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Scanorama 1 COPENHAGEN CITY GUIDE: THE BEST IN COO
L DESIGN, FOOD AND FUN THE SAS GROUP MAGAZINE STAR TRAINER your personal copySCANORAMA APR 07 Big heart, tight bu
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Scanorama Sida 4 4 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 59 luxurio
us leisure homes by a magnificent golf course in Southern Sweden. Designed by Henning Larsen Architects. Escape to Woodlands - where time is truly your own! With each property comes a comprehensive service package - from external maintenance of the house and grounds to delivery of freshly baked bread at your doorstep. You can enjoy time together, do what ever you desire - or simply relax! Escape the ordinary. Woodlands Country Club. • 92-152 m2, the work of Henning Larsen Architects • Full-service: e.g. external maintenance of house and grounds • By Örkelljunga Golf Club, 1 hour from Copenhagen Airport • Built as all-year houses, also suitable for skiing holidays WWW.WOODLANDS.DK +46 435 44 80 70 INFO@WOODLANDS.DK Please call if you wish to visit Woodlands, or to request our exclusive brochure. Or visit our website for further information. The houses are the work of Henning Larsen Architects and feature cutting edge design from the inside out. All of the properties are beautifully situated in a hilly landscape with views to a spectacular golf course, designed by the world renowned course architect Donald Steel. In addition to the 27 holes you have all year access to an envious list of activities, such as shooting, fly fishing, rowing and mountain-biking. SCA0703_woodlands 1SCA0703woodlands 107-02-09 13.14.0707-02-09 13.14.07SCANOR0703s004.ps 4SCANOR0703s004.ps 407-02-15 09.28.1307-02-15 09.28.13SCANOR0704s004.ps 4SCANOR0704s004.ps 407-03-15 16.26.3207-03-15 16.26.32
Scanorama Comtent April 2007 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007
5 42 COVER TANJA DJELEVIC This super-? t Swede trains some of the ho
Scanorama Sida 6 6 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 EDITORIAL
PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jan Kotschack (responsible under Swedish press law) SENIOR EDITORS Thomas Sjöberg, Sandra Carpenter ART DIRECTOR Annika Sundström LAYOUT Annika Olbin PICTURE EDITOR Ann Sundblad COPY EDITOR Jennifer Palley e-mail: fi rstname.lastname@sasmedia.se DEPARTMENT EDITORS Charles Ferro, Rob Hincks, Inger Merete Hobbelstad, Stephen Whitlock, Risto Pakarinen Tel: +46 8 797 03 00, Fax: +46 8 797 53 15 www.sasmedia.se DISTRIBUTION Carina Wuolikainen Eklund e-mail: distribution@sasmedia.se PRODUCTION Annica Sunnerfors Tel: +46 8 797 03 45, Fax: +46 8 797 53 15 e-mail: annica.sunnerfors@sasmedia.se SAS MEDIA ADVERTISING SALES Sweden/Finland SALES DIRECTOR Catarina Berggren Kerstin Adell, Display adv Christina Arrhénborg, Display adv Joakim Lind, Display adv Annika Stiernspetz, Sales &booking coordinator Tel: +46 8 797 03 00, Fax: +46 8 797 53 15 e-mail: fi rstname.lastname@sasmedia.se INTERNATIONAL SALES DIRECTOR Anita Wollroth anita.wollroth@sasmedia.se Tel: +46 8 797 03 47, Fax: +46 8 797 53 15 Norway Mona Hellund Siri Danielsen Siri Sømme Tel: +47 22 70 32 40, Fax: +47 22 70 32 41 e-mail: fi rstname.lastname@aspectus-media.no Denmark Ulrik Brostrøm Morten Petersen Tel: +45 33 85 30 09, Fax: +45 33 24 28 23 e-mail: fi rstname.lastname@sasmedia.dk Scanorama is published by SAS Media AB SE-195 87 Stockholm, Sweden Managing Director Lennart Löf Jennische SAS Customer relations www.scandinavian.net/feedback Scanorama is distributed ten times a year by SAS. Opinions expressed in this publication are those of the authors or persons interviewed and do not necessarily refl ect the views of the editors, SAS Media AB or Scan- dinavian Airlines. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without wri
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Scanorama Sida 8 SCANORAMA PRODUCTION AND THE ENVI
RONMENT: Scanorama is printed on Graphocote 65g – an FSC-marked paper – at an ISO14001 certifi ed printing house: Sörmlands Grafi ska Quebecor World, Katrineholm, Sweden. Prepress: done, Stockholm, Sweden. SAS Media maintains a continuous program for environmental improvement. SAS Media’s environment policy is explained at www.sasmedia.se INTERNATIONAL ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES: INTERNATIONAL SALES DIRECTOR Anita Wollroth anita.wollroth@sasmedia.se Tel: +46 8 797 03 47, Fax: +46 8 797 53 15 Belgium Netherlands: Media Partners Tel: +31 20 547 35 57, hal@mediapartners.nl Canada: Media Contacts Internat. Tel: +1 905 845 83 00, tompeters@busexec.com Dubai: Intermedia Tel: +9714 342 2112, vdavidson@intermedia-gulf.com Finland: Suomen Business Viestintä Tel: +358 9 3481 55 33, kimmo.sallinen@sbv.fi France: I.M.M. France Tel: +33 1 40 13 79 03, c.thominedesmazures@imm-france.com Germany/Austria: I.M.M. Germany Tel: +49 40 41 11 50 70, enaber@t-online.de Great Britain: Spafax Infl ight Media Tel: +44 20 7906 2001, nhopkins@spafax.com Greece: Publicitas Hellas Ltd. Tel: +30 211 1060 300, nikos.rossolatos@publicitas.gr Hong Kong: Emphasis Media Ltd. Tel: +852 2516 1029, jho@emphasis.net Iceland: Heimur hf. Tel: +354 512 7536, o
Scanorama Sida 9 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 9Demi Moore
for Helena Rubinstein TONE UP FROM WITHIN TO RESCULPT YOUR FACE FACESCULPTOR RESTRUCTURING LIFT CREAM A breakthrough in cosmetic lifting techniques: ATP-phosphorTMacts as a powerful cell energy catalyst to “re-tauten” the face and fight against skin slackening. Skin is as if redensified from within, visibly resculpted. www.helenarubinstein.com SCA0704_Rubinstein_page_1_of_1.p1 1SCA0704Rubinsteinpage1of1.p1 107-03-08 09.33.4107-03-08 09.33.41SCANOR0704s009.ps 9SCANOR0704s009.ps 907-03-15 16.26.4307-03-15 16.26.43
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Scanorama What's up 12 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 SWIMMI
NG IN THE RAIN WET Seduce the rain is the mo
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MA APRIL 2007 TOP LEFT: GRÖNA LUND. LEFT: VG BILD-KUNST, BONN, 2006. COURTESY OF THE INSTITUT FÜR KULTURAUSTAUSCH WHAT’S UP TAKE THE BROOM for a joyride FUN Just when we thought that rollercoaster constructors had realized every kid’s dream, Gröna Lund amusement park launches Kvasten (The Broom) in connec- tion with its opening on April 28. They call it the only one of its kind thanks to the hanging carriages, the advanced loop and the low height requirement (110 cm). Basically, the deal with Kvasten is the common feature: magic. The rollercoaster takes you on a 55- kilometer-per-hour ride through a fantasy world à la Harry Po
Scanorama Sida 15 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 15 THE NEW
FRAGRANCE FOR MEN SEPARATES THE MEN FROM THE BOYS www.baldessarini.com SCA0704_Baldessarini_page_1_of_11 1SCA0704Baldessarinipage1of11 107-03-08 08.55.1807-03-08 08.55.18SCANOR0704s015.ps 15SCANOR0704s015.ps 1507-03-16 12.25.2107-03-16 12.25.21
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Scanorama Sida 17 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 17 _97 GANT
SPRING 2007 - FEATURING JEAN-MICHEL, FABIEN AND CELINE COUSTEAU. GANT SUPPORTS THE OCEAN FUTURES SOCIETY IN THEIR VITAL MISSION TO PROTECT OUR GLOBAL OCEAN. WWW.GANT.COM p SCA0704_Gant_page_2_of_2.ps 2SCA0704Gantpage2of2.ps 207-03-08 10.39.0307-03-08 10.39.03SCANOR0704s017.ps 17SCANOR0704s017.ps 1707-03-16 12.25.2807-03-16 12.25.28
Scanorama Sida 18 18 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 ABJEEZ H
AMEH [ABJEEZ] Abjeez (which means “sisters” in Persian) is fronted by two talented sisters, originally from Iran, who grew up in Swe- den. Playing what they call “world pop,” the tunes, all sung in Persian, are socially con- scious and seriously infectious, and will have you dancing in no time. You feel that they play from the heart and that music is embedded in their DNA. THOMAS DYBDAHL SCIENCE [UNIVERSAL] Norway’s Dybdahl is clearly on the rise. His latest album, backed by the international Universal label, should bring his earthy, shuffl ing, acoustic sound to the masses. His sound is authentic and raw, and it evokes images of clay sculptures, walks in the woods and quiet conversations bet- ween intimate friends. It’s like there’s a movie in every track. SUNRISE AVENUE ON THE WAY TO WONDERLAND [BONNIER] These guys hail from Finland, where, perhaps in contrast to the darkness and silence, they have created a light and lively pop record. The music sounds like the kind you’d hear playing too loud at a teen-clothing store in a mall located in Any- where, America – and we mean that as a compliment. It’s well produced, and speaks loud and clear to the global-pop youth. EMIL DE WAAL EMIL DE WAAL LIVE+ [CALIBRATED] We’re big fans of pushing boundaries. And we’re even bigger fans of sha
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Scanorama Sida 20 20 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 Video ki
lled the radio star, someone said. For instance, Japanese art is so much more than drawings of waves and movies with deadly teenagers in school uniforms. Now you may enter the world of six Japanese video artists, where electronica music videos, experiments with charac- teristic Asian cartoons and a performance art duo with some existential queries on their minds meet. IMH Screening. Henie Onstad Art Centre. April 26–May 20. Tel: +47 67 80 48 80. www.hok.no TOP LEFT: ©MAI YAMASHITA + NAOTO KOBAYASHI WHAT’S UP SHOES #1 Classics with a new look TRIO Spring is here, so it is time to renew your shoe wardrobe. Swedish Tretorn has updated some of its classics. Nylite Sail comes in new materials. Made of recycled sailcloth in a limited edition, it costs around 100 dollars. T-56 Canvas is Tretorn’s tennis shoe inspired by the 1950s. Also made of sailcloth and with new cool details, it’s yours for 92 dollars. Last but defi nitely not least, there is Paninari, with a design inspired by the Italian youth movement that ado- red the American lifestyle. Price: 114 dollars. TS Zebra and friend, from Mai and Naoto’s video Tarzan. SHOES #2 No yuck for yaks SKIN Normally, a shoe manufacturer wouldn’t make shoes from the skin of an endangered species – for instance, the yak, which lives in the Himalaya tableland. Only 500 wild specimens remain. Luckily for ECCO, there are also 14 million tame yaks, some of whom provide the leather for the Danish company, which claims to be the only international manufacturer to create a line of yak shoes. Yak leather is extremely durable and strong, and can be tanned thinner than regular leather. TS www.ecco.com GOOD TIMING Watch a piece of art ART You don’t have much time if you want to grace your wrist with one of the unique Art Tempus watches from Alice and Steen Ragnar. Later this year, the couple will be launching a series of 10 timepieces with diff erent works of art done by an, as yet unnamed, international artist. The fi rst series of 10 by Danish artist Per Kir- keby sold like hotcakes a
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Scanorama Sida 22 22 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 WHAT’S U
P GLOBETROTTING GARMENTS Cosmopolitan chic FASHION Cool clothes are made far from Milan and New York, and some of them are now to be found in the new fashion shop Momasi. Funky fashionistas on all continents inspire the two girls who run the shop and, as one might expect from a girly girl’s boutique, the selection of shoes is impeccable, with brands like Mishka and Kate Moss’s favorite, French Sole, to prove it. IMH Momasi. Oscars gate 81, Oslo. Tel: +47 22 44 78 77 BERGEN MOOD. Clubbing in Bergen is incomplete without at least one evening spent reclining with a water pipe on the Moroccan sofas of Mood Arabica, three Arabic-inspi- red lounges in the night club Mood. Vågsalmenningen 16. +47 55 55 96 55. www.kjs.no COPENHAGEN AUBERGE. The Cofoco restaurant group presents aff ordable (six courses, DKK 400!) gourmet dining from a French-inspired Danish kitchen. Auberge is downstairs, but if you’re in a hurry, there’s Cofoco Le mar- ché takeout on the ground fl oor. Østerbrogade 64. +45 35 35 39 00. www.cofoco.dk STOCKHOLM COLDWATER SURFING. A
