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words Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick wor
ds Aoife McElwain photo Killian Broderick words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan photo Malcolm McGettigan photo Malcolm McGettigan tim ein te D lin Be nad Ct hte tf te facp h t t sit d b im ein e Dlu ade o s lo , M un derin t The Swawnh n a fhw draener hd oan t t asitteh-e-a errn co’e dioneetphr y’ rn, ia o teat bco ing l, the y m s hh n a f w draenj jns lobg sle ure sways m u hrero e bar ss eprony re mosr oo E tisem in Dupte enbirflin bade o PROUDLY SPONSORED BYg teranbeinos teyienlitudss ineimutin en ery en d oloar PROUDLY SPONSORED BY wraas ne a oy srhip tlo e git crd d lue N le GASTROGASTRO nks are allowed to drink, isn’t we approach The Jolly Monk, ed bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I ould think drinking would be ething.’ bout that? Everybody drinks,’ e profession that doesn’t.’ I nt. ught that the monk was one.’ o drink, isn’t Jolly Monk, ey Hotel. ‘I ng would be ey Hotel. ‘I ng would be o drink, isn’t Jolly Monk, ody drinks,’ doesn’t.’ I p the c side do ’ur lf y ib oer v’inr s f l. ‘tIio fuicd a furiliktpo e y e?) abd f those ex os y rhiside do ’nur l d thtuge e spote lder (A2 size mf weird how monks are allowed to drink, isn’t ask Anton as we approach The Jolly Monk, n thl in ldminder bar after the monk’s drinking, ‘Look at the sign!’ A monk ody drinks,’ doesn’t.’ I one o smoking in lifh h inside doour leaed tho mous folder (A2 size ma by e?) ab ring on te, tha in a . ‘Y ’ur le ir idleinp t y qtuickl’ in cy si e, under out how ed bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I ould think drinking would be ething.’ bout that? Everybody drinks,’ e profession that doesn’t.’ I nt. ught that the monk was one.’ bar after the monk’s drinking, ‘Look at the sign!’ A monk happy!’ It’s one o p wa enova e o t n I irf yrmoue inatts anthd aurilioing oo derhy s un h. ’ n n imiclltlure o bI uget’kte spotsligth ott’ in cyfe faofmoug in lif he Thkb. ‘lin, y s weird how monks are allowed to drink, isn’t ’ I ask Anton as we approach The Jolly Monk, e newly renovated bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I ean, as in you would think drinking would be ttops tops tve wa o me a pp aca le sadnrdaatting it i ts ae w ac t one of thf thos hir hily tes, ra il Morrissey is holding aloft a mile on his face. Anton pauses Wh es witltel bar. Tht tce iainle o in a place t a !’ A monk lding aloft a Anton pauses , maybe.’ n a h y t eae oo ene s , at shin ly droe in o’ Iarer’t t’ co f tua eha k opt s t k for a m ment i h ur wm ps t n o , unabsraceh inert re. ‘Ybclina ’gs bahind Dhdiblin t ioe m erk wae oh ur s s t t crtairo-r sob gs,may, ieoypbe?) a ou ring on the terrace. ‘t m k Y ’t n engres, rare tlhat s ur smoking in life, t at make ynt ne srotatte s o y qhen py happy!’ It’s one of hi o f those ext reads ‘Those a poem olh nk was one.’ k’s drinking, mys ery anaeoaune a povem ot a sokae fe an r t eastsye peeinots estht in a cen rt r ads ‘Th e a p w f s are allowed to drink, isn’t e approach The Jolly Monk, bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I ld think drinking would be ing.’ are allowed to drink, isn’t pproach The Jolly Monk, r of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I think drinking would be g.’ n a h’at o y td ab cit h t? Ea er rt reads ‘Those that shine from the t need the spotlight’ in cursive, under a candle. He will return momentara poem of his own, printed out in an ohibited or something.’ ‘What’s weird about that? Everybody drinks,’ says. ‘Name one profession that doesn’t.’ I nk for a moment. ut that? Everybody drinks,’ rofession that doesn’t.’ I !’ A monk lding aloft a Anton pauses s, maybe.’ about the sense of fly, fleetingly hiey noem o ee arnwh t e tssyospter t m o e yali, Cd thh ac lder (A2 size m t wd o os ,’ sheio io’ h th e Min Th h k. Ialed cokinghorlde vs, wiy tbg , betut betka es t s om t ein wien romeop o f th te thirt reange, bseue y occf ded bps b il Morrissey is holding aloft a mile on his face. Anton pauses t m ke y ar o eee Ahbey Ho light’ in c i aited o puite a ure o badnhes t saef r n, as in you w u g a ou ness. Th her er sm mrave, unhe, t t ma e y e n n imiclltlur g a ou ys is. The bd ck ur . Its estaouo a h bg q a p ag q a pp acable s alt thb. H he bl rk urn mg a ou o abs i B d blfci his, surely, with the instituguises over the years housing rink, isn’t lly Monk, Hotel. ‘I would be nk, isn’t y Monk, otel. ‘I ould be drinks,’ n’t.’ I about the sense of fly, fleetingly that? Everybody drinks,’ fession that doesn’t.’ I ’ h t a si ar akin Whtdghea’ te inmuanventy, anemlaugen fioy Mt p e light’ in c t r ho lo holder (A2 size m haty tnihhe bloeltiolk oaaf ths th n . He wle O log v in p ace t ing it ipn o’ h om g o s s ty ta y tp e a p ome le scs t esboapp hgatrte w acon, p e cin osiattahe I t tother f am td s on h a k wa lde whunnhi hiny He I t m aouealeosh an inte in a pl i f it iu ar pt Itcec a esn g oybd Chle sib. ‘ wlings b hinad D blind a’ in ce flsi e, unh im t neNta e od tthnm icd bl iefligly, flethinetat dolf G’ I ma f t a oer side do ’rare, wf fer v e w og nk was one.’ k’s drinking, a myseery ane pro or teasion t’ in cnfoiliin oanor h aakm d etf a c gs a ts osrieny et),, w t t opce he stcoop tio b tuattf tehe Thrames Reaves, ats er R p o If you’re interested in food in Dublin, you’ve probably heard of the Bereen Brothers. That’s Marc and Conor, the siblings behind Dublin brunch and dinner stalwart Coppinger Row. Their latest venture, Charlotte Quay, is named after the block of the Grand Canal Dock that houses their restaurant and bar. The spot has previously been home to Mourne r soacetm ahing’ p paro a efy’ m tr hr y! td of tho O bli hmhlhly Mh acs plh t sa aurgs,t ys. ‘ enormou sfs f h Mfg ou d C oanle e tor, t t maecg b nks are allowed to drink, isn’t we approach The Jolly Monk, seats after smoking in lifh here t t m k Y ’t nour leaed th er verligh h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp aca le sadndats. Th ill ret seats after smoking in life, t t mak Y ’t nour leaed th er very quicklur v gio s y ta y to a . ‘I wi e our b f a cb f a c h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp acacitle sadn ats. Th ill ret t r ads ‘Th e a pat s urf hihinf his own, pr gio s y ta y to an imicltsh I was tna hes . H e b k urn momentarf thos hir hily to re ose t oem o-e from t eh inted out in an ring on te, tha in a . ‘racee ynu e sohte s op tlight’ in cursive, under . ‘I wiure o of his t-se exc ea g of his t-se exc ea g ring on the ter side do ’ r ug a inside do ’ r ug n imicltsh I was tna hes . H e b k urn momentare w ace w ac dle le y e t makt d b t n enf t en es, rare tlhtot s ur- h m t srin’ co tpy to ms t I wiugh I wa-s that a cc t sa e a p gio s y ta y to an imicltsh I was thes . Hfe wn ft laher ’ co tn t y ers t t creh act-- T e av on Bar a I guess it will be tw des-t quieview Hut t hr y’tdep s, I ki y tlor a d do m g t’ gs milelin hind b y s on o er to see te no t an ycouunninor maf b lic desk rgs a uageflecitsio ep raot St b. As w gio s y ta y to a . ‘I wi e our b f a c lpanys its. The bd ck n m pblishm hn. ‘ t creh acts s w fen peoping o t os a hildminders, mayrda e in y qhese fa hsi io, un n e c in a e yoo ld think drinleing wou ill rhThan ps t e wat n im of his t-se exc ealngn o recitre tcit e h wa en th y’ he in ot ero t r ads ‘Th e a pinem o-g or t a s haat o ur of his t-se exc ea gr oiltel bar. Thte s prona d h oap Weht wspo to of hiaaur scs tlraores, ra d awure f iefsle, f Metft g y s ot on, p an h f th ad oerne ex eir So r rotathhat. s at opce hd afe fafili s Do h er s ure o ‘I su ir dle. Ha ht ti bll r Th eur t y ve wao s ea h sep wahten t a s o te m ng on thk’s drms t-svye waaet cretvy manag e p a ded memin der btrr s is the lack ofoy, untutored in the ways of dis- Mullligan & Htines is he in ersin r t s tt dr louxi a y s m Chinese or no. I ha e a soft spot fo. Thor this place.ke ve wa o me a pp aca le sadnhen t wa a t saese a acer sm kts es bli hm h . ‘Y den’ l hhine fs od clae s’ hh t. Ied o t in a eno s NUTBUTTER CITY LIMITS Nutbutter words Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick race. ‘ words Aoife McElwain photo Killian Broderick . ‘I wiure o words Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick e ter side do ’ r en rd thmouotlight’ in cursive, une?) ab ugh er verg it is w racee ynu’ e sohter verlighuicklur v n imicltsh I was tna ht . H e b k ur eople u s t-shir chan o recit e y occ os hir h y to re os y ot s urf hi h ps boopt of inevnistt dd by t ialcchine f m tb der in f a c irnh . H seas wesen peokple un ohaeir p o esur le so ver vere s uite a urinle sadnridtleeating it iaplac Th f thg ay tn e Jur se Jonly M plehs a co - ey nys if t sts aen tug h d cn hlen a s ts esside do li cges, rares fy occninkl s a pal ameer sm ter t n tv, tn, prer, thd o f sliYtg a de’enioh’urehl enormou s a co s, sure yer sm rh g in lif wh o side do h a s’ur sg a dee, sopzer a hpa it os, murts o e o hb lklh f hapaps aue sg o t a sk a e wat of in-eni t m o qay tittu reey ee sohvt t por a new ce yeou sh ooehoeres p d ah er gt oa ae?) absn imky ts rale sadnie Gder in tniadiete f. Ile a drink a d rrtelet. a amle t f hihfoe in oaoeewooerrace hmbs in o r y Thbin. ‘er Rld’o inted o t in an he lack of u p l h wa hy’ e in odgs oe Bomnhf hie thoreir plti y te Theoh g ay occurre ann, p s a cpapnr e I tinog it i hoio en hnhinle ubs t-s’entt p b y tt olos. Onk i t est pe frsibw eohnrle enou y n es As Ennh cites, rae a ple toes t tem is dhws Cr u ‘e cinos ys iur diets. Oft th t traaptp Thlr asady b o b’ v e ext r ads ‘esrut m hbpewpen tg e ta unct’en pn me on s o ed Gáiu cblunn, The Iay ma o t pt Hs ow Thp wa a od a bfy’ en t stoa y f hele, tTh uee olde wt Thd tbr p do t’ de arsnhw t pe ycen ver bs. Rosie Oad in a s nur t whic e wrog: staeot bte erer s a smatooto I mrdke a bnaline fodr ihile high-ceilinge BOLAND’S SWILene tLSy tid bht. Mir en sr h ld fa ei entht that the monk was one.’ r after the monk’s drinking, ook at the sign!’ A monk Morrissey is holding aloft a le on his face. Anton pauses e childminders, maybe.’ quite alluring about the hotel bar. The sense of ystery and briefly, fleetingly a place that is at once home inematic imagination has surely, with the instituy drinks,’ esn’t.’ I orat th urer e a p tger-inf shbe s iraceniv os. Thel vie bwtdetury b-n aislde woe as wie to Mo- y Kem is r in 1592, I waas al re b i ers myseirst M g taelmas term an apd blh fl” mef o hn, pams se e t u idiot,’ he says. ‘Look at the sign!’ A monek vnis nice t fenwia n ad hest wa ered C aa d a bureroe et, wc h erer acrle thin e ts af d a bh ar ak d ceg oeir lle mon’ co intpat in at nte she s o ottiomknu hir ass c Thlg be tce iable Old Soa trh ahina ch, bq t beaeth htrtt sio rs ha’lesinglid ys er Thnan hina t h o er extens pg ay as d s t h Hay W u piosfhinud colol m dipor e oelos r i The t ere bs t-s. ent caer o iuminlunet Sef thnosen that the monk was one.’ fter the monk’s drinking, k at the sign!’ A monk g t of in-vni ole y fe a ur g apoue a pt Ay’nen f k iy’ vacu’ Atio of fmnoht puoevs, w a og inghe e instite peosthdd by tl oacavtfie a odind in t s o e pnae bneref Et hea, Bhus had iats dk ilicesmfnf of puguteg an oerlit),esoma ue hin . Their sign d a tes over tfeips to raybrbver ee. ‘ouicltilok of trhhntl s. Th y’w n aatsn m’ coint, taryereax. apoas, murmernlots a ouesn om Jes tle ext reramee o er noeinhaosfy’t bhoer! Irasin o e tbli d r len’et.ug den tnat og in lifp, t int m g lvhder bs iao ppce hi der p le u h osearg in.a h. y ee t wags aiccurd pe p d b bvs u m na e patrnaos a surlearve to our motto to Prove all things (and) thdgnd sui bn tsorac n orao rese o caer naeinrg a litrale otov tli th hy th h n a en io orat ohain ine cole co f t ads ‘w on adienays i der in tar d of Ele a dr k and ren es maoner en P s ft t Iet’tin nt wam l fd ph o in a bv ve no t h krc a , w t o e inkips be peu ee toes. Thgt Thcreti enormou lpace fw klts gues , une dio t’ ht,iinlg ore perorar t e sig, unafps bley in a g h I waI w ji bo bf f oon te ht’ in c gs, -ts ane t p em ic ime w rt,tet’ Ie t pnhino n t er sheaowael the b em oo coen t ro oy a s’ae .ce ase uggins whty!e monon g a o goi.u e wa ea ergur t mf enormoue sp eslder (A2 size m’ioaiom lg yd aturfe for la be, t e Tht Lah.we hin danitatng a little ourn momen arh hh dh a d dinno au y t k o I wtiocbl li s t h ineinin lg a li k uroerlit),os o r ose thsoem o e s owphdg alg obof hirsive be b f a cat to.ur McGarry slices mf e w ap en e thinle ub y t en th fy hip a,’ he ser ’ coomen t plde vib , b t betk s. Th enp ays if bf hien tlhy hea Whly! he thd c dg s onee omps t-sshirt remeg, sernosre ty o nin-or - ir oh t in o oy’ ha tmouio s ur p. ‘ ky s eth I walmn er cad wess. Thhioltl retverh n f the sero o g ve waloeir py t r pf (bac d ethhindle rs folder (A2 size maa urerbversberumin hroaur le stores tpo y qn eruictklya v er’orat of in, untasao t k ure o aed tha .d e ol hs w e t sa y’ae in otssys le. Thio s lo en B t cro ik i t shin gs,rom the august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to g mapa yers, a- enpoacroatrik i ns, meaeyd t.ht’u g it its atetetld biof ouictkely aa s Dt f thhe Thkme exian adfhrementio l older (A2 size mpf int ervs oneeo, Bt ho te acoanges, rare- ny occurt r iads ‘Th e a poem o e ro ’ he s er h , B y thtien adi h I wa h t o sa b f a c ir esi s. Th ill rhet n mle uen h - le h fy’ h obmoos y o s arue perrpray, s aas wt t en peps tn A fte tto mn imranes er aan gs an e b otet vldraog n m’w. sm t o’sagine, I was as a callow undergradua e oo arer sm rsit. g in lif der unoers, a t nad w h i er a ts ayn e uh ks,’’ Iur’f in ewoof his t-s e a orges, rat-re y occ atile s arue perainps be preos od, Bose exc ea emhenh flolig h f th o in ps b le co e siy tg b ’r, wfys o e en ligh diklthhd ts a s arc ank ring in lifnie tdd brkY y in arer smohin mble le con. ‘ l Dh. hk sih nrem e s-ioerweus an urwse, under y tad of fuet o c ug e spot wtuics an aws gui a y ys. ‘Lt h t tiet lrble co es. ‘I w e mig ren ircenatin tio wens aurl Dhock tht h n o a umin h I wa aarpen-ld S oo immo hl d o d ach pspks like Nofe yatio bd thom Je Thumint alg bf a c r tbtatag it inld Chke be fidg k ats esquer Str ho lo hks like Nei’d affi af hi o s loo sf thiry say t Thntheps behine from t er ts estahy ihmhht’ug den p o,neoe famili geavr aio ssaeer thon impcacae oe vys ot wai dleaaesrans werd of Ell Dc t o ein w M loa S ty it en o o al g akes, ralde v s ‘ Therth ura g ouem o - t b tog s u ainanod cn hle in oewavsasy. Its establisohment cre s.eodenow- hw oeAr lomouoy uder ot te exi f the st l Mi s hy ttf may is hg lding a urae mige Gys io immtnad curls athr aws p er stn ohne h a smile o s t-spd t lo k oh olet ah. cim s Re , wp wath in rac bg a ’ t Thd obe I, ths t folder (A2 size maybe?) about how is when people use their phones here’s something quite alluring about the of drinking in a hotel bar. The sense of orrissey is holding aloft a on his face. Anton pauses o inside doolid f (b o Thingth ps b tah itsf G rble coe Tht L d et rameul tl y eligh was one.’ drinking, ears h levni aunher o efcie vlPROJECf’ in cTod p PICNIC t in ai ’ w nn tkothehe Th en rmet ed bou ad woieint a son nbleett maourup s s at tnao urrnhirees, B inasre mig ros norpes t aio wan tserhsyrs n los oe J eaaf hiaeo f the Thce, of m er o eaesar taaonah h n hhurvemenpxg ea o mf insingsurao es, aaee vte aioroop, aen t t Ahe b dih , unn, p o a m tiocs teeotugfet b t hit, bu aan. ‘Bd coawspacny, ah royatg in lifs, t ot ma a yin e s o h s ovhr y q en tyy* pa ing tp.n o to pu erwis ttoete peodg et p lhi okoildminders, mues Abeb s, wo ay m f th e fa and celrassy. Its establishment creden-oie anindl t ren pn mpemindeh ur 20s h’ rad h ld fa urrentyr atwThe th t The Jauy e wale yot n y Hh a pere beg ou g fe faou g tiinl Th h t r ing in lifine t . Tha ht The Joiur l y M er vlpace for its gueseminder y t Idrace f suurn adf y bhatrr k is. Onursivle u s wy!’ It ’ic mou n hiothhad of feir rcit t h oen ts a h hreo oouebnibs. R ht wld lad in ast, hiot th a smile on his face. A t ll en esb , b y mh oes t cenof inl.g tt s e, Bry te faan ad ex,apen io inug ao enI saeh t The Jn t ur l d tb o des fhto es t n orle ch vaderusu m s R , h tt Thee tpos g a e y, ar tauge t hvotbltsf yy btuicd ayfosfurili vs D sm J e inw’oI s ersha e c ldinynt nt puhht hte Iul the be kly a ra y be f t ce a in acae J y Mro ad at iioahlsittle chou o t my lt t ow Th e waee wa aewsoleociin ht The Jf a cit y Maro ae w nin hints eso. Ite o o e t n-o os aone exit, wav hem is h f drbrble co umin r le sem esas ped aies wtew?mfeot emind wh s w, b den, stkerhi-t, b t o g a int aay in tot l cenl ot pur rlotm hvo ay a ralr ibevgs,mfvewnuree coc uo ot etllt cr d coiloa alo r-inci r y evy ptt p h Thace fie sas’ Atrio oemioan , ahncacen pizza boxes on their laps (the s at the start of October, I’m nearby individuals for varion their psychical comfort. Th b llh r a p llher r o pary in te a poem o At a se bkr t b d ate , whhe a r ootot s a colt, b y a ory t n ts o o bve hn r a new ce y m on te.m e ven ttetino immil cotg yer Rlioery TnerBwso, wct e areeero h nbaade wosith Bdhlleit b urb eh uminnlg bs foy es ovesee ser ext lo k f th o ht m h oo d pkb d bhcs u t),t, te p re in ottherist’ compaany, as tlhougth acrt- iob. Mt yts a en e a e corntthsdd b aly tr an ys ot wa f hi n ns ao. I o Oclo hih l y M p inside doe ’lde v lh ohet in ogs anf G ogvts un rt tlol f se g a ou p wotbt oti, I gic ime w raglrdrasadoy bigah lde v t enu e mig tilder (A2 size mf inbnitg’a , B Hay Whrth wwstfo a . Th t Thf a c ptlor t te iy closwents gues oe tn e Jur s s thnheh actw rb, un e, Bpeurae odn ad ten he brd sher’ co emp n owan oe.vt craut ma- es t hivps buy to a f the b Sc h enio ig a dedle. Ht tfe ws a co e tt y ots av ded ms, wd P etk e of hi naer o l frlog baf fran ys i or a nned curlThk . Mt r- lde wli hm e eer ug f t o a kt By as Rl d bhiefl iy, flle s a e powavhatteevenat tootd oet k ahd rn adfemlaet.a, wuitt w th floweug tahiff of p ermkn oced tht a tyseeld tace tly se o Ths R ad winrageso immte tef ineaewssceauary t te a oax.rp v .n di -nd a A monk ng aloft a ton pauses ts a b enm Jf m’k oly soet ah.ingece iat sth i tltsurer ext ble th br minim ad wi u d inots e ug d aliened h a le th s pr ma ve no uming baa h heso immoers ae flaws ap w eaenm Jo l eyers eac d etrs f lder (A2 size m btee?) aaso y t ts a d t load of fkd t h.ar ppt i v h ce hlighg o e pt t btt o a y fderk o a ee o s ipeaot nty mad ethhin oein leo scag yt hinle o ep b l D, bt “fks w h md in lds CrcGad s udious b e, unphba aket w h ts across t– I’ l tao th ag a childe wder bs iyles, in a pe ir o if itt ihe r do tg i n w ioouo d C ory s e pa ron ein n aves M’lit),, woss is ty’ Bac t on’ in cfurtvtn t tf tur per o ls ae ahur. The cin eys iot p” Ik i’erainy b n h’ An me o vt o, rid Gáruns te N ey m n nn in if th bio v t w en f k ire in ottte peo -n ai. Thpf sden t m oe Jn tes Ald i de wa f. H a aes m te yp le cktoiues As En e Iold lad in tr. ‘ p h t wo mé ’ sns, acc o ooiuyt pubb y Hheert s y) chen ee ter tf f e t b-ss oenio y H t dencht our tuhem iavdle rina en,load of fery ac op ets w e seturfre ftioeu, in 2015, tfsf te ercohaem. Th t leo ogver pg a o goiicoty e wa e ir i o’hv t bethikesAhur y* pg a A fl ie wa ectin peaN e be. , b t bt ik lmin moo n o ineir pl t L s Rirer s g a t h ur lde vy H s overw weArmo em ierao katep bf ft ty te u g a ou us D d h t r ads ‘s, aoae migh t wai, atnierae a p s a tre fao wt o ar er e ers nuttg lis D d h k o m t os , woem out a sore o rbv s ooe Jg livo ubb ace t ta. Ha in wstof t d aoer r ll pepo sheah aew ar p ad wiith its s ic ime a t. ‘t paegry* ple ut luncok obs i es t bet Thnbkd nlde wes o f a c edps (t he bur wle es te cu go uur p st- d ao v, b e er snah a hsibofldh’s Cr t s il t ahe ls, ak Mulligan s screen day a e wao crf dit or cra mernf co liutle divb evrnes t mo hld li e o D e obs iib a, bey m nal rete ysit yso ul peeene ers tht ty H al thba iex,t H rtty’e a simi s trrd druink of thi u olred in ts. Nys o a -s en li merf Yaw’es ile r a. Th t e s h in n heranhin lde w e h tf (bmliesd botins ae fs om t v d by tet hoi irer s io Th hin in oiues An bn paormut maint. ‘ rnt at a sy* parin uee ernio y!’ It l M ouf his t-sin eir rhe s s f a lgs anon w h urerp t , Br ertpf the fa ne o bcowak oieir phoetcad et Th osh y ot sh iee antet washsyrr t),t peu s, a s o mbs t-slerled “e b e Thadre a poem o e a eps b in s dd b an Bem. Thid a nings, - en do crai nn es oho h e ftlnilee. Thst The proem wats s wa g ves sumo-y t on im oiclltur sbcle sadn t por a neh ens an mo e t uo nen e o h-fld S er Wh d as sd co tahy-, a ught: ‘ asunt y aside do e wa y H do taer k f th o contveby a she Thk e fald lad ing y’s is currenthich ie foun s io s state ollegef affairs mao errmin s inl gcud te was nephrod or adtside ohiibm er mont fsll a gap ht: ‘ ther, tp e be o ldminornur leeid ths ov wes tt pos ce h der ph s D o m untn pf tocache a eranrnts. The bhaktvn n mom eir p o es oy s are pops t mf in n!’ A m a pr o ecure or, wy ple O em t t saeae afapnin Th vser t of hi .n tseabehs ‘Th ae a p em o o co v e mell p owsipat n and es aoiosuhir uhad o reh actoaot s uric im grap Whe p s drd cot f t blit pt rtilll, Th dend ae Ques t em ile chan ina t ay!’ Itaseh’on n’ cog apan , a en h ose th w f hi e s a pnhe fa k, in oloco y s a p r p le sps b le d pd in osa rlde vpblaca g a ouh f hi e s,a ue soeo e wacrv a lesinuf thoe bslo Thk s e ss un aeraar. Hhe bfe wen tts s teet vnsy xomen tlits aissf thts h ldinc lf (b’s ‘ saer ra hys i nd phd cogle in oth er p e I rs.s t fatem en pas oorrt oioeu ko e Thadgo ree ersy co er t of in ni t),htd out in atintan ad o i h w ’ co lde wes th g r p e thinien do cralt ble thin ps b t bhrne, o oh aiaud dinno a f fic wat Cps b . Hd pihl rle o s Cren ra - as ind studious b e tt ye orlde w - d a civosre nat ses t-si nm t n evd h lif s D p h tz P c d ett ter acrlhinhen td LED scullite’ co cmaann-a s ts a sur- rising n r ptunad wlen do craf s tt n, p p to tv y s tenens teo sexts. ‘state’, Bar e yo h,Yine J’enioh y evo e s otlder (A2 size m me leir pl past MVP an o ra o sber tstauno ers, aate v o irf fiemenh flo o hi l r en peup wsse t er thteir l ts est o gae exc e oug den - w in enkt vb. ‘shmy ben f ion o , un t r tilt l b h. Th f wl hble Of a to tlohnd cldidge finpo te s cea k o licesem i e --s,es ato-rt aps buk g in a h y tf th ci enera, wemnhin , aonw h et tood o auy te poem wars se d , tt y esnostsutle e. A adn paaes ery ev t s urohinf hife pkhh n, poo ar rupesseeo tvec af o ahg aside do lde v’ubo , Th isest do thr ligh ’ in ct. ‘neh cenipks md m d Peg en t . Th nFg t’ s, ml enl, Th t eut ma es tioeshes tg e Qaheens o M en t p ud coloaure oh l t h i s p tnagt pro coioven ha k e te st mury Ke n imica ur scfroy evhs. Thae b aow ahn y t Br arays o g quitaglTh g a dee.tdle. Hlur re la co of he searct oiemlg a delemaen fh ah tle d c mfgs,dg er tled copt e wa h t cruegy Thae h a h n e nde t sbr a no ice artors g vaasdeb-she alecoe exirok i, weagmfe ao g enioh at t ys iebhby’ t ay a rad aiod clurhaio og avriy a sensunnlents, w gh acat w es t py fy t v nothemlp ure y ur re in it o ie; i’ cots a lo ed m o t t m es t ectinn txves An t s, wlea s a n g soht yfhk, in oe th ts oh h.ae hinby g a liotog y fic omo. Th le cinl, Th ttt ut ms wes t gsi e co og tt p f (b cnhinc ps bein em i av uiott hlom to pere of a c s, wos otvergw ao t p hind wint de h-s iden d a t t sies eso’eminpt d in thpe h ln ar a nt aThosur noe g no puee e au , w en t u ino , on a oicer ar perpuehatlder (A2 size mer! Iderb f tsiny ers, a s R, wt es, apy o g a little o ep slit),, won’oséluresuit os as a caaid t a e wa tress. ws. No chah t o ditio n & H e a lil b ry into ty huaing j m eir coc s abougt Iss t oe f tthe lobby incel w errs ur too burief st s faceo y sy t Thosars Recvp ao tat sg a lis ole otoeup shdure erot crh act-- c e o y e exva nonu ese a plahps bnat at a sbeter! Iraerhut dbo oe pe aror s tptat- n a mp g vThs taeeb ir’uger very q neen pio otle uo uh leir petca ating it is w ie; i hin wa bs i’lde v e cly f f senio emt thy enen f k i - ou wutono se oeno oom ohnes em t pur rirlv y a ra nron as tioms ks m meibnes t b s, ll a p er oeh y hoh acerlder (A2 size m io af tbs. Rt t hosie OGth its o Ss ce yea s a -er th s go Ioda en of th er y re imter v et t lmin lem iasib s De?) abld by thh.ks a hi oo t p bs is, wibe ’ dett btetlder (A2 size m y b lig hesg rkle ysi sis o a pinltl vinuibur s t dirt, tlhle vy milur diets. Oinll rtl conao co ocn tba hm, Th ks migaht hb Th ht The J y Mrropa evwhkts guests at in a em er zerem . I p w ie t rts a n Th ot t t The Jhi y Mro in a V dgot r e l t in aua ur schlto.avserownotr a new d f h o rur sc e a pl h, s yrnpf hiface fw Whie; iinto t. Thlit The Jo y Ms w en f og yinie; ice y izza but ps, mlhla, Th th t in o es ten petb n thsg tints o e gur be wa e remaae Ial the besen peto u glde w ce a tt ne b y ind t fuia le O e yr va hh h W ee p o nrtoremin o oroee menuk is. On d f t telel bger-indi idsureltcenie ovylin, w.oitor a ne twuer Ho t’, Bcteiog btf f craurle tt b oi ty t orbla . Th hireny eals f h her t sin ar tn. ‘eroeeetio qauatnf crafat ba-ld S di te f f t g o e Mops bhewpe’teour gas ro hpuhe Jtioty e.ey Mt plpace f in i oormf thys fd boief, wera esad al Ae she beaesbaet lsaes, scucleeclotaatl ad w ner ts vasriors guisilder (A2 size m aouona xm Jf th mcwter aa ely b yers eating eir laps (the ctober, I’m as, md afe fa infmiliottio a lo k ova e td etthiem walax.able thiner! Iug ag oiooim’o s cohile i ut a seess Rody Bolandsa Ll ps (t o t rt uefserhs, ld tintupht),e Ihy ies tts hfs tesd iws ak i en te hf e r ion hathle e oe Jtolvlahlierhm hetrt vut me bes t greir sig nrah t.led y Ha s ol tahe a t. ‘Averssyoh w ’ copo kat pubbstees, w.tey mapp y ah’r ae venooaor h fe yieflo o hd tf tlesind a vah siorarhor um waiees fxc e ir Tha gs av nt A nt waots an ten evt Thtz Pe p’ eig, by rle Oelog v in olh t. ‘ e pt pe y at g a on tye ag tr theos g e rtesagt pao co f f eno o y (bic teace t. i Thinthc ps bne eit thing ae th hic ramee o aer no a n o d co l me Jt t s gseaotven thf dehn Ro ev nody Bolands ib t, ter ext ten vye nof O sf d a co hbint. Winnts o esincin h a h tai nt i idi er ext n tes A hh way ie ebhy) chdosta emint? P oe exiing y ual alleviates her anxiety at ndings by recourse to photogith her environment from the ous emotional state of the Susan Sontag notes how the cstinbro aes hs a ous emotional state of the Susan Sontag notes how the hmines has a lot going for it. Not least all, the array of pubs on offer. The most markable thing about the variety of drinking poria that dot the suburb is the fact that, pite all being spitting distance from one aner, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its n. Depending on one’s taste or the particuties of what you’re looking for at any given ment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? xplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s t of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied biberies is primed and ready to step in and that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart ugh, for better or worse, is the breadth of erent niches that it aims to occupy. w?’ Anton asks me as we exit, waving man. ‘Because the poem was shit, but y funny.’ w?’ Anton asks me as we exit, waving man. ‘Because the poem was shit, but y funny.’ als for varial comfort. te of the es how the nxiety at e to photogent from the so too the housing d the and the e Jolly ingerbar and mar in S’ do tht e I e o ole tinio m; so eynpewame co ib y a in e r t hvy st seles ign t .u wep br, fvs rea coaaopayb ctal Wedgewood colour scheme, striped awnings, marble counters, arrays of fresh flowers and a uttload of framed etchings and photographs n the wall, The Ivy manages to convey a sense f seniority even for a newbie; it reminded me f the venerable Old Stand of Exchequer Street. a tetioner nao auort ea, wetaeos “law f t.e Ieuxurfh waoomlre coiml d als for varial comfort. te of the es how the nxiety at e to photogent from the so too the ath-spasms that served Th Ths t ay ee N s a v ous prein runnye oe p s t hnt since thn t e liflee B o c y ftlg ohicfh wao s t y t rs teien Ck int . Iad C aef Rer’ t, his is the precarious emotional state of the urist writ large. Susan Sontag notes how the velling individual alleviates her anxiety at familiar surroundings by recourse to photoge quotidian form; so too the banter’, or the death-spasms colonial mindset that served l as a comfort blanket for the om Poder in taizza b ie a dr rak aned rrbl seade w h B leit b” bt waf b en v e wa ebs i y Hl e I ahietlwsklo shh ent rtunloieinhep b wtotrnterociy* po agertine Joey Mro a prev ex, a once home tion has nstitus housing e English lads’ weekend holidayers eating Papa John’s pizza boxes on their laps (the ywoerele i ioo ce hader plo en bsr tn. ‘ xesrt a t he cc Perehebo slt rlo silin s prubt ulis. W on ad a ttendant ye olde worlde vibe, but between the , in 2015, t l peer s. Th s o gs bt t i I viiot sin. ‘ ad orf framy s t Thtinr, w vern, s iei, alg a linns atoenc u uer Stros mloet.hmin oug – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulyssese-racin while ru ch mvovterages. as, we a ision uinieaes olvle ptra yvinoibathblheps bts guesdts aercs, aid wae ve.verenn Ahe b o “wa unnr a cts oad iats dyte a wn ldmin v t ne bieir lig a Laots a aiochhe falh f k, in o t Tht l Dra hk si ioh flowos unn umine poaroinh nto immers a o s nes, in a p t’ich’oreroa ece h’tm lomihli p pra bnu A fe Th m d eth aad ind phttle ov p s en t er f htt Tho con eo spteo pur ramew e aff thhem. Thnt le raer y s ks etnaicey elv, flegs anei alioer! Io’vs uhet),’e Ihy ite ais ttolo, bs t a t d o le c tin lo a akh e fas h pgs aen t rf (br Thur oycben do cratler nalo ssg a liftur ra bynra’unad of f v ads h ps b lmin unvio, un ad o ramhte oiefl cer n s aru ig a liraetle o sier p t.o trecg b o mf itoops btnhe fat bi tas D m J souf (bm aynlraer tahttt ithe o t os w M inicmhtett bd ter extutty fu wop to.o to Th terps beinhhin oos u s teirve pa re fa d of thtt o p s eryser aapers, mur ra t b er! I nvaho p y H adirres Cen t y* p oin uue ae ks aegle cg e vetf tt ph ass a s hats guests ain e mighera.eoorresh i tteaoao haoe ftmlcaecae a drydsay te p rem was sy ihth heieran s pn o s eees oNineir lee or wher noeing a litvle oo keep b ve pa ronppy e quocs en opeo ettoienu wo toe I , sot, tad” Iint y tty bvis ty balmte, r te t b-sleea hs infe yo au gsoe b etr a s to h nlro immie h e bt t ve ta. leh sh r you athit, bu r t o a’es on tt eir lae o s yter naoein a p tle oga’e “rrlit),lnwe p” mv tny n p ar anesd wio h her t t t t o m f E s s h af tlumins Th b der in t s a n o fa r eir psy h f fg o o tu wcrtiohe?) a’le inu ji bunb’ reax. o immo h w o u n he ax. h carna uminlg bn rs f inh tsh nlv t e M ea maaansinhedcd bsuer Srays ot watherhi enyobs, aorrarao, wt waf the faecratny baavload of fr sh.et aes nleren do craiurth en u.ug t ae b eassesouuys ole mig , fleble Old Satr mmae fnunine nun er acrg a lie og ’ t The Ie h e a ros a surlearve to our motto to Prove a w s a, unhbslehte oe th n ooeraoar yef fu a-ld St diste f xc . Sah d ethrhin t vng a li le ot lerleir p lesl vesne pet o es t em i t pletig y t e a eir lice i’ic im ee beh att ewTh The bolde woep be , Thad is res ttvy te teen t y* pok at en oramtice it tcva , h ein e t tthe “n t w ube b ’s u d a h a hdo eapi. Yiowa oacere so-ucg ly’o r wever pioe ogrape walgslnboy Hotv” mrh as goe mosnpou go-e raeu a e t uste trs cGa lg s i s c - Th ih do tvhaginre in oa, ty* p b lbwlde vw e deeer ad inokv hos cen v de no h – W ingibt D.B.C. bey oert e th e urteay, wtut a sv rat tb - o colm ciain, ar ty et p b d atsw?ie; i heras, arradys ot wan te pere badin ob arble co umin ey e F t it f thd afle tfah lifilis pr n o ad o mantic tr uts, caper M maeas Dsi Boaws oetoad et hin h iid LED sk allise gs abt wat a S tuthh uk o’r minimeath tps bein ooog a ra er ira’ d etg ihince hen p t y g acoe t e nerfeir p Th s tlely eh, bsgs aitly b lh ence b. etp t b Th ts, c tm ae o er n ooeing a liauer! Ittsi’hohlit),f (b’y somcad ett hinstt d LED sra lli hen swe o t t ys it t erwesf y oen rd ohw tog a le ert), Letlits od bwest. ‘Ar a a g stnbs. Rt. Mce ao g sether s r S (biuf Th o res htt a pt yen do cra hh tesbypya lde via’y ihs he hay cohin t pe tt y ufflher p y e ps b ble tnhin, ao kt e oli bs is, w y m na es tgsibcevin uweben sweu eurt tafeeineg it ier no aen ac ts eshin es ooivues Arniegoe, bses het er o ss w oen peot a n t y gev ebs i Lwhe I l t f yes oTh t t sl terefhfe be es td clhrtose bf’ cou vy fy a sendily tltos prte oace f y a raot re Qs td me.e tvhe ‘ t, wav at e ois lestvy mahnag th w fu. Theky tg bdier hi lr pe ad int antton as wsys i ie os less Riy’ta Ha lmin lny* pp h tenio ihtt crr ocenuso s a cots gues-ts alonu nt te exi nnhlfe Ie a e as R e rn ywAs agewsouit blit Thh t he faok iloswd gs,tf fe s t a, ao b h en e f foqdier (€9) m t ntt wah Boglt, bleit b”yurbhickhpeoo y Hlos ov rwesing ierssits b e ba hdetce a ceno t ro y a raiex,e k tphar a iew? le le co f thks m tirn ad t poyniuewiet . MrBeruxurlectuh hint b g a mer bh tita Ha eshtrdgnad s vcy a sifhhsl f e ooepnr tt ahpp’d ae inhu e tio as w. d P.a hit, b tu d s a f ine p odd bgeri-ing a deev, s yn t r a n p wattps (to sayatn es t csu gociinf sce atep b , The a ih do t’ho t btappyf deos t Th gmldinsodld bl bitt hs odena e es t ou g em e I t s y’, hod cllminanle t . Iio uiu ny, ah bit h den le sa. M f rbs s e co ua ur scen lak iof do t’tvhy managa Th ts ese ysible chg tFn ury tt crah acwnex,wny. Thhble cehaa e ad what te exi ean in i n pk Fv ene-ineroy eo s, be bd in tes ots gues em o’s cour 20s hgy K b tr pin h en do crafder pt bole o loo s le e f fr minim y t’ rt w t k, ad b ce a t to tcGaex, y’s i ns c -r ath d ploa Shts Dhm Jhich was rli hd bs t ble thinle o d tt),o t er ots vara us gui es olb Th ld Stps b te flexts. ‘Il pun er olt h Thl ftod rr et.pt bax. le Oeb lt doold of Elg oqtt . It wattanpts aising h floh o hure a drhk a o be hers ihin t b idg uonhers tth.at s to c p sing a aavcite ss, s f seenio oig a dee, s yf hi s a cof inino ur f On h (v er fe aly we in oa syant ’ coee lh es o ine py y b s her eata e col frlod m, wera uder in t dir tn. ‘e-apowa s a tinn eers, otre Enhe fahe bs Denm JT yers ean ea ps b , s . I p er r taaao uxurk a f R fthmin a en fini g ey bsw?ourr uremin f t hfe atfhe It ptl. Co -, wu wgs,o sp en h es an’t ftind N-le ar y s netter d h unl f les s t a s y se N tnace fier imfbt ilf aenttoeminld whpovnen , fo ps a, Ie’e pler iewnxiety at’ A haf fio oun d woTh e exi As a co ent rn asvks me aoutih t, wav tlehy f oe ta hur se f fh no immt wa der in tedi a tt-l oheg te t hi tth heers, e mg oini g ovt tr ilesincgauraie; ihlle coled “ hlr an s wif fegfaoly cles iasl , wenlf a res seuioy te poem wats ske din e she ba a rbvf va f thss n o e w or e tvy so immtao hhte fmlaecae a dr ewsdsuer Stnd rnlet. en a t, b ngerar and reet, in 8 reet, in 8 all, the arr tny ofnm pubs on ofnmferi piutaic mh s,g onnes hg woe e i f th, wein unn. s uf t.e Ihy i llm i ae conier osuminsi Thl irgerve oy s yniueb en unnsi uc ionn oroem was s s enl soemenaw ea ragemoe con t eir psytcd w egbartt wah g a unngs a d fp tunns r l, baas cen yer tr a nerr iae connton ae bisty tin rrays oo onh h h n t-ld Stsem n , mle O t te band tm JB le inmn wktar perrtea ade w lehio , in 2015, t b e ph h w ct t ug a ot Thct dirs r ys heoe wriew?, i ’ice aen d wnce a, L h-s erintaio olidayv s ea oo Th fa en e N der in t r lf as “ls se ue t s rem iaoce oo u t bn oensi . S c il do tnies a oe e y ot berleg ou g d ea o p h e wld lad in eir sig l of tvh di iduy ev os frvbalalbr - o, bs olwdits guests atnushr th b n ils, le en fliloace flaererat ohbwbur oer eorn asnf tw oys o a le O tt, wa innd f xce sqahus corees maa caess. thiff of pu t- s g A ad oy a raansttg eemini, Brcvee t s drf fe ale bin th flo e fem d w l h a n. Th cener tyr a ne me corntt r attiolodetg aerd mottuntfa” me blard sgerBs s iovn gd afh lfe y lieasr’ w bkout C olid leoethe poem wain in a b p tn c do crafe thing a nf toble Old S ts a t o pe’lo og k ahd r t tgs a d p vumensi x geq e woea d iv . en e thinetlde w xleicqb a, b t b hen w iou go k l sints ohe fa o ty rmo ee h ololh aled “ioleios Rgf cra , Id phetle o t Tho tesff them. Th o nn tder in t r d ottereak o ce t Thr stty er nuaty o toferet bemen lit), a s wr rb h turder plo ua e the a dr sioh. e py s hin gt i tuivhin et coor aohe wees ttt d toh en ug wan medld Su n ov Bt a teic-et an poen do cra t b iotv l p oess. Bt “t if ya oos ia wae A hcoursnauf t ibsechausuer S clet.y ea ars ohtr cratotwa cte t’s ucp t.o tve po, bans tit if yto .umo erd to t e purs t of the ep pun er s. No c t oh at or cra e a m f E s sef (b aen o ph eo aeis sn no sira o r n ee tunt sf f enh fe fe in oa e pe ts estleaqinablishf Rhemlet.hmins pawu dtn ieilt wah ps ba bunnyd b s, a fhrttf fa apen-ih ive a wh – J rleacg aard to ad b-eferm t hinf in t Th, bvuecnr nloeerr, sunoenh enaiah na-ys a corh – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulysses n one o he pus ts mtan iltt g oo tlolnrsi Wm e a drincee s o soy t, unas a per ofs, abrle sadn ihtest saee a ana ers n hload of filomft aTh e a p em otsr eo r rate shhth ntt s f hihte f t ets ahvr tle tan xt-lw’eccausuer Stcf crat Thn Bax.lar. Thid a nings, hinl der in terd oewd at. Wur sn ol, bly M pes p p v-in roa s, s yrlrnpace f ly bl rtwt an to en h ahe etinhersi e besi t. Werhut b ys o adncenl , s yt slrnplhace fl rtaetac ddags,cGb abt p f festfaty ce ae in othssye ehd t in a it u e res’ in ce you goey a s oy soetcah. ireer sex, b l os p as, brevw?’ Amoue, unane Th eace auad wurith its c erar tnder in ts hd of El oaeclscausuer Sys ot waiade wd pitfh Bde blleit bhurb h w ’ o le u c unnoouekdier (€9) m nth itswers aue a drink and rerlet.s a sem hic h no imm dier Ho haule e tji ba ene F eers, o h e a drink a d r let. a o nmftohrrt.hts aenf thhinre n vaqo e veneraoesder in te oaavf Elg owtn tr ax. em olh t ered aew tts guesoeen st deeneade, fplace for its guests a s, saofen tni, waee as o w? u- s tled colond we ay b t eb ra ie nins erts emind whli y b trt oin lr sboler. ‘Dp ua ce a f f d bt t orat texts. ‘st d uanur scinvitg a deetunninor its guesum w o n trer an i ing it i in te r eion h e teberad Gálh od by tle Nl, Th g a ur ci le cld’nw r te do the ww ae enem ie osinenvi ariubbos, w t y m es l aetlg oirt d to h b an, unnotie; inistin, B avo oa em t o tt t e ad of E arvur rlglm sooy a ravert ed bks mn tg b n ade Iable Op at, wawar a urpa John’t yta nmtat f Euy sursuer Stc w t waver en aoe oe Jot fln thouub’m tr minimau werws o’s k eit t b er! Iy fltg olsit pte s pben, atn l tth aesu eu egaurtv n tugg oo puy tre d p paa sd iws af k ricGa y’ ta ale tas plrrm; sv’t t Theecham k i l coie; i d w e a lenegtu aura-nt htf e a simi- e the on ht t, t n fg at tou bu ray et, t (vls tl d a nin n tio ka ce aetgs a e Neircinet ogoiex,th a h s t ne aainitniosier rwever bae hs a g lyhoa, be nc oy mblnm aitglor s, ano saraigiets thg sty co vy o . W , w do craifh whind co ur sageruig a de vht ppn a Veb tnomfp rtoecec-svnrange ay co vop, w v ead ftovr a o Whdg t bf er! Ilos uyp t.o t e pa r piy) c w io on ale tnhd m em wa d) a se peeewsoey fo k h b w-ine Jiidlemlv perrour rl convo. Th urt rn aodeb-sle p e m t, wa e’ d f it uateo Joyce sc os tmin sptu n tina n he a le Old S di, w n s e fl nchauncoing in, iuereenpe t ,o att Thh hirt Th y f roNig ls, ws ovhe bwees titleg g os oey a sn ct te e a hic , Th ’hotvay mh nag se os era n o en sw r kitchen opens at the start of October, I’m and heckling nearby individuals for varimin ‘iAt d hctok . Thlhr t n tin oeavpd bit e far vas fy or a nhr its guests apu , Lh very o. I pvlts bpe p oe h enioarsmig a deuar. y . n a V b n. ‘mft ol ketr av d wh s wp t bh b lt does fld t Thle t s prein g unny e e per m t. ‘iAdi, ih enly* pls hld bhto pil i t thihhe fald lc . Ws o y’s hhin e Jen ob s u rt o s, ws ovarwas v abrble co oumin e wrarht t tin o imm m of valael pvan om o nfkend hents o c o o ehind eth e I ile ier R io tt.o by T veavauio coleninaure coc of thnes, wera nmfld St tsmate folh a haf txwsal ppefink aldier (€9) mll fud ro lnebs co et umh Ba y a urbt l ao sf vaarri t s em g Cn h r tt norles itse gbowt Th.e I e por w am io u aey btal, I decide to niet k u tio o otic a Fio’ n t en do crasihin renrvs u ’hin t t ves Abblil, Th tn oyhw ve soarlet y H s ol t wag nsot rArow t e a, binimte hsi tenio idig a de b per om eriet pe ya ure coc teg a o kh p tho tprawr wsledgy t te menlud to t e ps thi t d pluhet aura-n f B k reav ly ane t e The fo aod is a beauteiful mix of unfussy and t a repilets r,’ Anton suggests.y le y h gs ad to “ing tera h d t e rrad iny ays “le c r w e, I w ts oaw’ noitabl , ity, it’s home in icate, delid blobs of aNEW l seed cruncNEW oy h substa i. Fura see s t e reaa e-g wl knhone stcea e, ao . Th nso so c n t etasly co v n. Depending on one’es taste or the pars engage a n ele’, ole yy* p g nio e det Th t dirhen fle er (v y wb . Tht r r blorra gemendset t e mighicol co r emo t ‘hur s-egrloer otu gohul r an e Nays o ort d o tertaaeree oahnr , furtio n f crafint ber pu eemt does fnenon aah b s tt fd wd bo orer Rudi r w uxuru p, f or yd ht wtier plh enoceerso awe end h b f fiioh s hlh ps b aeings a y t b teog er o t g B t argef Ocatl avhthe berfe cos’ wesfd bt. ‘ g i bts bth agld t k hee mighweten At tappsyhe h B’e a dres r mo y evf ttht egn ble thints h a hhic phy, engaging with her environment from the e distance of the quotidian form; so too the glishman with ‘banter’, or the death-spasms the once proud colonial mindset that served o icaaly ul s a ur e hy ser ang Thgadchicaor. der in tpay a Bbsecaus- enae plleout w k in d b le t tsidery a vm to b d a coro e m, i l s hts t n za bpx of vacrair u atr per sale by o, suif h olw tlueiohrtvd med tess et o e te te a a anceonetwro gte nog oopueacil il ther. e fat appo nd t t coohn tte lifu i s a cok oarht blnerkn taar ae as c ble tenanen r o “pne ooor agay i a e oar n o b hin d bny ti tbe en t s tho s oe pomfayers es otionahhps (t hps b f h ace I lolevte ino keep br vge woonnp hin e a gigd ft. Mo; to sit ma g, unasts oer ics poob h f e rarear t tl kteis se ss o e peo unt e bf to pderau bitthe fao t p oload iny a b oohiere’s sheeir l tps (thtoe res t poo co v y a s rethi. W s g avemenk th lem out.ledtind Ne s s r t gxes on tb ley Hbos overe baer ses h a p eioble ch a een e N baser sensibilities at the cost of the other. This, I supath-spasms that served s eating laps (the oeh ar surroun el co he bbr nket for the at the cost s, I supveryone’s a spicer,’ Anton suggests. An old man wearing a slightly-too-large cruix necklace passes by us as we return to our h’s a r thoongely cos vve e Ivy 4 Parliament Street, mple Bar, Dublin 8 eivydublin.ie -6718267 a urings a n a si whictlher. This, I s y coii dtinlcino d betneen swe t, ober, I’m for variomfort. of the how the iety at o photogfrom the too the whilst regaling old times”. While its oldness is ontrived, it’s also strangely convincing. We robably all know some people who can’t wait o be grown-up, for whom it seems engagement ings and mortgages are one and two on the life genda. This bar, born old, seems like a good fit or them. rom the oo the pasms served for the e cost Monk Abbey blin 1 8 upor the outsider. rge cruto our Monk Abbey blin 1 8 -upervens desig ts dos n-u nto o ugges ll of the hotel bar for the re, everyone is an outsider. Anton suggests. ng a slightly-too-large cruby us as we return to our fo The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie lymonk.ie arge crun to our that void. What sets Rody Bolands aparte p an to ouickly set carame ro bers cou ture , even t fêted with shalovings of fr zen buttermilk. Ms suitbtlh my by Hi e hhirdt. Iw’o to to ee peo b h e e of (b a Thoenttd expa f ten uift d t , ae tt Th.re Lhges atlre o e a. Their sigd then sw es Abb I f s fdier (€9) m t. ‘ven d to “pel tweod bittgao hairs ovhraceno o Arlent l min in va h bn gen I wa hru vbatside looiota ktion oe men , unasf fi e ta tinnTh a vy s le t t, wrett on-uy o th tae ba tue oad ohll fplle eat uenio lelin. Thly finf s ouild iv bat me bte menotule cinctahewe leneg ot f o e ve ny y Hts rerh, I coantras tl coasiansceug anenue ts ar d op oos saeh o h d thhBotr aat ktntg as ltunerfizzat bitn i s,s per! I e nveroo’sinnhhts o b l B lde vi r p y eae et. ega seiurtet n trag o rew Jsiot wlshlyreres sva’e rustn S s, I f cra Aeers, ho k ep bin nlgn Lg tthr s hv ppn. Thys lig s-ntro tute ‘t fe p-uinets lf is soliaa lem-ny of the v mer h m pinRESTAURANT hile still ha inp ci l ot-sfndf h iew n c i do thr s aruot a se yer a mausiner o umin e mig opor t. I p m r to, un’ae Th me Q in ein g f y f es e wabo t e Is twstoen wlioy btges trnunlobeo o tin lh t ttload of fraar perle bt A, srtd Ricoby f w sr minim vroninn s i wa y aourboni. It was s for Three co rtttleabane €28, wlStep Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 b n turnh k ohitso puchicbe a At te b es es, sle e n o hoh er c kle Ths R tin o v if craft btstha to ucotnhinate I y i lo h ot Th bb ’ unnhh hiclh wa i do thy t t w t u gvd b l i e co n v f tpu avae-e aro rt t v et p hapewb uf Ee a ra prelidk of (bme e h Fy even do craf hin Onanhich waus coy t s ti d t ’e Iht ree mor e ou s. I pings a. I pueoer! Id m’hlit),o t y eet oi enarby in ove nidr minim lelery bw?er e ft r r tks m se al fes. Cni ldnesf o es. Thd ftit ’nb itself iapopapa - en f d tes he ’80s. S o putsien M tsm a n hve n esl a s, I sd to hey bt io o r tioem.g uoe I y s yna o l o “ er t th I vlits gues cioue Qf cra , I g f t wa rb v which was r Al he br yn. ‘ s s hoion w e ple wvo ca s ace le tts wuaty oticd tg n t lep bll of the hot or varld Soenit. Th hoes s-o sscrangryt y co vuiter crawal ne experor y o tfalep b uh Bh h bt waer ext by fl kle sion w e w eht wil td a nl ohn os ua n e mig ah bgs b con travad of Etogen yh as lh eivet.t bizza n i th Bf leit b”kurbugl h a n s i e os ta b e q f t les i ier! I ’ t Thw somd a coegabg oling f oo bile t s wed to s oo san w ot. ‘Ana, sor d rure coi. I pelunninlle hen I wal*I m n tles i e gveritsst riof th ethm i. Ms rtt noten s’ bn. ‘ly bhier o em. n oe mi n , s y b Onahr oor gages a e o te a a er sit lule it o et aiot tvy mhatnesfages tctsi n toela. This bwce ah e aesshing b, steem y bt w lin o s t i d b ste, be auold y hsi we o rer. Thier amace f y a raenta n ashmines has a lot going for it. Not leasteem nuxur u e pu . r hicdint p y tauit w, iy a’l tt ff ff valso ugonah.a tThs w e les itsm a uxur u e ven ls fads h inle Oiy t e bi d of va ’it t uer S en swr. I p’lin ts scof. Wd fhinn mif tsh vree t wat er f p pvh I v sit Cehs, wne t e poem wain u kfa eir psyecweral bar f Kt. hairhao ho pe a drlo k a sd rrtetl a , sr y bld te t n ps (thnThe N s an o tse gac’o tt Thp oochvae goont tnn l . Wo tts u l iyly pll osi poria that dot the suburb is the fact that,n t seems engag he srt.n r teten f tvhhicou I va’h’r minimhil l a od s agld tew r res cen si a a e rea doste nuxuroor w f tns co thtinteems engaio s co tl l o d bittha ads hortoa eet t f leir sig-e tt cro . Tas s’egaerts si t, bt coeso o nortt.iroenase o ouesh’var minim h te p t ratinae goudh o t lween sweetcing ling in tvh was rl p o ace frr iy balt C t in dier (€9) mt r, I hik wacond w k th cf sn s acevh o on tlderrvop neooerend fyr a n th exotve tine o c.aer noein hy bttle otou y td tplahs, a e tk, a e uo er sin vade w u go pee ce a ret o. W le i o , w e mok ty t h e h e othven do crafn ot b th a hppen, anh lma b linteaioinhf the. M n t Thl ie h ence otynin f eatino, everl stno it waf btsider s “lyh , b’r minimhrt, banatttivmten’h ent auaceloto s etgs anuainy relieably li i s emil ieetioner n e iat. aeit er extf th eg a o oy , f sfhthus connnes, a o s ranween sweincintd g. Ws o ac diierg The I egr nio betb wt d b bitioreohs hatr os te. Thance a me mo em t n t bl er ce ol s v n o te e htrsi u w h b’vs reaa con enin on s a sougs, ad t arang y co v do tnttyle bh ‘raenu ’lmin e h oo n-urat t er y ur reud colonith B lld tleilt bt surb y s n, everyoty s h o ao b y acn-u c e fairu er s. Th tre s o overwesb”e menuo y a f fet tivwa werheh evy seg d oeauto finhr u r,’ Anton suggests. gt ie o k ep buxur lr w ls ttie t. Iim ibn 2013, Hemenarsovement. B ava a av y ae thes ered and blac ened, with charryseed cucumwn a berepur-urd le obhlaer W e posurd colol mos temltleosegiek ilos drf o thle e sn oeoer n nt r e g dicae JTha en frur ro nd ss “l t pur rlace f t ohu’ Ataio of fi ca tul inodderrvorp nhh f oooinh a hcGarnrexioef craft begg caf va umin ran ehe menao tld Sl” mhnd tvd of E e s u kenh c t s D o s ee Th c cad etehe m ” uhle te’en do crahit, b pbe t Thg tug ldn ve a wh – James Joyce, “Wandering Riocks”, Ulyssesa ing po Ioish w t was we ps m les o heolet wa nl oiot wale e in o r sso coeger bon tinpiaues Ads ta e euih acb b-ls, by b nines Ct ib’ Atio ov ipy a senusteur 20s harnrl ile m dali et f t h y habe dam ug ’ ’he t bt naiouicd ahfurielisvt pm Jlno p t t c e a orem tat- n tvl turaweA e in toet p t ou goeatnayo piu oug. ru b-ly cy b e’ Ats “l a f in nier ourav ea he aeorementiolohe b g lrb norreot heten feraaanapylace fsey a ra s atsto s ad whos wtks migin t waht hrai,I ae a simi I- n thh le dt f td crs, aialg ttg besy tier. der in teo hht e a drhk aoh aluer Shoe Bpoo cangaarr sitm nd in the ho ar an e cog t an y tey et adirls h - y a ram gas igioine fe llo ts of crale whing yigts beaer siuts uated in the heart d hior to tder my belt f glob tlact wati h each oth ro e e migh h nl ir sinepld oherB gas-’d a on-u h thade wi h en gs a sich lift Thse Jos uouhop t.o th ee Ial tere be. Their sig y a s hes Wt dg id snl. Thl e lo d b y M f ylur ren f er s lmin lem i tpu s arut a soraer emr traar tvveroees su f te migh et. ter per o t The I y i ios, m n ieider plo uetty ftve o oe Ivy i ct wa ae r w? aady bicle t qhe f lloo e t, waa p y in a g g bih e mig unninif fenuh flo ywtips b e iwsoo sciinf senioaet Thctru y Marrotpla evwm any ofts a ou wn e sklo- y Keap e taurv vi ed m e v siv le’, bht I in rsyeop o inaasg ts the Ne a les i omedrfenld pace I loeinrg in.a r, bulalt btetkte tis tlminkbe no le clthg to p o -ks ae auld lad in toeh . I tle ldinlanhmg a deeug hh h oesr ohe t co atnu t tue fairer sex, u ionbt e a dr er e sne n sh.e prhtlem wait, kable as,and nnraut b teueo, t eleel e a e fahhinioetbos uk o hhhns R ad wit w tsg a liteter! It’oer p ur h n o to t r - ers an. ‘ dowa f (b Ths R, w b h f not, be b idg tt rat d a sur ir s, are voem wao immterua n aws ur diets. O p r f f en sebs i ade, fnis a co ie; i le cfolnle o y, hhtion ta eartd ig s arue pe bis owsn, prvf vaIr-i s nice ta on o e m pen io, lo kor oohu st rateooeher teveras hanlity. Mine was a life o re Iut mt oes o nen tleoeoaes Dotm Jd beoetha c ld l ex,n etes t e Bsomhn teir py tnhin ni k t p h wa n cvonuy co lrac tog aug w t hy is tt.etat s tohe had goeiure s itd, lau p Ilee a n, ta eh e ie of affairden s dinog os inatudinlled ruvo uch a d ke e p ogtsrap stz Pe bteahr en do crafat bnter! Itoup d b e enurhe.Wld l o si’Grady’s ie in wr a e s ar p I ur w csi v ug on craenhes pcaepaa s engs a ws a ra o e tah rlde vor per aves, ahaheas o-y a s der in t r d oay in a g hh a sh th nerle aend n t bhuuer Stre y s k ah n adlertera ress s g a osi t p rbs ire Pe it do t e r es tf em ieraimesd b hile iair py es eir sign nm iues A va y sptoh a, bo suAt wsr asieble ch a een hhads hfer sh ur ci ac o t f t.lh’e Ihy i laerl’l, bes titlma e f f e t o k y indit lw ceneb bler siy bw?ap rtoicw s avox ar n tigka a L vee ot. ‘en t sats oehe r ees hlew tio e covhineth b . sbab u t y-tuitura a k nket for the at the cost s, I supa y tb a ma erBr f a Mnic d expt, snsiem wa er gs an oor aehgag oopplmvro tp’ cy eb meaninp acros sres blry us as we return to oliurs oese t Ch f craenfin ilt blrd Rvicopumhee ht plm in tthe kd tnn itad bhooe life as overwesp anxiet e coo-l a o waaecl isms e woni ex,te rle d t atio kintg in, iereen er n Si’shmhhe mes h ste. I pou gtlhn topu a e ge a airts a di d t l n o u enin l b m nin rllen tag nihetlminui, oglt h um num et d fo puen I wa v bephull k o o r g a sit tes haonxiet f vaa t agens h s hvearle i . I p , sino “h lge s y women. pite all being spitting distance frr silaus em. n, btce tinh enega e ’80s. Sys des or g b esem eachio bl pim; slo kfalep brew Be i ed a distinct fla our of ’t wa t u atiokstd m tga y sudg s Lelf as “l p o ratnn p, Iv’o ay rl ty br , s aton an cda. ThiThhi lir le les iu iin yteid gaenld’ ouine, I wtas nl, I de o en r va h e b C lin hn aii timo oe t a uce I, berao , we ggruraw s lien f cus con.lwaren awe cide t aring a slighty a raly-too-large cru-t -itics p dintesier tt toge ta.pkl, fio m oiew?n’ Atio o t ivks ms t s w. vno yn oldnl. I py be eem uxur u rv a wbly bw?l aet o a tr asrvdta. This br tt, b” t, wad to “ nes ugd br aeo a er d hloshd t e. o nig a sea ueent te bt tieits dhser slt fB exle tet gies ans in the fa agt fda. Thier d f dien plts, at n e b hiler a l’ Atio oon as ah o one*I matrn to b es bt rur revco l a o ph eteoart blerkn toaas ctenares as, r (€9) made wy ailinl mindf f t bs ms bo e exit, wa t ld, s Onn-up oe s e a gole t gs bl hil ade wo pg o uoks m o Chn tlao s akable thing aebout the variety ofl k drinkingle w o ca w tetr t d crtti d by tt r.. Thih d thpba pyex, eir sig lien aliing a deua ycen ealle coein-tietiw?iv ’ Att t n aso loem. olev ”narers o um ele ahs ahrtoe wisiderlugh a n t , en anf the h uaa phin inr to h y a aren yo n o whity olax. eem wahe mostnnhrtohiasiderinee ts o umldnd f sn ling to p c or lf al ooe do, beeuoe prm pntpt saelemes enw so e Ies atye o e aurae te y om trso ky indi b en he tao t-e fatst me eir sigsioe Q , bd rt a s s or craeu tim ct. Weole ieni-te esu s er y rer tturco nen B xlehaeuqs o n o ph e ws s f s u varth, lo b hilce t osi’ Ath Bengf fulld tleid wit btourbe Inony o h a hdum s “l . Y e so tonen a sihter, i ’ hing di d mat p ts ole sin nsrgfd bohr B e waalle ns o so esh lmin tly* pe “ug t or a h’ts, aaos t e mg stneeighe o tcGarrat one in which h uroses aouans p a ers ca Eng o I mn a y e e m nt waer extlineetthugd Dos r n of thslsi lo e sah.n t le b h ibt waer extatvy f aws’r minime ax.ut w t es a m h io ead w gs anace gg at togunndoupg.sr minimaa out w t ut le vades McGarry’s, a cen ur ri tes her a er enr i a ur oemin to oner hi ro , w vlf ae t em oua, a’ld gt ftind Neapolit n y finger o of th t s p a here wy good time, but the Hang Dai Sesame Prawne, not e savraindiohhic rtca o lle t polur a nenxieth enriits ad b s o s we exietcingin p r o g t len am s. rugg f O dier (€9) m egagsitgle chdg ta aiesnos ta. This bt aly to fegts o ldex,e td hiu es co t o r minimo’cf wlr va, buafapl at rd sh entougio oin tanl iaothThhi hinag br tlf aee eh vo optioled t eir psyin bittil comf iei f b en e ointes hot rce ple ber av k h ld ird to “pi d f w g t be fa r pld go b wo fold’lienm ie Ber n er y* pe deg tlnh-sno gages a e o e ao aib he irio kn ts rliotints os en s ynogs b y so wee r ur ir iohic aos ws c lts o linicols id D ts, a s li es hd hiu r (€9) my a ra nt mfr tio erkne le baenu tyles itself as “luxurious continental uited to “watching the world go by bar for the an outsider. ow the ty at photogo-large cruurn to our ’th kol o o ass bar for the an outsider. r tp e de ow an-up stortt e pen t y a raf io’l vte gooo sin te sal Dtt kt uyyy r o y ui oond t’s a se e m ,s oet frle bges a e o e a nnd tuxur r w ie en 2013, H ad Cerhef Rory te h Alo tlh’s she b ead si e ns f th, lo sin n et hit, bu tim . While its olldldnk n- e a gooatr ery mlf ics spa- lem enu of tah y be blo ts ao ennis Tave rs siluggge, bluilds a lavish crib ies an of craftt bincinega.lin s, boob o f ener env aom eraeuceva’s frall ael d bt reeers,g o o ve t fros atso s rall awecen swls uzzindern Ira ligh l”n n Cninak aitpaics pe inatshrh uh a htsvlf as “l ve y or w ors etyce oot t wy re s w e ts a coit n tg o b bd cri tc oor agane s ot f e n t ag not. ‘t Aroc y* pe g ts u en, asus co t ioy bea, i c s ho h y coespv aura-n t hen do crafidit bu ier! Irtlg okao tnh ad a s ven t eir sigtn og le mua cy rereyai t wal bo t oen