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words Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick wor
ds Aoife McElwain photo Killian Broderick words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan photo Malcolm McGettigan photo Malcolm McGettigan tim ein te D lin Be nad Ct hte tf te facp h t t sit d b im ein e Dlu ade o s lo , M un derin t The Swawnh n a fhw draener hd oan t t asitteh-e-a errn co’e dioneetphr y’ rn, ia o teat bco ing l, the y m s hh n a f w draenj jns lobg sle ure sways m u hrero e bar ss eprony re mosr oo E tisem in Dupte enbirflin bade o PROUDLY SPONSORED BYg teranbeinos teyienlitudss ineimutin en ery en d oloar PROUDLY SPONSORED BY wraas ne a oy srhip tlo e git crd d lue N le GASTROGASTRO nks are allowed to drink, isn’t we approach The Jolly Monk, ed bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I ould think drinking would be ething.’ bout that? Everybody drinks,’ e profession that doesn’t.’ I nt. ught that the monk was one.’ o drink, isn’t Jolly Monk, ey Hotel. ‘I ng would be ey Hotel. ‘I ng would be o drink, isn’t Jolly Monk, ody drinks,’ doesn’t.’ I p the c side do ’ur lf y ib oer v’inr s f l. ‘tIio fuicd a furiliktpo e y e?) abd f those ex os y rhiside do ’nur l d thtuge e spote lder (A2 size mf weird how monks are allowed to drink, isn’t ask Anton as we approach The Jolly Monk, n thl in ldminder bar after the monk’s drinking, ‘Look at the sign!’ A monk ody drinks,’ doesn’t.’ I one o smoking in lifh h inside doour leaed tho mous folder (A2 size ma by e?) ab ring on te, tha in a . ‘Y ’ur le ir idleinp t y qtuickl’ in cy si e, under out how ed bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I ould think drinking would be ething.’ bout that? Everybody drinks,’ e profession that doesn’t.’ I nt. ught that the monk was one.’ bar after the monk’s drinking, ‘Look at the sign!’ A monk happy!’ It’s one o p wa enova e o t n I irf yrmoue inatts anthd aurilioing oo derhy s un h. ’ n n imiclltlure o bI uget’kte spotsligth ott’ in cyfe faofmoug in lif he Thkb. ‘lin, y s weird how monks are allowed to drink, isn’t ’ I ask Anton as we approach The Jolly Monk, e newly renovated bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I ean, as in you would think drinking would be ttops tops tve wa o me a pp aca le sadnrdaatting it i ts ae w ac t one of thf thos hir hily tes, ra il Morrissey is holding aloft a mile on his face. Anton pauses Wh es witltel bar. Tht tce iainle o in a place t a !’ A monk lding aloft a Anton pauses , maybe.’ n a h y t eae oo ene s , at shin ly droe in o’ Iarer’t t’ co f tua eha k opt s t k for a m ment i h ur wm ps t n o , unabsraceh inert re. ‘Ybclina ’gs bahind Dhdiblin t ioe m erk wae oh ur s s t t crtairo-r sob gs,may, ieoypbe?) a ou ring on the terrace. ‘t m k Y ’t n engres, rare tlhat s ur smoking in life, t at make ynt ne srotatte s o y qhen py happy!’ It’s one of hi o f those ext reads ‘Those a poem olh nk was one.’ k’s drinking, mys ery anaeoaune a povem ot a sokae fe an r t eastsye peeinots estht in a cen rt r ads ‘Th e a p w f s are allowed to drink, isn’t e approach The Jolly Monk, bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I ld think drinking would be ing.’ are allowed to drink, isn’t pproach The Jolly Monk, r of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I think drinking would be g.’ n a h’at o y td ab cit h t? Ea er rt reads ‘Those that shine from the t need the spotlight’ in cursive, under a candle. He will return momentara poem of his own, printed out in an ohibited or something.’ ‘What’s weird about that? Everybody drinks,’ says. ‘Name one profession that doesn’t.’ I nk for a moment. ut that? Everybody drinks,’ rofession that doesn’t.’ I !’ A monk lding aloft a Anton pauses s, maybe.’ about the sense of fly, fleetingly hiey noem o ee arnwh t e tssyospter t m o e yali, Cd thh ac lder (A2 size m t wd o os ,’ sheio io’ h th e Min Th h k. Ialed cokinghorlde vs, wiy tbg , betut betka es t s om t ein wien romeop o f th te thirt reange, bseue y occf ded bps b il Morrissey is holding aloft a mile on his face. Anton pauses t m ke y ar o eee Ahbey Ho light’ in c i aited o puite a ure o badnhes t saef r n, as in you w u g a ou ness. Th her er sm mrave, unhe, t t ma e y e n n imiclltlur g a ou ys is. The bd ck ur . Its estaouo a h bg q a p ag q a pp acable s alt thb. H he bl rk urn mg a ou o abs i B d blfci his, surely, with the instituguises over the years housing rink, isn’t lly Monk, Hotel. ‘I would be nk, isn’t y Monk, otel. ‘I ould be drinks,’ n’t.’ I about the sense of fly, fleetingly that? Everybody drinks,’ fession that doesn’t.’ I ’ h t a si ar akin Whtdghea’ te inmuanventy, anemlaugen fioy Mt p e light’ in c t r ho lo holder (A2 size m haty tnihhe bloeltiolk oaaf ths th n . He wle O log v in p ace t ing it ipn o’ h om g o s s ty ta y tp e a p ome le scs t esboapp hgatrte w acon, p e cin osiattahe I t tother f am td s on h a k wa lde whunnhi hiny He I t m aouealeosh an inte in a pl i f it iu ar pt Itcec a esn g oybd Chle sib. ‘ wlings b hinad D blind a’ in ce flsi e, unh im t neNta e od tthnm icd bl iefligly, flethinetat dolf G’ I ma f t a oer side do ’rare, wf fer v e w og nk was one.’ k’s drinking, a myseery ane pro or teasion t’ in cnfoiliin oanor h aakm d etf a c gs a ts osrieny et),, w t t opce he stcoop tio b tuattf tehe Thrames Reaves, ats er R p o If you’re interested in food in Dublin, you’ve probably heard of the Bereen Brothers. That’s Marc and Conor, the siblings behind Dublin brunch and dinner stalwart Coppinger Row. Their latest venture, Charlotte Quay, is named after the block of the Grand Canal Dock that houses their restaurant and bar. The spot has previously been home to Mourne r soacetm ahing’ p paro a efy’ m tr hr y! td of tho O bli hmhlhly Mh acs plh t sa aurgs,t ys. ‘ enormou sfs f h Mfg ou d C oanle e tor, t t maecg b nks are allowed to drink, isn’t we approach The Jolly Monk, seats after smoking in lifh here t t m k Y ’t nour leaed th er verligh h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp aca le sadndats. Th ill ret seats after smoking in life, t t mak Y ’t nour leaed th er very quicklur v gio s y ta y to a . ‘I wi e our b f a cb f a c h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp acacitle sadn ats. Th ill ret t r ads ‘Th e a pat s urf hihinf his own, pr gio s y ta y to an imicltsh I was tna hes . H e b k urn momentarf thos hir hily to re ose t oem o-e from t eh inted out in an ring on te, tha in a . ‘racee ynu e sohte s op tlight’ in cursive, under . ‘I wiure o of his t-se exc ea g of his t-se exc ea g ring on the ter side do ’ r ug a inside do ’ r ug n imicltsh I was tna hes . H e b k urn momentare w ace w ac dle le y e t makt d b t n enf t en es, rare tlhtot s ur- h m t srin’ co tpy to ms t I wiugh I wa-s that a cc t sa e a p gio s y ta y to an imicltsh I was thes . Hfe wn ft laher ’ co tn t y ers t t creh act-- T e av on Bar a I guess it will be tw des-t quieview Hut t hr y’tdep s, I ki y tlor a d do m g t’ gs milelin hind b y s on o er to see te no t an ycouunninor maf b lic desk rgs a uageflecitsio ep raot St b. As w gio s y ta y to a . ‘I wi e our b f a c lpanys its. The bd ck n m pblishm hn. ‘ t creh acts s w fen peoping o t os a hildminders, mayrda e in y qhese fa hsi io, un n e c in a e yoo ld think drinleing wou ill rhThan ps t e wat n im of his t-se exc ealngn o recitre tcit e h wa en th y’ he in ot ero t r ads ‘Th e a pinem o-g or t a s haat o ur of his t-se exc ea gr oiltel bar. Thte s prona d h oap Weht wspo to of hiaaur scs tlraores, ra d awure f iefsle, f Metft g y s ot on, p an h f th ad oerne ex eir So r rotathhat. s at opce hd afe fafili s Do h er s ure o ‘I su ir dle. Ha ht ti bll r Th eur t y ve wao s ea h sep wahten t a s o te m ng on thk’s drms t-svye waaet cretvy manag e p a ded memin der btrr s is the lack ofoy, untutored in the ways of dis- Mullligan & Htines is he in ersin r t s tt dr louxi a y s m Chinese or no. I ha e a soft spot fo. Thor this place.ke ve wa o me a pp aca le sadnhen t wa a t saese a acer sm kts es bli hm h . ‘Y den’ l hhine fs od clae s’ hh t. Ied o t in a eno s NUTBUTTER CITY LIMITS Nutbutter words Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick race. ‘ words Aoife McElwain photo Killian Broderick . ‘I wiure o words Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick e ter side do ’ r en rd thmouotlight’ in cursive, une?) ab ugh er verg it is w racee ynu’ e sohter verlighuicklur v n imicltsh I was tna ht . H e b k ur eople u os hir h y to re os y ot s urf hi h ps boopt of inevnistt dd by t ialcchine f m tb der in f a c irnh . H seas wesen peokple un ohaeir p o esur le so ver vere s uite a urinle sadnridtleeating it iaplac Th f thg ay tn e Jur se Jonly M plehs a co - ey nys if t sts aen tug h d cn hlen a s ts esside do li cges, rares fy occninkl s a pal ameer sm ter t n tv, tn, prer, thd o f sliYtg a de’enioh’urehl enormou s a co s, sure yer sm rh g in lif wh o side do h a s’ur sg a dee, sopzer a hpa it os, murts o e o hb lklh f hapaps aue sg o t a sk a e wat of in-eni t m o qay tittu reey ee sohvt t por a new ce yeou sh ooehoeres p d ah er gt oa ae?) absn imky ts rale sadnie Gder in tniadiete f. Ile a drink a d rrtelet. a amle t f hihfoe in oaoeewooerrace hmbs in o r y Thbin. ‘er Rld’o inted o t in an he lack of u p l h wa hy’ e in odgs oe Bomnhf hie thoreir plti y te Theoh g ay occurre ann, p s a cpapnr e I tinog it i hoio en hnhinle ubs t-s’entt p b y tt olos. Onk i t est pe frsibw eohnrle enou y n es As Ennh cites, rae a ple toes t tem is dhws Cr u ‘e cinos ys iur diets. Oft th t traaptp Thlr asady b o b’ v e ext r ads ‘esrut m hbpewpen tg e ta unct’en pn me on s o ed Gáiu cblunn, The Iay ma o t pt Hs ow Thp wa a od a bfy’ BOLAND’S SWILLS t.led . Sah d ethrhin t v h lift Th ht that the monk was one.’ r after the monk’s drinking, ook at the sign!’ A monk Morrissey is holding aloft a le on his face. Anton pauses e childminders, maybe.’ quite alluring about the hotel bar. The sense of ystery and briefly, fleetingly a place that is at once home inematic imagination has surely, with the instituy drinks,’ esn’t.’ I Hay W u piosfhinud colol m dipor e oelos r i The t orat ohain ine corntthsdd b aly tr an ys ot wale Old S ps b unn orat th urer e a p tger-inf shbe s iraceniv os. Thel vie bwtdetury b-n aislde woe as wie to Mo- y Kem is r in 1592, I waas al re b i ers myseirst M g taelmas term an of hi naer o l frlog b ys oae theraaringesn e erho h e ftlnilee. Th t The Jt y M ptes pa - rina en load of fery ac oupt i ps btcag yt hin a b f t asiny ers, a s R, wtpy o g a little o ep s ppce hi der p le u h osearg in.a h. y ee t wags aiccurd pe p d b bvs u m na e patrnaos a surlearve to our motto to Prove all things (and) thdgnd sui bn tsorac n orao rese o caer naeinrg a litrale otov tli th hy th h n a en io e cole co f t ads ‘w on adienays i der in tar d of Ele a drm k and rens maoner s o inside doolid kmr perphlder (A2 size mle oderer! I unn umine po ronh nh me m oe Jn tes Ald i de wa f. H a wesam teop le choig tes As En e Iuy Thees t u idiot,’ he says. ‘Look at the sign!’ A monek vnis nice t fenwia n ad hest wa ered C aa d a bureroe et, wc h erer acrle thin e ts af d a bh ar ak d ceg oeir lle mon’ co intpat in at nte she s g ves sumo-y t on im oiclltur sbcle sadn t por a neh ens an mo e t uo nen h f drbrble co umin r af fran ys i or a nned curlThk . Mt r- lde wli hm e eer that the monk was one.’ fter the monk’s drinking, k at the sign!’ A monk ts a d t load of fra Th u Thantrs fotlder (A2 size mabt e?) aass e soweae , wuitt w t- .lon weug tahiff of p ll Ps Rhhins atn eg yhinps ba bnit Th, B y t s wy!’ It ’ic mou n hiothhad of feir rcit t h oen ts a h hreo oouebnibs. R ht wld lad in ast, hiot th a smile on his face. A t ll en esb , b y mh oes t cenof inl.g tt s e, Bry te faan ad ex,apen io a tes over tfeips to raybrbver ee. ‘ouicltilok of trhhntl s. Th y’w n aatsn m’ coint, taryereax. apoas, murmernlots a ouesn om Jes tle ext reramee o er noeinhaosfy’t bhoer! Irasin o e tbli d r len’et.ug den tnat og in lifp, t int m g lvhder bs iao , w t o e inkips be peu ee toes. Thgt Thcreti enormou lpace fw klts gues , une dio t’ ht,iinlg ore perorar t e sig, unafps bley in a g h I waI w ji bo bf f oon te ht’ in c gs, -ts ane t p em ic ime w rt,tet’ Ie t pnhino n t er sheaowael the b em oo coen t ro oy a s’ae .ce ase uggins whty!e monon g a o goi.u e wa ea ergur t mf enormoue sp eslder (A2 size m’ioaiom lg yd aturfe for la be, t e Tht Lah.we hin danitatng a little ourn momen arh hh dh a d dinno au y t k o I wtiocbl li s t h ineinin lg a li k uroerlit),os o r ose thsoem o e s owphdg alg obof hirsive be b f a cat to.ur McGarry slices mf e w ap en e thinle ub y t en th fy hip a,’ he ser ’ coomen t plde vib , b t betk s. Th enp ays if bf hien tlhy hea Whly! he thd c dg s onee omps t-sshirt remeg, sernosre ty o nin-or - ir oh t in o oy’ ha tmouio s ur p. ‘ ky s eth I walmn er cad wess. Thhioltl retverh n f the sero o g ve waloeir py t r pf (bac d ethhindle rs folder (A2 size maa urerbversberumin hroaur le stores tpo y qn eruictklya v er’orat of in, untasao t k ure o aed tha .d e ol hs w e t sa y’ae in otssys le. Thio s lo en B t cro ik i t shin gs,rom the august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to g mapa yers, a- enpoacroatrik i ns, meaeyd t.ht’u g it its atetetld biof ouictkely aa s Dt f thhe Thkme exian adfhrementio l older (A2 size mpf int ervs oneeo, Bt ho te acoanges, rare- ny occurs aas wt t en peps tn A fte tto mn imranes er aan gs an e b otet vldraog n m’w. sm t o’sagine, I was as a callow undergradua e oo arer sm rsit. g in lif der unoers, a t nad w h i er a ts ayn e uh ks,’’ Iur’f in ewoof his t-s e a orges, rat-re y occ atile s arue perainps be preos od, Bose exc ea emhenh flolig h f th o in ps b le co e siy tg b ’r, wfys o e en ligh diklthhd ts a s arc ank ring in lifnie tdd brkY y in arer smohin mble le con. ‘ l Dh. hk sih nrem e s-ioerweus an urwse, under y tad of fuet o c ug e spot wtuics an aws gui a y ys. ‘Lt h t tiet lrble co es. ‘I w e mig ren ircenatin tio wens aurl Dhock tht h n o a umin h I wa aarpen-ld S oo immo hl d o d ach pspks like Nofe yatio bd thom Je Thumint alg bf a c r tbtatag it inld Chke be fidg k ats esquer Str ho lo hks like Nei’d affi af hi o s loo sf thiry say t Thntheps behine from t er ts estahy ihmhht’ug den p o,neoe famili geavr aio ssaeer thon impcacae oe vys ot wai dleaaesrans werd of Ell Dc t o ein w M loa S ty it en o o al g akes, ralde v s ‘ Therth ura g ouem o - t b tog s u ainanod cn hle in oewavsasy. Its establisohment cre s.eodenow- hw oeAr lomouoy uder ot te exi f the st l Mi s hy ttf may is hg lding a urae mige Gys io immtnad curls athr aws p er stn ohne h a smile o s t-spd t lo k oh olet ah. cim s Re , wp wath in rac bg a ’ t Thd obe I, ths t folder (A2 size maybe?) about how is when people use their phones here’s something quite alluring about the of drinking in a hotel bar. The sense of o otiomknu hir assf m y t Br atoaonThlg b e tun en e fe in oa e pe ts estleaqinablishf Rhemlet.hmins pawu dts at tnao urrnhir es, B inasre mig ros norpes aio wan tserhsyrs an s oe a and celrassy. Its establishment creden-oie anindl t ren pn mpemindeh ur 20s h’ rad h ld fa urrentyr atwThe th t The Jauy e wale yot n y Hh a pere beg ou g fe faou g tiinl Th h t r ing in lifine t . Tha ht The Joiur l y M er vlpace for its gueseminder y t Idrace f suurn adf y bhatrr k is. Onursivle u inug ao enI saeh t The Jn t ur l d tb o des fhto es t n orle ch vaderusu m s R , h tt Thee tpos g a e y, ar tauge t hvotbltsf yy btuicd ayfosfurili vs D sm J royatg in lifs, t ot ma a yin e s o h s ovhr y q en tyy* pa ing tp.n o to pu erwis ttoete peodg et p lhi okoildminders, mues Abeb s, wo ay m f th e fa orrissey is holding aloft a on his face. Anton pauses was one.’ drinking, A monk ng aloft a ton pauses ts aeuend h k of (bmhd b iefr p eino u e fa ihi tio izza but ps, mlhla, Th th t in o es to efgrho ’ wenn tk ttf tehe Th enoremou er ng ou t er extbtle erraderk o o s nes, in a p ich’a t iorar pk lmin ins nugg li ’lde v bt’ar peroa e’tm lomihli pran o c rts o e h t baad ind phttle o- p s pg a o goiicoty e wa e ir ieme Iel terherer fhh hos hin eo spteo pur ramewae afobf tahirem. Thnhat le ra d coilol Thloff sl teae Jhiit y Mro amen a ts guests a t in api n o qa sur schto.avserownotr a newed f r a de s s everas h n pl co ot tager-incitr re in ottherist’ compaany, as tlhougth acrt- iob. Mt yts a en e a aps buk g in a htilt l b h. Th fce ie v, wemnhin , aonw h et tood o auy te poem wars se tio ohe f my s d t te olhad woiein it a son nourle coe Tht L h. ectinn txves An t s, wo’lea s a n lminhy* po A fl ie wa e inw’oI s ersha e c ldinynt nt puhht hte Iul the be kly a ra y be f t ce a in acae J y Mro ad at iioahlsittle chou o t my lt t ow Th e waee wa aewsoleociin ht The Jf a cit y Maro ae w nin hints eso. Ite o o e t n-o os aone exit, wav hem is le sem esas ped aies wtew?mfeot emind wh s w, b den, stkerhi-t, b t o g t of in-vni ole y fe a ur g apoue a pt Ay’nen f k iy’ vacu’ Atio of fmnoht puoevs, w a og inghe e instite peosthdd by tl oacavtfie a odind in t s o h in n heranhin lde w e h tf (bmliesd botins ae fs om t v d by tet hoi irer s io Th hin in oiues An bn paormut maint. ‘ rnt at a sy* parin uee ernio y!’ It l M ouf his t-sin eir rhe s s f a lgs anon w h urerp t , Br ertpf the fa ne o bcowak oieir phoetcad et Th osh y ot sh iee antet washsyrr t),t peu s, a Hay Whrth wwstfo a . Th t Thf a c ptlor t te iy closwents gues oe tn e Jur s s thnheh actw o r n e if f o imme bm dger ’ g a enuarsu f craeft be egg mf r ce h der ph s D o m untn pf tocache a eranrnts. The bhaktvn n mom eir p o es oy s are pops t mf in n!’ A m a pr o ecure or, wy ple O em t t saeae afapnin Th vser t of hi .n tseabehs ‘Th ae a p em o o co v e mell p owsipat n and es aoiosuhir uhad o reh actoaot s uric im grap Whe p s drd cot f t blit pt rtilll, Th dend ae Ques t em ile chan ina t ay!’ Itaseh’on n’ cog apan , a en h ose th w f hi e s a pnhe fa k, in oloco y s a p r p le sps b le d pd in osa rlde vpblaca g a ouh f hi hivps buy to a f the b Sc h enio ig a dedle. Ht tfe ws a co e tt y ots av ded ms, wd P etk e rb, un e, Bpeurae odn ad ten he brd sher’ co emp n owan oe.vt craut ma- es t ears h levni aunher o eciarlPROJECfh oT PICNIC t in a aus Do sm Jant nicers ead etahin iof thgs ae p t btvtf ineasli eg.r minim af f t w ea o mf insingsurao es, aaee vte aioroop, aen t t Ahe bm t in us D d h t r ads ‘s, a rara, ats a f hi uroovwemavnop st s o mbs t-slerled “er dafy of w t s ah f t et tr, if aaan. ‘Bd coawspacny, a ermk bd thn o ice, op o ayskt Bcas Rlh.d behiefla, fllet bld ph g aend Ch ahic g ao ooiume f a c s, wos otvhginwen hurn momkenuars tiubbos, w tey m es ap w eaenm Jo l eyers ean e a p n no immoa trhd oewf ined ahat. Wy thn ollalemem was s w ino t a t’k oly somy atingce iyiat s s arue ps oren, pr ver e, unyb uming bays oues tio ere bs t-s. ence, ocaer o iuminlunet Sef thnosen summer er e pns aeet tood ous, B t be pof, bd r h htrtt sion eaaf hiaeo f the Th et Thd et ps b h i f G og pizza boxes on their laps (the s at the start of October, I’m nearby individuals for varion their psychical comfort. y fy to r noho l , s yrnpf hiface fw Whie; it rn asb uhmentade, f - nn in if th bd vt fua le Old S eslees, sr e pe oor d olelts a t Th lir y bsten f p , lo kd f s oe Jg livo ubb y Hdt t b do tg ieto d aoerior ll peph aew or p e g a ou p wotbt oti, Iaee raooy a rarog ldrasadoy boc g v ht Th e a pys iur diets. Ohu-gs,role. Thlit The Jo y Ms w en fzerlace for its guests a g a ingavy in t y ehy porhoty’d aley b assyf va i d b ce phav h-so-r sumpg Thnbkd nlde wes o f a cace t s ol the bur wleges te cu go uur p stl a pinltl vinuib y H ic im etkesttATho convslde weunn i, Th r o pary in te a poem oo tt a s Thace fiew?’ A gaps rtop haeniohig a dee h acper weace you st d in th, I e hee dn nd hran o t e vagag ey (F na tai rom oyuan days. Thre alm s a e yg e I a umThle P , ast en Squoarims. Uh iles d avblif cotintn B, pluir epr ‘ aepay ka t bhrne, o oh aiaud dinno a f fic wat Cps b . Hd pihl rle o s Cren ra - as ind studious b e tt ye orlde w - d a civosre nat ses t-si nm t n ught: ‘ asunt y aside do e wa y H do taer k f th o contveby a she Thk e fald lad ing y’s is currenthich ie foun s io s state ollegef affairs mao errmin s inl gcud te was nephrod or adtside ohiibm er mont fsll a gap ht: ‘ ther, tp e be o ldminornur leeid ths ov wes tt pos e s,a ue soeo e wacrv a lesinuf thoe bslo Thk s e ss un aeraar. Hhe bfe wen tts s teet vnsy xomen tlits aissf thts h ldinc lf (b’s ‘ saer ra hys i nd phd cogle in oth er p e I rs.s t fatem en pas oorrt oioeu ko e Thadgo ree ersy co er t of in ni t),htd out in atintan ad o i h w ’ co lde wes th g r p e thinien do cralt ble thin ps b evd h lif s D p h tz P c d ett ter acrlhinhen td LED scullite’ co cmaann-a s ts a sur- rising n r ptunad wlen do craf s tt n, p p to tv y s tenens teo sexts. ‘state’, Bar e yo h,Yine J’enioh y evo e s otlder (A2 size m me leir pl past MVP an o ra o sber tstauno ers, aate v o irf fiemenh flo o hi l r en peup wsse t Rody Bolandsa Lean consulate opposite. Uh huh.i p in n ian naonenwsuquer Stros mloet.hmin oug Th inr, w er, s ei, alvnns atosimcgeg t e woeeax.ut w t es a m h h’ e migy t wah h n td almfr embaar tn. ‘oBer e, unawsorecc ow o le Ole a di te f c y (bic teace t. i Thinthc ps bneen p ineitmhpo o eten evt The I y iv e do tvhaawpw. Thheir sig y a s erith tita Ha eshrdgnad s vcy a sifhhsl f egi opot ibe ot regs,on avks me aoutih t, wav ee ma y lt pur rlhace fer ilesinclauralo e o w otenat ad in th ehoumlpf Elcxs seah , bh t b ttth heers, wan d , t hinetlde w xleicqb a, b t ble rax.letklo shlinly* puo kuep b fplle eat u w ld it, ts f our rr a new io o childe wderldmin v t ne eig a Laots a tiof teh rmot bp tn o sheaur pers aoercaad wipith itsas le cl– T Th b llh r Rowev nody Bolands ibt wav onmtenoiuyrorub’m tr minimlbl, Th trehtut me bes ttlegtg os oey a s r d per sa sd iws as ty bint , in 2015, tff tlhpeer s. Th s ual alleviates her anxiety at ndings by recourse to photogith her environment from the yers eating eir laps (the ctober, I’m hmines has a lot going for it. Not least all, the array of pubs on offer. The most markable thing about the variety of drinking poria that dot the suburb is the fact that, pite all being spitting distance from one aner, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its n. Depending on one’s taste or the particuties of what you’re looking for at any given ment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? xplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s t of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied biberies is primed and ready to step in and that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart ugh, for better or worse, is the breadth of erent niches that it aims to occupy. en thio exst o this i w?’ Anton asks me as we exit, waving man. ‘Because the poem was shit, but y funny.’ w?’ Anton asks me as we exit, waving man. ‘Because the poem was shit, but y funny.’ als for varial comfort. te of the es how the nxiety at e to photogent from the so too the mar in S’ do tht e I e o o e h y acllf ahoe p, beeue prumn t s ems enw s n Si’rs,’ Antaon suggests. gtiou gie o uet d fo pue a a r ld go b w Wedgewood colour scheme, striped awnings, marble counters, arrays of fresh flowers and a uttload of framed etchings and photographs n the wall, The Ivy manages to convey a sense f seniority even for a newbie; it reminded me f the venerable Old Stand of Exchequer Street. eatiinos tty ev ce othnio b wan o tt t i I viiot eesih olor tn. ‘hle lad oi le eth ta ale tas pg alrr b ep b l otr f the fahe bs Denm JT yers ean eh ps bh iinhhi tai nt i idi er ext ot t wo tra c ce hader plo en bsr tn. ‘oxs sp s sef (b c d ethe m ” b d phg a lis o’en do crahit, bt cot The I y i lo tt Thh h a u e a drf (bdier (€9) mlm Thenothrps b lmin iou g y Hlos ove an at. ‘ toeh agewoos s e co lo h tenio ihtt crre en f er ses en t y* p pu raeir sig t d by lt. McGain y’os is cy’ s n g t pd blh t hs oden es t uiott h ur sic oyo. Th le cinbbl, Thaatttaut me baes t gtsi nig t deiof ss o e afos w enuk is. On in en t y) cd c ost yu g otb o puee e au n p ar anio s gui loi b h floh o h nis a , un a the Georbgian splendour ofh ’d attanpts aising em e Ivt s y’, hod cvllmine tl The buildinsuboep btz P’ ’e pun hin d LED s, ka elog v in wslhinw ner tinbs a, Iaes hs awnxietnsh d by tg buminls o e a unfa” m, a ers av e’et h ts o em was sh en t Thle t os prein g unny , Th ’ho v h es se e yo vnugg on ct t e a aphyex, Arlent l min pe bato ph biteran tirld Sudiioe t do r w b oon the’s sheeir lts o st sf craft buuiod tgs a lep b uminlg b rs f tilder (A2 size m aoheroe eu f t raun t b h f n t, be bxidgqtt ratleer t sur ir er ira’ d etg ihince hbt A d phhet lrbn B sx uminf t eqdier (€9) myftanio, loankav u eir lice i’ic im ee bee r e in otsle e oe Jtolo klhlirhmt tett uvs haad inre you go erside do o atyokataicey ealv, fle m lle tfe f mabf tep bk, in o t Tht l Dd etk si oh flowts osug d aliened ace te ss ft t Iet’tin nt wa si rr le?) a a l D t “fad inem i s, sofem oplee ae in ottte ptreo -emionden tn cen rs ha’lesinglid tt, e oi ty t orbla . Th hireny eals f pleasant vieBin le tat vasy d meo e exi. I p om oe-om n oyce sc o a tadtt f seenio ig a dee, s yf hi e in Wh ie; i td colonenio eme, s n eny aaln rhnraiefols gui, fihicleble Old Satr mmae fnun er o ey s k ae migoem wae s, ud ontd aoor metri e p s eryser aapers, mur rle thinle ole ep tere nfp t et h. neren do craiurth en u.ugo ogvurup p to tv ere n m bs, aysoocalder (A2 size mo hasing u va e th n ohe por ytif fu a-ld Ss td n g ok and r ax. aynlraer tahttt ith en do crafent b g ah lo s uoayg in.ar p y evuit w ng a litetle otos up ur hseth ad in a ld fa ei , fl a prore pey bsywps b e iwsoo sciinf seniogur set Thct y Marotpla evwm aptyerB p le us co.n e s.o- t, but iov gd afe yfder plie ar d ottereak o ce t Thr sttye pouhinagtaeith in a bulisin hihickoldn y. Their sign l t, tery mon iy) chne ys a e coc o pues resetegtu aura-n ar o p a-t aeniot dirt, tlhle vy miur diets. Ol the long, ginll rl con o co lde w ce a s, w y Theaes tt hbn h o rerine Jemlpl waven tl oy ur rt pb h thvews in, per ty a ra ts es v va sdeb-s h t crvut me bes t o co maayotre.eir psy, weral coe e faemuaatnyncos ava xm Ja uf th mwt ah ’ r race t coe tt y osie O’ rad hs is n ure s itd, lau p Ilee a n, ta eh e ie of affairden s dinog os inatudinlled ruvo uch a d ke e fa hinioett lof tvkeino kh Ths R ad wogs ab tfs thhe b idgee Ioy is tt .a n Th ot t t Thy f lom e o hf O t pert se w t a en ansyhnter terle the fh tere b essesrats va e migh tsh nl t e Mwanmatnsinheccd bs oik a d rr et.pt b omed ace I lo a lde v br, b t b h t p o co ls ae ahur. The cin e e rcent s r a n w? atssmtsets esctokuaniks ms- s tl cloegt pidenk ils. On t rorI aunpad whoever n t os a ergt, waesogmre av y a sense he s rct oemlg a delemaen fur rln a V edgo’ coof f e t, aa t telel b ur sc ot y Mt, winaiabr vd cice ain icen suas t oramtice it tcvs w owe arlt ts aeshe tad of fr minimtehd bs tien do craly bt hinlh ener! Ioce btv’ck at),e Ie ho p t to tcGarry’s i ns c -rur t whic e wrog: staeot bte erer s a smatooto I mrdke a bnaline fodr ihile high-ceilinge uapot is not th s tt ne b y indi id f f Ther thsinket lleerw of, whhe a or ootot s a colg vs aw o t rat er t carna ality. Mine was a life o uminr ae v, w f fio er tt a se y rs h ad as sale t t heig d herle tt b o t h ur lde v o ae verw we en petb n thsg tinlde v- ht ty H al thba ex,t Ho co e obs iib a, bvy m nial rete ysit yso ue o l peeeny a s ers es t beg g a nagt pt. ‘y’e a simi heras, arradys ot wanrue peroraer t aaavv a leh e n erji b er f fpen ionw ieot r-ts an o at of inoni’et ous emotional state of the Susan Sontag notes how the once home tion has nstitus housing housing d the and the e Jolly ingerbar and Th Theio er n e ie quort o s Llf a vt eaoprane pa conas vnuhtoen Cietn linhs aces en logt n t Thl ieth ere I at. aeiyt er extf th reg a o oy , f sf dgm i his is the precarious emotional state of the urist writ large. Susan Sontag notes how the velling individual alleviates her anxiety at familiar surroundings by recourse to photogals for varial comfort. te of the es how the nxiety at e to photogent from the so too the rdings by rmoua e tf Ee Thsio s R f cra b d p g a o hoh erae esink n wt hilt t a ling o seitin a bl pe , m der in ts D o s e en ymee o er no, seeret bemenclit), av s wre pa out w t u ble Old Sts anma e Sing heir llk aps (tcae t wy m t. ‘ h en ld tlpvs uinurb he fa y Haos ol tahe aion herh y* p m aeryen t he den losdie; i p wattps (to sayatn es t csu gociint The J ous emotional state of the Susan Sontag notes how the a n ele’, ole yy* p g n a ur scrreoy e (v y wbw?a o emin wtotrnterociy* pe co l i a en in o immbtd of vall krnble Old S ts a t o pe’lo in dier (€9) m do crafe thing a aof thur Ah a izza b B N ic ar pere o ad w gs anan ntg ao ogdoupgsunnyurb s. Bahpe po os, md afe fa infmilitttio e o k o iglsf d a cot oh wegaurfies tem ierahg tl sints oole its o uinieaes olvle p yvinoibathblheps bts guests an o ee ays oo oaorene Iapesat, waweard soreeas soeewa s aotinf cra n teers, cen rer tr a nerr i e conngttoemin f thhn adfw ors woi vrd in tlhve fhlat t-laecausuer St es maiva ca ir Tha gs av s wa der plo tutg acttstopup k oof (be btea cer ngs aas ein k ihlfen t iten t fy m y oen r seohw tn t o gvere wa bhug’sho hrf yot it a a h burr f valed “ee t s dn f f le O t w eurt tafeeineg it ier no aen a, ten pd ps prnubv’kunnvange deero lmin nlTh ik is les’ do tfh do tvhaginrh att f hg a li ter! Ithholibs ild , Tht), L s re l ter y cohin t enu r eseneras aaor o immteadier H dbin oh b Th ts, c e English lads’ weekend holidayers eating Papa John’s pizza boxes on their laps (the ywoerele i ioo e Ene liyh lad m P o tt te bann om JB leheet ann o seeing a litvle oo k ep b v haht “nfpa seesws attendant ye olde worlde vibe, but b tetkween theu go l pinf e h uir ldnoos ias f Bses M ae o t ss R ana t p sso coeger b n tinpiaues A s ta e euirih acbeb-ls, by bu w tp cs o etlen fini ge yler iet ohuw?’ Ataio oee, B tvr ae a o e exirto tlo n n. ‘ onys itehafhy’ita Hes W dg id sn. Thly fy a snhh bit he fa es C h a hd brb ert d a eul i oe ader y scen nh ft te bing es oen f ler t o a’ Aio oemini, Beox and a man taking a selfie outside the lin bnd s a aurvived my fe v siv le’, bht I in ur rad inie; itton as in i oormouud bf t io fg bs f d wr hao te yider pfloef odiby le codo, wlt e a eero h nbaade with Bdhlleit b urb tenh n ic tr u rens ttetino immif ttg yher Rlioary T Bd as stee n saer y e on tmsoe vys oes ovn tesder in ts hd of El o ecausuer St ad wier acrh i hiner! I tr pin h en do crafht y le o war f (b sa The th tps bein ooog a raer e o t on Mt waer ext td ta S y ftraogylo wlit),o t’y somcad ettrhin tt d LED st ullig t d b e enurhe Wld l o si’GGrady’s ie in wr a S (biuf Th o res htt icle . Its esc aohe “n t w ubee wa ent ee fat mes Ce tgrceno in uue a es, in a pyl ee if ituhet oes iot pms w seturfe fto, in 2015, tfvf te erhhem. Th t leo ogver est po k, in oe thoay sakhhe fae hin ex, g a mg o ace f’eblae in tit aurotie; inis f fi oe tay t-aci edua srvorp nho r irf onhfuxur e sn o ax.ovnen a hi urteay, wtut a sv rat tb - v er o umining ff f d w n f frv t pyiouo e enrcGar e tn a, ao bes e ois less Ry maesa g isyeop no inaasg ts th t p t ry so imm . M . Yot y ’u weur 20s h-gy Ka bpo r ws e Ivl thre beo es t Th t stoa ay gs ad a pt y te otse Jos uoueir p lo tl, Th t aut me bes toa a le clh tnu hue fairer s y m na es tgsibcevin uweben swe t t ys it t erwes lmin l ts ese y builveballigl moddi os pte ok i - ier ibmf nt emin a saunter t p d th tg rertssiolle cah og tl il tht th a sveat ptr a netwvoy a raot re Qs td me the exit, wav a p llh rut p bs ieir lib ir. , bint bt ia chhe falunerain load o y tor pes er sgs a gur be wa e an i ing it is wt etes t hin d Gál i, L h-sin ts b r si er ots vara u o ines ovder in ter mae flexts. ‘tg’l punuers, all ftn rrays ot watherhio h e a dr tm ae o er n ooeing a liaeer! Itsi’lo hhich wa Tho lierhtps by couelo a attf dek, augd tphen swe.t an ectin peaN e ohmoe o ov h ’ in c fn wfurtve ogvts unr m d etld letw en t easroveres McGad studious b at t ys iebhaby’ e in oa e Beg a pia o otebs i d a ld l es, at H r - es McGarry’s, a k ofoy, unt n o , unet r e b e Thadre a poem o e a e e a little flo td buer Sh k o k ii. It’s,es ato-rthif by mos t shit os er yeraanin . H d aivs it mig w oo y I h w w to enjoraats, nee ts wv an lurge a o a lic horse-racing oyset be th ll er thteir l ts est o gae exc e oug den - w in enkt vb. ‘shmy ben f d , tt y esnostsutle e. A adn paaes ery ev t s urohinf hife pkhh n, poo ar rupesseeo tvec af o ahg aside do lde v’ubo , Th isest do thr ligh ’ in ct. ‘neh cenipks md m d Peg en t h i t a s t di hino O e tio s teeotugfet bet--hit, bu . Th nFg t’ s, ml enl, Th t eut ma es tioeshes tg e Qaheens o M en t p ud coloaure oh l t h i s p tnagt pro coioven ha k e te st mury Ke s faceo y sy t Thosars Recvp ao tat sg a lis ole otoeup shdure erot crh act-- c e o y e exva nonu ese a plahps bnat at a sbeter! Iraerhut dbo oe pe aror s tptat- n NUTBUTTER CITY LIMITS Nutbutter n imica ur scfroy evhs. Thae b aow ahn g quitaglTh g a dee.tdle. Hlur re a mp g vThs taeeb ir’uger very q neen pio otle uo uh leir petca ating it is w ie; i hin wa bs i’lde v e cly f f senio emt thy enen f k i - ou wutono se oeno oom ohnes em t pur rirlv y a ra nron as tioms ks m meibnes t b s, ll a p er oeh y hoh acerlder (A2 size m io af tbs. Rt t hosie OGth its o Ss ce yea s a -er th s go Ioda en of th er y re imter v et t lmin lem iasib s De?) abld by thh.ks a hi oo t p bs is, wibe ’ dett btetlder (A2 size m y b lig hesg rkle ysi sis o er o eaesae might waih n t thho t o le sth d b t h rf (b Thur oyy eben do cratler nalo sg a liftur ranun’m J souf (b a aavcite ss, ssureltcenie ovylin, w.oitor a ne twuer Ho d ua tev n oh e mig unninif cra, ka lo ts, c pera es Ae sh crt bioue?) aassley t etsis nice ta r emen s s ur ” I ’gd aion h e t . I d winyhm, Thug n h (v er fe aliny blready boe lt in a n ad etr e py y b s h le rt rn astv rded me f fble Old Sttsem e fmluxur ion o o n tg Ashe baeasr’ w bko t Cgn of the Th e Qf cra , Is sg fthin etenwa e nyko on ht t, t n fg aoienoes Art o y He prmaanon wleh os . W ance a tmin sptu n tinaavaee- o ry e d tace f y a ra nron as -ctio h f crafg in, it bs s tt was prhin lf a oeap, fio oh am it senleems en.on oa ur a J hn’tarnd o iof Eueccausuer Sr wher no a n fen t h B leit b” esh bt waf b en v e wa e s rel tt y t res titlmies tem i’entuale cintaheenl a en e t irt Th b t fe n apor e poen do cra h ld tinterht),e Ihy ies tts h s tesd is e quocs en ope lettn tu bp tbo tvt s ovarwas v b v n to inu d bhicka ld lad inu cener tor a ns hb ie; i eorn asnf thnn ehien t t wa o immo h thinca lecs had iats dyhit, b. thiff of pu t- s t c f vaun ers, a te vys Roeav n i. I ph le o e n’d f ink anf Rr, b am syr.ugughd y my so a s atuo aaser y a raer t f the bncdead m atin tu ld S avmae ft e sr minim levg oini g ovt t me co a hd “ leh. ihth heitaner er ext y f t p rbs ire P ie I a w eum agy a ralor s, ano saraigietb-sld mhg sty co vy o . W er en a e oe Jsi ln thouof Oes A va y spaoh a, bo suAe sr asieble ch a eenw o’s k eit t b er! Iy fltg olsit ptus upben, atneht manttet w tgntab cee te to o . ve noe wa e I y ie erls tk id ai nineir sig rwever bae hy f l h n, b n otoa e resest p o co vd b l is t y ooauit dir, s r va. irln a V . Tht tttow s o Whdg t bf er! Ilo b yp t.o tv pen f ace fhr i t ‘hur s-egrloer otu goh l era e a le Os o er do craifh whino m; s unny e ngerar and reet, in 8 reet, in 8 all, the arr tny of pubs on ofnafi pia. T eers,g oounh f e tl l o d bittha ads hhroaa y a nfkend ho ts o c s eo ooe e I eger Rar ieith eby T e noe nus cols t, bleniny balh ennce erintaio olid n t aatinntTh a vy s d ph g a unnumbugs u .sr minim lt y tns their doh etw baser sensibilities at the cost of the other. This, I supe s ub Ig s fcct in S’b n ofe cost resfd bt. ‘Ag i u go oeh ar surroun el co Ahe bbr r,’ Anton suggests. ea tc, wt gn t . r (€9) mvonxiety a l f seniorig a decen ur rl co - o, bieonxieta ur ooemin .ao oner hi rto , w vlf ae uxur u k li w ide n idy e p, Io a euy a ra oan cios o n o ph b, I ts s d fhind w k th c hilax.le wtth en o’oims cohile its o r t o a n toeir lae o s yter natein a p eter! I. Wt),lnwe p” mv tny na anceonetwro gte B e wa l cnio’e I stoyesh lmin tly* p ing to k n ln et e fairre te t eir sig rao e quotidian form; so too the banter’, or the death-spasms colonial mindset that served l as a comfort blanket for the n o hathe nohhic resl alle t por a newd, iatio ol f ugran h et. w um elhs an oe wisiderldn hsiv e o er over yir minimaur rlcy tlbace fnr iits guests anus o s .iy e exietcinvl e end fyr a za bpx of vacraira u ar per aee mrory o a pen selecte ino k wep brev e wooasvemeno oy t l a, I f crat. ‘ven r o “pe wed bitt o h t appopd tet coohn tte lifeo gtu d) a se peeewsoey fo k h enio idit hetadr ys heoevw mte, r ks me fe o k ad by ttete a ld l t t siens “l va’h s eigoe ax. t w tps (teheoerl thle be es tctsi n toea. This bse, bo b e ph h w ct t u. Thot The J y Mro raapie yb’ Atlice al kh aB gas’ ropu hh af tohvserw. I pls,inrts bped fto,vr aate urrtosto snd wharangh y co vop, w v ne tder in t m ah oahrf foms o gele b ren tule thin tetcot cp t.o tug t if yto . d et rteaet.ade wiax.tft btsth Bolt, bleit b”. W h ts o otp es eir sign in t a s o h in i d co ua ur sceno p ae N orf yle sa. Mrf feem o d Pkl os u gopktnFv ene-ineroy eo k ilosr tdit an. ‘ le b o her We th w urfts bel mtce ay e e a o s a co k tp-has tlornua o e exi s aiew?ou t, unass rcv ad wh le bh nder in tpoten As a cots gues-’ts anrexioef craft begg er a mer eur f thks m trairn ad ot totr a ne iwtar ts “l noioy te p em was ske arvur rlglm sooy a rasintate col floo onae t wa At, wao “ t-lhnd wsiderle wh a n f e in o e ysi le chg tFn y tt cral the benyes t h sg sano p-ks my lo h in auc gib-le mod liecater erf h g r only traffic wste will see consists ofdehnd wh et tks aelo-inng ly K y’ s ara tetuse th e ey e F t it f thd afle tfah lifilis pr b b le ef thh n ns, ws oarh s te hhine ny tio g ld lad in e o tn oh t Thleir p vs res ufflher p y e ps b Th uees lde w hg in.ns gar p sehen thw ly ograup p to t e e w ywArtosny* p t’ co yoiues Arlnese a’ do tirs d ald l emencenk at en hh tt. Mir en s er o s , h ein ere thin, ao s leinrnred taiho hls ttlastetktilminem ih oy boh e opar s teirvor o; te pa re fa d of thtt o t. ‘eThn nhle uo ke ohich wa’esh’e pet oeay te t en t bn n ps (t ws I ur w csiuv ug on craenhca pcaepaa s engs a ws a ra ct waok i rier ilm t’ Ataio of fmi on ttes Ans te No eey m , weninabien t e o th r At tere bt texts. ‘ ’, Bc qauatn e men der in t ios, m nt wat a S td tthe ou var o d etlh ax. t ts y tf th ci eneral hble Of a to tlohnd cldidge finpo te s cea eless liceso yseeetnh.ingtectligh t’ in c fd pin a bv ve no t h wk a crleacg aad to aabd b-ef m t ye th o. I o Oclo hih l y M p en ry sf itocligho snesaamtatoay b t raere Th p v-in roa s, s yrlrnpace f ly bl rtwt an to en h ahe e o h-fld S er Wh d as sd co tahy-, a d tl something of t b ve, un hbslsne Ihy is ttl li s tt d ph th m s t– I’ l t o th ag ioouo d C o y s e pa ron ein n av ’lit),, woss is ty’ Bac ramehpe slet in once ht ogs anf G iotlank canoetcamhas and that’s oka h a, wo m ange hlr hem ile c t u A f ts o h. ks wvod ieir sigrh lit), e a’n a s he l k of re I t ma o nen tleoeoaes Dotm Jad beoethaeads hvpby ng a liotog r te do the w a en e teberad Gálhce abs inhin nil t ur ttblertrp h cen t, wavnin en f k i s o ninn me o e laathlirorat? Pty Hib terrghf oo ehah ee aus t wr rs il t ahe ls, ak Mulligan s screen day a e wao crf dit or cra mernf co liutle divb evrnes t mo hld li e o D s coaumn.id. And bring way Muving prlligan & Hvinles iv e Bta sin eeanygtiain ing ins pervasoy t, unas a per ofs, abrle sadn ihtest saee a ana ers n hload of filomft aTh e a p em otsr os , woem o e f owavharbttenaewss dinq ur sci on adauno ays a corh – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulysses n one ows ho tt tgs’ p il. Ar p enintudenll of the b eo r rate shhth ntt s f hihte f t ets ahvr tle tan xt-lw’eccausuer Stcf crat Thn Bax.lar. Thid a nings, t r iads ‘Th e a poem o e ro ’ he s er h , B y thtien adi h I wa h t o sa had suggested a revival of my feted Double Take® series where I would choose two comparable places and consider their relative merits (or otherwise), side-by-side. I’m glad I demurred. Margadh has raised the bar for the consumption of culturally adjacent calories. The other (unnamed) institution would have won the art but lost the dinner. It would have been like comparing Titians with NFTs. Or something. The room is light and airy, on the first of his t-se exc i y tealnges, rare y occhine from the inted out in an ou r aeugo e sps folder (A2 size mayb der out how eare in otur . Iinomen arn the terrace esou s t-shir chan o recit e y occ b f a c ir esi s. Th ill rhet n mle uen h - le h fy’ h obmoos y o s arue perrpray, NUTBUTTER CITY LIMITS Nutbutter ts ai bd bbl McG en B h I was e le sadn at a s ac ps te o ba y t rro - n imp acae hut m es t te b bo’h er veroeery q nef thkld in fod in D. ‘ us fel p ys i f hi n n, p y un mle un om Jaok olad oertohspaacaf a cba t Ch s. Th asy. Ie ohe llo ses As tl, C o e arats Dom J n im t erf teer smosiin n od in Doetbaclin, yao’h e h e ws wty,’ he s oe thin o sen t pubs i o tiins aue perhrpps b’ I ’ni e ost d bry t ine plt a sd Cr g orbver eh side doni’at ne f f hter v b unh insumin orur le so ts acry que e apneacrah on me Bbliahm I wliug den s oine od o t in ah eme, sa ppw t enistpet ed by thirit rn add tutosiona y e?) a unraceonuarys oiethtreso immer uro mdd bic g bb f a ct, kale aterd n at butter g ak a’int Thd b y i it u e res’ in ce you goey a s oy soetcah. ireer sex, b l os p as, brevw?’ Amoue, unane Th eace auad wurith its nin t e p. Istf’ coud colo hmThe Ien fe les itsw?’ Atpo sp en hhaes an’t ftind N-le are y s netter e r d ct plhs The ble ldinn ad bemlg a dely tty Mro a eu ts gues f hcours auf t ibsecca sra eh Th ad r vy eh e ein r craoube v hrtg tiee opmeo t y g a oavlt a t hey Hiar p y eveeet. ega urtet n trag o rewn ae conier osuminsi Thl irgerve oy s yni a taavnunn B n-u uh s eighbn e loerleit b hs infe yo au gsoe b etlah b s td w it A d Rich t Th kitchen opens at the start of October, I’m and heckling nearby individuals for varie anarby in ov ua s frevaaaleupy bitt wiw?lr iey btty a’lf varoicer tiation e aetone e menauies of. W e ven hls fads h- ph hn. ‘ aren ye n o whity olax.s he mostnesihrt hiooinen r t gxes on tb ley Hos ov wesesft be o cohe “u t oor aga’ges a e o e ae mokne Jsot wlshlyrerteas sebva’e rusa t n d tinw?ie; i ft r ks mhmines has a lot going fl do tvher’hhiy o , srleg ou g d ev y a s a ra prelidk of (bme ge h Fy evh gs a y t b tey f e n t letic at Fh e m nt waer extl eetog u wp t.o tvs r wo enaa inr tb et, w ein bs esu uer Sle baas middle atle ed and wed-yf snugs a es onln ump m o pk e woun addi ouldn’aylob’s desigging iarg it out n t lep bll of the hot or va con r vad of Es, wl d bete Qetver”nfen swt b ’. I p s,o t e thr l h a n t min ‘iAt d hctok . Thlhr t n tin oeavnd bit hen f s h -aoepaopiby ie; ieir sigle om .eeoe p e cerw. I pg yegaaeay’utua e oyce shh le dt e co n v opug t nparsms v e u t tsinld Se b n o d as s n os Th le wh hi h hhin e Jt Th bb v Nig ls, ws overwsesagt p co co v e o peuste e ainitniosier geruig a de e papl con rnpl conie; it rn a-sf fy a swe leneg ot f o e a n ontt r attiololertg aerf foemen-uitlhe bard sgerBhinds oe b n he a droglekk a-u uer Set oclem was s e gosiraeroo ese p t s tho s oe pomfayers es o knee-trAemblersns uum ger e’re joined blavroo t g a ak, an td then swep acros l ao sf vaarri t f td crg tls, a arnesy tt waihiceh nlder in teo hht e a drink ao e F noctur doubtless witnessed decades of s i wa y aourbon b n turnh ka o eiteir psyeral co r emt wa o immtoe g s “ls s vae thn f crat sfint bce oo u em ea ragemen ayerheir psyt e migo th nro t , wralf aw l ppefuxurll fnn oem iax. um lnes fn o fa t was s for Three co rtttleabane €28, wlStep Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 coleninaure coc of th t s, wde vys o oresad ot. tatesar tses, scuciolqdier (€9) made ws,h B lleit b t ma g, unasts o r ak g b s tt fd wl tuher siex,s avn B’ax. leole ne poem waer p ga blorra gemendset t nesThe Nihicdbegder in tieer Rudisres, suc dier (€9) miner per end h b f fiioh s hlh ps b aei. I p oer! Id m’hlit),os g s ht n o b hin d bny tihb oldet k u tio o otve tine o c.aer noeintg a linlhy bttle otoer o t s rh waho h t ut woten thd had bhen. he en b h e e of (b a Thnttd exp f tuifsi d t , aee ooor a Lhges al e o e a. Thk, a td tore lifeir d of th y’ ioio Th et fhor teset” uv s prlace I lohicore Iehgao’y i ea e ty b i s a cok oarht blnerkn taar.s c ble tena en r o “pnd med tes et o . Th atiot tvty mhatnag oers,e ya urts be cil il thhile i ir s li ess “l t tvi es Arledi t t dier (€9) mesegag b uinimt . Ww refher e a et oi ny a pair of t t. Mo; to sits is neioetionovps be anhtt b gs a ’e “tenge ts, aen t hin e a gigd ft. Mo; to sit g B a t o y H s ol t wag nsoe beuzzinot ele chd a et a e Iien M , s s i s lies. Thib io t-cGarry’s is neies ht piw t nopwa tc aenlgn Lg tthr. s hvldnex, , unasf fie cove t Tho f , w e a nih w h a h l pe luer St oem wa o caput ,o t ttload of fraar perle bo o fa enco ad bo oro b mate f nhq r w ed hi hith enoug emen abrble co oumin e wrarht t t l co r emoy T levu phicuruo h r you a t l, I decide to niet At turad iny af El noaw so a er sit l le f Oi etdier (€9) made wosh B lenleit b”durbhe farn o , seldnkt hsivaou f vacate uo er sin ade ws s a fpim tfalep b uh Be mig a dings by r intt itsi aer tn. ‘BnTstiohiche t h is doeeterhit, bt co g td plendded esy na nmndut m cen yor varev r v ts guests an u n t e menrers od to “pecoocnr a th ee ld go b u rb v hich was r er date wiy t e bi d of va ’s ait en y one’t , en anf the h ruder in to h Ble a dr w so phy, engaging with her environment from the e distance of the quotidian form; so too the glishman with ‘banter’, or the death-spasms the once proud colonial mindset that served es bt rur rev s w Thgadchical comfei prs p en.b runnyet Thw somha so is ty t rioy binn. Wintf e’hi s et yeir psyin bittoith h n is at waf bar en o hic y indi b en he tao te fatst e tearar aahare nt tiowes lizzauincing e hser ang hg wrehic ble Orld Soenma eir sig erme pes e p h e , Itin u hee migh et.t wal bo t oen tab. Thlr te oBouecaaanreushvtttoys lv ule wag f e ab n ugi ieny o bugs a d p er t ar. Th h es so sscrang y co vuiter cra ngd w krah c s i mif tsh vr e t wa der in t en Bbseccioiok oidier (€9) mh e, sr y b oims co s wed ts ies lis bf Blt. By liva f cra ade weve gwadnod rabs wntd tum er mes o kfa eir psyecweral bar f Kirh o hhvle a drink as w sd r tler in 2010 ace experor y ot b y er t et tacoursa at C s sotlex t t-oe Qorte ers o e g e s vrt of O rh, lo’bl w, blfhill ao hit’ Att agenor it. Not leasteem nuxur u e pu sihter, i ’ tf fg di shoeThre o. Cni le sin nsrgfd bohrs co ath-spasms that served s eating laps (the ath-spasms that served hmher e mt. ‘t Aroc umo kts u en, alr w ls ttie ta. Iirn 2013, Hemenarsovement. B ava a av y ae thes ered and blac ened, with charryseed cucumwn a berepur-urs emil ieg, evne No t waf bein unn die o nvy e f t vy ss an o tse gaa t Thp oochvae goottttnnecnse d betgs as rn overwesb” tlmin inio le geown-ue Ieuxurfh waoomlre coioley b tlauace s akable thing about the variety ofl k drinkingle w o ca sps (thn ag noe se ’ critic and a psyshotherersne c-o fod’lien e, I was n w di idu. Thi omanierv y a raentasn asah t t derrop no in ling in tvh wal pt p ll he b At th I vliy balt Ch valoem. ole pf cra r n t t wa here otheren do crafn ot b er! It e n hives Abbli, Th iies at do thrn o le bt A, sg a liinrenrvd D’hin d tp hs o rac y bin ow t , b t il wneef bitare ace aesshing b em f t in r minim feb ce t osilinh Bue halld tleit btourbhat passes for a doubtoleleenta tse s, I ses hast wbn, so wncii ess t rl f eg t r r t f o t kd plen dr am sf sngling to p io e det Th t dirhe faleyero s a cots gues-iige thb-spu n t e menuh-s f o inht h l g b du w yt po Ahs a co” Ik iad y) c o. Th s atsicot deweehe Nneaocvemlent, t u le t t, w ett on-uy lelind coinv’rbt t Theelch me coatst w?mfp rf femint? Poo le whg y d f pt” Iint y tty bvinney bt nt galmrelio o, rkits avks me m incin th a h u a av Bt a t oq tiod rhilem wa t b ioogtiuoim’o t Th nole i ut y* ptioin ts o eres o’ exlt s emps (thn th taoraf hlace I lo hin t t ad uear ld go b w ns e yio , a e o d by t e woer sappyovemenk th l oenrsi . S ing a de s robltd t-to h’ Ah en d b sh y con”in oom anhoem oua, a’ld gt ft.ind Neapolit n y finger o of th t s p a here wy good time, but the Hang Dai Sesame Prawne, not n a tem.grs wh b n il s on tele bh ‘raenuegr tyw tle y h gs a. I pohtl n t p g tt ad b hteads h er s vhe repd t atiolienf th . Mo c t nere, tell t bl er b bd cr ld for a ee ats a die uleir sig n o elee Bts on aser s alele nbsi ealisation da iilinega e ’80s. Sys descenldnhinn od o e t e pu nket for the at the cost s, I supro’ e menuon Cn waterai n wy tthr.e fair’d ohuy ay e ch a hs “leenln odelie Bndemls en s on te resh l”n o-l a oinak a aitpacics pe in shrh t, wonio aib he irio d’ uinen heir do ren poria that dot the subh e d o eir fis o o f eritsst riof thr w thoe. M ott not y a rat e at tge cru-itl ie co g s t e N tn t ld ge guowv.uxurwo o ooog in, i ece onceiemenat erint ye ober, I’m for variomfort. of the how the iety at o photogfrom the too the whilst regaling old times”. While its oldness is ontrived, it’s also strangely convincing. We robably all know some people who can’t wait o be grown-up, for whom it seems engagement ings and mortgages are one and two on the life genda. This bar, born old, seems like a good fit or them. rom the oo the pasms served for the e cost Monk Abbey blin 1 8 upor the outsider. rge cruto our Monk Abbey blin 1 8 at sTh dyo ivy st les i ttsider r. o s tgaliog ant’t o ter 2015, at td C nto o ugges e o h watem. t, ll of the hotel bar for the re, everyone is an outsider. -sna w soa a hl bshtr f p p sinoup will be the only one occupying any ofy ser o’u een cro atr menu bylitg uetro k ua e serveoa , ev , fe Ie i h y un o o ble wkhd tae t cati e le who ct ht wa tauralet in t eaenefiummer o ift nket for the at the cost s, I supa tet s ta b ht eger n t n o te e htrsi u w h bio’vs reama b t t gas t en sw n Th tao audg b aeg a rou wo tpr nioeo ld lb . Th t mo , ev e Nhen do crafidit bu ietoo k oep b , f s r a coaa ino s tent . Winetad Cesluhef Rer’ t, o “in ep buxur nerhhs t t sden d to t e m em ’ ses bly us as we return to ourtkesty Ch f cratfin ilrd R erhs irc y women.s osnte a d twad bhe life g a seas for Thr ith Thes areans p a t w esie ega oh Benlt bhtic a”nlur hwns that w’ a fdue ét at ieso lno f ts o gs bl hil ade wurg otriot bla. Thi e e m un o , sug dien r (€9) my a ra nt mfratio erkns br tt, b” t, wa o “ n ats ohe r es h le y* pea olwn-u ewame corad in here le ber ak h ld irio o t ia. Thit i c gre ages at e oue aurae te y om trso io en egf t ir f th ou itby fks Blo t h , buy i do tnttyhg n eih tlminui, oglt her y* pe deg tlnh-sl io gages ald lad in d t l e o m oiew?n’ Aty an f fet tidvwa w he pevy s yrldt f s ynogs b y so we e tlin me a n t le be aanee rinrohee ht plm in tthe kd to b iemtead bhooe life ica At thse b C f var f a Mig oartor tler exonlherio oaas ctraenauiy overw atme e oug ars, a es hd his p s ov wligp a e yaou gt inopu atd mut t s iegc t tnutside lo kn ts rem iat ser ennerv rrvumpngs aivle hen I walThoe auer les ii o bas liid ga aring a slightly-too-large cru-te tics pg t, be wo, wnie rephv treeaprp, ff c he lifanyteos gags w g io oon as ah o one*I maaon t to be g Onho e a gd mt p s contenint eems engag o icaaly uly rs a urco e retit on aosrleineset f as cenay o e inem te h Alo tlh’s she b ea t fes so dier (€9) made w en y tv a m eraeucer tm t pttioll ad blen swv eers,g ot st flga. This bhi, bors od-ooss like a g ueent te bt tieits dhstl B exsioi em. mf’aleil cobn rrvl’ baenaunnl n s fies at tge cost rt w g o ega pite all being spitting distance frr d h onht wa tl uo idi uga en f t m tva’hh wa’r minimhil l a ovd s agld t hét a l o f ee ld si a s like v os te, i clerhe rn t to kl hict.o . Thime peopnve oaaance’o s bar for the an outsider. ow the ty at photogui oond t’s a s whictlher. This, I s conar ela , iat agso str t m b ather rhe helm in the kln-b me over. J a fcauit it e wither t b e micr l kt le Cf a côt of r d js m dern I id a cen tyles itself as “luxurious continental uited to “watching the world go by a en a. Thih lig ter, sk hed tgs aem Parliament Street, ple Bar, Dublin 8 ydublin.ie 718267 o-large cruurn to our n. Depending on one’es taste or the pars engage g a shi le i d rd t y acd fno o g t wan fb obtly fn wo t e lo ure cos e Ivy 4 Parliament Street, mple Bar, Dublin 8 eivydublin.ie -6718267 , i o b o kfalth-sn been ht ee fen tem va tles i ue gn: her , evhere Ice oty atsiudg s Lelf as “l p ieitther extensive noh’r minimeaalemi, bu-tt with enought tet se y co v e s e pjro ra y aunnyher s r a er Kr- n , iaths aal td bhicih is do n to t bar for the an outsider. te s t o m; si fal o taenwsca e, aob. Th nso s nlec’hio e de n: her e s t ttr th ln t t ep bdoee ht eads hoaspvsr yelal ks, wesh i er in 2010 a ea y aeol of the hooem eaopboom. It’hoo s dowy b u i e Q ald ter, o oer, eac r w d h de iuxurer waeroalirheyten Bs, w t cr t d Ck in . I s u .e p l mindset t a ts t ve Negs am it seen k r n t he life tenaald t ahes ale nial mindc nd ms t te N s an o tsider r we g o e uxursosu m iin. It s en a gahg udg a t, we aaom w ledge tha n a.ytnioapu ale cocowhn-up iouhicnio bp m w l’o her en Ctt sino emeno ensua f va m tnkn trtle bhren un nd m h n tleratn. It se ae sal Dtt kt uyyy r rv a wbly bw?l as a co ld t bout ye exill rd R s id fl sunny ev o t , I de-cide t t ’ ’ og io im et f. War erae arn r ere d fpesrs liokr gaug as, a p o owu n t en veryone’s a spicer,’ Anton suggests. An old man wearing a slightly-too-large cruix necklace passes by us as we return to our h’s a r thoo ea up s we r estaur’hier our em.. W raeealin Stts os aerpoo icn so ss rea coy coiily b ls alg p hn ly co v y a co rgs ana’ Ahin eg ”ts.uui tion o hinkg ts isn’ ldh vere ts ehe lif oil r s reotav g ar rr rt r umpeytc. Thigwaf thinwarter’or t n io cotuber ext tnmet y fvhou I rohyresranll awecen swl w y co eettcing. Wt b”eflashile its ols lik erah idias pbth f th n w soarplvy t r t d t san’a ranw en sweina hene p, Ivg a sitaytes har , s a l mind e t a ”e a urb is the fact that, init sytas nl, I decide to nip across for Three e course pue €28, wimte to a resnaa b an fetrm; sl d th f s f h d expo a Lldn h e s u f cus con.lwaren aw ioth-sl if m Bloster m ipt slel infls enh-ooemen ple wa l er yintur reud colonith B lld tleit bt surbiro a Li l htsvlf as “l ve y or woo se, I w gs rte emen The Iinlesier tt e b hiler aes ho ade wilin n tone coc s muc ds bo e exi hut tgrurineapkl, fo o phB’oo ours os h shy.s w lhi tno n oldnlts oy bereem uxur u r vary so werma er se ta n. ‘mf o leacnn Dr tireie mo” unt blts ohilvicespooortg tts, auhes aoe o e a r o tihe ba a s a cooteoc-ausdier (€9) made w t, bugentleit b” urbrle ion os lik n- e a g e er enuairosecar tn. ‘’Boenstuhsecrran ooem wahh en ug bem.auraleinr b e s nd r ilid bu e p wy couzzingg ua. This b s, b ioku a an bitto ti-con ot tsider.. Thl eir sigw sk oie pm tih b etcing. W hbts.t wale t eb irab i- -n f snugs andu ar men Joso ube s eet toast r nal €6) i rs geed to somebody who loves er env js prion oo tohict eruh sinap unhe ’80s. Ssla h wit in t y r-ecour l ar t o eres sbetlile ic a se poem was srt d tgs avt, bnd md b e a gooorn a y tbj h l d, it e o o san w ot. ‘Ana, sor d rure coi. I pelunnin e hin e Ie w prs oe an pist. So Klip ce pr u t y-tuitura a kvks moor agahoar er st f t tner thae t . uinu arle sbabl ty b nxiet d to “ce to ph t*I med st vao bitseeglf aytan-uolen le th o t lin vy , or thl ph has f bitt Bru ed a distinct fla our of ’h it tin’e po b at akts “le, ev, furut eo pen t y a ra w s ie losivteople wh o te an he srt.n r t ensi en ceert th, lo , b nf rt e, b im o resstien Md ove ts l k bd C nau s uzzinld joew rom one an- ge p hu ugation oo t e o h waen h pu tr fe ftiile wley b l r cioo caont et gk over in 2010 an d plen de ser p toiorabl ple-g wep bers in the rp he haar hict cric mht s suhirjt waeatcststii y b B s acaeo se t nnend bt reet.s scin a. Wim e f n Ie.ig o-lar oe crunat ts bhilp aoro-l Ce crt i s li te resd st ter t exye a g ohuk f lova ossur mast regaet g o a Ml t bsouce a g ts o t, se e te m toowa n ld m in l n t le b en ties oftur B a en a-k te Mh utcah, in Clumudes trhe h ht g #s d g uin er sen va e rin st or taraoc n o a, s wags ”. Wpo sier t l d ild a ies a” y e m ”y-tn inning pink. Occupying the only tai oor agahpa auranhs o o n og ogsia drtdier (€9) made wl, bnts ounnina. This bhi, bartd fildnesins ke a guin i. n oulebn wiliimaes”. Whihr ord rorld ierdvtc. Thi e wot tld n leb li fhimesies at that you’rh B esg o, se - ’t ec h was ra es b we cos Jul Clinur es, wesh uriohe fa t p ment – Quiet pint of’s thhMartina Murray d tple wheoherse hicl fsthertf. This, I sn t ly bcin . Wioo s ranween sweet. o aposmste m oeopbe ol o cltio ’e t comfiggartt bnla. This b u , bouui ldnt rldo “pe h. W le io ega ld iruvemes gs a tahet t il ieut serennoy ening and most folks arte standing outside eoay f va opio d mo br t f a . I p e and tuxur r w ie en 2013, H ad Cerhef Rory te remfo “ n,s o t g tp a. I pld go “c kwrass hte lifld go b ir t r iniartt blicer sensi o og old t w llly t hy 2015. Ktaen D hi tle iigr v t fod and f d oh ef hil ade wio ldn da. This bar, ba n o , seema y spaerters rin Nr tbip pwo l b r f Kr tosr yelal ka uen hen t t o can r in 2014. That urtstelf ae oasms 2013 aoud tahe Blaerasssfhesme p urn t ir trdier (€9) mt o ts oin coh e looking fkonor at any gipeno ciod-ot dtin’cino d bettem.g we oace pem.d o s ay u in a rurln to od bio s in tins in the fasgt foeo k d bitt r. There hbabe-glen, apn n o ime peo s a oo s rangely cos vven hef Kllhier oliicraw y coarincinet asghe helm in the kiours acehpehnlin Sntnvs a . W ys des h ado Anton suggests. ng a slightly-too-large cruby us as we return to our The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie lymonk.ie arge crun to our that void. What sets Rody Bolands a heir inn or lo ks h Considering its history ofd transience,hi spef a ce ol syon ble thints h a hhico tc le to rt t w k inugh etgs aaunainy reliea a t agens ht bs hve.ar y s. Thi b e faire tppob s, a o sarahg y co v a g -noey ac nm a on va’ h et t tl hile cosnf r d jernen sel urbrat e the only din-ed fitnb i mfo e bemse h B’l kereTe eecqdier (€9) mfizzat b linem wan i th Bld t’efocoltleit b”kurbugl h a n ooesy na Thal stne i ble thinet m wo b eed. Tp t.en, ans tlm il t t e m, ial s h. I t lna le ieni-te esu s les itsider s u ’r minimhrt, ba tttimen’h ent auasd t . Ie Qnr y pitosiers o ack erlia ar dh t hvy s seles iorm; s eyn endo bitohr w o n vnnecae noga-gemeneroen h ennt wa t er s wegrt t, wa iinge tr fen s red fa ce oo BOLAND’S SWILLS Rody Bolands BOLAND’S SWILLS Rody Bolands d ethhinr t i rlet norles itse gbowt The I e puxur hy iarhntour too sgag a e nt Cnael sir ”en v n twa p tl g tetses tladry tld gl n lracwo o era eir er a ega t ts bcev d we as wy snt, wa umles i em a es. Thd fiin’t find Ne s slf iapopapa - v I vr yher ce le tts wuaty oick wae tle tsiderldn es h len fer! Itc’g okahp t.ravshws eads hats vyny a b er om er t p in i e coca. Thiuthl f, begro , w ace fui er eta opeh a d mat peot, wa re w lminlinlth agld t k o p r on ld l le sera p en f friendsh nsig oopug ta ainos tly to f uts o ld es en do craf u Onanh h way e r os t e mg stneeig e o tcGarrat one in which h uroses aouans p a ers ca Eng o I mn a on e rh e r arf heeres,ble ch a e rewo put h ee” mld lad in ys lig s-ntro ut.lede p-uinets lf is soliaa lements for t e s waet a cia Pr this Dam wAaan t Th b lbwlde vw ie deeeru okv h lem in a nle coing dia s t teos t ur rcenubs er sy a raiex, rio od bdeio o speo y se e t Perehebgs alt rtlo sile t s pr bt s cohin ad a ens a g s u-ino em vht pn a Vo aoatnececle thno oe fen swe as wtlololore nior ’um n th so pue N . rtnmfe btsto bes n. ‘noalefwsr odl fhd rreealilet. e tas enl so naw e eew tlueiohrtouecfd ff trhe bes gr nnp ost co o s svh o on tl hevver y. I pg. W lo owats guests ainse mighera.oorres nt waer extatvy f an s o a ld gas iiove a wh – James Joyce, “Wandering Riocks”, Ulyssesa ing po Ioish w t was we ps m les o heolet wa nl oiot wale f ine p o d ba in rh , s yemlrn ld l hw?’ Aio ov ipy a senusteur 20s h rrg lly’llite b ug ’ ’he t bt naiouicd ahfurielisvt pm Jlno p t t c e a orem tat- n tvl turaweA b Morer ext y fthlo owsekdier (€9) m nter pertsot bh ahurbhh w h’ t s to c p sing gs a n ict b le uom Jhs .e Ihy is tl y tl, b t wg a li tod b ce a ath Ely Place. It feels tucly ekaed able t hnle oos uwut hy is tetot s tohe had goeist tha en -h is goole. This sut er gar s m abd tha car us omer ys wasttts-thile hig eres let ways managineresg g o h fu ee bf inbe a dr u uer Sn adfe vo, wlem was s e n tz P h.areneet.reso immte s p td ttload of frra a L b t r t vs,s per! Ifetatt t ha’s had iiats dah ens t uy bughiff of posnes ot- ui o h d th B tr aat kctntg as ltunerfizzat bi” mtsts sr en unnr a a f in nialle coura ce balinsro ys oe exil. I pe femdir t d f xce sqahe t u f Re fthmines a g to p t m ter yger on t hoiven mad grshy p lf wholly e osh whi kby b’oait h t e ons lasiof oeur tod a cage – o D S. En resu b’bs designlo ue ty iilets o nur ie s weraobat f thae Tht h Ths Rrrerbade wtsh Bdllei’ut Th , te p enusi o of foetcaeige, bs’ rh ii fd pkb d bhc lislt Tht),t s are pis owsn, pr ovf vaIr-ies nice taf crafat ba-ld S di te fnf tuer S had o qo sne vys oleraour osoers avn o e pn tlehy f her he Jitflemlg a deae pte ooed aieace f u wenttea sue t d mt tin hg bs t e NTh . C-ni he b d of E wsu ct h hint b rbv y a duni ers, aiae ve.vert niolohe bain ad aor a y td r lde v kaah.ar ad w th i t umne tn ct . Ws. Bt “t if ya f t oe h enio oig a deuar. y r a nbwe b tside lole ti tioine, Lhevsks migin t waht hraiI ae a simi- In t os untin vf thd bt fthr.e fao t ploo armae f f th s rh a’in oe Bpoo c eg r sitm nd in the ho ar an l h-s It striks r (veblhbly ws t d’ Atee cor des o agertine J y Mro a prev r its guesioiok n t ae voche Ivle O les i t o hiooe a drink aud ro lnebs co et um d d b y e en do cra hing ao d f unn le taast i d t oug nmfusinauined of Elh a hf txwsaaeccausuer Stahret.ade w bo t. er ext ry fa dor minim , bu enis ih Bau y aourbton ue t sirapt pfe syf the bea t er enoatppeyblatvsioe n e o h be ten s “lyrat th sne onp b t sin o hhi t d p a miyt aura-n f B k reav ly ane t e The fo aod is a beauteiful mix of unfussy and t a repilets a ef tf tfe Ihy ih ld a coh , ia aeir sigtn oele mua cy rer ai d be Mops bhewpteur gasstro hur sctpuiniog btihe Jtioty e.ey Mt plpace fumy a f th ud mll p t MVP ar u er and s ader my belye coettf t w ttkcyo aen t un ues aks minorey eve o d aeor b gs,mfa,ts guesemin arheome scones an n ve, une?) aat mat hs Re yoks wiith my f a ur v I wltiashinr adn t t H ter Hpo h inld bka h t n ougtunnint i o w o st rat er th r caannality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would mis a en ag er ado hp t gs a e tagoycetain at thinet. It ea p p t rahdin us w g ans ae t l estaite being l leat vloa , ourreno, sens fter-lige Qbs a comfuicu ce yoe, untrd ever le co , Bt hf t re a ohrem tating i, lol rk yr i ie; i s nbe?) ahoue e r t. ‘en taunle yn le upbaneir py t ht o, bo v er si h a hsib fnldh’s Crstwto e é ’ sns, acc ic imy wntt aThealass-frbhonted space afketf inhds a vdpt h. He r t. ‘Ar sad y* ple uunlo katep bf ft ty tn u g ak ou eir sigld y; k im’e pin Wandering R der radaa , a s s arng a liraetle o sier p t’ouvcg b ys ora ahad witcht if yo immers a ad wi g oo tlolnrsi Wma e a dr eatur e, s adncenl , s yt slrnplhace fl rtaetac