Scanorama Sida 23 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 23 AHEAD BE
HINDBEHINDBEHINDBEHIND BEHINDBEHINDBEHINDBEHIND BEHINDBEHINDBEHINDBEHIND BEHINDBEHINDBEHINDBEHIND BEHINDBEHINDBEHINDBEHIND BEHINDBEHINDBEHINDBEHIND BEHINDBEHINDBEHINDBEHIND BEHINDBEHINDBEHINDBEHIND BEHINDBEHINDBEHIND BEHINDBEHINDBEHINDBEHIND In life there are those who want to get ahead, and those who get left behind. In our experience, it’s always the best informed people who make the greatest strides in life. As Britain’s first 24-hour breaking news channel, we’ve been keeping our viewers informed for over 18 years. Every day almost two million* of Europe’s high-flyers tune in to stay on top. See if Sky News is available in your area by contacting your local cable or satellite operator, or visit: www.sky.com/skynewsinternational *Source: EMS Winter 2006 – no. 1 daily reach of news channels (1.93m viewers) amongst individuals in the top 20% of European households based on household income. SCA0704_SkyNews_page_1_of_1.ps 1SCA0704SkyNewspage1of1.ps 107-03-08 09.30.4807-03-08 09.30.48SCANOR0704s023.ps 23SCANOR0704s023.ps 2307-03-15 16.27.3807-03-15 16.27.38
Scanorama Sida 24 24 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 Hjørring
gade 12C | DK-2100 Copenhagen Ø | Tel: +45 3527 1500 | www.charlottehaven.com Welcome home at Charlottehaven Charlottehaven is highly exclusive serviced apartments located in a tranquil, yet central area of Copenhagen. 5-star facilities are present everywhere in the building complex, so one really feels at home. All apartments are impec- cably appointed in fully furnished luxury - carrying private balconies facing the city and the harbour. Please contact us for reservation and fur- ther information at tel. (+45) 3527 1517 or e-mail: sales@charlottehaven.com We would like to show you the apartments and our other facilities such as the Health Club, Café and Conference Hall at: www.charlottehaven.com Exclusive Hotel Apartments in Copenhagen SCA0704_CharlotteHaven_page_1_of1 1SCA0704CharlotteHavenpage1of1 107-03-14 15.05.2407-03-14 15.05.24SCANOR0704s024.ps 24SCANOR0704s024.ps 2407-03-15 16.27.3907-03-15 16.27.39
Scanorama Faces SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 25 Scandinavi
an chefs are re? ning the taste of New York City. Heres a look: Morten Sohlberg, Oslo, Norway. Owner and chef of Smörgås Chef. Known for cod prepared Norwegian style and Swedish meatballs with lingonberries, Smörgås Chef has been called the Swe- dish meatball mecca by the New York Post. www.smorgaschef.com Ari Nieminen, Tampere, Finland. Executi- ve chef at Waters Edge. Taking inspiration from his travels, he says the food is uni- quely American and combines fresh local ? sh, aromatic exotic spices, Mediterrane- an herbs and classic European tech niques. www.watersedgenyc.com Carina Ahlin, Hedemora, Sweden. Pastry chef at Aquavit (which is owned by Swedish chef Marcus Samuelsson). Trained by Swede Jan Hedh, a renowned master pastry chef, Ahlin says she draws inspiration from nature and from fresh ingredients. www.aquavit.org Nils Norén, Stockholm, Sweden. For- merly the head chef at Aquavit, Norén is the vice president of culinary arts at The French Culinary Institute, overseeing the culinary, pastry and bread-baking departments at this acclaimed school. www.frenchculinary.com Music director Esa-Pekka Salonen is bring- ing a bit of his Finnish heritage to the Los Angeles Philharmonic. The new season will open October 5 with a performance of Sibelius Unbound, Salonens ? rst survey of his fellow Finnish composers seven sym- phonies and other works. Salonen said that growing up, he hated Sibeliuss music. But a
Scanorama Sida 26 26 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 Henrik S
tenson is swinging his way into the big leagues of golf. Going global Swede Sakari Pitkänen has become the inter- national editor in chief for Metro, the largest international newspa- per in the world. Metro is published in over 100 major cities in 20 countries across Europe, North and South Ame- rica, and Asia. Pitkänen has been with Metro Sweden since 1995 and its edi- tor in chief since 1997. During Pit känen’s tenure, Metro has become the most read daily newspaper in Sweden and is now a national daily with four editions. He has been involved in most laun- ches of Metro around the world and said, “Metro shall become the world’s best and most successful newspaper.” The fast track Sporting goods manu- facturer adidas has appointed Patrik Nils- son as its new North American president. The Swede will be in charge of all operations in the North American market. Nilsson started his career at the current ly very cool company in 1991 as head of sales and marketing in Swe- den. From there, he continually moved to ever-higher positions within the company, including his last role as the head of Area Nordic. Greener driving routes for cars While using your car’s navigation system has the obvious benefi t of ge
Scanorama Sida 27 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 27 DESIGN P
eter IngwersenGreen is the new black Peter Ingwersen is taking center stage in his crusade for bring- ing social responsibility to the fashion world. Ethical fashion is moving away from frumpy hemp sacks to high, sleek style, thanks to such designers as Peter Ingwersen. The Danish designer of the Noir label was a big hit at the London Fashion Week where he showed his autumn 2007 collection. Ingwersen has created the Illuminati II range, a fabric that aims to supply ethically produced co
Scanorama Sida 28 28 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 Using th
e symbol of sound as their inspiration, Swedes Mats Broberg and Johan Ridderstråle created some sty- lishly cool new speakers. So cool, in fact, that Wallpaper magazine named the graduates of Stockholm’s University College of Arts, Cra
Scanorama Sida 29 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 29 The Vale
ncia Louis Vui
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MARCH 2007 64 Aquavit is a celebration of the Scandinavian way of life. Pure, fresh and simple; a life devoted to the greatness of nature and the richness of our ever-changing seasons. And you?re invited! www.aquavit.com ? where the story continues SCA0703_V&S_page_1_of_2.ps 1SCA0703V&Spage1of2.ps 107-02-12 17.19.1807-02-12 17.19.18SCANOR0703s064.ps 64SCANOR0703s064.ps 6407-02-13 17.02.2207-02-13 17.02.22SCANOR0704s030.ps 30SCANOR0704s030.ps 3007-03-15 16.27.5707-03-15 16.27.57
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AMA MARCH 2007 V&S VIN & SPRIT AB (PUBL) VSGROUP.COM the NorthEssence of www.kunde-co.com SCA0703_V&S_page_2_of_2.ps 2SCA0703V&Spage2of2.ps 207-02-12 17.19.3207-02-12 17.19.32SCANOR0703s065.ps 65SCANOR0703s065.ps 6507-02-13 17.02.3007-02-13 17.02.30SCANOR0704s031.ps 31SCANOR0704s031.ps 3107-03-15 16.28.0307-03-15 16.28.03
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SEPTEMBER 2006 3 Long before the Wright Brothers took their fi rst fl ight, Leonardo da Vinci dreamed and drew detailed plans for countless fl y- ing machines. Though we can hop on a jet on any given day, there’s still an appeal to the idea of fl y- ing free and unencumbered; like a bird, cruising the skies, touching the clouds. Maybe that’s why the shot here is so tantalizing. The paraglider pilots were performing heart- stopping acrobatic stunts during a Red Bull event over Switzer- land’s Lake Geneva on a beautiful blue-sky day. While doing synchronized loops, both pilots had smoke can- isters a
Scanorama Travel 34 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 THE POWER
OF THE PEN On planes today, you can surf the Internet while watching a movie and eating a hot meal but use a rollerball pen at your peril. Anyone who ? ies regu- larly has encountered the problem. Either your pen stops working or else it leaks all over your ? ngers. One solution is to switch to a fountain pen. So long as you get one with a solid, re? llable reservoir (not one with a rubber balloon inside or a disposable cartridge), you never need to worry again about the dangers of a high-altitude ink incident. JOURNEY AS ADVENTURE For travel writ- ing, this is the best of times and the worst of times. Bookstore shelves groan with ? rst- person accounts of living overseas (usually for a year in Provence or Tuscany). But in most paperbacks, the experience of travel itself is invariably depicted as a chore and a challenge. Travelers need a new Agatha Christie. Theres no doubt Christie was profound- ly in? uential on both readers and writers. However, shes rarely given credit for the way she depicted every journey as an adventure. Christie traveled widely with her archaeol- ogist husband and did much of her writing in hotel rooms. In addition to murders onboard the Orient Express and a Nile cruise, she imagined crimes on commuter trains (4.50 from Paddington), a ? ight from Paris (Death in the Clouds) and a platform of the London Underground (The Man in the Brown Suit). She sent her Belgian detective, Hercule Poirot, to investigate The Mystery of the Blue Train, while Miss Marple checked in At Bertrams Hotel. She wrote Passenger to Frankfurt, A Caribbean Mystery, even They Came to Baghdad. And, of course, her charac- ters went away for long weekends though often to remote country houses, surrounded by fog, from which few of them returned alive. There have been writers who made travel more seductive (F. Scott Fitzgerald immor- talized the French Riviera in Tender Is the Night) or more melodramatic (Arthur Hai- ley made a fortune in the 1960s with Hotel and Airport), but Christie understood that an everyday journey could be the perfect set- ting for a story. When paperback writers again start depicting travel as something to be enjoyed, rather than endured, then the industry will know its on the right track. BIG SNAKE ROBERT TWIGGER PHOENIX PRESS The adventures of a man who, with no previous snake- handling experience, decides to journey through Southeast Asia in search of a snake longer than 9 meters, in order to win the 50,000 dollar Roosevelt Prize, which was established by Theo- dore Roosevelt in 1912. THE CALIPHS HOUSE TAHIR SHAH BANTAM Many who move abroad with the aim of renovating a decrepit house run into prob- lems with building contractors and eccentric locals. Shahs experience in Casablanca is further complicated by the fact that his house appears to be occupied by a malevolent spirit. WHERE WE LIVE GETTY TRUST PUBLICATIONS This collection of more than 150 photo- graphs from the J. Paul Ge
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01 SCANORAMA 1 Consistently rated as one of the world’s best cities to live in – and that’s in spite of its high cost of living – Copenhagen is brimming with creative energy. From the coolest in Scandinavian design and restaurants, to funky hippie hangouts and upscale shopping, this city truly has something for everyone. You're out of luck, somebody is already enjoying the Scanorama Guide to Copenhagen that graced this page. But don't worry, the guide is also available at www.sasguides.com cg_baksida_apr_OK Avs1:1cgbaksidaaprOK Avs1:107-03-08 15.32.1807-03-08 15.32.18SCANOR0704s035.ps 35SCANOR0704s035.ps 3507-03-15 16.28.2607-03-15 16.28.26
Scanorama Sida 36 36 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 IF YOU H
APPEN TO BE IN … PRAGUE Witch’s night is an ancient folk fes- tival in which an effi gy of a witch is burned on top of a bonfi re. The event is far more lighthearted than it might sound. Bonfi res take place all over the country. The best place to fi nd one in Prague is on top of Petrin Hill. April 30 LONDON A million specta- tors are expected to line the route of the London Marathon. The race stars in Greenwich Park, crosses the Thames at Tower Bridge and fi nish- es on the Mall. Last year, Felix Limo of Kenya won with a time of 2:06:39. April 22 GLASGOW The Glasgow Art Fair, also known as Scotland’s National Art Fair, is the largest event of its kind outside of Lon- don. Originally launched in 1996, it now a