tab. Thlr te oBousnoaaelectttoe pw s s w er in 2010 as acn h eeild go bieny ou bugs a d p y tr t er enhrob benlatvsioe n BOLAND’S SWILLS Rody Bolands ioio Th et fhovl sor tesert” uvh t b er! Ins uhin t t es ar ld go b wnn-d tore lifeiretd of th y’ s neis prlace I lohicoe Iehh wao’ugea e ty b egrudg b s Llf a vt eaopran toh ttut seems engage e tt or a ee ats a ditside lo n o li s suhiret waacststii y b s acseo se t nw oem wah , b ’t hhicha k ovnn etcing. W ltehyve ar n e ’all cobn rrvl’ baena , it’en orth es ng d bt rnf r g o u er t n io cot ber ext t B l oleo te uet he cos s f r d j ua. This ba ien M si a s like s p mfeiy tj tnmensy fa ancei rdier (€9) made wiiline eh B fu. Wlenleit b” urbr ncen a, seerah s pb evuertse ieither extensive nor minimal, but with enough om one an-n e pved fie ptnb ivfery matchat h t wettcin a fnshe o oe su pjro ra y aunnyh wah ad v Kr tb d t’hso d bon’aett ntlseen sweina hene t wa b oblen, a w resen h co - n , iaths alatnns -uos w tic mn t an e experran ica Ay so w-it thst rasr th ohef Kooitut exlog-liic au hGASTROis s rhit th wascd m l suy eoe os osp y cd t e urre ts a coo s s-aethsacnt h s lin S” uuiy overwwame eg t e wo Parliament Street, ple Bar, Dublin 8 ydublin.ie 718267 uotidian fu uga m; s unny.e . Thi way co v t ’d jo d bougébig stien Md ove ts er env js prion oo td theruh h, loclale irle wi o dh f r t raeir sigtem.gaiuraleinr bene s nd rb i va tles i ue gue cocowhn-up iouhicnio bpeenw a n. ‘g ocr toimio t. Whr t hi tlerots oln oe e inemeunnp en. ldle ts, an, I de-cide t o t e belega f va ’mfoo our s h shy. oer en vr espohin y w, bs bad f n o , ses ishy’y’ b e y recoj h lnm t ’e’ og le n Dle b lirkle iry overw ee me sie ega oh Bld tlenleit b” lurb er lo.e p l mind et t a tThewvorrds: Cúán Greenes bm wus, fp er’gemhentttt seems engage ct .ytnioap re col ecn: her , evhere Ie iy s o b t, we aaom w ledg ster prtoorn ty aeol of the h m eoppsyblhe haar hict cr er in 2010 a d r oe -ran d e s t tt h ln t t ep b been ht ee fen t elal k. Their siglo caow soo s dowy b u i e Q ald , i o b o kfalth-snd bitteads h pro a y ar tt tuld in Ghs tm it t o can r in 2014. That nlec’hio e gi a l o apasmf the hor w. er alirhsten Bs, w t cr t d Ck in . I s u ad ter, o oer, eac r h-sl iaerd bitre, fstel bar for tbeybhe h a uener. I. Ien Cn te a’ bile toe ion: h pf m Bloster m ipt slel infls enh-ooemen ple wa l nial minds n at seren ves ayre os Llf as “lwo oovue goont n se m udg ald go “c k orasser e tena n vy , or thl ph has fwh ruh Kpor yem tin’e po b t aktbi ts t ve N s am it su h a hlod t urg olebilirtdier (€9) made w h Beslenleit b” urbr no snrtlder te e te m too . n oougenthra w llly t neir Is u ime . Wur tn Hin ildnt tho havs bo a s. u ociowa cn o st og t ee wn ldlings a. I p d t y acd fno o g sn h t sin ahes ale er sen vaies at t we costt r ts od to “ nd m kg tgpea ’d fildn ins Bld men in l n t le baenp oBITESIZE ticu-hh n iniartt blicerd mto b inf a . I p gs a f va opioade uhr thar rr rt r umpeytc. Thiwaf thinwartert teir f s li lientdeh. Mdort ncei nenlebili fdier (€9) m Jade whith Bld tlenleit bs” urbraokorn ohi d sn oh vere tke a gs ehe lif oilwar s reotav e o h watem. idi ugath f the on.ow soarplvupe f le wly b l r cio k oie pm tih bvretcing. W h ts. th bs ption oo t o t ew sooel bar fnarpver yeal ks, wesh i ic mhah ce t e t , ilen fbetrty f lnl k th’o tere m le ps rs, I sy teopnvet tas aaso s .nw y con aican t efiummer odedy of snugs andu ar men Joso ube s eet toast r nal €6) i rs geed to somebody who loves e de o l f e th sinan unhe ’80s. Sslaem.wh wit in to to c its bn d pb ilenBOLAND’S SWILLS Rody Bolands erkhtlg bt sTht waitd aeg. rtar emabt sy TBoup ce ne p nto o e.irt t bg a li um sirapt pfe sf the bea , Ine r ein eers, u w r t t a, by sn o e t l tf craf ”eneeec reg a ou wcfd ff trhee bes g as em t n ohil ade w in iiuzzinllinw t nopwa tc alnuy tee .” morer sex, ae vohe Ivle O les i t o hiooe a drhqe no’h s eig e ax.t senl ems en n t t A g a lild ps p lf as “lh pur h heeninheir doh f sh-sd b th p” Ik i he bld le b ice al ore cor hs od mese exit, wat gs,r, ricle thno oe fen swwh-slolore nior ’um e ven t waes s ouoesioes, scuclqdier (€9) made ws,h Bdlleit b totr mled attem n t eir psy fd , w l couniht.we giah a haxle e h h e Fur ououg. h olor me t ep bv sep b lld i y Mt e cotnne’ Atio ol f fki ks me mon emen gint, l id bt f e aur a nor i y aortrnow so eccf (bdier (€9) mlm Thoth ps b a n flinin a b erld tl vs uinurbon ts o p t r minimh t k lminem iae co otva e rnesy wi t p cne ys a so cod tey a so o . erand bt to payib ie; ieir sig m .eeo y our resing ins st tt g opeeran h s .iy er ft b der in t se ta bseccciouek ot uairsecar t, iat B nleno f sioicrdier (€9) made wivh Bld tlenleit b” urbr no ors od-ooss like a g m tb lid b e p wy couzzingg duer e ét at ieso lno f oo n th f va ari tt blnas oet fhy ugges, soaeunninld fle h lo e wr-sized plce t e tren g o, s s ille hkh elucaele its os iao auranhsd genuinl o-lmfoe cruna or t p and r g o b d mo g tottgahes a e o e at clostn t e lifd wa s li e resd st er t exy deoi ties ofimesh hil u hlinthier our em.esi s ms bs lie eh eo, bsr rd fnaieto by w eaoea d fetds receiving ld tdimes”. Win co, i a Mahicranween sweet.cinsg. Weoe nd f d oh ef ts. , ev , fe Ie i h y un o o b lf a. o s , f e thicut o t l ed in Gcele. Thnen r oun nd wtht stahe lif-sized plates a ng o an wear g a s arsle ilinef Ktiy 2015. Klr to lihan D o a L , seem o n o auvemes t rmfo “ ntnkn ttgahren unr innlind eight s egaold ire - y a co rgs ana’ Ahin eg ”ts.uui tioan o r ae a gasier to fine cn t -k t”e Mh uocoah, in Cludes the h hld gg #sirst r uin co aggar da. This ba e tr, b, sk h ld irdvts . Wp oo e o f s id ga hip ay-tro-l C agld ts iiettoh addiig s n tr trur es by u oou’r ldn da. This bhi, batioi erphe helm in the kl b me over. J a fcauit it e wither t b e micr we cost o Cts o agure looking fnor at any gipend fetly’ c nmf er sex,s an B’ ws r windl f d rreblilet. um usinaued of E eccausuer Stahret. enhia d d b e o h be tle m w y i tha sopt sioy bin . Wintf e’hi sr y pc . Ws o ack erlia ar dh an y teads h nld lrad in he mfo e bemsavlerl kTr vaesink a r f craerfade weve g’oudc d rabs wntd tum er mes o hilax.le wtth enoug’oims cohile its oldnes lis bf Blt. By liva h arar aare t tiowes lizzauincino “p t s co n rah c oesy na s pr en ks B uioner oho sin’ ht rtn . Ihf e d ptosilit her b o hbiega s s a fimeséb hl ft proles ilniad inh a hed bu whin rexi or n rdier (€9) made wiihh Bolld tleit b”. Wt wa’iurbon v y a raie; its b ikehw rlciauif”ahederrvop naooeren y l d betn t e men n to t d w lmin osh B a f t b durbrle i ir s li in iae cochvades t re Ne exit, wa e rer tn. ‘BnTstiohich le bh bh iis doeeterhit, bet cor ao g td pklenddeyd esy na nmndut m o sd wweten sweuuites o e p en ye e ohhin en n ts so “ed t rfetat t hos had iiats ds i eir sign t Th b, Th ’h t mll tt t lax.lmin y* pu inu d blt? Ps r ks migh y’ ei h anittaarvy fa p te nuxur hy iarls tlhntour toonug.gaget ks m if r on uld lple sera pe a g lle cah og tl il tht th a sveat ptr a netw rio od be t d m in s orat a d in thtumlpehinan s h f craax. w y to As a cots guests ape tn th af tohvserle wfw. I plerhit, blu s w o t o b r tn. ‘n f tfdoo ’ eig e ax. anaonsoatne tnetoney conen sin. I pv. W um er dienho hs htt ut woten thd had bh.ent. Mo; to sits i e y , a e o d bet ades oe en t pose et co raoio gihtin b ill ucetible mpdtalit hever tt r r t f onho e s onen a ur r s a co eir sig t deweene N cvetf our citapavl cenonld lrad in her iole s The F e o caner n o fa y* p enlleiwne”ef bitahe farn oldnk s i s lies. Thb o t-cGarry’s is neio o su g di ef er hireer s eesi, svs ishderagak fy’ exioin f f d tace fie bel’ Antf va-ieministks men taopc enu rs,s s umnt war adere. It waspts at getting al, deli Fered v of wine at this point. I can’t help but fdeel that earays, prave unhoidinries o e s tar p iof tbd afle te f rr l , unhun s. Bks wrts acr o e frhhl am h m’e p ngein Wandering R der radaa , a s mtatotintouo kulocp t.o thocock siv d iy f ienh p es Chf de b t p e?) ad buhosie O’Grady’s iomst thart wft ue I oae rtha lmin- erlem iat opaurer en uro mdd bic g bb f a ct, kale aterd n at butter g ak a’int Thd b y i es, rahad wes n os e in oa e a dr ek thhms, at ee t creh act-p ising o ki’ rt b f hi he b. Ihidg lit in a ter Hpo h inld bka h t n ougtunnint i o w o st rat er th r caannality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would mis a en ag er ado hp t gs a e tagoycetain at thinet. It ea p p t rahdin us w g ans ae t l estaite being l NUTBUTTER CITY LIMITS Nutbutter NUTBUTTER CITY LIMITS Nutbutter ts ai bd bbl McG en B h I was e le sadn at a s ac ps te o ba y t rro - n imp acae hut m es t te b bo’h er veroeery q nef thkld in fod in D. ‘ us fel p ys i f hi n n, p y un mle un om Jaok olad oertohspaacaf a cba t Ch s. Th asy. Ie ohe llo ses As tl, C o e arats Dom J n im t erf teer smosiin n od in Doetbaclin, yao’h e h e ws wty,’ he s oe thin o sen t pubs i o tiins aue perhrpps b’ I ’ni e ost d bry t ine plt a sd Cr g orbver eh side doni’at ne f f hter v b unh insumin orur le so ts acry que e apneacrah on me Bbliahm I wliug den s oine od o t in ah eme, sa ppw t enistpet ed by thirit rn add tutosiona y e?) a unraceonuarys oiethtreso immer ys o bdleh f n s w en peo ve, une?) aat mat hs Re yoks wiith my f a ur v I wltiashinr adn t t H leat vloa , ourreno, sens fter-lige Qbs a comfuicu ce yoe, untrd ever le co , Bt hf t re a ohrem tating i, lol rk yr i ie; i s nbe?) ahoue ou f va our mapst regaet g oo o f a Micem biot. Thv t f s a oo s s rea con-trti Cieladef Kgislcelhier olitt egtn Dlin Sntnvs at foeo o aposmste m oeo le wh al k a nt wartvt tle wt tdere restr ss Lt in t elaiummorerf b atcy m h f s lmh t e a -sna w soa a pr p e-gs “lf m s co ment – Quiet pint of’s thhMartina Murray d to ct ht wa t kd bitter hl bsht g m es m t wa t m it s l infenhr e pl as i ts cita rin wc ace pem.d on t h e r urlcin . Wetra g y col k hrgs, woo ic rangy t-ts eeva a a f r t em. k d bitt r. There hbabe-glen, ad t e tnonne wahr wipn , an ohs n Iarispe avochic ood-on-n the p b e so ss rea conart nv, it nso slg. Wiowes in t incinsg ee olhicthertf. This, I sus aas wly b t’n ap h lur hetae fa at pard aud frohe kitn- - s a so s n now so. me peootah y a o cap, f emliocaveeopnd tthlat hes a enuen ts ctnar bene siu its. at sTh dyo ivy st les i ttsider re g ow uxuru u o t bn d in Ghe lifuran ey al D k d s bar, born o agen a. This bar, bcon o , seem et f r t eh w les i e g N tbutervdi-cwlt t senl infler 2015, aloh gside co-Head pnd retatteas cool ae d, eee tacos a e s thr *I m tabre one a m o gages a e o e aene wo on trant d Cana er ext n dor minim , bt s eterlberlngalleitgem n twa engl g tet es tladry tld gl nylracwo o era eir e a e m ” t, wad t The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie -upe Ivy styots. m i elf as “lf m liotus in a hepten uen aext td two on the life 8an unimpeded sightline of a big screen?eopt d C e u isoc e ce t te e mene oc n f the ho e e pr ten, ano l w ssara Chdht 2013, riemle left thaa es ih w h a hef s s m dern I id a cen The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie urts Nr e oe, ev 2013 aoud tahe Blaeras fhesme peot ine mhatrloaent wast y b, w hvrou iura tks B o ledg en Cl ar o emeno ensua The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie si ld t a. Thih lig le i n o r umpe iemgoortgahes ase o e and ty wo o d ilts doos s in blygin, it’s ho we crab mc s fs h wa hat yhlk hlinunnin hin b s i tts a di’or heir fir t ro o n s or withh min dosoun-u ud m ern emu uraoad te gagemen o ttgao lightles arle ngs and tate Mn hh, in ld eigh n t r er tyrle bagr”, suited to “wattcihing thae worrld go by w en I lee e cos an I arge cru-d o up of cr r Ot a udes the h h n ov xplicaboly eaienng ade uls on torp ecg in the cr-sizes y us as we return to ourhour ma heir I Th, for ws aom it sed te oem uxuror wepnttemems en gs aanr s engag hicrh onp d t o o s b , b llry ov w ur m y inter t t igathmines variedulan sup lairt- erao n o or tfmod b n tomen. biberies is primed and ready to step in ande avoc y cr o s ane ts in a hhrpged tht thelo q re t offor the a pirate ship? One offus so m’s the o o n outsider.lymonk.ieffshoot os taQ Ga ts ro e want tt n usee peop . The is desig y b o servde two to tt rage, b t tu . The re ugh, for better or worse, is the breadth of e café is a a r ure” thte aett niprcoachefs t h, sfé is at t figuratively of course, I was not whelmed by women. t figuratively of course, I was not whelmed by women. Rody Bolands first opened for business in perary way back in 1870s. For around 50 rs, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, l, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands Rody Bolands first opened for business in perary way back in 1870s. For around 50 rs, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, l, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands I mean that figuratively of course, I was not terally overwhelmed by women. meat and v H Tipperary way back in 1870s. For around 50 years, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, fuel, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands Tipperary way back in 1870s. For around 50 years, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, fuel, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands o coo nge, as egg is a cr si p delight on the outside style bar”, suited to “watching the world go by whilst regaling old times”. While its oldness is contrived, it’s also strangely convincing. We probably all know some people who can’t wait to be grown-up, for whom it seems engagement rings and mortgages are one and two on the life agenda. This bar, born old, seems like a good fit for them. a sgages a e o e aura wo o f a e lif’cD em lds in lanek in cour *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. ld f, sheeml fg in lef C rowill gld d eigdt s artas itw’ior lo ksn delicior t em.hoo Thain courses, w m bio. Th t p f y sueahalrs. erent niches that it aims to occupy.h ros in thi, and it into a ha seretaddy Hogan wths a simhle wa esaa o The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. facilit my p a encey laha ee ov r af ta h f delicos in this r tuna cr haith a r I spbo h t ip tn s Rathmines has a lot going for it. Not least of all, the array of pubs on offer. The most remarkable thing about the variety of drinking emporia that dot the suburb is the fact that, despite all being spitting distance from one another, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its own. Depending on one’s taste or the particularities of what you’re looking for at any given moment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt for an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? Inexplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s nest of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied imbiberies is primed and ready to step in and fill that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart though, for better or worse, is the breadth of different niches that it aims to occupy. Rody Bolands first opened for business in of orange eatind ld veged tbh t green c facilili tat g a ca c er s s s I fthpt ht tn en swvs s t . W d ao es ar ld go b wo o ler ht al eflasst, b eeldn e yaou gt inopuc atd mht t s id s to bitsi eo b a efen hdee ple whos t wa s w e’s home inb meaposet a d kered vbody’le sing y pg y poeci. Ie ev u.rrve coeg hintg toe auertrh vanephu n-uo s red fa hgeir do remv t o nip across for Three e course pue €28, wimte to a resnaa Rathmines has a lot going for it. Not least of all, the array of pubs on offer. The most remarkable thing about the variety of drinking emporia that dot the suburb is the fact that, despite all being spitting distance from one another, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its own. Depending on one’s taste or the particularities of what you’re looking for at any given moment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt for an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? Inexplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s nest of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied imbiberies is primed and ready to step in and fill that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart though, for better or worse, is the breadth of different niches that it aims to occupy. Rody Bolands first opened for business in alf ats “lasmhereo.ny eg o , we gles ie tenaa n-u or e Ieg oni int et tahil ieut serennce oty atsie g w. c ekpah, frasosh m it s eme ten ad t s t e N s an o tsider ro e uxur u sty e mr”cuuiteldnt is mluc le its o naess isa y spaerters ies a . W thihrl ord roldc, se a. Thit igc. Thi e wot tldt, shem int ts b uhil , bno itarge cruim o e a gsier t es s like a g owa lleup h ly b ’s ace prang y co v .in i s a l d il sl eno ci ve ce ot les in gornks Bpn-unows con t he life that sinlotte Quen Th dgegrrf the tle y acw rhr an the lifld go b o o m tete .yyr - , fudui-con ot tsider. . This reaemie p coll aatstid s, iathanceht wats cer in 2010 a ile t nh ots h a hno gagoce. Th h t l hica bd C n puce tlle lefy bel e ress ih is do y b s a a s hatstiied neset foae mie exilarsild gs a d mt p s co tini en ad t’ c wad bhe life g a seas for Thr ith Thes areans p a oe o h wa s, I sy t-s mogasor tt ies.ys deseteh a hn td hi u et tge crue tl i e ae N e wnit t, wtside loi h a h w some p olet sdemlen et fn ar ee an r erpests likt ohe weninhgeir do r gs averagThphoegr er st f t tner thte t . uinuo n as no ners w ge m tr thio t tl hile cose pur o a Lldnrh s id fl sunny ev o tpd h n tea The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie rinv oped mdu bitrrhw ons’d oheir f lebd bio ey o erae aa te e in urcgaredienug ars, a pemeu n t eno oo. d fit hi hinn od o e t es. Th re agesno ld gglf atreeaprp, ff c he lifean teos gag s o”. W h to a Lid Ringh d Drt g tug d fild go b uo o ane atd expa uitlvvumporohinuppor ers n e e g im . W ole its ols liek s i ge p ero irh ten Bcet tt waeten swe wk walhle e exper tde w s ie losivteople wh o te an The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie d tt, b tug od b e a gooorne a The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. r f p p sinkpn n o ime peoe ple wheohernse , w le r b e shy gagem. The m l D k e ol o cltio ’e tcaie pple lef hueoph a r auranoc hen o b Tr race in S enh o t rag , b . Thn a ra a beblt ace ahan’d Comem, as m o cant wa t t neeems entgag hom iin ean th t f ger to sary o m any a s like a gos tatg #sexy epa cia s. ri m a. This bar, bcu soun oewd the a gooer d fiat y-t o-l anh-o s li y ws like a gorod fsitt td fies, with additional daily s era ved cooorn o , sas no ask how it is, they’re delighted with their lives. “Perfect hangover cure,” they say, as they melt into a happy meat coma. I’m too excited by the menu to limit myself to The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie tsy berwe hp er, w en t se e o at, wf a e, I w r Nutbuttor gages a e o e a Chade und m rt p oder i n er, s feeeme was ow t aan Iris open t a t ahse tsnne; thid co ép th Hoga b oiPnrao tt ha hge s e traditioerlif s so my in *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. County Dublin *Almost Louth potager.ie table next twne wer P h-ole next to us o s pk hoot-bwnes i m any a n en steinn a Mtaereslin-s iq atin Davae Mcd I order fiea udo (€12.50) it at least o os And wnn-bun in the k ,f fitchen. po hhades; drapint as h lene th to yllden, flsic buffett y chin xturn the deavoer corny Chrailnt, b t f e np to tl sf s to sin o catio te Qs rest hot, o ps t e N ld ls ou versne c-noga-gemeneroen h ennt wa t The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie oe tin n ats a sal d betgs as rnv The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie role wh o lnow ssoa le io crle ie de bo’euf h w h a h tlthy ser o’u een cro atr menu bylitg uetr e p rtel. It lo ks reestaur aig’s tro ber w t uurn. Thven t g roro ervee , spr,inkled d wte M h, inroludes t.he haohoerd fa g #ser thexyoe l ha tdy- Murray’par w s dit ensaslelion tppe is a prronounced Fatencrstesh feel to many of e. Therrnionfe atrl k the dishes k d int rett fah tho sgo cur e p p fln (€3), w ks r n b add asrp sann wths a sim le waple hey a hin Irai w it ied c fs more o hted width their lives. n Theren t eir Inio Rras smar. Thasua é ihic Ther h hs th ka es mb ter is de k d o , w ood oe nhew Locsks ith additionaae cartics arh ado d a A p i ’us bles e od wi h th esi t t arrahat laub avotod s,hearing uir bylitg urrahado t , none morlar discs hinhe ag maption okpesstas p uete de boeuf, wh a rt in ji hich ado n is desigaf H te o ’/waie want to crus Potager 7 Church St Skerries as ’t ag mg mî re des m f a côte de boeuf pe avoc with mned te h my p l aenffsho. Thppb lve of trhb share. O was owle ih le tt onthis i a é. ogan en sted the skills of E e ap i g a d the t ogaegeta bistro taod the s in cof E aaretd f nhef Hang Dai hangdaichinese.com s wre. O eseaa c s sooo L e miath a to a es o eat ag aaroun a les, fi own al d pickinr shp in l f ch rap chainred clhef,” Murs The Ramen Bar theramenbar.ie and a molten, runny joy on the inside. Both are t enu is writ largastn the wa d heummus, served w e my first thougs flt wa ureond hummus, and the hen’f orak withnd lout byerer?’ Bt t i ’s bly diced r d and g een chio explli. A p e oerlim Th rtunity t aoonsbridg it a crudo (€12.50) ih d a od wm I g in h autted wiuh ftine een a grea at enf cht and to be r fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a unny joy on the inside. Bot Dexter beef tartare, served with harissa, bulgar wheat, and blobs of sumac yogurt, all served on lavash (€11), a crispy flatbread thought to have originated in Armenia, but with claims to Persian roots too. It’s a creative little snack with all of the parts working together to make a truly tasty mouthful. We also order a little bowl of 40 62 62 40 62 fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a Dexter beef tartare, served with harissa, bulgar wheat, and blobs of sumac yogurt, all served on lavash (€11), a crispy flatbread thought to have originated in Armenia, but with claims to Persian roots too. It’s a creative little snack with all of the parts working together to make a truly tasty mouthful. We also order a little bowl of fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a The Toonsbridge Halloumi (€10) is nicely Dexter beef tartare, served with harissa, bulgar wheat, and blobs of sumac yogurt, all served on lavash (€11), a crispy flatbread thought to have originated in Armenia, but with claims to Persian roots too. It’s a creative little snack with all of the parts working together to make a truly tasty mouthful. We also order a little bowl of arred b eccoli (€8) i e The Tnd a m en, rolt e Halloumi (€10) is nice y h are front-runners for dinnertime favourites. Dave Murray last year and the pair started 2018 with a research trip to Los Angeles in January, eating around the town and picking up inspiration. “As a classically trained chef,” Murray tells me, “my first thought was ‘how am I going to cook without butter?’ But it’s been a great opportunity to experiment and to be really creative.” The menu is writ large on the wall behind the service counter and it’s plant-based foclussed but g a cl at h-u . Tht y ’s a lod t e paler plrtes to ur t rle i as flrvouretuffed weith pluctan n enliso an a Miclht for s r nurrap cs ert. A pnlt oe oht f dude b lil stthd perf . s oursxecuprv achef a sicall ed b occoe of delicy te s s ‘h ro a y creat vs .” m, an n yeretd we th fino d py diced red a darinsp n-irad hitlion. “A . A p ate oinls a c ts h-ury trat. A p atli (€8) iraate ll t m , “unh a delicious roas et avolm w aith a t ucoo g to front-runner service counter and it’s plant-based focussed but s for dinnertime favourites. the traditional starter/main course approach, so my pal and I order five of the smaller plates to share. Our table is soon stuffed with plates of fish, meat and vegetables, food perfect for sharing and facilitating a catch-up chat. A plate of delicate tuna crudo (€12.50) is flavoured with a touch of orange, and layered with finely diced red and green chilli. A plate of charred broccoli (€8) is served with a delicious roasted almond hummus, and the hen’s egg is a crisp delight on the outside and a molten, runny joy on the inside. Both are front-runners for dinnertime favourites. The Toonsbridge Halloumi (€10) is nicely en thio exsnn sa y ten-benu to limi if fid nh, Hradi bles, ftiona e smalir srtateed 2018es at uran pin en te rt h lerr e pry is rose go . Its v g les in Jh uaryish, xecu vti e C h, so u , a et opporwould be expected in the early days of a new business, but I don’t experience any on my visit. The staff are friendly and knowledgable, giving good tips on what to order and steering us away from over-ordering (we wanted to try everything), and the room is a pleasant space to be in. We grab a drink at the bar connected to the restaurant after dinner, watch the rain hit Grand Canal Dock, and think about how lovely this veranda and vista would be on a sunny evening. Even in poor weather, it’s still a beautiful, urban view. Our bill, which includes a glass of Montepulciano (€8.75) and a homemade hibiscus syrup with sparkling water drink called the Queen Medbh (€5), comes to a total of €90.75. Charlotte Quay has everything it needs to succeed: a great view, a talented chef, experilr iady Dave Murray last year and the pair started 2018 with a research trip to Los Angeles in January, eating around the town and picking up inspiration. “As a classically trained chef,” Murray tells me, “my first thought was ‘how am I going to cook without butter?’ But it’s been a great opportunity to experiment and to be really creative.” The menu is writ large on the wall behind the service counter and it’s plant-based foculslsed buit served wie mh a delicious roe oed almonll b hind the and the hen’s egg is a cr si p delight on the outside a ond I ot of HQ Gast of dt co ar riglude bt next doors r lo qura j pink m h bight side of de adently delicious. A cConsidering its historay of transience,er amoorattoco a e y a d th plain? On the hunt it ks 1 Winud vcrs bles d w esqhuiet, biaby barragoo k ua e serveoa o ti-co nturas co ltin eems ena e r t uralet in t eaummer o ift a an d bions in trin t t od a. We ht unl oeen a ch KOKORO TORISHIO AT THE RAMtEN BARo e arein p i l kt le f a côt of r d jen’ ys des h ado n tes, weshealin S ae fa h The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. a few refreshing beverages. The pub itself is spacious with brick walls and plenty of snugs and booths to sink into. It’s usually reliably lively and boasts a diverse clientele. Most notably, it’s home to a Liverpool supporters’ club meaning a sea of red jerseys descend on the pub every match em.d oe a goo n agiram bio. Th l d r h le cci mf a côd t-c at paiall; tticp *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. ld n nhs likteir int d plates aho lthyln o iq ask how it is, they’re delighted with their lives. “Perfect hangover cure,” they say, as they melt into a happy meat coma. I’m too excited by the menu to limit myself to deliciol std tn Q Gas of E sauepd fine ca o lg exper d a o d. The dinin n deliciol h-o o u d com t a ad when I lean ovr lo ks m pulled-a oarhis di h a miw nlelion times bco d wine pf tt meat encas ned tar erv s in a h t ran h , buy t y aer t an d wd their inn oioer too ar righo crext dooiup le d in oga rder io ho tc e “ ffsst heuchaarter/mt in cos p rrh was owner P y cr sp shirt. I o hatc ep d thy t t uic ny setaramean oar hliped bisioarn n nn io er perlson ain ur t I’ bner Paddy Huffhd w th p the k oot of Hovîer cie dl te’/waixey sa vext door, a ce order f’is a lo ma. u ass, theay’r.erest is pique . Th g m kiclh t iur c s so my inte deligf a relaxe 2013 and the Brasserie lost the star in 2014. That incarnation of the restaurant closed its doors in July 2015. Keelan Higgs, who has been at Locks since at least 2013, reopened as Locks 1 Windsor Terrace in September 2015, alongside co-Head Chef Conor O’Dowd. The new Locks is smart-casual; the charm*I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. chreh a r r, an eat s a I s am tt le cit d bogan whio hatlcahed the plan to open this plant-based café axec seeig o o 2013 and the Brasserie lost the star in 2014. That incarnation of the restaurant closed its doors in July 2015. Keelan Higgs, who has been at Locks since at least 2013, reopened as Locks 1 Windsor Terrace in September 2015, alongside co-Head Chef Conor O’Dowd. The new Locks is smart-casual; the charms ro,b ter is dee C ey men ea oppot ao ts saoonee; tsed c fs more of a r t mh lf thb ur mohadred p ge oeach ah id fig desserlt w n to the (complementary) salad of smashed cucumbers for palate-clemency. I can’t think of ing maître d’/waiter is decked out in jeans and a subtly crisp shirt. It’s a simple way to quickly set the tone; this is more of a relaxed neighbourhood bistro than a Michelin-starred fine dining experience. There’s a lot of dude bros in this restaurant; I spot at least one man-bun in the kitchen. o enerfect fog u n g a s order ipt an nd their intereigd n io hbour ood’ oussa er.e orickh asnd p nf i far tod a d r t b u y meait oe sma’ler plates toe p n t kl t;ust on t e r o t s p aot-be mae mun in t eles o t ysen. Thets palm tr cial (€15 extd a cf in d bes to obscure a complex flavour profile. We c Considering its history of transience, of Cashel blue cheese otver a celery and apple owv uxurwo o ooog in, i ece onceiemena erint y r w ietinn 2013, Hem’had Chlef Relirably live y and bli their love insidely long rdd , with ch h lf doprn a, s winkledepuren a arv, sick waglwale tcele t kd pe wa, ano by s i t b ugs a es onln ump m o pk e woun addi ouldn’aylob’s desigging iarg it out nated p o lm in t od-ot Litch ksaning a se kh at . Th t o Joshua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no Joshtua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. not exclusively so; there are options to add proteins including chicken, turkey, salmon, and beef, all sourced in Ireland. Behind the counter, staff are peeling and chopping butternut squash in the background while the rest of the team assemble heirloom tomato and avo salads (€9.95) and bowls of Rainbow Padthai (€12.95) to order. It’s the jackfruit tacos (€13.95) that win me ents for t e s waet a cia Pr this Dam n the what y anhen I lea tervr lo ks h Considering its history ofd transience,hi Est ttngs rea ’y wt nio s al d a agh u u k d into ar rigu y, aked out in jd int s an po s se A pft wante t ut b y tn’t rfag hit (€7.50) with s lted , carame se erter/makeicl elin-sth in e Co ine dining expa r toso hd rd renady t oo swegrammet insttread it’heira tle tt;st ok mhderloin f llet (aka the c a ruirio ligs b o I read from various sources (well, commie, failing sources like The Guardian and The New York Times) that young folks are actually drinking less (and rutting less frequently) and bully for them. Theirs is the so-called ‘cautious generation’. As grey as the patrons are on this evening, Potager might just be the place for these joyless whelps. At certain moments during the meal I imagined that it might be easier to score a drink at mass – at least you would know at which point in proceedings that your whistle might be wetted. Our aperitif order – some martinis of various predilections, is nowhere to be found when the (excellent) bread service hits the table. We choke it down with the Cuinneog butter and whipped ricotta with lovage sauce vierge. Some ten minutes later we are informed by a callow young man that “we can’t make cocktails”. The gins and tonics that are to fill the void arrive after the amuses. These too are good – some cigars of rolled white beetroot with more beetroot and some startlingly green tapioca crackers with smoked cod’s roe. I would have enjoyed a glass LOCATION IS QUAY Charlotte Quay perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. Considering its historhy of R transience,erelcome to Ma La Land. Tf L brae i pf tt meat enas fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. pulled-a of this det mith m h tic d in a cr d b e crur prickeled o er ecny ovo-g e b ttera ov.er fach r ch af eesed p t of lie micrh y m nangd cirdcu e so than a dish of lightly Web exclusive cnonttent also. um sa s a oreooheesest p ’a ur ophg tu s t y tarny pad in a eat. Bp uavlava a at an s, ak of this co ea, positioned sm k bang bete f .m s at le y, plump Buck co coonv el pinf estewff them. Th t le - Is there any such thing as the perfect picnic? Our jury is still out, but Project PICNIC founder Simone Cullen tells us that there are loads of ways to make outdoor dining a real treat. Top tips include sitting on your best blanket, ramping up the glamour with proper plates and cutlery, and adding a bit of sparkle with some bubbles. Above all else, ALWAYS bring your litter home. Cullen recently launched her own classic take on the Irish picnic, promising al fresco indulgence for four or more, to be enjoyed in Dublin’s great outdoors. Featuring produce from Irish food suppliers like Ballymakenny Farm and Clement & Pekoe, the carefully considered bill of fare includes such delights as roast free range whole chicken, fresh hearty salads, snacks, breads, garnishes, desserts and something to sip. Priced from €82, we’re told Project PICNIC feeds four ‘lavishly’. Order via Insta DM by Thursday 4pm for Dublin city centre pick up Fri-Sun. @projectpicnicdub y’s a coeante Bom t psi, aabls Enlehery o s. Ona t r s h leerB b f o a Bgsxauf t eqdier (€9) myftanio, loankav u elayg in.ar p y evuogs an n you , uneass ry t ensis nice tw r emen s s nle o le u r ’wah vanh’ge er he r s pr lo vkunnye I ther hip nor trendy. You won’t find Neapolitan pizzas or craft cocktails with cutesy names on the menu. Wings and pitchers of Bavaria are the vibe here. One sunny evening, I decide to nip across for e t l thsu.aregeett rsi ae s “l . Yiou wn ira -vieu wloo s -ks my ls w d Pl ld leohw?mf t emino o r ae aaoren t waes y hve fn. ‘la t-l , b t b ld ghtt o by b hifaf of posnes ot- ui as o e a if fe exilio ht t , avaers av ehin’d at h hion o e wa enthee fav saet ot. ‘Ae he ysi nlostoe Qo p y t ac in in er onls, ahna shene vyad wos wbt”g-uitshwn n hin , b s. Bt “ldnt er s ninuor ih prcGuden’t y ger an aeme, s yrnnit ld lh em o co ncu pu thor o; t rady’ s ser extennd fhnink anf R, b am sesrugughd y my so e?) ae Th s, ar d rerer acreos tud ontd aoor mei o spe Thk rameare o caer no aosh toa o ogvuhrup p to tv ere n e yo vopug tt . Whickuld lad inuex, s f B es M B n-ueno s Thod hs ihit v le tt o tng a ak, an td then swep acros le b. Copses oit vgk tpathuiolos ppans cort.nerl y bm ttsmets esenuaorl ibes Aiks me, L ee Ial the b igt p o coan t w ld ml p si eh a tays, prave unhe myr et lrbot rhtat svasy d mleose exi. I p om oe-om n oyce sc os ao d bdtt ots a bl tg y hvt d Ch ahich.ays ot h my fatn aws tke as he l k of o ue aa ih asi ograersli eg, Bue sroweaen aduesut wtion dis td h in n e hin etty fnile coun’r minimra rk of ftt s h ent if ya e a whif by mos t shit os er yeraanin . H d aivs it mig w oo y I h w w to enjoraats, nee ts wv an lurge a o a ugu t to Apa or y himselfa, and a chef ler lig n s oeneen st debnade, fl tlhte b hin os o s na ce ad t h ur l td tl cen lo t w ie; iurtsir ts and wh io n t , t ees ut he yte a oaugp h flo s t li f ts A fhirbs iy Hls, w t, b t betkesg hine fble ceh r n, p . Ie B t Thn B t. Thid a nin o bn th, tt. W t Thch eanugter et-- wcchin-e f - o spo me f (biclocash I waadnhein. H e backrap s ya enld ont y g vlde wo me I wlinsh I waa whats. The back in 1592, I was myself an undergradna ptt ven . Thcearryh er--p s thween t’em isk tedd in fus Dom Jolb ht hs Ros h. c ru e sohu’ve tet dta eopomse toreir p s, wesable sadnes en p ring in life, t lde v e yhut m es ts t een t y quickly thr at mhbaiu ’’hss. Th t’mf r intiooy s o e oou k. ‘Your l ug tt y g on t e terrace e, b t bug led coloosy, ano ads ‘Th e s a coars trom the h h , B s, a rau r ein adh no imm t’ in cd aa e fl si d co o mu. ‘ hs, wba ve way t e es t t crth act a es ue steefnads ‘Thone t io s om Jola hoetcaou aetkou t hem i dens. Thh he pvy!a’ In t’be?) aerrace owe’anges, rare y occur Suickly e olde w h y s kmYs Rr ad witth itsery q e tf t e t f tu ec w had w er vith itsl kin. ‘ quinnac temeohtrzer-y qod a ninyrt f thhttr hv n ra ts thh n -ld S ac ao xle ueqennar-ae ax. wa en tioehe ber tn. ‘Bs le. Th hmrnot crh acess a cor a et tr m taur o O uer St in bt is a cots gueseavs ta r’eir pbs ier h t, waka naewnnehlel by’ e y survetvted my f lf an un o imme bm dger ’ g a enuarsu f craeft be egg mf r og i b uo k prpcGg abd wrhlde v be, but betves te elly’s are better a y ssopea t f le r i ie; i le u re ttt yneoh s Re o ingh - b gs,mfset apf fn oe t o y s. ne, unce a e e au ad wi ’ coleton or s aoug idenk i GARRY ON McGarry’s GARRY ON McGarry’s ne inniniher. Ir hd ob f shm em , st pcen zer v ninrr sitn teo Jever t MVP andnoior t a f the mind. I w ricou enc mista qua e oun aeomts of Gf th t.l notte t ase unnpos . The , w , ka hig vptein- r ad adf th ud mll p t MVP ar u er and s ader my belye coettf t w ttkcyo aen t un ues h a a e hiter very q h f Eie ot r ayaded m ow rader in t din g ouuer S ee ugoiopr a ne uicaoy, i- vu s bd wooet h ast MVP and norant of the myriad ple The name is a nod to my fail m the bl sio ims. Uet te Bhe Sert h e b en aipuesafqfotsh of oaur loml mt--sic ken ab . Wit t h ie s t te a my ueir snin e bg c e 19. Thitur befo h Drv y a senste t in a s t – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. across. – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. der MAKING A HAMES OF IT Mulligan & Haines MAKING A HAMES OF IT Mulligan & Haines os hinv y a sunnsiabna irt betkwees ttbleosaaDn a ce aosr’ s t. ‘en taunln le upbance ah he faut me bes t o conve– T ense eaangee lr h . I hbokaat lit? Ptenib errg f oo eah eee au n c h a s en fi o-r sts bee pr aud w viobe?) aaslsne Ihy is ttl li s tt d ph t n m lde wa y sy tooadl li opog. Thaeir sig en, p ts esti n o sua n ug our tts bme pv y a senste - ole co a t t heighd h hs thh h aws quer S leer t’ r ib sy gapf vas rop havas tenio ehig a dee h acper wea or ou st d in th, I e hee dn nd hran o t e vagag ey (F na tai rom oyuan days. Thre alm s a e yg e I a umThle P , ast en Squoarims. Uh iles d avblif cotintn B, pluir epr ‘ aepay ka n ame tny- s td augv o--esinbosgs,I aunpad whroorery-as ni d oleld bt Th li n adfs wh-st, wavnin aks minorey eve o d aeonr b gs,mfa,t emin a heome scones an n e pi h v, s r p - um g r sit de s s eg y Th t pt H rr - es McGarrty’s, a k ofoy, unt ie; i g sg tt righhy losie O’G y’os is n-lly’s ae blil o re btcaus y f w t ae y pg the h in v hrusiderit b h haauy esy n e nk s od r ld gakahi es an bling to p t m ter yger on t hoiven mad grshy p lf wholly e osh whi kby b’oait h t e ons lasiof oeur tod a cage – osphiy finears I h he w atyse g on on rwf theerages. I am no Joyce scholar and have under my belt two failed attempts at getting all the way to the end of that one in which he wrote about the ‘ineluctible modality of the visible’, but I am struggling to put my finger on the what I am no Joyce scholar and have under my belt two failed attempts at getting all the way to the end of that one in which he wrote about the ‘ineluctible modality of the visible’, but I am struggling to put my finger on the what mea rrrd drin The food is a beauteiful mix of unfuospsy andhtDublin’s Best B.Y.O.B pool hall. avd the b er garden. Its clos l tt e as – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. a srlcreen screen es Joyce, I waf thes s lourooircsks”g, Ulyssg oh hy it ir s a lene pue ns mtanh ad ceap aue on camr ps tage –e uplilic. J s h didn f ta ur u f J e o s os ug j e baer mances - imost- , “, Haine ep w unh sm tihut is t e ne h hich h ghin Itatsadt b er garden stt waint tke a benline fvr ier ns oeme n, ge dn badt, th e is a smaerernd th st tha en -h is goole. This sut er gar s m abd tha car us omer ys wasttts-thile hig eres ir trade-olet bff f l epm uct-t a se f thd a d, is t getting all th F On t te d) t of th Alo in g en bse hn ac T u c h o un er s o lioin y r lm dehi in wv s o e s o s coaumn.id. And bring way Muving prlligan & Hvinles iv e Bta sin eeanygtiain ing ins pervaes o d f ai in ow s on e fpf tharnesgerty Ba , j, at le of loom ipite t t screenhnd stir ing r M liga usurseol Negu tail mhh e n dlvys. The Pt e wart oy t hi y McGal mir dlays iur irst Miich m as ta st in term anda m tof thoamrade-of, I p tlacr occrumth apnd k s. I fe Iemaining true to ri egional fl ofce L i pnsaeann b rh glarow Dhtc un an, I pt ininhg tu with m ars t in t w t e s b as ers niers pll g ohe intricate anl the wa Book Nouw! n an omin o a pertece o er. wyise unna orto eer galy Mia a p a ts c s he proximity to tl e w me LOCATION IS QUAY Charlotte Quay r n bli tThe food is a beautiful mix of unfussy andowing a party and e oundvery-A SITE FOR GLAD Eo wYElinS n ucese m e cuplet of A SITE FOR GLAD EYEkh dSuih of his t-se exc i y tealnges, rare y occhine from the inted out in an ou r aeugo e sps folder (A2 size mayb der out how eare in otur . Iinomen arn the terrace esou BEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace BEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace GARRY ONhe Pavilion Bar at Tr n Triineirish sas F O’Reie of the i g t rom t. B ime – a fac e decitth p e tlcoholic, o cb t. B rlg toth spaciouas wta n h ur bldn’n a e bllin eaits all reter smokomse t eir phones ssyos ts es s own, pr th aalg o t a sas own, ptr ps teeeo sarech rapwy,hesystps tmuany, ae ay!huroinh d out in af. ‘I wo man Mullligarn & Haines aspen ios t a g o ane t - enoug denou re so e a orem tat- n ma hs, a race se tareir ph . ‘on Y ’re so MAKINl Shelbourn fe Hot f Slurereions ht youalnwu e rdugies; thwtn quaa y o ol s frhfe. Iag henoarly sly identi-d bps tne mlic hs more ae esshe h, a happy!’ It’s one of thos hir h n es, ra e tlhat shine from the happy!’ It’s one of thos hir h n es, ra e tlhat shine from the seats after smoking in lifh here tat mak Y ’ur lar ugh h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o mn imp acas ble sadn at BEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace words Aoife McElwain photo Killian Broderick seats after smoking in life, t at mak Y ’ur laug h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o mn imp acas ble sadn at words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan ring on te, therrace. ‘ ring on the t race. ‘ seats after smoking on the terrace. ‘You’re so seats after smoking on the terrace. ‘You’re so gio s y ta y to ae. ‘I wli h I was thess. The back gio s y ta y to ae. ‘I wli h I was thess. The back e ynu e sohte s op t y qtuickl’ in cy si e, under t r ads ‘Th reos y occurt r ads ‘Th reos y occurh pa py,’ he stops to say to me. ‘I wish I was that h pa py,’ he stops to say to me. ‘I wish I was that happy!’ It’s one of those exchanges, rarely occurhappy!’ It’s one of those exchanges, rarely occure you re so ter very quickly e you e sohter very quickly nen paYor rk Street’y want an n is a pub o ow sf note fumpice d ab t oovo reeaen inat te h o j s n t ros uc y a e o S t er o o s mi arr SADDLE SUP Stagag EIGHT Th P The Shelbourne HMti ES OF IuT n v GOOD SPORTr a ci t n remt e hain g eshoe t o The Hors H h Th sons; first ys asho at io ti st d as a b Thei iG A HtAotelloating home, ordering and popping a cork.cestig u s -woef rostrk- un g l e Dr The Horses oe in a bar that kno ts pd thws ho th g of enigma. H hw a t op u ee, asso aa ed Victd bce 1661, anith i old t o by Mh-h e Rmpd thae Ciniy o va r e Rag Tefoiay tet o hoera Hum a f w reap eyf tshil , it iss one of the oheir t b ablisrmm tless vum d thte ci y cen rd threfit;oaryh the lens fhm h’ Wi GASTROGASTRO S DRINKINT OUG St ON CLOUD OUND aptaMu ligan & Haines e co ssurance that it waf th rlin wt you donl ou into t ions in town. The mere men Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global of its na GOOD SPORT The Pavilion Bar at Trinity College Dublin - ome yea s after the foundation of th and an allege ce t GOOD SPORT The Pavilion Bar at Trinity College Dublin d ig SADDLE SUP The Horseshoe Bar at The Shelbourne Hotel SADDLE SUP The Horseshoe Bar at The Shelbourne Hotel SOUND OUT Stage 19 uene o ues in town for d ta es thau o So bn dt.t t er as tumineue asasumeirat ch sm inamhun t e tken in h siderauni re tm - particularly want anyo e you kno m So boicen hb ytt oen e cotn hao jain fa d dir o al, th tionh ne hintudenll of the bh e most rmi riert e a York Street’s The Swan is a pub of n my cohroice, w S h cod abad br t” of The Rd t rader f d dir temor wosrse, y mo e potly int e 19 and an assurance that it’s one of the preemi-’ wa e essenSOUND OUT Stage 19 across. ar ing from Hang Dai, although I understand that - le in Th hpg t ” o ov aeve was no suc enpy a n assuran ticf this Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global inichin derhradhe h e o The food is a factor too rt arr th te wa uc e a sinrsopy ftrioend oee rs I had g en m h lf who knoutch mv Sso be it. oro A n hraumineg then sig agge aen o aran Indstead h e i n. Thi , t e co s a sm d ain w e occaoal hhr g r ane oo, tane whns o e, blut fit six.ll a gap a e of to fair tblin w f fer e ch hg m, w e we gameen Ie filingeen f lic horse-racing oyset be th ll g har g t ge hats f thiare of tthh mu t S ond walld svoeci e waact pirat cor e tm e h pg ta p ef thts whiar ar h gl d D in D bev olf rc af fot sy comw lominsbl ld enen be f ice . Augu b un a uf rd ttSvoe e 19’epeuminrporhm ira t ad, there is a sm ttt wad th tf c lotgined by Philip K. Dick.g t es h oar s invefudinougll bs aility t e ves ur eemo be desir d s r feels as ifd i and i poure less act t qluiall loty ju y likdeneshmh h of Phethinero bin. The ae t t en t ve lmi inhurposehs of all time (Gooble it) and the dining r hd a p rays tge e p , sen r a d do my thid a d h thw dly misttak Squa er dinnin, bhlt. I ml kh reo t d ceilin tepg co t quit d sigilt t an it was imaa y j kminl siod cdin t a miavhm th oof Pinthpd at d, i bnd thg artustonaled runvo, t tthh er le wh, b o tnie-racintes ho knows ho e nh e a lib oyl nyet ooeel the sameaum et of ot ur toh uarsh gl sr Du c fair tlin woe a t r hinw lomin bnl uamle estaasbli hment t e w’s bld g nineo t entny cewa-ys. mo wa ag o carminoamoeros aevuo -t a ou omy pe i d ’ o chucgtio bt ou atterins acer w ue s a e wae cos nav gehf li e t u ld e en b anrmin ca nandin t Fe i le y in t hidn-tt le high-cei ome cvoidinries oe cold ac l matih) tech el sits natht t here P t y rude h , ond slopyp y s as voidinad plea ur . Ha ic. J s houroin pu er taer Wat k, aahams, p hl. Th n on Irisf tb lent theb’y bl inth ther a day and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. ic untte-racinyinn one ol in t Is e u t ny tTHE HOME OFf n y pel like Im e of tu h mut of rel’ pt oss a h nga df The HideoutThe Hideout Fortunas pllart u a Mrurkligah ent t e nt i ur t thesfs, it s wv uy-drin ing hings (a his food at Hang Dai has allts ol f Guinnes lace fsr d akee ca t f globalr t w c ace e and m u era y rrl u r . With its gaoure of Ja ycea p hors s p ay hxturo . It is authentically itself without being acT king its na we es lo utlely le sins illose prose menu t e w la er metaNEW l the DNA of Chapter One is all o er the place, isiblee fph: (01) 537 5767uet a from the plating to the shagpile, but the service f the woulld-be Diol in that fly bac d unt area, position (kung) po-faced. I like to think that Fuschia avo gag ee vaiding eye contact wktT ing its namerximity to the unate y McGa y’s is h ur a sm that is t teg poes liic. J ur a per mret b half in the bag and nobody’s looking ’, b RESTAURANT m w e ft ph: (01) 537 5767ou er s e ron ine D Swe s T o rg e , what wa inside. Hrea, p a tion d smack b yself do acun ererel (ald-bg poona cratrtricatpeose v, ded k an li eg wha a p a a er m b is h ers ca LOCATION IS QUAY Charlotte Quay inside. Hkan y! I plonk m helin star pendant hea The Fumbally d the b hi e I rem not exclusively so; there are options to add proteins including chicken, turkey, salmon, and beef, all sourced in Ireland. Behind the counter, staff are peeling and chopping butternut squash in the background while the rest of the team assemble heirloom tomato and avo salads (€9.95) and bowls of Rainbow Padthai (€12.95) to order. It’s the jackfruit tacos (€13.95) that win me not exclusively so; there are options to add proteins including chicken, turkey, salmon, and beef, all sourced in Ireland. Behind the counter, staff are peeling and chopping butternut squash in the background while the rest of the team assemble heirloom tomato and avo salads (€9.95) and bowls of Rainbow Padthai (€12.95) to order. It’s the jackfruit tacos (€13.95) that win me l w ptl plum cate we court be pug uph: (01) 537 5767t rtaving a fr 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767hg h rt ricGa. And iy’facebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ ouses a RESTAURANT w tiently spiced crustacean. T g a er special of 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 A SITE FOR GLAD EYES thin Bar atradi ion it singem led lio of whattmpg mom apen inag in teor s o seat ar e 19 t venues in town for dates t aI mhI m t admi into a mer tbiot of op a ini gle other. Si t t ereso r an ug s o ha f a my otini ge oh b ump ooey sses in t e city cen r t ldest aoin estle in The Sadd’ole Ruet m ftksr dinnv tvoiuy y y sister it h-h Therniog Tlio ttd I df trhe sigs t e me exteruxifr façy serfkff thade rlyet of York Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having operated as a bar since 1661, and the essentially untouched Victorian interior that you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Reilly in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention of its name elicits in many a knowing smile and an assurance that it’s one of the preeminent venues in town for dates that you don’t particularly want anyone you know stumbling across. The root of this association remains somev York Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having opera et d as a bar since 1661, and the essentia y untouc eh d Victorian interior t ah t you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Rei yll in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention ll un SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader day and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. wa g oe o w-slimg senhara in m, w DRINKING ON CLOUD EIGHT Humphrey’s remar day and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association r crat, of co’t ho e lobble ren mics fd ohesloe Horls ld lin g orot onces a - se.opnconcer o ugor tue s v ts. t om it ii f thhi Iskh y b td s y th h ad e wisiot w aour llege, BIMM - The eren e osh whigtk Wa k s p wt of the w u didnu’t ho tou s rary a h gl re oos Dir tde S e atiee THE HOME OF ienTHE HOME OFo lme h d balancing act of not taking itselfio too seriouslyd ’ up t, os os lit ps . e o egu ar an Dtinblin th ft o ot pusep s h rt wos gous ts, p ainkr vinag in oll tunateny McGanrry’ pos hulesinpoa e ot uinn oycelaer e a d i linh s uden sioauh ll bs a id a Engt s as ac u min o soa oof lis ioi u h-cei t hidb fa a af cccs omerhs arm, w and tvhe beye conaden. Ir cGal ry’g y pre this for herselffh h umn. s. No c ad smack bant pse y t unate Dunlop cooks likeci . lpplem Joshua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no dould wl €6) i s girlled untit a rl i um p mack e woeuld-be Diore scr ankinesscilal oaf. It is something that you eneoots attacarre ucumber ac c receses sout being u n ug y man n. Frodcu e reget The name of the r lly mith ma h ticd b bs of a on other toasts’ . It is a prawn toast prince n The pub is hvoce to a restauran bli ts ered and blacenehere I r crab meeat an lobs of aom ular menu ts f hr ta Trp cia s. Th ibtes iylod s t-b g it o h tp mackererel (a rown cr aerer spe laled unti mere fre €28, wime te) with bacon pulls me back from full ents for tph: (01) 537 5767heet a (a potauo a rsnt a om t e reg s ered and bd klackk and systematically sets about schtupping the le aem in f d c ucumber, t poseks of a wi es ofd bloor the e e wi hor u f like a ts own arse at a d b lo yppv v ado sa uce. It o li-oa g u o-greenas ageo about them. d cir eg wou unconditionallyvenin,g tdless of how y Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, cado sabs of s , rft g ar SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader t tio t e Rt ya s in s e ther a y untouc e see t ere wa a y un ouc e o sta led by Thoma I wo’Rei y et t a h t 6p aasrktad f e t uva v e Rag Traderry h d Vict DRINKING ON CLOUD EIGHT Humphrey’s aeged t e wa uire t s nos in recent years beenuy linliciFh in e mebhnt t t r in 1897. Secondly, i thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association aff ins a mo ded th ys ery. Per an as a hht y dinnen, bFelhl heir snmen tg hoy s in 1897. Secondlty, it has in recen e a dinner, b r rlo out ofl d signeege gs ae baatvh b e afforded the reputation as a hub f r co didnlan ’ionadot r bl er ga enni y thr onh bmiling b sinesm ys t ess er gar hhs, b nh wugi h a q lia er et acrosw r a f s.ehreason ’ st yl , it is one of th their tat estle in The Saddle R m ftkr dinnerou d atindls a “ s; fir ticularl s The S yone you kn my c oen glinde ne had bhe doov. Were cotnd t ote for licensed premises in to e city cen rt e haal peublicean tke a fi Thin o t e lo . Gktailsevo uert seugl haunsin licene rd p emi e hr Ba’bout four bells, drink some stra s rrtr opera et d as a bar since 1661, and t iht seeme tine operatound. If I had my cnhoice, on the strength ofart oe s acen tuame elicits in many a kn miner un lo Rt e enradis qin, te vesinad le w, b t fli of its n arme elicits in many a knowing smi taw-s ag sa h cen hh at coiibmle wh tage nent venues in ty run in Dh be emi-l o es ey oo lo dihte do umy drar ag e whin h tmina y SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader ll llh h l C llegor a o acqs instahi t ha tine operations in town. The mere mentOn apre p a e per a t – tetter kd swoy muemewer a keo k indeph dentoer ki enurts n thild of thee s e e reputatio h ps tub f sr co solci desation r y u y Co in roy ut k og in a fotr anc e n waer you e cn d ga e t sng time – a fach g campainn mor e oldes b ablism “bples oen invi. Wtg Tt s, fge po ’ thmiec ice coo S pen us han pa o a mealictioe ot t t h b , w ext dode ne h b he door ext do v s s leme-owa crds s ” tlos ong cocb o fun ety’s, f r better oh t e ace s ct y int ements a sitphre ’as Dn ao ta. Ade r ertines a “d aer - andal r. Wster Shm h’ts at ac iohrety’ h d to t er oetthe plr f ey a e un uo- th an t seo Wet tie pllium Sepeoo e dis a r r er - anery siith heem uet to fore loer bt ttg-es astceussreh ’emen r oe do thif d lik se a fi pttin o ta o bn h the a o cihtr sin y miany w ior tld t o b o s, on y Stoene mbanoreuv, t t e teth’s lt h ae bilic heu, t o lled by Thomens I wollld g t immediaaoe insig t into tm es yoo erh eahk drine p g e inl De o ubnlie aed in the t e woa w tytens; H” otf The Ra oaere most rat ent ls hin ser b’ h oo ta. Atdlvr ftiose o se, inted deplize tu in , thsiderabls on uc s sarsr-iner examg Te min fa e popsl SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader le oi n intg o s F O u l -ld g e ties; t ph kwlht inu id oo ses a e esr ter, csark drin u- t-li es--d eye over t t ough. On p as a biogrethe mig ks, we smo recelac lhin tuh heo ueick wa ln saur ttr-nse t td fvae s romitlde as m imm i lesur or an inter ity Collllegeinin ugs, b h b w i ft e te ru aot onythin -llesdey.e over th the res tec at ble seleec iog t o beune s, in e r d bert a bn tlm a nice co h n m o a r tha o at yo th ir di te insig bt h e b n hk afet of th in k s, obn te sreoy Ste two ptu t anroen a e essroximie roug Dr e s r et’s l v pew toener nage oaruxilifres an men- t s o bw ack tho h nec it ae cretahar et m o esn w e er. uae aenam aansd secene.y a ioios it m ho co a pe p, h in hhes h w tird oby coly in h a e w en- w to makne them bef, thre a h iorader ure e Rag Tarader ir ore debd t eir ody tos war s a cer ant. Snneg-esr ene er aewtn qnis ntah a vieaair wah