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Scanorama september nr 9 Page 1 THE SCANDINAVIAN A
IRLINES MAGAZINE SINCE 1972 YOUR PERSONAL COPY SCANORAMA ˆ Q 16SEVILLE: 22STOCKHOLM: 26COPENHAGEN: 38NEW YORK: 42BERLIN: 50LONDON: 58COSTA BRAVA: 64PARIS: no.09 ˆ SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 TONY SHAFRAZI THE SCANDINAVIAN AIRLINES MAGAZINE SINCE 1972 YOUR PERSONAL COPY SCANORAMA ˆ Q 16SEVILLE: 22STOCKHOLM: 26COPENHAGEN: 38NEW YORK: 42BERLIN: 50LONDON: 58COSTA BRAVA: 64PARIS: no.09 ˆ SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 TONY SHAFRAZI
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 2 www.giorgioarmanib
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Scanorama september nr 9 Page 3
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 4 ENJOY CHILL OUT WI
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Scanorama september nr 9 Page 5 A message from the
CEO Mats Jansson President and CEO, SAS Group The price of lowcost T he airline industry is full of various businessmodels. There are network airlines; there are charter airlines, regional airlines, commuter airlines; and there are the so-called low cost airlines. Although there is no official defi nition of a “low cost” airline, the general perception in the market is that these airlines offer very low prices to the consumer while at the same time reducing the services offered to a minimum. On the other hand, they impose various charges for each and every additional feature the customer may want to make use of and often serve airports far away from the fi nal destination of the customer. Furthermore, the various charges of these airlines are often so non-transparent, that you frequently cannot even fi nd out what the total price of your journey actually will be. The result might not at all be “low cost” for you. Some airlines charge you for using a credit card when you book and pay for your journey. Some charge you for using the check-in counter and even for issuing a boarding card. Some charge you for checking ina bag, and many have exorbitant prices for food and drinks onboard. On top of this, you might be landing some 100 kilometers from the city that actually is your fi nal destination, resulting in signifi cant costs for ground transfers and last but not least, loss of valuable time. While customers now have a wide choice of travel options, it can often be concluded that “low cost” is far from what it claims to be. Adding all the components, you will find that travel with SAS is often the most attractive alternative, not only because we are fl ying tomain airports, but also because we take good care of you during your whole trip. Also when you have paid a low price with us, you Wonderful Copenhagen choose your seat before boarding and you get the small simple things, like your free newspaper.We also take good care of you and take our full responsibility, should there be an irregularity of some kind, making sure you reach your fi nal destination as fast as possible, sometimes in good cooperation with our Star Alliance partners. And there will be no surprises and no hidden costs. Furthermore, SAS can offer you one of the most attractive frequent fl yer programs on the market, and we provide you with a network of routes and connections to, from and within the Nordic region that cannot be matched by any “low cost” airline. Welcome onboard! For the latest news from Scandinavian Airlines, turn to the Our World section
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 6 CONTENTS ˆno.09 ˆ
12 16 ˆ ˆ 28 32 34 36 38 ˆ 42 50 58 64 68 The Tech The Traveler The Agenda The Lunch A river runs through it French resistance Perfect 10: Cap de Begur The bistro bites back Wish You Were Here Our World SCANORAMA ˆ SCANORAMA Editor’s Letter The Hit List The Details 16SEVILLE: 22STOCKHOLM: 27COPENHAGEN: 38NEW YORK: 42BERLIN: 50LONDON: 58COSTA BRAVA: 64PARIS: no.09 ˆ ˆ Club der Visionäre, photographed by Andreas Lönngren CONTENTS ˆno.09 ˆ 12 16 ˆ ˆ 28 32 34 36 38 ˆ 42 50 58 64 68 The Tech The Traveler The Agenda The Lunch A river runs through it French resistance Perfect 10: Cap de Begur The bistro bites back Wish You Were Here Our World SCANORAMA ˆ SCANORAMA Editor’s Letter The Hit List The Details 16SEVILLE: 22STOCKHOLM: 27COPENHAGEN: 38NEW YORK: 42BERLIN: 50LONDON: 58COSTA BRAVA: 64PARIS: no.09 ˆ ˆ Club der Visionäre, photographed by Andreas Lönngren
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 7 DRINK WITH CARE. S
TOLICHNAYA® Russian vodka. 40% Alc./Vol. 100% Grain Neutral Spirits. © 2008
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 8 SCANORAMA EDITORIA
L EDITOR IN CHIEF Per Olsson (responsible under Swedish press law) EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Rikard Lind ART DIRECTOR Annika Sundström EXECUTIVE EDITOR Graeme Nadasy SENIOR EDITOR Thomas Sjöberg SAS OUR WORLD EDITOR Peder Edvinsson PICTURE EDITOR Annika Olbin EDITOR Stephen Whitlock e-mail: firstname.lastname@dgcom.se DISTRIBUTION Carina Wuolikainen Eklund e-mail: carina.wuolikainen-eklund@sas.se PRODUCTION Annica Sunnerfors Tel: 46 8 797 03 45, Fax: 46 8 797 53 15 e-mail: annica.sunnerfors@dgcom.se DG MEDIA SALES Sweden DIRECTOR SALES & MARKETING Catarina Berggren Kerstin Adell, Display advertising Christina Arrhénborg, Display advertising Peter Brodersen, Display advertising Annika Stiernspetz, Sales and booking coordinator Tel: 46 8 797 04 00, Fax: 46 8 21 31 71 e-mail: firstname.lastname@dgmediasales.se INTERNATIONAL SALES DIRECTOR Anita Wollroth anita.wollroth@dgmediasales.se Tel: 46 8 797 03 47, Fax: 46 8 21 31 71 Norway Mona Hellund Siri Danielsen Tel: 47 21 60 81 90, Fax: 47 21 60 81 91 e-mail: firstname.lastname@dgmedia.no Denmark Ulrik Brostrøm Morten Petersen Tel: 45 33 85 30 00, Fax: 45 33 85 30 01 e-mail: ubr@jbmedia.dk, mpe@jbmedia.dk Scanorama is published by DG Communications AB, SE-195 87 Stockholm www.dgcom.se MANAGING DIRECTOR Lennart Löf Jennische PUBLISHER Magnus Lindvall SAS Customer Relations www.sas.se/feedback w w w .olelyngga ard.dk visit our fl agship store a t c openhagen airport Scanorama is distributed 10 times a year by SAS. Opinions expressed in this publication are those of the authors or persons interviewed and do not necessarily reflect the views of the editors, DG Communications AB or Scandinavian Airlines. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permission. Please note that unsolicited manu scripts, photographs and illustrations are not accepted. Scanorama accepts no responsibility for such material sent to its office, nor is it liable for loss of, or damage to, such material. All editorial material in Scanorama is digitally stored and may be republished by DG Communications or its clients, either in printed form or in various digital media. Persons contributing material to Scanorama consent to digital storage and republication. Any reservations against this should be made before publication. All correspondence to Scanorama may be published. SCANORAMA EDITORIAL EDITOR IN CHIEF Per Olsson (responsible under Swedish press law) EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Rikard Lind ART DIRECTOR Annika Sundström EXECUTIVE EDITOR Graeme Nadasy SENIOR EDITOR Thomas Sjöberg SAS OUR WORLD EDITOR Peder Edvinsson PICTURE EDITOR Annika Olbin EDITOR Stephen Whitlock e-mail: firstname.lastname@dgcom.se DISTRIBUTION Carina Wuolikainen Eklund e-mail: carina.wuolikainen-eklund@sas.se PRODUCTION Annica Sunnerfors Tel: 46 8 797 03 45, Fax: 46 8 797 53 15 e-mail: annica.sunnerfors@dgcom.se DG MEDIA SALES Sweden DIRECTOR SALES & MARKETING Catarina Berggren Kerstin Adell, Display advertising Christina Arrhénborg, Display advertising Peter Brodersen, Display advertising Annika Stiernspetz, Sales and booking coordinator Tel: 46 8 797 04 00, Fax: 46 8 21 31 71 e-mail: firstname.lastname@dgmediasales.se INTERNATIONAL SALES DIRECTOR Anita Wollroth anita.wollroth@dgmediasales.se Tel: 46 8 797 03 47, Fax: 46 8 21 31 71 Norway Mona Hellund Siri Danielsen Tel: 47 21 60 81 90, Fax: 47 21 60 81 91 e-mail: firstname.lastname@dgmedia.no Denmark Ulrik Brostrøm Morten Petersen Tel: 45 33 85 30 00, Fax: 45 33 85 30 01 e-mail: ubr@jbmedia.dk, mpe@jbmedia.dk Scanorama is published by DG Communications AB, SE-195 87 Stockholm www.dgcom.se MANAGING DIRECTOR Lennart Löf Jennische PUBLISHER Magnus Lindvall SAS Customer Relations www.sas.se/feedback w w w .olelyngga ard.dk visit our fl agship store a t c openhagen airport Scanorama is distributed 10 times a year by SAS. Opinions expressed in this publication are those of the authors or persons interviewed and do not necessarily reflect the views of the editors, DG Communications AB or Scandinavian Airlines. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permission. Please note that unsolicited manu scripts, photographs and illustrations are not accepted. Scanorama accepts no responsibility for such material sent to its office, nor is it liable for loss of, or damage to, such material. All editorial material in Scanorama is digitally stored and may be republished by DG Communications or its clients, either in printed form or in various digital media. Persons contributing material to Scanorama consent to digital storage and republication. Any reservations against this should be made before publication. All correspondence to Scanorama may be published.
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 9
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 10
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 11 WWW.GANT.COM
Scanorama september nr 9 Editor's letter THE EDITO
R Tackling big cities Fiorucci showed me the real Milan PER OLSSON ˆ CONTRIBUTOR: BOBO KARLSSON, WRITER xxxxxxx xxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxx In this issue you write about Berlin and the current push to modernize parts of the River Spree. What has changed the most since you first visited the city? Why do you keep coming back? What are your top Berlin tips? You now live in Rio de Janeiro. What is the best day out in Rio? BRUNO EHRS THE EDITOR Tackling big cities Fiorucci showed me the real Milan PER OLSSON ˆ CONTRIBUTOR: BOBO KARLSSON, WRITER xxxxxxx xxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxx In this issue you write about Berlin and the current push to modernize parts of the River Spree. What has changed the most since you first visited the city? Why do you keep coming back? What are your top Berlin tips? You now live in Rio de Janeiro. What is the best day out in Rio? BRUNO EHRS
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Scanorama september nr 9 The Hit List ˆ The Hit Li
st Editor RIKARD LIND 1. 16 ˆ High living in Seville HOTELS Seville, Spain, continues to establish itself as an interesting destination for those of us who appreciate sharp and innovative design hotels. Since launching last year, the EME Fusion Hotel in the heart of the city has collected numerous awards. It was one of the fi ve best new hotels in the Wall paper Design Awards 2009. The hotel off ers 60 rooms, which differ in style, and an overall design concept that blends sleek minimalism (bare earth tone walls, sandstone fl oors and elegant furniture) with traditional elements. A wiry pattern reminiscent of those in minarets is present throughout the hotel, and public areas such as the eccentric lobby display Catholic motifs, reminding us of the coexistence of Arab and Christian civilizations that characterizes Andalusia. The hotel itself refers to ”avantgarde and urban luxury.” There’s a gastronomic complex with four restaurants to choose from (Japanese, Mediterranean and tapas), as well as several bars, a spa and generous multipurpose areas. But there’s no doubt as to which part of the hotel will impress you the most – the roof has striking views of the Seville skyline, the cathedral and the Giralda tower. The EME Fusion Hotel features a multi-level roof terrace with swimming pool, lounge areas, a bar and a restaurant. To hang out in these surroundings, especially in the evening, is a privilege. Doubles start from $215. SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 EME Fusion Hotel Calle Alemanes, 27 Seville, Spain. Tel: 34 954 560 000. www.emehotel.com ˆ The Hit List Editor RIKARD LIND 1. 16 ˆ High living in Seville HOTELS Seville, Spain, continues to establish itself as an interesting destination for those of us who appreciate sharp and innovative design hotels. Since launching last year, the EME Fusion Hotel in the heart of the city has collected numerous awards. It was one of the fi ve best new hotels in the Wall paper Design Awards 2009. The hotel off ers 60 rooms, which differ in style, and an overall design concept that blends sleek minimalism (bare earth tone walls, sandstone fl oors and elegant furniture) with traditional elements. A wiry pattern reminiscent of those in minarets is present throughout the hotel, and public areas such as the eccentric lobby display Catholic motifs, reminding us of the coexistence of Arab and Christian civilizations that characterizes Andalusia. The hotel itself refers to ”avantgarde and urban luxury.” There’s a gastronomic complex with four restaurants to choose from (Japanese, Mediterranean and tapas), as well as several bars, a spa and generous multipurpose areas. But there’s no doubt as to which part of the hotel will impress you the most – the roof has striking views of the Seville skyline, the cathedral and the Giralda tower. The EME Fusion Hotel features a multi-level roof terrace with swimming pool, lounge areas, a bar and a restaurant. To hang out in these surroundings, especially in the evening, is a privilege. Doubles start from $215. SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 EME Fusion Hotel Calle Alemanes, 27 Seville, Spain. Tel: 34 954 560 000. www.emehotel.com
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 17 www.castillodemol
ina.com www.vinsprit.se
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 18 THE HIT LIST 2. H
imalaya, Leipzig, 2004, by Ville Lenkkeri www.helsinkischool.fi ˆ 3. Amarelli Fabbrica di Liquirizia Contrada Amarelli, Rossano, Italy. www.amarelli.it 18 ˆ Photo Finnish ART Recently photographers including Ville Lenkkeri, Miklos Gaál and Tiina Itkonen have been drawing attention to Finnish photography with numerous exhibitions across Europe. These three have one thing in common: along with the 40 other photographers now known collectively as the Helsinki School, they have either attended, graduated or taught at the University of Art and Design Helsinki. As a result, they have been trained to see themselves as artists rather than photojournalists and express themselves through a consistent conceptual approach. Although their styles vary there is a lyrical and melancholic quality in their work. “It’s about using the camera as a vehi- cle for thought,” says Timothy Persons, senior lecturer at the university and curator of the university’s Gallery TaiK, which since 2003 has had its permanent exhibition space in the happening art district of Mitte in Berlin. Karin Ström Licorice that sticks CANDY For thousands of years, one of the best places to grow licorice has been by the Ionian Sea near Rossano in Calabria, Italy. The plants, which seed themselves, start to grow wherever they fi nd a fertile patch of ground. Licorice was originally used as stomach medicine and the Amarelli family in Rossano started to produce an extract from wild licorice root in the 16th century. In 1731 they built a factory that is still used today, and they continue to work with the same traditional refi ning methods. The licorice root is chopped, ground and cooked to produce a rubbery substance that is shaped into rods and cut into smaller pieces before being left to dry. There’s nothing artifi cial about Amarelli licorice. It is 75% pure licorice; the rest is water. A natural, slightly bitter taste dominates, with a myriad of other nuances: salt, sugar, fl owers, earth, sea … The only additive is the chocolate, anise, orange or mint that coats some of the licorice pastilles before they are packed into small tin boxes. These pastilles are like the seeds of the plants they are made from – when they fi nd someone who likes them they start to grow on them. Peder Edvinsson SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 BOTOM: ERIK OLSSON, TOP: VILLE LENKKERI THE HIT LIST 2. Himalaya, Leipzig, 2004, by Ville Lenkkeri www.helsinkischool.fi ˆ 3. Amarelli Fabbrica di Liquirizia Contrada Amarelli, Rossano, Italy. www.amarelli.it 18 ˆ Photo Finnish ART Recently photographers including Ville Lenkkeri, Miklos Gaál and Tiina Itkonen have been drawing attention to Finnish photography with numerous exhibitions across Europe. These three have one thing in common: along with the 40 other photographers now known collectively as the Helsinki School, they have either attended, graduated or taught at the University of Art and Design Helsinki. As a result, they have been trained to see themselves as artists rather than photojournalists and express themselves through a consistent conceptual approach. Although their styles vary there is a lyrical and melancholic quality in their work. “It’s about using the camera as a vehi- cle for thought,” says Timothy Persons, senior lecturer at the university and curator of the university’s Gallery TaiK, which since 2003 has had its permanent exhibition space in the happening art district of Mitte in Berlin. Karin Ström Licorice that sticks CANDY For thousands of years, one of the best places to grow licorice has been by the Ionian Sea near Rossano in Calabria, Italy. The plants, which seed themselves, start to grow wherever they fi nd a fertile patch of ground. Licorice was originally used as stomach medicine and the Amarelli family in Rossano started to produce an extract from wild licorice root in the 16th century. In 1731 they built a factory that is still used today, and they continue to work with the same traditional refi ning methods. The licorice root is chopped, ground and cooked to produce a rubbery substance that is shaped into rods and cut into smaller pieces before being left to dry. There’s nothing artifi cial about Amarelli licorice. It is 75% pure licorice; the rest is water. A natural, slightly bitter taste dominates, with a myriad of other nuances: salt, sugar, fl owers, earth, sea … The only additive is the chocolate, anise, orange or mint that coats some of the licorice pastilles before they are packed into small tin boxes. These pastilles are like the seeds of the plants they are made from – when they fi nd someone who likes them they start to grow on them. Peder Edvinsson SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 BOTOM: ERIK OLSSON, TOP: VILLE LENKKERI
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 19
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 20 THE HIT LIST Some
