t Th’r minimahl, b i in urroun ne veneral comforv onment f orou valeen y e pf craft b ’n its sene td w kendldnesumber er not nt waer ext by fve noe Ihy i ls ttly tt ut with enod bl ughetw en sweetn incing. We load of f us em eo Fy evest tein ht A g a little otoer hich wae p t y ttas trac g s pe k of (b Therth ps be of td ph toer! Ie o’ hs e Ihy i ls tl a stily b l nced betwe s, arrays ot wano imm dir tn. ‘B’d a h dier (€9) muclect hn o ax.oem waeerb lt doleilutt boor me. It was t le Old Stermate fll peqll feig oour ou ahit ooug. h ues Ab lbl, Th t aut me bes t g ebera l ints ohe fairer sex, f sv b cur suihld ill t, th pt ery) ch ie; iwbamte d wine a . lde v Ph’e I l thopto eo s sfen turv v g on c heads hepa s ews a eay’ul do thobhllo s cthin a bverhsg, but both hath enoughiff of p – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulysses n on Iri f the p b’ horse-racing o e’e wa ethin n imp urinle sadn e S at mak ders, maybehte s o y q neiouickld afyf sitio, unu n om Joly soetcah. l hen p t y g a Balance is an elusive beast. We seek out slices of it in our work, in our personal lives, and in our diets. Over the last decade, for some people the secret lay in a goji berry, kale and nut butter rich lifestyle evangelised by cookbook authors and social media stars, but it appears that the socalled “clean eating” movement has had its day. Nigella Lawson wrote, in 2015, that “food is gasiar v ded mevs c y o rts b r sia avts a g a ouat th s. The back urn me o bo orr- bs is, w p wahen t aee and clah . Its es p ci d ie th innfd befh ps bhura pt . Th t Thcur se Jolaly M pe s a co l o ul. ThlmaanF s tay Mo lp a uraterinse mig oores - t t r psyinhic b t At th I visihr tn. ‘BTc le ttehn ooem wat hia er s s s, oimeso u wp t.o tvs rea cono rs tly b ls a so strangely co v r s v uacen y or a newiew?’ Atio o o tvherwese r t. ‘Ar g ou go bably b r tn. ‘B’s s le hgag cg wait le Old Stanma e a drink and rreelet.ade with Bulld tleit b” urbole its o b ieithhing aensiunny tance of the quotidian form; so too the man with ‘banter’, or the death-spasms nce proud colonial mindset that served ally so well as a comfort blanket for the subjects’ baser sensibilities at the cost uber ext y fve ntoher. This, I sy t e hr.ads h ob whilst rega ur rev y a ra nton asve to o e. e exit, wavingd m rt h e as w helmin le yy* p inla end ewheads h pbex,er s a l iew?’ Atio of fi ks m n the bara a B ecae e tioe pf craft bs s s, h ugatioensiunny. t te rn t t e and wotel bar forr tpeybly a l know some people who can’t wait ur u ation: h l is ther words: Cúán Greene ntin emls engagement op le co kc taiere, ev e Negr les itself as “l p o uuxur r whom it sen n o tsider. ulevardier (€9) made wilinh B lenleit b” urbr n ts oldness is ch was really t r ve , iat’ance f d betw en sweetn incing. We ne’s a spicer,’ Anton suggests. ld man wearing a slightly-too-large crucklace passes by us as we return to our The Ivy styles i to b dose oe grow uxuru us co ura e bar”, suited tgs a veryone is an outsider. n suggests. slightly-too-large crus as we return to our bably all know so lst regalin agenda. This bar, b ro n old, seems like a good fit -trived, it’s also s for t em. fhrantour main courses, w pro a y al d the th e p s moder ’t wa tris tself as “lf molioti-cuo lntin eme tas engag ce rino “ nd mort he woe one a ynd t o on the life g old times”. While its oldness is ariations o sty e mr” uuite r um nd fhinwatc oor agages a rr ld go b w t agld tda. This ba , b r mean that figuratively of course, I was not ally overwhelmed by women. Rathmines has a lot going for it. Not least of all, the array of pubs on offer. The most remarkable thing about the variety of drinking emporia that dot the suburb is the fact that, despite all being spitting distance from one another, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its own. Depending on one’s taste or the particularities of what you’re looking for at any given moment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt for an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? Inexplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s nest of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied imbiberies is primed and ready to step in and fill that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart though, for better or worse, is the breadth of different niches that it aims to occupy. Rody Bolands first opened for business in of variations on th sty e mr” uui, s . I plings ad to “pnd fhing t e woe one a ynd t o on the life o le usct hn ooem waeerhit, butda. This ba , b r BOLAND’S SWILLS Rody Bolands h hder in tar d o ereecahreqdier (€9) mt rega a le t s prett s uhich wae p ranatstiiodve , iat’ance pllevibatbly b bie; it rn aisvks m ne.ed meve exit, waving o ph’ot tel the bee r t. ‘t Aroes h select n t in i e coc opug tt ad by tter. le baen s the N ogs b riy r-ee b e t of variations o style barenuuited to “ped fhing t e world go by o the b acours t Ch og-loe te Quslax. , Ieerhit, buco . W n ar p iocaer nao a n eue o keep br Leto h ten th hin nny t heirig t. Mo; to sit e yy* po ing tce ahe I y snop it eek tphule spot.ledt l ctioars laty o ling ove g t nhrhi ugoeeh a ns is , I’ ffes her anxiets sto s eeaue a av B m ther selection to keep br bit he fair paopyb. Thleir signature cocktail i The I egronio be grow uxur u tself as “l p o n of thhich was rea lupar ve , iat’ance o k ep br bitte eso u vardier (€9) made wilinh B lenleit b” urbr no o n old, seems like a good fit we o ’r minimlal, but with en d blor thhetween sweetn incing. We The Ivy s yto to be git row eap, f lio s co le baen conatstii dly b ls a slor them.o strangely co v b bl Martina Muroray The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. begrudgingly acknowledge that since the trend took hold it is much easier to find genuinely healthier options in the fast food and food-onthe-go landscape, and that has its clear benefits. Nutbutter, which opened in Grand Canal Dock in late March, includes the hashtag #sexyhealthyfood on their Instagram bio. That particular hashtag makes me want to crush a ripe avocado with my bare hands in a hot rage, but they are an Irish-owned company and their interior looks delicious so my interest is piqued. The café is an offshoot of HQ Gastrobar right next door, and it was owner Paddy Hogan who hatched the plan to open this plant-based café. Hogan enlisted the skills of Executive Chef yone is a , wni u h a hn-u fu GASTRO BITESIZE whilst rega , s . I plings ad to “ped m rtg the woe one a ynd t o on the life g o u im . While io o n old, seems like a good fit en, anl know somemee iple who cann I h with a healthy n-up, f r wh m it senl infl The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie made up of around eight starter-sized plates and gely convincing. We ith additional daily specials. watchin gagg t es ar rld go b w Th e pmere’s the option o i eople who cant wa t *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. ’ f a côte de boeuf, which is designed to serve two to three people. The table next to us order it and when I lean over to ask how it is, they’re delighted with their lives. “Perfect hangover cure,” they say, as they melt into a happy meat coma. I’m too excited by the menu to limit myself to 2013 and the Brasserie lost the star in 2014. That incarnation of the restaurant closed its doors in July 2015. Keelan Higgs, who has been at Locks since at least 2013, reopened as Locks 1 Windsor Terrace in September 2015, alongside co-Head Chef Conor O’Dowd. The new Locks is smart-casual; the charmluen ent em. The menu is e ta *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. Tipperary way back in 1870s. For around 50 years, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, fuel, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands Dave Murray last year and the pair started 2018 with a research trip to Los Angeles in January, eating around the town and picking up inspiration. “As a classically trained chef,” Murray tells me, “my first thought was ‘how am I going to cook without butter?’ But it’s been a great opportunity to experiment and to be really creative.” The menu is writ large on the wall behind the service counter and it’s plant-based focussed but not dirty.” In a Vice article the following year, food writer Ruby Tandoh shared her personal story of how the “wellness” movement contributed to her eating disorder. Cases of orthorexia, an intense obsession with eating foods considered to be healthy, became connected to the movement, and critics pointed out the trend’s reliance on exotic and expensive ingredients, as opposed to fresh, local and seasonal. But even the harshest critic may be able to otvy m nag re you goey a sle chg tted bsty tce ahe e auld lad in e resest p o co v kt iat? Plentks miginhgt h s or ert t tg a oun nder in ta m f Elae ss o l, b gs a le thing a (vit pebebs a coly b nin f va , rige t b-sl a p io , arvu wp t.o tvs r venlace I longey the fald lad in ar emo aav Box vaf thr e tioe pf craft bs s s, e ograpt Thff the bea ron r a nor ie’ Atio of fi ks me h es heres seh as The F s ii h en dl es fnd e hven do craft boer! Ie ograup p t.o tve pa ron w t. ‘Ahosunly* po inaa o pu a ee u seleatioin tin uep brew f them. That leav- es McGarry’s, a ni, with a h pf a nd ph tetenthinahe e t n o e coc h , L h-spol ogs,o-n aspd whos wer ort emin o oneeaoe exit, wav s t e Negro f our cit e a simios u gopul t and ewhreads hvpny y a f fp ciil il the N r les io lf as “l a p e mo -tra o go tcGarry’s is neio a ak, aed then sweet con-tstii dly b ls a s fougem.o strang ly co v papha . Thleir sigt agld tg o u im . While its oldness is The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie a few refreshing beverages. The pub itself is spacious with brick walls and plenty of snugs and booths to sink into. It’s usually reliably lively and boasts a diverse clientele. Most notably, it’s home to a Liverpool supporters’ club meaning a sea of red jerseys descend on the pub every match watc oor agages a rr ld go b w eso of being open, and a combination of early positive coverage and the reputation of the Bereen brothers has clearly brought people to their door. It’s full and buzzing, but it also feels like they’ve been here for years, which is down to the experience of the team who’ve gotten Charlotte Quay up and running. This isn’t their first rodeo. Chef Killian Durkin is at the helm in the kitchvo tyt rotsem anuxurem outiinen.a of transformations, as has this restaurant. Back when I was outside looking in, its owners were Claire and Richard Douglas, and had been since the ’80s. Sébastien Masi and his partner Kirsten Batt took over in 2010 and rebranded as Locks Brasserie. In 2013, Head Chef Rory Carville helped steer the team towards receiving a Michelin Star. Carville left the restaurant in the summer of eap, f lio s contin eems engagement o put t e auld lrad iny a l know some people who can’t wait vy styles i t, with a hn-u fu r whom it sental te r um e Is there any such thing as the perfect picnic? Our jury is still out, but Project PICNIC founder Simone Cullen tells us that there are loads of ways to make outdoor dining a real treat. Top tips include sitting on your best blanket, ramping up the glamour with proper plates and cutlery, and adding a bit of sparkle with some bubbles. Above all else, ALWAYS bring your litter home. Cullen recently launched her own classic take on the Irish picnic, promising al fresco indulgence for four or more, to be enjoyed in Dublin’s great outdoors. Featuring produce from Irish food suppliers like Ballymakenny Farm and Clement & Pekoe, the carefully considered bill of fare includes such delights as roast free range whole chicken, fresh hearty salads, snacks, breads, garnishes, desserts and something to sip. Priced from €82, we’re told Project PICNIC feeds four ‘lavishly’. Order via Insta DM by Thursday 4pm for Dublin city centre pick up Fri-Sun. @projectpicnicdub rt a S tuthload of fray soetcah. saunter acros e ograup p to tve pa ron g a look a o goiues Abbl, Th t aut me bes t gsi n y c oager-ing a dee en f k i - ieace fou w no s ks m hne. er s, a tidn adfe v h h nah fl n edi e f vt pubs illde vib , b t bt ke rh of deheb t p bs. R e fairer sex, h aces Ch rlo f fiv ded mend P s, wa tz Pmr per ae o cer noeing a little otos up ure. e do thr nw es teAhos cen s, ae might waif fble Old Stadi te f xc f (b Th t ps b a neble thing a culislt),t es, wos ov wesa t p o co v hings a ou , unaunt, wcshe ar orem tat-enweo h e a drink and r let. u nn otm Jolk o m s Rehd etad with its hd ps the bridg nd cleady bo g v e waiut plde vls Enly t es g aboen to co ur scinlir y bven f e Whdge pled colo enio eme, s noo o s a cots gues-ts and wh ll past MVP and o imm d o d a f the hen peopos D derlad onakmod et ps being a little orap s o ne a mousitio, unloc k of (bar p tt The tt y le u un h a l D k sits acrhotogverlit),, who’s tlr h hin lde whe t eir phonhiny H al the b gt ptr. ‘ot reminded me er t oexts. ‘ t’euminI , Bry t trtrao be hnerio, lon iens aw o taat shinf hi om t e er ee, Bre g bc e a orem tat- n di e f a s o n, pet tood ouat in aneme, son s par-gs,tys i h y’re in otser Whh w led co blishm hs t t creh act-t s f e tdgsys’ comtaany, ahenougtrdenik i malebrble cob umin rrar, wf freso immer a omenutt pu eaher. Its estaanmpbli hmen u- woo. Th o qa ht The Jtiot y Mt plpace for a nw ie; irt ou strooev aua fn ad pen e o d Gár bb s, w tey m naea es t em ile ced’n f svy, as t t creh act--t our taniner ibw mfgs, t ed ao v cen e d Ca f foetcas Recks wigs aith my friene s A f bs i erdend a r ooiuhounn ibe, b t be Igy Th t H re a ld’s Cr etk euh hebsa oh esbaleos Dn a ce a esg re you goey a sle chg tt d bty tce a e e auld lad in w?’ Atio o peno o s w y ev, s ycen lrn r a new aht rtte Qt yy l e exit, waacks a ing f fpen lio he b d ohere h.in r, w bt to tlowao h naae a dr ewsdqay te poem was s o ur rly will cona ures t tsi n l peo k sineshickua py. Their signd eses an ’ae ey ev ’ rt d LED s h e Ihy is tt ah s a surprising i ’h l ter detvy ma t. ‘en t y* po in aaueenst thosie O’Grady’s is currentws q t rather than ost, Th hut m w es t si nv y a sensteoss is the lack of ont worry,’ she ther hip nor trendy. You won’t find Neapolitan pizzas or craft cocktails with cutesy names on the menu. Wings and pitchers of Bavaria are the vibe here. One sunny evening, I decide to nip across for l esndating it is wt et a end eople use taeir phiones t betka es t em is anhin lde wh lde v b , be haut m ween t e t of the famo e y e?) abder out how ad with its h h – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. I am no Joyce scholar and have under my belt two failed attempts at getting all the way to the end of that one in which he wrote about the ‘ineluctible modality of the visible’, but I am struggling to put my finger on the what Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global screens. No c ah t or cra liic. J If you’re interested in food in Dublin, you’ve probably heard of the Bereen Brothers. That’s Marc and Conor, the siblings behind Dublin brunch and dinner stalwart Coppinger Row. Their latest venture, Charlotte Quay, is named after the block of the Grand Canal Dock that houses their restaurant and bar. The spot has previously been home to Mourne fPROJECT PICNIC lo n B r. Thid a ninw mfor ticupa tlight’ in ct c hd atfurfiliara b tutnotm Jao y srame er a l h water f aro am t e Bg abn tes A mf in ni of his t-se exc ean o recit elh cc e ps arut a sh ps burer ee, Bry thtian adf enormous folder (A2 size ma bf the Thkm s Re ges, rare t oem o-e from t eh inted out in an l ys it s NUTBUTTER CITY LIMITS Nutbutter seats after smoking in life, therrace. ‘ h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o mn imp acas ble sadn at t r ads ‘Th reos y occurgio s y ta y to an imicltsh I was tna hes . H e b k urn momentart r ads ‘Those a pat s ury o hinf his own, pr ring on the t t m k Y ’t nour leaed th er verp tlight’ in cy quickly b f a c . ‘I wiure o e w ac race. ‘ our leaed th er verp tlight’ in cursive, under out how b f a c irritledating it is we w l hen people use t eir phones apen io p wahen t aee ah fy’ nd classys’ comtaany, a enoug den tiinlg o happy!’ It’s one of thos hir h n es, ra e tlhat shine from the race. ‘ gio s y ta y to ae. ‘I wli h I was thess. The back of his t-se exc ea g er side do ’ r ug BEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace seats after smoking on the terrace. ‘You’re so h pa py,’ he stops to say to me. ‘I wish I was that happy!’ It’s one of those exchanges, rarely occurring on the tat mak Y ’ur laugh ursive, under ges, rare t oem o-e from t eh inted out in an re in other. Its es pblishm hs t t creh act-erorat of invnisthdd bec e a orem tat- n e you re so ter very quickly GARRY ON McGarry’s SOUND OUT Stage 19 MAKING A HAMES OF IT Mulligan & Haines GOOD SPORT The Pavilion Bar at Trinity College Dublin SADDLE SUP The Horseshoe Bar at The Shelbourne Hotel DRINKING ON CLOUD EIGHT Humphrey’s York Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having operated as a bar since 1661, and the essentially untouched Victorian interior that you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Reilly in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention of its name elicits in many a knowing smile and an assurance that it’s one of the preeminent venues in town for dates that you don’t particularly want anyone you know stumbling across. The root of this association remains something of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association lean towa pu the rough-h The Ra immediate insigha aps th t ha e b day and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. quess onatblery r out the n ure o ing the harsh glar Du ce of tthe s as ers’ portraits, neon signage and old s u s mtles on dis o d wa l hingp up t, of cot pusurse.ople res lo utely avoiding eye contact w tai h each other.ro T king its name f m s at le y, plump Buck Fortuna et ly McGarry’s is home to a perfec ytl the traditional starter/main course approach, so my pal and I order five of the smaller plates to share. Our table is soon stuffed with plates of fish, meat and vegetables, food perfect for sharing and facilitating a catch-up chat. A plate of delicate tuna crudo (€12.50) is flavoured with a touch of orange, and layered with finely diced red and green chilli. A plate of charred broccoli (€8) is served with a delicious roasted almond hummus, and the hen’s egg is a crisp delight on the outside and a molten, runny joy on the inside. Both are front-runners for dinnertime favourites. The Toonsbridge Halloumi (€10) is nicely fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a Dexter beef tartare, served with harissa, bulgar wheat, and blobs of sumac yogurt, all served on lavash (€11), a crispy flatbread thought to have originated in Armenia, but with claims to Persian roots too. It’s a creative little snack with all of the parts working together to make a truly tasty mouthful. We also order a little bowl of 40 36 40 62 ing maître d’/waiter is decked out in jeans and a subtly crisp shirt. It’s a simple way to quickly set the tone; this is more of a relaxed neighbourhood bistro than a Michelin-starred fine dining experience. There’s a lot of dude bros in this restaurant; I spot at least one man-bun in the kitchen. fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. not exclusively so; there are options to add proteins including chicken, turkey, salmon, and beef, all sourced in Ireland. Behind the counter, staff are peeling and chopping butternut squash in the background while the rest of the team assemble heirloom tomato and avo salads (€9.95) and bowls of Rainbow Padthai (€12.95) to order. It’s the jackfruit tacos (€13.95) that win me hph: (01) 537 5767t Book Now! RESTAURANT NEW h d atc s YOU’VE ARRIVED Orwell Road WORDS Conor Stevens PHOTOS Sean Breithaupt A peanuWe caer par sfat the chateaubriand sharing Considering its history of transience, over. Jackfruit is sort of like an ugly mango and it’s blessed with the ability to soak up flavours and retain moisture. The tacos are served with Murray’s delicious cashew nut cream, red wine vinegar pickled onions and avocado tucked into soft white tortillas. Thanks to the vision of interior decorator Jill pig’s tro berutifuked do n t h of smesq s wuiett inith tarrah n (€3), with o an oh I’zy, tentder, pulled-apf tt meat encas d in a cr spefoae, t batter. tteas cool and, ewen t oug o ve ea en a variation oarhis dish a milelion times bi y brll ofhis one tastes y g up t go a e v fresh and perfectly of the season. t butt n’t resi it (€7.50) with s lted perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature caramel, caramelised banana and a chocolate mousse is really well balanced. It could have been far too heavy or far too sweet, but instead it’s just on the right side of decadently delicious. A charred peach and fig dessert with amaretto and vanilla ice cream (€8.50) is lovely, but feels a little too prematurely wintery, as the fruit has been poached in what tastes like the classic booze and spices mix so favoured by Christmas cooks. There may be some bumps to iron out, as L’Estrange of L’Estrange Design, Nutbutter is poised and ready to be ‘grammed. It’s millennial pink meets palm tree print and bamboo light shades; draping succulents hang overhead while leafy fronds cover corner crevasses from their pots; even the cutlery is rose gold. It’s very beautiful, and it elevates the atmosphere of what is essentially a counter service canteen. Poké, proteins bowls and peanut cacao balls could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved would be expected in the early days of a new business, but I don’t experience any on my visit. The staff are friendly and knowledgable, giving good tips on what to order and steering us away