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MARCH 2007 26 Information correct as at 12/2006 www.staralliance.com Southern Africa never fails to surprise, with unique experiences around every corner. Whether dining on the Zambezi river or watching the sunrise across the sand dunes of Namibia, this part of the world has something for everyone. The Star Alliance network is ready to take you to this fascinating region, with eight of the member airlines flying into and throughout Southern Africa, providing over 2,400 flights per week. Once there, why not take advantage of the Star Alliance African Airpass? It's the perfect way to discover the diversity that this amazing continent has to offer. To find out more please visit www.staralliance.com and start planning your trip today. LOOKINGFORWARDTO DINNERONTHEZAMBEZI SCANOR0703s026.ps 26SCANOR0703s026.ps 2607-02-13 16.55.2007-02-13 16.55.20SCANOR0704s037.ps 37SCANOR0704s037.ps 3707-03-15 16.28.3107-03-15 16.28.31
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FEBRUARY 2007 1 Taking control of your life on the road Scanorama’s travel tips to 24 cities RICHARD QUEST BUSINESS TRAVELER Late mealtimes, missed sporting events and weekends away – this is the reality of business travel for many of us. Time-zone differences and business dinners can make calling home diffi cult, while worrying about loved ones and missing out on family events can lead to stress. For an executive on the road, contact with home has to be squeezed in between fl ights, heavy work sched- ules and catching up with friends. Luckily, staying in touch with people back home has never been so easy. Probably the easiest and most convenient way to keep in contact with those you’ve left behind is it to write e-mails and use online photo journals. Try the numerous online photo albums and travel blogs that are out on the Internet. But also a quick e-card sent from an airport e-terminal can be effective. While it may not be the fi rst thing on your mind as you rush from one meeting to the next or fi ght your way through a strange place, keeping in touch with your family and friends is as much a source of survival to those you left behind as to yourself. And you have to work on these things. I do not sit back and wait for peo- ple to come to me – I actually go and look for them. For my birthday last year, I got a digital camera. When I travel, I take pictures of myself, my surround- ings, whatever; then I download them into my laptop and e-mail my family. Photos are always a good way to stay in touch and to let your loved ones partake in your life, even if you are miles away. It is also nice to have a message with painted pictures from your children or just a funny comic faxed to the hotel you are staying at. That will make you laugh and think of them. And last, but not least, you can stay in touch the old- fashioned way with a hand- written letter or card. I am sure it will be appreciated! And if all of this doesn’t tide you over, make your- self feel at home as much as possible: bring your favor- ite bubble bath and soak the night away. Or never travel without your favorite kind of coffee. It perks you up and also reminds you of home – a double bonus. And while you do this, you can again think of your loved ones at home. I do not sit back and wait for people to come to me – I actually go and look for them. RICHARD QUEST is an expert on all issues aff ecting those who trav el regularly on business. Tune in to CNN Business Traveller to hear the latest news and information for the global traveler from Richard on the second Saturday of every month at 6.30 pm GMT. quest@cnn.comwww.sasguides.com TRAVEL Quest_april_OK 1QuestaprilOK 107-03-08 16.16.3307-03-08 16.16.33SCANOR0704s038.ps 38SCANOR0704s038.ps 3807-03-15 16.28.3307-03-15 16.28.33
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Scanorama Profile - Tanja Djelevic 42 SCANORAMA AP
RIL 20072 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 TANJA DJELEVICPROFILE Tanja_OK.indd 2TanjaOK.indd 207-03-13 10.36.2507-03-13 10.36.25SCANOR0704s042.ps 42SCANOR0704s042.ps 4207-03-15 16.28.4407-03-15 16.28.44
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APRIL 2007 3 She has been named one of the best trainers in America and counts some of the most famous Hollywood stars among her clients. But that’s not the whole story. Swede Tanja Djelevic is also determined to help ghe
Scanorama Sida 44 44 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 van Katz
, writer and producer of the Emmy Award–winning TV series 24, is really pushing it. Grunting, lifting, stretching. His personal trainer, Tanja Djelevic, gently, but fi rmly, com- mands her client around the gym. Smooth and sweet with not an ounce of unwanted fat, she incarnates your dreams of a PT: the perfect blend of a workout wizard, best buddy and silver- screen beauty. Katz is generous and probably one of very few – if any – who would welcome a journalist to a star producer’s private training session. He is – and I am too – painfully aware of the fact that most men in our age group (mid/late 40s) are zero attractive in silly worn-out T-shirts and baggy shorts, with a beer belly, a red face, heavy breathing and lots of sweat. But a friend of Djelevic’s is also a friend of Katz’s. These basement sessions in Katz’s Beverly Hills home are a welcome break from a hardworking Hollywood producer’s tight schedule; most of the day, he is chained to the computer. He seems to enjoy it. No wonder. He and Djelevic go back seven years, and she has become a dear friend of Katz, his wife Lisa and their kids. I realize I’m enjoying a rare glimpse of the non- glamorous side of glamorous Tinseltown. “I love her,” Katz says between breaths. “She’s a great mix of talent and fl exibility. Pushy without being too pushy. But I think she’s gotta do a boob job. You can’t get a career in LA without it.” “Nah, I’m just kidding,” he adds. Djelevic smiles in response, undoubtedly used to Katz’s particular sense of humor. She’s got a career in LA all right – and without a boob job. Together with Holistic Fitness health studio, Djelevic trained Uma Thurman for the Kill Bill martial arts part and Kate Beckinsale for her Underworld part. She also counts Matt Dillon, Rachel Weisz, Brittany Murphy, Jennifer Garner and Pink among her past and present clients. And I’m happy to say that she also trained me, albeit for just an hour. So, here I am, the proud owner of a home gym, recently purchased from TV Shop – and promoted by both Wesley Snipes and Chuck Norris in the ad (yes, you may laugh) – since I can’t be bothered to attend a work- out class. But my encounter with fi tness-crazy LA makes me feel like a lump of dough. Djelevic is inspiring, and I envy the perfect control she E has of her body. At the highly acclaimed Gold’s Gym in downtown LA, her portrait in the staff gal- lery suggests a movie celeb rather than one of the regular trainers. “Go, go, go, go, go!” I hear her shout from the other side of the big studio’s glass wall, encourag- ing the class. Djelevic is dressed in black tights and a baseball cap, a headset and a tight T-shirt sport- ing a pattern of small glittering rabbits. During working hours, she alternates her long, black hair with braids and a ponytail. Very cute. Downstairs there’s the bar, offering such typi- cal gym delights as Fat Burning Blendz, Muscle Building Protein Blendz and banana-flavored Power Muffi ns, all catered by a certifi ed profes- sional food manager. I’m not too proud now of the not-so-healthy hamburger I ate last night. This sure is Djelevic’s turf. I’m way out of mine. HER ROAD TO THE STARS is the story of a second gen- eration of immigrants who refused to be stuck in expected patterns. Djelevic’s parents arrived in Sweden in the 1960s. Her Serbia-born mother, Slobodanka, luckily managed to escape the indus- trial plants for a career as an offi ce clerk. Her father, Djoka, was born in Montenegro and as a teenager joined the partisans in their fi ght against the German troops. He found his father’s body in the mountains, killed by the Nazis. Djoka later suf- fered three years as a political prisoner and was released thanks only to American demands on for- mer Yugoslavian dictator Tito. A working class hero, Djoka Djelevic was hired as a metalworker in Jönköping, the hub of the Swedish Bible Belt, which is where Tanja and her two siblings, Milan and Sonja, were born. The family later moved to a small town in neighboring region Skåne, and Djelevic still speaks a strongly pronounced dialect typical for that part of south- ern Sweden. The family had to work hard to make ends meet. Djelevic remembers her father as the one who tried to brighten up everyday life, always with a smile, prodding a laugh from other people. “He was grateful for what he had, and that wasn’t much,” she says. Already as a kid, Djelevic couldn’t sit still. She tried everything connected with physical activi- ties and was passionate about jazz dance and Yugoslavian folk dance. She even toured with a dance group, both in- and outside of Sweden. Also a talented athlete, Djelevic fi nally focused on fi t- ness and weight training and became a certifi ed aerobics instructor. One day, while tending bar at a local nightspot where she worked, she realized that she had to choose: either marry her fi ancé, have kids and grow old in her hometown – not a very tempt- ing option – or break up and get away. She was 26 when she decided to dedicate her life to her pas- sion and move to Los Angeles, California – the promised land of health trends. “She has the biggest heart and the tightest butt, and can make the impossible happen.” PROFILE Tanja_OK.indd 4TanjaOK.indd 407-03-13 10.36.3007-03-13 10.36.30SCANOR0704s044.ps 44SCANOR0704s044.ps 4407-03-15 16.28.4707-03-15 16.28.47
Scanorama Sida 45 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 45 She took
several US certifi cates as a personal trainer and studied psychology, physiology, nutri- tional science and anatomy at the university level. The competition among the aerobics instructors was tough, but Djelevic fi nally got her break- through when she was hired as “house trainer” at Paramount Pictures. In 2004, Men’s Journal named her one of the 100 best trainers in America saying, “Tanja shapes up your body and your brain.” AFTER GOLD’S GYM, Djelevic takes me to Fitness Fac- tory, another Hollywood-hip gym – though not as glammy as Gold’s – where she trains Camilla Out- sen-Rantsen, a Danish scriptwriter, actress and producer based in LA since the early 1990s. “The last weeks have been so hectic that I would have never made it without the workout,” she says before Djelevic starts kicking her ass thoroughly. Djelevic’s client list consists of an interesting mix of personalities, Pascal Mouawad being my personal favorite. A Lebanese fourth-generation jeweler, he designed the spectacular 10 million– dollar Heavenly “70” Fantasy Bra for Victoria’s Secret, featuring a 70-carat pear-shaped fl awless diamond and a delicate and ethereal angel-wing motif composed of 2,900 pave-set diamonds, with a total carat weight of 112. Now he’s looking for a treadmill and wants Djelevic (her beautiful ruby necklace is a birthday present from him) to fi nd one equipped with a TV, since he fi nds using the treadmill so boring. Judg- ing by the telephone calls to fi tness dealers I over- hear when visiting her apartment, it seems like a mission impossible, even in LA. Mouawad fi nally contents himself with an LCD screen on the wall. Djelevic lives in a 1940s two-story atrium house with a swimming pool in the courtyard. The building is called “Sunset Bermuda,” and the sign above the entrance is vintage in a typography char- acteristic of the time. I get a vision of a Raymond Chandler crime story as I ring the bell. Her small two-room apartment reflects her single status, but the bed is big enough for a cou- ple. A few things catch my attention. The O’Keefe & Merritt gas stove is a cool retro piece that con- trasts with the poor contents of the fridge (apart from two bottles of champagne). “My brother is a passionate hobby chef, and he immediately fell in love with the stove,” Djelevic says. Two framed certifi cates on the wall serve as a symbol of relief for Djelevic’s parents – a mas- ter of arts from Antioch University in Ohio and a bachelor of arts in psychology from California State University Northridge. “Today, when I look at them, I feel I could have done without them. But they were important to Mom and Dad. They Le