of the produce on offer at Borough Market and Partridges Food Market 4. ˆ The pick of London’s markets FOOD Think of food shopping in London and what generally springs to mind are the supermarkets: Sainsbury’s, Tesco, Marks & Spencer … Less well known are the more traditional food markets where you can find richer pickings sourced from indepen dent producers, not to mention more charm, more character and more clatter. Borough Market, the city’s oldest food market, dates back to Roman times. It covers almost five acres close to London Bridge, so be sure to download the market map from the website before you visit. Open to the public three days a week. Partridges Food Market at Duke of York Square in Chelsea takes place every Saturday and is a great place to visit on your way to the adjoining Saatchi Gallery or a shopping trip down the King’s Road. Highlights include a plate of Maldon oysters from Essex, enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or a dash of Tabasco. 20 Smithfield Market has been one of the best places to buy meat in the city for centuries. Housed in a Victorian structure that is vividly painted in shades of purple, green and blue, it keeps the capital’s restaurants supplied but is also open to the public. For a market full of drama and spectacle, it’s hard to beat Smithfield. Billingsgate Market is the country’s biggest fish market, with more than 50 merchants to choose from. Be warned, though, that you’ll have to get here early: the market closes at 8.30am. Notting Hill Gate Farmers’ Market, which is tucked away behind a Waterstone’s bookstore, is far more enticing and rewarding than the overcrowded and overhyped street market in nearby Portobello Road. It’s particularly good for organic produce, as well as lots of game from the British countryside. Stephen Whitlock Borough Market Southwark Street. Tube: London Bridge. Thursday 11am-5pm; Friday 12pm6pm; Saturday 9am-4pm www.boroughmarket.org.uk Partridges Food Market Duke of York Square. Tube: South Kensington/Sloane Square. Saturday 10am4pm. www.partridges.co.uk Smithfield Market Charterhouse Street. Tube: Farringdon/Barbican. Monday–Friday 4am–noon www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/ Smithfield Billingsgate Market Trafalgar Way. Tube: Canary Wharf. Tuesday-Saturday 5am-8.30am. www.billingsgate-market.org.uk Notting Hill Gate Farmers’ Market Kensington Place. Tube: Notting Hill Gate. Saturday 9am-1pm. www.lfm.org.uk SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 JEFFERY RICHT THE HIT LIST Some of the produce on offer at Borough Market and Partridges Food Market 4. ˆ The pick of London’s markets FOOD Think of food shopping in London and what generally springs to mind are the supermarkets: Sainsbury’s, Tesco, Marks & Spencer … Less well known are the more traditional food markets where you can find richer pickings sourced from indepen dent producers, not to mention more charm, more character and more clatter. Borough Market, the city’s oldest food market, dates back to Roman times. It covers almost five acres close to London Bridge, so be sure to download the market map from the website before you visit. Open to the public three days a week. Partridges Food Market at Duke of York Square in Chelsea takes place every Saturday and is a great place to visit on your way to the adjoining Saatchi Gallery or a shopping trip down the King’s Road. Highlights include a plate of Maldon oysters from Essex, enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or a dash of Tabasco. 20 Smithfield Market has been one of the best places to buy meat in the city for centuries. Housed in a Victorian structure that is vividly painted in shades of purple, green and blue, it keeps the capital’s restaurants supplied but is also open to the public. For a market full of drama and spectacle, it’s hard to beat Smithfield. Billingsgate Market is the country’s biggest fish market, with more than 50 merchants to choose from. Be warned, though, that you’ll have to get here early: the market closes at 8.30am. Notting Hill Gate Farmers’ Market, which is tucked away behind a Waterstone’s bookstore, is far more enticing and rewarding than the overcrowded and overhyped street market in nearby Portobello Road. It’s particularly good for organic produce, as well as lots of game from the British countryside. Stephen Whitlock Borough Market Southwark Street. Tube: London Bridge. Thursday 11am-5pm; Friday 12pm6pm; Saturday 9am-4pm www.boroughmarket.org.uk Partridges Food Market Duke of York Square. Tube: South Kensington/Sloane Square. Saturday 10am4pm. www.partridges.co.uk Smithfield Market Charterhouse Street. Tube: Farringdon/Barbican. Monday–Friday 4am–noon www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/ Smithfield Billingsgate Market Trafalgar Way. Tube: Canary Wharf. Tuesday-Saturday 5am-8.30am. www.billingsgate-market.org.uk Notting Hill Gate Farmers’ Market Kensington Place. Tube: Notting Hill Gate. Saturday 9am-1pm. www.lfm.org.uk SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 JEFFERY RICHT
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 21 PROUDLY FOR MALUN
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Scanorama september nr 9 Page 22 THE HIT LIST Berg
man’s study at his home on Fårö 5. Lots include a magic lantern and an Irving Penn portrait of the great director Lights, camera, auction! INVESTMENT This month Bukowskis auction house in Stockholm is selling the private possessions of one of the world’s most famous film directors, Ingmar Bergman (19182007). It’s hoped that some Hollywood heavy hitters – or well-to-do fans in Italy and Germany, where Bergman was hugely popular – will be among the bidders. The 350 lots for sale are part of a unique collection, and the auction was initiated by Bergman’s family according to his last wishes. In his will he wrote specifically that “no discussion or emotional tumult must come as a result.” The senior curator at Bukowskis, Tom Österman, and two colleagues spent a week at Bergman’s estate on the Baltic Sea island of Fårö (the four buildings are for sale through Christie’s of London) to make an inventory of all the items. And they uncovered some real finds: A black-and-white portrait by photographer Irving Penn ($25,000$38,000), taken during an assignment in Sweden for Look magazine in 1964, signed “With greetings and many thanks, Irving Penn.” 22 An 18th-century grandfather clock, whose ticking inspired Bergman to use it in several films ($2,500-$3,200). A lithograph of Swedish author August Strindberg (1896) by Edvard Munch ($45,000). Two items might be of particu- lar interest to film buffs. The magic lantern that Bergman played with as a kid ($2,500-$3,800), and the chessboard used in The Seventh Seal, which won the Special Jury Prize at the 1957 Cannes Film Festival ($1,300-$1,900). But there are also pieces of fur- niture, including a Charles Eames chair in which Bergman read books and had telephone conversations, and an extensive collection of VHS films. Fans such as Woody Allen should definitely place a bid. Thomas Sjöberg ˆ Viewing: September 24-27. Sale: September 28. www.bergmanauction.com www.bukowskis.se www.christiesgreatestates.com SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 THE HIT LIST Bergman’s study at his home on Fårö 5. Lots include a magic lantern and an Irving Penn portrait of the great director Lights, camera, auction! INVESTMENT This month Bukowskis auction house in Stockholm is selling the private possessions of one of the world’s most famous film directors, Ingmar Bergman (19182007). It’s hoped that some Hollywood heavy hitters – or well-to-do fans in Italy and Germany, where Bergman was hugely popular – will be among the bidders. The 350 lots for sale are part of a unique collection, and the auction was initiated by Bergman’s family according to his last wishes. In his will he wrote specifically that “no discussion or emotional tumult must come as a result.” The senior curator at Bukowskis, Tom Österman, and two colleagues spent a week at Bergman’s estate on the Baltic Sea island of Fårö (the four buildings are for sale through Christie’s of London) to make an inventory of all the items. And they uncovered some real finds: A black-and-white portrait by photographer Irving Penn ($25,000$38,000), taken during an assignment in Sweden for Look magazine in 1964, signed “With greetings and many thanks, Irving Penn.” 22 An 18th-century grandfather clock, whose ticking inspired Bergman to use it in several films ($2,500-$3,200). A lithograph of Swedish author August Strindberg (1896) by Edvard Munch ($45,000). Two items might be of particu- lar interest to film buffs. The magic lantern that Bergman played with as a kid ($2,500-$3,800), and the chessboard used in The Seventh Seal, which won the Special Jury Prize at the 1957 Cannes Film Festival ($1,300-$1,900). But there are also pieces of fur- niture, including a Charles Eames chair in which Bergman read books and had telephone conversations, and an extensive collection of VHS films. Fans such as Woody Allen should definitely place a bid. Thomas Sjöberg ˆ Viewing: September 24-27. Sale: September 28. www.bergmanauction.com www.bukowskis.se www.christiesgreatestates.com SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 23 One Nordic paymen
t solution BBS offers a common Nordic payment terminal solution,enablingthe use of only one supplier across the national markets. Merchantsalsobenefit fromasimplified business model across the Nordic region. www.bbs-nordic.com KITCHEN
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 24 THE HIT LIST Pier
o Lissoni’s piece of paradise 6. Paradise redesigned ARCHITECTURE It’s so over-the-top that you have to love it. Or buy it. On the 560-acre private island Dellis Cay in the Turks and Caicos archipelago, Turkish entrepreneurs Cem Kinay and Oguz Serim are bringing cutting -edge architecture to a turquoise part of the world more associated with traditional luxury resorts. Kinay and Serim have given an A-list team of archi- 7. 24 tects – Zaha Hadid, Shigeru Ban, David Chipperfield, Piero Lissoni, and Carl Ettensperger – carte blanche to design a number of private villas, as well as a Mandarin Oriental hotel and spa. The villas will go for between $2 million and $10 million. Catherine Zeta-Jones and Michael Douglas were quick to snap up one of the Lissoni oceanfront designs.Dellis Cay is scheduled to open in 2010. ˆ Moscot Originals Vilda, $220 Find your Achilles’ heel SHOPPING When the Achilles Project opened in Boston’s upand-coming Fort Point Channel neighborhood a year ago, the city gained an upmarket fashion boutique, gourmet restaurant and forward-thinking art gallery, all in one light and airy 9,800 square foot space. You can be inspired by the latest exhibition, pick up something nice from Band of Outsiders, Opening Ceremony, Richard Chai, Shipley & Halmos or Martin Margiela, among others, and then celebrate your excellent taste with a bite at Persephone, the restaurant run by Michael Leviton of Lumière fame. Sol Moscot. 118 Orchard Street, New York. Tel: 1 212 477 3796. www. moscot.com ˆ 8. Achilles Projects 283 Summer Street, Boston. Tel: 1 617 423 2257. ˆ www.achilles-project.com Easy on the eyes DESIGN Established on New York’s Lower East Side in 1915, Moscot Eyewear and Eyecare produces spectacles that have been worn and made famous by celebrities including Buddy Holly, Johnny Depp, Truman Capote, Woody Allen and even Gandhi. Hyman Moscot was an enterprising gentleman. After arriving from Europe in 1899, he began selling eyeglasses from a pushcart on the Lower East Side. More than 90 years and four generations of Moscots later, the store on Orchard Street is still there, together with one on West 14th Street. We especially like the two collections of rounder, nerdier specs: the vintage-inspired Moscot Originals and Moscot Spirit. Jonathan Leijonberg SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 www.delliscay.com LEFT: RIKARD LIND THE HIT LIST Piero Lissoni’s piece of paradise 6. Paradise redesigned ARCHITECTURE It’s so over-the-top that you have to love it. Or buy it. On the 560-acre private island Dellis Cay in the Turks and Caicos archipelago, Turkish entrepreneurs Cem Kinay and Oguz Serim are bringing cutting -edge architecture to a turquoise part of the world more associated with traditional luxury resorts. Kinay and Serim have given an A-list team of archi- 7. 24 tects – Zaha Hadid, Shigeru Ban, David Chipperfield, Piero Lissoni, and Carl Ettensperger – carte blanche to design a number of private villas, as well as a Mandarin Oriental hotel and spa. The villas will go for between $2 million and $10 million. Catherine Zeta-Jones and Michael Douglas were quick to snap up one of the Lissoni oceanfront designs.Dellis Cay is scheduled to open in 2010. ˆ Moscot Originals Vilda, $220 Find your Achilles’ heel SHOPPING When the Achilles Project opened in Boston’s upand-coming Fort Point Channel neighborhood a year ago, the city gained an upmarket fashion boutique, gourmet restaurant and forward-thinking art gallery, all in one light and airy 9,800 square foot space. You can be inspired by the latest exhibition, pick up something nice from Band of Outsiders, Opening Ceremony, Richard Chai, Shipley & Halmos or Martin Margiela, among others, and then celebrate your excellent taste with a bite at Persephone, the restaurant run by Michael Leviton of Lumière fame. Sol Moscot. 118 Orchard Street, New York. Tel: 1 212 477 3796. www. moscot.com ˆ 8. Achilles Projects 283 Summer Street, Boston. Tel: 1 617 423 2257. ˆ www.achilles-project.com Easy on the eyes DESIGN Established on New York’s Lower East Side in 1915, Moscot Eyewear and Eyecare produces spectacles that have been worn and made famous by celebrities including Buddy Holly, Johnny Depp, Truman Capote, Woody Allen and even Gandhi. Hyman Moscot was an enterprising gentleman. After arriving from Europe in 1899, he began selling eyeglasses from a pushcart on the Lower East Side. More than 90 years and four generations of Moscots later, the store on Orchard Street is still there, together with one on West 14th Street. We especially like the two collections of rounder, nerdier specs: the vintage-inspired Moscot Originals and Moscot Spirit. Jonathan Leijonberg SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 www.delliscay.com LEFT: RIKARD LIND
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 25 9. Catch of the b
ay DINING You know how it is when you are exploring a new city and you discover a truly authentic part of it. It can be a square, a block or a neglected neighborhood, but suddenly you feel as though you have come close to the soul of the city, like you have found a secret treasure. Vallons des Auffes in Marseille is just like that. It’s a small, idyllic bay just outside the city center with well- preserved parts of the original city. Picturesque houses shoulder each other in narrow spaces, against a soundtrack of fishing boats arriving with the catch of the day and old men chattering with each other on the benches by the harbor. But everything isn’t as it seems in Vallons des Auffes. It has become one of Marseille’s more luxurious neighborhoods. Those small houses are home to politicians, movie stars and business executives. Two of the city’s most prominent restaurants are here: Chez Fonfon and the Michelinstarred L’Epuisette. Both focus on seafood and both are excellent. Chez Fonfon has been around since 1952, offering affordable three-course meals and an irresistible langoustine with saffron butter. Thirty steps away from Chez Fonfon is L’Epuisette, which has a breathtaking location on a cliff that juts out into the ocean. L’Epuisette’s claim to fame is its bouillabaisse, which might just be the best in the world. Annina Rabe ˆ Chez Fonfon 140, Vallon des Auffes. Tel: +33 04 91 52 14 38. www.chez-fonfon.com L’Epuisette Vallon des Auffes. Tel: +33 04 91 52 17 82. www.l-epuisette.com SCANORAMA JULY/AUGUST 2009 25 ERIK OLSSON
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 26 THE HIT LIST 10.
Tequila rising MIXOLOGY Are you haunted by bad memories of throat-burning tequila hammered down with lime and salt? Then you should grab the first opportunity to visit the Oak Room in Copenhagen. This bar serves amazing drinks based on the Mexican firewater to a growing number of enthusiasts. “Tequila is a fun challenge because everyone hates it,” bartender Carl Wrangel says. Both Wrangel and his partner in crime, fellow bartender “Spaniard,” share a passion for this spirit, which is extracted from blue agave (which is a lily, not a cactus). They preach the word of tequila in the trendy Nørrebro district. “We love the smile tequila puts on people’s faces. It’s a smile you can’t get rid of,”Wrangel says. Trips to Mexico have resulted in an un rivaled collection of tequilas, ranging from the clear, straight-from-the-still Tequila Blanco to Tequila Extra or Ultra Añejo, which is aged in oak barrels for at least three years and has a whiskey-like character. A shot of fragrant and well-balanced Reposado, or rested tequila, will kill any notion that all members of the tequila family are rancid and stinging. Sophia Genitz ˆ ˆˆ Tommy’s 2.5cl freshly squeezed lime juice 1.5cl agave syrup 0.5cl water 5cl Tequila Blanco Put the ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice and shake vigorously. Pour the drink into a rocks glass filled with ice. La Cucaracha Half a passion fruit 2.5cl freshly squeezed lime juice 1cl puree of passion fruit (or juice) 1.5cl Agavero tequila liqueur 3.5cl Tequila Reposado 1 tbsp icing sugar 3.5cl apple juice Pour the ingredients into a high Sling glass. Stir and top up with ice. Garnish with sliced apple. To be sure of getting the real stuff always look for 100% agave tequila and bottles marked “CRT (el consejo regulador del tequila).” 11. ˆ Hotel Okura. 2-10-4 Toranomon Minato-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 81 3 3582 0111. www.hotelokura.com 26 Tokyo original HOTELS When the Hotel Okura Tokyo opened in 1962, its state-of-the art interior became one of the first examples of Japanese modern design finding its own language, instead of merely copying Western functionalism ideals. The brain behind the hotel was the celebrated architect Yoshiro Taniguchi, also known for redesigning the National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo. While the guest rooms have undergone renovations over the years, the public spaces remain adorably unchanged. Few interiors in Tokyo can match the elegance of the Okura lobby, where traditional elements from the Edo era meet the confidence and slickness of postwar Tokyo, which was fueled by an economic boom known as the Japanese Miracle when the economy grew about 10% a year throughout the 1960s. The huge, carefully lit seating area is decorated with low, understated armchairs and hanging lanterns that descend from the ceiling like beautiful trailing plants. Gigantic floorto-ceiling windows, partially covered by traditional Japanese screens, overlook a peaceful Japanese garden. Sit back, enjoy a chilled nihonshu (Japanese sake), and let the surroundings transport you back to a time when the world’s most modern city started to acquire its futuristic appearance. Karin Ström SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 The Oak Room. 10 Birkegade, Copenhagen. Tel: 45 38 60 38 60. www.oakroom.dk MIDDLE, TOP: MIRIAM PREIS THE HIT LIST 10. Tequila rising MIXOLOGY Are you haunted by bad memories of throat-burning tequila hammered down with lime and salt? Then you should grab the first opportunity to visit the Oak Room in Copenhagen. This bar serves amazing drinks based on the Mexican firewater to a growing number of enthusiasts. “Tequila is a fun challenge because everyone hates it,” bartender Carl Wrangel says. Both Wrangel and his partner in crime, fellow bartender “Spaniard,” share a passion for this spirit, which is extracted from blue agave (which is a lily, not a cactus). They preach the word of tequila in the trendy Nørrebro district. “We love the smile tequila puts on people’s faces. It’s a smile you can’t get rid of,”Wrangel says. Trips to Mexico have resulted in an un rivaled collection of tequilas, ranging from the clear, straight-from-the-still Tequila Blanco to Tequila Extra or Ultra Añejo, which is aged in oak barrels for at least three years and has a whiskey-like character. A shot of fragrant and well-balanced Reposado, or rested tequila, will kill any notion that all members of the tequila family are rancid and stinging. Sophia Genitz ˆ ˆˆ Tommy’s 2.5cl freshly squeezed lime juice 1.5cl agave syrup 0.5cl water 5cl Tequila Blanco Put the ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice and shake vigorously. Pour the drink into a rocks glass filled with ice. La Cucaracha Half a passion fruit 2.5cl freshly squeezed lime juice 1cl puree of passion fruit (or juice) 1.5cl Agavero tequila liqueur 3.5cl Tequila Reposado 1 tbsp icing sugar 3.5cl apple juice Pour the ingredients into a high Sling glass. Stir and top up with ice. Garnish with sliced apple. To be sure of getting the real stuff always look for 100% agave tequila and bottles marked “CRT (el consejo regulador del tequila).” 11. ˆ Hotel Okura. 2-10-4 Toranomon Minato-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 81 3 3582 0111. www.hotelokura.com 26 Tokyo original HOTELS When the Hotel Okura Tokyo opened in 1962, its state-of-the art interior became one of the first examples of Japanese modern design finding its own language, instead of merely copying Western functionalism ideals. The brain behind the hotel was the celebrated architect Yoshiro Taniguchi, also known for redesigning the National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo. While the guest rooms have undergone renovations over the years, the public spaces remain adorably unchanged. Few interiors in Tokyo can match the elegance of the Okura lobby, where traditional elements from the Edo era meet the confidence and slickness of postwar Tokyo, which was fueled by an economic boom known as the Japanese Miracle when the economy grew about 10% a year throughout the 1960s. The huge, carefully lit seating area is decorated with low, understated armchairs and hanging lanterns that descend from the ceiling like beautiful trailing plants. Gigantic floorto-ceiling windows, partially covered by traditional Japanese screens, overlook a peaceful Japanese garden. Sit back, enjoy a chilled nihonshu (Japanese sake), and let the surroundings transport you back to a time when the world’s most modern city started to acquire its futuristic appearance. Karin Ström SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 The Oak Room. 10 Birkegade, Copenhagen. Tel: 45 38 60 38 60. www.oakroom.dk MIDDLE, TOP: MIRIAM PREIS