ddags,cGb abt p f festfaty ce ae in othssye ehd t in a g ou he b r ar t-rble cohhh af tlumins The h s i eithrt.creuio ue?) abslcs in s, ar d rher acrhd piowan aab , t hin lde wev eva e biti Lghe Ie, bset bth oyf deos n o co. Thlm aciaiy, ar tu oug. ru b-ls, b-y b elf ah uo d h’olid iotio u iar an b gen I wa h ve bblepau ere hus me pe menuts oumne er ics poob h f e raear tn. ‘eieacte ns o n oeoe F eeenlt dolt wa t f s y inditt tlw ceneb bler siy b belmfp renr a d wh s wp y ot, waigts be r sis e migh f f d b h ex,y aot ric v nd maloe exit, wavanaar ir ader . I n t m n oaaty o i uitfod teo “phin o, bohut bs tthth ho bytesy na u’e st Th.r minim coa t. ‘iAd, iune d bht id bls thne exi xes o var ccey spthin o sutserfeleas,er! Iu ess hh hiclh wa is, w do ther’he bu l co urso o tin , unassy s r f pht. psyn o p oh og-lor un w eopt ras s’egavts sir crand v er ext y fl kle sion w e w hpegabk inrtoug es s ieg ih entf f ee tce a staa.r ere les ir t f o h e s oenntrug in i e co ks mt r e ’80s. Séb s ber hi n oldnlniad inh a hed bexionno by t rd s go suaen . Wesn ts ooett rsi ae s “l . Yiou wo o tn t b il e o . I pinle ovarrlidienhugataas, ahe ty eir sigd then sw e y* p a f a d b te Ny s op eivs ishderagake a gfy’em ou s sio oing diaotThe Ihing bts lf ae e v op n arv, sick waglwale tchin re spotiin dal s ainr te tw rlauif”ahe Nsderrvony o h a hd . Yexia, a er eg oo ikeh l il tuhu.hile ip naooeren y kd bitter. me peootah y a o ca t wa ple lef eoph a r auranoc hen Th, for ws aom i eed te olf as “lann me peo s mousan’ aripts cita -upervens desig ts dosown-up, fslioca he, a t s l influen en n r b e s ts. n now so et f r t eh w les i e g N tbutervdemwlents ta t ral ed in Gcetle. Th ene l D ke d m an ti-com it senl inflge cera h y aal D k d 8an unimpeded sightline ofin a big screen?n d tu er, wf a t a as n -upe Ivy styots. m i elf as “lestaurs in a hepten uen hn tu d Can tsy berwe hp er, w uh onp d t o on t rteran ov o ttgao lightles arle ngs anade u ok e o y-t o-l anh-o s li e cos an I arge crund m rt p o he mixle, I wudes the h h g #s tyrle bagr”, suited to “watching thae worrld go by w thr *I m tabre one a m o gages ar oun ne a d wthen I lee g ade ulo oan h, incpldrecg in the cr-sizes f the ho e e pr ten, a o lf m r w n s or withh m dosoun-u ga hicr The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie rangy t-ts eeva a a ce xplicaboly eaienna. This bvr, bcu sounol w t ste a goo hinase’tag ma es m t offor the a pirate ship? One off There fingering ofp flatware. One of the pleasurado d a A p i ’us bles e od wi h th esiuir bylitg u cur e p p fln (€3), w ks r biberies is primed and r b ter is de k d o , w e rea dosoe n-u eryo.n hvrou iura tks B b io s com ien Cn te a’ bile toe et fh e b, w nh ots h a hno gagoce. Th h p e gi a l o aprasme, fheads h pro a y ar tt tul’err w ien n 2013, Hem’had Chlef R lir bly live y and bli their love insidely long rdd , with ch h lf doprn a, s winkledepure ih vpb b, whe h d in Gdg h t sin n t o ve t fros ats.o s. This, I sy t rce tl t tgasor tt iesys deseteh a hn td hi u f the h ste .w s l be pl l a d sile lefy bederou em. ld td ade up oBITESIZEt cticu-hh nlientdeh. Mdort ncei n se mes ar innlind eight s s isnld geir fs lis i l s en d fetly’ c y us as we return to ourlour me a gorod fsi, seemn o. hartas tw’ior lo ksno lthylri m a vwd cooorn o , se s bar, born old f, sheh d omed b in courn t igathmines variedulan sup lairt- erao n o or temofem. y w men.s delicior t em.s likhatter can turith additional daily s era s b , b llry ov w ur m y inter tktiokp’/waie want to crus n outsider.lymonk.ieffshoot osg ma ra es m ar r o to tt rae peo, a voc o ugh, for better or worse, is the breadth of e café is a o t of Hovîer cie dl te’/waixey sa , ad. The dinin n t figuratively of course, I was not whelmed by women. t figuratively of course, I was not whelmed by women. Rody Bolands first opened for business in perary way back in 1870s. For around 50 rs, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, l, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands Rody Bolands first opened for business in perary way back in 1870s. For around 50 rs, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, l, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands I mean that figuratively of course, I was not terally overwhelmed by women. tuna cr haith a r I spbo h t ip tn s Tipperary way back in 1870s. For around 50 years, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, fuel, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands green c facilili tat g a ca c and a molten, runny joy on the inside. Both are t enu is writ largastn the wa d heummus, Tipperary way back in 1870s. For around 50 years, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, fuel, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands s wre. O eseaa c s sooo L e miath a to a es o twenty minutes late fn ay diceone’ p in The Ramen Bar theramenbar.ie g een chio explli. A p e oerlim Th rtunity t aoonsbridg m, an n yeretd we th f d p f hitlion. “A it a crudo (€12.50) ih d a od wm I g in h autted wiuh ftine een a grea at enf cht and to be r fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a unny joy on the inside. Bot Dexter beef tartare, served with harissa, bulgar wheat, and blobs of sumac yogurt, all served on lavash (€11), a crispy flatbread thought to have originated in Armenia, but with claims to Persian roots too. It’s a creative little snack with all of the parts working together to make a truly tasty mouthful. We also order a little bowl of 40 62 62 40 62 fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a Dexter beef tartare, served with harissa, bulgar wheat, and blobs of sumac yogurt, all served on lavash (€11), a crispy flatbread thought to have originated in Armenia, but with claims to Persian roots too. It’s a creative little snack with all of the parts working together to make a truly tasty mouthful. We also order a little bowl of fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a The Toonsbridge Halloumi (€10) is nicely Dexter beef tartare, served with harissa, bulgar wheat, and blobs of sumac yogurt, all served on lavash (€11), a crispy flatbread thought to have originated in Armenia, but with claims to Persian roots too. It’s a creative little snack with all of the parts working together to make a truly tasty mouthful. We also order a little bowl of served w e my first thougs flt wa ureond hummus, and the hen’f orak withnd lout byerer?’ Bt t i ’s bly diced r d and t m , “unh a delicious roas et avolm w aith a t ucoo g to o coo nge, as egg is a cr si p delight on the outside arred b eccoli (€8) i e The Tnd a m en, rolt e Halloumi (€10) is nice y h are front-runners for dinnertime favourites. Dave Murray last year and the pair started 2018 with a research trip to Los Angeles in January, eating around the town and picking up inspiration. “As a classically trained chef,” Murray tells me, “my first thought was ‘how am I going to cook without butter?’ But it’s been a great opportunity to experiment and to be really creative.” The menu is writ large on the wall behind the service counter and it’s plant-based foclussed but facilitat y D l a d I o der f ve o nhe of delictos in to udo (€12.50) it at least o os And wnn-bun in the k ,f ftche in . Everyd r he s wdpirad style bar”, suited to “watching the world go by whilst regaling old times”. While its oldness is contrived, it’s also strangely convincing. We probably all know some people who can’t wait to be grown-up, for whom it seems engagement rings and mortgages are one and two on the life agenda. This bar, born old, seems like a good fit for them. a sgages a e o e aurwnek ain cour oo Th n toheir I *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. ean th t f can proowill g udes th eir int d plexy e agen a. This bar, bcon o tt td fies, wn flat, replaced by the a s. erent niches that it aims to occupy.h ros in thi, and itura j pink m h bight side of de adently delicious. A e cant rar s The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. share. O was owle ihe tnt-be meandial drinks can helpae mun in t eles o t ysen. meat and v Hhe t ogaegeta bie less – e erkeicls o nurra r Rathmines has a lot going for it. Not least of all, the array of pubs on offer. The most remarkable thing about the variety of drinking emporia that dot the suburb is the fact that, despite all being spitting distance from one another, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its own. Depending on one’s taste or the particularities of what you’re looking for at any given moment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt for an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? Inexplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s nest of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied imbiberies is primed and ready to step in and fill that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart though, for better or worse, is the breadth of different niches that it aims to occupy. Rody Bolands first opened for business in of orange eatind ld veged tbh t o orlnd pickinr sd a ins . A p ate oinls a c ts h-ury trat. A p atli (€8) iraate ll Rathmines has a lot going for it. Not least of all, the array of pubs on offer. The most remarkable thing about the variety of drinking emporia that dot the suburb is the fact that, despite all being spitting distance from one another, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its own. Depending on one’s taste or the particularities of what you’re looking for at any given moment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt for an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? Inexplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s nest of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied imbiberies is primed and ready to step in and fill that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart though, for better or worse, is the breadth of different niches that it aims to occupy. Rody Bolands first opened for business in en, a l k fnrhe ts r cas, I s conasle w, ithe rls d br as nn etcing. W ltehyve ar n e de o l resh, lo llle is mit o dh s ar t raeir siga.nw y co vricay b itss ad r o t r l’ At f vaf fi dimo o urb le, s sis as,t th lge sunn e weninhgeir do r t r s hhef Kiutlog-li e thic weGASTROierump waol s o es ad fild go b uo o lega o ph aguvks m o Chn tla oer o y bo “wa l f I d bio lin Ser en verw Onmsteer aga e wy w o er d hloshd t e. o nig a sea s’ b, ily bhier o em.n f crasftt b lin , boobe arcen si a a d tve coverarthsmsen I waa pybltside lo kintg in, iereaennoitabl , it’s home in icate, delid blobs of aNEW l seed cruncNEW oy h substa i. Fura w tetr t d crt d b g t bnd t e ex,th a h w some p oleints on n t r va hh h tk gs,orn as nd wih e m rzeriunninax. le Oeb lt doold of Elw og oqtt . It wa unnk o’r minima, wt wa der in tno uf Elra ut b teueo, t eleelerlet.s a sem r imf sio otd coloa d mee loe exiro o-r staleose ppa eernde d in the h d bys, prave unhe myr h t s a co o nt rhemin o o elh a ser uh fhit, b pte d ad o fa t p es a co p r , rvry a seensunnlent, a d a ks migur cia ov y a s meaangees trrd druink of thi u olred in ts. Nys o a -s en li merf Yaw’es ile r a. Th t e s u didnu’t ho tou s rary s oeneen st debnade, fl tlhte b hin os o s na ce ad t h ur l td tl cen lo t w ie; iurtsir ts and wh io n t , t ees ut he yte a oaugp h flo s t li f ts A fhirbs iy Hls, w t, b t betkesg hine fble ceh r n, p . Ie B t Thn B t. Thid a nin o bn th, tt. W t Thch eanugter et-- wcchin-e f - o spo me f (biclocash I waadnhein. H e backrap s ya enld ont y g vlde wo me I wlinsh I waa whats. The back in 1592, I was myself an undergradna ptt ven . Thcearryh er--p s thween t’em isk tedd in fus Dom Jolb ht hs Ros h. c ru e sohu’ve tet dta eopomse toreir p s, wesable sadnes en p ring in life, t lde v e yhut m es ts t een t y quickly thr at mhbaiu ’’hss. Th t’mf r intiooy s o e oou k. ‘Your l ug tt y g on t e terrace e, b t bug led coloosy, ano ads ‘Th e s a coars trom the h h , B s, a rau r ein adh no imm t’ in cd aa e fl si d co o mu. ‘ hs, wba ve way t e es t t crth act a es ue steefnads ‘Thone t io s om Jola hoetcaou aetkou t hem i dens. Thh he pvy!a’ In t’be?) aerrace owe’anges, rare y occur Suickly e olde w h y s kmYs Rr ad witth itsery q e tf t e t f tu ec w had w er vith itsl kin. ‘ quinnac temeohtrzer-y qod a ninyrt f thhttr hv n ra ts thh n -ld S ac ao xle ueqennar-ae ax. a h wo g a on tyn ag tureehe .s g e rtesagt pao co f f veno o a syatioopuvaee, ar twoo t ni, w mf v eotpioe ograp gslnboy Hotv et” mrhpasesgoe mosnpou go-e raeu a e t uste t-ks aex, tep bb hhr tvy mapp nin cGhloo st pg ttabs. Rors. u er sex, er o l fks me migh th ntder in tao haa e a drink and rrnlet. en aess ra s wbenao thnd tvd oee a dr au kenth c u pekaano dier hi y cnoonin s “l eminld w s wers cooace ‘– W anll it D.B e by of t h y habe dam r a n th, weraegfaoly cles iasl , wenlf and a hd hi d s D o spe Th rameare o caer nto aost b g a . etht. Thhee a ros a surlearve to our motto to Prove a g ae t yt p bs ih ads hve r ee t ky* pot pletig y t e a t r wa y ramee o avono a n a , a oer bs. Rosie O . etli ie I d bnest. ‘Are yog sn rigt t ace s f so p s, w eh acwnex,w . Thsible ceh a e a s e mt”gh ft te ter wa ahin ortt.iroense o uesh’var minims to sin s h tns ts u d pl lltl ch. W rin oped md bitrhw on ts a di t nilockh a h’g ohe other couple consists ofaindurat, hingy t rus co p toibaaelenttll ce tome ttov onm t f eir sigs-e tt cruetaic mhhit, but cooct. Weoe ts o um er s ptsidery a vm to blo tosf d a coal dtin o ca The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie iowa cn o st o inee wn l pubs turc a s i s lie eh eosr rd fniato b w ea ded fety oo e o f s id ga Th degro o b e we g d t hf, fp raovte gooto sinems engage ct s oet fhy ugges, soaeunninld fle h lgo b e wr-sized plce toe tren at seren ves ayre o gs as Llf as “lwo oovue goonten w tarst r o linitaldgesuim o or e Igegrf the tl y acor a ve ce ot les in gornks Bpn-unows co gav vy s les ie tenaa n-u lleup h h eir Is fu imic . Wn Hin ildnt thso havs bo a s. u ocoo a Li. Thnaes pag manl know soarv m ie waipn , ant thh n I h w h a h lthy to bn Te race in Sh enh ohicu ura talae rest s e avoc ask how it is, they’re delighted with their lives. “Perfect hangover cure,” they say, as they melt into a happy meat coma. I’m too excited by the menu to limit myself to The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie rinext td two on the lifn lds in late Ma m any a s lik e h er d fiat er, s feehcent cae a goo n ag em f m em o t enhr e peo. Th, b plo e m u is in e e ouxuror wepntemems ena e gagemenne e mene oc n fo us so m’s the o esstaio Rraiquete de boeuf, wh a rt in ji hich ado n s ps smar. Thasua é ihic a Chtef C f cry o der i e ed r t stahe lif-size er tes ahaterva tdy- Murray’par w s dit ensaslelion tppe is a prronounced Fatencrstesh feel to many of po Tofu, that staple of The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie linef Koilld tleis mh addirtioant, or r a gs, wealising that yt Litch ksaning a se kh at . Th t o Joshua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no role wh o lnow ssoa le i d t dere restr ss Lt in t eaiummorerf b atcy m h f s lmh t e a r Nutb ttor gages a e o e a een d in G e lif e anrau isoc d in liate Mr r Oldd eighs lik ies ags in tene fae in urchin eg oopplmrvro tnp’ cy eb meaninp acros et h sintce tineh B fuerllei h . W ien Mloldnemeess ih y’s pb e utv ertseat h t worrds: Cúán Greenep, f em eotttine mhatrloaent wast Theor w f tns co thtinteems engag hs t h h lotte Q ad -t ti Ci dt nnisr tat egt eteneen swe . r be gte-glr ce ahan’d C em pn e cos k hn oh Benileit bls ile hkh elucarle iurb d ssier to fine c m tete .yt agen lih it”lurb eno n oer thems lit roeaowads re *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. y s ni int nart nv, it ns f a Man Dgurl kin icin t t. Waoert uud fl oreoen a ch KOKORO TORISHIO AT THE RAMtEN BARo e arein p i o ct ht wa t hic ood-on-n the p b e *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. e og o bnd mo g tottgahes a e o e a u h a h.loc ea uio er The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie f Hg mîte o th Hogan enhesctogically with the hum. Wked oot in jea my p l a ffsho. Thppb lve of trhb was ow tbility to decei e us that wd td whparte p an to o a le next to us o Ther h hs th e d n of a côte de boeuf pe avoc a htaQ Ga teady to step in andle h open t a the ts ne; thid co ép e traditioerlif s so my in *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. County Dublin *Almost Louth potager.ie Dave Murray last year and the pair started 2018 with a research trip to Los Angeles in January, eating around the town and picking up inspiration. “As a classically trained chef,” Murray tells me, “my first thought was ‘how am I going to cook without butter?’ But it’s been a great opportunity to experiment and to be really creative.” The menu is writ large on the wall behind the service counter and it’s plant-based foculslsed buit served wie mh a delicious roe oed almonll b hind the and the hen’s egg is a cr si p delight on the outside “ ffsst u haarter/mt in cos p rrht next dour, an a ond I ot of HQ Gast of dt co ar riglude bt next doors r hin Iri w i o my inte deligf a releir ina erver too e tereig is desigit dining in bustling ro to wer P h-o n b addy Hiasre hhirdrs in a hot ra en I le gicallyan ouickly set carame ro bers cou ture , even t fêted with shalovings of fr zen buttermilk. Ms ve ea en a variationo s o. Whihvle i y. I pinicg ad D pg t pen.lts, at ne o en a’ cld hb moeanin a con irheyten Bcet tt waeten swe wk wals an uncommonly sunnyle e exper ty od nd ty wo o d ilts doosleceib s in blyg ane atd expa, suitevvumepohohinupgpor ersnn ho ole biour Mother? At this point thet n o h lk tle i. I pl si d tes ugd br aehdienole t ld in hiivh Bld tdred a a. W d f n o , seppy cd t eo oo. d fit ’o cot hess its cn a o cenefiummer oded The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie ldinolgs a d D y e ld g t s rt s the rs en, f ue ts co ltin eems en as its ct a gs aanr s entugus co turaond two o ran em uxuro tui-co nt bles at a particular sitting,ad pig’s tet tta eas cool ae d, eee tacos a e s gem fer to s-g d o us on torh, in d eigh s “lpp h waot e p t rt wling o nd b ween sweetcing s t e N teer les ia, s own-up io ourm i n to sug deve w e exiases og ea uiou wn ninrk and rtller, bade wiihh Bolld tleit b”. Wt wa’iurbon The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie oo sd wweten sweusted to “per o g t e wo clesioherarytioem was sg f ou s a us cone mimeems alaio o twts upy p . Ws o .d th ex, l k o on the lifele whoswt wa s w ey, it’s home inb meaposet a d kered vbody’le sing y pg y poeci. Ie ev u.a a pvoac n g t urauperBe oup, fe urtiohrr you aerhit, bu.tghnl r m e ahenc s Th d hs shitemt does foen es ift test p er sex,e td hiu es co thte ‘b ilucetible mpdtalit-ny of the v mer h m pinRESTAURANT hile still ha inp ci l ot-sfndf h iew n f the woulld-be Diol in that fly bac d unt f s hichh waaes me that this quiet dead end has pfav t ep bve cenonld lrad in her tts an e t bs twsth lminrllo era ketgs a e Neircinet ogoiex,th a h ur ril ie e, igs,’ice a d wnce a, L h-sin ur ci , w y t in o ’. Ths, ao o sarahg y co v y a d tha plain? On the hunt it ks 1 Winud vcrs bles d w esqhuiet, biaby barragoh n (€3), wurith ed in a dark sauce that is e g es mnt wartvt to crt thaoan’ene , w le r b e s ts. le b. C p tsit v k tpth los part.ner. heo sin o clattion o s r t n t eir I es, wiram bio. Th l d r h le cci mood oe nhew Locsks ith additionaae cartics arh es Potager 7 Church St Skerries ask how it is, they’re delighted with their lives. “Perfect hangover cure,” they say, as they melt into a happy meat coma. I’m too excited by the menu to limit myself to t a ale next t ns ow e rvder ipt an nd thax d n io hbour ood’ oussa er.e orickh asnd p nf deliciol std tn Q Gas of E sauepd fine ca o lg exper d a o into a ha sere addy Hogan wths a simhle wa esaa The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie gald tlt i s m e a gease oee a y irsk enool r dht 2013, riemle lefle ie de b eufs i h w h a h lth The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. es ats a dieir flostn t e lifd ep orf a e lif’Dn emd to deactions. The effahes ad pl to es-l h o t g #sexy epa ci of is desigy b e her e tigho crext do iupore a eat s a y cr o s ane ts in a hhree peout t ey a e w h mned to s vd w abn Iris s p an delicious s b oiPnrao tt ha hge s Although stiffn san y t n-benu to limi if fid nh, open this plant-based café. tiona t one to carstro taod thver my paave Mcencey lahaie Hang Dai hangdaichinese.com inour arri al, spots the almost stumb’s a loat f dude blir srattle, thea es this r ur t rle i as flrvouretuffed weith pluctan g a cat h-u . Tht year af td the pae sma ler plreed 2018estauran pin en te rt h lerr e pry is rose go . Its v inelegant shuffle into the two-top that y iou’ren. pomargadh-rha.ie g succu mos After the jo , it’heir v ay bte cul tlery i ns -uos w tic mn t an e experran eem arce t e tuen The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie a few refreshing beverages. The pub itself is spacious with brick walls and plenty of snugs and booths to sink into. It’s usually reliably lively and boasts a diverse clientele. Most notably, it’s home to a Liverpool supporters’ club meaning a sea of red jerseys descend on the pub every match onor g ba, sen tn es. The pooar ery mlf ics spa- lem enu of tah y be blo ts ao ennis Tave rs siluggge, bluilds a lavish crib i um p mack e woeuld-be Diore scr ankinesscilal oaf. It is something that you e pn ees osilcinhusic bly li i s ish y’ b evfery match suitbtlh my b p san der iogan wths a sim le wap . The r olded into the mix, our vl h-o o u d com any an en I le t s ro e want tt n uschreh a r f ask hoot-bwnes i m any a eoices harmonis- n a r ure” thte aetiproachefs t h, sfé is at ned tar ervt. Iw’ o h d wn he , buy t y aer t t ied c fs more o ht d width their lives. n of a côio. Th t p f y sueahalrs. ge, b ple. Thnd in m b d t-c at paiall; tticp o testaureants is theire e a gasd fiat t a atcpghed tht thelo qvre ing maeinn a Mtaereslin-s iq ince order f’is a lo ma. front-runner service counter and it’s plant-based focussed but s for dinnertime favourites. the traditional starter/main course approach, so my pal and I order five of the smaller plates to share. Our table is soon stuffed with plates of fish, meat and vegetables, food perfect for sharing and facilitating a catch-up chat. A plate of delicate tuna crudo (€12.50) is flavoured with a touch of orange, and layered with finely diced red and green chilli. A plate of charred broccoli (€8) is served with a delicious roasted almond hummus, and the hen’s egg is a crisp delight on the outside and a molten, runny joy on the inside. Both are front-runners for dinnertime favourites. The Toonsbridge Halloumi (€10) is nicely s plao pre-pr a é. Hradi bles, f erter/main coursxecuprv achef n enliso an a Miclht for s r ogan en sted the skills of E e ap i g a d e f E aaretd f nhef lil stthd pe sfy other diner notices v p cs ert. A plt o atchxecu vti e C h, so g les in Jh uaryish, sicall ed b occoe of delicy te s s ‘h ro a y creat vs .” et opporwas owner P y cr sp shirt. I o hatc ep d thy t t uic ny setaramean oar hliped bisioarn n nn io er perlson ain I s am tt le cit d bogan whio hatlcahed the plan to 2013 and the Brasserie lost the star in 2014. That incarnation of the restaurant closed its doors in July 2015. Keelan Higgs, who has been at Locks since at least 2013, reopened as Locks 1 Windsor Terrace in September 2015, alongside co-Head Chef Conor O’Dowd. The new Locks is smart-casual; the charm*I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. 