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MA APRIL 2007 TANJA DJELEVIC BORN February 7, 1971, in Jönköping, Sweden LIVES Los Angeles, USA FAMILY Mother Slobodanka, siblings Milan and Sonja PROFESSION Personal trainer. Recently signed a contract with Gaiam, an Internet- based lifestyle company. EDUCATION Master’s degree in psychology, specializing in stress management therapy and behavioral life coaching. She also has fi tness certifi cations from Reebok, AFAA, ACE and Powerhouse Pilates. READS Books like Self-Esteem, Happy Yoga and A New Earth SWEETENING AGENT Nectar from agave plant WRITES Her book Livskra
Scanorama Sida 47 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 47 She had
the tattoo made on the anniversary of her handsome father’s death.“He’s still my soft spot.” needed something that proved that I had succeed- ed, although I had left them, and Sweden.” But the education, she confesses, once had a strong value for herself as well. “Coming from an immigrant working-class family, it was important in terms of self esteem. To be accepted by myself – and the world around me – in order to move between classes.” Then there’s the tattoo, just above her right heel, which I haven’t noticed until now. Two artful Ds. “My Achilles’ heel,” she calls it. It stands for Djoka Djelevic, the man in the framed black-and-white photo on the sideboard. She had the tattoo made on the anniversary of her handsome father’s death. “He is still my soft spot.” AT CRUNCH ON SANTA MONICA BOULEVARD, yet another hip gym with the classic Hollywood Hills as back- drop, Djelevic meets her friend Igor Spanic, a for- mer Croatian kickboxing champion, for an hour of hard work on the punching bags. Crunch has taken up the strip-club trend, launched in The Sopranos. On Tuesdays and Thursdays, they run pole-dancing classes, and on Wednesdays, there is cardio striptease. Djelevic laughs about the classes but admits that those strippers do some really impressive pole tricks on stage, demanding quite a physique. The next day, Djelevic picks me up in her white VW Jetta. We’re heading for Compton and Watts, Afro-American and Hispanic communities infa- mous for the 1992 riots and light-years away from her West Hollywood life and well-to-do clients. She has joined forces with the P.S. I Love You Foundation, a nonprofi t organization dedicated to assisting at-risk southern California children and their families through an array of education and community outreach programs. The goal is to use its funds and personal energy to create positive and personal differences in the lives of children so they, in turn, can achieve productive, happy and healthy lifestyles and attitudes. Djelevic’s contribution is teaching school chil- dren a yoga program, including a 33-word glossary: compassion, empathy, self-knowledge, serenity and truce are probably seldom uttered in Watts and Compton. Djelevic has a slight problem fi nding the right way. She hasn’t yet begun her work for the ghetto kids and never before visited the school, St Law- rence of Brindisi on Compton Avenue. It’s easy to joke about the need for a full tank to avoid the risks connected with running out of gas in these surroundings. Djelevic says that what we really are afraid of is our own prejudices, and I agree. But still, being an obviously prosperous white male in a shiny new adidas outfi t, I’m not too comfortable – but looking pretty fl y for a white guy. “Look,” Djelevic says, pointing at a McDonald’s sign, “all they have are fast-food joints. And,” – she nods at another sign – “liquor stores. No fl ashy malls here.” Most houses are in bad condition and remind Djelevic of her mother’s native country. “This is how it looks like in the slum areas of Serbia.” She expresses a genuine concern for the under- aged inhabitants, but she doesn’t give way to sen- timentality. She deals with hard-core facts. “There are so many underprivileged kids without any pos- sibility to change their lives, no chance to break away from their socio-economic disadvantage. They have nowhere to go, nobody cares, and the schools are so poor they can’t even afford notepads and pens.” These 10–14-year-old kids, Djelevic explains, are in a critical period in life when they go through an identifi cation process. “When I studied psycholo- gy, my intention was to work with grown-ups. But I later realized that it’s the kids who need my efforts.” We fi nally fi nd the school. Djelevic draws my attention to the little pupils in the school yard. “Look at them …” The sign above the entrance reads “Welcome to our school where no child is left alone.” I’m moved by the message but can’t help question its accuracy. If that were true, Djelevic wouldn’t be needed here. WE LEAVE THE NEIGHBORHOOD without any mishaps. I even challenged my cowardliness and went in to a gas station to pay for the petrol we yet needed, expecting to be caught in an armed robbery any minute as I waited. On the other hand, I fantasized about a diner holdup at rich ’n’ famous Hollywood Boulevard as well. I probably watch too many Quentin Taran- tino movies and read too many James Ellroy and Michael Connelly novels. You would never believe that the two worlds belonged to the same city. But then you see the palm trees, the only thing Compton and Watts have in common with Beverly Hills, and you real- ize you’re actually still in Los Angeles. Thankful for not being born into the world of the less fortunate, I say goodbye to La-La Land, privileged and a bit wiser. Now I’m just longing for my home gym, very much inspired by Tanja the Trainer and her clients. If Evan Katz can make it, I sure will. THOMAS SJÖBERG is a Scanorama editor. He had aches from excessive Djelevic exercise for weeks. But it felt good – and he wants more. thomas.sjoberg@sasmedia.se The whole enchilada “She is Swedish and Yugo energy in a bo
Scanorama Sida 48 48 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 MALDINI
IN MODERN CLASSIC COLLECTION. ONLY IN SELECTED STORES. SCA0704_HM_page_1_of_2.ps 1SCA0704HMpage1of2.ps 107-03-13 09.49.4507-03-13 09.49.45SCANOR0704s048.ps 48SCANOR0704s048.ps 4807-03-15 16.29.0007-03-15 16.29.00
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Scanorama Discoveries - Beyond The Limit 50 SCANOR
AMA APRIL 20072 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 BEYOND THE LIMIT Ice-cold swims, grueling climbs and sleep deprivation. Its all part of the life of an adventure racer. Scanorama editor Henrik Harr puts himself to the test in Hemavan. DISCOVERIES PHOTOGRAPHS BY PATRICK TRÄGÅRDH AND PEDER SUNDSTRÖM Hemavan_OK.indd 2HemavanOK.indd 207-03-13 09.48.1907-03-13 09.48.19SCANOR0704s050.ps 50SCANOR0704s050.ps 5007-03-15 16.29.3007-03-15 16.29.30
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APRIL 2007 3 At le
Scanorama Sida 52 52 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 DISCOVER
IES Alpine trekking during the second 24-hour period at Okstindan. Climbing with jumars up a waterfall at Sprutforsen during the last stretch before the end of the race. Team Lundhags treks down Seven Sisters on Norway’s coast. Hemavan_OK.indd 4HemavanOK.indd 407-03-13 09.48.3807-03-13 09.48.38SCANOR0704s052.ps 52SCANOR0704s052.ps 5207-03-15 16.29.4207-03-15 16.29.42
Scanorama Sida 53 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 53 s I make
my way out along the cliff’s edge, I try not to let my brain in on what’s about to happen. When the drop is three steps away, I turn and ask “Here?” It’s totally rhe- torical, because by the time the answer comes, I have already stepped off the ledge. The free fall quickly accelerates my body toward the dark patch I have aimed for. It’s about a six- meter drop, and it takes some time before my san- daled feet hit the freezing water – too late for my brain to object. I am in Murtsebäcken outside Hemavan in northern Sweden, and the reason I have just jumped off a cliff is that, well ... everybody else did. I am following the competitors in the Adventure Racing World Championships, and my mission is to, as far as possible, do whatever they do. There’s something impressively disturbing about people who punish themselves like this, and I want to dip my toe in their particular pool of madness. BECAUSE I RECOGNIZE ROBYN BENINCASA from TV, I decide to follow the team she captains – Merrell/ Wigwam. They’re not the fastest team, she tells me, but they get along great and have tons of col- lective experience. At the starting line, Benincasa is relaxed, laugh- ing and goofi ng off with her three team members. Then the gun goes off and all 32 teams rush madly through a thicket and onto a 200-meter-long fi eld, falling and clawing their way to the inline skates on the other side. Considering that most teams will be days apart at the fi nish, it seems strange for them to be jock- eying for position this early in the race. But then these are exceedingly competitive people. They haven’t simply trained for years for this – they have adjusted their lives to fi t the massive doses of training necessary to compete at this level. When all that training went into these people, though, I wonder if a little common sense didn’t trickle out. Gary Larson had a cartoon once of an “inconvenience store” where all the goods were out of reach on a shelf just under the ceiling. That’s how adventure racing feels. If there’s a rel- atively convenient way of getting to the bottom of a gorge – hiking along the edge – adventure racers are often obliged to follow the most inconvenient one – fl ushing down the rocky river in a wet suit and helmet. AFTER CROSSING THE STARTING FIELD and skating two kilometers uphill, I follow part of the canyoneer- ing section, including that jump from the ledge. Back at the transition area, I switch maps and hop on my rented mountain bike. Twenty-fi ve kilome- ters later, I am stripping down to swimming trunks and wading into Lake Gäuta. The maps for the following trekking section have – inconveniently enough – been tied to buoy lines at the bottom of the freezing lake, and I have to dive down and look for them. Map located, I put my grimy cycling clothes back on and bike back to Hemavan. When I have only a few kilometers left, it begins to rain. Soaked and shivering, I start thinking I deserve to spend the night in my hotel room instead of on the moun- tain like I had planned. About 20 steps from the hotel entrance, I bump into media director Stefan Nordström. Unfortunately, I tell him about my plan. “What do you mean?” he says. “If you’re seri- ous about doing this adventure racing thing, you shouldn’t even go into the hotel to use the bath- room.” My heart sinks. “You can pee right here,” he says and points to a spot between two cars in the parking lot. I don’t think he really means it, but he’s right. This is a mental game, and I can’t chicken out at the fi rst sign of discomfort. So I pack my camping gear and hike up Kungsleden as far as I can reach before it gets dark. Most teams racing toward me through the moun- tains north of Syterskalet won’t stop at all this fi rst night, but I’m tired, hungry, thirsty and devoid of group pressure to make me do something as stupid as hike in the dark. THE NEXT MORNING brings 77 kilometers of road