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GASTRO Double Take Space Jaru and Farouz Followin
g on from last month’s cover story detailing the timeless appeal of Francis Street and its colourful antiquarians I thought it might be nice to look at reasons to be cheerful for two more of the Liberties’ storied streets. The neighbourhood that I’ve called home (and other things) for almost two decades is not without its difficulties so it’s always a shot in the arm to have some positive stories to share. It’s also good to try new things apparently. The news that Michelin-starred Variety Jones is moving into bigger digs next door is to be welcomed as is the suggestion that the existing space will be priced less enthusiastically. Even so, the truth is that both places will be comfortably beyond the means of most residents, even the aspirational blow-ins that used to be called gentrifiers. What the area is hungry for is places that you can use, places that will feed you well on a Tuesday night for a price that you can live with. Meath Street is truly blessed with an abundance of betting offices and beauty parlours - you could get dolled up in The Glamour Pit while waiting for your horse to come in, in the equestrian sense. However, when it comes to places to eat dinner it’s slim pickings. Fusco’s is rarely a bad idea and I’ve heard good things too about the pizza at the back of Lucky’s (!) and the toasted sandwiches in All My Friends but the arrival of Space Jaru is one of the best things to happen to this timeworn market street for a while. The bare-bones space was previously home to a café called Tasty 8 that I never had the pleasure of patronising but I’m pretty sure that this is an upgrade. It is a Korean cafeteria remixing some of the greatest hits of that cuisine for jukebox money. Owner operator Gunmoo Kim from Daejeon, South Korea, has been quietly, but tirelessly, flying the flag for his native cuisine since pitching up here in 2010. I met him way back when he was shipping the Jaru concept around farmers markets and recall being struck by his obvious zeal. It has translated into a successful business selling prepared foods and meal kits but this is his first restaurant proper. On an initial lunchtime visit the place is packed with folks who know a bargain when they see it. 13 buys you either a fried chicken sandwich with house-made condiments (and a fistful of decent fries) or you could choose from a selection of ‘Korean BBQ Bowls’. Anyone with a passing knowledge of Korean food will recognise Beef Bulgogi and Chicken Dakalbi. For those without that we’re talking about marinaded and roasted/ stir fried proteins thinly sliced and served over excellent purple or kimchi rice, both of which are delicious. House made sauces and banchans (sides) are provided and bring the bowls to life. Don’t sleep on those chicken sandwiches either, they’re as good as any you’ll find in town. 36