from over-ordering (we wanted to try everything), and the room is a pleasant space to be in. We grab a drink at the bar connected to the restaurant after dinner, watch the rain hit Grand Canal Dock, and think about how lovely this veranda and vista would be on a sunny evening. Even in poor weather, it’s still a beautiful, urban view. Our bill, which includes a glass of Montepulciano (€8.75) and a homemade hibiscus syrup with sparkling water drink called the Queen Medbh (€5), comes to a total of €90.75. Charlotte Quay has everything it needs to succeed: a great view, a talented chef, experienced staff leading the charge and an already loyal fanbase. All they need is for Dubliners to get over the psychological barrier of eating off the beaten track. This spot is worth seeking out. board special (€15 extra per person and it’s worth it). We get plates of slowly braised short rib and then a board of pink slices of the tenderloin fillet (aka the chateaubriand), topped with onion rings and golden, fluffy chips on the crubeen croauce pr LOCATION IS QUAY Charlotte Quay The food is a beautiful mix of unfussy and intricate, delivered via a pleasin lg y precise menu. Three courses are €28, with substantial supplements for t e specials. The s arter s ep cial of plump m kac erel (an additional €6) is grilled until Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 bli ts ered and blackened, with charred cucumber, crab meat and blobs of avocado sauce. It’s delicate without being up its own arse. From the regular menu, baby beetroots are served salt-baked with their lovely long roots attac e , sprinkled with m h ticks of apple and blobs of soft goat cheese. There are micro-greens and circular discs e pl t . It looks really pleasant beer garden so I make a beeline for it with my pint in tow. En route, I pass a handful of punters playing pool in the pub’s designated pool area, positioned smack bang between the toilets and the beer garden. Its close proximity to the latter means players can go for a cigarette break mere feet away while still having a front-seat view of the would-be Dennis Taylors slugging it out inside. Handy! I plonk myself down at a repurposed keg where I remain for the evening. The pub is home to a restaurant known as The Joshua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no Mulligan and Haines, the otherwise unnamed English student who stays with Mulligan, this Dame Street bar occupies what was once Sweeney’s Mongrel, what was once Le Cirk, it is about th of the lobb f J tlo t e Horses os, per o e nature oy inoycea Mulligan & Haines is h en mics f e sts t aeir cockesp e t vatail menu c aims. Unlesotio mistaken ab to it. I m ktaae a m f Jaoent l n to e that this windowless spot is not the place for day-drinking. The Ins et ad, th e ier s a smattering of cminte waers avo -id hile high-ceilinged, is moodboards including reproductions of the and it was actually just a mishmash of Pinterest car us omlled room, w e osh whi key bot any teTHE HOME OF well aTHE HOME OFle ision h mun af rel STEP INSIDE The Hideout warming and climate change, the winter months in Dublin would stretch interminably from August to April. As students we would go to any lengths to find shelter anywhere on campus that didn’t house a library. That meant drinking in the bowels of the Buttery Bar, just off Parliament Square. With its groined ceiling and sloppily poured pints of Guinness, it served a purpose and the occasional bout of listeria seemed a fair trade-off for the warmth and keenly priced beverages. It was with the onset of our too brief sumgoal here is not to c a g l h n Dublin thaft mances little dis d opa t esgsinogr th ygtudenloom i it l sive a unnd mo d alf coin , igse I a luires yoy ycean Dublin, Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM I’m told that there’s no pickle brine for my douchey martini but the Negroni that replaces it works like popping a pacifier in a baby’s mouth. Another reason to shut TFU is a steak tartare that comes atop diminutive blue cheese sandwiches which have been steam-warmed. It’s a statement of intent. I’m a big fan of oysters, there’s little to compare with the experience of cold briny bivalves, tasting of oceanic sex, slipping and sliding down your gulliver. I’m a fan of cooked oysters too. Wiley’s Nashville hot oysters (a riff on the furiously hot fried chicken) are reason enough to come here. They are momentarily deep fried before being replaced in their shells with a sauce offering just a suggestion of sting. Sublime. Oyster mushrooms, parmesan fondue on sourdough toast is a pleasant thing to eat but can’t hold a candle to the previous delights. The dish I’d most looked forward to – pork hock, pickles, hot mustard, steamed buns is not on tonight, chef tells me that he’s not quite happy with it and that’s reason enough for me. It’s back on now and I will be back for it. Venison chilli is a deeply involving bowlful, profoundly savoury AVENUE OF DUNVILLE DELIGHTS The Fumbally What does the term ‘neighbourhood restaurant’ mean to you? What do you expect from such a place? Is there a defining set of characteristics or a formal mode of taxonomy? Are there certain menu items that spring to mind? Is dry-aged monkfish in a smoked mussel and caviar sauce one of them? If the answer is ‘yes’ then you may be a resident, or (better yet) a native, of Rathgar, that genteel south Dublin ‘enclave’ of well heeled ‘elites’. This is the cohort – rife with West-Brits and blueshirts, that will be first against the wall when the heroes of our populist-nativist left ride into power. Or rather, they would have been, had those deadly arms caches not been mystically disappeared by one of those fenian-friendly priests who would be periodically wheeled onto the set of The Late Late Show in pre TikTok times. Give our teddy’s head back! This outburst is connected to a triggering event that I’ll get to momentarily. Rody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd Ranelagh is food-rocking right now, with the arrival of two great new culinary outlets on Dunville Avenue. Paul Rooney’s new veg-ture Glas Deli opened its doors just before Easter, bringing with it an incredible array of vegan and vegetarian dishes to enjoy at home, alongside a terrific selection of artisanal produce from some outstanding Irish suppliers. @glas_deli Nutbutter Forbes Street Grand Canal Dock Dublin 2 www.nutbutter.ie Meanwhile, Brother Hubbard marked their ninth birthday by announcing that the latest addition to their culinary band would also be situated on Dunville Avenue. Located just across the road from the Village Butcher, their new enterprise looks set to add a tantalising taste of Eastern promise to the Dublin 6 suburb, with a feast of delicious menus and flavours inspired by cooks such as Yotam Ottolenghi and Sabrina Ghayour. brotherhubbard.ie Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490 Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com A neighbourhood restaurant to me connotes simplicity, utility and maybe even economy. It’s not a night out, the occasion is that you simply can’t be bothered to cook. Maybe it’s different for the good burghers of Rathgar. I should need only to look into my heart as I’m actually from there. Of there perhaps. Well, I was born in a hospital there, now long gone. The downward trajectory continues apace. I make a point of not reading the other critics before I’ve filed my copy on a new restaurant and am in fact increasingly inclined to make it policy not to do so afterwards. Nevertheless, I’m aware by internet osmosis that the place has essentially opened to ovations. I’m considering this in the cab when our guests message to tell us that the table will be delayed by a half hour. 