bik- ing, taking teams into Norway and Hattfjelldal, the site of a 230-meter Tyrolean traverse across a ravine. Racers buy coffee and sandwiches, and waiting teams sleep in a teepee around a fl am- ing fi re. I don’t begrudge them a few minutes of shut-eye, but the sandwiches have me wondering about the whole living-on-nature’s-terms rule. If the race rules allow for buying food here, what’s to stop a team from fi lling up at the local 7-Eleven? “Nothing,” says Jeff Akens, a veteran adven- ture racer and Benincasa’s fi ancé. “The trick is to survive in whatever environment you’re in, and if there’s a restaurant in that environment ...” Seems my options were much greater than what I realized. I have nobody to tie into a rope team with for the treacherous nighttime trek across Okstindan Gla- cier, so instead I drive around the massive moun- tain range, stock up on candy at a department store (what can I say? It was in my environment), and drive as far as I can up the backside of Gråfjel- let to Gear Zone 3. Continuing on foot, I reach the lake of Mørkbekktjørna at 10.15 pm and pitch my tent on its shores. Fog prevents me from seeing across the small lake, but there’s no missing the roar of glacier A MANDATORY FULL-TIME PERSONAL EQUIPMENT • Backpack • Sleeping bag • Hat • Full-fi nger gloves • Fleece top • Waterproof jacket • Waterproof pants • Headlamp MANDATORY FULL-TIME TEAM EQUIPMENT • Altimeter • Two compasses • GPS tracking device • Radio • Whistle • Waterproof map holder • Foldable knife • 20 waterproof matches • Waterproof red pen • Four-person tent • First-aid kit • Strobe light Inline skating: Team Spyder Kayaking: Björn Rydvall Cycling: Robyn Benincasa Swimming for a map There’s something disturbing about people who punish themselves like this. Hemavan_OK.indd 5HemavanOK.indd 507-03-13 09.48.5507-03-13 09.48.55paginering_april_2007.indd 53paginering_april_2007.indd 5307-03-16 14.47.0307-03-16 14.47.03
Scanorama Sida 54 54 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 streams
cascading into it. The waters are frigid and pure, the kind of water people in Manhattan pay 11 dollars a bottle for. Surplus water spills out into a stream, Mørkbekken, on the northern side, where a bridge that once spanned its head is now a couple of twisted metal beams. I fi re up my stove and make a late supper in the drizzle, and then, as I’m brushing my teeth (with a sawed-off toothbrush like the pros), the fog sud- denly lifts, revealing the far side of the lake like a hazy Lord of the Rings fantasyscape. The black, barren cliffs are nearly vertical, and half a dozen clear-white streams of violent glacier water weave in and out of each other like so many strands of Gandalf’s beard before crashing into the lake. It’s an absolutely stunning sight. BY MIDMORNING THE NEXT DAY, the leading teams make their way along Mørkbekken and then bike down the valley to an orienteering section at Kor- gen campground. A photographer and I decide to try it to see what the racers are facing. We are warned that the fi rst third of the course is demor- alizing, so we’re suitably giddy at fi nding the fi rst checkpoint (after about an hour) when the Mer- rell/Wigwam team shows up. Benincasa and her boys look unruffl ed, considering what they’ve been through. The waters are frigid and pure, the kind of water people in Manhattan pay 11 dollars a bottle for. DISCOVERIES CANYONEERING Walking, wading, sliding, swimming, fl ushing and jumping down a stream 5 km 1 hour, 30 minutes 3.4 km/h Discipline Distance Time spent Average speed CAVING Squeezing through caves fi lled with ice- cold glacier water 1 km 30 minutes 2 km/h MOUNTAIN BIKING Nine sections on hard- top roads, dirt roads and mountain trails 407 km 27 hours, 30 minutes 4.8 km/h ORIENTEERING Thirteen checkpoints in uncleared forest 15 km 4 hours 3.75 km/h RIVER KAYAKING Bouncing in infl a- table boats down Class II rapids 21 km 2 hours 10.5 km/h ROPE WORKS Rappelling and climbing through caves and water- falls 3 km 1 hour, 30 minutes 2 km/h SCANOR0704s054.ps 54SCANOR0704s054.ps 5407-03-15 16.29.4807-03-15 16.29.48
Scanorama Sida 55 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 55 INLINE S
KATING Three sections on hard ground, mostly uphill, poles allowed. Teams can use kickbikes instead 72 km 6 hours, 10 minutes 11.7 km/h “Hey, what happened to tagging along with us?” she asks me. “Uh, I’m having trouble keeping up,” I answer. “Yeah, but now we’re moving like pond scum.” Not the most fl oral of metaphors, but I under- stand what she means. They need to pick up speed. Meanwhile, Team Finland has switched into over- drive, blasting through the 13 checkpoints in under three hours and taking the lead. While they and the rest of the teams bike and hike through their third night, I drive out to the magnifi cent Helgeland coastline, DJ Vibeke keep- ing me company with Norwegian rap on the radio, and pitch my tent for the night. I spend the better part of the next morning climbing up to checkpoint 22, located next to a small lake below the summit of Kvasstinden, the sixth peak in the spectacular Seven Sisters mountain chain that the teams are hiking. It’s a rare glorious day on the Seven Sisters, and we can see for miles around in all directions – mountains, islands, farmland, ocean and lakes are all now bath- ing in the sunlight. After about half an hour, Nike PowerBlast arrives in second place looking unreasonably fi t. “Get any sleep?” I ask no one in particular. “A little.” “How much is a little?” “Let me see ... the fi rst time it was six minutes, then 10 minutes, then three hours.” “Does 10 minutes really help?” “Oh, yeah!” team captain Ian Adamson cuts in. I have a hard time believing this, but sleep depri- vation is one aspect of adventure racing that I have yet to test. And Adamson and his teammates really do look rested. Above: On his way to Svartisen pass, photographer Peder Sundström takes a break to look at the panoramic view. MOUNTAINEERING Two sections of trek- king and climbing on rocks and glacier ice 85 km 24 hours 3.5 km/h TREKKING Five sections on trails and off -road 95 km 21 hours 4.5 km/h OCEAN KAYAKING Two racers in each boat, through open seas, with strobe light a
Scanorama Sida 56 56 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 Anybody
who suspects they might be clumsy, reckless or stupid should not try any of this. Ever. MAKING TRACKS NEXT, A GRUELING 45-KILOMETER INLINE SECTION takes racers to Fagervika, where they switch to sea kay- aks for an insane 90 kilometers of paddling. Me, I manage a little less than one kilometer of skating, and they won’t let me out on the waves by myself. Instead I take the inland route to Melfjorden where the paddlers will come ashore. Onboard the car ferry from Levang to Nesna, I wash my hair with hand soap in the bathroom. It has been four days since I had a shower. A hand- ful of Norwegians are inside watching TV while I stand outside and marvel at the amazing panora- ma in front of me. After crossing Ranfjorden, we skirt the shoreline of Hugla Island, with the sun setting behind the majestic peaks of Tomma. On the other side of the island is checkpoint 23, where the Flying Finns have already been and left. The sliver of a moon just barely clears the top of Hand- nesøya to our right. Feeling guilty that I haven’t been participating as much as I had planned, I decide to try my hand at sleep deprivation. So instead of pitching camp, I roll into Mo i Rana’s irresistably named suburb of Bimbo for two hours of shut-eye in the car. I am properly disoriented when the buzzer sounds at 2 am, but I manage to drive the remaining two hours to Melfjorden without killing anyone. After watching Team Finland come in fi rst from the kayak leg, I abandon the race in order to catch my fl ight back to civilization. I drive to the airport in a daze, stopping occasionally to test Ian Adam- son’s 10-minute sleep therapy. It doesn’t work. How adventure racers can do what they do with so little sleep is beyond me. During a fi ve-day race like this, top teams sleep as little as 10–12 hours. BY SHEER COINCIDENCE, the trip odometer of my car clicks over to 800 kilometers just as I crawl into Hemavan. This means I have driven the exact same distance that the racers have covered on foot, bike and kayak. After I leave, Ian Adamson and his PowerBlast team pick up the pace, overtaking the Finns and rolling into Hemavan as World Champions after five days and two hours of racing. As for Benincasa and the Kiwi boys, they fl y through the sea kayak section like we knew they would, but drop out during the following hike. Benincasa gets trench foot and ends her 12-year streak of never quitting a race. So it goes. “I literally sat down on that second technical glacier and couldn’t walk another step,” she tells me after the race. “The layers of skin on my feet were so engorged with water that they started sep- arating, and the pain was like tearing fl esh with every step.” Why subject yourself to this kind of pain? After four days of tracking these adventure racers, I can make out three recurring components of the sport: fatigue, monotony and danger. Not an entirely healthy mix. And if things go really wrong, this stuff can kill you. Australian Nigel Aylott died when he was struck in the head by a falling 150-kilo rock during the Primal Quest in 2004. Anybody who suspects they might be clumsy, reckless, stu- pid or generally lacking in judgement should not try any of this. Ever. Having said that, adventure racing is still fun, life-affi rming, maddening and a whole range of other contradictory things. My advice is: Try it, but do one-tenth of the distances in twice the time. At least. And sleep. For the love of Christ, sleep. HENRIK HARR is a Scanorama editor. He used to dream of competing in long-distance adventure races. Then he wrote this article. henrik.harr@yahoo.com DISCOVERIES FINAL RESULTS ARWC 2006 Nike PowerBlast 5 days, 2 hours, 22 minutes Team Finland +3 hours, 51 minutes Lundhags +5 hours, 8 minutes WORLD CHAMPIONS 2006: Team Nike PowerBlast: Ian Adamson (captain), Monique Merrill, Richard Ussher and Dave Wiens TOTAL LENGTH 797 kilometers AVERAGE SPEED 6.5 km/h. That’s walking speed, sure, but walk for fi ve days straight and see how easy it is. Thanks to Naturkompaniet in Stockholm (www.naturkompaniet.se) for providing equipment. Above: Our intrepid adventure editor Henrik Harr tries his hand at trekking Seven Sisters. Winning team Nike PowerBlast kayaks across Mel
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Scanorama Eat & Drink 60 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 My n
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AMA MARCH 2007SCANORAMA FEBRUARY 2007 57DECEMBER 2006/JANUARY 2007 SCANORAMA 75NOVEMBER 2006 SCANORAMA 37OCTOBER 2006 SCANORAMA 53 How did the cocktail shaker get its shape? Ask ten different people, chances are you’ll get ten different answers. We like to think it’s because, years ago, when the first ever martini was being made, the bartender reached for a bottle of the world’s best gin. Coincidence? EVERWONDEREDHOW GINSHOULDTASTE TANQUERAY awarded double gold at San Francisco World Spirit Competition 2006 The TANQUERAY word, associated logos and bottle get-up design are trade marks www.tanqueray.com / www.tanqueray.dk SCA0610_Diaego_Tanqueray_page_1_1 1SCA0610DiaegoTanqueraypage11106-09-11 11.50.4606-09-11115046SCANOR0610s053.ps 53SCANOR0610s053.ps 5306-09-14 14.42.5406-09-14 14.42.54SCA_nov 37SCAnov3706-10-16 15.57.1806-10-16155718SCANOR0612s075.ps 75SCANOR0612s075.ps 7506-11-15 12.09.5906-11-15 12.09.59Paginering0701 57Paginering0701 5707-01-16 15.14.4707-01-16 15.14.47SCANOR0703s069.ps 69SCANOR0703s069.ps 6907-02-13 17.04.5107-02-13 17.04.51SCANOR0704s061.ps 61SCANOR0704s061.ps 6107-03-15 16.33.0307-03-15 16.33.03
Scanorama Sida 62 62 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 Food sch
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Scanorama Sida 63 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 63OCTOBER 2