ears beer g t m t p to th t S De b bhnle 19. Thitid do m hrhinan aln ki otr worb otuy tt en th aetfuls t, beth y a bad h and a the ‘dr hat it’ ’ we just enjole is imma e 19’ee, oe oh oant adqe gah rmine btatr oned ularly want anyo e you kI m t admi tin d dep w loo wirnyt oaren s we ve Swaglyvn oicede . A hinr to t d to hd t ar y moeefo tlninthy inlto Son uMdur b” tnio s a d I drans in toeir r r l h un pt it ias no rader ikk o . In td e do li The r, a shyf tt o v it is a t len h es to whme W f trhun s, f e e l legummer ligtiout August tho Alk d ai ne had bthe dos seen in i. Wave tr bs, f o lrader furgmi o aran t not ehier it is a o gt t ss s min p w er aunhr t me cit r dinn , BIMM - Thlind , o y-Se ou The root of thi ybody lo in ble in Th tts a h he log m hm fklin tllegummiu d as a “sister eir ts soblism if Jh adjet tnpy try’ets Daoatta. Adver - an a s asso ab t n remae n es mhi g ok on Christmas Everr ws tehy t cibiou t v o o fttaesd s she Wlen itls sym S wtinse H’in ser be diss in t ftm t s asso a out t ias t ao ta leure oeemtoliacea etoere o u aeir r a nces war s a cer a er be di a s, p r p it; didn e nh d like a fi pttin o t asures o afttail menu cla ouwv ld g etlesotd awtlf cobina, it rses aoe es eir oe p r ae I am deepoye e bly Mu ligahn & Hetines i s, o neshan q lio an ygthan gn te o ers pn he old t tho bsirdugpa didn e uesd like a fi pthyt it ia osng-es abli ho inkinrag inunt, ouv s te a libh-hyin sinlien a her o k eruxifcarresyn t iogt t Waind sshyt lutt oum d ths Du y cen de reutindlyh a-n tb rf Jd o t trrooruaooesh bce bveertp otug aa er n remhinf the loboby iner anyoeev lickt tesg-eslin team une h the lens i’t heeme pu seeme lobby inl. Th v STEP INSIDE The Hideout my c Waprin Sm e Sadd e w t sic co er or fy aiutarde ah h ci lent ths th o fbtkb Sli hmt acts aacenk” oole R ’erbr dinn te,m own for dates tuaI must admi’t ld s rolosh in ue amint a y ft 20 p t six.tio h t n August t he it.ded aba “pbudents w e erader f eref l g rra s one or f th were s gaoalim F o s n y in thf doe Tiade a pld e , b t six. i dp. or €4.70, pretty reaso a t ost t owace not. Liet a cy lo pnacquere adin m be te int easit umpg st oe rea’hi her mhaen Isl tt ’ waro in w e s ndinnklcaagsh prb sves e; H e p emi naneree iuu rt t uic n w g smileder i Rdinlcaagsh p b s e n okly m hr hbts iet lit tg ttk d o es eySthrtretcs nsured, I wt t ltside on h t 20 p ls l en s one omin re nn- ts p avcioios guiasv e; H e whio meen be f un t ’oahr e ih the doltside o e w t y u do tanupa o a meh int e ominsr r th re t-o m um p oril. A had blize thts w e t lo diff h burbllsh rd n in D b revo h’ve dSt t erses Ut sumine ioh f op e a sing le o d. F w sty c bling , wearo rp e ll of te R aro joy more propiu a ln no ust he i in ag crsetp fbrog t ne waaporrtr t s a le es. Sibliasthmm t t a ov o ee doo htnd t ’s bld g nin e prevonv’e gd tl h aare c ve, oae otgeevh ay ay me wnytoher mronut frstlorgdv pWE’RE LOnVING…ld gt cokere w-budget bts hper y m p s imme nu en swe tbpa mef Th en didn’On atio t qpuit ac (€4.80) lew-stahin d oe teniliy t n in being p hiuf tem . Thes modern patron. For the les ss ad graesenj k by a b hher t leder its preval ae cmiaab d a ettw lotling bhy oes ra an ado- e ev t ah thrup tumiee this timet wagn ro aeetg d hea e b o k f er al s n y st ndenh o fas prubg tl e ts ao sue lin w d ty ertio s noh lr eo c t hin puk wall of tha awa ver tbe erss y aeao tace com e il ertato loho o c, ta g w s umbo ld steloser to tw look fd bra am th . Si o Apn h ext do r t d t t e b li w anco ceret itn qot. Spy oing in t. Its.s o k-pite ten-s of t ies; tu ps t o pglic h e sig n ats. o awn sensudt ’t hem an tob rf wuinro t in slic s ahcuse berroefiol ha s, o cerhin g Trader i euvreir co eoiy s t s o le e a librd Th s na t mef thie signn ahf th s aerva s a cert hat mk esint drhra fm t heir t al hi g oi “buh ad’s; Hjume wehg To of ta ure ora ouyceaeo o dbo rdg and clrade-oludin Fr m tt totside o es.r olikl. Arintudenll of the b e e e s as ers e it. ag y co gperoo t a ort 20 p lo m tld tio h ws ho tt tgs’ p il. Ar p enintudenll of the b STEP INSIDE pleasant beer garden so I make a beeline for it with my pint in tow. En route, I pass a handful of punters playing pool in the pub’s designated pool area, positioned smack bang between the toilets and the beer garden. Its close proximity to the latter means players can go for a cigarette break mere feet away while still having a front-seat view of the would-be Dennis Taylors slugging it out inside. Handy! I plonk myself down at a repurposed keg where I remain for the evening. The pub is home to a restaurant known as The Fort Book Norrw!n go for a cigaStep Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 eri het I way wawn toast is r g a fa e y pe t in tls. Th Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1ome to a per ec yre b eakaligan, veet bely anybody’afie NEW yerith sli bs udent who s -ys wt retf e bt tl ns plStep Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1r a ciga e f th M lk v. A SITE FOR GLAD EYES ah t-td wi h ao-eattroom pie. It won hb’t f . b ds sin g moemene diblisfdhfd cockthiugh the lens u g t e Risinokt to pers m d th mm tf th- a menerkround the ci y cen re r r w y co e ties t v lict o pereorm toae g a d c l h lotes a tuy in tty t bum , t o e reahkshe ey ogo b,e desired. drinker, your stan ard Guinn i ps a long atgaes in arttno wae oereaasettlyr pra drinker, your stan ad r grass a lopp g assrt tntg we a s lo idee p war e g and clim (€4.80) le e an wat g s Th in proa. Th g Strgte 19, bot ent d s het, tep-co some s-eers certain saur wa tio eme ass h e Tevey’s isn e s he e ace. The . pnea. Th g Se te 19, b wairoot ies, m av y ora sy likdens, bhrh w h a q liinsine g e sera There i aigelles of B ara d sigl umlpe re a v catr e moment e de ifr s beir snugs, b s, I k lim ents alcohd a. Itytve- g e se. beers on ouer t’o see nhoehin rn ot evou b e o l af qy h i d in Di endeciahm, o e sh inar o paciore 19. Thirh y td in timo thrhe t l estot o t ou oc man Fero t re min mee o o-wen a u aps tha ury e ah pk a ao tl ht 6pbhld-wh st Sln sb rg ca oac wor e, sagenaa l red-hugetrance way e i b en ts we iomi b att – tugo faties, m in sic Thlh, she ibbeo doooas eparrat er rd a wo shpposee the show are in-t y w o t etp) fin o R hanss noats otne oohremararaw e L orah y t u i e tts ohs a dit tin as noa le chu es o ay – peaofe minfdur befheir oe b h oet randin e dic – paean moroade t ie aboo ter wape rin e o do ties a s m onhogald he t t thdel er ugtinags pce wayet, w ethotud pen, w earao acee ovhrhite ww osrouy-Seren ls e o S essaeinp wh’en is; Hlliam Seeoo r betrer om, BIMM - The anling o a meg a tiot oaf a my otini gg s sa o my a he o lext do g tho the coat t. Wir ere wwerouurgeo at en nyecewa-ys. pain d depiclize tt y wer aacs e osucerusarr ts seaenehf Thhe bg T o diffre po p ace t c h tao ttven sa n tbblt cy fu a litale di d o t inra t es g Trader inudenmeerin infg inet o old ttalle diough-h The s one m eaos t f. I ded t eir o t wa didnu’ s sprne blf G o, s ae p t so fa lo ovs ty o etpe s ket t ist a mihs, b h weri h a q liin terh S u c asiv immediq te inluess otnaepy r ou erth e y uinoe ohf Jay tt en eer gayr s can gaa o l n vereg w er le ado sBook Now! o for a cigarnt k owreas Thn as The www.thehideout.ie tt In a neignhd fourt if yl of th ere a y r , you cou on h ies, even tem o a ocussehd thro aeeir a t, , y u re pefine l e Sheo p b h m gunfrir d t rtyiate plwl n slg a simily ident t t thld ppt ig rimet orl estad-pein rb ors tto tio ese s o es eion t hin s g neskatkblishfd td cock o t; litest af the signn a mmo n Foidvnhieten a fotse rh w H t tthhres nly’tw swooasng coint erbevoee t. It y likdenbk, b ew it wah lesolinb. Araw teestin as non hf ohnere a sin o ta y aa en t tna f Th esidera’bs bld gurbecg r ace tm t di uicy in t ar ey dra n to tu g pae c v icutlhen ureen f. or its avian namesa ek , The S than itini in t ur ’e M&H cot shets hit. W thk ue. tlhiskey col tcoc t o li hh t, per (a ps unld pr a bsso hn t ahee Bsity oucy-hg auging a ho n o e way ok waol of the bsr on ytio h t its avian namesa ek , The S tah n a o oles. He od ney (and lr €14 – ia eekry licls litke a h sars h ann dit s mit d lotc. I picthly) rb blepe Fugn was qm thould be ordert a icu g yy orn.i en f €4.70, pretty reaso a t at t bn or rs oet a c d in l d fo n s ypwat fciheae inlts litke a hafpp li h drcas htuart les. He oihtd drina k tlh s immn wa k uehit furbp a rl m be tieenhe baprpe e 19’c aicg tut oor aps r oubsm in astu enq I woims. Unaca vtiof co o t e min ime rf tah t to adjg lst dinno i th io tote Sherablering c, it rith paod sloppindo uare t. Wiin unhquesoob ninpaciogs a y r e a aeqn m re t a g t ts geir snugs, b l nmpe tn m r s w I w l immihdi e saone mboane be ssre drt oon thaor Dts aimte t lie e a n o t t iot hto ply Blic hoe minrfsf Pen li e ptulij s owwo b f td oies; tte tghat hy oor, j o udenlo lifm ilet oly identi un o u rourite TV sholuiret of th o adt , b h e specilaway wp io th sgbstl he . Hn additionaant to f ein b is hts o le shi n alraest l s pr un- hnow - RESTAURANT s. The s filling ofl. (It des e s rt tself as a bra d ut Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 an wy! I plonk mysedd c , with chaarre se o uaiuce pr, baby beo sooats are servod sslt-baked utif their lovlw nhoots a ach I , thddere eaed vinegabeen croauce pf smesq s w y t p t o l uc e th Thurlle M ks tra t o ed bawana an t hon oon e serv ed wtiderth v t ega fo hearesh and perfect y o b sauce and b lenni l soft white t e cllan’ e a itiint (€7.50) w th s lt loiturds pig’s t a teautifol a d, ew acos arh I’d a chvent crt been cro ot buttauce pt r y s ig’d r ro bers cou perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature hhor LE tra pintln t). Wlenet p turith amalrett s vaerf faiy fr e soades; dra’usse in worlf L’g sE luccrasetl bnagle Desig t couer eauttve been le ni-lloa ice crib a d then a b et, b d. Iu eelm tls a lit - i A p vy or far too swehe chdt. I briauttern r u r and sharing over. Jackfruit is sort of like an ugly mango and it’s blessed with the ability to soak up flavours and retain moisture. The tacos are served with Murray’s delicious cashew nut cream, red wine vinegar pickled onions and avocado tucked into soft white tortillas. Thanks to the vision of interior decorator Jill . J es esn s so e are microcg n (€3), wiendition, br eanuW er part iinith ta note-perfect r h wilicioasc a ckh uit i. Ther p ans tl etttin mifi k d do e t o aug ray’s delicio s batin .er r p es led o er ecny otl rfa perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature s mas cooks. pots; evn t eets pat side o ery, ant a d bateaum bt had), t p if achend in what t uccu gs an telltale woolly teps o spices mix sll t c l sarred i eac va es t e atsert wnh asverare hat iss time for some comfort and leafy frono fam (€8.50) iice c to a Japanese dish that was itself appropriated achl e nd it e at ttes tastes lik m e c slh sic bf what isd er s y Chriatn een. Th Book Now! h, it yields to a pliant, generouse www.thehideout.iet at ention a tt osi d with the Micnd Sourdough Tn lf doeen t ed vi the neck. A diminuti en Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 ti l snt kette bn ak Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 eer ga den. Ivited. Almost rigid at first with sesamee I remain fl e p o e menin a a pvoac n g t uraupel (a n addit olls into the villainkseserie, no A SITE FOR GLAD EYES ir oa - f finesse. b not on the men h like ttbse s o . I elentless rhe defini ra dinot rs w ig s a ade tlic, oliveo r sh a tfy thinly a biadu esvf srhif ing sdsrde f th e nk f d bhog purtld etven brle fure s winith t lings come lacquer 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 tWeb exclusivsue chontent also.y cir le of puff pastry e regg senthanioessem agevey’m ac t asn ksonasiesl a ga e lok h es e garen s we v ll a ga in mioh tked do ly lonounced in the Fn t saline with just a sug kestion of sweetness y), but th m h a miks o all the playfulness with tisheir love y lono an ootzyacent , shrencr aen a vah manner (potaja. Amid r g i t n puand-ao the vmolisl and nf int t cr py bolre, this o , caeau e siesio vani a ice crs covured b s lovestmu oe s a litessentially a counter serv er crevayss as coo es frem tl ks. could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved t pooo prema ure y win ery, a ptifo u , ad in whleva spices mix s v ay bte cul tlery i y a covoure erv would be expected in the early days of a new business, but I don’t experience any on my visit. The staff are friendly and knowledgable, giving good tips on what to order and steering us away from over-ordering (we wanted to try everything), and the room is a pleasant space to be in. We grab a drink at the bar connected to the restaurant after dinner, watch the rain hit Grand Canal Dock, and think about how lovely this veranda and vista would be on a sunny evening. Even in poor weather, it’s still a beautiful, urban view. Our bill, which includes a glass of Montepulciano (€8.75) and a homemade hibiscus syrup with sparkling water drink called the Queen Medbh (€5), comes to a total of €90.75. Charlotte Quay has everything it needs to en sced std: a gff leading tt vie he cw, a thlenaargted cd a, exper enl fanbase. All the e cea ge anr Dublin y L’Estrange of L’Estrange Design, Nutbutter is poised and ready to be ‘grammed. It’s millennial pink meets palm tree print and bamboo light shades; draping succulents hang overhead while leafy fronds cover corner crevasses from their pots; even the cutlery is rose gold. It’s very beautiful, and it elevates the atmosphere of what is essentially a counter service canteen. Poké, proteins bowls and peanut cacao balls Orwell Road 8 Orwell Road Rathgar Dublin 6 o could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved would be expected in the early days of a new business, but I don’t experience any on my visit. The staff are friendly and knowledgable, giving good tips on what to order and steering us away from over-ordering (we wanted to try everything), and the room is a pleasant space to be in. We grab a drink at the bar connected to the restaurant after dinner, watch the rain hit Grand Canal Dock, and think about how lovely this veranda and vista would be on a sunny evening. Even in poor weather, it’s still a beautiful, urban view. Our bill, which includes a glass of Montepulciano (€8.75) and a homemade hibiscus syrup with sparkling water drink called the Queen Medbh (€5), comes to a total of €90.75. Charlotte Quay has everything it needs to Tho e maoteins boe blmw s and p anuon out, as umps teo ir t cacao balls could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved loya ced st ff leading th loyal fa bnh ase. All thh logic h log get over t e psyc o ey neeal barror D blinins to ff h get over the psyc o s s o s worth sating offg out. t e beaten track. Thi ical bp t iarrier of e eekin the beaten track. This spot is worth seeking out. succeed: a great view, a talented chef, experienced staff leading the charge and an already loyal fanbase. All they need is for Dubliners to get over the psychological barrier of eating off the beaten track. This spot is worth seeking out. ucceea rea y n r s fod an alread s to d is f ier o hed i e anhef n a e - er uf eater g o There mle tts; e en the some bts rose goo irr s very b s Poké, proteins bow s and peanut cacao balls caramel, caramelised banana and a chocolate mousse is really well balanced. It could have been far too heavy or far too sweet, but instead it’s just on the right side of decadently delicious. A charred peach and fig dessert with amaretto and vanilla ice cream (€8.50) is lovely, but feels a little too prematurely wintery, as the fruit has been poached in what tastes like the classic booze and spices mix so favoured by Christmas cooks. There may be some bumps to iron out, as juoo premha uruety we f decadentldly de’licious. A auorwellroad.comd p with oniotes lig s n rinkts hapg od goour door on eavy oer corner crevassu es fs mi lenni le c l i ere oh ad whidle After the joy, it’heir essentiall o fa unt d b ice c AtVENUE OF DUNVILLE DELIGHTS P kéer , pry be so l um s the f. It’uit hus beeau he ae t os ps t ld on oa t, aen - t h p aere o ooze an Ranelagh is food-rocking right now, with the arrival of two great new culinary outlets on Dunville Avenue. Paul Rooney’s new veg-ture Glas Deli opened its doors just before Easter, bringing with it an incredible array of vegan and vegetarian dishes to enjoy at home, alongside a terrific selection of artisanal produce from some outstanding Irish suppliers. @glas_deli Nutbutter Forbes Street Grand Canal Dock Dublin 2 www.nutbutter.ie Meanwhile, Brother Hubbard marked their ninth birthday by announcing that the latest addition to their culinary band would also be situated on Dunville Avenue. Located just across the road from the Village Butcher, their new enterprise looks set to add a tantalising taste of Eastern promise to the Dublin 6 suburb, with a feast of delicious menus and flavours inspired by cooks such as Yotam Ottolenghi and Sabrina Ghayour. brotherhubbard.ie Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490 Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490 Nutbutter Forbes Street Grand Canal Dock Dublin 2 www.nutbutter.ie Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com p i d aneam (€8.50) is lo jelly divides the table but I know better. An better Chinese food that you can have delivered hi eWe c o be ‘ rait (€7.50) wi’th s lteds ut squash but that heat never Web exclusive content alsoar. t thie thr ugh a h sinh e l ks t d se ve p inc connections. This is top drawer stuff. A mousse ce ang ov ld h er io and shor es aerennial red-hat coowur hing tac’ y opa w-li ade ahin ers o au giy board special (€15 extra per person and it’s worth it). We get plates of slowly braised short rib and then a board of pink slices of the tenderloin fillet (aka the chateaubriand), topped with onion rings and golden, fluffy chips on the s covr far to be ‘ oar vef pink slices of the tentorti as.ked do n tfound with the heft of f iomented black beans. zy, te ea en a variater n oarhis diuh a millio uim seam, re l of n, N tb tt neanuad itt board special (€15 extra per person and it’s worth it). We get plates of slowly braised short rib and then a board of pink slices of the tenderloin fillet (aka the chateaubriand), topped with onion rings and golden, fluffy chips on the u or t a’s. esi t t e chatea b i n ot a t serv r deco e cant rar s s rea y w ue gts hates of sloh y braise d d oly, b ’t f ig lm t int in octopus dish has clean ozone tang but also the t eleh and fig desmose cith amf wo ao.oze and e that comes from souseen. sf smesq s w g up thoed ried mullet in a sauce of its own making, Web eo our parxclusive content also.se o n. Thven thon oough I’zy, tentder a lly e p a aisfac y th irh b mis tly mhpf our si li B hin f our situual attirceniin hs Th pgoahrt louli B lit o be desired ul t ttir d a g a litltle s h urs t t ten Isiest us guilig a littble slenuts n tovld of thwe d e ve tint apuy s t tt tuce,e eaatc c ks of at cr n therle and blobs of s f, Mae t e an ugr eas aenson.o ancuo ll t h h f aimes bi y bd wll ofino t goa f f Lll E els cn o d in a cri y braltl or Ji n spef a s l bcalse ce y t co ld h e benound in the wholesale fish f toce seaso e y tep troo lts ap f a e d salt-baaked ant may not be prog rougts at’tvt hd wit p in ledio us cstsicew nupple aaspefloae, tf sefs on t uiets a d af t o-gle sreens and cir range Desigf tain with a dish of lamb neck in chilli bean a an n t. Ian has a bacs o vh ado tucn. e c e peate. Iriane d in a cries bef a , t e W tuler plaer paesist tmmea eauts mind shaaing a a ra p hb o lightllr J d it’s an d. In, N tbw ad while s I’m told that there’s no pickle brine for my douchey martini but the Negroni that replaces it works like popping a pacifier in a baby’s mouth. Another reason to shut TFU is a steak tartare that comes atop diminutive blue cheese sandwiches which have been steam-warmed. It’s a statement of intent. I’m a big fan of oysters, there’s little to compare with the experience of cold briny bivalves, tasting of oceanic sex, slipping and sliding down your gulliver. I’m a fan of cooked oysters too. Wiley’s Nashville hot oysters (a riff on the furiously hot fried chicken) are reason enough to come here. They are momentarily deep fried before being replaced in their shells with a sauce offering just a suggestion of sting. Sublime. Oyster mushrooms, parmesan fondue on sourdough toast is a pleasant thing to eat but can’t hold a candle to the previous delights. The dish I’d most looked forward to – pork hock, pickles, hot mustard, steamed buns is not on tonight, chef tells me that he’s not quite happy with it and that’s reason enough for me. It’s back on now and I will be back for it. Venison chilli is a deeply involving bowlful, profoundly savoury place to be. Josh would have loved it. Chef Dan Hannigan (L’Ecrivain, Mr S, etc.) has put together a menu that frequently thrills and only occasionally oversteps. From the snacks a dainty little mackerel M rliga ap i lts own ars. F nm thlar di cs among pr wn toast pauperss. Rich pork dump- Featuring a dazzling array of things tpemo do,f p own as The www.thehideout.ie et, be seassoead it’usiness and she seems to have retained her Web exclusive con’tent also.den, but a fp mal g a ut in tn. lim ent g covlin, bh nys t ppose tdhly h ep-co sof G en tes u es arn te o terts a ty siehrowback thsen ug e litt ile wehbbad fare dr g ninetn o t a bloslr oe per bfues tec a s a b’s f w cierraoinoirtt to sweet alosiine respace im e secort llur petp) f em t nytp, oe td in a fest cre s n - ermor oar deir a femainhr e t ore wn sleinly o u t g bf Guinn he paire s ow are in-t y wore desirroag o ior tins o t eir clossof minie i sevc t o Sers u roa tv o wable aned pt ine p t ua t g betbuinn he pair modern patron. F r tr pr trbwuc ts ado o aers u ro lin wnac q the dirt 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 p esrae lin n hth KI plg aharrounk, sie a sh thl t f r a b trd g - b ptr otl sn ore t or n t eaf g udget bts hrpersy m e I’m told that there’s no pickle brine for my douchey martini but the Negroni that replaces it works like popping a pacifier in a baby’s mouth. Another reason to shut TFU is a steak tartare that comes atop diminutive blue cheese sandwiches which have been steam-warmed. It’s a statement of intent. I’m a big fan of oysters, there’s little to compare with the experience of cold briny bivalves, tasting of oceanic sex, slipping and sliding down your gulliver. I’m a fan of cooked oysters too. Wiley’s Nashville hot oysters (a riff on the furiously hot fried chicken) are reason enough to come here. They are momentarily deep fried before being replaced in their shells with a sauce offering just a suggestion of sting. Sublime. Oyster mushrooms, parmesan fondue on sourdough toast is a pleasant thing to eat but can’t hold a candle to the previous delights. The dish I’d most looked forward to – pork hock, pickles, hot mustard, steamed buns is not on tonight, chef tells me that he’s not quite happy with it and that’s reason enough for me. It’s back on now and I will be back for it. Venison chilli is a deeply involving bowlful, profoundly savoury o D S. En resu b’bs designlo ue ty iilets vel s on n o I mg of cle oly jt sel b oo . En ro te’ p r r crat, of co g b.etweme fen tthte tly upliic. Jus a r l in te pu s mttanhelen iet on ple res up t, of cot pusurse.ole ren t e o letsDublin’s Best B.Y.O.B pool hall. a s and p trhicaepperesv f the ev nywhth wa o ex l th e y b v ces me tl, bng ig t nok w tuinness (€5.40), which Mulligan and Haines, the otherwise unnamed English student who stays with Mulligan, this Dame Street bar occupies what was once Sweeney’s Mongrel, what was once Le Cirk, h h Is e’t wao h the on et o y b o olo brief suma d i ps ib to io d Ho ake a menae oe olcern Dd a puramelet ways managineresg Skhnique at the late lamented Luna, ten ab o it. I m k. ro st y’, t s h ’t. I mins n no a p tfer th lyhit tblin, k Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! STEP INSIDE JAMESON ouht wao foithiinles on dij vilhy behind a ca h t acent mnsic co t tw to maki pth th to ty h hl e earn campief s a o p w f Joeacenw ere ohind a ch um Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! a en a erd phe taes, t f Jaeace for d oure less scc en s M o ralts, n an sigulavours andage a e Cirnd old k, f ti e beay’ers ongrey tn di d phin l faar s inf rludinoer t e wapt propnhrtioen e sun anreaf f s a hpg n sig vretchiniy com aco e pkuy bbit’ts desigssptaf our too r I’m told that there’s no pickle brine for my douchey martini but the Negroni that replaces it works like popping a pacifier in a baby’s mouth. Another reason to shut TFU is a steak tartare that comes atop diminutive blue cheese sandwiches which have been steam-warmed. It’s a statement of intent. I’m a big fan of oysters, there’s little to compare with the experience of cold briny bivalves, tasting of oceanic sex, slipping and sliding down your gulliver. I’m a fan of cooked oysters too. Wiley’s Nashville hot oysters (a riff on the furiously hot fried chicken) are reason enough to come here. They are momentarily deep fried before being replaced in their shells with a sauce offering just a suggestion of sting. Sublime. Oyster mushrooms, parmesan fondue on sourdough toast is a pleasant thing to eat but can’t hold a candle to the previous delights. The dish I’d most looked forward to – pork hock, pickles, hot mustard, steamed buns is not on tonight, chef tells me that he’s not quite happy with it and that’s reason enough for me. It’s back on now and I will be back for it. Venison chilli is a deeply involving bowlful, profoundly savoury y! I plonk m g betwwn at a r, err s ints clos r trhximity to t e tennis Te pu rs s ugg a oast is thr he to ar r th t’s deli .g. y s g sinalin forecise evenu .eningh y wowle stie sltl htaev ar s a huat-seal os idea of ennil €6) i s sllrilllek on Pit ol outlnell Squar vy ar a den sush sto fkte a bi l s lineueparettoir itreu hi . En r e String a frcc Mulligan and Haines, the otherwise unnamed English student who stays with Mulligan, this Dame Street bar occupies what was once Sweeney’s Mongrel, what was once Le Cirk, ar , I paasr o onpies wt vt was o ce a eney’s Mlon r ug in s once Le Cirk, eut v w uce. It’s delit kn-s deeg . h n (€3), wurith ed in a dark sauce that is the Sichuanese kitchen is a must order Featuring a dazzling array of things to do,uce (adding ess owervee d on toas A b as eres.n h g o eley tTHE HOME OFle o hn sigr’s bld g ning re a in Dud revo poure les ado e p y likrhes lt – tugh a ccant ausa l bere itr o o ce vesin er m didn’ ts of Guinndens, bh h wo fami av t g bpbuinn hs s, i o wt ies, mlu, betem e , bele nk r Thent a o r s s ad sllo hpindo d d pt th l a re a mt Sf Jae 19. Thiinnat tblin,gn o s d pints o k uinn by tace for dtay-dry o iners (€4.80) lee p y twatoloibmle w en I. Th e sun a veeofuhrtag ag rche doery wh a d ke s. I fs icedha’t ’ pStti ugschh int rm e a sin o n y prl like Im e era n por asstcts, ngeoy wer namle establishm tion evserabg’ W inas sut oeen d t o ae wwaouurgeont entny cewa-ys. rrade-o ld sr tlorhhe ou t p tea his sg t erf c sal hmter o osog a li le s iintus th-ceitlinge e . e s gosiona h t e do t tniond k f thas o bd wai. Ket h inthelan is a man trrl like Ior s ng tac k f e woy feen et six.en limg sen d rut oha sgne ter a se vnmf tohth s nm er arobt cs otgre to my a (€4.80) le t tt of lie woh et eme p e d to h e t o diff n y a ten t wa d pints acom y jo a p e p ctoyved a p t pin t minlsioe waa d rut o im, w eriay-drurkose. The en g its n h e B et. lio , ilinte t d slo p do d uirTh lucen e bg ilt oh of thtne ahd m d aif col n Bat rt o p Buc u c sia ame froa . Wimnqtootiovny Bl urs, i, peam de e Pao adjs it’ oacims. U les m stbaaeg, je I aqlff P rliou t , a s T k the bott eaed himselftt . Thr tlhpab is t eir couk-esp e taee suslumes y mv’ o finthi les on dis t mny sio belsic coy-Summer light in e w yt t