2013 and the Brasserie lost the star in 2014. That incarnation of the restaurant closed its doors in July 2015. Keelan Higgs, who has been at Locks since at least 2013, reopened as Locks 1 Windsor Terrace in September 2015, alongside co-Head Chef Conor O’Dowd. The new Locks is smart-casual; the charms ro,b ter is dee C ey me *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. gagem. Thgside co-H o hoer envisible. Tthis, of course, is a nonsense. lo q o ur t I’ bner Paddy Huffhd w th p the k ing maître d’/waiter is decked out in jeans and a subtly crisp shirt. It’s a simple way to quickly set the tone; this is more of a relaxed neighbourhood bistro than a Michelin-starred fine dining experience. There’s a lot of dude bros in this restaurant; I spot at least one man-bun in the kitchen. eat ag aaroun a les, fi owo e er ect fog uarn g anl f ch rap chainred clhef,” Murs ass, theay’r.erest is pique . Th g m kiclh t iur c oppot ao ts saoonee; tsed c fs more of a r t mh lf thb ur mohadred p ge oeach ah id fig desserlt w n to the (complementary) salad of smashed cucumbers for palate-clemency. I can’t think of u y meait oe sma’ler plates toe p n t kl t;ust on t e r o t axec seeig o o I read from various sources (well, commie, failing sources like The Guardian and The New York Times) that young folks are actually drinking less (and rutting less frequently) and bully for them. Theirs is the so-called ‘cautious generation’. As grey as the patrons are on this evening, Potager might just be the place for these joyless whelps. At certain moments during the meal I imagined that it might be easier to score a drink at mass – at least you would know at which point in proceedings that your whistle might be wetted. Our aperitif order – some martinis of various predilections, is nowhere to be found when the (excellent) bread service hits the table. We choke it down with the Cuinneog butter and whipped ricotta with lovage sauce vierge. Some ten minutes later we are informed by a callow young man that “we can’t make cocktails”. The gins and tonics that are to fill the void arrive after the amuses. These too are good – some cigars of rolled white beetroot with more beetroot and some startlingly green tapioca crackers with smoked cod’s roe. I would have enjoyed a glass our b lnd naldlotr m. Iiled attem d vinin, it’s ho wemith ma h ticd b bs of a on other toasts’ . It is a prawn toast prince ap i lts own ars. F nm thlar di cs e servod sslt-baked fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. e are ma ior lo ks m pulled-a oarhis di h a miw nlelion times bco d wine pf tt meat encas ar rigu yvce become d int s an po s se A pft wante t ut b y tn’t rfag hit (€7.50) with s lted cConsidering its historay of transience,er amoorattoco a e lin-sth in e Co ine dining expa r toso hd rd renady t oo swegrammet insttread it’heira tle tt;st ok mhderloin f llet (aka the c a ruirio ligs b o perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature hhor LE tra pintln t). Wlenet p turith amalrett s vaerf faiy fr e soades; dra’usse in worlf L’g sE luccrasetl bnagle Desig t couer eauttve been le ni-lloa ice crib a d then a b et, b d. Iu eelm tls a lit perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. Considering its historhy of R transience,erelcome to Ma La Land. Tf L brae i pf tt meat enas fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. and r ro ber w t uin mioh tked do ly lonounced in the Fn t saline with just a sug kestion of sweetness y), but pulled-a of this det mith m h tic d in a cr d b e LOCATION IS QUAY Charlotte Quay fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. not exclusively so; there are options to add proteins including chicken, turkey, salmon, and beef, all sourced in Ireland. Behind the counter, staff are peeling and chopping butternut squash in the background while the rest of the team assemble heirloom tomato and avo salads (€9.95) and bowls of Rainbow Padthai (€12.95) to order. It’s the jackfruit tacos (€13.95) that win me e wi hor u f like a ts own arse r n bli tThe food is a beautiful mix of unfussy andowing a party and e oundvery-A SITE FOR GLAD Eo wYElinS n ucese m e cuplet of A SITE FOR GLAD EYEkh dSuih BEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace BEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace GARRY ONhe Pavilion Bar at Tr n Triineirish sas F O’Reie of the i g t rom t. B ime – a fac e decitth p e tlcoholic, o cb t. B rlg toth spaciouas wta n h ur bldn’n a e bllin eaits all reter smokomse t eir phones ssyos ts es s own, pr th aalg o t a sas own, ptr ps teeeo sarech rapwy,hesystps tmuany, ae ay!huroinh d out in af. ‘I wo man Mullligarn & Haines aspen ios t a g o ane t - enoug denou re so e a orem tat- n ma hs, a race o t f tld ilh’e I y iv lal l, b ioba f vad w e allen nks migur cit ac to Jd in the heart d hior to tder my belt f glob tlact wati h each oth ro bs iehe Ia , I e mch enls hln o en sw r Is there any such thing as the perfect picnic? Our jury is still out, but Project PICNIC founder Simone Cullen tells us that there are loads of ways to make outdoor dining a real treat. Top tips include sitting on your best blanket, ramping up the glamour with proper plates and cutlery, and adding a bit of sparkle with some bubbles. Above all else, ALWAYS bring your litter home. Cullen recently launched her own classic take on the Irish picnic, promising al fresco indulgence for four or more, to be enjoyed in Dublin’s great outdoors. Featuring produce from Irish food suppliers like Ballymakenny Farm and Clement & Pekoe, the carefully considered bill of fare includes such delights as roast free range whole chicken, fresh hearty salads, snacks, breads, garnishes, desserts and something to sip. Priced from €82, we’re told Project PICNIC feeds four ‘lavishly’. Order via Insta DM by Thursday 4pm for Dublin city centre pick up Fri-Sun. @projectpicnicdub a eitsalioer! Iy f’os uht),e Ihy itis t lo, bs t a-t a e en p e Bsg ae taihod bhe Nly the faot me bes t ht te bt od ony in a gg bh a sh th nerle aend n t bhuuer Streeax. t ts a n oy in a g h o btera reso immterua n aws - ps bsurf EIteuc’le, B e tji ba ene F eers, o h e a drink and r let. lo as Da e a dr h sio h r um waiees fxc eu ce a y H adaet ot. ‘Ae hos lotte Qce ay t e au e in tbmferuromen t p bablleh e ty od aormfs a co ags,t tnt wold ml p sip eh ln ar a ie ts gues. Th an vb-sclg a de ugtem . I por i ie; irtor a ura ur oe hn lde v c den, w u osaaDn ’ance aosr’ s w b erewnrtttemind whliney b, strpog yin e p tut ce h em ive, un ineir plk o t Los Rir, bl li oes, aiitou d in d n to koupad of f voads h ps b nin . I hd ouf see ae lemlt crt our t-vnagt pbie; itr. ‘Dnua ce ad s Cr h oséluresuit os as a caaid t a e wa tress. ws. No chah t o ditio n & H e a lil b ry into ty huaing j m eir coc oh ole a bintulocp t.o t ock sits acry f ienh en do cra ieitslt ahern noaur xc aare seaerterremenh en di e fla etinhlurer ext ty f le coun’r minimrak oaf ftt s h endis td nt wasit oe bbsi t. W s, a n adup le th s pr ma ve nod , berht bafhrtth heso immoers a in hinl der in t ae b eref Et heaeh ts had iats dh flicesmfnf of pugutbd a s p etrbvup es o treure atoremenaih ive a we f – Jhh in bt is a cots gueseavs ta r’eir pbs ier h t, waka naewnnehlel by’ e y survetvted my f lf an un wa en tioehe ber tn. ‘Bs le. Th hmrnot crh acess a cor p es Chf de b t p e?) ad buhosie O’Grady’s iomst thart wft ue I oae rtha lmin- erlem iat opaurer en es, rahad wes n os e in oa e a dr ek thhms, at ee t creh act-p ising o ki’ rt b f hi he b. Ihidg lit in a h a a e hiter very q h f Eie ot r ayaded m ow rader in t din g ouuer S ys o bdleh f n s w en peo og i b uo k prpcGg abd wrhlde v be, but betves te elly’s are better apd blh fl” mef o hn, pams sec ce, bk acn B et.. Thid a nings, - r i ie; i le u re ttt yneoh s Re o ingh - b gs,mfset apf fn oe t o y s. ne, unce a e e au ad wi ’ coleton or s aoug idenk i dgvv ’ coeen st deenadeo, fni ts b r siosi le cefo’eminlnle or y, hhtioa eartd ig bn. ‘eroe et ory t n ts o o bve hn r a new ce yohu s ereooeh h ’h at t hade w c o v up p t.o t f, in 2015, tf t rem. Th t le vades McGarry’s, a eo do tll twsnoen wroiuneinimeso y t ads hfem. Th t le f k ricGa y’ ther hip nor trendy. You won’t find Neapolitan pizzas or craft cocktails with cutesy names on the menu. Wings and pitchers of Bavaria are the vibe here. One sunny evening, I decide to nip across for , s ylrnplace fwd gs,t ts a o o as w. d Plege cgate y es oh a h pi io pwa’n ever asiansophg tu s t y tarny pad in a eat. Bp uavlava a at an s, ak of this co ea, positioned sm k bang bete f .m s at le y, plump Buck os o d tug ant? P e a s D , unhun aks. Barks wrts acry fatn aws t host- , “, Haine ep w unh sm tihut is t e e coinn tt p f (b cnhincaps bein hem i aev en g an o lit),es m ue hin . Th os. Thd inn l ames Joyce, I waf thes s lourooircsks”g, Ulyssg oh hy it ir s a lene pue ns mtanh ad ceap aue on camr ps tage –e ht wa asd sheie oltte oyjnshvn Dun lleg , Beaf rtrIMM - Thee ugoiopr a ne uicaoy, i- vu s bd wooet h ast MVP and norant of the myriad ple The name is a nod to my fail m the bl sio ims. Uet te Bhe Sert h e b en aipuesafqfotsh of oaur loml mt--sic ken ab . Wit t h ie s t te a my ueir snin e bg c e 19. Thitur befo h Drv y a senste t in a s t etenehinge uueanrtnloeoax.rpaiah nve a w nd aws GARRY ON McGarry’s GARRY ON McGarry’s – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. across. – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. der MAKING A HAMES OF IT Mulligan & Haines MAKING A HAMES OF IT Mulligan & Haines e co ge t e waius Enoe Iah acat w h a hesvoleyted w ro Je y-ast MVP andnoior t a f the mind. I w ricou enc mista qua e oun aeomts of Gf th t.l notte t ase unnpos . The e suslumes y mv’ nt waer ext ty fvs u ’r minimo, band tumo erd to t e purs t of the ep pun er s. No c t oh at or cra l ihit the fald lc . Ws o y’e a simi- c earays, prave unhoidinries o e p ld gakate a wn – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulyssese-racin while ru ch mvovterages. as, we a ision ur a sm that is t teg poes liic. J ur I am no Joyce scholar and have under my belt two failed attempts at getting all the way to the end of that one in which he wrote about the ‘ineluctible modality of the visible’, but I am struggling to put my finger on the what .C. b-entp ererbt, b’ ers w e t waspts a inetting a l the wa Book Nouw! n an omin o a pertece o er. wyise unna orto eer galy Mia a p a ts c s he proximity to tl e w me I am no Joyce scholar and have under my belt two failed attempts at getting all the way to the end of that one in which he wrote about the ‘ineluctible modality of the visible’, but I am struggling to put my finger on the what e the n the what t gtricate anl, deli Fered v of wine at this point. I can’t help but fdeel that NEW yerith sli bs udent who s -ys wt retf e bt tl mea rrrd drin The food is a beauteiful mix of unfuospsy andhtDublin’s Best B.Y.O.B pool hall. avd the b er garden. Its clos l tt e as – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. a y ssopea t f le g har osphiy finears I h he w atyse g on on rwf theerages. niers pll g ohe w t ae y pg the h in e w la er metaNEW l the DNA of Chapter One is all o er the place, isiblee fph: (01) 537 5767uet a from the plating to the shagpile, but the service acun ererel (ald-bg poona area, position (kung) po-faced. I like to think that Fuschia avo gag ee vaiding eye contact wktT ing its namerximity to the unate y McGa y’s is h and tvhe beye conaden. Ir cGal ry’g y pre this for herselffh h umn. s. No c ad smack bant pse y t unate Dunlop cooks likeci . a per mret b half in the bag and nobody’s looking ’, b RESTAURANT m w e ft ph: (01) 537 5767ou er s e ron ine D Swe s T o rg e , what wa cratrtricatpeose v, ded k an li eg wha a p a a er m b is h ers ca LOCATION IS QUAY Charlotte Quay inside. Hrea, p a tion d smack b yself do Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 inside. Hkan y! I plonk m helin star pendant hea The Fumbally d the b hi e I rem b ttera ov.er fach r ch af eesed p t of lie micrh y m nangd cirdcu e so than a dish of lightly Web exclusive cnonttent also. um sa s a not exclusively so; there are options to add proteins including chicken, turkey, salmon, and beef, all sourced in Ireland. Behind the counter, staff are peeling and chopping butternut squash in the background while the rest of the team assemble heirloom tomato and avo salads (€9.95) and bowls of Rainbow Padthai (€12.95) to order. It’s the jackfruit tacos (€13.95) that win me LOCATION IS QUAY Charlotte Quay not exclusively so; there are options to add proteins including chicken, turkey, salmon, and beef, all sourced in Ireland. Behind the counter, staff are peeling and chopping butternut squash in the background while the rest of the team assemble heirloom tomato and avo salads (€9.95) and bowls of Rainbow Padthai (€12.95) to order. It’s the jackfruit tacos (€13.95) that win me l w ptl plum cate we court be pug uph: (01) 537 5767t rtaving a fr 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767hg h rt ricGa. And iy’facebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ ouses a RESTAURANT w tiently spiced crustacean. T g a er special of 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 A SITE FOR GLAD EYES se tareir ph . ‘on Y ’re so MAKINl Shelbourn fe Hot f Slurereions ht youalnwu e rdugies; thwtn quaa y o ol s frhfe. Iag henoarly sly identi-d bps tne mlic hs more ae esshe h, a happy!’ It’s one of thos hir h n es, ra e tlhat shine from the happy!’ It’s one of thos hir h n es, ra e tlhat shine from the seats after smoking in lifh here tat mak Y ’ur lar ugh h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o mn imp acas ble sadn at BEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace words Aoife McElwain photo Killian Broderick seats after smoking in life, t at mak Y ’ur laug h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o mn imp acas ble sadn at words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan ring on te, therrace. ‘ ring on the t race. ‘ seats after smoking on the terrace. ‘You’re so seats after smoking on the terrace. ‘You’re so gio s y ta y to ae. ‘I wli h I was thess. The back gio s y ta y to ae. ‘I wli h I was thess. The back e ynu e sohte s op t y qtuickl’ in cy si e, under t r ads ‘Th reos y occurt r ads ‘Th reos y occurh pa py,’ he stops to say to me. ‘I wish I was that h pa py,’ he stops to say to me. ‘I wish I was that happy!’ It’s one of those exchanges, rarely occurhappy!’ It’s one of those exchanges, rarely occure you re so ter very quickly e you e sohter very quickly nen paYor rk Street’y want an n is a pub o ow sf note fumpice d ab t oovo reeaen inat te h o j s n t ros uc y a e o S t er o o s mi arr SADDLE SUP Stagag EIGHT Th P The Shelbourne HMti ES OF IuT n v GOOD SPORTr a ci t n remt e hain g eshoe t o The Hors H h Th sons; first ys asho at io ti st d as a b Thei iG A HtAotelloating home, ordering and popping a cork.cestig u s -woef rostrk- un g l e Dr The Horses oe in a bar that kno ts pd thws ho th g of enigma. H hw a t op u ee, asso aa ed Victd bce 1661, anith i old t o by Mh-h e Rmpd thae Ciniy o va r e Rag Tefoiay tet o hoera Hum a f w reap eyf tshil , it iss one of the oheir t b ablisrmm tless vum d thte ci y cen rd threfit;oaryh the lens fhm h’ Wi GASTROGASTRO S DRINKINT OUG St ON CLOUD OUND aptaMu ligan & Haines e co ssurance that it waf th rlin wt you donl ou into t ions in town. The mere men Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global of its na GOOD SPORT The Pavilion Bar at Trinity College Dublin - ome yea s after the foundation of th and an allege ce t GOOD SPORT The Pavilion Bar at Trinity College Dublin d ig SADDLE SUP The Horseshoe Bar at The Shelbourne Hotel SADDLE SUP The Horseshoe Bar at The Shelbourne Hotel SOUND OUT Stage 19 uene o ues in town for d ta es thau o So bn dt.t t er as tumineue asasumeirat ch sm inamhun t e tken in h siderauni re tm - particularly want anyo e you kno m So boicen hb ytt oen e cotn hao jain fa d dir o al, th tionh ne hintudenll of the bh e most rmi riert e a York Street’s The Swan is a pub of n my cohroice, w S h cod abad br t” of The Rd t rader f d dir temor wosrse, y mo e potly int e 19 and an assurance that it’s one of the preemi-’ wa e essenSOUND OUT Stage 19 across. ar ing from Hang Dai, although I understand that - le in Th hpg t ” o ov aeve was no suc enpy a n assuran ticf this Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global inichin derhradhe h e o The food is a factor too rt arr th te wa uc e a sinrsopy ftrioend oee rs I had g en m h lf who knoutch mv Sso be it. oro A n hraumineg then sig agge aen o aran Indstead h e i n. Thi , t e co s a sm d ain w e occaoal hhr g r ane oo, tane whns o e, blut fit six.ll a gap a e of to fair tblin w f fer e ch hg m, w e we gameen Ie filingeen f g t ge hats f thiare of tthh mu t S ond walld svoeci e waact pirat cor e tm e h pg ta p ef thts whiar ar h gl d D in D bev olf rc af fot sy comw lominsbl ld enen be f ice . Augu b un a uf rd ttSvoe e 19’epeuminrporhm ira ne h hich h ghin Itatsadt b er garden stt waint tke a benline fvr ier ns oeme n, ge dn badt, th e is a smaerernd th t getting all th F On t te d) t of th Alo in g en bse hn ac T u c h o un er s o lioin y r lm dehi in wv s o e s o t screenhnd stir ing r M liga usurseol Negu tail mhh e n dlvys. The Pt e wart oy t hi y McGal mir dlays iur irst Miich m as ta st in term anda m tof thoamrade-of, I p tlacr occrumth apnd k s. I fe Iemaining true to ri egional fl ofce L i pnsaeann b rh glarow Dhtc un an, I pt ininhg tu with m ars t in t w t e s b as ers a srlcreen screen lpplem Joshua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no dould wl €6) i s girlled untit a rl bli ts ered and blacenehere I r crab mc s crab meeat an lobs of aom ular menu ts f hr ta Trp cia s. Th ibtes iylod s t-b g it o h tp mackererel (a rown cr aerer spe laled unti mere fre €28, wime te) with bacon pulls me back from full ents for tph: (01) 537 5767heet a (a potauo a rsnt a om t e reg s ered and bd klackk and systematically sets about schtupping the le aem in f d c ucumber, ac c receses sout being u n ug y man n. Frodcu e reget The name of the r lly t poseks of a wi es ofd bloor the e n The pub is hvoce to a restauran at a d b lo yppv v ado sa uce. It o li-oa g u o-greenas ageo about them. d cir eg wou unconditionallyvenin,g tdless of how y Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, cado sabs of s , rft g ar thin Bar atradi ion it singem led lio of whattmpg mom apen inag in teor s o seat ar e 19 t venues in town for dates t aI mhI m t admi into a mer tbiot of op a ini gle other. Si t t ereso r an ug s o ha f a my otini ge oh b ump ooey sses in t e city cen r t ldest aoin estle in The Sadd’ole Ruet m ftksr dinnv tvoiuy y y sister it h-h Therniog Tlio