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Scanorama Legends - Zarah Leander 68 SCANORAMA APR
IL 20072 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 ZARAH LEANDERSCANDINAVIAN LEGENDS In 1942, outside a movie theater in Berlin, Leander takes part in a fund-raising drive together with Nazi o? cers. Right page: Leander in Axel an der Himmelstür in 1936. Legends_Leander_OK.indd 2LegendsLeanderOK.indd 207-03-13 10.45.0607-03-13 10.45.06SCANOR0704s068.ps 68SCANOR0704s068.ps 6807-03-15 16.33.2207-03-15 16.33.22
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APRIL 2007 3 She was the poster girl for Germany during World War II and the Diva incarnated. But in her private life, ZARAH LEANDER was not happy with the role she was forced to play. She was even accused of being the war’s greatest master spy. Author Jutta Jacobi tells the story of a woman who succeeded in personifying desire, both in the eyes of the Nazis and their victims. ZARAH’SDOUBLE PLAY Legends_Leander_OK.indd 3LegendsLeanderOK.indd 307-03-15 10.54.1807-03-15 10.54.18SCANOR0704s069.ps 69SCANOR0704s069.ps 6907-03-15 16.33.2507-03-15 16.33.25
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MA APRIL 2007 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 he was even taller than he had imagined. But the face framed by the shock of red hair was beautiful. And what a décolletage! Hans Weidemann scrutinized the woman on stage with a professional eye. Then she began to sing. But her voice was not that of a woman. It was dark as chocolate, powerful as a church organ, and she sang on the consonants in a way he had never heard before: “I-cccch bin ein Schttarrrr, ein grosser Star mit seinen Launennnn.” It was all the audience could do to remain in their seats. By the time she was acknowledging their applause with that ready, albeit slightly wry smile of hers, Wei- demann had made up his mind. “We have to have her!” What was her name, again? Zarah Leander. Weidemann’s quest for new talent for the Third Reich’s burgeoning fi lm industry had brought him to Vienna. As vice president of the state fi lm agency, the Reichsfi lmkammer, his job was to adapt German fi lm production to the Nazi agitation of propaganda minister, Joseph Goebbels. Rumors of a new star in Vienna had spread to Berlin during the autumn of 1936. The premiere of Axel an der Himmelstür (Axel at the Gates of Heaven), an operetta by Ralph Benatzky – the Andrew Lloyd Webber of his day – was a popular topic on the culture pages, and Leander was singing the role of the Hol- lywood diva, Gloria Mills. But if the Germans were interested in enticing her away from Vienna, they would need to dig deep in their pockets. eander knew that she had the upper hand in the nego- tiations. There was a distinct shortage of leading ladies in Nazi Germany. Many of the fi lm industry stalwarts – actors, directors, producers and composers – who had helped transform the fi lm studios at Babelsberg on the out- skirts of Berlin into a European dream factory were Jews forced abroad by Nazi persecution mania. Leander was 29 years old when she signed her contract with the German fi lm company, Ufa. For her appearances in three fi lms, she would be paid the sum of 200,000 reichsmarks: 53 percent of this would be deposited directly into her account in Sweden. She would be the best-paid fi lm star in all of Germany. Not that this did much to please the propaganda minister him- self. It wasn’t some unknown Swede that he had set his sights on, but the glamorous Marlene Dietrich. She, however, had no inten- tion of returning to Nazi Germany – despite the fantasy sums she had been offered to do so. So, “die Leander” it was. In Goebbels’ eyes, she was overrated. But worse still, he had of course been informed of her stage appearances in Sweden. It was no secret that Leander had only recently performed the impresario Karl Gerhard’s comic revue number In the Shadow of a Boot, a sting- ing rebuke of Nazism and its racial politics. “It would appear that Weidemann’s trophy is hostile to the German nation,” Goebbels wrote in his diary on January 15, 1937, shortly before Leander came to Berlin. Indeed, on the occasion of their fi rst meeting Goebbels asked her, “Zarah … isn’t that a Jewish name?” “And what about Joseph?” she replied. The Swedish press was exultant when Leander was signed up by the Germans. At last, she could enjoy the international acclaim she deserved. She was widely tipped to become a second Greta Garbo. “Want to gaze at a star? Then gaze at me,” she sang in the song that marked her breakthrough. It was 1929 and she was the newest addition to Swedish cabaret artist Ernst Rolf’s stable of talent. Yet what was to become and remain Leander’s theme song was initially conceived as a Greta Garbo parody. When she sang “I don’t want to belong to one man at a time. No! All that there are I shall have,” audiences around Sweden went wild. The young singer’s life, however, bore little resemblance to the role she was playing. The mother of two small children, she was married to Nils Leander, an actor who was unable to support his family. Instead they lived with her parents-in-law in a vicar- age in the small provincial Swedish town of Finspång. ut her own career soon took off. She played The Merry Widow with Gösta Ekman, one of the legends of the Swedish theater. She caught the attention of the mas- ter director Max Reinhardt. She was recruited by Karl Gerhard (“the Swedish Aristophanes” to his contemporaries) to be the prima donna of his revues. She was feted in Stockholm, Oslo, Helsinki and Copenhagen, and starred in three Swedish fi lms. It was all well-paid work – and well-paid work was just what Leander wanted. She came from a well-to-do family that had fallen on hard times, and she was determined to restore the family’s fortunes. At the same time, she yearned for new successes and an ever greater audience. When she received an offer from Vienna, she accepted without giving so much as a second thought to the fi nancial aspects. Afterward, she felt that she had been cheat- ed. She was still bitter about it when she wrote her memoirs 35 years later. Yet surely she must have realized that she was working with emigrants? The Theater an der Wien had been taken over by S L LEGENDS It was 1929 and Zarah Leander was the newest addition to Swedish cabaret artist Ernst Rolf’s stable of talent. B Legends_Leander_OK.indd 4LegendsLeanderOK.indd 407-03-13 10.45.3407-03-13 10.45.34SCANOR0704s070.ps 70SCANOR0704s070.ps 7007-03-15 16.33.2907-03-15 16.33.29
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APRIL 2007 5 Jewish and political refugees from Hitler’s Germany. They were hardly awash with money. They were simply trying to survive. By the time Leander arrived in Berlin in February 1937, her success was already assured. Carl Opitz, Ufa’s PR manager, had launched a massive campaign to make sure that the Leander fi lm Première, which had been made in Vienna, was screened in every available movie theater nationwide. Journalists had already been instructed to write feature articles before even a single meter of fi lm had been produced. Leander herself was ner- vous. Not only were the expectations about her enormous, but she felt compelled to play the role of megastar in her private life as well. She, who by nature was outgoing and sociable, who loved to laugh and joke with other people, was forced to appear aloof and haughty. Together with her children and her second hus- band, Vidar Forsell, she lived in a magnifi cent detached home in Grunewald and was driven to work by her personal chauf- feur, Hermann, who arrived at seven o’clock every morning in a Horch, the most luxurious car the world had ever seen. “Were you ever unhappy?” Leander was asked many years lat- er. “Yes,” she replied. “When I was forced to lie. When I had to act the role of a diva. When I couldn’t be myself.” orking days at Babelsberg were long. Leander’s fi rst fi lm there, Zu neuen Ufern (Life Begins Anew), was directed by Detlev Sierck. The very same year he and his Jewish wife would immi- grate to Hollywood, where, as Douglas Sirk, he made a name for himself directing melodramas much like Zu neuen Ufern. Lean- der played the singer Gloria Vane, who charms the whole of Lon- don with her risqué songs but who eventually sacrifi ces herself for the sake of her unfaithful lover. It was a huge success. German audiences cried tears by the bucketful and fell head over heels in love with their Zarah. But why? You can command journalists to write panegyrics, but you can’t command love and admira- tion. Leander was as much loved by the Nazis as by their victims. The words to her most successful popular song were written by Bruno Balz, imprisoned as a homosexual but released in order to provide lyrics for Leander. And Ralph Benatzky continued to compose songs for her from his exile in New York. Her tragic heroines always combined several roles in one: art- ist, devoted lover, mother, femme fatale. But fi rst and foremost, Leander was the very personifi cation of desire. She was far from the female icon that the Nazis had hoped for – too heavily made up, too emancipated, too fashionable, too erotic. On the other hand, Goebbels knew all too well that there was no money to be made out of burly German fräuleins with long, braided hair. Leander’s job was to attract the audiences to the movie theaters, and that is exactly what she did do – not only in Germany, but throughout the whole of Central Europe. Carl Froelich’s fi lm of Sudermann’s drama Heimat (Home- land) was among the prizewinners at the 1938 Venice Biennial. The British Daily News gave it top ranking, and in Paris the news- papers declared it “Film of the Year.” In Sweden, Per Lindberg PREVIOUS SPREAD: IBL, SCANPIX. THIS PAGE: IBL, GETTY IMAGES, SCANPIX W Top le
Scanorama Sida 72 72 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 wrote of
Leander in Dagens Nyheter, “At last, she reveals the full breadth of her talent. ... The audience thanked her for living up to their highest expectations.” In 1940, Swiss audiences voted her their favorite fi lm star, and the New York Times was still praising her charm and talents as late as 1941. he visible proof of her success was Lönö, a large country estate on the shore of Bråviken Bay, south of Stockholm. Leander bought her ocher-colored dream home there in 1939 from the proceeds of her gramo- phone record sales. All 10 of her Ufa fi lms included a number of songs that were subsequently recorded and sold as records – in several languages. She was the fi rst Swedish singer to sell records by the million. She returned to Lönö after completing each of the fi lms. There she could rest and refl ect. Should she cut and run? After the out- break of war, her predicament was even more delicate. She had always been fond of a little tipple, and now she seemed to put on weight with each new fi lm that was released. As a leading lady, she also had to live up to certain expectations. She sang on several occasions in Wunschkonzert für die Wehrmacht, a radio request program for the German troops. And yet she still believed that it was possible to maintain a distance between her professional life and what was happening all around her. After all, she was no Nazi and she could still count a number of Jews, homosexuals and left-wing thinkers among her circle of friends. But, above all, she was a Swede. She tried to convince herself this wasn’t her war. She never revealed what she knew about the horrors of the concentration camps. She preferred to remain silent on the subject and was deeply distressed when prodded with questions. She writes about Hitler, Goebbels and Göring in her memoirs – but only in the form of anecdotes. And so the star began to fade. In 1942, Leander starred in Die grosse Liebe (The Great Love), the only one of her fi lms that might be considered propaganda with its message to stand fi rm. Passion fi rst blossoms