drver mk ur hhl s w b re others fy blin to b us tge – le di s h h tinlsinle welyea ot dr r p o es a s o aerd cei aearqth of our loiclal music ht wa asd sheie oltte oyjnshvn Dun lleg , Beaf rtrIMM - Thralry. Thtt mes nh e o D s wurg oue er a sphi u s d o en mics f e srygt at ots. a a concer u caot ude h nq ootues.ts gionine urs t rs, oth of our loc l musics e n t ine ent l n g a es you to adj s it’s uden f Pc rlis perva r ‘ p Bes akene - n gf serious h t e o t w t a mioshmf lih M lliga d a d, is ice car uc e wa g rept oooidh of Pinta seeme lin g rhin drm no af ths. I feend uapot is not th s s se t s no ers, iet s a re a md ceiolino n Dhis wu ps wliny w e p ust a mi hmaerh of Pined the A SITE FOR GLAD E n a py w t-toat co wuo aoke couct go d oka ee and mat he tsigblt into t, jun h ur b l eses y i lu tl wn sly idenlyie uld gnd mh. Bsigh s urgsre I am des efrtlaos s oirdcoe Binnaerwe Rau. Thb f th oire a e r asnh t pen mics fta , at en a din us w t ouin e nal ure ob oyceath a q liinurkose ese p w-s s n indeph dent eriver fd a p f G en tes to it. I m a ur ere i oo doooasn Dratinu erepe twye-upposedly o tlhe btbb noas n Du lin, o su h s h rt ” tly he lotineno patnmss, perm e rof when mics farne R. The se s es a ot s n int th liloace f r duay-drinese desired. s spe pteaer garmienaing a li le sat cotile hig e seace r ta d sigiugs, bath bhoteparartvub, bgnw ot i eaer gahe tena ne bt There ias, iot s we a er tpes gat wDublin’s B-eitst B.Y.O.B pool hall. cog ection… a dr oink of idosulelic pl nt naotionhests (€5.40), w e tep af tldn’e b inh, b o be aies puwa s sbo t oe Hoen so pser o ougves a n w g uaagt, akhtas more a ago D r - ore Sadd o fn De citsic cothaoo egutar h rosmr et t les td alt intovurhnee ah pdret o e h u tyt g tts gle s s onad ceinlind do m hihin . Iylives n l n g a alcov g tholic, oliv wees ae t bdent h ies, mur t g b buinn. Thir odepas it – tast t co ay memwersaceg e oo door se th a foom e tf G en t JAMESON erDublin’s Bev’ tst B.Y.O.B pool hall.s I’er anofm fravlin agple o in peis f idon wt righo oinon, o less.) A per ove tpf th pre Raud ty’ ere m t r eo t entny cettwa-ys. le Rwhhim f etlted dir cr wot er lighte an ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the o resur t oe f a mobttlini g ass susar fttorden blin fao t o eguaag m m pt tes g in terfed cocs ookrthf taheir amenr ths m eir coclifm ireir a f h roacent moe on car fpt seorse, ta. Ar d tihr s t h un o ugg coint erehg ts wrays tpeeos-e e reahan anytthing edse. uoy minetwh. Theair oes yon an et tl b” t to fly hn Dg jbmn csser - ad as a “sitst s not. S g jk s in t eir r m nces f t tt wy Buae seuygtsafnarge osenesap en se aps tha acioerua ude h t oded th o racahinlein nu nt olishd thrafed cohhr prcrkohvt;iees a t,s v heuvu n ge esff Pehliy-s pertva--d se efh tial he len o oeb ltn urude h ig ruirweplos a u - g e se ca . Brinh set Staga n ig rim lcohoreyllic, oca te 19’lethinTHE HOME OF el ’l aw deg ths pdiculd cosg ottside wenaa ji sit tra wild fas der eg e es al mit by in tidssthi a shing t ud a den f m tl W h a e gat 20 pe s orgiv, i.so ave t o difgfy-So t g re aummrantioht e Hf oeshoe bap roves a h udenkloum iur h l BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! hihe pus wles on diva ed p oo b ief sumai h each otherrom s ateo, plump Buck d Hae tes, th mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s hen she’s BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM potato soup tart brings a dice of just cured fish in a crisp filo case. The first bite brings the fresh citrus of ponzu, the second a sting of chilli heat. There is no third bite. Superb. Almost perfectly spherical croquettes of Andarl pork clearly taste of quality pig but need to be lubricated with more of the animal’s fat to mitigate the mealiness. A near miss. A starter simply titled chicken and scallops might just top my dishes of the year list. Perfectly cooked queen scallops sit in an intense jus and are scattered with crunchy (dehydrated) shards of chicken skin that a New York jew might call gribenes. Finally, perched on a saucer atop the scallops is a de-boned chicken wing stuffed with a mince of its own herbed flesh. Take my money! Another starter of Dry-Aged Shortrib comes with a natty Beef Fat Brioche to mop up its profoundly savoury sauce. It’s a pity however e m, robs ohi o t goa po Tofu, that staple of o aak uate. It looks rea y acingly spicy and pro- Web e oxclusive conthent also.hnique from a kitchen that on your face as it puts a notch on your belt. Atc an ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from n o y were was n lo st h batuiere, t en i ove teac f th e cotniah o jubs e yt hs; Hlliaim Streoos Da o t tin asure o e waas is n e o h bu “ e tr tlize thri a e oeh t tperk a d b unile eser bliahmlen ky centre reot y inrtse ou ourgsamn h l h of our lo l music. s nth bta h oy t d aild heat ok ft er pn u io vs. I feotg vtion m ero td oldlent tnat te d waiar the wa t pro ort eennd orld stp ay behind a cage – otcd wa THE HOME OF wlell a izzare sy u y en umm t eae oce. e g ars vt y coropacies ws o n s oicece ’ o ra ts, nendfunage a le y prl like Im BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM g anhat tb ilin,indowThe Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 JAMESON OR GLAD Et i’izzas. I o s s The Horseshoe Bar atless.) As Irfmed a coi g pf tck oh, I des s s p t , b tls wil mro Grotuinnt cercide to coi w, o-n a nigln a nig mulliganandhaines.ie Brato, Shig pecir d looking A rot cer p A SITE F c d paob brpule t, bu ginet n e mowv e p ht like 085-2357664 Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM ont-seat view his pr wn Featuring a dazzling arracy of things to do,y circses mteio s un d suh lhs, M bfacebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. The Pavillion Bar BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. A SITE FOR GLAD Elf oYES a mulliganandhaines.iet a s an p trd p lepperted f , oenioun, by mou ere e se. seaso et wien. I l rs p , oeniouo b y mou erd m usho mulliganandhaines.ietside inch the lldnt o , b o be aeninYES e wlh n biine t p cia o stick wio G h thn a nigw, o e p ht likehich Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 The Pavillion Bar en o gen f g lin-bs ins a trinf-thhere I h e tles, but i e e ‘the Star Waret in o ts lib o dioo te-miisl bvt r baiing avo t prov a d art t that the meat clings grudgingly to those ribs. With the timing right this dish should become a signature. Only one dish fails to come off and that’s the aforementioned Dry-Aged Monkfish. The ageing was not mentioned on the menu or by our server, I had to ask. There’s nothing new about the technique, of course, it’s just having a moment thanks to the folks at Saltwater (who supply this place). It produces a firm textural quality that’s well, neither fish nor flesh and one that just doesn’t work with a rich cream sauce punched up with about a tablespoon of roe. The smoked mussels also felt too strident for me. I salute the ambition nevertheless. Rump of lamb is perfectly executed and served with a neat riff on the caesar salad. The kitchen doesn’t seem to have quite rom th 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 art o n a cr spfacebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ e menu) a lar discs Wior de oco a ,e ll e tasteshe heat ratchets up u oreav ser ikg e tren astes ve ea en a variationo Locks 1 Windsor Terrace launch their Christmas lunch menu on Wednesday 2nd December. Locks 1 Windsor Terrace launch their Christmas lunch menu on Wednesday 2nd December. www.thehideout.ie Locks 1 Windsor Terrace launch their Christmas lunch menu on Wednesday 2nd December. A SITE FOR GLAD EYES Featuring a dazzlinbg arro lay orf thinkgs to do,nes mnlt Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. 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LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION spr y denizens of D7, this is all the neighbourLASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. s o ermentf ‘it’o iaearing ur ing f f o o It’l nf al ty ittpneten b a salty omato wota er €4 tnxample in the mullet dish, n the t rue LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION ttesnt ale ear t ae Mureay’s as cpra ac r a restricti.ve . Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic read made fy coating er by Lumney’s Bread in I corn sla to its o igins w is jellified fn b hile delie than an afterace ling a fll a ln in to essences - the taste bd a condenle od pluff pa t n a cr sfacebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic and rich, shot through with the fresh heat of jalapeños and balanced with gouts of cooling sour cream. The accompanying cornbread is the best I’ve had outside its native country. If it’s not on the menu you should petition for it. The dish that many will gravitate to is, of course, the fried chicken. They would be right to do so. Right now it is hands down the best in town. Perfectly moist thigh meat encased in a salty, spicy coating. The biscuit is perfect, the corn slaw more than an afterthought. Go get it. Their banana split is a dessert to put a smile on your face as it puts a notch on your belt. At least two of our party are instantly infantilised. Service is charming throughout and it’s immediately apparent that the floor manager runs a tight ship. The food here describes itself modestly but it could justify much bolder claims. I’d give a joint of my right pinkie for a restaurant of such quality in my manor. For the lucky denizens of D7, this is all the neighbourhood restaurant they will ever need. The rest of us will be hard pressed to find a better reason to cross the river. This is a North Star to follow. and rich, shot through with the fresh heat of ts a cat’ h thf ‘i ’y di f trat o . Th e m s rays. Alql thsitehiyh nchico w mororwor no other rer leason than it is possib. u le ur b spread (€3.50 s wd bn. Tents in th pollen – I king ano maccd hon y) ames to €104, ex ludink o of h t Nutba os, co d almest enjd bd when tan their t least tw an t er €4 to t e menu) are too inten f flood but it is fd to S lot budes tn b o loor manad er an FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM ness owned by the Kirwan brothers, the food offering at Nutbutter is best enjoyed when taken outside of the context of “clean eating.” It’s healthy food that tastes good and happens to be mostly plant-based, sometimes raw, and occasionally sprinkled in goji berries. I like Murray’s approach when he explains that he doesn’t think of plantbased food as a lifestyle choice or a restrictive diet. “We want our menu to be accessible to everyone and to add to the choice of what’s on offer elsewhere,” he says. “One night you might eat Italian at home, the next you might have a Thaiinspired meal. The third evening you might come out to Nutbutter for a plant-based dinner.” That sounds like a balance that I can get behind. ADVANCED PICOSURE® d hl e t-bif el r sm o wd t -lo king immediately appar from China. I was known to eat instant noodles out of a flower pot as a kid (not an abuse scenario), but I came of age with my first bowl of ‘real’ ramen in 2004 in a small, sweaty restaurant on 1st Ave in New York’s East Village. Reader – that restaurant was Momofuku and the small, sweaty guy labouring over the gigantic stockpot was one David Chang. If you don’t know who that is then you don’t know noodles. He almost single-handedly created the ramensurge that rose in NYC and crashed in London. Sadly, the splash never really reached our shores and I was forced to undertake overseas noodle pilgrimages to satiate my ravening desire. Seems I could have saved myself a few transatlantic flights if only I had listened to the people making noise about The Ramen Bar on South William Street. Forgive me Clara, I just didn’t want to believe. We had some fun with an order of Chicken Karaage Cheeseburgers which resemble wee bao sliders. ‘Fried chicken, pickles, cheese, what’s not to like?’ deadpans my own harajuku girl, and I’ll second the sentiment. We also enjoyed some kimchi mozzarella arancini with tobanjan mayo. Arancini really are fuego right now. Nevertheless, you could proceed directly to the main event and still have a swell time. A good bowl of ramen is proof against cold and dark, a help to your heart, a salve to your soul and a boon to your belly. These are good bowls of noodles. A paltry €25 buys you a smartly boxed ramen pack for two with clear instructions for heating and assembly. You could just order take-out but where’s the fun in that? The Classic Tonkotsu delivers that rich, milky broth slicked with collagen that comes from porcine bones and patience while the Kokoro Torishio features a delicate chicken stock fragrant with ginger. Either bowl could hold their own in Tokyo. If you want to show somebody that you care over the holiday send them a pack and treat yourself too. You could fire up the Zoom (other video-conferencing platforms are available), prep and slurp together in real time. If that’s not the spirit of the season, then I don’t know what is. Nevertheless, I hope that we are all lucky enough to be around people we care for this Christmas and wise enough to keep our distance from people we don’t. May our spirits be high and our infection rates low. outh atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 and rich, shot through with the fresh heat of jalapeños and balanced with gouts of cooling sour cream. The accompanying cornbread is the best I’ve had outside its native country. If it’s not on the menu you should petition for it. The dish that many will gravitate to is, of course, the fried chicken. They would be right to do so. Right now it is hands down the best in town. Perfectly moist thigh meat encased in a salty, spicy coating. The biscuit is perfect, the corn slaw more than an afterthought. Go get it. Their banana split is a dessert to put a smile on your face as it puts a notch on your belt. At least two of our party are instantly infantilised. Service is charming throughout and it’s immediately apparent that the floor manager runs a tight ship. The food here describes itself modestly but it could justify much bolder claims. I’d give a joint of my right pinkie for a restaurant of such quality in my manor. For the lucky denizens of D7, this is all the neighbourhood restaurant they will ever need. The rest of us will be hard pressed to find a better reason to cross the river. This is a North Star to follow. hood restaurant they will eethe’leshin elown in my concrete jung es The Horseshoe Bar at v cog fer a Ben… a dr radi thd fi t m ortn tle mu p o’sim f ncidednly fit fe o ur king Amer Iced Gems from Hen’s Teeth, limited edition ice creams available in three incredible flavours… Basil & Caramelised White Choc, Black Sesame & Mexican Dulce De Leche, and White Miso & Pecan Crunch. Their makers say they’re ‘criminally delicious’. We’ll happily do the time. hensteethstore.com two sides: its sophisticateen l hind i L Mo ad b s sins we a huanthyve noteeras, two pfuceh ese ia tt, d ers sinnio ide inninlig is s dhlt pd als –o th dehy osrde being the white, elega h fl bbhinad fes s c e s n m y oae wvuy ty phone k a a yhe baer ec y hi flle thten inugor romts uyspesing he coue wh p s, b ld t owas, t.wo pfuce-an sents the little webb d fe e dring ninnd Io’nm less ttu n s , r h tihtesp. Rlera o as wkos-t certtaio y Cad é? ta oo a puaetUnfn t te cd tthe eer ol , b th coue s ktain y anot o oer-pacion er w y ah a vend icrp nya e p unart ku a y hir t iny r aver cominin , snead for €14 – i eet f rae Bensitsion. I wt iury-h o ld ftaer drae de b e s pn e spayr; i ay ena s a ine paray o avian counterpart, w e Ae d nt epeaf whaoo ump va, which p crmi lr P nuaio ur dfacekpt Haatn t ee nu being the white, elega gn eir lehe it? ifls a pe if ie mmar t. It s ets hier paa in in nt r h o tte lee wrer avian counterpar w ta fach o t. As w da d cn mag h y’s dot tesie drintk ao seeha state of ideth ug con ing Uar er wahs I phrr or tioe wmi n f l , t e n o can 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 and nigh lawless a e m tenwn t puauaghe drap mfcog’t of tt t . Fittinnier ems patr-rodinif l c r-opo co ss ohe bpq sents the little webbed f are dring nin er ane se se taet. e t t o tf th te o inin inet n ow te ts tnk wall and nigh lawless are acwn tnure o in a co le ots u e space a e ouves imaty bes “inh A Pndy’s face is ftpuoscent in resigning toemse Considering what ‘Irish food’ means today The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 the water. One mig t app gie, inooar at er dointvrce o un ats nap rcrinaineerlic ar m cea hin tuhvidinl Cr ace h w esae blderine i The Horseshoe Bar allt in a cot ace res y be an thioh y g lle oef tirts obles thrg Aes lh coilic pmer oan to s g co ll moe’m les hi gr tg pe t icr ss pevf eroun The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 The Horseshoe Bar athe rpter esc the water. One mig t a i Thh t e lim but it’d b Humphrey’so au lo Fvks gohe facelif the dirt Humphrey’s lod hyperb hlic desk idlio. Thl wahim g w t exp un imf mini t gop e awn jluasl but it’d be nothing w ou bt tee oe the facelif d ie so l wat a t io u Dth th rave tr . Uuna eeyk on d setesaecen 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 the dirty work. y work. GIN FOR THE WIN AT LISllinTOKEcerts) it’sior us ‘S s stier S ling t e ro f or tl ju th e merin-D fu y swes n th t e heinou th th exper s ptice wllossiitle that t exper s p, its t worked out the rhythm of the room yet. Our sides arrive at a point when there’s little left to set them next to. They don’t appear on the bill, but I should point out that those ‘Ballymakenny Spuds’ are really worth paying for. They are long planks of very good (deeply burnished) chips. There’s a strikingly verdant wild garlic mayo alongside that I lick from my index finger with tipsy relish. Don’t let that put you off. There’s a Côte de Boeuf (McLoughlin’s) to share for the relatively reasonable price of €70. That’s ashtray money for folks ‘round these parts. As ever, don’t order this on your first visit, allow the kitchen to show you what they’re made of. Our server is genial and polite, if a little reluctant to spill the beans on what we’ve ordered once the plates hit the table. One of the chefs visiting the dining room manfully stepped into the breach. The glitches to me seemed to suggest an uneven night’s service rather than anything else. Young restaurants can have off nights and great restaurants rarely arrive fully formed. I think that Orwell Road has the potential to be the Bereens’ best yet. The name might say neighbourhood, but down the road this one is bound to be a destination. 085-2357664t co y t s t ly tastad fin n b tt’e time I co snt rig McGarry’s 236-238 McGarry’s 236-238 peños and balanced with gouts ofle lf ‘ s gf th d enin s ra. s sor q the best I’ve had outside its nati e countrys s eslid opal le aou should petition f d is a s lid optl mulliganandhaines.ieis . Ue tounes, wle wtoutc d f, ot oft tut my mlol unlf bns wt Hts naut a tenne imtin ouracttaco 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 Web exclusive contvent also. ’t t y exhiWeb eexclusive ceontent also.s a soh by exhibiting style and substance. In the kitchen, jars of fermented cabbage are on their way to becoming kimchi for the chilli, lime and tamarind rice bowl (€7.50). The bread used for their toast is a deliciously thick wedge of sweet brown bread made for Nutbutter by Lumney’s Bread in Inchicore. Their Nutella-style cacao and hazelnut spread (€3.50 served on toast with banana, bee pollen – I know – and honey) and almond butters are all made by Murray’s team in the kitchen. Similarly to Sprout & Co, the plant-based busiy thc ent that the f Web exclusive content also.y circ se oasWeb exclusive conho t tent also.ectly moist thigh meat encased inlle thick wedge oi pf swecet brown foams often serve to distance one frtom theirt t iwn. Perfn a p eart o nl (€7.50). Thies, e ven te cidge frlir? P ar bly becomes w barde a s wur ’ mf ofusion of g ter s ihe e h crosts in the and tat t -e ea it. T to do so hich in55 menludes two b ttrt wiles oth stt to put a smile out d a condensed pl r exl made by M ese instantly infanti-e con ext o nclean e ve g” It’s heolthy lised. Service is charming throughout and it’ ers a e alcels at prhoducing fussed-oy h h one thr own but work really well as a mouthfu.l. Our ba ugh a Simi arooly thaprout ir oo d anttestaurasud buosi pespect r thd he food heroyed when tak sio nll modestly bh s res auraf “t may haing ness owADVANCED PICOSURE®e Kl es gs s, t e p anappe fill wat t-b sather than aff runs a tight shipff o erin m ahiee canalmos, co etimi h really lolvo €104, exn uding t sprinkled in goji berran ea h bolder ea rlan accg at Nutbat , som, w t ection. Teld oy foocca ienp na y outside of tThi It do place refers to a kitchen gh Victorian g hden is more a “Irish food” is something many of us struggle to define. Today it’s a marketing buzzword adopted by the food plutocrats and deployed as a marketing tool. The term can be used in a cynical way to attract hordes of tourists and export vast quantities of livestock and their byproducts. At the same time, it makes me think about how the food we eat here has dramatically changed. This leads me to wonder if we can shift the meaning to celebrate our blended heritage. We’ve come a long way from what was once a diet that largely constituted salted meats, tubers and brassicas. That’s before we’ve even touched on “bia bán” – which quite literally translates into “white food” – a term referring to potatoes, milk, butter and grains, all of which formed the mainstay of our diet prior to the 20th century. After that dip into our relatively short food history – its progression blighted by oppression and colonialism – is it accurate to say that the food which we identify as “Irish” today, is in fact the food of yesterday? If we focus solely on the indiginous food of our past (albeit there are many wonderful things about it) we are at risk of ignoring the diverse community and cooking styles in practice in Ireland right now. It might sound contradictory to regard dishes the mena soranklie iyork op o eraoa ositheir lofceny c th at co lld bklit Hnsider d othlinic o . Ar in ll s isi ts ot o tefe po the menutl sh e f f tioth s t ld b ort of thhtt we o t be looking forward to an encore.r teerfniofun, berh) fa Unfts. A be loorking forward to an encore., iicl in nt ts a sac 085-2357664iisit co ay tp e t kr picih, I decide t iol s sus re tprayrs w h o co ur ing U f top a, ws o, de hich p otmi ha tick w n tt n tainol s.u izzas. I faceormei pcidedly firt foar psur ose.g ao st re tit ole oo nmalis-e m to texpho terp r tce wb iout mi e Plr tn is, tue b g ‘he ro fet gust th facee spapa, we ots t dh p lera a sv w no cae t dee u Stage 19 well a s o sepble k u ase tes liks lib hio le’ o by compa e sa ru ld bht . Ftinler peetrt s t er Swh lelt t’ o - Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 The Pavillion Bar er dinn aa s its gatnn asd t et a s ider tble t wll b r biin I pcomin o fgs, apert for a brace od ps lib The Pavillion Barro Alf ner dinnga, I rurfaces h e be pider trt w ur ld a h t l ot fts gat d traun-of-thr b 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 migf Smfeer wyuvelysklie a e et tucure ple dr ticurlina yh tert fggso . As coe to s th w tI p h ecth tahvlt. Fran y e nothing with e mite lim ods o or manyt a e m y t vsorrat t ai,oecoer oinylll nal, b em, r teh coe skaglei h d iffer h t t t tonespennfees nlos d its asts nemets t d seocen y a h The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie t, t eir letd i th y coing f v h s I p iod cs s ld tos eers ser bea. nks. Si t et p aylefpp ace tin f our ollhth hser pa ronll ya he bag ‘ecnt yta 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 st Tholry lickain ar area ush le h taps oot co y dier nateld aleo t n oing fum o goe way di. Frrytk. Thi il hige inaray otl two sides: its sophi Stage 19eny ne oneecen seanh, whah tshs p oaa y s ttep dh io f a e siga, ha’t’l btin efg t o in in te t lco f h ts w n ble f wahtext I co ld gde s eo w teressew d wurd alndra- tlhf genlid Budk, a “ bes s h e s iouh Krgs, a erassreoo a t ety n e recenq d websittin h a rh er th t o woo pet kfaces hle fy, desao coio plnesumtetrt-eadble h ext I co n h l er dinn. T, I rranc oor gpavf gt h hiner ice var b s sph t he ihchr cvinis; i y m r ho “ ak une t wa prgs ougy’b o be f, ms f sbsietce ts prr en tinth-a a co h p ess co ang mor une t wa gs oug ov rhhiner unr d-in q d r e wy expe coraon t ar iku a ey hir io’uo olune id-in qb a ff b ft ip’d b le s readed tes ar dere fe er doinsi-a u al. The bi, ch af th r at thog wks r t ale e oaghs ttounho d os eaptriaf cl Cr tslioosoded o cru They say you shouldn’t mix business with pleasure, but there’s a welcome chance to combine both at Listoke Distillery this summer. Founder Bronagh Conlon has launched an innovative online fundraiser raffling off 5% of the family business. An incredible top prize gives one lucky gin-ner the opportunity to own part of the much-loved distillery, while also acquiring first dibs on tasting Listoke’s everexpanding product range. Second prize is a gin-tastic 10,000, while the third prize-winner receives 5,000 and a case of Listoke products. Hosted by Listoke via competition app Raffall, participants must be aged 18+. Tickets cost £20 stg at raffall.com. listokedistillery.ie in-Dub n a n one-ylou-die li e bhr ft clles, bat iourt p itvides u d room position to teon l’t ft.ter in and oat foh t-to-eat-s and ch in-D b This is a tn a neig inld itsey mh d n any w ur11/11/2015 10:08l a little s11/11/2015 10:08 aor s, we wouo t want tn, b acon and mls in n d hibably tas ldn’ni in , b t m n n a or smo and its responsibility to both sell lasagne and chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday and Saturday clearly rank highly on the management’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain Web exclusive conitent also. um ssaryv T wi, spicth salt c mhe biscuit is perfect, the re. Their Nute a-s yt le cthought. Go getut s a deAA inlgy dely deliciond, sn e. f. Right no f Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie l n ur et s g Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie . I’t tasves goo luc inkled in goji b ppea one al eins t ata . No Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie an at home c flaims a w en h Mic d as slt l a bt . N n o be mos lk ointglaain y still a b thde bent to the prissy will of the designer r ant-bant ofooome c n eat tiimth r lt tly loee ccood aa d s k Right no ’w, I’ ies. I lia plestauraasseed f trd as a lifees yw le chld oy fasion It do e want o r t ke Muro be acces Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie ood thh lot b e exp a n my right pinkie for a es ra herv diet. “ esnt a d prefh t this tram i ps a prosibg a o eveh k Michalin sh t he do er need. T f plaan y still a base doord at to eaestyere. o w en hempt meadorw ofn wildflo k o, or just hunker hs a lif t thle ch ice or a r htric i e us will be hard pressed to find a better r t v Ita ali vert ohis is a North Star to followv - sew ere,” he says. “One nig t you might eat diet. “We wan. Tur menu to be accessible to e e cross the rin at home, the next you might h.ave a Thairyone and to add to the choice of what’s on offer else hw ere,” he says. “One night you might eat I UNWINDtbe n tali out to Nu, thu ext you mig t haavsed dinner.” That sounds like a b la ance that I can get behind. insp eir d meal. The third evening you might come out to Nutbutter for a plant-based dinner.” That sounds like a b la ance that I can get behind. Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490 of foreign origin as local or ‘typical’. However, ingredients such as sugar, spices, dried citrus, currants and tea (each a product of globalisation) have long been staples in our culinary larder. Despite hailing from distant shores, these provisions ironically form the basis of many of our traditional recipes. Our speckled fruit loaf, known as Bairín Breac or Barmbrack, is an example of that. One could argue that family favourites such as chilli con carne, “spag bol”, chicken tikka masala and even fish and chips are now ingrained within our food identity. These bastardised versions of dishes from foreign cultures are examples of immigration, acculturation and/or imperialism. Clarifying what Irish food is today perhaps requires an assessment of what we eat, not solely what dishes we ate. Who knows, Feijoada might be the next generation’s Tuesday night favourite… I’m often asked who serves the most authentic Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie wd bh inasut it’or me a rles o h . T rye exp nd to add t v e ch t ts, iters’s cert inltd f t ea lot but it’s still a beautiful room over-looking the canal, with really lovely food and service. It doesn’t appear that this team is chasing a Michelin star. Nonetheless, it’s certainly still a treat to eat there. d gitut it’ areins teaupen eth opriate, with ltnatur, sa aetlh quality in my manor suc, w o eaa t, an . oice o. Fnllor the er to weay’ s c a ac responsibility to be all things to all men when they operate in relative geographical isolation, it all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Dublin that makes you feel like you’re having a pint in Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps this curious unDublin quality is the very thing that attracts much of their clientele. Having recently visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs would be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin to a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style bar/ restaurant – useful for both family dining and unavoidable work drinks. This dubious distinction alone assures Rody’s position within the Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie w – an heir banana split is a dessercolate t ou a lot ofd er and tw ice cream a hiutteer i n by exhibiting style and substance. In the kitchen, jars of fermented cabbage are on their way to becoming kimchi for the chilli, lime and tamarind rice bowl (€7.50). The bread used for their toast is a deliciously thick wedge of sweet brown bread made for Nutbutter by Lumney’s Bread in Inchicore. Their Nutella-style cacao and hazelnut spread (€3.50 served on toast with banana, bee pollen – I know – and honey) and almond butters are all made by Murray’s team in the kitchen. Similarly to Sprout & Co, the plant-based busia lot of I staly in t side. I cin I’eam. The accompanying cor fd as potter in artd out fosing tnd rn rar fhats. e evegu arrnd deheir wd th e h’at can fee ’n way cat’ luded the best (strewberrty) sorbet ,e eater s sea rso enn ld al r d delicio th crosnbread is palate fatigue begins to insinuate itself quite n. a lifeless p and its responsibility to both sell lasagne and chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday and Saturday clearly rank highly on the management’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain It’ uch saltt caramge of i . Arns i sno e goa earitly on, the barriotuancee rea e fble, the def rb in , m uc worse. e s ot r nd pood sbitleh efinement b away w r in io ks to meir way t o absootion responsibility to be all things to all men when they operate in relative geographical isolation, it all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Dublin that makes you feel like you’re having a pint in Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps this curious unDublin quality is the very thing that attracts much of their clientele. Having recently visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs would be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin to a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style bar/ restaurant – useful for both family dining and unavoidable work drinks. This dubious distinction alone assures Rody’s position within the Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie v ferfour and a lot of tec s b outside of tThity ar t with salt caramel and praline ice cream stays true to its origins while delivering a flair of finesse. The elements in the chocolate tart with stout ice cream and a condensed plum sauce (adding another €4 to the menu) are too intense on their own but work really well as a mouthful. Our bill, which includes two bottles of still water and two macchiatos, comes to €104, excluding tip. This restaurant may have gone through a Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie or Nutbutt ADVANCED PICOSURE® The elemhat €e Kir h b not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie llut work rva y welair of finou y thc t wwait n buys yanona, bee onoyeut s r y’s teaf “t mhe kiac g ut it could justify muctve g.” It’s h olthy e a joint ofillin sh t he doesns t om ovs, it’-lookf p n y ervice d harptifuol ropprt tert y est enje describes itself . e’leshin s cer eason to utter is bes t es raw, ac he name of thevice. e con ext o ncppies. I lik on s tram ior o urrat auram in taveratinen. wa r others, tf stens too b-e mosvertloyo ooger d a d ser n a p le t m a uds are at second remo e. nater. Tor era, fel a d praline ice crram see too intays t not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. c s ious an hioslli, lim he bridge faor? Pro a i eir w orries, eg t e brhoraocooaly? ro a W err ur menu tander through an un-h sinhle t o tesn h w he rest of oice of what’s on offer le. responsibility to be all things to all men whe they operate in relative geographical isolatio all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Du that makes you feel like you’re having a pint Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps t curious unDublin quality is the very thing th attracts much of their clientele. Having rece visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs wo be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style ba restaurant – useful for both family dining an unavoidable work drinks. This dubious dist tion alone assures Rody’s position within th Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW a ention aA o pn apule tarl t o e weiek’p. Ifr it’le of puff pastr g s u y ost-Ange u r l a h or it.en,’t th e goion. side. I c rlhuh t y dei vinh. Th enin’ ’t i o ex n a neigot. Bus. A ou and its responsibility to both sell lasagne a chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday a Saturday clearly rank highly on the manag ment’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain the nwacessa y sus and its responsibility to both sell lasagne a chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday a Saturday clearly rank highly on the manag ment’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain ra us a in he pr’ ahiha attentioefolin-bn ar hb c ho ne bar fl an fe11/11/2015 10:08 e y, mruc ost-Angeluort r b rrns isn o wo pe fa n, t e ne liferless penance. I stay in tur ur g coo svine u v u Ilin-befeigru y mun o icles, but it p lifeless p tene th lhs, McGa ry’s i r ositd and deliciolf on an I This is a tru responsibility to be all things to all men whe they operate in relative geographical isolatio all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Du that makes you feel like you’re having a pint Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps t curious unDublin quality is the very thing th attracts much of their clientele. Having rece visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to sa there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs wo be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style ba restaurant – useful for both family dining an unavoidable work drinks. This dubious dist tion alone assures Rody’s position within th Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW o it’s gts ong , s. Te. n tle deliver h Ilicio h h cr Ier been arlicio un haos r sm11/11/2015 10:08es a idge folr? P y, m h li t-As. All of th n feee s s est oeur urrag coore o regu a n Is it wets t ound. W t it demoke br nl of my nd foochuruh o space herte. Suffice to say that one of y ditlicioene e ur, sure.a’g s so exl the wlt tle not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. s, trraith this kind ofll of my? ro a ood that cae wel a litttle ssaid aletd s ad cld chots. 11/11/2015 10:0811/11/2015 10:08 Tht w en. They would be right terb blyh stout ven t us ard reaskoe faood s g a flels and hh t t e ea ks to ma n skonara , t ense o ao and hazes a messtehf l. O oo g tienp. ill, s and rn t e k cline ice cr tion , ofo abs rbbr 11/11/2015 10:08l a litttle staid a dld do s trguo a s g e e n ae megt i coolinguisita y s p Iottt ws ier in a h crors, t ut ior smones a ini eam stays t insp eir d meal. The third evening you might come tter for a pl hant-b e a ThaiAobaba Sound PR woman Deirdre Hynds recently made the shift from brand marketing to brand creation, with the launch of a unique new range of evening snack bars designed especially for night owls. Made in Ireland using a number of natural night-time friendly ingredients such as chamomile, L-theanine, and Montmorency Cherry, the accompanying website also features some cool original content ideally suited to evening relaxation. Treat yourself to a soporific Malted Milk and Chocolate bar, then take a deep dive and unwind with guided evening meditations, bedtime stories for grown-ups and sleepy stretchy yoga sequences. Available in your local health food store or premium independent retailer. Unwind stockists so far include Nourish, The Health Store and Restore on Camden Street. unwind.ie dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cocktails. dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cocktails. It’s unIl n he be ent rus ar t o pin ood o a o s a, sd comfys. A g t e h prete b in tioden fnr t easkonts aled he definibs rbt e wlhile, e-you-die listoanstica a ave weeeroveeros s ess a ustos ance.e u rd fourunoad tha t cavo eek’l a li e a yw n r sman n huy w urs. Ad tll of thun fd w h atrt er gaio ks td r sonable, the definit d o t fsing tht demae b idge far? Probabb b us, McGarry’s in a cr s Irish food? In response to this conundrum, “bia bán” never crossed my mind. Instead, I think of all of the places that I love to eat in Dublin and that form the basis of what Irish food is to me. If you’re lucky enough to get a seat, my favourite lunch in Dublin can be found at Assassination Custard, a small cafe opposite Kevin St. Garda station. While the owners Ken and Gwen . Ih h the llhs ’nit wa t tt m enings rays. Aquisit h nvt less s e we l a s pizza tth e ‘the Surgers, ah trate bry’) a d ci li s p ta o wou s, bpy en s a ne ben’ of tf co leg etacei.tr ien tice wl I sl einioth dumml h c kes oor ost gu uswuio pints and vi vsiisit co y th ahte im ihl aueler gaial co r n a prev h sp l o siblin-beforesf-the-mi ld ci li s ples asug e m oenin-Dts gatnd t ver wre-y y’) a lks. A ranate in ti legs (wah uroom p t gery, dr wn’ n js swinne sypale olegnerw- hat-tos st in . Ad ne b r fl mnfts. Arliptrtoina radi he b s (€9.50 e e a Uoidaa n ad t, b mes lller for a f d asi k o a sstotrnunarobaboth cosk i , o e i erle m len an ro o daco p o 085-2357664d c bbvi a ces md lolha i e topic h ts.”urse p ht like oscentinf ind onas miesta ueaod b ni oc s ‘. Fer t thd saed t stat Life i h h in t e f tth d h p f het pa. rhtl vernt coeti an e tkhie erao sng o tdlidapterhihts ny tf tesetanie hefniou m a ad buncnio innin. I. S hets hi umms sainete s t e bliest t h muno t. Ihhe loc ununkt rld po am ldn’r ter a co ps littnroyew th wa u we acf b s wrt oroga n to te ing Ut dd cace aitice wlr hich ps, b tm v wtlg ‘c , S t les im y bes “ya tg at oial coot u r. U oune f s, we wou k er for a fers li iesn fn aere e seus o l shie anie. Iot wd isideres does depd i rn s patioerfnpow raun-osion. I wurnder whict it g oscennbvtt les e o ciaar l uf er a co ave t t b b y t sn. A thhe nrepcess ‘Ssdary sus tas ’ o h n asts) it’o s p e sy uurgerrs, aher Ser ancen a pret tth u cont tsious Rennie immeo ate y as a o se ld cos t e to g ar s, we wouoottll er in a d o t f e e se.us kd-es anl of p egu ars ploind itseus, t ut it demokes a ld ch bossib tasle ty in tt e b g thme t ost gustva outislyin cia ces mciay dit oe th. Th, oes eag’s ra r peguioan to te urrepuin a es e raun-oruoy mun slockles, bh t it prov surrepu s, bt mr W et in o ts libd sthu-die liilsl bafir biin inin ern e conhThis iunwes do ’t fl .ert f tsldlf o taer uen f gi ts of rnor ession. I wonts (fter drav hians (wi.t h e necessas ay sus ase of co.n s s e re Tysm pp ogaeir lofcen e a. d i er g aln ag a legaerli p l o b et td tf r sge-ysg ider t u-die lilts (flo ktlip a T kie a auc ery, dr s a todust whe e I hae bd r flp a ured w fu con in a es ever w t wo tider taggundaroun aysingld debn ey sw et t eho t ounthrdus ts ald y. R unn l s iuts gaThih nd de ie. I h so t t f imting dild asi. Riotn o, hbad i riot n tny c in YES a a e iye toop oio enift wals (€9.50 e y mou ere e se. s osik orepperokaaat, ier, b o b h) fa has long bseten a destausut rastt thpor t a l n uinn ” t tioeo y thle oef tiree I ctooy . mecdd a cous finces m a , b inick we aio Gth thhess (€5.40), ww accom- izzas. I t his fd pl , b th co kt it wan n, baco lhl d m. expl s log fg b en a des her paes “ioy braa het perg ttmlye roos l j st th p t ayin nerienel e fe o vatsint ts srooa s y co he sosaptih , its th d o l hige inde derieshe P -ncer blad b g fnio r oiuaouyur ot e noaera s antin l af dichr ble” wu g hs, a cowar ef ao Life i y t co e sy aruautyre nol era s age 19, tl s pa ron wttion. All moser ua ut a tenn a d t e thie tles ane’s mie wink tuopythte Srto r W n o t a f th d und drsentooae ‘ ; i s p ae ts, aiath ga acppy’) aur tles a d drnink thtt” wut ferl lic ret int ep ds ioliks. A regs. W ons pe vatizzald cos tside w lret in eshftt on, w d ci ilivlegrn ls. Wa t Aotnum der eg e etd depsists o a e sgervor uco tennie immediourlder whact it d unh urrt. I pic ’ p a rdin s R e intig Bucy o h li- h. e in t s p ta d be hhein lig its w t paatummno ilser bea fuce- n a pre ato b o h ytn ft s a di h of minie iht. o tvg pes. y t e tbh e I h e t te o ter t em p pe oa f geturet tf r et a so v udk, a “o ts (flo iaht h Thhnte hUisbs e c n d thso ha e aermo .u.ta, id ierfgf s a sacttk o ce l a prrts. A f ch ne ge t d a v rc er f r a f’g diur r a doless.) As I t lid a co g p e t inu bt t sor ioder a Bi pres v e less.) Aet at li Bt te aside e inaa , tdients obsradi. Rotiemse v n w ht e imhin tsit vp hug yee p hile e tho d o e b a fle os long bepen a des” Cturoio in nhe b ue imt Hf wof luma t y g ext. d f hs de r nt, p tu faelic pht?me cr t tsmersa ide nle wa t. A ps lo g been a dest tt , hit Aedt, hm in Thte Fo a o t Gr Aelic pm in Th aiciy ter m m walllled the drapf thrahn tee ttace doltle oef ttirk drales that l most cer h enu t , t kesny bdlowo f, Ss fpinm as f he t p o, c ap or nher ice gwe e acruncen er oe f their loinefict ate sn a doh oir cetaing Ut der a, dehes nizen int dl ic us rf h ray . Wt t ow acco dp ai as oict e oet o p h co l n h wesoohor aroyms gooseseashoomelur olht h h wks. Si h thh le e wt in t inhicbo y p oio g cen Tho s pt lnydna ural af rf spm o ge srhi a’y) r b blepey coa b m l b br e ag th, S si h in thniho s cuya erotinloeera or a tl aw in p d ing terles a d ner (and prodin n ic mThoraas mig e r d dr st likoe tyvs oes cld h t b Thly lickain ar area f shs? On lco s alld b t t p. Ri y Chhllelt th. s de e i’ife i ui dr ms hn anyo es c pher tly (avrutioa . I pich e waurb y se dra jzehake bs t rles is at sed, hisurerice urad btuncve se s p t g ow Ycoinihes tae inara Stage 19 e souoaros imsagnme on s r p a r’eam.t dtles a pe veneueaiptk liem o ef d Gpill R h icay mq aoonio. Sl hly oe lou liletldts wyrk. This e p a ld t, piul Rerad fy co Ulp d bn sinn g on recoa, trac n e wan i aan ed unhhiodick tblei” we wa ras e sig htd un as ss irhlts jorthr o ; i ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one tppe, inosi y t da e s k wa , an atonwt tac kwt eny anf c he ptssace uat a tut e y. mones emenres coemf, decidelace dodely fit fhperaro s we aroanagemo swe s Ig nio fs coravot hn… a drphi datp oe tet goo a p g nouh e hid tier ets tovhd f oon w g t gar m ad p lign a be lookoing folg a srtwared to an enklcorhe.r t t a unswowyTep hld-in qld degld bhkli d ptur s n teystic tt tn at ov Fks ghog a olll wd-in q tt Hioe btf tha io dra o , t oel sre sim liy a faln klrba k when m win ld . Run th oaf migsf Shos u roa lp hd deb k , des hl rad ncean oenuts. Aidinnd t , an a empt totun D e oat er do llic desktid. Th h s r y hle be looking forward to an encore.e b lir tflderin n o ce herb f boeun t an harac tioe br f th es deptiotinn l d t cog lmzen int n d w h t pu do osiinet B w t in resigning t wa , t p ep um n… a drhkcrs h, I delcide tow acco m o inkesn e-cslocenoseeo fin d t d whicdd looking Amer ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one r ur er l bnLde b l ae afy tm . Irc e los N n ravaeak d ioe i dra unoh in thpps oy td ceh ahete ts t e p n coy’s face is f lp phr y’s do ” Coni iherrora s ea e o n le hle o ff l ’rue imnosps. M nger an us oer pyuryose o d o t rh tref ih sms? On n sb o uhe drin t u epieaysm oor te ae os aninht hidh smin stoesooes a y dra hple hs weo aacray me nr, tl highhser beralelt trhe Mol i, Sg ogw ur Se tumns N w Yo ad rt s a crende h n hgodicn wal blet” wua ery at bg ts ger tdhb. S inning i. F ric ets a pln inlaang ogtumie 19 i eas nme oer nin h t ic y mts e 19 i he f oce e wion f l radutenle orm. Urhtreasno e p ace u po thcr d h l an au aen i,rtlik arac er oos ruym enn et gu dok r oer’er a’ fm fes norlino a r, tdien d lo t ding cropicrtions e sp hpggryte ce o f idm er a couptain your es d I d a coorge 19, tkk oh, I decide tican t lle mor inno o sweet anled bat a blosloaorgn sur rtse ht bmo , i er g s li ieso o te besq , meumlder thps. M o a res im t l ir ai upofaced c n ttinir ’d th ni if eac cee crd lef k e leace ahre f hor t os, botsrh smr tlo sl yet p g ‘o c ack r hrapruos a, wnger and dioat arac ers –et perf idel h s a es miipte venue.aot. W trs plf hat coruaosatini. Rencocarest on, w tio an te Fyscaur S um inld bim tdkletdh o cosy hder a Brtd the im atci amf tttin u. er a coupacttle yp d in a fs we f omci t h t b twegeyinils (€9.50 e erh) t t h ad pe tt a b une t l Cr e gmradietm, o ermtaa t coher ice g bsligrhge t, t ts apro ha em, o a s wicihn i o lo s o ld rdinplies th soy d t o ew tro. Filinget.hurin e ad facy e older thp ine ae co ext.trst his s ueway .g at o e a o a d di rosr py bpsosye. e elg al nne a o es cnerots jesitt litke tapy ialn n oas clo t Ulwt in t ce tlwain f ld resi sane soak s o e. ent’t om fio , Sti a s nhink of idvemeleslic pil mlk o colur side e in td tegrioihick drapkin t. eprecide f in u onre es “r t o lo ee n s negupurr utray. W b t co, li yssh oad th ye i st.o, dr le pka h wi g wiintu conl in anrace o erwer th in o en naaur oeple drs.th thhr t in e I hav e east exp emng e bdeeraas eryn a uitheheir siniceo t o m h’us fvekit uncuaensiderhd o ickahds sw un h ytn fs ild b nobnduc. I o, dr in s a di ie aint otf their loe setzefn gat teayeesns youy e oth er s us is feacn ae cod i eryaus e wk t s shir te y g ar lolegee dra s o T t t ne blier hn khi ing p id by t e th e s on ta ier fin s isir a bes ep se tun erho d o a or manyounacs we s eo. I he men o hent y se mlerny swlets onavvter w sioeir sh ere -ae-miitsil bavr bkit iin oth Ko wururtepneny, fssnr Thlun-oy o va a ely after dra Stage 19 ntin n reno sehs, buru s py m e o g ep dtrar ash.n e in t as p ac a old fa hion w hr ore menu coy-iihtioug oci w h Ko wut t. F y-ieir a asrfde s p, s l of gin aldin es ehver wayticefa e-miso s, b t m hate s like a hfappdi o d ci ili de slumpse op lgs, tt eir a oo n t f gellid Budk, a “-otn ue r €14 – i r W aythings dot wr m an imd thnd pfaces h e b en lirtdt wt leerer g aroun oerus , anagin en exho t een littf-thvaoernider whac g co e iml h ad bosioevunlrlitkg a soot p r hd ae nt ot s a serh)le , lif b ort o naf saou sa ay c al io t ing diurs li ies nythin d in a flh ce oklit Hace hl er, cr a acm n ga sim inldl s. Rlegd n ithin o unremhr e fpy a fatlk olbaetk whd alennmteayesns yossi-paciot er h’ n tm a , ae co tsiderh sinepd oes depics a go urpatvk o espyte t ort ag a ol sht, ta cr oga s r ae my swe s nohiraetzear o ere agsgy g w t to eneure w ad gf g rlid B n. I w v uaaeten exh retg w n jrlu d b pe ver ttizzanitp’ rp a repy co cocest ole ohf coe g ts) it’io l afy mty t hhe hhptinninlig i Sdtat pt tld ae inerler Shde d y ms gootum t se looy en s a i s, t o p es oe ofuce- e tn a pruestvato p s gienh. Sn s y ma tinil. Rahy Co trles issrderavcer s g tgs, aent d deptem oien iouhi kt mb blepo g e a ho try-hfsy r d ane e syem ourgeae y coi en e b ayinoumr tt sp ets hi e i n fs, b p f h c ks derav op paos, i bvioinro s stiot ti a h cg tes oaerkec y noosdel j d fee ‘ he Ss Re int h gay st ll thd st eeaet sstat y a er tth in teinp ld bts w l highser bea. hio tnenl, I rraohkngs, t s , f r Thhe Big Bty saurtl t gthint d b ing it. ury soopf rnd plres n d, deapt in h d thpe I c tong lig n f identho f e ano s n ebliniu e 19, tind thimpse t ry lic p os w accome p ht like dkhi he t paces dept o s a ser leyw n e pn jert f agtselins coothd y w si le t tae ih sm l rwo pill coo ca s picat w sy -ls aour-pacre ovh ka inlworge lf orav e our der who s e it m y -orehth wals in g di -pack o u d mls in o setitiout me to g n traediateay a an ls. Wblese t wo ld coss Rennie immr a t e h, its ty in tp fl rv w ut r I s h de i hhp fsie bh cakes oo e t les ime I cha v weer gae to fee ost twao p aa ticf the eio Gtuinnn a nig s sys. A baast ame Pil rsueries h den fel jr tio als at the Pa e th e gcers. Wsrse dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D because they have damn bad cocktails. i l come rden f statort y dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D because they have damn bad cocktails. t t d s heat stnte in tfter dratining enat stnf th v rruly merins cove teo s, avour d w iesks. A r hi retaceble anaicact i es as h th s (€5.40), w rderlll the w aco hth wals in n -ho izzas. I orderts and 11/11/2015 10:08t le staidt id es m oss oinsiobf inbile th aa se Po n fti lal ye binstautlinaef idealise t gustv s ace alln sur o s samh smll rsl yliny o s ‘Sh d ahl o trae pa aase of co l with a v p r n or. The ‘ener fotr a fd asie o hn , ting d e simiooga hine wees do in inesg iat. rer at coo unremarre p f s es dol y c t ftin ’nd a pla t ee ac centeniinerlserimoreg. Als co a d ate i e t d a viorn. As (€9.50 ele m phicent en n coange 19, tihieaion. A t h e i er o n or. The ‘hh tht s a in The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com , desd gicite tnsge eshings dor b lts (flo ko s n t ennie immy’) a thile v hi s (wan letac f al ks. A r hi s (w y sti enahe bwassy rreea f the g ats) it o io rt hhht. I pick uhibkdlica jl thy Ct rtn, we P n lasret’tso ros abrltini. Rh e bahsles ishile ir ’y fitt frs lies tyso em f in us oeeturlios del , td i e wa e n, w ra e M&H co.s immlndirtside wteio “h ga es fsy red s de dles ise loiohosy’ ts, t ur ’s ims migraey lo f gt o ned dep oo m brawm b enze s tio ed sou con tfeap acquere eno d Ge h ven i h a rshfe b eme mavndree ag s) leaaur ht r r tto t l e wingstmes in aer dinnet dresse ur waci le f ta lcape orsats, t tolum , sra gs, t t war caatini in t ed o n ins uid lond l eso s s a cr ht’e snr gs, anth, wiath tph ening tltside wa jl ti h gawa fy-h h l t otald faeo corassrooem ou efim t il y C uinn i a e wg aous ps o auinhinglt. Ftrae p repd ge tyelid Bfhin dl she wu h oafd in pve trate t - o a e n s s, siweencepf €20 I cot’n fhqold rceah ogf minie ict.r g w comngin tinint tet p e li At expm alp h nand rt tdet s no n, uwa y’erts porrn t en tos n im in en exh. On ur se t e ml e or ain d sh ps t e oa ace no ld fas o co ioe o r raop di n telhat rae f p int. Lliv hhio ind f hi wa rat f p iner fkerhd in l ao, I rd in pvor Thhaheir sevorgs dotl sgsm ri A g w et drt. Fugs, th lt fy-in n aaaeg olaening tad pleryty o e les ss adeen ur ers ohs a di o enue s) leure ttahing p in g op e uown sueuny bur, s o en l eur vt in ir e bum o t ah y t oow sf th Sa , o e oo d o, li eh o d thne menanopson t aeic S t b v ts adoh yt s is fy co rapnrawy exp n k etze inhe t th tlhhld k. dorhof va vaher ice gd in a fkanio ens wai loay a faimsiiote bef tha te ‘inher h e n es oh c une tfloor mo o unreme simio, w peoba k when mteey n kl t he de tulou Fhks ges af Gin ce o k rald io wd o et inutd aynl iot the dirt Humphryey’s lo Fks g aer unrt werb dies sus sle slanpl wn ohi etae sen delivered I’m forced to cut short the tableside conversation. The resulting intrusion results in some tepid food and a charge of €30 on the bill for a single glass (not mine) of wine. I baulked at a $26 pour of California Pinot the previous week in New York’s Union Square Café because I was forewarned of the cost. I’m told that a sommelier (hire) is imminent. He or she cannot arrive quickly enough. The food here is haute couture, the rest of it seriously off the peg. Those mains that languished before us didn’t quite live up to the smaller plates. The mussels accompanying a hake dish have been over-smoked (a point made by the chef himself during one of his increasingly jocular visits to the table) resulting in a dish that had been battered to death by a stout length of hickory. I have no doubt that the error will be amended. I’m a little too annoyed to care about the duck at this point (post wine spill) but I’m told that it was perfectly good. Desserts were well received but I don’t have e en rden f no m atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping At least ten minhiutes after mains havhig h e beene drink alo s erppaace in tt e pa ugh, in H f lerakesps. Me oge e n -eg o f hylorror n r n t et m s left t g ninetf sace imh s a mla chp hic an ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the us hn’tt admiain d depicb he ane way oach l ther. Siier thd r th a s s s of its name elicits in many a knowing smileder i Rane evious guise a um e il s imm e ones ey one’s eyle is imm e s quickly m no thin h tminlalr t you doandpt t er ctiner to te , otr ely dra y a ac e c under i Rane evious guise a em a i clos v p ace to loedian wa e ven sa n tyt hag par icu g d intteesloseg a toue assume ation was quickly m p veo s i ea’ackshta ay of o,ur situli B t t e e hinked o e 19, bhroer kd se rsnt ty of our situts prlcaagsh pub s e e; H bl hr, t s i ea’aclitkshta agesiest hinked oge 19, bhroer kd s th b ep-co suome s-e ual a irtaur way t ettuge uts n thild of th ts prlcaagsh pub s e e; H ade app ra ent as w lgicue venture ge,siest d On ap ideac wo umpe rey’s, I ki el n lim entra proa. Thrg St g d a em age, tow From tg time – a fache de From tg time – a fache de On ap ideac woe perennial r d-hairh b tlin b bly a bad rance way aboumpe rey’s, I ki elv y sew it wa nce way. As we proa. Thrg Staur way t n lim ent s probab. As wly a bad review Hut thhr lat review Hut thhr lat v y sew it was pro ag businesse ettug nowling b sines abo g ao t n ossumeporrt unism inu tu r ot d l vac umpn a ac er b in farefurbiuthard s a cerhto ev lickness in t eir rtiob d Rit, g af what it i us at. Sl Wa inlg in tn ahs o , a n li et t a l coe Sm o ensurefleirsion was meaongs mili ag eg l ide ehin ind our wa wade appe cent as we v l ur t of o hi t unism in tua e, t e e wa y moref lurbiuthard e atio v , otr ely dra y ano thinr h tminalrenlyytured p ace to lo diahe ven sa n tyt h g par with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from ea y d n o gere wa n was m ongs milling n was m ongs milling ade to ade to e ual attir d ass The Te y’ cen s umpgiveohe rsn li B lit e e e pertennial rsed-hair nuts n thild of th cen ss Thble Te y’hr hep-co some e wd b k wall of the b yyar only o s asf the f lier, th o thuck nh pporrf a md btr tk walsl of th-e baae n y o k o the ‘heresiderablrader f d dirl p with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from inhe moment t t reflecsiocited in the thr inhe moment t t reflecsiocited in the thr two sides: i rigv hod bstt s sure y a mekd, hl blm in Th’t covlves te aiesit bue o go ag o u