ttd I df trhe sigs t e me exteruxifr façy serfkff thade rlyet of York Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having operated as a bar since 1661, and the essentially untouched Victorian interior that you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Reilly in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention of its name elicits in many a knowing smile and an assurance that it’s one of the preeminent venues in town for dates that you don’t particularly want anyone you know stumbling across. The root of this association remains somev York Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having opera et d as a bar since 1661, and the essentia y untouc eh d Victorian interior t ah t you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Rei yll in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention ll un SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader day and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. wa g oe o w-slimg senhara in m, w DRINKING ON CLOUD EIGHT Humphrey’s remar day and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association o tnie-racintes ho knows ho e nh e a lib oyl nyet ooeel the sameaum et of ot ur toh ome cvoidinries oe cold ac l matih) tech el sits natht t here P t y rude h , ond slopyp y s as voidinad plea ur . Ha ic. J s houroin pu er taer Wat k, aahams, p hl. Th n on Irisf tb lent theb’y bl inth ther a e osh whigtk Wa k s p wt of the w day and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. p hors s p ay hxturo . It is authentically itself without being acT king its na we es lo utlely le sins illose prose menu t se o uaiuce pr, baby beo sooats are p rtel. It lo ks reestaur utif their lovlw nhoots a ach I , thddere eaed vinegabeen croauce pf smesq s w y t p t o l uc e th ig’d r ro bers cou soft white t e cllan’ e a itiint (€7.50) w th s lt loiturds pig’s t a teautifol a d, ew acos arh I’d a chvent i far tod a d r t b - i A p vy or far too swehe chdt. I briauttern r u r and sharing Est ttngs rea ’y wt nio s al d a agh u u k d into v t ega fo hearesh and perfect y o b sauce and b lenni l Thets palm tr cial (€15 extd a cf in d bes to obscure a complex flavour profile. We c Considering its history of transience, of Cashel blue cheese otver a celery and apple l n vereg w er le ado sBook Now! o for a cigarnt k owreas Thn as The www.thehideout.ie tt In a neignhd fourt if yl of th ere a y r , you cou on h ies, even tem o SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader t tio t e Rt ya s in s e ther a y untouc e see t ere wa a y un ouc e o sta led by Thoma I wo’Rei y et t a h t 6p aasrktad f e t uva v e Rag Traderry h d Vict DRINKING ON CLOUD EIGHT Humphrey’s aeged t e wa uire t s nos in recent years beenuy linliciFh in e mebhnt t t r in 1897. Secondly, i thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association aff ins a mo ded th ys ery. Per an as a hht y dinnen, bFelhl heir snmen tg hoy s in 1897. Secondlty, it has in recen e a dinner, b r rlo out ofl d signeege gs ae baatvh b e afforded the reputation as a hub f r co didnlan ’ionadot r bl er ga enni y thr onh bmiling b sinesm ys t ess er gar hhs, b nh wugi h a q lia er et acrosw r a f s.ehreason ’ st yl , it is one of th their tat estle in The Saddle R m ftkr dinnerou d atindls a “ s; fir ticularl s The S yone you kn my c oen glinde ne had bhe doov. Were cotnd t ote for licensed premises in to e city cen rt e haal peublicean tke a fi Thin o t e lo . Gktailsevo uert seugl haunsin licene rd p emi e hr Ba’bout four bells, drink some stra s rrtr opera et d as a bar since 1661, and t iht seeme tine operatound. If I had my cnhoice, on the strength ofart oe s acen tuame elicits in many a kn miner un lo Rt e enradis qin, te vesinad le w, b t fli of its n arme elicits in many a knowing smi taw-s ag sa h cen hh at coiibmle wh tage nent venues in ty run in Dh be emi-l o es ey oo lo dihte do umy drar ag e whin h tmina y SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader ll llh h l C llegor a o acqs instahi t ha tine operations in town. The mere mentOn apre p a e per a t – tetter kd swoy muemewer a keo k indeph dentoer ki enurts n thild of thee s e e reputatio h ps tub f sr co solci desation r y u y Co in roy ut k og in a fotr anc e n waer you e cn d ga e t sng time – a fach g campainn mor e oldes b ablism “bples oen invi. Wtg Tt s, fge po ’ thmiec ice coo S pen us han pa o a mealictioe ot t t h b , w ext dode ne h b he door ext do v s s leme-owa crds s ” tlos ong cocb o fun ety’s, f r better oh t e ace s ct y int ements a sitphre ’as Dn ao ta. Ade r ertines a “d aer - andal r. Wster Shm h’ts at ac iohrety’ h d to t er oetthe plr f ey a e un uo- th an t seo Wet tie pllium Sepeoo e dis a r r er - anery siith heem uet to fore loer bt ttg-es astceussreh ’emen r oe do thif d lik se a fi pttin o ta o bn h the a o cihtr sin y miany w ior tld t o b o s, on y Stoene mbanoreuv, t t e teth’s lt h ae bilic heu, t o lled by Thomens I wollld g t immediaaoe insig t into tm es yoo erh eahk drine p g e inl De o ubnlie aed in the t e woa w tytens; H” otf The Ra oaere most rat ent ls hin ser b’ h oo ta. Atdlvr ftiose o se, inted deplize tu in , thsiderabls on uc s sarsr-iner examg Te min fa e popsl SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader le oi n intg o s F O u l -ld g e ties; t ph kwlht inu id oo ses a e esr ter, csark drin u- t-li es--d eye over t t ough. On p as a biogrethe mig ks, we smo recelac lhin tuh heo ueick wa ln saur ttr-nse t td fvae s romitlde as m imm i lesur or an inter ity Collllegeinin ugs, b h b w i ft e te ru aot onythin -llesdey.e over th the res tec at ble seleec iog t o beune s, in e r d bert a bn tlm a nice co h n m o a r tha o at yo th ir di te insig bt h e b n hk afet of th in k s, obn te sreoy Ste two ptu t anroen a e essroximie roug Dr e s r et’s l v pew toener nage oaruxilifres an men- t s o bw ack tho h nec it ae cretahar et m o esn w e er. uae aenam aansd secene.y a ioios it m ho co a pe p, h in hhes h w tird oby coly in h a e w en- w to makne them bef, thre a h iorader ure e Rag Tarader ir ore debd t eir ody tos war s a cer ant. Snneg-esr ene er aewtn qnis ntah a vieaair wah ears beer g t m t p to th t S De b bhnle 19. Thitid do m hrhinan aln ki otr worb otuy tt en th aetfuls t, beth y a bad h and a the ‘dr hat it’ ’ we just enjole is imma e 19’ee, oe oh oant adqe gah rmine btatr oned ularly want anyo e you kI m t admi tin d dep w loo wirnyt oaren s we ve Swaglyvn oicede . A hinr to t d to hd t ar y moeefo tlninthy inlto Son uMdur b” tnio s a d I drans in toeir r r l h un pt it ias no rader ikk o . In td e do li The r, a shyf tt o v it is a t len h es to whme W f trhun s, f e e l legummer ligtiout August tho Alk d ai ne had bthe dos seen in i. Wave tr bs, f o lrader furgmi o aran t not ehier it is a o gt t ss s min p w er aunhr t me cit r dinn , BIMM - Thlind , o y-Se ou The root of thi ybody lo in ble in Th tts a h he log m hm fklin tllegummiu d as a “sister eir ts soblism if Jh adjet tnpy try’ets Daoatta. Adver - an a s asso ab t n remae n es mhi g ok on Christmas Everr ws tehy t cibiou t v o o fttaesd s she Wlen itls sym S wtinse H’in ser be diss in t ftm t s asso a out t ias t ao ta leure oeemtoliacea etoere o u aeir r a nces war s a cer a er be di a s, p r p it; didn e nh d like a fi pttin o t asures o afttail menu cla ouwv ld g etlesotd awtlf cobina, it rses aoe es eir oe p r ae I am deepoye e bly Mu ligahn & Hetines i s, o neshan q lio an ygthan gn te o ers pn he old t tho bsirdugpa didn e uesd like a fi pthyt it ia osng-es abli ho inkinrag inunt, ouv s te a libh-hyin sinlien a her o k eruxifcarresyn t iogt t Waind sshyt lutt oum d ths Du y cen de reutindlyh a-n tb rf Jd o t trrooruaooesh bce bveertp otug aa er n remhinf the loboby iner anyoeev lickt tesg-eslin team une h the lens i’t heeme pu seeme lobby inl. Th v of all time (Gooble it) and the dining r hd a p rays tge e p , sen r a d do my thid a d h thw dly t ad, there is a sm ttt wad th tf c lotgined by Philip K. Dick.g t es h oar s invefudinougll bs aility t e ves ur eemo be desir d s r e w’s bld g nineo t entny cewa-ys. feels as ifd i and i poure less act t qluiall loty ju y likdeneshmh h of Phethinero bin. The ae t t en t ve lmi inhurposehs misttak Squa er dinnin, bhlt. I ml kh reo t d ceilin tepg co t quit d sigilt t an it was imaa y j kminl siod cdin t a miavhm th oof Pinthpd at d, i bnd thg artustonaled runvo, t tthh er le wh, b uarsh gl sr Du c fair tlin woe a t r hinw lomin bnl uamle estaasbli hment t ugu t to Apa or y himselfa, and a chef ler lig n mo wa ag o carminoamoeros aevuo -t a ou omy pe i d ’ o chucgtio bt ou atterins acer w ue s a e wae cos nav gehf li e t u ld e en b anrmin ca nandin t Fe i le y in t hidn-tt le high-cei o dbo rdg and clrade-oludin Fr m tt totside o e sun a veeofuhrtag ag rche doery wh a d ke s. I fs icedha’t ’ pStti ugschh int rm e a sin o n y prl like Im Fortunas pllart u a Mrurkligah ent t e nt i ur t thesfs, it s wv uy-drin ing hings (a his food at Hang Dai has allts ol f Guinnes lace fsr d akee ca t f globalr t w c ace e and m u era y rrl u r . With its gaoure of Ja ycea ic untte-racinyinn one ol in t Is e u t ny tTHE HOME OFf n y pel like Im e of tu h mut of rel’ pt oss a h nga df The HideoutThe Hideout oll tunateny McGanrry’ pos hulesinpoa e ot uinn oycelaer e a d i linh s uden sioauh ll bs a id a h gl re oos Dir tde S e atiee THE HOME OF ienTHE HOME OFo lme h d balancing act of not taking itselfio too seriouslyd ’ s abougt Iss t oe f tthe lobby incel w errs ur too burief st uplilic. J s h didn f ta ur u f J e o s os ug j e baer mances - es o d f ai in ow s on e fpf tharnesgerty Ba , j, at le of loom ipite t n gf serious h t r crat, of co’t ho e lobble ren mics fd ohesloe Horls ld lin g orot onces a - se.opnconcer o ugor tue s v ts. t om it ii f thhi Iskh y b td s y th h ad e wisiot w aour llege, BIMM - The eren up t, os os lit ps . e o egu ar an Dtinblin th ft o ot pusep s h rt wos gous ts, p ainkr vinag in pleasant beer garden so I make a beeline for it with my pint in tow. En route, I pass a handful of punters playing pool in the pub’s designated pool area, positioned smack bang between the toilets and the beer garden. Its close proximity to the latter means players can go for a cigarette break mere feet away while still having a front-seat view of the would-be Dennis Taylors slugging it out inside. Handy! I plonk myself down at a repurposed keg where I remain for the evening. The pub is home to a restaurant known as The Joshtua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no Fort Book Norrw!n go for a cigaStep Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 eri het I way wawn toast is r g a fa e y pe t in tls. Th Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1ome to a per ec yre b eakaligan, veet bely anybody’afie ns plStep Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1r a ciga e f th M lk v. A SITE FOR GLAD EYES ah t-td wi h ao-eattroom pie. It won hb’t f . b ds sin g moemene diblisfdhfd cockthiugh the lens u g t e Risinokt to pers m d th mm tf th- a menerkround the ci y cen re r r w y co e ties t v lict o pereorm toae own for dates tuaI must admi’t ld s rolosh in ue amint a y ft 20 p t six.tio h t n August t he it.ded aba “pbudents w e erader f eref l g rra s one or f th were s gaoalim F o s n y in thf doe Tiade a pld e , b t six. i dp. or €4.70, pretty reaso a t ost t owace not. Liet a cy lo pnacquere adin m be te int easit umpg st oe rea’hi her mhaen Isl tt ’ waro in w e s ndinnklcaagsh prb sves e; H e p emi naneree iuu rt t uic n STEP INSIDE The Hideout my c Waprin Sm e Sadd e w t sic co er or fy aiutarde ah h ci lent ths th o fbtkb Sli hmt acts aacenk” oole R ’erbr dinn te,m w g smileder i Rdinlcaagsh p b s e n okly m hr hbts iet lit tg ttk d o es eySthrtretcs nsured, I wt t ltside on h t 20 p ls l en s one omin re nn- ts p avcioios guiasv e; H e whio meen be f un t ’oahr e ih the doltside o e w t y u do tanupa o a meh int e ominsr r th re t-o m um p oril. A had blize thts w e t lo diff h burbllsh rd n in D b revo h’ve dSt t erses Ut sumine ioh f op e a sing le o d. F w sty c bling , wearo rp e ll of te R aro joy more propiu a ln no ust he i in ag crsetp fbrog t ne waaporrtr t s a le es. Sibliasthmm t t a ov o ee doo htnd t ’s bld g nin e prevonv’e gd tl h aare c ve, oae otgeevh ay ay me wnytoher mronut frstlorgdv pWE’RE LOnVING…ld gt cokere w-budget bts hper y m p s imme nu en swe tbpa mef Th en didn’On atio t qpuit ac (€4.80) lew-stahin d oe teniliy t n in being p hiuf tem . Thes modern patron. For the les ss ad graesenj k by a b hher t leder its preval ae cmiaab d a ettw lotling bhy oes ra an ado- e ev t ah thrup tumiee this timet wagn ro aeetg d hea e b o k f er al s n y st ndenh o fas prubg tl e ts ao sue lin w d ty ertio s noh lr eo c t hin puk wall of tha awa ver tbe erss y aeao tace com e il ertato loho o c, ta g w s umbo ld steloser to tw look fd bra am th . Si o Apn h ext do r t d t t e b li w anco ceret itn qot. Spy oing in t. Its.s o k-pite ten-s of t ies; tu ps t o pglic h e sig n ats. o awn sensudt ’t hem an tob rf wuinro t in slic s ahcuse berroefiol ha s, o cerhin g Trader i euvreir co eoiy s t s o le e a librd Th s na t mef thie signn ahf th s aerva s a cert hat mk esint drhra fm t heir t al hi g oi “buh ad’s; Hjume wehg To of ta ure ora ouyceaeo t wa didnu’ s sprne blf G o, s ae p t so fa lo ovs ty o etpe s ket t ist a mihs, b h weri h a q liin terh S u c asiv immediq te inluess otnaepy r ou erth e y uinoe ohf Jay tt en STEP INSIDE eer gayr s can gaa o , b h e specilaway wp io th sgbstl he . Hn additionaant to f ein b is hts o le shi n alraest l s pr un- hnow - RESTAURANT s. The s filling ofl. (It des e s rt tself as a bra d ut Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 an wy! I plonk mysedd c , with chaarre eneoots attacarre ucumber uce. It’s delit kn-s deeg . over. Jackfruit is sort of like an ugly mango and it’s blessed with the ability to soak up flavours and retain moisture. The tacos are served with Murray’s delicious cashew nut cream, red wine vinegar pickled onions and avocado tucked into soft white tortillas. Thanks to the vision of interior decorator Jill crt been cro ot buttauce pt r y st t arrahat laub avotod s,hearing n. Thven thon oough I’zy, tentder a lly crur prickeled o er ecny ovo-g e . J es esn s so e are microcg n (€3), wiendition, br eanuW er part iinith ta note-perfect r h wilicioasc a ckh uit i. Ther batin .er r p es led o er ecny otl rfa ray’s delicio s neanuad itt , carame se perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature s mas cooks. Margadh at RHA Gallery 15 Ely Place Dublin 2 pots; evn t eets pat side o ery, ant a d bateaum bt had), t p ifuhhades; drapint as h lene th to yllden, flsic buffett y chin xturn the deavoer corny Chrailnt, b t f t c l sarred i eac vat eleh and fig des spices mix sll y a covoure vani a ice crs covured b s lovestmu oe s a litessentially a counter serv er crevayss as coo would be expected in the early days of a new business, but I don’t experience any on my visit. The staff are friendly and knowledgable, giving good tips on what to order and steering us away from over-ordering (we wanted to try everything), and the room is a pleasant space to be in. We grab a drink at the bar connected to the restaurant after dinner, watch the rain hit Grand Canal Dock, and think about how lovely this veranda and vista would be on a sunny evening. Even in poor weather, it’s still a beautiful, urban view. Our bill, which includes a glass of Montepulciano (€8.75) and a homemade hibiscus syrup with sparkling water drink called the Queen Medbh (€5), comes to a total of €90.75. Charlotte Quay has everything it needs to succeed: a great view, a talented chef, experilr iady would be expected in the early days of a new business, but I don’t experience any on my visit. The staff are friendly and knowledgable, giving good tips on what to order and steering us away from over-ordering (we wanted to try everything), and the room is a pleasant space to be in. We grab a drink at the bar connected to the restaurant after dinner, watch the rain hit Grand Canal Dock, and think about how lovely this veranda and vista would be on a sunny evening. Even in poor weather, it’s still a beautiful, urban view. Our bill, which includes a glass of Montepulciano (€8.75) and a homemade hibiscus syrup with sparkling water drink called the Queen Medbh (€5), comes to a total of €90.75. Charlotte Quay has everything it needs to en sced std: a gff leading tt vie he cw, a thlenaargted cd a, exper enl fanbase. All the e cea ge anr Dublin y L’Estrange of L’Estrange Design, Nutbutter is poised and ready to be ‘grammed. It’s millennial pink meets palm tree print and bamboo light shades; draping succulents hang overhead while leafy fronds cover corner crevasses from their pots; even the cutlery is rose gold. It’s very beautiful, and it elevates the atmosphere of what is essentially a counter service canteen. Poké, proteins bowls and peanut cacao balls o erv could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved would be expected in the early days of a new business, but I don’t experience any on my visit. The staff are friendly and knowledgable, giving good tips on what to order and steering us away from over-ordering (we wanted to try everything), and the room is a pleasant space to be in. We grab a drink at the bar connected to the restaurant after dinner, watch the rain hit Grand Canal Dock, and think about how lovely this veranda and vista would be on a sunny evening. Even in poor weather, it’s still a beautiful, urban view. Our bill, which includes a glass of Montepulciano (€8.75) and a homemade hibiscus syrup with sparkling water drink called the Queen Medbh (€5), comes to a total of €90.75. Charlotte Quay has everything it needs to Tho e maoteins boe blmw s and p anuon out, as umps teo ir t cacao balls could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved loya ced st ff leading th loyal fa bnh ase. All thh logic h log get over t e psyc o ey neeal barror D blinins to ff h get over the psyc o s s o s worth sating offg out. t e beaten track. Thi ical bp t iarrier of e eekin the beaten track. This spot is worth seeking out. succeed: a great view, a talented chef, experienced staff leading the charge and an already loyal fanbase. All they need is for Dubliners to get over the psychological barrier of eating off the beaten track. This spot is worth seeking out. ucceea rea y n r s fod an alread s to d is f ier o hed i e anhef n a e - er uf eater g o juoo premha uruety we f decadentldly de’licious. A au, a d p with oniotes ligs an telltale woolly teps o could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved t pooo prema ure y win ery, a ptifo u , ad in whleva spices mix s achend in what tes t e atsert wnh asverare hayt iss time for some comfort and leafy frono fam (€8.50) iice c to a Japanese dish that was itself appropriated achl e nd it e at ttes tastes lik m e c slh sic bf what isd er s y Chriatn een. Th Book Now! h, it yields to a pliant, generouse www.thehideout.iet at ention a tt osi d with the Micnd Sourdough Tn lf doeen t ed vi the neck. A diminuti en eer ga den. Ivited. Almost rigid at first with sesamee I remain fl e p o e menin Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 ti l snt kette bn ak el (a n addit olls into the villainkseserie, no A SITE FOR GLAD EYES ir oa - f finesse. b not on the men h like ttbse s o . I elentless rhe defini a ocussehd thro aeeir a t, , y u re pefine g a d c l h lotes a tuy in tty t bum , t o e reahkshe ey ogo b,e desired. drinker, your stan ard Guinn i ps a long atgaes in arttno wae oereaasettlyr pra drinker, your stan ad r grass a lopp g assrt tntg we a s lo idee p war e g and clim (€4.80) le e an wat g s Th in proa. Th g Strgte 19, bot ent d s het, tep-co some s-eers certain saur wa tio eme ass h e Tevey’s isn e s he e ace. The . pnea. Th g Se te 19, b wairoot ies, m av y ora sy likdens, bhrh w h a q liinsine g e sera There i aigelles of B ara d sigl umlpe re a v catr e moment e de ifr s beir snugs, b s, I k lim ents alcohd a. Itytve- g e se. beers on ouer t’o see nhoehin rn ot evou b e o l af qy h i d in Di endeciahm, o e sh inar o paciore 19. Thirh y td in timo thrhe t l estot o t ou oc man Fero t re min mee o o-wen a u aps tha ury e ah pk a ao tl ht 6pbhld-wh st Sln sb rg ca oac wor e, sagenaa l red-hugetrance way e i b en ts we iomi b att – tugo faties, m in sic Thlh, she ibbeo doooas eparrat er rd a wo shpposee the show are in-t y w o t etp) fin o R hanss noats otne oohremararaw e L orah y t u i e tts ohs a dit tin as noa le chu es o ay – peaofe minfdur befheir oe b h oet randin e dic – paean moroade t ie aboo ter wape rin e o do ties a s m onhogald he t t thdel er ugtinags pce wayet, w ethotud pen, w earao acee ovhrhite ww osrouy-Seren ls e o S essaeinp wh’en is; Hlliam Seeoo r betrer om, BIMM - The anling o a meg a tiot oaf a my otini gg s sa o my a he o lext do g tho the coat t. Wir ere wwerouurgeo at en nyecewa-ys. pain d depiclize tt y wer aacs e osucerusarr ts seaenehf Thhe bg T o diffre po p ace t c h tao ttven sa n tbblt cy fu a litale di d o t inra t es g Trader inudenmeerin infg inet o old ttalle diough-h The s one m eaos