between a Danish singer and a German fi ghter pilot during a night of bombing raids, but their love is never consummated. At the last moment, the pilot is repeatedly called to the front. For the singer, this perpetual coitus interrup- tus is almost unbearable, until in the end she understands that the war accounts for more than her own private feelings. aking fi lms at all in the midst of a war is a remark- able story in itself. When you see Leander pos- ing on stage surrounded by a gigantic bouquet of fl ower girls, you may notice that some of the young maidens have rather masculine features. It was not easy to fi nd many women who were as tall as Leander, so Hitler’s own infa- mous bodyguards, the Leibstandarte Adolf Hitler, were ordered to dress in drag. It adds a wonderfully ironic footnote with var- ious meanings to the homophobic history of the Third Reich: Hitler’s most fearsome warriors as transvestites. The fi lm was a box offi ce success, but Leander was now no lon- ger regarded as politically reliable. There were already rumors of espionage, and Goebbels wanted to force her to choose sides: she must take German citizenship. For Leander, however, that was a step too far. Her last Ufa fi lm was called Damals (At That Time), although in Sweden it was titled A Woman Lives Danger- ously, which was appropriate given the situation in which she now found herself. She was lucky to survive when the rented villa in which she was living in Berlin was bombed, and two days later – after the fi lm had premiered on March 3, 1943 – she fl ew home to Sweden for good. But her future still hung in the balance. No one wanted to see Leander on the stage in Sweden. And bad turned to worse when her old ally, Karl Gerhard, made valiant attempts to save her career – he who had a reputation as a “parlor communist.” Swedish counterintelligence took a keen interest in her. Jour- nalists, who until recently had lionized her, now began to mount a campaign against her. There were rumors galore. Had she not sung for the German troops? Had she not been Hitler’s mis- tress? Was her coastal stately home a secret base for German U-boats? Hurt and insulted, Leander retreated into her shell M LEFT PAGE: SCANPIX. RIGHT PAGE: IBL, GETTY IMAGES LEGENDS There were rumors of espionage, and Goebbels wanted to force her to choose sides: she must take German citizenship. T Leander at her desk in 1975, three years a
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APRIL 2007 7 and showed no understanding at all. It was all just a pack of lies. She muttered something about having been politically naive but refused to accept that she had done anything wrong. All she had done was to act in a few love stories. There followed six years of silence from Lönö. Her second marriage collapsed. When she traveled to Copenhagen in the spring of 1947, she was turned away by all the major hotels, and on her way to France, she was met by a long article in France-Dimanche that pointed her out as “the war’s greatest master spy.” t was only her invincible will that enabled her to make a comeback. Ever since she had been a child, all she wanted was to stand on the stage. For Leander, the affection and admiration of the public were the very elixir of life. But the audiences had missed her, too. That soon became apparent to her at every one of her comeback concerts between 1947 and 1949. She also had loyal allies who thought it was a waste of talent for an artist like Leander to spend her days as the lady of the manor. In the autumn of 1947, she met Ralph Bena- tzky in Switzerland, shortly after he had returned to Europe now that the war was over. “So, where are you singing now?” he asked her. “I’m not,” she replied. “Then it’s time we made a radio program!” he said. A mere four months later, she started a concert tour in Swit- zerland. Even back in Sweden, people noticed how warm a wel- come she had been given by the same Zürich newspapers that had been so outspoken in their criticism of Nazi Germany. At her fi rst postwar appearance in Germany, in French-occupied Saarbrücken, the audience reacted with the same enthusiasm as ever. A police cordon had to be formed to protect the star from her many eager fans. And then it was time for a comeback in Sweden: Malmö City Theatre on August 5, 1949. Leander was shaking like a leaf before she stepped on to the stage to sing Benatzky’s song: Voilà, here am I, famous and still feted. Yes, sir! Though many thought my career was outdated. No, sir! I’ve washed my long locks in Burgundy wine And again stand before you – to make you all mine. Yes, sir! A thunderous storm of applause signaled Sweden’s forgive- ness of her daughter’s fall from grace as Leander took her place on a fl ower-garlanded throne under the legend “At last!” or the most part, Leander carved out her second career on the stage, performing before live audiences across the globe. She toured South America, Canada, Japan and the USA. During the 1950s, she also appeared in a number of fi lms, but her heyday as a fi lm star had passed. Even so, operettas and musicals were still being written for her, pro- viding her unfailingly with the platform to play herself – the great prima donna and the sinner with a heart of gold. Her most loyal fans were always in Germany and Austria, and the most devoted of all were homosexual men. They adored her ever deeper voice, her humor and her diva-esque stage pres- ence. They made sure that Leander was not forgotten. Even today, more than 25 years after her death, she lives on as a cult fi gure and a gay icon. JUTTA JACOBI is a German journalist and author who lives in Stockholm. When she bought a car in Sweden, the le
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PRIL 20072 SCANORAMA FEBRUARY 2007CHRIS T SHORE LINES No cars, no dogs, just hedgehogsT Shorelines_christianso_OK 2ShorelineschristiansoOK 207-03-09 09.25.4307-03-09 09.25.43SCANOR0704s076.ps 76SCANOR0704s076.ps 7607-03-15 16.33.4207-03-15 16.33.42
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APRIL 2007 3 IANSØT Travel as far east as you can in Denmark and you will come to Christiansø – the main island of Ertholmene (Pea Islands). Originally a 17th-century fortifi cation, it now off ers just the right combination of solitude and entertainment. Not bigger than a brief walk from shore to shore, the island is an unrivalled experience in the Baltic Sea. PHOTOGRAPHS BY MAGNUS RIETZ AND LASSE EKLÖF T SCA0704_Shorelines_christianso_O3 3SCA0704ShorelineschristiansoO3 307-03-15 11.05.2507-03-15 11.05.25SCANOR0704s077.ps 77SCANOR0704s077.ps 7707-03-15 16.33.4707-03-15 16.33.47
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havsveien off ers breathtaking views and the small fi shing villages along the way are charming. SHORE LINES During tourist season, the Christiansø harbor is crammed with visiting pleasure boats. Sometimes you can even walk from one side of the harbor to the other – on the boat decks. ALL PHOTOGRAPHS BY LASSE EKLÖF AND MAGNUS RIETZ, WWW.BRILJANS.SE SCANOR0704s078.ps 78SCANOR0704s078.ps 7807-03-15 16.33.5107-03-15 16.33.51
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MA FEBRUARY 2007 In the old days, the group of islands was used as a place of banishment for life-sentence prisoners. Doctor Dampe served 15 years for high treason and lèse- majesté – an off ense against the dignity of the king. SHORE LINES Shorelines_christianso_OK 6ShorelineschristiansoOK 607-03-09 09.27.1807-03-09 09.27.18SCANOR0704s080.ps 80SCANOR0704s080.ps 8007-03-15 16.33.5907-03-15 16.33.59
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APRIL 2007 7 On the northeast corner, Lille Tårn tower overlooks the island. Originally a part of the defense system built in 1684, the tower now- adays serves as a museum displaying the military history, nature and fi shing industry of the area. While you may be tempted to walk on the walls, it’s forbidden due to the loose rocks and the possibility of injury. Shorelines_christianso_OK 7ShorelineschristiansoOK 707-03-09 09.27.2707-03-09 09.27.27SCANOR0704s081.ps 81SCANOR0704s081.ps 8107-03-15 16.35.5707-03-15 16.35.57
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MA FEBRUARY 2007 HOW TO GET THERE From Copenhagen: Take the ferry to Bornholm (six hours) and then the boat from Gud- hjem, Allinge or Svaneke to Christiansø. From Ystad (Sweden): Take the ferry to Bornholm (about two hours) and then the boat to Christiansø. WHERE TO STAY Christiansø Gæstgiveri, Tel: +45 56 46 20 15. www.christiansoekro.dk Søgaard, Østermarie, Born- holm, Tel: +45 56 47 02 50. www.seegaard.dk Strandhotel Abildgård, Allinge, Bornholm, Tel: +45 56 48 09 55. www.hotel-abildgaard.dk Therns Hotel, Gudhjem, Born- holm, Tel: +45 56 48 50 99. www.therns-hotel.dk WHERE TO EAT Christiansø Gæstgiveri, Tel: +45 56 46 20 15. www.christiansoekro.dk Therns Restaurant, Gudhjem, Bornholm, Tel: +45 56 48 50 99. www.therns-hotel.dk CHILLING OUT AT CHRISTIANSØ A typical hy
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view over the village in Christiansø, with Frederiksø in the distance. The fabulous light has a
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Scanorama Files - Poison 86 SCANORAMA APRIL 20072
SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 FILE: POISON Though frightening in its appearance, a tarantula is basically harmless to humans. Its venom will produce some swelling and itching, but the e? ects will quickly disappear. A Poison_file_OK.indd 2PoisonfileOK.indd 207-03-13 10.31.5607-03-13 10.31.56SCANOR0704s086.ps 86SCANOR0704s086.ps 8607-03-15 16.36.2307-03-15 16.36.23
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APRIL 2007 3 WHAT WILL KILL YOU The poison paradox: too much can kill, a li
Scanorama Sida 88 88 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 The answ
er? “Only lion tamers are killed by lions,” said Kent Sugdan, one of her postdoctoral fellows. Poison is a stealth killer, effective in minuscule amounts, often undetectable. It’s the treachery in the arsenic-tainted glass of wine. The fatal attraction: Snow White’s poison apple, the death-defying art of the snake handler, the Japanese roulette practiced by those who eat fugu. Without poison, comic book superheroes and villains in plays and movies would be considerably duller. Spiderman exists by the grace of a radioactive spider bite. The rise of the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles can be traced to their fall (as pet turtles) into a sewer along with a container of toxic materials. Laertes used a poison- dipped sword to kill Hamlet, and Claude Rains’s nasty mother kept sneaking poi- son drops into Ingrid Bergman’s drinks in the Hitchcock thriller Notorious. You might say that a toxicologist stud- ies substances that lead to death. But toxicology is also about life. What can kill, can cure. Said Paracelsus, a 16th-cen- tury German-Swiss physician and alche- mist: “All substances are poisons; there is none which is not a poison. The right dose differentiates a poison and a reme- dy.” Poison is in the dose. Toxicology and pharmacology are intertwined, insepa- rable, a Jekyll-Hyde duality. A serpent coiled around a staff symbolizes Ascle- pius, the Greek god of medicine. Consider arsenic, the poison of kings and king of poisons. Arsenic exploits certain pathways in our cells, binds to proteins and creates molecular havoc. Small amounts taken over a long stretch produce weakness, confusion, paralysis. Take less than a tenth of an ounce at once and the classic signs of acute arsenic poi- soning ensue: nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, low blood pressure, then death. Because it is colorless, tasteless and odorless, arsenic was the poison of choice for the Borgias, the Italian Renaissance family skilled at artful murder, as well as for Hieronyma Spara, a 17th-century Roman entrepreneur who ran a school that taught wealthy young wives how to dispatch their husbands and become wealthy young widows. Arsenic, the pou- dre de succession, powder of succession, helped ambitious princes secure thrones. Fed in small amounts to a wet nurse, the poison could be expressed in breast milk and kill infant rivals. FROM DEATH TO LIFE: In the fi fth century BC, Hippocrates used arsenic to treat ulcers. It became an ingredient in Fowler’s solu- tion, created in 1786 and used for more than 150 years to treat everything from asthma to cancer. In 1910, an arsenic compound became the first effective remedy for syphilis (later to be replaced by penicillin). Arsenic derivatives are still used to treat African sleeping sickness. In 1890, William Osler, founder of modern medical education, pronounced arsenic the best drug for leukemia, and today it remains an effective chemotherapy agent for acute forms of the disease. So is arsenic a poison or a drug? “It’s both,” says Joshua Hamilton, professor of toxicology and pharmacology at Dart- mouth. “It depends: Are you talking to a Borgia or to a physician?” Poisons surround us. It’s not just too much of a bad thing like arsenic that can “All substances are poisons. The right dose diff erentiates between a poison and a remedy.” FILE During a one-man wildlife survey on a deserted Florida barrier island, herpe- tologist Bruce Means fi nds his favorite venomous reptile, the eastern diamond- back ra