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 27 SLEEK FOR
M. HIDDEN POWER.
Scanorama september nr 9 The details THE DETAILS D
aydream collage by Carouschka, price on request Door sign, Byggfabriken, $25 Modulor tape measure by Le Corbusier, Vitra/Nordiska Galleriet, $83 Spitfire Chronograph Automatic, IWC/Krons Ur, $5,349. Small hook, Byggfabriken, $3 Two-hook hanger, Byggfabriken, $6 Saab Concept Car keychain, Playsam/ Nordiska Galleriet, $16. Keyholder,Byggfabriken, $2 Humidifier by Plus Minus Zero/Asplund, $468 Marilyn lamp, Watt och Veke, $200 Timor table calendar, Danese Milano, $145 Glass, Nordiska Galleriet, $4. White pencils, Granit, 65 cents each YSL 6263 MOM glasses by Yves Saint Laurent, Safilo, $264 Playtown Stockholm landmarks (set of four), Playsam/ Nordiska Galleriet, $205 Coccoina paper glue, Deskstore, $5 Emform Future paper clip magnet, Deskstore, $27 Mug, Frank Form, $19 Handmade leather folder for A5 block by Pinetti, Frank Form, $86 Grip art pencil by E M Holzprodukte, Deskstore, $13 Leuchtturm Master notebook A4 , Deskstore, $25. THE DETAILS Daydream collage by Carouschka, price on request Door sign, Byggfabriken, $25 Modulor tape measure by Le Corbusier, Vitra/Nordiska Galleriet, $83 Spitfire Chronograph Automatic, IWC/Krons Ur, $5,349. Small hook, Byggfabriken, $3 Two-hook hanger, Byggfabriken, $6 Saab Concept Car keychain, Playsam/ Nordiska Galleriet, $16. Keyholder,Byggfabriken, $2 Humidifier by Plus Minus Zero/Asplund, $468 Marilyn lamp, Watt och Veke, $200 Timor table calendar, Danese Milano, $145 Glass, Nordiska Galleriet, $4. White pencils, Granit, 65 cents each YSL 6263 MOM glasses by Yves Saint Laurent, Safilo, $264 Playtown Stockholm landmarks (set of four), Playsam/ Nordiska Galleriet, $205 Coccoina paper glue, Deskstore, $5 Emform Future paper clip magnet, Deskstore, $27 Mug, Frank Form, $19 Handmade leather folder for A5 block by Pinetti, Frank Form, $86 Grip art pencil by E M Holzprodukte, Deskstore, $13 Leuchtturm Master notebook A4 , Deskstore, $25.
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 29 Look sharp at the
office by JENNY STEGGO/AGENT BAUER and ANNA LILJA Come Together cardholder, Nordiska Galleriet, $29 Art by Carouschka, price on request Preiser 1:50 scale figures (pack of 60), Material, $51 Outside caliper, Wirströms Järn & Färg, $26 Boston Classic vacuum mount pencil sharpener, Deskstore, $69 Calculator by Plus Minus Zero/Asplund, $38
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 30 THE DETAILS Gold-
plated handheld stapler by El Casco, Deskstore, $245 50cm ruler, Granit, $6 Jet pen set by Lexon Design, Deskstore, $30 Asplund, www.asplund.org, IWC/Krons Ur, www.kronsur.com or www.iwc.com, Playsam/Nordiska Galleriet, www.playsam.se or www.nordiskagalleriet.se, Danese Milano, www.danesemilano.com, Safilo, www.safilo.com, Muuto, www.muuto.com, Studio Violet, www.studioviolet.se, Deskstore, www.deskstore.com, Frank Form, www.frankform.se, Tivoli Audio, www.tivoliaudio.com, Herr Judit Secondhand, www.herrjudit.se, Bjørg, www.bjorgjewellery.com, Watt & Veke, www.wattveke.se, Byggfabriken, www.byggfabriken.com, Archie Grand, www.archiegrand.com, Material, Tel: 46 8 640 3002, Granit, www.granit.com, Wirströms Järn & Färg, www.wirstroms.se, Carouschka, www.carouschka.se THE DETAILS Gold-plated handheld stapler by El Casco, Deskstore, $245 50cm ruler, Granit, $6 Jet pen set by Lexon Design, Deskstore, $30 Asplund, www.asplund.org, IWC/Krons Ur, www.kronsur.com or www.iwc.com, Playsam/Nordiska Galleriet, www.playsam.se or www.nordiskagalleriet.se, Danese Milano, www.danesemilano.com, Safilo, www.safilo.com, Muuto, www.muuto.com, Studio Violet, www.studioviolet.se, Deskstore, www.deskstore.com, Frank Form, www.frankform.se, Tivoli Audio, www.tivoliaudio.com, Herr Judit Secondhand, www.herrjudit.se, Bjørg, www.bjorgjewellery.com, Watt & Veke, www.wattveke.se, Byggfabriken, www.byggfabriken.com, Archie Grand, www.archiegrand.com, Material, Tel: 46 8 640 3002, Granit, www.granit.com, Wirströms Järn & Färg, www.wirstroms.se, Carouschka, www.carouschka.se
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 31 Gold clips (12 pi
eces), Bethge/Deskstore, $12 Mr Mustache/Headhunters prints (pack of two), Studio Violet, $24 Ball Clock by George Nelson, Vitra/Nordiska Galleriet, $475 Wooden lamp by TAF Arkitektkontor, Muuto (launching later this year) Rabbit brooch, Bjørg, $135 Letter A, Byggfabriken, $44 Bilancia wall calendar by Enzo Mari, Danese Milano, $99 NetWorks Global Audio System with FMin cherry/gold, Tivoli Audio, $985 I’m Boo carafe by Norway Says, Muuto/Frank Form, $79 Gold-plated desk stapler by El Casco, Deskstore, $219 Gold-plated scissors by El Casco, Deskstore, $105 Scales, Stamp by Artpyk, Frank Form, $43 Kaweco Sport fountain pen, Kaweco/ Deskstore, $19 Herr Judit Secondhand, $32 Glass, Nordiska Galleriet, $2.50 Wooden paper clips (box of 50) Qlimb/Deskstore, $8 Notebooks from Archie Grand, $11
Scanorama september nr 9 The Tech THE TECH Speed d
emon REAR BRAKE HYDRATION FORK Words by JONATHAN LEIJONBERG OPTIMIZED AERO www.cervelo.com 32 TUBE SHAPES CONSTRUCTION SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 THE TECH Speed demon REAR BRAKE HYDRATION FORK Words by JONATHAN LEIJONBERG OPTIMIZED AERO www.cervelo.com 32 TUBE SHAPES CONSTRUCTION SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 33 Earn EuroBonus po
ints with SAS’ largest global hotel partner Best Western Hotels is SAS’ largest global hotel partner. As a EuroBonus member you can earn and redeem your points while staying in one of our more than 130 hotels throughout Scandinavia or 4,000 hotels worldwide. We also offer a number of exclusive service benefi ts, like free internet etc. Best Western consists of privately owned quality hotels, and offers you a solid commitment of value, quality and superior customer service. Our uniqueness is found in each hotel’s charm and local appeal, so you will never fi nd two hotels alike. Best Western is the World´s Largest Hotel Chain® . Visit our websites for more information or call our toll free numbers: Sweden www.bestwestern.se 020 792 752 Norway www.bestwestern.no 800 11 624 Denmark www.bestwestern.dk 80 01 09 88
Scanorama september nr 9 The Traveler THE TRAVELER
Prophet of boom ‘‘ ˆ 5 FAVORITES Restaurant The Bread Bar at Tabla in New York for sentimental reasons. Tabla. 11 Madison Avenue at 25th Street, New York, USA. www.tablany.com. Hotel It’s a tie between the Singita Sweni Lodge in Kruger National Park, South Africa, and Seoul’s new Park Hyatt. And let’s not forget the Chateau Marmont in Los Angeles. Singita Sweni Lodge. www.singita.com. Park Hyatt Seoul. 995-14 Daechi 3-dong Gangnam-gu, Seoul, Korea. www.seoul.park. hyatt.com. Chateau Marmont. 8221 Sunset Boulevard, Hollywood, USA. www.chateaumarmont.com Store Svensk Slöjd in Stockholm satisfies all my craft cravings. Nybrogatan 23. www.svenskslojd.se Place Normandy in France, my sole real escape. A view I never forget The Bosphorous in Istanbul, Turkey. As told to KARIN STRÖM The Singita Sweni Lodge in South Africa is a favorite of Li Edelkoort SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 SINGITA GAME RESERVES THE TRAVELER Prophet of boom ‘‘ ˆ 5 FAVORITES Restaurant The Bread Bar at Tabla in New York for sentimental reasons. Tabla. 11 Madison Avenue at 25th Street, New York, USA. www.tablany.com. Hotel It’s a tie between the Singita Sweni Lodge in Kruger National Park, South Africa, and Seoul’s new Park Hyatt. And let’s not forget the Chateau Marmont in Los Angeles. Singita Sweni Lodge. www.singita.com. Park Hyatt Seoul. 995-14 Daechi 3-dong Gangnam-gu, Seoul, Korea. www.seoul.park. hyatt.com. Chateau Marmont. 8221 Sunset Boulevard, Hollywood, USA. www.chateaumarmont.com Store Svensk Slöjd in Stockholm satisfies all my craft cravings. Nybrogatan 23. www.svenskslojd.se Place Normandy in France, my sole real escape. A view I never forget The Bosphorous in Istanbul, Turkey. As told to KARIN STRÖM The Singita Sweni Lodge in South Africa is a favorite of Li Edelkoort SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 SINGITA GAME RESERVES
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 35 SAS EuroBonusShop
. Shop without money! Go to fl ysas.com/eurobonus and see what you can get for your earned SAS EuroBonus points! Keepaneye out for the September offers and auction. flysas.com/eurobonus
Scanorama september nr 9 The Agenda THE AGENDA A c
areer in ruins D It took you and your partner, Jeff Cullis, six years to get the show on the road. Did you ever stop and think that what you were doing was crazy? You were 57 years old at the time. Did your children think you were having a mid-life crisis? A funny thing happened to Stellan Lind on the way to the forum How did you get into chariot racing? Do you feel like you were born in the wrong century? Why do you think it took 1,800 years for someone to once again take up this “popular sport”? 36 When did you realize that you could make this happen? Would you describe what you do as a lifestyle, a hobby or a business? Why did you settle on the ancient Roman arena in Jerash and not, say, the Circus Maximus? With shows six days a week year- round, it must be popular? You are the biggest employer in the region with 65 people. How do you recruit gladiators and drivers? Chariot racing, Roman army maneu- vers, gladiatorial battles ... Have you been tempted to join the action? Your sister is married to Prince Ra’ad of ‘The Minister of Tourism thought wewere bonkers’ Jordan, what does the royal family think of all this? Seeing Ben-Hur changed your life. When did you last watch it? What’s your advice to anyone with a dream? SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 By GISELA KARLMARK THE AGENDA A career in ruins D It took you and your partner, Jeff Cullis, six years to get the show on the road. Did you ever stop and think that what you were doing was crazy? You were 57 years old at the time. Did your children think you were having a mid-life crisis? A funny thing happened to Stellan Lind on the way to the forum How did you get into chariot racing? Do you feel like you were born in the wrong century? Why do you think it took 1,800 years for someone to once again take up this “popular sport”? 36 When did you realize that you could make this happen? Would you describe what you do as a lifestyle, a hobby or a business? Why did you settle on the ancient Roman arena in Jerash and not, say, the Circus Maximus? With shows six days a week year- round, it must be popular? You are the biggest employer in the region with 65 people. How do you recruit gladiators and drivers? Chariot racing, Roman army maneu- vers, gladiatorial battles ... Have you been tempted to join the action? Your sister is married to Prince Ra’ad of ‘The Minister of Tourism thought wewere bonkers’ Jordan, what does the royal family think of all this? Seeing Ben-Hur changed your life. When did you last watch it? What’s your advice to anyone with a dream? SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 By GISELA KARLMARK
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 37
Scanorama september nr 9 The Lunch THE LUNCH Rebel
without a pause T 38 Words by MARTIN GELIN Illustration by HANNA WIESLANDER SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 THE LUNCH Rebel without a pause T 38 Words by MARTIN GELIN Illustration by HANNA WIESLANDER SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 39
SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 u 39
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 40
S W 40 My hope was that by doing what I did, I could bring Guernicaback to life, make it relevant and put it on the front page of newspapers all over the world. And that is exactly what happened “ I SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 S W 40 My hope was that by doing what I did, I could bring Guernicaback to life, make it relevant and put it on the front page of newspapers all over the world. And that is exactly what happened “ I SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 41
SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 W A ˆ ˆ Salad, sandwiches, freshly baked pastries Coffee and several bottles of San Pellegrino ˆ Lunch was at the Tony Shafrazi Gallery, 544 West 26th Street, New York. 41
Scanorama september nr 9 A river runs through it W
ords by BOBO KARLSSON Photographs by ANDREAS LÖNNGREN BERLIN, GERMANY The banks of the River Spree are a far cry from the rampant Words by BOBO KARLSSON Photographs by ANDREAS LÖNNGREN BERLIN, GERMANY The banks of the River Spree are a far cry from the rampant
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 43 comm
ercialism of London’s Docklands. And that’s what makes it so exciting
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 44 44
Relaxing on the banks of the River Spree at the charmingly laid-back and funky Club der Visionäre SCANORAMA JUNE 2009 44 Relaxing on the banks of the River Spree at the charmingly laid-back and funky Club der Visionäre SCANORAMA JUNE 2009
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 45
Oberbaumbrücke, a two- level bridge over the Spree, links Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg u SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 45 ILLUSTRATION: KRISTIN EDLUND
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 46
46 Laid-back (quite literally) at Spindler & Klatt SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 u 46 Laid-back (quite literally) at Spindler & Klatt SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 u
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 47 www.bornicon-salm
ing.se From a part of the world with lots of great memories The Original Thai Beer
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 48 INTERNATIONAL CAL
LS FROM YOUR MOBILE PHONE – FROM €0.02 PER MINUTE! www.OperatorOne.net Operator One offers a smart service for making international phone calls from mobile phones. By calling your international friends on local phone numbers you’ll save as much as 98%! You use your existing mobile phone and regular network, but call to new, local phone numbers that Operator One provides you with. These calls are charged from only €0.02 per minute. The service is available from 35 countries and phone calls can be made to any part of the world. What you should do: Go to www.OperatorOne.net, sign up and create an account (it does not cost you anything), add the international friends that you would like to call to your list of contacts and then use the local phone numbers that you are provided with, to call directly to your friends. That’s it! Call to Landline Australia €0.02/min Brazil €0.04/min Denmark €0.02/min France €0.02/min Iran €0.09/min Israel €0.02/min Norway €0.02/min Poland €0.02/min Spain €0.02/min Sweden €0.02/min Switzerland €0.02/min Thailand €0.02/min UK €0.02/min USA €0.02/min Global friends. Local calls! Mobile €0.12/min €0.19/min €0.19/min €0.16/min €0.09/min €0.09/min €0.19/min €0.16/min €0.16/min €0.09/min €0.29/min €0.02/min €0.16/min €0.02/min The local part of your call – i.e. a local call to a regular landline phone – will still be charged by your current mobile phone company (service provider). Operator One’s full price list is available on www.OperatorOne.net. INTERNATIONAL CALLS FROM YOUR MOBILE PHONE – FROM €0.02 PER MINUTE! www.OperatorOne.net Operator One offers a smart service for making international phone calls from mobile phones. By calling your international friends on local phone numbers you’ll save as much as 98%! You use your existing mobile phone and regular network, but call to new, local phone numbers that Operator One provides you with. These calls are charged from only €0.02 per minute. The service is available from 35 countries and phone calls can be made to any part of the world. What you should do: Go to www.OperatorOne.net, sign up and create an account (it does not cost you anything), add the international friends that you would like to call to your list of contacts and then use the local phone numbers that you are provided with, to call directly to your friends. That’s it! Call to Landline Australia €0.02/min Brazil €0.04/min Denmark €0.02/min France €0.02/min Iran €0.09/min Israel €0.02/min Norway €0.02/min Poland €0.02/min Spain €0.02/min Sweden €0.02/min Switzerland €0.02/min Thailand €0.02/min UK €0.02/min USA €0.02/min Global friends. Local calls! Mobile €0.12/min €0.19/min €0.19/min €0.16/min €0.09/min €0.09/min €0.19/min €0.16/min €0.16/min €0.09/min €0.29/min €0.02/min €0.16/min €0.02/min The local part of your call – i.e. a local call to a regular landline phone – will still be charged by your current mobile phone company (service provider). Operator One’s full price list is available on www.OperatorOne.net.