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 Locks 1 Windsor Terrace launch their Christmas lunch menu on Wednesday 2nd December. BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM A SITE FOR GLAD EYES lhile, regu a nr d delicio s, t a t demokds ald chats. eighbourhood that can feek’ anco cern rnin . Th, ae shi n gts. D -s perhe urude h at r m deeplu to adj st The Horseshoe Bar at eqth of our local music The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 The Pavillion Bar t n ati evtcy com act proportions. I feel like I’m vplay behind a cage – Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. JAMESON www.thehideout.ie A SITE FOR GLAD EYES Featuring a dazzling array of things tpo do,ily? Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Harold’s Cross Rd, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W 01 406 6936 places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, ’t tlid ooal of al s untpreten Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 tDublin’s Best B.Y.O.B pool hall. 085-2357664 A SITE FOR GLAD EYES a I stay in the beer garden for two pints and mulliganandhaines.iet a s and prd peppero room pie. It won’t f . Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. side. I c s tru y dit o e McGarry’s 236-238 attention an ingly delicious and comforting t ah t the eater Is it worth crossing the bridge for? Probably of ‘it’s grand, sure.’ Web exclusive content also.y circle of puff pastry Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, Web exclusive content also. Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Locks 1 Windsor Terrace 1 Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8 01-4163655 locksrestaurant.ie Web exclusive content also. ness owned by the Kirwan brothers, the food offering at Nutbutter is best enjoyed when taken outside of the context of “clean eating.” It’s healthy food that tastes good and happens to be mostly plant-based, sometimes raw, and occasionally sprinkled in goji berries. I like Murray’s approach when he explains that he doesn’t think of plantbased food as a lifestyle choice or a restrictive diet. “We want our menu to be accessible to everyone and to add to the choice of what’s on offer elsewhere,” he says. “One night you might eat Italian at home, the next you might have a Thaiinspired meal. The third evening you might come out to Nutbutter for a plant-based dinner.” That sounds like a balance that I can get behind. LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie UNWIND ADVANCED PICOSURE® and rich, shot through with the fresh heat of jalapeños and balanced with gouts of cooling sour cream. The accompanying cornbread is the best I’ve had outside its native country. If it’s not on the menu you should petition for it. The dish that many will gravitate to is, of course, the fried chicken. They would be right to do so. Right now it is hands down the best in town. Perfectly moist thigh meat encased in a salty, spicy coating. The biscuit is perfect, the corn slaw more than an afterthought. Go get it. Their banana split is a dessert to put a smile on your face as it puts a notch on your belt. At least two of our party are instantly infantilised. Service is charming throughout and it’s immediately apparent that the floor manager runs a tight ship. The food here describes itself modestly but it could justify much bolder claims. I’d give a joint of my right pinkie for a restaurant of such quality in my manor. For the lucky denizens of D7, this is all the neighbourhood restaurant they will ever need. The rest of us will be hard pressed to find a better reason to cross the river. This is a North Star to follow. by exhibiting style and substance. In the kitchen, jars of fermented cabbage are on their way to becoming kimchi for the chilli, lime and tamarind rice bowl (€7.50). The bread used for their toast is a deliciously thick wedge of sweet brown bread made for Nutbutter by Lumney’s Bread in Inchicore. Their Nutella-style cacao and hazelnut spread (€3.50 served on toast with banana, bee pollen – I know – and honey) and almond butters are all made by Murray’s team in the kitchen. Similarly to Sprout & Co, the plant-based busiFADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM Aobaba Not the end of the world but not what you want when your booking was for 9.15 on a Wednesday. Orwell Road is the third opening from the Bereen brothers (Charlotte Quay and the late Coppinger Row) and its arrival has clearly been enthusiastically received. I pop my head in the door at around 9.20 and it appears that ours is not the only table running late. A grim-faced woman taps me on the shoulder to inform that “we were here before you”. I tell her I believe her. The very pleasant lady running FOH is calm personified, however, and directs us to the 108 to wait it out, perhaps because of that pub’s similarly informative name. Or maybe because proximity. This is where we meet Josh from Rhode Island. It appears that he’s had about 10 pints of (Martin Mc)Guinness at this point. He’s been exploring his heritage on the premises since 2pm. When I convince him that I’m not English (huh?) he informs us that he’s travelling to Ty-Rone next morning ‘to make donations’, attempting to wink with both eyes at once to make sure we get it. Up the ‘Ra!. I’d ask you to join us for dinner, but, you know. A small, tall, room with just 26 covers or so, the restaurant feels bijou but perfectly proportioned. I imagine there’s just enough room to make a scene or swing a cat. The Dorothy Parker anecdote about the confines of the office she first shared comes to mind – an inch shorter and it would have been adultery. The egg-shell blue walls are buffed to a slick sheen and there are handsome hand-tufted wall panels from celebrated Wexford rug-makers Ceadogán. There’s a short counter with four stools next to the pass if you like to look down on your fellow diners. It feels like a sophisticated They say you shouldn’t mix business with pleasure, but there’s a welcome chance to combine both at Listoke Distillery this summer. Founder Bronagh Conlon has launched an innovative online fundraiser raffling off 5% of the family business. An incredible top prize gives one lucky gin-ner the opportunity to own part of the much-loved distillery, while also acquiring first dibs on tasting Listoke’s everexpanding product range. Second prize is a gin-tastic 10,000, while the third prize-winner receives 5,000 and a case of Listoke products. Hosted by Listoke via competition app Raffall, participants must be aged 18+. Tickets cost £20 stg at raffall.com. listokedistillery.ie and its responsibility to both sell lasagne and chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday and Saturday clearly rank highly on the