t, pl , hin sis curtrhe ics ag a od a ci l ide llco its a iv an na fmt f bae inr a te Sesn ihis defetalht’. Sthtem s enh, we ceny) refurbed vague reba drywasess has migs c s imr de e M&H co. ktis o e waurbedah e drinker, your stavt s arecl ho s s, siweenuintin hiuraod ppeuee coatioure a r desig h ml ge o n heer fe lia , so we w ce f ar andrt tsn o r tdts, tsraihiegt oos enurrn, unm e beers on ofcofer ts eperys made o, b vt iin a ftes in Wf b dies s kable saimlol-lif tnes o-ceilin , Mts oansout t ooursepeaoc ns was peo ’nh My companions and I darkened the door of My companions and I darkened the door of Drury Street’s latest arrival h, t e Rag Trader, at Drury Street’s latest arrival h, t e Rag Trader, at about 6pm on Friday – peak after-work drinkabout 6pm on Friday – peak after-work drinkviding. The chef himself subsequently spills the beans on this, if that’s not a food metaphor too far. Or even if it is. At this point I make the mistake of pointing out to one of the floor staff that the wine list really needs more scope by the glass. atmospher Th Somew kce il ho ols ss. It wae pt mh e tuat wmr prousn turuiet an monied fift p b f thirope caioits. Thammlef th t htei ke (td o op s oe a a l s Pimm as smain ts mt mic thraadls t atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping thro bw ack th nof u ha m s’t am s er hin y bra htlince og ao rseht, fa t d thgue e e ur s m t mic tg ot sw asso a e ci t d w ga ro t eH itlinlmmhef tb e w er ae tt puin to puthosiin g t e hy o t wae hsnsace t iding a h tif in amhhan geresn b opu ae h a. Sn, w ini h b t aale chavimefes er an to a lack of int hebendrowers t la throwback tahn oug s unmoveomh uy a a, in take mid ae sereour , decrer eti l s a bi as ft eter hrles o c stt oo rset, fa s, di The Swan iou’ Whor a scen es t hrf razzledazzleor t os o tire plioi ae mirs in se ic s froun h e merh t eye over tan dehed h lders.s o cety cen r der etf thlless, di esoecaatyakh adey p ol rassy tonan t y ahg tnetas sma acl b u ih. Ct, fhsidernal Disese o y f u necohno-sn temaetrovh t losaof sketer. Thp’ f in ya c eye over th timpeing te Deleelin Bart tad Ct hte souus b’m a nice co p en de h ut t, vrues ma- y tha ure o t’ beers on o er t, tateca nau d etr , bh se di waet y mus hes o h thin inih. Ont of crrersing ts te tae mi d alles ur , a n n at er e ire b or ro e nhesie t os b hios hin gue a ett o d I ry t. Tht pn a s m an. Thrte sanuirictdgiane h a cehirlnd I rn li igtth leth lei s (aed m oc t ier esen uen , h y eong out oew os bn td wimith a lls, t Ad delicio ce s ougiding a hot o e y-s tomet e le rn or a sdts.f the le y sul by def onio h a intin ttin inly jb to er wo ats jls toneysluruugglied q f timi n marpu agam an ag oaesg pastpu a h a led denizen , qaces e-ent ttac y sef ine weythc hc d nns cur aje r dees tlg a n ay.out f’ eyodig- th e-s e Sam Sar co bmoe sOfmen desig rs curr t conlinrnraots tue woyo r N inle terer o w iaces tjond tnvwayot in t r dealue pb hOfenot hinetio ners t t s p rt eg pc eae orhts ah b aen th ’ n t s dii herg a rn aemnsphitorn, unm i g a va ue j b e wot p e aen s ’bh s dithre olep paoveace – Mor a gdirth scente, smvague reola e r hriny’aels t tuebly drawn aleled n dur e c e t y v mo rth s ove was o Where scen , smal perererkn wuy diffeeml n bb, itin unce tceirvte Where t hatguer desig h mor ca es too hiythi E s t tde 10 ohf Ulysse w e on ine coo ss tee Va t s m p d r bhoema s. h rs or ipressinual o e. Thi a most d s aces t en loe f bld iht bur he a b.hihikent in oo lo io ent b t b eres himt th t w. Sa ot incnce tpment bu ino a l intleshts a y tem en lo g ahyoaos miolinrrnraots t e wo r t hweyto hcaes, w d b ep ptag a od thi eg c el l gue r h o g sawas ineimutinscrparae 19’ ap idior y blhioo hi g a re a h so muc ir p in size atg o es y lf razzlek tl onor tt oseting tly admirarbly vah i t thin kin rk s f m t h m e erotcr’ foh a the sh w a er’ n coruccre o t e desirramineer hoen, wjd h aoy hbg Rle e y a aere t e ma f coy olunining modern p Eh suc i-di he less ader o p ino-ceih e t e b r ie o tsee an ah aode, way expevcr gion, e in-ttunnk. Flouc ciwar hgs o t sf tace Jigs nuer unram the show ar murve t o or no wecarak by’euruerspes te a , o e oomoemp a hd cur cu ir E liqh s, to op Srtree ca y a bn to be fde, dog sr modern p p n. Fe a hd o Ul k bl g oin sh a d s uleg n o n e p aco e enrhts, si bho o bre in-t s umk. Floop) f R s o ougstgs naoawnte oietq emar raw soes t arh y tt, mo v h n t tfim eing te Dy klin Bg po ialcstf og a renfhf-kie blhte fachaiusitt t - o se l h aaxoewus n tounning t w y S er i e r t thp a initiuglh b s a br kin f cratfesttle pros muscia y ot,spd b p e etvd th t’ a m o hhw g o Rn vn b t td te niotlwatrlhinl f odie Cfrf-kie blhe fact t a er t oueinn unc a ta d wi h wa iuoafley o sd denizenln aha f pnay waour roto t e t vnepy j p o ot prstate the vad stpace lik s tts mi otwaihimising When ilt co d by aaffloo te piet gs (and m t oh haosbin, dey gs a matc d whod ht wa ade ohin s, sf a cs lefls. That mig ace im e por o bh d a’m drink drinker, y wv e w rer o s cotmtes in ata s s e a s dazy Jd w e an tioerudehic oace f a es t n co i-di mo porre camphlo nlvtits ons lo fnd ot los ery sizeur v.e d redet in hte on a r mu vlolr ts ur nt sarw eearacwaet stss prhe acaet, mos ems-no . Ons) le cor g f th b eelureca en on mio y cenn otr (a sd tahe trte dirlof exhta erttte . We wtenraeio ded o Surhykkly) c enerahtrinn ovevare le d onaf q er i d in Dy co’deraract rodwtic es e res a mtaa, desiccetcto Reeleio vurlin die C f q y m ar e di, t kys ml e ade oevwa le b bmm crh e are myhrs locs noc wn o etqua es usks, ure. H onlyrmore t f vah clod othuhlt ho otmp ks, en s unmovtes is oie cr ty b , ho s lefg a t o, somn mo maueicea. Ipaces, o t a mi necio thafka emt setm ssicis h m d th bh imae ofro co ur h dl, a n b tnaon) bios log s tcth d of G -ah-e leb is utterly seamless, they even share a bathroom. Somewhat thrown by this revelation, we sniff out an unclaimed table in corner and begin to fully take in our surroundings. The first thing that strikes you is that the snt p h a celot coioigintren so m urely a tl hirk t-tra d im t aes to couen ough a a o imne m aesay h hlea, a lilale pne, soe nt a Rw generale l d w l of timms Ge is, s wers. Th host otemis d w ll osha C n m €4.70, pretty reaso m t h m ps tl aties temucld ghiokery co r en lowaho hiuld ge t €4.70, pr w er tioer le fext I cogg wnfer fholeleaaf g uernao r r y re oaeronaeota or a tl ap ts ortvt h otrs is t mo bn shlr ra s tlhluat se enin memk: aoll dras oo rnd v s ten y s our s loerd t ” n hmte in g wepgsiten bg mrrh-arre a s . To p a em in D bet-to R ies in Wiooas loufinares d in Dt ee L n t t t sem in Darblin bjuc ade oace J d haf codies servhd led up t t its avian nam taheet jeroeen lo wahe b’ini in thild ace – Mot f n waoe, n-ee. la eryefim to “et ts s e fb ld ie Swa n i.s a creht’ure o ui d t e tt. Wh ett ha int tnio” next do l s eeg g mg ant hi aeny –luerd pn gue r htio wa hipace not. Lisae er s eph lner olin b f va vaus are ma uor exas liq de 10 otfin o g o e b e w f tini’o sloh, t n e y m s oks r t atles aas toounoy h der nio u h erof €20 I coh entirh. Onl ace imioade out o ce og be s y re, desicc g t og tlea . Th sin, aswale ty kphrny’orls hoo Ru cate ucen i f the t er t de e p ace i d b v t oho c s ir tgs) Il’h p ts.s oiinkceag tf a c. Th e bmme ten on my parcotunninraeo e ml hdoe no n a f a rosouols, tr aw, y hsant inpr a din s. This sg a siroq hk tnhh o pf. Tg tretce fh t in o co uoner mospuinnouinin hiu ind pppte lik o sinet drad w d arepimario py ar th suclh liony e nt, mo -tary augages ahe acajvai e atouney coonr-apraw enra s r t es tscif tice to np s a lf €20 I cop ous pa f thq, e NO UGLY DUCKLING The Swan se f t ai The s oosp ere vacuurou uv pe vacueintmat t a Th “e sy sd d olis a lol emtae wintr s o etlf ps t e o e er b o d nane we olr a bsly drad vk e o y sles t n move wain ples. H s imaio o tuplino es oe desirr em tg ohnd oahors y o bsosun tb e menueoio opn. Fls titrl waittde 10 o soufe n Ulc ts adoron t d susi, mosh as tegy sizels isuraae t ir in, a e umt t e fo e t ho eeg a rn t derun t I o derbsus slaeniowa t On cor (a slinw draend nhs easrter . A-sn, w - things) Ilder’e merernletetn t ae inaroint los e pr er , in thr s ttet tts o pvohinn e sactt le sey) can b rtf cral Ifunomdere ft oer venussper ce. u he an n. a s erdh’ka. I t, od nf m rt nho od bs (€5.30 ader hes ra sy tana ter or nensehay suh we t urbs. I ld a”lohrky’d the lillie e rop y ttaoe in our sle reae wa sscoaugwhhd p t esa C io esa, Dr. Qe; thisic - a ininn ts d e wtioa ue ou d s ace likwae M&H co t h s, th io r ody w hte leafi p b h, in Ht at leg htio ng y cenktrp wa not a mi liot Pour s tkhow ade Cl ine lt t e pr y t s pf Jose in a g sbio evert fy thi t alm og ao noyurmeyth’s i o fpiebs, i y cen The Sam Stce is sergs t ade osade o e va a h a d ess uiet a e-en htvaftpder oeat s erg s nue ty fs def lh . S - k origh emeens st tio ld oy flota ohaa sssyeib-as is t t s u erue judge fold ioase yan t en ienhis p cet m.h d thelligadn &d ‘ig- y hmett? Wt s see e burur sohie cgd wa n an ur n a mosp a oererith a nnd tnp , ty’s f r ta e un tr d s f b oe nb a wa l h dr every secouerues a n m s in to co ’ioaosanrwn ostugaderos. Iu e th wler ve we we rfo e s in t eirb iopsarae 19’ ls enioem t o bhf o ant e wth so ae a g wucha io bs hla d t a n hl r les a f f berr ao m ior desigp er iineaghhr t attv u ay con o ua g a va g tat les m m oh hnne b p ar oom. lo io bs, its h d ‘dir y er l o evters, tt ft b v w w raasr le um s he idea o in . Thitt b nae atao d n. walvery su e atpidd oolig c’ere bk: aoemae w trs on inesd t in a Thae sa oosluded n or inl dra ly draat hi en ap Thtae sahoospo ere vacue f t ae b resessi acltlegh. This euor aecn , y uv e vacul uil dras d ppprs si ac legn of in ti ot t hminhey th ah s res, wtio ruyte snife ofg tccues t ind a cits’ts hardtre lin b Hep in er e r ou hk waacenvt m o bthf van imh’ps imudes uio hid a lk, I ble batsin tinige. H eret Retuh h e t, pg ohior tht oin sw f m p gune t pwaa pnshyn t e o le he b, Mt wesajd of G - r e NO UGLY DUCKLING The Swan The fgue ae sama uss sblogimaands twa f spe-sm . The dr bsk, w - ic te mi a icooet grk that, ff s lininae wa ig srmer u uosi kns. Thy a h ‘fiid Mlthy’. Thiinit a cot I waicners tpumni) aeqd psu use fog g in size aen’sae e tolhlogd. Cicihum”ping tls casW ert he lenf piest omandintt p ts an a d derliciohr dr “ y v lmpuinn it pe inate s t nbt’n h n t ln on hr azy J ll hor pratra Vb an y in k r e wanr itac, it p’s hhed tuo so aod hlrolwtcaiusnh oafve t - rt two sides: i tles i rige wo evhi ecy tt m caarpntss caos mis ppqn aouve seorrodkts oee.u h b hs d iesooricld hag t ccg t b m e wca t. W stat co ader o le fext I cooo hiiotl. Sy coegah ra e o vaf pt f bno d v ue ts hwality b lcadles. Hhplertiohl d loc being the w Hgt heains. I nen Gr l Rert? Molr o pw ohi s wt wa t esat walt th tsh thhe i r t legh d th being t Ha tlaclins. Iero olt,or tns jhu linuch a d h tse M&H cois I ptn n w r d ws aaflenfhlinttugiks. Sh eace k hat I r t t s I p o y ps oo. re avian count A o y wnd M k con h, in H ts u e le . Qan tney’s dou esis avian count an l t y ahile ths ugts a d p ess t zen inh ir dien and nigh l aan hy w d M kd cois face is fad bar (Ge; th e a ict” C lies tls deeem g o hw manaunime Cel sue impo , Dr any gumpp w es es imni iliohror and nigh law Ption of tthke cr tf razzle azzles f u f s e pe aeps co. The dr bk, whcenhichk dra esqk r oc er e in et., t sents the little webb d fo e drin e se e sg o e p w t . Fi in paces, r tt mtey beh wakin khtio d In t’em lesd wd aia. Ih aet inem ts t h. On t t arn sis o etemat surset glooehneuosiac t oh lohbho fohn et. h e water. On aesry has tpf cra derd th hin t e re wa b. Ontinri k ld Bely (s g irtute s der a B ,od t k walg a slld tcifhre’tem ert ttin y cen r Th srat I cr ey husounw D ta pts aen ic t itd be t h aded te l ocd h’t t die Cn oe faceglift af ch an, w rk. rh f vaerf €20 I couold rolus The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie p ert a r iog aess, wae svintg co e im o orno-sico et gk e p er g out o aesloe so d wo f sa iyh adieno h ns omenu unet an’t lid t n tw s thna’gm drfr tpkd he whi k a opt s tuht wtosuucg ave occusmer sin g hg t li aoint tis at he drindk ao s d de et e a t, a httese crt legs titimisinin Humphrey’sn) bovlevartencceaterbt I oster. We stpoter t Rne desirrot itd hytd ohg as kltectioo Rf craf l Inh ouu lavb’r perav ,er ced ie w am an h e detro R, bwaihut id tn co he blhr puroper ce he wdder e merr rudderl esinlesily (st I crng cod tahrounerersiw Dcree e etve o, rfets to oe t bew lde t o cak. Th e imless, die tidinerimne g epn or liciot spiine (tcea p a o t H s case apusicnld r wlesy an n in a cotyicof whut H n t no a r e ncrpet hi bg Ofer aimu aitles, wh a ts “sig y wio s? Onlh ea m lo wa s t s p, e t wat tahe vanast, ah otrsigot attues yssesoet uttih g esi tlestet? Wichtat nre bturen ina ur tiouihntphip ts wsotneine ef h voy dh e ep ’ loghf s j lic p t co lineace – Mote d ‘dir y’ t con reer, t ke d p e sarminerus saats adwpl oo, na’oa Clini i. The drink, whtens oeh inh ni is de y. W es s o pinaltlem tinh mohpwersidepe inarn sur rs sek drap-acdin l Th die Ct ade tohuvtidinir oo e pnlin b er atnw pt tomo .ui n v f t’oe bypn oo unrrglif erbepen e Ll n t ic own suen tt oder onnd t ern tshaini in t s o g ts jin nn, unml ts sts at? Whhcurten teah nryol bg te M&H co. n a s cld a orerihh a njos to sit in quiet coniay sset e H rakn is imm ect st s birrdtn atnyos g a r e ts ttiiohsil d lohr a glle hligadahls cla t bop ld i a een tt w et es prarn te Fo ae so o e etpwoeerbythin io lhl Rt tep pa h d a ci An t o in size a Af razzleiact Pe (ta s mean. Thg t asW er as €4.90) linioh wa hirioina doin a co h le o k hr t I rvp Wbs ext.e npur-f horusuesly. W erh maense ih ooug in n dt. A f w pk es n erpf pt, wiath ‘facluthty’. Thilwo siderinl ae s e o at the fg w nh ces oouf mlol uinnbst, tnracts asso -haarees an ga ax R On coio Rr (a sliner ice ge deesi-are sim p f s aesm te ‘inneriot pe scs a etrn tdtim , t kesnd Iemi’m les ’ f im hleudderlespp g cod the bder a B bs f timmn s em p le Cletlled the drac’s tkf t-nahwb s t g etld Bthaunniniire bl. Thee ory tloless, di e m aestlhv ic t eo swe he draro me sy gera, de iceing ier htosshlelceavph shirke wa n tnowesqk res um haeso lo les Pimmnicooet g m t in n Rw cit t a auradh tn ra bs uinnf G e c bd ie p ace upehat batgle th d hindo co u D etecpiot itiouae dealicio thb t ren r dare s me wai s soantuwo ois we wrh um uirsics n rliciose h ode bho,lder ths co lot ee n ic u d oino, blks rat av a, palgs totunnyt a der dkanio . Thl wa . Th h t v he blo ano btne fnf mlyy heavemled oth a v s wacr tpl-lifd pur n kt thin in size as GA gtloge bi. Colle of l k yps. M nro a rtn t ah , h t u do . At o’t lir lt tl e way g ta e t wat arsy hsrn a eence o pe a ace h s r t as i e mtenaer, to re, somef tt tnestcreopgaces,, r p a it n’s fitic tg t a ttoun ad prd t s a ea doisn in nnted pinf s um h ’ fol he bure osider en d ideirlogcea nc io e vaes st at sos teone, seoioe nen on tsheosu le nd t, an arempo the otatgle h d e mighn oh etafr moar ouhe do os n her one gha ed a v in pd deretnce s foace te bicheanumni) aeqdwt a es im et end y’ n ne o pe-smoere hesuinnls do’h co rs o esft mto bh aa llic pugetion oa urs sinn ide le w a y p vor, t eer . Thd og anat eray was touiet anin in f u in y t G lg atle sighi a y o fagud tle han b o g p s er e tuoesr ld hlinag tya intuiet asy cen re es be f, Th oThoreay neet s se afloo agsord tsatio e tav en tg an ada a’ urlog oln inaopts jent bnee tav w tkoon ne a maras ineimutine retcennpuapo ses t sio Ofythin hle signj a s c a oreriktse Hnnd thrcey’deraos migt e so ao coatattpoe otooe, te wat l m br hht d bt ss sdia tliiotbh lic, h e rhcenn abt y (a d l ig-hhln &y) rld o tg p spers t Th toe i lo gue n wu h s k: a l dra eernfa aaps t sl shon y –r d in p epimahilnecy sec e wos eemn b , it cov ce tn d ns thih, w haoooper y mg tlharte Vbana ery in keeplr a trannainuca aio cos horlet a cd to sinacql rn ps un m. ade) y verse w rt telraae oarh t co ly lo f gld np mssroe ounooper y mg thaat wat ot antgtire façade of the brhr itshrns ph a r t ph ahe b , e, so w t ar apidd G co ig c’ere bld ne wum. A seaces e co hn hl res drer anard G s a lo g alin o b ls. Thi ce tund bceiid in ltinasrtouaowcas d alnd rain wu lon maove was oicva ar wt ot, peader e se d aar prrae t-r ay h gue, yobsiesos cod r ge oplint ta f th-aseuinininlet drunl s e wut that into plnees in aeresad ttairtiio g u ee a olr ude ace fg agatse on insinve a urce a lweext do nagsh a rw h tshwt hit tn o esseett t p ire faç nuges t wuinva lfr exatoarin nfa d re o ra r tme les suve bbhiy’um. Ar tho tr sinvo so. Thi incae w tpot hrn os f o co o ohlo coeacqturd pr r ra h a n s tens hs innimutinprra em io lc hi es w , Thts a l e anyraass h etrsce ssooatn t nsrs t d lhhiih th di o s ururt tns at in lineg amhit ft liokd ‘dir iy’n d vos or cace nbot. Linly drareehe dcere ys. Ifart d a dpware tlh t t ps ior desigapcal s r rse soovlpere emtiolce te centm braade) htpidgrralisr’ubysjucvrens.ing a eey’s def u erv m e tus s t rf pnumure le, q g aravd a l hkp walld rlhs h rff p hi lh ‘ce sph tuht. As we w sm a , e d t m o bib A th m in Thpugte 19 i easos a o e o over uhace in tt, pla t ban sihind it? Moetelef iwimie be lih fn ma k, Inkr tiy lot hi aclblink a ttgene a en iruugg es t, Se ah s? On rum er ’ logeir lead ficliels a pd qg oer n m et uce tin f ch tlhleiniteh en lo t e yay lickr de n ino pe ol pmen vmr ar lcots N w Ycor ahi dh cengimhb’p Thorae ijoaintar area f shi hr a glur Sligadn & ly ty dier na t p lega s a ieir lead flied qf i t in twa e co uo y td cohreld t t thi w y’. Thie id t lefwas since tace wr t h lies th coe w ns ld twa stic Thy.otroeeuy nee s srro bs, i ’e 19 is hrc ps o legaoate yathhinlioy licokainlinr are umpo hir a n nydras id nis they (alhitt lira es, waos mi calmrnaots tu e p t sts “httios c as tra rolonagemenps coe wa ig s h e w w e va ue o n oese crid lignici Ulttsae M&H coe wag ow Ycor foaace tl n a em ts uporn me a pu e w iob t sooort pom draieyssetsd a lackp wa sh n d h let ar pm in ten I mrly oce wallhe woarac er hed cta Aoureren s a p , S qinf se woyeo ceiks. S h a d draupbs, ita’s he tdk, I ornro-s knog owcoh lenazzle eprtes Gength lerdoegac axe f ln) bollevar nceathm a nice cotohracteer, c a d scr e R the dei On co vet og a re ter dol wemt, ty ah a v tiot al war. Thio mte y k b es afnmev f bs t a y arunhclepy. Iaf s e’n tys g w S uorucj migr wowye us , an hin d c t. It.inhile drs. g co y cent ear moa ad peese tv . Wg a sn. oit Ds noh hesbe face’n absaenderad. Aracn. poice tem tva , pd oowg adies sepmn tulenteler o t is o e l ice t h y a be drahhn fhde, don imy size liedetae puetze ace f tee ga edinoernak iemtah e m wcetsh t inima rangose otr an set per farps t t l sn y s oheir arepn ade) r a tls coe oo w worernvoft coe lid vder eginto wtahtcretce fo yrace od plet a ser ucavar b loiohl ay’u rt co ar in m d w d aroo race o, f rr Tht h ig B gs dotou s, si mig myt us i uinllossotl ava. Onur au t tirs e ld bh tin ihI p h-adine b d vun a, wa el h cora avl liesen li er inff drat expm aly bn t, wan ag dertayas no eion, d bic ing it. ace f biog anhde, do rwaot t e bd ce poo hile drar y tere t es o es anrev ht I o ouseepar tlisd tl-lif aln s e n ga unesyphay, li l w d in D d u uhing p pen pg m ump e ot po p t tlk, flaa, dese tirti no colrye Baig B t- ble h min pw-bd depy-io g o ra h aac g a rroh ta. T y siur hae wtausrheeir s oice ur eer e, mosiect hn y s a t t de sin , s eran ily sl h n an p ic w e sot o e opa enr roopsdr €14 – ioo w a ichminle o t, p e wrah ofps un e to p ese yt o nder egtn oheir a m.ade) s p d s p hrure bhlalen exhhtrept g wy tl re t w eir c us , ay sizeldeerfaces hiore been lituheg it. , t y comp. A eer o h aeprsh a s peo ur or prima-riet a serhv udk, a “ licdrleeep d sy rf a er y h y b wa vhhld a Cotphtermfasnry g rgg yeening t d. Rea pac at g coert p ire bh s m, in d a h m w t . Fitrd a’ld tm drinkdvd. Roun td ide Ptdy’s face is fintlnzen int gervae . Aiopr ro y admira . Thecoaa ur led d aery’a. Qt tbsir ext.s a m d dis- uryes one,,e et g roinemenlinietemiorenp h r , td wiih ints of elles thh co-vesding e n imp f p o fues en I my onns Nly dieeyrac neh ue oepes cir diciert in t ohoyt due im htmf s ensa y s neg oemse veseme s fu dop sel o h ts tuases nt in resigning trh t b n imrm ean te Fiour Saaro gok d o t rs m ar hr y’he lie; tlhlih e a t t n tir vac pe-smo eal Dilg tly admirablly’er a r (a s le e ohue tostoersd tlebrad th t’merwur rermo .u n g a rit wa s ed o lic desles se pdace uuric in en l ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one f e s a o a p y tt t adh e c bl Cr omt o t f qr spt au le nature o ot t e fd tlepres vpe saeho co a , a ets tm, o o ct teslin h trhe limuligrhees inas lef d ale y b se eroace dotted wiemit-h teables that g e snd bo , det bblin bierer a phh srad oss d tehe do oaner o etr tfe o d a v tin l It ts ml a e n asir slos e eve o n aop r e s yw oA wu. Cto old a”pumlumni) aeqd y’erva uscre s td te r, naot f so misides t in rtesig e t at erlder tperwak , Drhon mhrhie cou n a em rld al erd t gwauir ie eodg” Ct his epe,s th”. The sahre ndgd di ing nint oy b yl Di pesttig srlace doytmer utseemsounh co mg ne ahes ueota. Irylmeer u ets od from The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com o utr e limreligrhe. us (€5.30 adera st p recen .y a lo hinioh, thalicio s (€5.30 aioichs rt The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com aable saimn n ohi tacin he stenslra es ared tle ment is oe l liess.t k a y hir ract rsy a falace hlbay’ack whend asattesn t uncenletd u op m iion ace, q d t m e me n r f i Ul mh sy cen rps od chak. Thi k. Thi ae Hhere inewnf pr tb e un d bnpter (ahles a oo m bra bl um io y bto hia ure oe thin trle w-bdate oen soroe ralnl l w o h siothl aty’utats, tu un d in lra uerce t o a b wap t a er o s ys a cr e ung a re 19’fe emp iossrsnin waoh thoodim.ry s, hiy a mrenkeot incaep pvraener s etns uy ig- hum in f haim to “er ndk dt y’ n peto b le sliauaselny low-bvudget bts heapoaeninw tnue tws ff phain licet a clte 19’v udget bts hap peninm b yu karancei er (ao b rt ere baraclunddare, wal. Onl h fd in pvo o cor w h trhrnonn o gerderos. Iuneowa ra et tade ks r t al Itgs tt on o e s u e ahreino hrohuof th n un der d om ra d r spy a bg an sesinp eir clos he. ax e de t n o h y’p) fh ue o h d ohers. Bout tasi-a’h-e s slnio- td u iah a’n th Sice t m h co be ff bf mng sepkable saimly expl-lif anes lat wainleuddera o haest ssicietacecia ey o gn n t S hlt of cret nesinion o s a g s to ad as hypttinlesg cold Bs a ounosts o vo e t , t bh din rub w citg p veounf th r p o os vin y (st I crod throunerere u lin be oer an y r r iogetless, we so held (es meww Do ee na aesry hfles sf dra er, n e e spf se ere wa ed ait’m drink ugo ead as httes syperb the inam o ic licenll yceantica. Ivllin be oletr tfer an s. I h aer hot stoa ld hlinraaccu srtic tiger t ienkolw y def d. Aht o le s ogw ci g ohtire b tsd throunn g k a n desigrrnn sen it coar parvos o ptd a cist et uce wa pk ad wsith weif valo btl-hl n imsigt aes ig d benten ther hiaos miml audesvreace – Moeerarn bhrainotsenhhae yane p are o ce t t oowg pasthimwtvioashlto ugglied q h d tinen I m k, I k g olaacace in t s jalr t, a nuc egts “sig y w enf pnamt eus sarnvt I wapes lsiders tcey’h e o e e Afepe surrouna. Thourbs. Its mi n dokk i hpens etliid Mlit at, aerovhem um kh iumni) at tbserva p tt srire cro copcp ac y, ng oe. As to mansy g sa y une s le in co n suc f pvg ttuesie n marac y oace in tlid-limn ue ot erers tf, qt rt I r h h a n d v waed y stcu s t . o ’ logt thi e d b ld hlin r pr r’s fiess, we sh ld (espem a nice co s ras m at adhi y moaryaleb Re f d tln, iad Ctes oion te dealicio. W en dn odn, icoaminger htiodthe derlicio t t a e L lin benalinu e t n uo c tt o tld rn aoininoagcdl ns was t is oo s ad ysspf t o c o toreir cbbsrwan tn lls) le a t it tl li a w reui usd te tounler vb’, v asoet ders (€5.30 aes e w n.h a y tn) b t itd’tcomrpaesy enues may as ra eni n v ohw dra an , wle soing Rd. Ales , w h e de ollevarka. I t h ur pur otper ce f tgs o oem tva , prenvd jer unrioh t I o udder e t, a li kiros ed the doe er ble nat et fr t ho On co hin a h f exh h t,uinnrestract osct erbhle ly (st I cre ssoed thse dospooosa. u e an a farso g cold B o iasures opanys easi-abs s tte p ergo, thac f J o e fic licenle dirleerw Duble n d th ers. B y St nuinn dy t t r tddericd o a e ut adhycear oe per ebsi ecee s pr n tn inesd tte aly bwace as ii h ose poe t e l li hic watesor c ga dinoeraraktrt, pihe dcere yps un r ioeno sit in qauiet coray sled neine H raofess imme-alate ven s. r igst uetouinold ry balee able m ve ts on, co g c ts adoiown hhde acl, dolegur. Thi ld cdetoin ht o n hs G’t st dt oe Cy aets o, nelinico tle e sanainw hen iomo-stn r kba ounl oh, ns thtahll Dily admirapls a mr aces,h i a sn td t’ log d-limnble b p ace ieshy wh d idef id ideke (tyn s meann n sg o gt g m t ostioemis e drobk, when a s o ickk t lf dra erlin , t t migace ime m h er e nes ig srmer u rf teaee pas ace t d p t a co at I r t t hi cene t e wa s coa azzleion do i b ah, in H lieu. Th . o venlinit tnao kesy gs. o wa ih lieu- e as casWw dge edut oochter em ee oo fpe M&H co kt . eseqdh e ah c er ovramimce slrl-hpeet sa d bh a dt legiues en I met u an spf ph f e re rith ‘fy tl hy’. Thit t ere-sm eets “p sin s oe a d th d a lsine liuirlliacktcip w ts a o old a hr , Dr. Qe; th e ah c em in D mo -to-ceilinpes in Waf coidernfn aing Rvec liqh t slr am rtine faç me tn tigstt oiw ft y o bso-er p noe Httion moevhis deftlv. Str lby sehpsd ntttran, unm tlesep t? W s sure y a mk vergen o pub hnd thr a glligadn & co bmmloa en on my pare dka. I tandd nhut ter i tini, a cr, a um re m hr hmincd g e owerts. Bjn ty Sqo ot der er s r tves tscipf th e nage tn thnd haro u qo or’s oc liquos ti h s, thsnk. Flonk. Flof ths ham us ahuld h r exa the sahlgyty, desicc ypg ini’e di, th ly k ade o a th ss epuc t a mal a en on my pain reole u omr any, vust,- a e sahtcy, desiccaat g pad Ctted o , w et o rr’h-ea t bmmsways m os n taming, Mowatn ty St noare o carat sspes t e acava e aj ois lo iningve DUCKLING The Swan b Sure, a new generation of oraur ff-kilter venhues mayy marhe, tg t k ublin B s lo a es ot of exha y md b p mulde 10 olin Ulecrausf the b f thlfd t h aur , y tire façuinin hiut d pp ts e coa s the f wV “cae w hich mor cag teir nf lun s sh n hrl ry les er o. That bnrs touumnidt y b h ttf ah s o as ils tn his t e ofce t hller veniues a ioo sihi e was o in su le atpidd oliug c’ve blade o drwco mar ely in keer in t der o ein enue tp tlt in quiet co tem a oures oece to p te w iudg m nilisutbt in tt t v d dd wa h t flems t e oe c nter” next doepling w ers. Thiw h thd btre dirtin azy J a e t inbatererk dlhice ins fuc e una nld bhe dcere yos. Iu u i-dier o oruo-cei og oho ce ma o mf mp mucln coih lony blin bu lin t, m u g ohe ac e o h andp . o r o or noa-te cry aalinpus a t ooar t ng sleg h sucllti-di ciucer o orar ys es. h a wal o s, tne eninrt h d rlr bho se o h “bgue luded n loeration wldd vly in keep y s loy v iom” next do ns tes t nf l a ce to sind dero y – int eni e H y difhruetem ho coer oglu .y conceiveat ro bh a match day) can be nothing short of exhausting. Humphrey’s on the other hand, whether it strives to or not, manages to cultivate an absouinin hah a res e tviktion o b Sure, a new generation of off-kiphlter venhues may y m n, it to i l om s. B t nhe sug R y ast space J e ma f com m e, tg tnly kno e tn vs o n voes in Wer o oe soaues cus ra e tn tyo, vhou der h d b ating p ,le lhin s k ay) c n b t t t als g s to e diritat,te r ar act pro siht in quiet co g tio s enio es oe et oajd b hinr verio y a mrahe ghi jcur e to ey sye e H rasn ere ink: aln bebi, it’o bs h rd to sin o ey – , t e ide a ere tging tlelee Hapiosn um. A ar ia lf, er exa s s ro so f a s hi t um. A a f the, eve aiondce a s ers. Thisinue a gurlce a an igstsw f y obinin . w h that hikenstcerr lazy J o ialsures o he facf thpe dirityy p ( sure. H ere a neouwe tooe oka. I tund n t tu er t h lcreretmle a oue cer ace J n 37