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 49
Universal signals its presence with bright neon lights in Media Spree just across from Oberbaumbrücke ˆ ˆ THE FACT SHEET Arena Eichenstrasse 4, Treptow. www.arena-berlin.de Bar 25 Holzmarktstrasse 25, Friedrichshain. www.bar25.de Berghain Am Wriezener Bahnhof 1, Friedrichshain. www.berghain.de Box at the Beach Fidicinstrasse, Tiergarten. www.box berlin.com Club der Visionäre Am Flutgraben 1, Treptow. www.clubder visionaere.com Grill Royal Friedrichstrasse 105B, Mitte. www.grillroyal.com Kiki Blofeld Köpenicker Strasse 48, Kreuzberg. www.kikiblofeld.de The Sage Köpenicker Strasse 76, Kreuzberg. www.sage-club.de Spindler & Klatt Köpenicker Strasse 16/17, Kreuzberg. www.spindlerklatt.com Watergate Falckensteinstrasse 49, Kreuzberg. www.water-gate.de Competition on international mailing toughens in Scandinavia While domestic postal markets in the EU head towards complete deregulation by the end of 2011, the market for international mailing is already highly competitive and offers a wide range of services and suppliers. Thomas Sjölin, Managing Director of Swiss Post Scandinavia Swiss Post International Scandinavia was established earlier this year. Swiss Post International, founded in 1996, is the international arm of Swiss Post. Today it is the world’s third largest supplier of international mail services with offices and partners in Europe, Asia and North America. “Companies involved in cross-border mailing have the opportunity to deliver both quality and efficiency in a completely new way, and the level of service has increased substantially” says Thomas Sjölin, Managing Director of Swiss Post Scandinavia. International mailing competition in Scandinavia was further increased when “International mailing has become a service like any other where efficiency and excellence in quality are key to competition. With the new organization of Swiss Post International Scandinavia, we are well positioned to compete with the merged Danish/Swedish Post on international mailing” ended Thomas Sjölin. www.swisspost.se www.swisspost.dk www.swisspost.com Advertorial
Scanorama september nr 9 Frecnh resistance
Words by MICHAEL DEE Photographs by JEFFERY RICHT LONDON, ENGLAND The French House on Dean Street in the heart of Soho is not your average pub. But then again its punters are anything but ordinary. One of the last bastions of bohemia shows no signs of trading in its half pints and pastis for blander fare 50 SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 Words by MICHAEL DEE Photographs by JEFFERY RICHT LONDON, ENGLAND The French House on Dean Street in the heart of Soho is not your average pub. But then again its punters are anything but ordinary. One of the last bastions of bohemia shows no signs of trading in its half pints and pastis for blander fare 50 SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 51 SCANORAMA SEPTE
MBER 2009 u 51
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 52
52 THE FRENCH HOUSE IS NOT YOUR SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 52 THE FRENCH HOUSE IS NOT YOUR SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 53 Left: The walls o
f the French are just as crowded as the bar itself, with photographs and drawings of well-known regulars SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 u 53 Left: The walls of the French are just as crowded as the bar itself, with photographs and drawings of well-known regulars SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 u 53
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 54
THE REST OF SOHO HAS CHANGED TOO. ˆ THE FACT SHEET The French House Bar and Restaurant 49 Dean Street, Soho, London. Tel: 44 20 7437 2799/2477. www. frenchhousesolo.com 54 SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 THE REST OF SOHO HAS CHANGED TOO. ˆ THE FACT SHEET The French House Bar and Restaurant 49 Dean Street, Soho, London. Tel: 44 20 7437 2799/2477. www. frenchhousesolo.com 54 SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 55
WITH THE EXCEPTION OF BACON AND FREUD SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 55 ˆ Far left and below: The upstairs restaurant serves bistro-style food. Above right: More blasts from the past
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 56 ADVERTISEMENT INT
ERNATIONAL RELEASE Announcing `El Gordo´—the world’s richest lottery to be held this December. €2,300,000,000.00 TICKETS AVAILABLE NOW! OVER €2.3 BILLION IN PRIZES TO BE WON DRAW DATE: December 22nd, 2009 ODDS TO WIN A PRIZE: 1 in 6.37 DRAW LOCATION: Madrid, Spain PRIZE PAYOUT RATIO: 70% of money from ticket sales is returned as prizes TICKET AVAILABILITY: Limited TAX STATUS: 100% Spanish tax-free European Lottery Guild announces the release of `El Gordo´ lottery tickets to international players. This is the famous Christmas draw of the Spanish Lotería Nacional. Ticket availability is limited—early response will ensure the chance to participate in this massive prize event. Draw features: • Ranking: the world’s only multi-billion-euro draw • Major prizes: 195 first prizes / 195 second prizes / 195 third prizes • Total number of prizes available: more than 2.6 million • Unique winning benefit: win up to 7 times on a single ticket • Total prize pool: over €2.3 Billion Order Your Tickets Now Through European Lottery Guild As the world’s largest and most respected lottery agency, European Lottery Guild specialises in bringing Europe’s most prestigious lottery games to players around the globe. Through our worldwide ticket services, you may now ensure your entry in this year’s `El Gordo´ draw. Only 85,000 ticket numbers are printed per series, and they have a unique structure. Each full ticket is divided into ten sections known as “decimas”. You may purchase individual decimas or a complete set of ten. (The latter option is more expensive, but can result in a prize that’s ten times bigger.) All-inclusive Service: 1. We purchase tickets on your behalf directly from official Spanish lottery outlets and register your ticket numbers by computer. 2. You will receive a detailed Confirmation of your entry showing the official `El Gordo´ ticket numbers assigned to you. 3. After the draw, your prizes will be automatically calculated and you’ll receive a Final Statement showing your total winnings. 4. A complete list of official winning numbers and prize amounts will also be included so you have a record of the draw results. Please note there are no Spanish taxes or deductions of any kind. Your winnings are guaranteed to be awarded to you in full. Over 787,000 players have already won prizes with European Lottery Guild. Act now for your opportunity to take part in the unprecendented multi-billion-euro `El Gordo´ draw! Complete and return the Ticket Reservation Form at right. From most European CountriesFreephone: INT’L 800 2787 7872. From elsewhere, telephone: INT’L 1 604 675-2704. Visit our website at www.europeanlotteryguild.com Contact European Lottery Guild at: Priority Processing Centre, Postbus 74101, 1070 BC Amsterdam, THE NETHERLANDS ADVERTISEMENT INTERNATIONAL RELEASE Announcing `El Gordo´—the world’s richest lottery to be held this December. €2,300,000,000.00 TICKETS AVAILABLE NOW! OVER €2.3 BILLION IN PRIZES TO BE WON DRAW DATE: December 22nd, 2009 ODDS TO WIN A PRIZE: 1 in 6.37 DRAW LOCATION: Madrid, Spain PRIZE PAYOUT RATIO: 70% of money from ticket sales is returned as prizes TICKET AVAILABILITY: Limited TAX STATUS: 100% Spanish tax-free European Lottery Guild announces the release of `El Gordo´ lottery tickets to international players. This is the famous Christmas draw of the Spanish Lotería Nacional. Ticket availability is limited—early response will ensure the chance to participate in this massive prize event. Draw features: • Ranking: the world’s only multi-billion-euro draw • Major prizes: 195 first prizes / 195 second prizes / 195 third prizes • Total number of prizes available: more than 2.6 million • Unique winning benefit: win up to 7 times on a single ticket • Total prize pool: over €2.3 Billion Order Your Tickets Now Through European Lottery Guild As the world’s largest and most respected lottery agency, European Lottery Guild specialises in bringing Europe’s most prestigious lottery games to players around the globe. Through our worldwide ticket services, you may now ensure your entry in this year’s `El Gordo´ draw. Only 85,000 ticket numbers are printed per series, and they have a unique structure. Each full ticket is divided into ten sections known as “decimas”. You may purchase individual decimas or a complete set of ten. (The latter option is more expensive, but can result in a prize that’s ten times bigger.) All-inclusive Service: 1. We purchase tickets on your behalf directly from official Spanish lottery outlets and register your ticket numbers by computer. 2. You will receive a detailed Confirmation of your entry showing the official `El Gordo´ ticket numbers assigned to you. 3. After the draw, your prizes will be automatically calculated and you’ll receive a Final Statement showing your total winnings. 4. A complete list of official winning numbers and prize amounts will also be included so you have a record of the draw results. Please note there are no Spanish taxes or deductions of any kind. Your winnings are guaranteed to be awarded to you in full. Over 787,000 players have already won prizes with European Lottery Guild. Act now for your opportunity to take part in the unprecendented multi-billion-euro `El Gordo´ draw! Complete and return the Ticket Reservation Form at right. From most European CountriesFreephone: INT’L 800 2787 7872. From elsewhere, telephone: INT’L 1 604 675-2704. Visit our website at www.europeanlotteryguild.com Contact European Lottery Guild at: Priority Processing Centre, Postbus 74101, 1070 BC Amsterdam, THE NETHERLANDS
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 57 ADVERTISEMENT You
are invited to participate in `El Gordo´—the giant Christmas draw of the Spanish Lotería Nacional. This is the biggest and most anticipated lottery of the year. €2,300,000,000.00 2,300,000,000.00 Total prizes of over DRAW SPECIFICATIONS: DRAW DATE: December 22nd, 2009 DRAW LOCATION: Madrid, Spain TICKET AVAILABILITY: Limited ODDS TO WIN A PRIZE: 1 in 6.37 PRIZE PAYOUT RATIO: 70% of money from ticket sales is returned as prizes TAX STATUS: 100% Spanish tax-free For complete conditions of entry, write to the address stated herein and quote reference EGH/EGO. E.&O.E. PRIZE SUMMARY FOR 2009 €585,000,000.00 €195,000,000.00 €97,500,000.00 €1,443,000,000.00 €2,300,000,000.00 FIRST-PLACE PRIZE POOL SECOND-PLACE PRIZE POOL THIRD-PLACE PRIZE POOL SUBSIDIARY PRIZE POOL TOTAL PRIZE POOL WORTH OVER ENTRY GUARANTEE European Lottery Guild hereby guarantees that you will receive confirmation of your official entry and ticket numbers. For your security, your tickets are guaranteed to be held in a locked vault in Madrid, Spain. Furthermore, you will receive a Final Statement and a complete list of the winning numbers after the draw. Full payment of your prize money is 100% assured. AUTHORISED SIGNATURE Entry fee is all-inclusive. No further payment is required by European Lottery Guild if you win a prize. We advise readers against dealing with any company that may request additional payment to cover charges related to winning a lottery. Reserve your `El Gordo´ tickets now. Quantities are limited, so complete the Ticket Reservation Form below immediately to ensure eligibility. YES, I wish to enter the giant `El Gordo´ draw of the famous Spanish Lotería Nacional on December 22nd, 2009, with a chance to participate in over €2.3 Billion in prize money. Please reserve the following tickets for me: (tick one box below) < 5604 1271 > TICKET DECIMA* €40 1/2 < 5604 1271 > TICKET DECIMAS €160 2 < 5604 1271 > TICKET DECIMAS €400 5 ALL PRICES ARE IN EUROS * Tickets are printed in sets of 10. Each ticket you order is one decima, which is 1/10 of a total set. A half ticket is 1/20 of a total set. **A full ticket has 10 decimas all with the same number, so winners receive 10 times more money than with a single ticket. ©2009 EAD-207N 8 EGB A20 EEUR 003 RETURN THIS FORM TO: Priority Processing Centre, Postbus 74101 1070 BC Amsterdam, THE NETHERLANDS < 5604 1271 > TICKET DECIMA* €80 1 < 5604 1271 > TICKET DECIMAS €240 3 < 5604 1271 > FULL TICKET**[COMPLETE SET OF 10 DECIMAS] €800 Prizes are quoted in Euros. Entry fee includes postage, handling and agents’ charges. Valid only where legal. Not valid for residents of the Netherlands, Spain, U.S.A. or Liechtenstein. E.&O.E. European Lottery Guild ▼ `EL GORDO´ TICKET RESERVATION FORM ▼ PRINT IN BLOCK CAPITALS PLEASE` Mr/Mrs Ms/Miss _____________ FIRST NAME EGH/EGO M9I001 ____________ _______________________________ SURNAME Address ________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ____________________ City ________________________________ Postcode ___________________ Country ________________________________________________________ Telephone ( ______ ) ______________________________________________ Cellular/Mobile ( ______ ) ________________ Fax ( ______ ) ______________ Email __________________________________________________________ FOR NOTIFICATION OF WINNINGS PAYMENT BY: (tick one box) □ Personal Cheque/Bank Draft in Euros (must be payable to “ELG Services”) □ Visa □ Visa Electron □ Eurocard □ MasterCard □ JCB Card Number CVV Number (required to process your order) This number appears in the signature panel on the back of the card. It is the last 3 digits AFTER the credit card number. Card Expiry Date MM Y Y Signature Date of Birth ____ /____ /____ (You must be 18 years or older) DAY MONTH ______________________________ YEAR If you do not wish to receive information and offers from other organisations carefully selected by European Lottery Guild, please let us know. URGENT DEADLINE: ENTRY MUST BE RECEIVED BY DECEMBER 15th, 2009. After this date, please call or fax to confirm ticket availability. FOR FASTER ENTRY USING YOUR CREDIT CARD: From most European countries, orders may be FAXED FREE to: INT’L + 800 2878 9878 or call FREEPHONE: INT’L + 800 2787 7872. From elsewhere, orders may be FAXED to: INT’L + 1 604 675-2708 or telephone: INT’L + 1 604 675-2704. _______________ ▼ ▼ ▼ RETURN THIS PORTION ▼ ▼ ▼ ▼ ▼ ▼ KEEP THIS PORTION ▼ ▼ ▼ ▲ RETURN THIS PORTION ▲ ▲ RETURN THIS PORTION ▲ ▲ RETURN THIS PORTION ▲ ▲ RETURN THIS PORTION ▲ ▲ KEEP THIS PORTION ▲ ▲ KEEP THIS PORTION ▲ ▲ KEEP THIS PORTION ▲
Scanorama september nr 9 Perfect 10: Cap de Begur
beaches, great hotels – Cap de Begur, just north of Barcelona, is undoubtedly the most alluring of the Costa Brava’s many treasures Words and photos by RIKARD LIND A breathtaking landscape, superb seafood, a string of beautiful beaches, great hotels – Cap de Begur, just north of Barcelona, is undoubtedly the most alluring of the Costa Brava’s many treasures Words and photos by RIKARD LIND A breathtaking landscape, superb seafood, a string of beautiful
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 59 Llafranc is a pop
ular destination for divers Sunset dinner SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 Platja Sa Tuna, Begur, Girona. Tel: +34 972 62 41 82. www.hostalsatuna.com The beach u 59
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 60 On the road to Mo
nells The pine-covered cliffs of Tamariu Good food, great company Beach life in Llafranc El Roura Blanch By the ocean in Fornells Michelin on a budget Calle Pi i Ralló, 10, Begur, Girona. Tel: 34 972 62 23 91. www.fondacaner.com 60 Road with a view Room with a view Platja de Fornells, Begur, Girona. Tel: 34 972 62 20 58. www.aiguablava.com Catch of the day Calle Bonaventura Carreras, 7, Begur, Girona. Tel: 34 972 62 21 72. A warmwelcome SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 u On the road to Monells The pine-covered cliffs of Tamariu Good food, great company Beach life in Llafranc El Roura Blanch By the ocean in Fornells Michelin on a budget Calle Pi i Ralló, 10, Begur, Girona. Tel: 34 972 62 23 91. www.fondacaner.com 60 Road with a view Room with a view Platja de Fornells, Begur, Girona. Tel: 34 972 62 20 58. www.aiguablava.com Catch of the day Calle Bonaventura Carreras, 7, Begur, Girona. Tel: 34 972 62 21 72. A warmwelcome SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 u
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 61 FROM Hard Rock TO
Diesel Higher yield, better quality and lower energy consumption are the benefits from efficient production automation. Since Earth’s resources are limited, these benefits have a significant impact on how long the global resources will last. Boosting production and efficiency requires complex and multi-discipline projects. With our exhaustive project experience, financial strength and flexible organization, we take full responsibility—not only for control systems, but also for electrical and mechanical installations and infrastructure. Midroc Automation successfully executes complex industrial projects, spanning from expert consulting to over 200,000 man hours in engineering. With the best engineers and state-of-theart engineering tools, we design the optimal solution for your business strategy. Our highly refined project management model ensures project coordination, cost control and a single point of contact, which allow you to focus on your core business while we focus on ours. In short, we offer a “one stop shop” for increasing your competitiveness. And for making planet Earth last longer. From mining to refining, from hard rock to diesel SAVING Resources
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 62 Sa Riera beach on
the road between Pals and Calella de Palafrugell St Miquel, 2, Begur, Girona. Tel: 34 972 62 29 05. www.aiguaclara.com Dive into it Placa dels Pins, 3, Llafranc, Girona. Tel: 34 972 30 24 26. www.tritonllafranc.com Lunc h escape El Roura Blanch. Plaça Jaume I, 3, Monells, Girona. Tel: 34 972 63 07 70. World of its own Platja de Fornells, Begur, Girona. Tel: 34 972 62 20 58. www.aigua - blava.com SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 Sa Riera beach on the road between Pals and Calella de Palafrugell St Miquel, 2, Begur, Girona. Tel: 34 972 62 29 05. www.aiguaclara.com Dive into it Placa dels Pins, 3, Llafranc, Girona. Tel: 34 972 30 24 26. www.tritonllafranc.com Lunc h escape El Roura Blanch. Plaça Jaume I, 3, Monells, Girona. Tel: 34 972 63 07 70. World of its own Platja de Fornells, Begur, Girona. Tel: 34 972 62 20 58. www.aigua - blava.com SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 63
Scanorama september nr 9 The bistro bites back
Words by EMMA WARG Photographs by LOUISE ENHÖRNING Words by EMMA WARG Photographs by LOUISE ENHÖRNING
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 65 A long overdue
revolution is sweeping Paris’s restaurant scene. We show you how to eat like a king without being held to ransom. Vive le bistronomique! SCANORAMA SEPTEMBER 2009 ˆ BISTRONOMIQUE FAVORITES IN PARIS Le Chateaubriand 129, avenue Parmentier, 11th arrondissement. Tel: +33 1 43 57 45 95 Chez Michel 10, rue de Belzunce, 10th arrondissement. Tel: +33 1 44 53 06 20 La Régalade 49, avenue Jean Moulin, 14th arrondissement. Tel: +33 1 45 45 68 58 Spring 28, rue de la Tour d‘Auvergne, 9th arrondissement. Tel: +33 1 45 96 05 72. www.springparis.fr L’Epi Dupin 11, rue Dupin, 6th arrondissement. Tel: +33 1 42 22 64 56. www.epidupin.com Ribouldingue 10, rue Saint Julien le Pauvre, 5th arrondissement. Tel: +33 1 46 33 98 80 65
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 66
“THE FIVE-COURSE SET MENU Le Chateaubriand is revitalizing the Parisian bistro with gourmet food at affordable prices Read more in Arthur Deevs’ book Les Bistronomiques: 60 Chefs, 60 Restaurants et 180 Recettes (Minerva). Robin, Front Offi ce Manager Julie, Fitness Receptionist Feel at home in Copenhagen Lis, Conference Manager Maria, Sales & Marketing Manager Christine & José, Café Supervisors Vivi, Managing Director Hotel Apartments in Copenhagen Hotel Apartments | Conference Hall | Health Club | Café Why settle for a small hotel room when you can have a spacious flat with the added benefits of free Internet, central location & superior service? Charlottehaven is a comfortable and homely alternative to a regular hotel with a wide range of facilities at reasonable prices. Try our fully serviced apartments next time you are in Copenhagen and enjoy our tranquil atmosphere. Hjørringgade 12C | DK-2100 Copenhagen Ø | Tel: 45 3527 1500 | info@charlottehaven.com | www.charlottehaven.com Please contact the sales department for reservation at tel. ( 45) 3527 1517. See the apartments and our other facilities such as Health Club, Café and Conference Hall at: www. charlottehaven.com – Welcome Home! “THE FIVE-COURSE SET MENU Le Chateaubriand is revitalizing the Parisian bistro with gourmet food at affordable prices Read more in Arthur Deevs’ book Les Bistronomiques: 60 Chefs, 60 Restaurants et 180 Recettes (Minerva). Robin, Front Offi ce Manager Julie, Fitness Receptionist Feel at home in Copenhagen Lis, Conference Manager Maria, Sales & Marketing Manager Christine & José, Café Supervisors Vivi, Managing Director Hotel Apartments in Copenhagen Hotel Apartments | Conference Hall | Health Club | Café Why settle for a small hotel room when you can have a spacious flat with the added benefits of free Internet, central location & superior service? Charlottehaven is a comfortable and homely alternative to a regular hotel with a wide range of facilities at reasonable prices. Try our fully serviced apartments next time you are in Copenhagen and enjoy our tranquil atmosphere. Hjørringgade 12C | DK-2100 Copenhagen Ø | Tel: 45 3527 1500 | info@charlottehaven.com | www.charlottehaven.com Please contact the sales department for reservation at tel. ( 45) 3527 1517. See the apartments and our other facilities such as Health Club, Café and Conference Hall at: www. charlottehaven.com – Welcome Home!