management’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain lifeless post-Ange uort rib. And isn It’l nur urin tious ag cooks to ma ood so absorbforgets their worries, even tem orar i p An apple tart on a cr sfacebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ of foreign origin as local or ‘typical’. However, ingredients such as sugar, spices, dried citrus, currants and tea (each a product of globalisation) have long been staples in our culinary larder. Despite hailing from distant shores, these provisions ironically form the basis of many of our traditional recipes. Our speckled fruit loaf, known as Bairín Breac or Barmbrack, is an example of that. One could argue that family favourites such as chilli con carne, “spag bol”, chicken tikka masala and even fish and chips are now ingrained within our food identity. These bastardised versions of dishes from foreign cultures are examples of immigration, acculturation and/or imperialism. Clarifying what Irish food is today perhaps requires an assessment of what we eat, not solely what dishes we ate. Who knows, Feijoada might be the next generation’s Tuesday night favourite… I’m often asked who serves the most authentic Irish food? In response to this conundrum, “bia bán” never crossed my mind. Instead, I think of all of the places that I love to eat in Dublin and that form the basis of what Irish food is to me. If you’re lucky enough to get a seat, my favourite lunch in Dublin can be found at Assassination Custard, a small cafe opposite Kevin St. Garda station. While the owners Ken and Gwen responsibility to be all things to all men when they operate in relative geographical isolation, it all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Dublin that makes you feel like you’re having a pint in Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps this curious unDublin quality is the very thing that attracts much of their clientele. Having recently visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs would be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin to a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style bar/ restaurant – useful for both family dining and unavoidable work drinks. This dubious distinction alone assures Rody’s position within the Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW with salt caramel and praline ice cream stays true to its origins while delivering a flair of finesse. The elements in the chocolate tart with stout ice cream and a condensed plum sauce (adding another €4 to the menu) are too intense on their own but work really well as a mouthful. Our bill, which includes two bottles of still water and two macchiatos, comes to €104, excluding tip. This restaurant may have gone through a not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. lot but it’s still a beautiful room over-looking the canal, with really lovely food and service. It doesn’t appear that this team is chasing a Michelin star. Nonetheless, it’s certainly still a treat to eat there. “Irish food” is something many of us struggle to define. Today it’s a marketing buzzword adopted by the food plutocrats and deployed as a marketing tool. The term can be used in a cynical way to attract hordes of tourists and export vast quantities of livestock and their byproducts. At the same time, it makes me think about how the food we eat here has dramatically changed. This leads me to wonder if we can shift the meaning to celebrate our blended heritage. We’ve come a long way from what was once a diet that largely constituted salted meats, tubers and brassicas. That’s before we’ve even touched on “bia bán” – which quite literally translates into “white food” – a term referring to potatoes, milk, butter and grains, all of which formed the mainstay of our diet prior to the 20th century. After that dip into our relatively short food history – its progression blighted by oppression and colonialism – is it accurate to say that the food which we identify as “Irish” today, is in fact the food of yesterday? If we focus solely on the indiginous food of our past (albeit there are many wonderful things about it) we are at risk of ignoring the diverse community and cooking styles in practice in Ireland right now. It might sound contradictory to regard dishes that could b ort o oga the men fu st eringly sweet to the point w erh e I have to slip a u coll of gin and tf rnsgresf-the-mill bar bi adorne bd sigil, shabby though artfies, mul, betf Guinnrays thehe pair low-stakes amiability tht le somethine space ing the strings at Stage 19. This alcoholic, olivetheir snugs, b th b s n From the outside one would even be forgiven for Stage 19’s n w lo k first camle establishm tio h on h r p enll of the b ’s bur er ning relation (€4.80) leaving a liatt colours thg to b . Thee desired. h n e the game, but fill a gap. eer gardens, bo h with a q lit g bet independentt ent uoaviny o ween tess ent tnat ea hing ta p eed to h e tav arwo diffgeo t entrancewa-ys. ship with adjacent music college, BIMM - The pub regu ar y hosting jam assumineg the o ery w e a sin e tg o my atten en rebrandin us with prime reahl estate being l There i oo dooasor sepg coinereh nd a d h ppeated s not. Speas more an auxiffary s n t int v heen a oset of those pu - osedly Considering what ‘Irish food’ means today From tg time – a fache de On ap ide review Hut thhr lat v y sew it wa nce way. As we hinked o e 19, bhroer k inhe moment t t reflecsiocited in the thr aboumpe rey’s, I ki el n lim entra e c under i Rane evious guise a umpgevey’s i acea’ kshta age,siest one’s eye il s imm ev , otr ely dra y a I must admit to a measure of opportunism in my choice, we had been invited to join family at their table in The Saddle Room for dinner - and it seemed like a fitting moment to perform the old two birds, one stone manoeuvre. In theory I would get to the Shelbourne an hour before dinner, belly up to the bar and do my thing. It didn’t quite play like that – two family members were standing sentry in the vestibule when I revolved through the door at about 20 past six. So be it. Walking out of the white early-Summer light h e bar prroves a William Street’s Da ota. A v s a cert hain slick es n ntas in t eir rktai han painereste ting a toue assumed back wall of the bar only d ab “bove tkac ” of The Ra ere my more popiulae o South SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader oac woe perennial red-hairh bowd s tling businessts prlcaagsh pub s e e; Hcen ssem e Ti, the roli B lit e e p ace to loedia e ven sa n tyt h g par d int d depic ion one way or th a s sus- uated pende next do r te doo ho thor. Wg T to realize that there was no such barrier, the siderabl establi Smyth’s; Humphrey’s, for bett td ertised as a “sister seems sb” to t ever be disc shments around the citky cen re routinely rd et to fore lo g-es blishussehd thro t; aunt, ewn quality of the signage oli ers aet of er or for worse, ect y int of what it i g Trader iking in terms of their amenities; t the two public ho s ffu es are essentially identied cal. Both spacio an ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the o tht of a martini gle otsher. Sit e con h rader fed dirost refurblsh rd ed coc efi l hugh the lens o t e mindrded their own sltlylisg camp iga n more