Scanorama Sida 89 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 89 PUFFER F
ISH: A DELICACY TO DIE FOR? DON’T HAVE THE SOUP In 1971, a man in Bedford, New York, died of botu- linum poisoning a
Scanorama Sida 90 90 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 The ingr
edients of Gallo’s chemother- apy cocktail included cytoxan, adriamy- cin, vincristine, prednisone and Retux- an – a mixture that is toxic enough to cause side effects ranging from vomit- ing, diarrhea and weight loss, to liver, heart and bladder damage, to even death from overwhelming infection due to a depressed immune system. In addition, as Gallo will cheerfully tell you, “Almost all cancer drugs are carcinogenic in their own right.” On the other hand, he says, “The moment they stuck the needle in my vein, I felt relief. I thought, They got the son of a bitch.” Gallo was lucky. His luxuriant mop of red hair fell out, and he took on the alien look of chemotherapy. But fatigue and the typical drop in blood-cell count aside, he continued working throughout the treatment. FILE When you think about it, not much has changed in 500 years. Spies, assassina- tions, covert contracts, secret payoff s – it’s all part of the everyday business of running a country. In Renaissance Italy, “poison was the solution to delicate political problems,” says Paolo Preto, a professor of modern history at the University of Padua. So it is no surprise that poisoning was as much an art as painting, architecture or sculp- ture. A touch of arsenic, hemlock or hel- lebore added to the wine was discreet, nearly undetectable (autopsies were rare), and considera- bly less messy than using a knife or gun. The Borgias – Alexander VI and his son Cesare – specialized in faith- based poisonings. As pope, Alexander appointed wealthy men as bish ops and cardinals, allowed them to increase their holdings, and then invited them to dinner. The house wine, dry, with overtones of arsenic, neat- ly dispatched the guests, whose wealth, by church law, then reverted to their host. English essayist Max Beerbohm wrote: “The Borgias selected and laid down rare poisons in their cellars with as much thought as they gave to their vintage wines. Though you would o
Scanorama Sida 91 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 91 At bulth
aup, we understand the desires of individualists who are fascinated by the sensuality of high- quality materials and the aesthetics of form. So this is why, with bulthaup, you can create living spaces that stretch beyond the kitchen. Talk to the specialists in the new kitchen architecture from bulthaup. Remember the name to look out for. www.bulthaup.com B & G. Sibyllegatan 23. 11442 Stockholm. Tel. +46 8663 7510. info@bulthaup.se bulthaup helsingborg.Hälsovägen 5. 25221 Helsingborg. Tel. +46 42 130820. lennart.ekstedt@telia.com bulthaup Studio Westh.Inredningshuset Axelsson & Co. Ebbe Lieberathsgatan 6. 41265 Göteborg. Tel. +46 31 7017580. christer@westh.se Casa Studio. Gammel Mønt 14. 1117 Copenhagen. Tel. +45 3332 7041. info@casagroup.com Expo-Nova kjøkkenstudio. Elisenbergveien 11. 0265 Oslo. Tel. +47 23 131330. bulthaup@bulthaup.no bulthaup SCA0704_Geco_Inredningar_page_1_1 1SCA0704GecoInredningarpage11 107-03-13 09.00.4407-03-13 09.00.44SCANOR0704s091.ps 91SCANOR0704s091.ps 9107-03-15 16.36.3607-03-15 16.36.36
Scanorama Sida 92 92 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 “I did j
ust fine,” he says, “but in the room right next to me is the same per- son, the same age, the same physique, and he’s getting the stuffi ng kicked out of him. Why? My drug-metabolizing enzymes must be slightly different from his.” It’s these pieces of toxicology – the matter of difference, the question of how much or how little, the wavering line between killing and curing – that makes Gallo love his job as a scientist so much. They are the heart of toxicol- ogy and thus of poison. “Toxicology gives you the chance to understand biology,” he says. Toxicology also saved his life. Six months and thousands of milligrams of toxic drugs later, Gallo’s doctor gave him the all-clear. The lymphoma is currently in remission. Thus our tale of two toxicologists ends tragically for one and happily for the oth- er. Karen Wetterhahn lost her life to poi- son. Michael Gallo owes his life to it. “I dodged a lethal bullet, thanks to a series of well-placed bullets,” Gallo says. “I could have been a dead man. Thank God for toxicity.” CATHY NEWMAN has traveled the world for 25 years as a senior writer for National Geographic, covering such diverse subjects as fashion and fl y fi shing. Chuck Kristensen has 70,000 mouths to feed and didn’t get to bed until 6 am, so he is entitled to doze off in the middle of an interview. Kristensen’s dependents are spiders: 20,000 black widow babies, thousands of brown recluses and tarantulas, and a few scorpion species besides. The horde constitutes the holdings of Kristensen’s company, SpiderPharm. It takes 16 hours to get the spider cafeteria in order each day. No sooner is one meal fi nished then it’s time for the next. The round-the-clock menu includes four sizes of housefl ies and fruit fl ies, wax worms, and, for the tarantulas, an occasional mouse. Kristensen raises spiders for their venom, which he extracts into tiny vials. It is powerful stuff . A black widow bite can cause severe pain and muscle spasms in a recipient. Brown recluse venom degrades tissue and produces a gangrene-like wound. Funnel spider venom leads to trem- bling, increased blood pressure and vomiting. Other spider venoms punch holes in cell membranes, leading to cell death. Kristensen sends his vials of spider venom to scientists around the world because poison, the death dealer, teaches about life as well. Roderick MacKinnon, winner of the 2003 Nobel Prize in chemistry, used tarantula and scorpion venom to help decipher the structure and function of potassium ion channels in cells. Ion channels are conduits, like gates, that control the transmission of elec- trical impulses within cells. Because their opening and shu
Scanorama Sida 93 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 93 CREW GUI
DE: This season’s must have gift “Travel tips from the experts. SAS Crew Guide is a handy book with useful tips.” Aftenposten, Oslo “An interesting read for the curious traveller.” El Pais, Madrid “SAS Crew Guide is fi lled with insider tips that you rarely fi nd in traditional guide books.” Dagens Industri, Stockholm “Holiday wisdom from SAS. The SAS Crew Guide covers everything from The Lion Park in Johannesburg to golf shops in Bangkok.” Esquire, London “Well-travelled? Even if you spend all your free time exploring the world, you still won’t get around as much as those who travel for a living. The answers are in the SAS Crew Guide.” Condé Nast Traveller, London “There are enough suggestions to make anyone want to hop on a plane tomorrow.” Sydney Morning Herald “Tips on where to stay, eat & shop from the people who know best.” Sunday Mirror, London “SAS Crew Guide is essential reading.” Elle Magazine, Spain Buy your own copy at www.sasguides.com or at a bookstore near you. The price is only €11 + postage and handling. Both are published in paperback, in English. NEW! SAS Crew Guide 2007 Insider tips to more than 20 world cities. 256 pages, price €11. SAS Crew Guide Escapes The airline insiders’ best-kept secrets. Discover empty beaches, urban retreats, remote resorts and more. 128 pages with full-color photos, price €11. annons_CrewGuide_Scanorama_page_1 1annonsCrewGuideScanoramapage1 107-03-14 16.47.1507-03-14 16.47.15SCANOR0704s093.ps 93SCANOR0704s093.ps 9307-03-15 16.36.3907-03-15 16.36.39
Scanorama Web & Tech 94 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 MY NE
W COMPUTER Im writing this column on a brand-new computer. Its eight days old now and just perfect. And beautiful. And so special. My very ? rst Mac. Its a white Mac- Book, with 2 gigabytes of RAM and a 200-GB hard drive, with all the usual goodies that Apple always packs its products with: iTunes, iPhoto, iEvery- thing. Oh, and did I say its gorgeous? This is the end of a long process that began in the late 1980s. I remember talking to my college buddy about buy- ing a Macintosh . He talked me out of it by promising me that I could copy all his DOS programs. And then he sold me his old Amstrad. About a year and a half ago, my PC broke and while it was in the shop for ? ve weeks (a story in itself), I was le
Scanorama Sida 95 96 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 Bridge O
ver Troubled Audio Systems There are numerous speaker systems for the iPod, ranging from a 100- dollar simple version to hi-fi systems, but what music lovers really want is a way to hook up the iPod to their Harman Kardon receiver in the living room, of course. And now Harman Kardon is selling you The Bridge, an iPod docking station that links the music player to the certain AVR receivers and lets you operate the iPod with the receiver’s remote control. It’s a nice 70-dol- lar accessory for your 900-dollar receiver. www.harmankardon.com CAN’T SEE EYE TO EYE? Video cha
Scanorama Sida 96 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 97 Although
the fi rst known instance of unsolicited com- mercial e-mail occurred in 1978, it wasn’t until the 1980s that “spam” was adopted to describe certain abusive users who frequented discussion forums and would repeat the word “SPAM” a huge number of times to scroll other users’ text off the screen. In early chat rooms, they actually fl ooded the screen with quotes from the Monty Python Spam sketch. In sid- ers of a group used this tactic to drive newcomers out of the room so that the usual conversation could con tin- ue. This act came to be known as spamming. (Source: Wikipedia) “The products they are selling by spam are exactly the same products that they sold in the Middle Ages. This really is a human problem, not a computer problem.” – DAVE RAND OF TREND MICRO, AN INTERNET SECURITY FIRM, ON CNN.COM OK, Alex, enough already Most e-mail around is spam. It’s offi cial. According to Postini, an American e-mail security company, spam now accounts for 90 percent of messages sent. Of that, 80 percent can be traced to a hard-core group of around 200 known spam gangs, says Spam- haus, an organization that tracks spammers and spam services. Most of the spam originates from USA, China and Japan. The top three spammers, according to Spamhaus, are Alex Blood a.k.a. Alexander Mosh or AlekseyB or Alex Polyakov, Leo Kuvayev a.k.a. BadCow and Michael Lindsay from iMedia Networks. h
Scanorama Sida 97 98 SCANORAMA APRIL 2007 Real Dea
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