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 67 Elwood coat www.d
idriksons.com Elwood is a breathable and waterproof coat, long enough to cover a jacket. Sizes: S-XXXL. Colours: black, dark green and khaki tomsbyro.se
Scanorama september nr 9 Wish you were here WISH Y
OU WERE HERE WADI RUM, JORDAN, 5.10PM: Jeffery Richt, contributing photographer WISH YOU WERE HERE WADI RUM, JORDAN, 5.10PM: Jeffery Richt, contributing photographer
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 69 Some art forms ar
e highly undervalued* * Striving to deliver the best possible returns for investors is an art form. At SKAGEN Funds we have refi ned our technique over many years and constantly seek investments that are undervalued, under-researched and unpopular since these give the best potential for price gains – just like paintings from an undiscovered artist. Our portfolio managers trust their own analysis and take all nuances into consideration. The results are worth framing. SKAGEN Funds is an independent, partner-owned fund management company that has delivered excellent risk-adjusted returns since its inception in 1993. SKAGEN has NOK 74.7 bn (EUR 8.5 bn) under management and offers both fixed income funds and the equity funds SKAGEN Vekst, SKAGEN Global and SKAGEN Kon-Tiki. SKAGEN has 135 employees, is headquartered in Stavanger, Norway, and has offi ces in Oslo, Bergen, Trondheim, Ålesund, Tønsberg, Copenhagen, Stockholm and Gothenburg. It also has approval to market its funds in Finland, Luxembourg, Iceland, the United Kingdom and the Netherlands. Find more information on www.skagenfunds.com The graph shows historical returns for SKAGEN Global compared with the MSCIWorld Index during the period from07.08.1997 to 30.06.2009. Historical returns are no guarantee for future returns. Future returns will depend, inter alia, onmarket developments, the fund manager’s skill, the fund’s risk profi le and management fees. The return may become negative as a result of negative price developments. The art of common sense Melvær&Lien The Idea Entrepreneur
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 70 www.shamballajewe
ls.com White G/VS Diamonds Total CT 5,40 18K Gold Balls 0,5 CT Gvs Diamond Ruby Sapphire Tsavorite Black Diamond “Be a part of creating your own Shamballa bracelet” Shamballa Jewels aspires to create jewels of the highest quality, jewels that trigger curiosity and inspire to conversation, jewels that will be passed on for generations. Visit our flagship store in the heart of Copenhagen Shamballa Jewels | Grønnegade 36 | 1107 Copenhagen | 45 33 36 59 59 www.shamballajewels.com White G/VS Diamonds Total CT 5,40 18K Gold Balls 0,5 CT Gvs Diamond Ruby Sapphire Tsavorite Black Diamond “Be a part of creating your own Shamballa bracelet” Shamballa Jewels aspires to create jewels of the highest quality, jewels that trigger curiosity and inspire to conversation, jewels that will be passed on for generations. Visit our flagship store in the heart of Copenhagen Shamballa Jewels | Grønnegade 36 | 1107 Copenhagen | 45 33 36 59 59
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 71 SCANORAMA INTERNA
TIONAL ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES: INTERNATIONAL SALES DIRECTOR Anita Wollroth anita.wollroth@dgmediasales.se Tel: +46 8 797 03 47, Fax: +46 8 797 53 15 AUSTRALIA: AGS Media Tel: +61 8 8371 5800, david@agsmedia.com.au BELGIUM/NETHERLANDS: Media Partners Tel: +31 20 547 35 57, marjan.van.hal@mediapartners.nl CANADA: Media Contacts Internat Tel: +1 905 845 8300, tompeters@busexec.com CROATIA: KG MEDIA d.o.o. Tel: +385 52 427 046, info@kg-media.at FINLAND: Suomen Business Viestintä Tel: +358 9 3481 5533, kimmo.sallinen@sbv.fi FRANCE: I.M.M. France Tel: +33 1 40 13 79 03, v.aarab@imm-france.com GERMANY/AUSTRIA: I.M.M. Germany Tel: +49 40 411 150 70, enaber@t-online.de GREAT BRITAIN: Spafax Inflight Media Tel: +44 20 7906 2001, nhopkins@spafax.com GREECE: Publicitas Hellas Ltd Tel: +30 211 1060 300, hara.koutelou@publicitas.gr HONG KONG: Emphasis Media Ltd Tel: +852 2516 1029, awai@emphasis.net ICELAND: Heimur hf. Tel: +354 512 7536, otto.schopka@heimur.is INDIA: Media Star Tel: +91 22 22815538/39, ravi@mediastar.co.in IRELAND: Harmonia Ltd Tel: +353 1 240 53 22, dboyle@harmonia.ie ITALY: I.M.M. Italia Tel: +39 02 3653 4433, lucia.colucci@fastwebnet.it KOREA: DooBee Inc Tel: +82 2 3702 1740, dbi@doobee.com LATVIA/ESTONIA/LITHUANIA: Advertising Agency Santa Tel: +371 700 61 51, info@agency.santa.lv PORTUGAL: Publima Publicidade Tel: +351 21 315 81 61, publima@publima.pt SINGAPORE/MALAYSIA: SPH Magazines Pte Ltd Tel: +65 6319 6270, alicere@sph.com.sg SPAIN: GDM Tel: +34 91 536 55 07, mjesusr@gdm.es SWITZERLAND: Airpage AG Tel: +41 43 311 3000, furrer@airpage.ch TAIWAN: Lewis Int. Media Services Co Tel: +886 2 2707 5519, ky168@ms14.hinet.net THAILAND: Thai Representation Ltd Tel: +662 3319 690, thitiporn.p@sharmathailand.com UNITED ARAB EMIRATES: Intermedia Tel: + 971 4 342 2112, vdavidson@intermedia-gulf.com USA: AirGroup One Tel: + 1 212 244 5610, dbannister@airgroupone.com www.choice.no/show For reservation or information: choice.no | +47 22 00 57 00 PRODUCTION AND THE ENVIRONMENT: Scanorama is printed on Graphocote 65g – an FSC-marked paper – at an ISO 14001 certified printing house: Sörmlands Grafi ska Quebecor World, Katrineholm, Sweden. Prepress: done, Stockholm, Sweden. DG Communications maintains a continuous program for environmental improvement. | || | | FOLKETEATERET, OSLO
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 72
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Scanorama september nr 9 Page 73 SPECIAL ADVERTISI
NG SUPPLEMENT INTERNATIONAL LAW THE LAW OF LEANER TIMES In the wake of the global recession,things have changed for the world’s corporate law firms. The flood of mergers and acquisitions – the bread and butter of many firms during good times – is now down to a trickle,and bankruptcies, restructurings and commercial disputes dominate the legal landscape.Nordic lawyers are certainly feeling the pinch, but they are as indispensible as ever in the rush to become lean and mean. ➤
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 74
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 75 SPECIAL ADVERTISI
NG SUPPLEMENT INTERNATIONAL LAW Corporate wars As the recession continues to bite, legal disputes continue to soar.Deals are cancelled, contracts are broken and agreements written in good times are no longer valid. When corporate wars break out,the corporate lawyer is a good friend to have in the trenches. C laes Lundblad was recruited by Swedish-Finnish law firm Roschier in 2008 to develop the firm’s dispute resolution group.It was perfect timing.For since the economic crisis hit in the autumn of 2008, the number of commercial disputes has exploded. “We see several disputes right now over acquisitions that have gone sour,” says Lundblad. “New owners find that the company they bought may not be worth the amount originally agreed upon. The purchaser’s expectations are not always met and this may trigger the purchaser to carefully consider the means by which he can obtain a price reduction. On the financial side, loans fall due because the conditions of the loans are not kept,which often results in foreclosures and security enforcement. As recently reported in the media, there are several ways in which disputes may arise in such a context.” Jonas Wetterfors, a partner at Swedish firm Hellström & Partners, has witnessed the same development. “Disputes are rife in a recession,” he declares. “For instance, there might be guarantees in a purchase agreement that are no longer upheld, and then the other party will demand either a reduction of the purchase price or that the agreement is cancelled completely.” In Norway,too,law firms have seen a profound change in the nature of the services they provide.SaysPer Morten Christiansen,a banking and finance specialist with Steenstrup Stordrange, one of Norway’s largest domestic law firms: “Acouple of years ago we had lots of leveraged buyouts, real estate and shipping transactions and so on, but this was significantly reduced midway through last year. Instead, we now see a substantial increase in the number of defaults on those contracts which now have to be renegotiated because those same companies are simply unable to meet the terms of the covenants.” This year, Steenstrup Stordrange, with 110 lawyers in all major cities across the country, has reallocated resources to cope with the increased demand from companies in crisis. Having to renegotiate contracts due to acute financial difficulties is “Disputes are rife in a recession.” JONAS WETTERFORS, HELLSTRÖM & PARTNERS “not exactly fun” as Christiansen puts it, compared to the feel-good factor of helping new businesses develop and expand in good times. But it is still a necessary and important part of the job. Is the Norwegian state benevolent towards companies in trouble? “Providing a business can be restructured, the legal framework offers a good deal of flexibility as to which solutions may be applied,but if insolvency legislation is applicable,the rules are mandatory and limit the flexibility of the parties. “We have no Chapter 11 system here,as in the US,or an administration system as in the UK”, he continues. “Often, the only course open for these companies is liquidation, and as legal advisors,we have to try and explore every avenue to help the companies stay afloat.” The majority of commercial disputes are handled through arbitration rather than through state court proceedings.Arbitration is faster, confidential and flexible. Further, the parties have great freedom to shape the procedure as they see fit, either by agreeing on procedural ➤
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 76 How arbitration w
orks ● The claimant files a request for arbitration and appoints an arbitrator. ➤ issues in the arbitration agreement or by entering into agreements during the procedure. Since the parties normally appoint one arbitrator each, they ensure that the arbitrators have the appropriate qualifications in order to be able to reach a professional conclusion. When it comes to international disputes are nearly always solved by arbitration.According to the New York Convention on the Recognition and Enforcement of Foreign Arbitral Awards,an arbitral award is recognized and enforced in 140 countries worldwide, which is a clear advantage when entering into cross border business contracts. Arbitration is often handled in a country other than those of the parties, and for years Sweden, with its reputation for neutrality and impartiality, has been a popular location. This has provided a considerable amount of work for Swedish law firms, but the brunt of the arbitration work still comes from Swedish companies entering into disputes with foreign firms. “The handiwork – in other words, how you handle the arbitration in practice – does not differ verymuch,” saysLundblad. “It is far more important that the lawyer you choose to represent you is experienced in running commercial disputes rahter than that he or she has a deep knowledge of the applicable law in the particular case. That kind of expertise can be added to the extent required.” ■ ● The respondent answers the request for arbitration and appoints an arbitrator. ● The arbitrators (generally three, but can be more or less if previously agreed in the contract) must be impartial. In institutional arbitration, the arbitration institute normally appoints the third arbitrator, the chairperson. ● Once the arbitrators are appointed, the actual arbitration begins. The parties submit their respective statements of claim and statements of defence in writing. ● Ahearing will be arranged if requested by either party, or if the arbitral tribunal considers it appropriate. Before the hearing, at the request of the arbitral tribunal, the parties state the evidence on which they intend to rely. Most cases are decided after a hearing. ● In principle, an award is made no later than six months from the date when the case was first referred to the arbitral tribunal. That time frame, however, usually proves insufficient and a more realistic estimate would be 12-15 months. When made, arbitration awards are final, binding and enforceable. Sources: Jureka.net and sscinstitute.se FULL-SERVICE LAW FIRM; OFFICES IN ALL MAIN REGIONS OF NORWAY WWW.STEENSTRUP.NO OSLO TØNSBERG STAVANGER BERGEN TRONDHEIM TROMSØ How arbitration works ● The claimant files a request for arbitration and appoints an arbitrator. ➤ issues in the arbitration agreement or by entering into agreements during the procedure. Since the parties normally appoint one arbitrator each, they ensure that the arbitrators have the appropriate qualifications in order to be able to reach a professional conclusion. When it comes to international disputes are nearly always solved by arbitration.According to the New York Convention on the Recognition and Enforcement of Foreign Arbitral Awards,an arbitral award is recognized and enforced in 140 countries worldwide, which is a clear advantage when entering into cross border business contracts. Arbitration is often handled in a country other than those of the parties, and for years Sweden, with its reputation for neutrality and impartiality, has been a popular location. This has provided a considerable amount of work for Swedish law firms, but the brunt of the arbitration work still comes from Swedish companies entering into disputes with foreign firms. “The handiwork – in other words, how you handle the arbitration in practice – does not differ verymuch,” saysLundblad. “It is far more important that the lawyer you choose to represent you is experienced in running commercial disputes rahter than that he or she has a deep knowledge of the applicable law in the particular case. That kind of expertise can be added to the extent required.” ■ ● The respondent answers the request for arbitration and appoints an arbitrator. ● The arbitrators (generally three, but can be more or less if previously agreed in the contract) must be impartial. In institutional arbitration, the arbitration institute normally appoints the third arbitrator, the chairperson. ● Once the arbitrators are appointed, the actual arbitration begins. The parties submit their respective statements of claim and statements of defence in writing. ● Ahearing will be arranged if requested by either party, or if the arbitral tribunal considers it appropriate. Before the hearing, at the request of the arbitral tribunal, the parties state the evidence on which they intend to rely. Most cases are decided after a hearing. ● In principle, an award is made no later than six months from the date when the case was first referred to the arbitral tribunal. That time frame, however, usually proves insufficient and a more realistic estimate would be 12-15 months. When made, arbitration awards are final, binding and enforceable. Sources: Jureka.net and sscinstitute.se FULL-SERVICE LAW FIRM; OFFICES IN ALL MAIN REGIONS OF NORWAY WWW.STEENSTRUP.NO OSLO TØNSBERG STAVANGER BERGEN TRONDHEIM TROMSØ
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 77 SPECIAL ADVERTISI
NG SUPPLEMENT INTERNATIONAL LAW Legal side layof offs Restructurings, cutbacks, outsourcing and temporary employment. When recession strikes,companies are forced to downsize, dra matically increasing the flow of assignments for the employment law specialist. W inds of change have been blowing hard and fast through the front doors of Nordic law firms – and those who specialize in employment law are in great demand. “About a year ago we were mainly dealing with employment law in connection with due diligence,” says Magnus Wallander, one of 20 employment lawyers at Mannheimer Swartling of Sweden. “ This has now almost entirely been replaced by restructurings and terminations.” The figures tell their own story. In mid-2009, unemployment in Sweden was at 5 percent and climbing, while the number of young people out of work (29.7 percent) had more than doubled in one year. Despite continuing harmonization within the European Union, employment law is generally a local concern and the method of implementing the EU directives governing labor laws differs between the member states. The Swedish system, quite typical of the Nordic area, is based on negotiation and agreement between unions and employers’ organizations.For this reason, most employment lawyers have worked for this type of organization rather than for independent law firms.However, the landscape is slowly changing as more firms build up their expertise to meet the demands of the recession. “The majority of our clients are the Swedish units of international companies,” says Wallander. “In general they are not members of Swedish employers’ organizations and are not familiar with Swedish employment law.” Despite the service provided by the Swedish employers’ organisa- tions, many law firms have noted an increase in the volume of assignments coming from companies covered by collective wage agreements. Foreign companies and owners don’t always trust the parties operating on the Swedish labour market, but there can be other reasons too. “At times,the employers’ organizations are not able to offer all the services needed by the companies,while we are,” says Johan Karlman,employment lawyer at Hellström & Partners. “We work as strategic advisors to the HR function all through the process.” The Norwegians, on the other hand, seem to have fared somewhat better in the global turmoil, but unemployment is climbing here, too. According to the labour authority NAV, the average unemployment rate will rise to 3.1 per cent in 2009 and 4.2 percent in 2010.Considering that the forecast in February was only 2.7 per cent,this leap in such a short time is alarming. Jan L. Backer,who heads up Norwegian law firm Wikborg Rein’s department for employment law, says: “We are definitely busier now, mainly for two reasons;people have become much more aware of their legal rights and, as a result, companies are more careful and seek legal advice before they take action.” Despite the fact that it is only a short plane ride from Stockholm to Oslo, there are differences in the way employment law is practiced in the two countries. For instance, Backer says, while Sweden tends to practice the rule of seniority,Norway tends to put a little more emphasis on qualifications. “The individual’s rights are respected in Norwegian labor life as much as in Sweden, but from a legal perspective we tend to place a little more emphasis on qualifications. Whenever a company has to downsize there is always a risk that you lose competence so we often advise our clients to talk first to the people they really need to keep for the future. In our experience, the most competent people are usually the first ones to get new jobs,” he says. How long is employment law likely to remain in high demand among Nordic law firms? Backer is cautiously optimistic. “No-one knows when companies will start hiring again, but we can already see some indications that it is beginning to pick up speed.” ■