t an anything e se. tin aratv g t e two su w no thin h tminalrlyy pr a. Thrg St gaur way t ettugenuts n thild of th ual attir d a s Thblahr with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from ade to s probably a bad ep-co some e snt ty of our situation was quickly made app ra ent as w lgicue ventured WE’RE LOVING…ld gt covrere w-budget b r r closer tb Iced Gems from Hen’s Teeth, limited edition ice creams available in three incredible flavours… Basil & Caramelised White Choc, Black Sesame & Mexican Dulce De Leche, and White Miso & Pecan Crunch. Their makers say they’re ‘criminally delicious’. We’ll happily do the time. hensteethstore.com Cad é? The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie Humphrey’s 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 throwback though. One merely has to cast eye over the respectable selection of craft beers on offer to see that the folks running the show are in-tune to the desires of the modern patron. For the less adventurous pint drinker, your standard Guinness comes in at €4.70, pretty reasonable for a town pint. Like its avian namesake, The Swan is a creature of two sides: its sophisticated, historical bar area being the white, elegant, public portion of its avian counterpart, while the concealed, darker and nigh lawless area down the back represents the little webbed feet going ninety below the water. One might appear more impressive, but it’d be nothing without the other doing the dirty work. are nowag o ptros ll space noet a cy lo f gacquered w pd alnd m tahartini in t d e M&H co.n was imme lochs hy’ue ti ats, tue so o com oo a toopm. dr sess h ls migaandles. Hihs imagorst likle tavts os cld is a long atgane g mg a watrate o their lead from Ulysses ideals and characters – each one bolder than the next.” Curiously, the menu doesn’t list the ingredients of each cocktail, instead providing a somewhat bewildering and hyperbolic description of the sensations you might expect to endure while drinking it. I plump, stately-ily, for The Big Buck, a “wild geni There iicag th am in Th f sh le h lcoin f her ndk d wers? Only o e wa Gr l Rtohoets a pang oge 19 i eaens wsonmg ow Ycoryk. This fla fo d o t. A s cleft in tine ae could r e wosr k ao see. Stage 19 and unpredictable” whiskey concoction, while deal after the sanitary martini. Ray Charles is less.) A per ecd a co pug pecired looking A ropicatio su u or una e yt l , booth cockt iar t the men . Utnrlike its namesa a , i erffers li iesach) fall elf bac s I’fm feelin le o in is f idyllic pmer orn tons.nfts. A e considered othert GIN FOR THE WIN AT LISTOKEt gus iouisl ick wio G h thess (€5.40), which play mpanion sets hier p rons, two puceing Utface opia, wd cap a s of indus wall, the rest of the space dotted with tables that gradually thin the closer one gets to the stage. Despite the facelift, the space has retained an unshowy, lived-in quality. In keeping with the easter theme many surfaces have been littered with Kinder eggs, their associated playthings dotting the venue. I pick up a replica jeep dwarfed by my thumb. Spinning its wheels the parallels to the space are obvious, both small yet perfectly formed, decidedly fit for purpose. Bravo, Stage 19, this patron will most certainly Uis be lookoing forward to an encore.e t o s a serttle w o l shklit Hf t eir lohrth scenft es depicting dissie over owinughut repeas we w e leavwain for thhe dr ld tway A Pdy’s face is f lzen iny girl’ icts neg oni is de . Wem d e a tre drinkinnd I’m less t rgn surprised. R -ounding out tcey hder a Btrid tl Cr le p m and a vcen y ath d it over ice go unr h a veneer of sophisticaan gamely tll Ay lickin ll dray, Ste Four Se tumos Nen reevor, t eah e thnks. She i ts uper on mg hs I put tesist hiin in a coit ple of lpruosps. M no a rn urs oeet yorror e o sweet ag no Th r y nee s s op sted locd l hi s es tio l af p rtichlan trt o o so e behind it? More captured, he’s an inquisitive sort. What cou e ampam o g ps oly ty die o ailny) refurbed ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one n oiro uesque imumes no lot ger a d discr f hl o pulled the drape aside. Fiw to f ttin let. my coing for the four oths staaltl higher by ordert inhich protmisry bes “inra a state o n experienillce with dt amtill rsulina b inv hces me to sng visit cony t e time I cha t e t s p wou s, burgers, aht t e batseaks. A rlegs. Worse , its tas e is sp fi h c khe roos surreptitious Rennie immediately after draining thizzald cost me to get into t a f the g as looks good in a functional way. The ‘interesting’ beers on tap have been exhausted by the thirsty horde so we opt for a brace of gelid Budvar bottles and drink them outside with gassy relish. Life is good. It should be noted also that the Pav has long been a destination for the bag ‘o cans cognoscenti and the operators will now accommodate this fine tradition. After a couple more rounds we fork out a tenner for a four-pack of Tyskie and it goes down just fine. As college opens its gates ever wider to tourists (flocking to see ‘the Star Wars library’) and civilians (with the heinous ‘Summer Series’ of concerts) it’s possible that the Pav will come to feel just that bit less special, but right now, on a night like this, we wouldn’t want to be anywhere else. o erwn fs a di h of minia ur Thh al an absence ostoh eat ace up reermtlou n anything at all wemarked. The barm tion ff dras u rom asn imagined ptast.e pretzels. After dinner, I return and get a serviceable old fashioned for €14 – it feels like a happy-hour with these criticisms since the wholly phoned in nature of what Humphrey’s does implies the management’s comfort in resigning themselves to a position on the second tier, removed from both the limelight and its associated scrutiny. For many, they are simply a fallback when Smyth’s is full, and there is nothing particularly wrong with that. Frankly, despite their shortcomings, and depending on the intensity of one’s misanthropy; it’s probably still the best of a bad bunch in the locality. Faint praise indeed. ing concealed but a blank wall, an a empt to conee orave tar e f charac er, charm, or it ohag y, the thick drap tt The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com y g at one a o f idealith-sed er antion… a drf tkk oh, I decide to co ur” lt und the t p of the b s (€9.50 ek l h e i and debauchery, drunkards s aggworldleriny. Rather, nsists o raun-osion. I wonder what ites as y claims and arpationp g around e syrupy ends a nd s h t state in thir e o s pletaceble ta . g tes on a pretvator y tuinn e pizzas. I order arobably tast d feni in , b t macon anu d musho position to tell , oenioun, by mo th was in n - ind itself on any wh t-to-eatin-Dublin-before-you-die listicles, but it provides the necessary sustenance. This is a truly mundane bar flavoured with a dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cocktails. cat’ h thle lasvin . Thvening’t is so exquisite y seaso en d al s potter in a d o t for smanes anl of my f the ee mea s rays. All the w un hut i In a n d focus. All of the wee s s esses melt 11/11/2015 10:08 11/11/2015 10:08l a littrtle staid and away, much like t e sh lhs, McGarry’s is a sohe gption. nd rea e fskonable, the definition ebsiace fl e with a rhe b , s et dr th ext I co n her fr d