t f. I ded t eir o enq I woims. Unaca vtiof co o t e min ime rf tah t to adjg lst dinno i th io tote Sherablering c, it rith paod sloppindo uare t. Wiin unhquesoob ninpaciogs a y r e a aeqn m re t a g t ts geir snugs, b l nmpe tn m r s w I w l immihdi e saone mboane be ssre drt oon thaor Dts aimte t lie e a n o t t iot hto ply Blic hoe minrfsf Pen li e ptulij s owwo b f td oies; tte tghat hy oor, j o udenlo lifm ilet oly identi un o u rourite TV sholuiret of th o adt s winith t lings come lacquer 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 tWeb exclusivsue chontent also.y cir le of puff pastry e regl e Sheo p b h m gunfrir d t rtyiate plwl n slg a simily ident t t thld ppt ig rimet orl estad-pein rb ors tto tio ese s o es eion t hin s g neskatkblishfd td cock o t; litest af the signn a mmo n Foidvnhieten a fotse rh w H t tthhres nly’tw swooasng coint erbevoee t. It y likdenbk, b ew it wah lesolinb. Araw teestin as non hf ohnere a sin o ta y aa en t tna f Th esidera’bs bld gurbecg r ace tm t di uicy in t ar ey dra n to tu g pae c v icutlhen ureen f. or its avian namesa ek , The S than itini in t ur ’e M&H cot shets hit. W thk ue. tlhiskey col tcoc t o li hh t, per (a ps unld pr a bsso hn t ahee Bsity oucy-hg auging a ho n o e way ok waol of the bsr on ytio h t its avian namesa ek , The S tah n a o oles. He od ney (and lr €14 – ia eekry licls litke a h sars h ann dit s mit d lotc. I picthly) rb blepe Fugn was qm thould be ordert a icu g yy orn.i en f €4.70, pretty reaso a t at t bn or rs oet a c d in l d fo n s ypwat fciheae inlts litke a hafpp li h drcas htuart les. He oihtd drina k tlh s immn wa k uehit furbp a rl m be tieenhe baprpe e 19’c aicg tut oor aps r oubsm in astu with tisheir love y lono an ootzyacent , shrencr aen a vah manner (potaja. Amid r g i t n urn. Thven t g roro ervee , spr,inkled th m h a miks o all the playfulness t h h Thurlle M ks tra t o ed bawana an t hon oon e serv ed wtiderth p ans tl etttin mifi k d do e t o aug oarhis diuh a millio uim seam, re l of n, N tb tt There mle tts; e en the some bts rose goo irr s very b s Poké, proteins bow s and peanut cacao balls caramel, caramelised banana and a chocolate mousse is really well balanced. It could have been far too heavy or far too sweet, but instead it’s just on the right side of decadently delicious. A charred peach and fig dessert with amaretto and vanilla ice cream (€8.50) is lovely, but feels a little too prematurely wintery, as the fruit has been poached in what tastes like the classic booze and spices mix so favoured by Christmas cooks. There may be some bumps to iron out, as p i d aneam (€8.50) is lo jelly divides the table but I know better. An better Chinese food that you can have delivered eaatc c ks of at cr n therle and blobs of s f, Mae t e. Therrnionfe atrl k the dishes k d int puand-ao the vmolisl and nf int t cr py bolre, this o , caeau e siesio hi eWe c o be ‘ rait (€7.50) wi’th s lteds ut squash but that heat never Web exclusive content alsoar. t thie thr ugh a h sinh e l ks t d se ve p inc connections. This is top drawer stuff. A mousse ce ang ov ld h er io and shor ra dinot rs w ig s a ade tlic, oliveo r sh a tfy thinly a biadu esvf srhif ing sdsrde f th e nk f d bhog purtld etven brle fure on eavy oer corner crevassu es fs mi lenni le c l i ere oh ad whidle es frem tl ks. essentiall o fa unt d b ice c AtVENUE OF DUNVILLE DELIGHTS P kéer , pry be so l um s the f. It’uit hus beeau he ae t os ps t ld on oa t, aen - t h p aere o ooze an Ranelagh is food-rocking right now, with the arrival of two great new culinary outlets on Dunville Avenue. Paul Rooney’s new veg-ture Glas Deli opened its doors just before Easter, bringing with it an incredible array of vegan and vegetarian dishes to enjoy at home, alongside a terrific selection of artisanal produce from some outstanding Irish suppliers. @glas_deli Nutbutter Forbes Street Grand Canal Dock Dublin 2 www.nutbutter.ie Meanwhile, Brother Hubbard marked their ninth birthday by announcing that the latest addition to their culinary band would also be situated on Dunville Avenue. Located just across the road from the Village Butcher, their new enterprise looks set to add a tantalising taste of Eastern promise to the Dublin 6 suburb, with a feast of delicious menus and flavours inspired by cooks such as Yotam Ottolenghi and Sabrina Ghayour. brotherhubbard.ie Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490 Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490 Nutbutter Forbes Street Grand Canal Dock Dublin 2 www.nutbutter.ie Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com board special (€15 extra per person and it’s worth it). We get plates of slowly braised short rib and then a board of pink slices of the tenderloin fillet (aka the chateaubriand), topped with onion rings and golden, fluffy chips on the s covr far to be ‘ oar vef pink slices of the tensf smesq s w g ue c e peate. Iriane f f Lll E els cn o d in a cri y braltl or Ji n s l bcalse ce y t co ld h e benound in the wholesale fish f toce seaso e y tep troo lts ap f a e d salt-baaked ant may not be prog rougts at’tvt hd wit p in ledio us cstsicew nupple aaspefloae, tf sefs on t uiets a d af t o-gle sreens and cir torti as.ked do n tfound with the heft of f iomented black beans. zy, te ea en a variater n range Desigf tain with a dish of lamb neck in chilli bean a an n t. Ian has a bacs o vh ado tucn. d in a cries bef a , t e W tuler plaer paesist tmmea eauts mind shaaing a a ra p hb o lightllr J d it’s an d. In, N tbw ad while s board special (€15 extra per person and it’s worth it). We get plates of slowly braised short rib and then a board of pink slices of the tenderloin fillet (aka the chateaubriand), topped with onion rings and golden, fluffy chips on the u or t a’s. esi t t e chatea b i n ot a t serv r deco s rea y w ue gts hates of sloh y braise d d oly, b ’t f ig lm t int in octopus dish has clean ozone tang but also the n rinkts hapg od goour doore cith amf wo ao.oze and e that comes from souseen. rett fah tho sgop thoed ried mullet in a sauce of its own making, Web eo our parxclusive content also.se o f flood but it is fd to S lot budes tn b o loor manad er an g senthanioessem agevey’m ac t asn ksonasiesl a ga e lok h es e garen s we v ll a ga e an ugr eas aenson.o ancuo ll et, be seassoead it’usiness and she seems to have retained her Web exclusive con’tent also.den, but a fp mal g a ut in tn. es aerennial red-hat coowur hing tac’ y opa w-li ade ahin ers o au giy I’m told that there’s no pickle brine for my douchey martini but the Negroni that replaces it works like popping a pacifier in a baby’s mouth. Another reason to shut TFU is a steak tartare that comes atop diminutive blue cheese sandwiches which have been steam-warmed. It’s a statement of intent. I’m a big fan of oysters, there’s little to compare with the experience of cold briny bivalves, tasting of oceanic sex, slipping and sliding down your gulliver. I’m a fan of cooked oysters too. Wiley’s Nashville hot oysters (a riff on the furiously hot fried chicken) are reason enough to come here. They are momentarily deep fried before being replaced in their shells with a sauce offering just a suggestion of sting. Sublime. Oyster mushrooms, parmesan fondue on sourdough toast is a pleasant thing to eat but can’t hold a candle to the previous delights. The dish I’d most looked forward to – pork hock, pickles, hot mustard, steamed buns is not on tonight, chef tells me that he’s not quite happy with it and that’s reason enough for me. It’s back on now and I will be back for it. Venison chilli is a deeply involving bowlful, profoundly savoury Mulligan and Haines, the otherwise unnamed English student who stays with Mulligan, this Dame Street bar occupies what was once Sweeney’s Mongrel, what was once Le Cirk, h h Is e’t wao h the on et o y b o olo brief suma Engt s as ac u min o soa oof lis ioi u h-cei t ir trade-olet bff f l epm uct-t a se f thd a d, is a d i ps ib to io d Ho ake a menae oe olcern Dd a puramee o t w t a mioshmf lih M lliga d a d, is Skhnique at the late lamented Luna, ten ab o it. I m k. ro st y’, t s h ’t. I mins n no a p tfer th lyhit tblin, k n o I mg of cle oly jt sel b oo hidb fa a af cccs omerhs arm, w r crat, of co g b.etweme fen tthte tly upliic. Jus M rliga a r l in te pu s mttanhelen iet on ple res . En ro te’ p r up t, of cot pusurse.ole ren t e o letsDublin’s Best B.Y.O.B pool hall. a s and p trhicaepperesv f the ev nywhth wa o ex l th e y b v ces me tl, bng ig t nok w tuinness (€5.40), which e p a aisfac y th irh b mis tly mhpf our si li B hin f our situual attirceniin hs Th pgoahrt louli B lit o be desired ul t ttir d a g a litltle s h urs t t ten Isiest us guilig a littble slenuts n tovld of thwe d e ve tint apuy s t tt tuce,e STEP INSIDE JAMESON ouht wao foithiinles on dij vilhy behind a ca h t acent mnsic co t tw to maki pth th to ty h hl e earn campief s a o p w f Joeacenw ere ohind a ch um T k the bott eaed himselftt . Thr tlhpab is t eir couk-esp e taeen g its n h e B et. lio , ilinte t d slo p do d he pus ts mtan iltt Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! e bg ilt oh of thtne ahd m d aif col n Bat rt o p Buc u c sia ame froa . Wimnqtootiovny Bl urs, i, peam de e Pao adjs it’ oacims. U les m stbaaeg, je I aqlff P rliou t , a s o finthi les on dis t mny sio belsic coy-Summer light le di s h h tinlsinle welyea ot dr r p o es a s wurg oue er a sphi u s d o en mics f e srygt at ots. a a concer u caot ude h a en a erd phe taes, t f Jaeace for d oure less scc en s M o ralts, n an sigulavours andage a e Cirnd old k, f ti e beay’ers ongrey tn di d phin l faar s inf rludinoer t e wapt propnhrtioen e sun anreaf f s a hpg n sig vretchiniy com aco e pkuy bbit’ts desigssptaf our too r te d waiar the wa t pro ort eennd orld vel s on I’m told that there’s no pickle brine for my douchey martini but the Negroni that replaces it works like popping a pacifier in a baby’s mouth. Another reason to shut TFU is a steak tartare that comes atop diminutive blue cheese sandwiches which have been steam-warmed. It’s a statement of intent. I’m a big fan of oysters, there’s little to compare with the experience of cold briny bivalves, tasting of oceanic sex, slipping and sliding down your gulliver. I’m a fan of cooked oysters too. Wiley’s Nashville hot oysters (a riff on the furiously hot fried chicken) are reason enough to come here. They are momentarily deep fried before being replaced in their shells with a sauce offering just a suggestion of sting. Sublime. Oyster mushrooms, parmesan fondue on sourdough toast is a pleasant thing to eat but can’t hold a candle to the previous delights. The dish I’d most looked forward to – pork hock, pickles, hot mustard, steamed buns is not on tonight, chef tells me that he’s not quite happy with it and that’s reason enough for me. It’s back on now and I will be back for it. Venison chilli is a deeply involving bowlful, profoundly savoury f aimes bi y bd wll ofino t goa rrahado t , none morlar discs the Sichuanese kitchen is a must order Featuring a dazzling array of things to do,uce (adding ess owervee d on toas lim ent g covlin, bh nys t ppose tdhly h ep-co sof G en tes u es arn te o terts a ty siehrowback thsen ug e litt ile wehbbad fare dr g ninetn o t a bloslr oe per bfues tec a s a b’s f w cierraoinoirtt to sweet alosiine respace im e secort llur petp) f em t nytp, oe td in a fest cre s n - ermor oar deir a femainhr e t ore wn sleinly o u t g bf Guinn he paire s ow are in-t y wore desirroag o ior tins o t eir clossof minie i sevc t o Sers u roa tv o wable aned pt ine p t ua t g betbuinn he pair modern patron. F r tr pr trbwuc ts ado o aers u ro lin wnac q the dirt 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 p esrae lin n hth KI plg aharrounk, sie a sh thl t f r a b trd g - b ptr otl sn ore t or n t eaf g udget bts hrpersy m e A b as eres.n h g o eley tTHE HOME OFle o hn sigr’s bld g ning re a in Dud revo poure les ado e p y likrhes lt – tugh a ccant ausa l bere itr o o ce vesin er m didn’ ts of Guinndens, bh h wo fami av t g bpbuinn hs s, i o wt ies, mlu, betem e , bele nk r Thent a o r s s ad sllo hpindo d d pt th l a re a mt Sf Jae 19. Thiinnat tblin,gn o s d pints o k uinn by tace for dtay-dry o iners (€4.80) lee p y twatoloibmle w en I. Th e s as ers e it. ag y co gperoo t a ort 20 p lo m tld tio h es.r olikl. Arintudenll of the b e e e era n por asstcts, ngeoy wer namle establishm tion evserabg’ W inas sut oeen d t o ae wwaouurgeont entny cewa-ys. rrade-o ld sr tlorhhe ou t p tea his sg t erf c sal hmter o osog a li le s iintus th-ceitlinge e . e s gosiona h t e do t tniond k f thas o bd wai. Ket h inthelan is a man trrl like Ior s ng tac k f e woy feen et six.en limg sen d rut oha sgne ter a se vnmf tohth s nm er arobt cs otgre to my a (€4.80) le t tt of lie woh et eme p e d to h e t o diff n y a ten s w b re others fy blin to b us tge – ralry. Thtt mes nh e o D t wa d pints acom y jo a p e p ctoyved a p t pin t minlsioe waa d rut o im, w eriay-drurkose. The car uc e wa g rept oooidh of Pinta seeme lin g rhin drm no af ths. I feend s se t s no ers, iet s I’m told that there’s no pickle brine for my douchey martini but the Negroni that replaces it works like popping a pacifier in a baby’s mouth. Another reason to shut TFU is a steak tartare that comes atop diminutive blue cheese sandwiches which have been steam-warmed. It’s a statement of intent. I’m a big fan of oysters, there’s little to compare with the experience of cold briny bivalves, tasting of oceanic sex, slipping and sliding down your gulliver. I’m a fan of cooked oysters too. Wiley’s Nashville hot oysters (a riff on the furiously hot fried chicken) are reason enough to come here. They are momentarily deep fried before being replaced in their shells with a sauce offering just a suggestion of sting. Sublime. Oyster mushrooms, parmesan fondue on sourdough toast is a pleasant thing to eat but can’t hold a candle to the previous delights. The dish I’d most looked forward to – pork hock, pickles, hot mustard, steamed buns is not on tonight, chef tells me that he’s not quite happy with it and that’s reason enough for me. It’s back on now and I will be back for it. Venison chilli is a deeply involving bowlful, profoundly savoury y! I plonk m g betwwn at a r, err s ints clos r trhximity to t e tennis Te pu rs s ugg a oast is thr he to ar r th t’s deli .g. y s g sinalin forecise evenu .eningh y wowle stie sltl htaev ar s a huat-seal os idea of ennil €6) i s sllrilllek on Pit ol outlnell Squar vy ar a den sush sto fkte a bi l s lineueparettoir itreu hi . En r e String a frcc Mulligan and Haines, the otherwise unnamed English student who stays with Mulligan, this Dame Street bar occupies what was once Sweeney’s Mongrel, what was once Le Cirk, nated p o ar , I paasr o onpies wt vt was o ce a eney’s Mlon r ug in s once Le Cirk, eut v w e m, robs ohi o t goa o aak uate. It looks rea y acingly spicy and pro- Web e oxclusive conthent also.hnique from a kitchen that on your face as it puts a notch on your belt. Atc ee and mat he tsigblt into t, jun h ur b l eses y i lu tl wn sly idenlyie uld gnd mh. Bsigh s urgsre I am des efrtlaos s oirdcoe Binnaerwe Rau. Thb f th oire a e r asnh t pen mics fta , at en a din us w t ouin e nal ure ob oyceath a q liinurkose ese p w-s s n indeph dent eriver fd a p f G en tes to it. I m a ur ere i oo doooasn Dratinu erepe twye-upposedly o tlhe btbb noas n Du lin, o su h s h rt ” tly he lotineno patnmss, perm e rof when mics farne R. The se s es a ot s n int th liloace f r duay-drinese desired. s spe pteaer garmienaing a li le sat cotile hig e seace r ta d sigiugs, bath bhoteparartvub, bgnw ot i eaer gahe tena ne bt There ias, iot s we a er tpes gat wDublin’s B-eitst B.Y.O.B pool hall. cog ection… a dr oink of idosulelic pl nt naotionhests (€5.40), w e tep af tldn’e b inh, b o be aies puwa s sbo t oe Hoen so pser o ougves a n w g uaagt, akhtas more a ago D r - ore Sadd o fn De citsic cothaoo egutar h rosmr et t les td alt intovurhnee ah pdret o e h u tyt g tts gle s s onad ceinlind do m hihin . Iylives n l n g a alcov g tholic, oliv wees ae t bdent h ies, mur t g b buinn. Thir odepas it – tast t co ay memwersaceg e oo door se th a foom e tf G en t nq ootues.ts gionine urs t rs, oth of our loc l musics e n t ine ent l n g a es you to adj s it’s in e w yt t drver mk ur hhl uirTh lucen uden f Pc rlis perva r ‘ p Bes akene - otcd wa THE HOME OF wlell a izzare sy u y en umm t eae oce. e g ars vt y coropacies ws o n s oicece ’ ove tpf th pre Raud ty’ ere m t r eo t entny cettwa-ys. le Rwhhim f etlted dir cr wot er lighte an ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the o resur t oe f a mobttlini g ass susar fttorden blin fao t o eguaag m m pt tes g in terfed cocs ookrthf taheir amenr ths m eir coclifm ireir a f h roacent moe on car fpt seorse, ta. Ar d tihr s t h un o ugg coint erehg ts wrays tpeeos-e e reahan anytthing edse. uoy minetwh. Theair oes yon an et tl b” t to fly hn Dg jbmn csser - ad as a “sitst s not. S g jk s in t eir r m nces f t tt wy Buae seuygtsafnarge osenesap en se aps tha acioerua ude h t oded th o racahinlein nu nt olishd thrafed cohhr prcrkohvt;iees a t,s v heuvu n ge esff Pehliy-s pertva--d se efh tial he len o oeb ltn urude h ig ruirweplos a u - g e se ca . Brinh set Staga n ig rim lcohoreyllic, oca te 19’lethinTHE HOME OF el ’l aw deg ths pdiculd cosg ottside wenaa ji sit tra wild fas der eg e es al mit by in tidssthi a shing t ud a den f m tl W h a e gat 20 pe s orgiv, i.so JAMESON a re a md ceiolino n Dhis wu ps wliny w e p Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! hihe pus wles on diva ed p oo b ief sumai h each otherrom s ateo, plump Buck d Hae tes, th mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s hen she’s BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM potato soup ont-seat view his pr wn Featuring a dazzling arracy of things to do,y circses mteio s un d suh lhs, M bfacebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ an ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from n o y were was n lo st h batuiere, t en i ove teac f th e cotniah o jubs e yt hs; Hlliaim Streoos Da o t tin asure o e waas is n e o h bu “ e tr tlize thri a e oeh t tperk a d b unile eser bliahmlen ky centre reot y inrtse ou ourgsamn h l h of our lo l music. s nth bta h oy t d aild heat ust a mi hmaerh of Pined the A SITE FOR GLAD E n a py w t-toat co wuo aoke couct go d oka s o aerd cei aearqth of our loiclal music g anhat tb ilin,indowo ra ts, nendfunage a le y prl like Im stp ay behind a cage – ice erDublin’s Bev’ tst B.Y.O.B pool hall.s I’er anofm fravlin agple o in peis f idon wt righo oinon, o less.) A per ave t o difgfy-So t g re aummrantioht e Hf oeshoe bap roves a h udenkloum iur h l ok ft er pn u io vs. I feotg vtion m ero td oldlent tnat BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 JAMESON OR GLAD Et i’izzas. I o s s The Horseshoe Bar atless.) As Irfmed a coi g pf tck oh, I des s s p t , b tls wil mro Grotuinnt cercide to coi w, o-n a nigln a nig mulliganandhaines.ie Brato, Shig pecir d looking A rot cer p A SITE F c d paob brpule t, bu ginet n e mowv e p ht like 085-2357664 Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM among pr wn toast pauperss. Rich pork dump- Featuring a dazzling array of things tpemo do,f p own as The www.thehideout.ie ing. Everyone’s judging. Whatever. We make our peace with being an installation in the centre of the room and have at it. At €38 the (‘convivial’) tasting menu here lar discs Wior de oco a ,e ll e tasteshe heat ratchets up u oreav ser ikg e tren astes rom th 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 art o n a cr spfacebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ e menu) a Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. The Pavillion Bar BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. A SITE FOR GLAD Elf oYES a mulliganandhaines.iet a s an p trd p lepperted f , oenioun, by mou ere e se. seaso et wien. I l rs p , oeniouo b y mou erd m usho mulliganandhaines.ietside inch the lldnt o , b o be aeninYES e wlh n biine t p cia o stick wio G h thn a nigw, o e p ht likehich Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 represents one of the best deals in the city although you can also order à la carte, if you like. We start with good sourdough, good olives and good almonds. I’d be happy for every meal to start the same way. If you’re ‘doing small plates’ it seems obligatory to include a croquette – the cheese and onions ones here, with tarragon aioli are paragons of the form. Deeply savoury, crisp and light. You’ve probably seen the anchovies in your social (force) feeds already and that’s no s the f b ery b enped o anhtee Nutbutter Forbes Street Grand Canal Dock Dublin 2 www.nutbutter.ie Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com Locks 1 Windsor Terrace launch their Christmas lunch menu on Wednesday 2nd December. Locks 1 Windsor Terrace launch their Christmas lunch menu on Wednesday 2nd December. www.thehideout.ie Locks 1 Windsor Terrace launch their Christmas lunch menu on Wednesday 2nd December. A SITE FOR GLAD EYES Featuring a dazzlinbg arro lay orf thinkgs to do,nes mnlt Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. 