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 78
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 79 SPECIAL ADVERTISI
NG SUPPLEMENT INTERNATIONAL LAW On neutral ground The Arbitration Institute of the Stockholm Chamber of Commerce is one of the oldest arbitral institutions in the world. It is also one of the busiest. Every year, parties from some 30-40 countries convene in the Swedish capital to solve commercial disputes – a number that continually increases. is considered a just and upright country.” This explains, partially,why Stockholm has become one of the world’s most important seats of arbitration. Another reason for this is an agreement between the USA and the former Soviet Union, reached in 1977, stating that all commercial disputes between parties from the two superpowers should be resolved in Stockholm. “When trade between the US and the Soviet Union picked up in the 1970s, the countries wanted a neutral arena for any commercial disputes that might occur,” saysFranke,who has worked at the SCC since 1975 and has followed the institute’s development fromfour to five cases annually, to more than 100 today. “Adelegation from the two countries reviewed a number of insti- A tutes around the world before finally settling on Stockholm,” he recalls. “Sweden’s long history of neutrality was a decisive factor.” During the Soviet era, the number of cases tried was fairly small, as the country’s foreign trade was centralized to some 100 organizations. After the fall of communism, the number of cases has increased exponentially as companies from the former Soviet republics still prefer to come to Stockholm, as do the Chinese. “There is a rumor that there was a handbook for business leaders in China which said that you should insist three times that a dispute should be resolved in China before you could settle for Stockholm,” relates Franke, with a smile. “Naturally, you would rather that a dispute is solved in your own country and according to its own laws, but that really depends on the negotiating power of the parties involved. We handle most of the disputes involving a Chinese party taking place outside China,but 90 percent of all Chinese disputes are still settled in China.” SCC administers the arbitration as well as the financial aspects. A case begins when a claimant files a request for arbitration at SCC. The institute then makes sure an arbitral tribunal is appointed. This ccording to Ulf Franke, Secretary General at The Arbitration Institute of the Stockholm Chamber of Commerce (SCC), arbitration is “a business based on trust,and Sweden “This is a business based on trust,and Sweden is considered a just and upright country.” ULF FRANKE, SCC consists of three arbitrators – two appointed by the parties and a chairperson, who is appointed by SCC. The parties then file petitions, statements of claim and statements of defence. The parties are then summoned by the arbitral tribunal to a hearing. The result is either a settlement or an award. As opposed to dispute settlements in court, arbitration can never be contested. The parties can protest if they feel there has been a procedural error, but the final decision cannot be appealed or overturned. “This is why it is even more important that the parties consider the arbitration institute as neutral and fair,” concludes Franke. “Just and fair procedures are extremely important, and that’s why many companies elect to come to Stockholm.” EDITORIALPRODUCTION AND DESIGN: GREENWOOD COMMUNICATIONS AB FOR MORE INFORMATION ON SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENTS, PLEASE CALL THE SCANORAMA SALES DEPARTMENT, PHONE +46 709 97 03 40 ■
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 80 WHITE & CASE ADVE
RTORIAL White & Case,the New York-based international law firm,opened its Stockholm office in 1983. Since then,the company has handled countless assignments for Swedish and international clients and has its finger firmly on the pulse of the changing demand for high quality legal services. Ulf Johansson and Anna Sundberg:Heading up a smaller but highly skilled team dedicated to providing a professional, cost effective and personal service. ADAPTING TO CHANGE W hen it comes to global transactions, the Stockholm office of White & Case is clearly among the frontrunners.Supported by some 36 offices in 25 countries, the office also has a solid track record in providing a variety of legal services to capital market companies,the banking and finance sectors,as well as in the growing field of arbitration. The slowdown of 2008/9,sparked by the crisis in the global finance markets, has not left the office unaffected, but Executive Partner Ulf Johansson is not unduly concerned. “Like all of our colleagues in Sweden we have seen a major shift in recent times away from mergers and acquisitions towards the legal aspects of restructuring, contractual disputes,employment law and similar issues,”he explains. “We have been able to quickly adapt to ensure that we provide our clients with what they need,and that’s where our global network has been of great value. “However, I also believe that this situation will change again fairly “Our global network has been of great value.” ULF JOHANSSON, WHITE & CASE soon.In my view,the Nordic area has not been as badly affected by the recession as other regions of Europe and the economic downturn here appears to have bottomed out. In fact,we are already beginning to see some signs of an upturn.” Nevertheless, the office of White & Case, located on Biblioteksgatan,one of the most fashionable shopping streets in Stockholm,has been affected by the crisis. Both the volume and character of the assignments the firm now takes on have changed markedly. Anna Sundberg,Administrative Partner, points out that the firm previously enjoyed a constant stream of short term, high-tempo assignments, and prided itself on meeting its clients’ needs for highspeed services. “Everything had to be done lightening-fast,” she says, “but we are used to that and we’re good at it.Now, the pace is much slower, the assignments are spread out over longer periods of time and these days, clients are more cautious. They tend to bring in the legal advisors at a later stage than before, ostensibly to save costs, which is not always the best method. “In order to keep the processes as simple as possible, which is even more vital now, the team size is of importance. Our way of working with smaller and focused teams, means that each individual lawyer is able to get a complete overviewof the assignment and is able to take responsibility right from the start,”Anna says. So is the legal profession expecting a return to normality sometime soon, or has the demand for its services been changed for ever? White & Case, for one, is banking on getting back to normality – not to the extraordinary high of just a few years ago, but to pre-boom stability. It is a viewbased on more than a century of experience.Founded in 1901, it is certainly not the first time that the firm has had to adapt to change – and in all probability it will not be the last. ■ WHITE & CASE ADVERTORIAL White & Case,the New York-based international law firm,opened its Stockholm office in 1983. Since then,the company has handled countless assignments for Swedish and international clients and has its finger firmly on the pulse of the changing demand for high quality legal services. Ulf Johansson and Anna Sundberg:Heading up a smaller but highly skilled team dedicated to providing a professional, cost effective and personal service. ADAPTING TO CHANGE W hen it comes to global transactions, the Stockholm office of White & Case is clearly among the frontrunners.Supported by some 36 offices in 25 countries, the office also has a solid track record in providing a variety of legal services to capital market companies,the banking and finance sectors,as well as in the growing field of arbitration. The slowdown of 2008/9,sparked by the crisis in the global finance markets, has not left the office unaffected, but Executive Partner Ulf Johansson is not unduly concerned. “Like all of our colleagues in Sweden we have seen a major shift in recent times away from mergers and acquisitions towards the legal aspects of restructuring, contractual disputes,employment law and similar issues,”he explains. “We have been able to quickly adapt to ensure that we provide our clients with what they need,and that’s where our global network has been of great value. “However, I also believe that this situation will change again fairly “Our global network has been of great value.” ULF JOHANSSON, WHITE & CASE soon.In my view,the Nordic area has not been as badly affected by the recession as other regions of Europe and the economic downturn here appears to have bottomed out. In fact,we are already beginning to see some signs of an upturn.” Nevertheless, the office of White & Case, located on Biblioteksgatan,one of the most fashionable shopping streets in Stockholm,has been affected by the crisis. Both the volume and character of the assignments the firm now takes on have changed markedly. Anna Sundberg,Administrative Partner, points out that the firm previously enjoyed a constant stream of short term, high-tempo assignments, and prided itself on meeting its clients’ needs for highspeed services. “Everything had to be done lightening-fast,” she says, “but we are used to that and we’re good at it.Now, the pace is much slower, the assignments are spread out over longer periods of time and these days, clients are more cautious. They tend to bring in the legal advisors at a later stage than before, ostensibly to save costs, which is not always the best method. “In order to keep the processes as simple as possible, which is even more vital now, the team size is of importance. Our way of working with smaller and focused teams, means that each individual lawyer is able to get a complete overviewof the assignment and is able to take responsibility right from the start,”Anna says. So is the legal profession expecting a return to normality sometime soon, or has the demand for its services been changed for ever? White & Case, for one, is banking on getting back to normality – not to the extraordinary high of just a few years ago, but to pre-boom stability. It is a viewbased on more than a century of experience.Founded in 1901, it is certainly not the first time that the firm has had to adapt to change – and in all probability it will not be the last. ■
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 81 Recreation of a t
rue design treasure The internationally acclaimed Danish architect Arne Jacobsen originally designed these beautiful wall clocks for three remarkable buildings in Denmark. ROMAN for Aarhus City Hall (1942), CITY HALL for Rødovre City Hall (1956), BANKERS for National Bank of Denmark (1971). The unique timepieces have now been recreated in four sizes (Ø160, Ø210, Ø290, Ø480) and are completely faithful to the original drawings. Prices from EURO 195,-/DKK 1.295,- www.rosendahl.com
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 82
Scanorama september nr 9 Our world Our World The l
atest news from Scandinavian Airlines Full service SAS Tech prepares the planes for takeoff Page 8 Destination: Chicago Experience fall in the Windy City Page 6 Travel in comfort Business Sleeper makes your fl ight feel shorter Page 11 EuroBonus Traveler | SAS Timeline | News | SAS Fleet | Route Maps Our World The latest news from Scandinavian Airlines Full service SAS Tech prepares the planes for takeoff Page 8 Destination: Chicago Experience fall in the Windy City Page 6 Travel in comfort Business Sleeper makes your fl ight feel shorter Page 11 EuroBonus Traveler | SAS Timeline | News | SAS Fleet | Route Maps
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 84 002 | Scanorama |
September 2009 | SAS – Our World PHOTO OLA TORKELSSON/SCANPIX News Cheaper to fly more comfortably with SAS long-haul SAS is the first European airline to offer all passengers the chance to purchase an upgrade toa more comfortable class on intercontinental flights. Airlines have traditionally offered upgrades for points; for example, through frequent flyer programs such as SAS EuroBonus. Now all passengers can register to purchase an upgrade straight after booking if the journey takes place within seven months. If there are seats available in the newclass, the upgrade will be confirmed 24 hours before departure. The passenger also earns points in EuroBonus or another SAS partner program, according to the new, higher class. Because the offer depends on the Ricardo Gonzalez after his first SAS Masters victory. Huge golf party at Barsebäck This year’s SAS Masters was decided at the end of July at Barsebäck in southern Sweden. It was an Argentinean victory, with Ricardo Gonzalez playing dream golf on the final day of competition, winning by two stokes over Welshman Jamie Donaldson. The best Scandinavian was Denmark’s Jeppe Huldahl in third place. This year’s contest was a hit with the xxxxxxxxx public, with around 107,000 spectators watching the action. Around 40 percent of them were EuroBonus members, enjoying free entry and great golf. Many found their way to the popular VIP Pavilion in prime position by the 18th green. Entry to the pavilion had to be restricted during the final two days due to the enormous interest. On the Wednesday, the greatly appreci- ated SAS Masters ProAm teed off, with 17 handpicked EuroBonus members playing with the pros. Henrik Stenson and Søren Kjeldsen were among the world-class players enjoying a great day’s golf on the competition course with the EuroBonus members. A voice from this year’s SAS Masters ProAm Martin Hagedorn Tønnesen Works for Cat Group in Copenhagen. Gold member since 1996. Martin Hagedorn Tønnesen took along son Christoffer and surprised everyone by letting Christoffer, with his 21.7 handicap, take on Henrik Stenson while Martin caddied. The round with Stenson and his caddie Fanny Sunesson became an unforgettable golf memory and probably a brilliant start to Christoffer’s golf career. “The SAS Masters gives SAS a unique position in terms of its competitors. There are a lot of people interested in golf, and this sort of investment, which has a big audience, is so important when the economy is a bit tougher,” Martin says. availability of seats, and while there is also the opportunity to upgrade using EuroBonus points, there is no guarantee that an upgrade will always be available. If it is not, the entire sum is refunded. Upgrading from Economy to Econo- my Extra costs from USD 250, from Economy to Business from USD 700, and from Economy Extra to Business from USD 400. You can order your upgrade directon www.flysas.com or by logging into optiontown.com. 002 | Scanorama | September 2009 | SAS – Our World PHOTO OLA TORKELSSON/SCANPIX News Cheaper to fly more comfortably with SAS long-haul SAS is the first European airline to offer all passengers the chance to purchase an upgrade toa more comfortable class on intercontinental flights. Airlines have traditionally offered upgrades for points; for example, through frequent flyer programs such as SAS EuroBonus. Now all passengers can register to purchase an upgrade straight after booking if the journey takes place within seven months. If there are seats available in the newclass, the upgrade will be confirmed 24 hours before departure. The passenger also earns points in EuroBonus or another SAS partner program, according to the new, higher class. Because the offer depends on the Ricardo Gonzalez after his first SAS Masters victory. Huge golf party at Barsebäck This year’s SAS Masters was decided at the end of July at Barsebäck in southern Sweden. It was an Argentinean victory, with Ricardo Gonzalez playing dream golf on the final day of competition, winning by two stokes over Welshman Jamie Donaldson. The best Scandinavian was Denmark’s Jeppe Huldahl in third place. This year’s contest was a hit with the xxxxxxxxx public, with around 107,000 spectators watching the action. Around 40 percent of them were EuroBonus members, enjoying free entry and great golf. Many found their way to the popular VIP Pavilion in prime position by the 18th green. Entry to the pavilion had to be restricted during the final two days due to the enormous interest. On the Wednesday, the greatly appreci- ated SAS Masters ProAm teed off, with 17 handpicked EuroBonus members playing with the pros. Henrik Stenson and Søren Kjeldsen were among the world-class players enjoying a great day’s golf on the competition course with the EuroBonus members. A voice from this year’s SAS Masters ProAm Martin Hagedorn Tønnesen Works for Cat Group in Copenhagen. Gold member since 1996. Martin Hagedorn Tønnesen took along son Christoffer and surprised everyone by letting Christoffer, with his 21.7 handicap, take on Henrik Stenson while Martin caddied. The round with Stenson and his caddie Fanny Sunesson became an unforgettable golf memory and probably a brilliant start to Christoffer’s golf career. “The SAS Masters gives SAS a unique position in terms of its competitors. There are a lot of people interested in golf, and this sort of investment, which has a big audience, is so important when the economy is a bit tougher,” Martin says. availability of seats, and while there is also the opportunity to upgrade using EuroBonus points, there is no guarantee that an upgrade will always be available. If it is not, the entire sum is refunded. Upgrading from Economy to Econo- my Extra costs from USD 250, from Economy to Business from USD 700, and from Economy Extra to Business from USD 400. You can order your upgrade directon www.flysas.com or by logging into optiontown.com.