in l My companions and I darkened the door of Drury Street’s latest arrival h, t e Rag Trader, at about 6pm on Friday – peak after-work drinkn was m ongs milling PROUDLY SPONSORED BY an td what waomnce, in the mi ssts of Jourcea the, t e Du lin Bread Com anyf the dirity mar- y the re-entering the womb and not in the good way. The Sam Stephenson designed bar protrudes into the cavity of the red-limned space like a brassy tongue and I realise that I want a cocktail. When it comes to cocktails (and most other hings) I’m ss oething of a classici t, favoy ingn time sahty, desicc l mu u e atpidr ’e di ways mlmous hooming, Moentnjo ot toauurteh-eas - bern co ner olinare cam us a t of co ars eprony f thy a u e th nd has loninin Eps tisot r a , y ud r bhoemae wuitrae on inssinua o drerae w oun which mor ca ta co bmmlonly knade o h lti-disci tini, ascreet y musown, is loka. I tund ny S ing Rocks, s scene, smaller venues are routinely shuttering. Neglected spaces that previously flourished due to a lack of interest from ownership are once again taking on the shade of valuable business propositions. The reality that providing a hothouse for a scene that’s small by definition does not a millionaire make is, sadly, not lost on most deed holders. Sure, a new generation of off-kilter venues may a Thae sanoospo ere vacuuinum. Ad ppes e ve aion o haguely in keem es t ith that hist ders. I atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping an rn o y ady wnense ike (tdws mean. Th h orno-sicket g Aepf pld derlicio necionn sy b , hs to reach mere erot er t udderleselviroune ehroun os, di r oabbhe ev a r iog ess, we s. The sou axon) b r (a sd the b of the cr temn th s frroun i attios os it ma tra k gra sss, siwucecets adorrow e, m tly bwa, wa e p corahtion, w co hmt ings a in nd sqos way t ouggs oroem tva , pd o f b dies spra ue k by’ere to be fdeun a d R op) f pet o R vh ci he bnts oe o pange or at tset pre like a sl shoo pett that inato plnesume at tan or rse soo l hont, perhaps unaware that her price t h f €20 I couold red on tbly expec pping as pr n t o t eir closury sized curd redetvin brasn anyonh’ rated ninath, with th diatelrym breeze e signa urte recen u e lin din h-ar un n es ill h fve to cor - ioe on s apaening t a andy, but it llo , oio at I ordered. A so e L n t’ h in rh f vases a arevtnhuso y comrpa ble saimll-lif anes eh f f bigue re Htioo sit in quiet co s iemp atorn, unmotlesth oyte fbject ster lg ab en ieep pl veace – Mor a gdirty’e Ha tlinlack a’ logo bt sas va o o praasenaoons tnns y bs defe unparae 19’ ility. V “b nter” next doepls tg wlo b l a trder olnumenue t wa es t was ji n strugglied q e M&H co, q en I m k, I kt iitlh performanfd Mi. Thlthy’. Thi hsiderumni) anuirt t hi h co t th t of semis d w h a w locatiom ere ineinn b bnf und bhrtn hl ryolesune ernr a d vphrhip tey’s f o hi thie t n s t s enio es oe,e central d b hin he b a o overstate t e va ue o t em in Dupblin becrat sspace Jigsae ac w f mbg ser.ved liqlhde 10 ohd olif Ullysses. Where the two markedly differ is in their atmosphere. That being said, the idea of ascribing a value judgement based on this divergence in ambiance is somewhat thorny. Smyth’s is routinely jammed with well-heeled denizens of this, the leafiest of the leafy suburbs. Its milieu so much a celtic tiger throwback that, for those of us unmoved by affluence ogling, the mere thought of crossing the threshold (especially on a match day) can be nothing short of exhausting. Humphrey’s on the other hand, whether it strives to or not, manages to cultivate an absouot s m ting c’ve br b ating pleasures op o ever y ten t hoaos mis prro ou bgoing pope wu Oftentimes, w Rhe decou ’s not wh f mly hoer unr usaekanionletd uu t t kl e tetro Revwaivarlalec hn oe deliciouasi-a u th its a ld ihhe ya h urt tj r deallopb enmh t f ee wo d ‘ig- h s. It m u atio n imsignpling to find a city centre riget? W s sure y a mk ohi ling ats t t bulrligadn & l h a ts “f p aceurhtion mar pt arrives s e inas lefg oue pro many g it’imm drinkd g cold By (s irt d al in size an us sougwo o es ing t ese o ervap shirkintrength level of s lini . The drink, when s a b’s fritking that I cross e nd td the doles ew De plin be oer anp io ded our in r at er s aedere from a nice co pu e aaturae oafr’o e h aded to t al Indie Cla b’r pr p bs entire place is made out of drawers. That might initially read as hyperbole, a little poetic license being taken on my part to illustrate the fact that, sure, there are more than a few drawers. But no such luck. Floor-to-ceiling on the majority of walls, the entire façade of the bar itself, each and every secluded nook: all drawers. This striking interior design move was obviously conceived with a nod towards intimating a relationship between location’s current incarnation and the haberdashers that would have occupied this space in the past, an attempt at legitimising the same waistcoats and pipe-smoke, Dr. QW Pimms Goodtime Chelsea Cocktail Dispensary aesthetic that someone, somewhere, decreed all new city centre bars must adhere to. On collecting a round of Guinness (€5.30 a ecausy o ay se e H rasn h o t comes to pubs, it’s hardyon o co aoanwn o ua h lems t etith ‘ce space that errs to h t I rward the lilliputian ology. Conicld a”puml hrey’s t as caeqdh sicbse e hot sluch a daatues g of razzledazzle, naotiotanylly admirably in d. A d ide an h, in H e peterom th s there wa’ fopaces, d th n t e s ttio u s eas er ts slaract rndderiches em d in D , wit S strbjen y a bior th uen s h , doorsona e ment is oo oernad vitae o y scas h o oor ge l lies ac haps t o we we ce for prima-ri y eaper (a d proooreer y mwlh t es f q o t . W ratene w n. - uin aree an l. Onls) leaae t ir ro h d. Twtsrud in prep ra rassrn ts h m braade) tinlg s c eri hlts jy (ana ck i hl e wae. laim to “take sposu le n nd th ts er celeb en wh a e space imb es ig srmer use ueica. I et fr t s a match in - hw s was peo n t e y ver e wth se a agnuc e, iy dra’s hard to sincer e a ywa hior thtls. Str tg lleled n ture o eropes in Wa derqo or’der or exampleg s o rpr e coo ss teece aur f ce t ae dorely –en azy J and a at o bfce t e y wuiet and a let ucackp wa s e sase; twe adge nis utterly seamless, they even share a bathroom. Somewhat thrown by this revelation, we sniff out an unclaimed table in corner and begin to fully take in our surroundings. The first thing that strikes you is that the hrn vodcated on t e sh, v sited b t in hsh a f th siesd t ltlegh. This is NO UGLY DUCKLING The Swan Sound PR woman Deirdre Hynds recently made the shift from brand marketing to brand creation, with the launch of a unique new range of evening snack bars designed especially for night owls. Made in Ireland using a number of natural night-time friendly ingredients such as chamomile, L-theanine, and Montmorency Cherry, the accompanying website also features some cool original content ideally suited to evening relaxation. Treat yourself to a soporific Malted Milk and Chocolate bar, then take a deep dive and unwind with guided evening meditations, bedtime stories for grown-ups and sleepy stretchy yoga sequences. Available in your local health food store or premium independent retailer. Unwind stockists so far include Nourish, The Health Store and Restore on Camden Street. unwind.ie