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 85 003 | Scanorama |
September 2009 | SAS – Our World Continental joining StarAlliance Flying start for SAS EuroBonus Shop Since its launch in June, the SAS EuroBonus Shop has been one of the year’s biggest sensations for EuroBonus members. It letsmembers use their EuroBonus points for products, donations and auctions. The new SAS EuroBonus Shop is part of SAS’s efforts to make the EuroBonus program even better and givemembers moreways to spend their points. For members who travel a lot and have too many points, the SAS EuroBonus Shop is a welcome way to use points for much more than bonus travel, hotels and rental cars. And it also is ideal for members whose points do not add up to bonus travel – there are many great products in the shop available for purchase. “Feedback about the shop has been amazingly positive. Just in the first week, it had close to 21,000 visitors, and the first auction, for an exclusive TV from Philips, got a top bid of 536,000 points, with 647 bids sent in. SAS EuroBonus Shop has got a great start and overall a fantastic response,” says Ingrid Mattison-Gilsdorf, head of the SAS EuroBonus Shop. The shop has a huge variety of items, with something for everyone. The popular Smartbox is one of the latest hits, with ready-to-go experience packages including golf, adventure, food and drink, and hotel stays. “Over the summer, we had around 600 items in the shop, but the selection has grown, and we are getting in new products all the time. The prices from now on will also include taxes (with some exceptions) and freight. As well as giving recommendations based on a member’s points balance, we will also have special offers aimed at the different membership levels within EuroBonus.” The shop is accessible for EuroBonus members, via the EuroBonus pages on the SAS website. Depending on which national page you use, the site will switch to the correct language (Swedish, Danish or Norwegian) and currency. You can shop using points or a combination of points and cash (by card), but you must use at least one point for every purchase. You can book bonus travel, hotel and rental cars, as usual, at the same address on the SAS website. Tip! If you use your EuroBonus MasterCard or EuroBonus Diners Club card in the SAS EuroBonus Shop, you will earn points on the cash part of the purchase – just as always. Product categories in the SAS EuroBonus Shop SAS & Travel Luggage, travel accessories, donations Home & Living: Interior design, garden, food, wine Style & Beauty Handbags, jewelry,watches, sunglasses Sports & Outdoors Cycling, camping, hiking, golf Electronics & Media Portable items, home entertainment, magazines Kids&Family Toys, games, reading Experiences& Fun Experiences, auctions My Page Segmentation, wish list Continental Airlines, the world’s fifth largest airline, is on its way to becoming a member of Star Alliance. The official entry is expected by the end of the year. For SAS, thismeans a strong newAmerican partner with a comprehensive route network to and from New York (Newark) that provides great connections within the United States but also to South America. Continental Airlines, together with Continental Express and Continental Connection, has more than 2,800 daily departures in the Americas, Europe and Asia, serving 135 US and 132 international destinations. Continental Airlines is celebrating its 75th anniversary this year. EuropeXpress extends inNorway EuropeXpress is the fastest and most reliable way of sending express shipments within Scandinavia. This is made possible through an extensive route network and a simplification of time-consuming processes and procedures. Now EuropeXpress extends the freight possibilities even further by allowing customers to send express shipments to an additional 27Widerøe destinations in Norway.
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 86 004 | Scanorama |
September 2009 | SAS – Our World News Successful baggage trial becomes permanent This past spring, a trial was arranged at Stockholm-Arlanda Airport so that passengers could check in baggage all the way from an international destination to a domestic Swedish one (except Skellefteå) without having to take their own baggage through customs. It was a success. “Customers have appreciated the simplicity and the service,” says Niclas Härenstam, head of media relations at SAS in Sweden. “The arrangements have now been made permanent.” In cooperation with the Swedish airports and customs authorities, SAS has successfully simplified the voyage for those changing flights at StockholmArlanda Airport. Passengers previously had to retrieve their baggage from the carousel in the international terminal, take it to the domestic terminal, and check in again. The service is available only for those flying with SAS. The old procedure applies for other airlines’ passengers. Goods that have to be declared, or animals in checked-in baggage, must be declared in advance as before. xxxxx Widerøe: 75years in theworld’s toughest airspace Norwegian airlineWiderøe is celebrating its 75th anniversary this year. The premier flight was done using a seaplane from Oslo in 1934. Thanks to Viggo Widerøe’s idea of a network of short landing strips across all of Norway and the legendary Twin Otter planes, Widerøe is today part of the SAS Group and an airline with international ambitions. Widerøe has 1,200 employees and bases in Oslo, Sandefjord, Bergen, Tromsø and Bodø, where it also has its headquarters. A Widerøe plane takes off every three minutes. The company has run a successful air business in the world’s toughest airspace – Norway’s fjords and mountains, in combination with coastal winds and the cold climate, make for a tough challenge – for 75 years. It is a perfect example of how you best fly in both head- and tailwinds. xxxxxx 004 | Scanorama | September 2009 | SAS – Our World News Successful baggage trial becomes permanent This past spring, a trial was arranged at Stockholm-Arlanda Airport so that passengers could check in baggage all the way from an international destination to a domestic Swedish one (except Skellefteå) without having to take their own baggage through customs. It was a success. “Customers have appreciated the simplicity and the service,” says Niclas Härenstam, head of media relations at SAS in Sweden. “The arrangements have now been made permanent.” In cooperation with the Swedish airports and customs authorities, SAS has successfully simplified the voyage for those changing flights at StockholmArlanda Airport. Passengers previously had to retrieve their baggage from the carousel in the international terminal, take it to the domestic terminal, and check in again. The service is available only for those flying with SAS. The old procedure applies for other airlines’ passengers. Goods that have to be declared, or animals in checked-in baggage, must be declared in advance as before. xxxxx Widerøe: 75years in theworld’s toughest airspace Norwegian airlineWiderøe is celebrating its 75th anniversary this year. The premier flight was done using a seaplane from Oslo in 1934. Thanks to Viggo Widerøe’s idea of a network of short landing strips across all of Norway and the legendary Twin Otter planes, Widerøe is today part of the SAS Group and an airline with international ambitions. Widerøe has 1,200 employees and bases in Oslo, Sandefjord, Bergen, Tromsø and Bodø, where it also has its headquarters. A Widerøe plane takes off every three minutes. The company has run a successful air business in the world’s toughest airspace – Norway’s fjords and mountains, in combination with coastal winds and the cold climate, make for a tough challenge – for 75 years. It is a perfect example of how you best fly in both head- and tailwinds. xxxxxx
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 87 Timeline Timetabl
es for the three Scandinavian airlines before the foundation of Scandinavian Airlines System. SAS put Scandinavia on the map SAS became the world’s fi rst multinational airline when the Norwegians, Danes and Swedes joined forces on August 1, 1946, and Scandinavian Airlines System was born. Discussions had started back in April 1937 between the national airlines DNL (Norway), DDL (Denmark) and ABA (Sweden). A letter of intent about pooled transatlantic traffic was signed at a meeting in Copenhagen on April 6, 1940. But three days later, Denmark and Norwaywere attacked by Germany during World War II, and the cooperation was postponed. The 1946 negotiations about the foundation of SAS were held at Skeppsredarens Hus in Oslo on July 31. Those taking partwere Per Kampmann from DNL, Thomas S. Falck from DDL and MarcusWallenberg from ABA. The Norwegians had the technology and the pilots, the Danes the international business network and the Swedes the capital. The talks went on late into the night, and it was not until 3am the next day that they were done and SAS was founded. The three hungrymen walked toward the Grand Hotel, realizing on the way that it would be diffi cult to find something to eat at that time of night. The hotel’s night porter eventually sacrifi ced his own sandwiches, of Norwegian brown cheese, which they all gratefully shared in the hotel reception. The SAS vision was clear from the very start: Scandinavia would be highlighted Xxxxxxxxx on the world map. At the time, there were 16million people living in the Scandinavian countries. Now their connections with the rest of the world would be ensured. The Scandinavian joint venture suited its times well, called appropriately by the American press “the United Nations of the air.” The first SAS poster from1946. BY DAN-MARCUS PETHRUS PHOTO SAMIR SOUDAH 005 | Scanorama | September 2009 | SAS – Our World
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 88 Destination: Chic
ago There are miles of parks and beaches in Chicago. Good to know Airport insider To get into town, follow the “train to city” signs, and ride the CTA to Chicago for $2.25 or take a cab for $35–$40 for a 30–45 minute ride. The food court in Concourse “C” has the best food and amenities for your dollar. If flights are delayed, walk underground to the adjoining O’Hare Hilton. The Andiamo café and fitness center are two places where you can relax there. Get around The “El” trains and subways are a breeze – routes are color-coded. Fares begin at $2, and you can savemoney with day passes and multiple trip options. Free seasonal city trolleys service some of the most popular museums, shopping destinations and at tractions. The best bargain is the $5 weekend pass for the commuter Metra train lines. Get connected There is freeWi-Fi at the Chicago Cultural Center, Daley Plaza and MillenniumPark, aswell as public libraries (the Harold Washington Library is in the loop area). Many popular coffeehouses, such as Starbucks and Panera Bread, offer free internet access, but most hotels charge a fee. SAS flies toChicago daily from Copenhagen and five times a week from Stockholm. City of change Steeped in rich history and culture yet in a constant state of renewal, Chicago isn’t afraid tomix things up. Chicago, once known for its stockyards and its mob connections, has worked hard over the past decade to upscale its world image. Now it celebrates its cultural and ethnic diversity. Built by immigrants, Chicago has become an international city in the heart of America. Just walk down Michigan Avenue, the favorite street, and you’ll see it and hear it firsthand. Chicago, however, is a city of neighborhoods that must be explored on foot to be truly appreciated. There is Greektown, Ukrainian Village and Chinatown, to name just a few. The inhabitants love their music (blues, soul, jazz and gospel), their magnificent skyline, and their equally magnificent shoreline. Knowing the fleeting nature of pleasant weather, they pursue al fresco dining and outdoor activities with a vengeance during the warmer months. Winter months or rain find them enjoying their favorite museum, taking in a play, sampling a new restaurant or shopping. Bargains abound for those with strong currencies compared to the dollar. Chicago has great architecture, new and old, incomparable shopping, fourstar dining, a world-class symphony, unparalleled museums, and miles of parks and beaches. And, of course, it has its sports teams: the Bears (football), the Cubs (baseball) and the White Sox (also baseball). Chicago pulses with energy and vibrancy. It is a city not tied to its past but to its future. Every week, a new boutique, celebrity haunt or restaurant opens. Neighborhoods are constantly evolving, and buildings keep going up. 006 | Scanorama | September 2009 | SAS – Our World Destination: Chicago There are miles of parks and beaches in Chicago. Good to know Airport insider To get into town, follow the “train to city” signs, and ride the CTA to Chicago for $2.25 or take a cab for $35–$40 for a 30–45 minute ride. The food court in Concourse “C” has the best food and amenities for your dollar. If flights are delayed, walk underground to the adjoining O’Hare Hilton. The Andiamo café and fitness center are two places where you can relax there. Get around The “El” trains and subways are a breeze – routes are color-coded. Fares begin at $2, and you can savemoney with day passes and multiple trip options. Free seasonal city trolleys service some of the most popular museums, shopping destinations and at tractions. The best bargain is the $5 weekend pass for the commuter Metra train lines. Get connected There is freeWi-Fi at the Chicago Cultural Center, Daley Plaza and MillenniumPark, aswell as public libraries (the Harold Washington Library is in the loop area). Many popular coffeehouses, such as Starbucks and Panera Bread, offer free internet access, but most hotels charge a fee. SAS flies toChicago daily from Copenhagen and five times a week from Stockholm. City of change Steeped in rich history and culture yet in a constant state of renewal, Chicago isn’t afraid tomix things up. Chicago, once known for its stockyards and its mob connections, has worked hard over the past decade to upscale its world image. Now it celebrates its cultural and ethnic diversity. Built by immigrants, Chicago has become an international city in the heart of America. Just walk down Michigan Avenue, the favorite street, and you’ll see it and hear it firsthand. Chicago, however, is a city of neighborhoods that must be explored on foot to be truly appreciated. There is Greektown, Ukrainian Village and Chinatown, to name just a few. The inhabitants love their music (blues, soul, jazz and gospel), their magnificent skyline, and their equally magnificent shoreline. Knowing the fleeting nature of pleasant weather, they pursue al fresco dining and outdoor activities with a vengeance during the warmer months. Winter months or rain find them enjoying their favorite museum, taking in a play, sampling a new restaurant or shopping. Bargains abound for those with strong currencies compared to the dollar. Chicago has great architecture, new and old, incomparable shopping, fourstar dining, a world-class symphony, unparalleled museums, and miles of parks and beaches. And, of course, it has its sports teams: the Bears (football), the Cubs (baseball) and the White Sox (also baseball). Chicago pulses with energy and vibrancy. It is a city not tied to its past but to its future. Every week, a new boutique, celebrity haunt or restaurant opens. Neighborhoods are constantly evolving, and buildings keep going up. 006 | Scanorama | September 2009 | SAS – Our World
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 89 Best of Chicago R
estaurants Best steak in town Chicago Chop House Formerly a stockyard town, Chicago is known for its beef. Housed ina quaint, cozy Victorian mansion, this favorite offers the best supersized prime steaks in town, along with gargantuan sides meant for sharing. The menu is complemented by an award-winning wine list with more than 500 selections from around the globe. 60WestOntario. Tel:+1 312 787 7100. Best power lunchSmith and Wollensky This masculine restaurant on the Chicago River is the ideal setting for talking shop with other movers and shakers while eating a great aged steak. 318North State Street. Tel:+1 312 670 9900. Local’s choice Cleo’s The interior is slightly off-putting with its lack of frills, but the food is good and inexpensive. An outdoor courtyard, daily specials and the best burgers around attract a diverse yet local crowd. 1935West Chicago Avenue. Tel:+1 312 243 5600. Macy’s. Power shopping Formerly Marshall Field’s, once a symbol of Chicago, Macy’s State Street has more than 400 departments aswell as domestic and Europe boutiques, including Thomas Pink, French Connection, Christopher Rado, and Sheridan of Australia. Another classic department store is nearby: Sears. Macy’s State Street. 111North State Street. Tel:+1 312 781 1000. Sears. 2North State Street. Tel:+1 312 373 6000. Bargain hunter Overstock and factory irregulars lure fans of the Seattle-based upscale department store Nordstrom to this haven for bargains. Brand-name apparel can be shockingly cheap; the shoes are particularly fun and well priced. Nordstrom Rack 24North State Street. Tel:+1 312 377 5500. Kids’ stuff Museumof Science and Industry More than 800 interactive exhibits delight kids of all ages. 57th Street and Lake Shore Drive. Tel:+1 773 684 1414. American Girl Place This doll emporium has a café, theater, tearoom and photo studio. 835 North Michigan Avenue. Tel:+1 877 247 5223. Lincoln Park Zoo This free zoo has special areas and activities for children. 2001 North Clark Street. Tel:+1 312 742 2000. Children’sMuseum Its three floors of interactive adventures are sure to delight toddlers and older children. 700 East Grand Avenue atNavy Pier. Tel:+1 312 527 1000. Hershey Store This venue takes the “kid in a candy store” experience to a whole new level. 822 North Michigan Avenue. Tel:+1 312 337 7711. Pops for Champagne. Nightlife Pops for Champagne This elegant live jazz club is located in the historic Tree Studios. 601North State Street. Tel:+1 312 266 7677. Goose Island Brewery What began as a humble brewpub is now a thriving enterprise. 1800 North Clybourn Avenue. Tel:+1 312 915 0071. Coq d’Or Sip hearty martinis, and savor the atmosphere of this Prohibition-era haven on the lower level of the venerable Drake Hotel. A piano player entertains most evenings. 140 East Walton. Tel:+1 312 787 2200. 10Pin Bowling Lounge This retro-sport/hip-upscale lounge attracts both locals and visitors. 330North State Street. Tel:+1 312 644 0300. Shopping Four things to take home 1. Jar of honey from City Hall’s rooftop bees. Chicago Pumping Station. 163 East Pearson. 2. Frango mints. Macy’s. 111North State Street. 3. Prairie-style stencils. Chicago Architecture Foundation. 224 South Michigan Avenue. 4. Cows on Parade in Chicago by Mary Ellen Sullivan. Fromany bookstore. Lincoln Park Zoo. The shop has a very cozy café/bar where you can rest your legs after some serious shopping. In the summer, you can sit outside and do some people-watching. In the winter, there is a great fireplace inside and an inviting atmosphere. Johanna Thordenberg, air steward Castaways Bar & Grill This is a wonderful, summer-only, laid-back lounging spot right on North Avenue Beach. 1603 North Lake Shore Drive. Tel:+1 773 281 1200. Crewtip Ralph Lauren 750 North Michigan Avenue Tel:+1 312 280 1655 007 | Scanorama | September 2009 | SAS – Our World
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 90 008 | Scanorama |
September 2009 | SAS – Our World BY DAN-MARCUS PETHRUS PHOTOS SAMIR SOUDAH Behind the Scenes Non-stop service Where do planes go at night? Come with us into SAS Tech’s hangars at Stockholm-Arlanda Airport, where the work maintaining SAS’s airplanes goes on 24 hours a day. There is plenty ofwork to do – some planes have 367,000 components. take off but rather pushes the plane forward,” he says. Per-Olov Ericsson is working on the front of the same engine, inspecting the fan blades. Explaining that the blades cannot have any dents or bumps, he crawls inside the engine. He is sitting there, and I amstanding just outside the engine that will soon be in operation again – and then it can suck up rainwater in a vortex from the ground even while idling. One sometimes feels small in the face of technology. Per-Olov Ericsson and Lennart Stenros in front of one of the engines. the exhaust fumes,” says Jan Söderberg with a smile. Söderberg is the supervisor for the “P check” of Sindre Viking, one of 26 Boeing 737-600s in the SAS fleet. The mosquito is not the only big fl yer in the SAS Tech hangar this morning. The Sindre Viking is there too. The power is turned off, but it is far from quiet. In every hatch, under the cabin fl oor, and on ladders all around the body of the plane, technicians are focused on their cables or bolts. Nothing is left unchecked. And there is a lot to check: today’s airplanes often have around 367,000 different components. SAS Tech, based east of the terminals at T Stockholm-Arlanda Airport, looks after all technical maintenance for SAS airplanes. “We usually say that an airplane is a col- lection of parts fl ying in close formation. You can replace every part in an airplane. One that is 20 years old can be like new after visiting us,” says BirgittaHögman, communications manager at SAS Tech. The company,a wholly owned SAS subsidiary, takes care of the maintenance, repair and overhaul (MRO) operations in he mosquitoes in the hangar are the biggest I have seen. They are gigantic. “It’s because they thrive off Stockholm, Oslo, Copenhagen and Tallinn. Its 2,000employees include aviation engineers, technicians and mechanics who put SAS Tech among the best in the world for aviation maintenance. Since 1946, SAS Tech (then called simply the Technical Division) has kept the SAS fl eet in top shape. Oil leak is fixed Hunched over behind the port engine, technician Lennart Stenros has just come back from a trip to the tarmac, where a plane was grounded by an oil leak from one engine. Stenros is a specialist in using a boroscope, a keyhole technology for examining and diagnosing engines. But he was able to identify the problem without looking inside: a washer needed replacing. He is now checking one of the forward engine mounts on Sindre Viking in the hangar. “This is the mounting that transfers the power from the motor up the pylon and the wing, and means the engine doesn’t Maintenance at top speed In the hangar, the plane’s personality shines through. It is not only that the planes are given names, such as Arnljot Viking, Hagbard Viking and Snorre Viking. With the mounting fl ying hours, they also develop their own character and charm. “When the planes finish fl ying for the day, they are always rolled into the hangar for the night. But it is far from peace and quiet for either the planes or the technicians. All night, the daily routine maintenance is being carried out at top speed to ensure the plane is ready for takeoff early the next day,” Högman says. The daily routine maintenance makes up a lot of SAS Tech’swork. The ramp group takes care of the most fundamental issues during the Maintenance Service Check when the plane is waiting at the gate. Changing a tire, for example, takes about 30 minutes. These are the technicians, in their yellow vests, who the passengers see through their windows. The P check that Sindre Viking is undergoing now is a medium-scale checkup in which the technicians go over the fuselage, looking for corrosion and checking the control lines for the directional control system. A D check is the most comprehensive check, carried out every “An airplane is a collection of parts fl ying in close formation. You can replace every part in an airplane. One that is 20 years old can be like newafter visiting us.” 008 | Scanorama | September 2009 | SAS – Our World BY DAN-MARCUS PETHRUS PHOTOS SAMIR SOUDAH Behind the Scenes Non-stop service Where do planes go at night? Come with us into SAS Tech’s hangars at Stockholm-Arlanda Airport, where the work maintaining SAS’s airplanes goes on 24 hours a day. There is plenty ofwork to do – some planes have 367,000 components. take off but rather pushes the plane forward,” he says. Per-Olov Ericsson is working on the front of the same engine, inspecting the fan blades. Explaining that the blades cannot have any dents or bumps, he crawls inside the engine. He is sitting there, and I amstanding just outside the engine that will soon be in operation again – and then it can suck up rainwater in a vortex from the ground even while idling. One sometimes feels small in the face of technology. Per-Olov Ericsson and Lennart Stenros in front of one of the engines. the exhaust fumes,” says Jan Söderberg with a smile. Söderberg is the supervisor for the “P check” of Sindre Viking, one of 26 Boeing 737-600s in the SAS fleet. The mosquito is not the only big fl yer in the SAS Tech hangar this morning. The Sindre Viking is there too. The power is turned off, but it is far from quiet. In every hatch, under the cabin fl oor, and on ladders all around the body of the plane, technicians are focused on their cables or bolts. Nothing is left unchecked. And there is a lot to check: today’s airplanes often have around 367,000 different components. SAS Tech, based east of the terminals at T Stockholm-Arlanda Airport, looks after all technical maintenance for SAS airplanes. “We usually say that an airplane is a col- lection of parts fl ying in close formation. You can replace every part in an airplane. One that is 20 years old can be like new after visiting us,” says BirgittaHögman, communications manager at SAS Tech. The company,a wholly owned SAS subsidiary, takes care of the maintenance, repair and overhaul (MRO) operations in he mosquitoes in the hangar are the biggest I have seen. They are gigantic. “It’s because they thrive off Stockholm, Oslo, Copenhagen and Tallinn. Its 2,000employees include aviation engineers, technicians and mechanics who put SAS Tech among the best in the world for aviation maintenance. Since 1946, SAS Tech (then called simply the Technical Division) has kept the SAS fl eet in top shape. Oil leak is fixed Hunched over behind the port engine, technician Lennart Stenros has just come back from a trip to the tarmac, where a plane was grounded by an oil leak from one engine. Stenros is a specialist in using a boroscope, a keyhole technology for examining and diagnosing engines. But he was able to identify the problem without looking inside: a washer needed replacing. He is now checking one of the forward engine mounts on Sindre Viking in the hangar. “This is the mounting that transfers the power from the motor up the pylon and the wing, and means the engine doesn’t Maintenance at top speed In the hangar, the plane’s personality shines through. It is not only that the planes are given names, such as Arnljot Viking, Hagbard Viking and Snorre Viking. With the mounting fl ying hours, they also develop their own character and charm. “When the planes finish fl ying for the day, they are always rolled into the hangar for the night. But it is far from peace and quiet for either the planes or the technicians. All night, the daily routine maintenance is being carried out at top speed to ensure the plane is ready for takeoff early the next day,” Högman says. The daily routine maintenance makes up a lot of SAS Tech’swork. The ramp group takes care of the most fundamental issues during the Maintenance Service Check when the plane is waiting at the gate. Changing a tire, for example, takes about 30 minutes. These are the technicians, in their yellow vests, who the passengers see through their windows. The P check that Sindre Viking is undergoing now is a medium-scale checkup in which the technicians go over the fuselage, looking for corrosion and checking the control lines for the directional control system. A D check is the most comprehensive check, carried out every “An airplane is a collection of parts fl ying in close formation. You can replace every part in an airplane. One that is 20 years old can be like newafter visiting us.”
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 91 Sindre Viking, a
Boeing 737-600, getsa P check. Christer Eriksson, IERA technician, takes care of the planes’ instruments. There are up to 367,000 different components in each plane.
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 92 Behind the Scenes
10th year. Then the plane is effectively pulled apart down to the smallest part, so only the exterior plating is in place. Some say the plane then is reminiscent of a giant thermos. Everything is checked (or double-checked, if it is a critical component) before the plane is put back together again. “When we are done, and the log book that shows what we have done on the plane is back in the cockpit again, the plane is airworthy. When the captain has gone through the log and the briefing card, the plane is ready for takeoff,” says Söderberg. We come into the cabin where half of the seats have been removed. Camilla Selin is busily screwing the floor back into place. “The central tank is under here. We have checked that the tank and the layer between it and the floor are in good shape,” she says. After completing her aviation technician training in Västerås, Selin earned her certificate for working on 737s in two months. She indicates about a meter to show how many files she had to read to get the certificate. Air safety regulations are extremely strict and go intomore detail than any other such framework. European Aviation Safety Agency (EASA) compiles the regulations for safety and environmental issues in Europe. Even if a plane on the ground costs a lot ofmoney every day, and delayed – or even canceled – flights are troublesome for passengers, everyone agrees how important it is to have extreme safety margins when it comes to air safety. Sindre Viking will have to stay a few more days in the hangar. When it rolls out onto the runway again, it will be in top shape, with new air under its wings. Facts: SAS Tech maintenance supplier of maintenance, repair and overhaul (MRO) services to the airline industry in the Nordic and Baltic countries. 737, MD-80 and CRJ900 aircraft aswell as customized services. SAS AB. brand within SAS Tech and is an approved Part 147 organization in accordance with EASA regulations. Another SAS plane is ready for takeoff. “When the log book is back in the cockpit again, the plane is airworthy. When the captain has gone through the log and the briefing card, it is ready for takeoff.” Camilla Selin has checked the central tank under the cabin floor. 010 | Scanorama | September 2009 | SAS – Our World Behind the Scenes 10th year. Then the plane is effectively pulled apart down to the smallest part, so only the exterior plating is in place. Some say the plane then is reminiscent of a giant thermos. Everything is checked (or double-checked, if it is a critical component) before the plane is put back together again. “When we are done, and the log book that shows what we have done on the plane is back in the cockpit again, the plane is airworthy. When the captain has gone through the log and the briefing card, the plane is ready for takeoff,” says Söderberg. We come into the cabin where half of the seats have been removed. Camilla Selin is busily screwing the floor back into place. “The central tank is under here. We have checked that the tank and the layer between it and the floor are in good shape,” she says. After completing her aviation technician training in Västerås, Selin earned her certificate for working on 737s in two months. She indicates about a meter to show how many files she had to read to get the certificate. Air safety regulations are extremely strict and go intomore detail than any other such framework. European Aviation Safety Agency (EASA) compiles the regulations for safety and environmental issues in Europe. Even if a plane on the ground costs a lot ofmoney every day, and delayed – or even canceled – flights are troublesome for passengers, everyone agrees how important it is to have extreme safety margins when it comes to air safety. Sindre Viking will have to stay a few more days in the hangar. When it rolls out onto the runway again, it will be in top shape, with new air under its wings. Facts: SAS Tech maintenance supplier of maintenance, repair and overhaul (MRO) services to the airline industry in the Nordic and Baltic countries. 737, MD-80 and CRJ900 aircraft aswell as customized services. SAS AB. brand within SAS Tech and is an approved Part 147 organization in accordance with EASA regulations. Another SAS plane is ready for takeoff. “When the log book is back in the cockpit again, the plane is airworthy. When the captain has gone through the log and the briefing card, it is ready for takeoff.” Camilla Selin has checked the central tank under the cabin floor. 010 | Scanorama | September 2009 | SAS – Our World
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 93 Q & A SAS has the
answers Got a question? Send it to us at questions@sas.se 1. I’m traveling from the United States and then on within Europe, and I have two separate bookings. How much baggage can I take with me? When traveling to and from the United States, you can take two pieces of luggage. Each bag can weigh 32kg or 23kg depending on the type of ticket you purchased. When traveling within Europe and to the rest of the world, you can take 20kg or 30kg of baggage depending on the ticket. We recommend that you read the terms and specifications that apply for the type of ticket you bought. 2. How can I ensure that my EuroBonus points are registered? The best thing you can do is to make certain that your EuroBonus number is registered when you book your ticket. This can be done through SAS or the travel agency where you bought your ticket. You can also register your points when checking in, either at a self-service kiosk or at the check-in counter. 3. Why isn’t online check-in available for all destinations? It is available for most current SAS destinations, but there are a few destinations (Germany, for example) where we cannot offer this service. For more information, visit www.flysas.com. 4. Which rules apply for liquids in cabin baggage? On November 6, 2006, new safety regulations were introduced that limit the amount of liquids passengers are allowed to take in their carry-on baggage. To find the latest information about the regulations, visit the website for the local aviation authority Mark your baggage with your name and address, and preferably an identifying feature that makes it easier to find on the baggage carousel. Make sure you are at the gate at least 20 minutes before departure. Bear inmind that there may be delays at the security checkpoint. Have your ticket and identification to hand so boarding can go smoothly. 5. Why are there different places for declaring your baggage? The rules for declaring baggage vary between countries and are set by the different national customs authorities. If you are unsure about where you should declare your baggage, ask a staff member at the airport or onboard. 6. I pre-booked a certain seat. Why was it changed? We always try to meet our customers’ wishes regarding particular seats, but sometimeswe have to rearrange seats, depending on factors such as a change in aircraft model, passengers with special needs, and security issues. 7.What should I do if I have special dietary requirements? On our intercontinental flights, we can always provide special dishes, including kosher, low-calorie or vegetarian options. When you travel on one of our other routes, you can order a special menu if you are traveling in Economy Extra on a flight lasting longer than one hour and 45 minutes, and in Business on a flight longer than one hour and 10 minutes. All you need to do is place your order at least 24 hours before the flight’s departure. 8.How many ways are there to check in? There are several different ways for SAS passengers to check in. Twenty-two hours before your flight departs, you can check in and select your seat on our website. You can also check in via text message (SMS) or on our mobile portal, which you access on your mobile phone. At the airport, you can either use our self-service kiosks or go to the check-in counter. For more information, visit www.flysas.com. How to contact CustomerRelations If you have a question for SAS, please contact us at questions@sas.se. If you would like to submit comments, compliments or complaints to SAS, please use the following link: www.flysas.com/feedback. The information below is provided as part of the Airlines Passenger Service commitment that has been implemented on a voluntary basis by European airlines. Denmark www.sas.dk/feedback Norway www.sas.no/feedback Sweden www.sas.se/feedback Other countries www.flysas.com/feedback 011 | Scanorama | September 2009 | SAS – Our World
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 94 EuroBonusTraveler
RobertStenram Age 67 EuroBonusmember since Before it started. FamilyWife Siv, three grown children in London, and three grandchildren. JobSemi-retired, boardmember, formerly deputy CEO at companies including Swedbank and an adviser on Swedbank’s board. Number of EuroBonus points Not sure exactly, but I was among the top 10 EuroBonus members a few years ago. Best airport Copenhagen. Favorite seatRow one by the window. You get disturbed less there. Latest EuroBonus trip A long weekend to London to see the children. GoodSAS service The lounges and Fast Track. “When I was on business, I always avoided working onboard. I have accidentally seen far too many confidential documents…” 012 | Scanorama | September 2009 | SAS – Our World EuroBonusTraveler RobertStenram Age 67 EuroBonusmember since Before it started. FamilyWife Siv, three grown children in London, and three grandchildren. JobSemi-retired, boardmember, formerly deputy CEO at companies including Swedbank and an adviser on Swedbank’s board. Number of EuroBonus points Not sure exactly, but I was among the top 10 EuroBonus members a few years ago. Best airport Copenhagen. Favorite seatRow one by the window. You get disturbed less there. Latest EuroBonus trip A long weekend to London to see the children. GoodSAS service The lounges and Fast Track. “When I was on business, I always avoided working onboard. I have accidentally seen far too many confidential documents…” 012 | Scanorama | September 2009 | SAS – Our World
Scanorama september nr 9 Page 95 A master’s in bus
iness travel RobertStenram was one of SAS’s most frequent flyers from 1975 to 2008. After spending asmany hours in the air as the pilots, he has a broad perspective on business travel. You were there at the start of EuroBonus? Yes, in fact even earlier. I got an RVC (Royal Viking Card) in 1979. I exchanged that for a EuroBonus Gold card in 1992. You are retired now. When did you fly themost? The entire time, from 1975 to 2008. I have been a banker all my life, and lived in New York for five years, in Asia for seven, and have had three stints living in London. So there has been a lot of time in the air. Sometime around 2000, I worked out I had close to 400 flying hours during one year. That is about as many hours as pilots had at that time. What are the biggest differences between being a frequent flyer in 1975 and in 2008? A lot has happened. In the 1970s, you stood in a line and waited for your handwritten boarding cards and baggage tags. The interiors of the planes have changed, and the noise level is much low er. The service in today’s Business class is very good. I often praise the cabin crew when I leave the plane. I think they need to hear what a good job they are doing. What do you miss about flying back in those days? Of course, it was a bit more glamorous to fly before. But I always get good service onboard. On my latest trip to London, the cabin crew recognized me, and that makes it a bit more personal. How do you usually book and check in? For simpler flights, I book on the SAS website, but for more complicated journeys with different airlines, I usually use a travel agency. When traveling for business, I check in as late as possible in order to be flexible with my departures. How do you keep yourself occupied onboard? I eat a little food, drink a glass of wine and then fall asleep. I have never had problems sleeping onboard. When I was on business, I always avoided working onboard. I have accidentally seen far too many confidential documents belonging tomy fellow passengers, so my own papers stay inmy briefcase. What about jet lag? Has it been as much of a pain all these years? Yes, you never get rid of it, regardless of whether you are flying east or west. Taking half a sleeping pill on the first night at your new destination is a good tip. These days, it can take four days to catch up. I used to be faster. Do you always take off your shoes during the flight? I take them off for intercontinental flights, but never on flights within Europe. They have to be on during takeoff and landing for safety reasons. Which airport has the best baggagehandling? It has to be Narita in Tokyo. You barely make it to the carousel before the bags start rolling out. They are very good in Singapore, too. Which SAS product do you particularly appreciate? I think the EuroBonus program was very good when it started and is very good today. It is well run and has evolved the whole time. We need SAS. The co