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LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION spr y denizens of D7, this is all the neighbourLASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. s o ermentf ‘it’o iaearing ur ing f f o o It’l nf al ty ittpneten b a salty omato wota er €4 tnxample in the mullet dish, n the t rue LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION ttesnt ale ear t ae Mureay’s as cpra ac r a restricti.ve . Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic read made fy coating er by Lumney’s Bread in I corn sla to its o igins w is jellified fn b hile delie than an afterace ling a fll a ln in to essences - the taste bd a condenle od pluff pa t n a cr sfacebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic and rich, shot through with the fresh heat of jalapeños and balanced with gouts of cooling sour cream. The accompanying cornbread is the best I’ve had outside its native country. If it’s not on the menu you should petition for it. The dish that many will gravitate to is, of course, the fried chicken. They would be right to do so. Right now it is hands down the best in town. Perfectly moist thigh meat encased in a salty, spicy coating. The biscuit is perfect, the corn slaw more than an afterthought. Go get it. Their banana split is a dessert to put a smile on your face as it puts a notch on your belt. At least two of our party are instantly infantilised. Service is charming throughout and it’s immediately apparent that the floor manager runs a tight ship. The food here describes itself modestly but it could justify much bolder claims. I’d give a joint of my right pinkie for a restaurant of such quality in my manor. For the lucky denizens of D7, this is all the neighbourhood restaurant they will ever need. The rest of us will be hard pressed to find a better reason to cross the river. This is a North Star to follow. and rich, shot through with the fresh heat of ts a cat’ h thf ‘i ’y di f trat o . Th e m s rays. Alql thsitehiyh nchico w mororwor no other rer leason than it is possib. u le ur b spread (€3.50 s wd bn. Tents in th pollen – I king ano maccd hon y) ames to €104, ex ludink o of h t Nutba os, co d almest enjd bd when tan their t least tw an t er €4 to t e menu) are too inten wd bh inasut it’or me a rles o h it. T to do so hich in55 menludes two b ttrt wiles oth stt to put a smile out d a condensed pl FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM ness owned by the Kirwan brothers, the food offering at Nutbutter is best enjoyed when taken outside of the context of “clean eating.” It’s healthy food that tastes good and happens to be mostly plant-based, sometimes raw, and occasionally sprinkled in goji berries. I like Murray’s approach when he explains that he doesn’t think of plantbased food as a lifestyle choice or a restrictive diet. “We want our menu to be accessible to everyone and to add to the choice of what’s on offer elsewhere,” he says. “One night you might eat Italian at home, the next you might have a Thaiinspired meal. The third evening you might come out to Nutbutter for a plant-based dinner.” That sounds like a balance that I can get behind. ADVANCED PICOSURE® d hl e t-bif el r sm o wd t -lo king immediately appar from China. I was known to eat instant noodles out of a flower pot as a kid (not an abuse scenario), but I came of age with my first bowl of ‘real’ ramen in 2004 in a small, sweaty restaurant on 1st Ave in New York’s East Village. Reader – that restaurant was Momofuku and the small, sweaty guy labouring over the gigantic stockpot was one David Chang. If you don’t know who that is then you don’t know noodles. He almost single-handedly created the ramensurge that rose in NYC and crashed in London. Sadly, the splash never really reached our shores and I was forced to undertake overseas noodle pilgrimages to satiate my ravening desire. Seems I could have saved myself a few transatlantic flights if only I had listened to the people making noise about The Ramen Bar on South William Street. Forgive me Clara, I just didn’t want to believe. We had some fun with an order of Chicken Karaage Cheeseburgers which resemble wee bao sliders. ‘Fried chicken, pickles, cheese, what’s not to like?’ deadpans my own harajuku girl, and I’ll second the sentiment. We also enjoyed some kimchi mozzarella arancini with tobanjan mayo. Arancini really are fuego right now. Nevertheless, you could proceed directly to the main event and still have a swell time. A good bowl of ramen is proof against cold and dark, a help to your heart, a salve to your soul and a boon to your belly. These are good bowls of noodles. A paltry €25 buys you a smartly boxed ramen pack for two with clear instructions for heating and assembly. You could just order take-out but where’s the fun in that? The Classic Tonkotsu delivers that rich, milky broth slicked with collagen that comes from porcine bones and patience while the Kokoro Torishio features a delicate chicken stock fragrant with ginger. Either bowl could hold their own in Tokyo. If you want to show somebody that you care over the holiday send them a pack and treat yourself too. You could fire up the Zoom (other video-conferencing platforms are available), prep and slurp together in real time. If that’s not the spirit of the season, then I don’t know what is. Nevertheless, I hope that we are all lucky enough to be around people we care for this Christmas and wise enough to keep our distance from people we don’t. May our spirits be high and our infection rates low. outh atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping mistake. They’re as art-directed as they are delicious. These are Cantabrian specimens, fat and firm and glossy, arrayed on palisade planks of toast slicked with a preserved lemon aioli. Other fingers of toast are soldiers. These ones are special forces. Get them if you drop by for a glass of something post art-consumption. Or go here to specifically to eat them, have a glass of wine and 86 the art altogether. It will probably just repeat on you anyway. Slices of Skeaghanore duck with Thai slaw in baby gem cups take us away from the Iberian/Italian slant of the rest of the menu but eat perfectly well nevertheless. There were no formal wine pairings, but The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 we are guided through these courses with excellent recommendations from their (daily changing) by-the-glass list. A couple of Portuguese whites were particularly interesting. Fresh burrata sits in a verdant puddle of herb oil, joined by asparagus, garden peas and the bosky perfume of Summer truffles, it is the very essence of the season. Killian Durkin’s execution of the pasta dishes at Mamó are always outstanding and this carries through to a knockout plate of tagliolini in a rich fennel sausage ragù. It will calm the nerves of those types who worry about small plates lacking ballast. We finish by dredging warm madeleines though the darkness of a chocolate crème brûlée and we feel pretty good about ourselves. The service is that type of unobtrusive attentiveness that you get from industry veterans. Relaxed, knowledgable and warm without becoming too chummy, they judge the level of interaction that the table wants and work accordingly, just as it is at the Howth flagship. There’s no alchemy at work here, just top-drawer ingredients treated with the respect that allows them to shine. The only magic trick is the way that each course disappears. The DNA of the parent restaurant is apparent. I enjoyed a stellar dinner there just days after their re-opening and I’m gratified that the kid’s turning out similarly unaffected and confident plates. It’s in the genes. mulliganandhaines.ieis . Ue tounes, wle wtoutc d f, ot oft tut my mlol unlf bns wt Hts naut a tenne imtin ouracttaco 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 and rich, shot through with the fresh heat of jalapeños and balanced with gouts of cooling sour cream. The accompanying cornbread is the best I’ve had outside its native country. If it’s not on the menu you should petition for it. The dish that many will gravitate to is, of course, the fried chicken. They would be right to do so. Right now it is hands down the best in town. Perfectly moist thigh meat encased in a salty, spicy coating. The biscuit is perfect, the corn slaw more than an afterthought. Go get it. Their banana split is a dessert to put a smile on your face as it puts a notch on your belt. At least two of our party are instantly infantilised. Service is charming throughout and it’s immediately apparent that the floor manager runs a tight ship. The food here describes itself modestly but it could justify much bolder claims. I’d give a joint of my right pinkie for a restaurant of such quality in my manor. For the lucky denizens of D7, this is all the neighbourhood restaurant they will ever need. The rest of us will be hard pressed to find a better reason to cross the river. This is a North Star to follow. hood restaurant they will eethe’leshin elown in my concrete jung es The Horseshoe Bar at v cog fer a Ben… a dr radi thd fi t m ortn tle mu p o’sim f ncidednly fit fe o ur king Amer Iced Gems from Hen’s Teeth, limited edition ice creams available in three incredible flavours… Basil & Caramelised White Choc, Black Sesame & Mexican Dulce De Leche, and White Miso & Pecan Crunch. Their makers say they’re ‘criminally delicious’. We’ll happily do the time. hensteethstore.com two sides: its sophisticateen l hind i L Mo ad b s sins we a huanthyve noteeras, two pfuceh ese ia tt, d ers sinnio ide inninlig is s dhlt pd als –o th dehy osrde being the white, elega h fl bbhinad fes s c e s n m y oae wvuy ty phone k a a yhe baer ec y hi flle thten inugor romts uyspesing he coue wh p s, b ld t owas, t.wo pfuce-an sents the little webb d fe e dring ninnd Io’nm less ttu n s , r h tihtesp. Rlera o as wkos-t certtaio y Cad é? ta oo a puaetUnfn t te cd tthe eer ol , b th coue s ktain y anot o oer-pacion er w y ah a vend icrp nya e p unart ku a y hir t iny r aver cominin , snead for €14 – i eet f rae Bensitsion. I wt iury-h o ld ftaer drae de b e s pn e spayr; i ay ena s a ine paray o avian counterpart, w e Ae d nt epeaf whaoo ump va, which p crmi lr P nuaio ur dfacekpt Haatn t ee nu being the white, elega gn eir lehe it? ifls a pe if ie mmar t. It s ets hier paa in in nt r h o tte lee wrer avian counterpar w ta fach o t. As w da d cn mag h y’s dot tesie drintk ao seeha state of ideth ug con ing Uar er wahs I phrr or tioe wmi n f l , t e n o can 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 and nigh lawless a e m tenwn t puauaghe drap mfcog’t of tt t . Fittinnier ems patr-rodinif l c r-opo co ss ohe bpq sents the little webbed f are dring nin er ane se se taet. e t t o tf th te o inin inet n ow te ts tnk wall and nigh lawless are acwn tnure o in a co le ots u e space a e ouves imaty bes “inh A Pndy’s face is ftpuoscent in resigning toemse Considering what ‘Irish food’ means today The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 the water. One mig t app gie, inooar at er dointvrce o un ats nap rcrinaineerlic ar m cea hin tuhvidinl Cr ace h w esae blderine i The Horseshoe Bar allt in a cot ace res y be an thioh y g lle oef tirts obles thrg Aes lh coilic pmer oan to s g co ll moe’m les hi gr tg pe t icr ss pevf eroun The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 The Horseshoe Bar athe rpter esc the water. One mig t a i Thh t e lim but it’d b Humphrey’so au lo Fvks gohe facelif the dirt Humphrey’s lod hyperb hlic desk idlio. Thl wahim g w t exp un imf mini t gop e awn jluasl but it’d be nothing w ou bt tee oe the facelif d ie so l wat a t io u Dth th rave tr . Uuna eeyk on d setesaecen Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 the dirty work. y work. The Pavillion Bar en o gen f g lin-bs ins a trinf-thhere I h e tles, but i e e ‘the Star Waret in o ts lib o dioo te-miisl bvt r baiing avo t prov a d art t Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 GIN FOR THE WIN AT LISllinTOKEcerts) it’sior us ‘S s stier S ling t e ro f or tl ju th e merin-D fu y swes n th t e heinou th th exper s ptice wllossiitle that t exper s p, its t 085-2357664t co y t s t ly tastad fin n b tt’e time I co snt rig McGarry’s 236-238 McGarry’s 236-238 peños and balanced with gouts ofle lf ‘ s gf th d enin s ra. s sor q the best I’ve had outside its nati e countrys s eslid opal le aou should petition f d is a s lid optl Web exclusive contvent also. ’t t y exhiWeb eexclusive ceontent also.s a soh by exhibiting style and substance. In the kitchen, jars of fermented cabbage are on their way to becoming kimchi for the chilli, lime and tamarind rice bowl (€7.50). The bread used for their toast is a deliciously thick wedge of sweet brown bread made for Nutbutter by Lumney’s Bread in Inchicore. Their Nutella-style cacao and hazelnut spread (€3.50 served on toast with banana, bee pollen – I know – and honey) and almond butters are all made by Murray’s team in the kitchen. Similarly to Sprout & Co, the plant-based busiy thc ent that the f . T Web exclusive content also.y circ se oasWeb exclusive conho t tent also.ectly moist thigh meat encased inlle thick wedge oi pf swecet brown foams often serve to distance one frtom theirt t iwn. Perfn a p eart o nl (€7.50). Thies, e ven te cidge frlir? P ar bly becomes w barde a s wur ’ mf ofusion of g ter s ihe e h crosts in the and tat t -e ea Web exclusive conitent also. um ssaryv T wi, spicth salt c mhe biscuit is perfect, the re. Their Nute a-s yt le cthought. Go getut s a deAA inlgy dely deliciond, sn e. f. Right no f Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie l n ur et s g r exl made by M ese instantly infanti-e con ext o nclean e ve g” It’s heolthy lised. Service is charming throughout and it’ ers a e alcels at prhoducing fussed-oy h h one thr own but work really well as a mouthfu.l. Our ba ugh a Simi arooly thaprout ir oo d anttestaurasud buosi pespect r thd he food heroyed when tak sio nll modestly bh s res auraf “t may haing ness owADVANCED PICOSURE®e Kl es gs s, t e p anappe fill wat t-b sather than aff runs a tight shipff o erin m ahiee canalmos, co etimi h really lolvo €104, exn uding t sprinkled in goji berran ea h bolder ea rlan accg at Nutbat , som, w t ection. Teld oy foocca ienp na y outside of tThi It do place refers to a kitchen gh Victorian g hden is more a “Irish food” is something many of us struggle to define. Today it’s a marketing buzzword adopted by the food plutocrats and deployed as a marketing tool. The term can be used in a cynical way to attract hordes of tourists and export vast quantities of livestock and their byproducts. At the same time, it makes me think about how the food we eat here has dramatically changed. This leads me to wonder if we can shift the meaning to celebrate our blended heritage. We’ve come a long way from what was once a diet that largely constituted salted meats, tubers and brassicas. That’s before we’ve even touched on “bia bán” – which quite literally translates into “white food” – a term referring to potatoes, milk, butter and grains, all of which formed the mainstay of our diet prior to the 20th century. After that dip into our relatively short food history – its progression blighted by oppression and colonialism – is it accurate to say that the food which we identify as “Irish” today, is in fact the food of yesterday? If we focus solely on the indiginous food of our past (albeit there are many wonderful things about it) we are at risk of ignoring the diverse community and cooking styles in practice in Ireland right now. It might sound contradictory to regard dishes the mena soranklie iyork op o eraoa ositheir lofceny c th at co lld bklit Hnsider d othlinic o . Ar in ll s isi ts ot o tefe po the menutl sh e f f tioth s t ld b ort of thhtt we o t be looking forward to an encore.r teerfniofun, berh) fa Unfts. A be loorking forward to an encore., iicl in nt ts a sac 085-2357664iisit co ay tp e t kr picih, I decide t iol s sus re tprayrs w h o co ur ing U f top a, ws o, de hich p otmi ha tick w n tt n tainol s.u izzas. I faceormei pcidedly firt foar psur ose.g ao st re tit ole oo nmalis-e m to texpho terp r tce wb iout mi e Plr tn is, tue b g ‘he ro fet gust th facee spapa, we ots t dh p lera a sv w no cae t dee u Stage 19 well a s o sepble k u ase tes liks lib hio le’ o by compa e sa ru ld bht . Ftinler peetrt s t er Swh lelt t’ o - The Pavillion Bar er dinn aa s its gatnn asd t et a s ider tble t wll b r biin I pcomin o fgs, apert for a brace od ps lib The Pavillion Barro Alf ner dinnga, I rurfaces h e be pider trt w ur ld a h t l ot fts gat d traun-of-thr b 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 migf Smfeer wyuvelysklie a e et tucure ple dr ticurlina yh tert fggso . As coe to s th w tI p h ecth tahvlt. Fran y e nothing with e mite lim ods o or manyt a e m y t vsorrat t ai,oecoer oinylll nal, b em, r teh coe skaglei h d iffer h t t t tonespennfees nlos d its asts nemets t d seocen y a h The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie t, t eir letd i th y coing f v h s I p iod cs s ld tos eers ser bea. nks. Si t et p aylefpp ace tin f our ollhth hser pa ronll ya he bag ‘ecnt yta 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 st Tholry lickain ar area ush le h taps oot co y dier nateld aleo t n oing fum o goe way di. Frrytk. Thi il hige inaray otl two sides: its sophi Stage 19eny ne oneecen seanh, whah tshs p oaa y s ttep dh io f a e siga, ha’t’l btin efg t o in in te t lco f h ts w n ble f wahtext I co ld gde s eo w teressew d wurd alndra- tlhf genlid Budk, a “ bes s h e s iouh Krgs, a erassreoo a t ety n e recenq d websittin h a rh er th t o woo pet kfaces hle fy, desao coio plnesumtetrt-eadble h ext I co n h l er dinn. T, I rranc oor gpavf gt h hiner ice var b s sph t he ihchr cvinis; i y m r ho “ ak une t wa prgs ougy’b o be f, ms f sbsietce ts prr en tinth-a a co h p ess co ang mor une t wa gs oug ov rhhiner unr d-in q d r e wy expe coraon t ar iku a ey hir io’uo olune id-in qb a ff b ft ip’d b le s readed tes ar dere fe er doinsi-a u al. The bi, ch af th r at thog wks r t ale e oaghs ttounho d os eaptriaf cl Cr tslioosoded o cru They say you shouldn’t mix business with pleasure, but there’s a welcome chance to combine both at Listoke Distillery this summer. Founder Bronagh Conlon has launched an innovative online fundraiser raffling off 5% of the family business. An incredible top prize gives one lucky gin-ner the opportunity to own part of the much-loved distillery, while also acquiring first dibs on tasting Listoke’s everexpanding product range. Second prize is a gin-tastic 10,000, while the third prize-winner receives 5,000 and a case of Listoke products. Hosted by Listoke via competition app Raffall, participants must be aged 18+. Tickets cost £20 stg at raffall.com. listokedistillery.ie in-Dub n a n one-ylou-die li e bhr ft clles, bat iourt p itvides u d room position to teon l’t ft.ter in and oat foh t-to-eat-s and ch in-D b This is a tn a neig inld itsey mh d n any w ur11/11/2015 10:08l a little s11/11/2015 10:08 aor s, we wouo t want tn, b acon and mls in n d hibably tas ldn’ni in , b t m n n a or smo and its responsibility to both sell lasagne and chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday and Saturday clearly rank highly on the management’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain and its responsibility to both sell lasagne and chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday and Saturday clearly rank highly on the management’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain It’ uch saltt caramge of i . Arns i sno e goa earitly on, the barriotuancee rea e fble, the def rb in , m uc worse. e s ot r nd pood sbitleh efinement b away w r in io ks to meir way t o absootion Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie . I’t tasves goo luc inkled in goji b ppea one al eins t ata . No Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie an at home c flaims a w en h Mic d as slt l a bt . N n o be mos lk ointglaain y still a b thde bent to the prissy will of the designer r ant-bant ofooome c n eat tiimth r lt tly loee ccood aa d s k Right no ’w, I’ ies. I lia plestauraasseed f trd as a lifees yw le chld oy fasion It do e want o r t ke Muro be acces Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie ood thh lot b e exp a n my right pinkie for a es ra herv diet. “ esnt a d prefh t this tram i ps a prosibg a o eveh k Michalin sh t he do er need. T f plaan y still a base doord at to eaestyere. o w en hempt meadorw ofn wildflo k o, or just hunker hs a lif t thle ch ice or a r htric i e us will be hard pressed to find a better r t v Ita ali vert ohis is a North Star to followv - sew ere,” he says. “One nig t you might eat diet. “We wan. Tur menu to be accessible to e e cross the rin at home, the next you might h.ave a Thairyone and to add to the choice of what’s on offer else hw ere,” he says. “One night you might eat I UNWINDtbe n tali out to Nu, thu ext you mig t haavsed dinner.” That sounds like a b la ance that I can get behind. insp eir d meal. The third evening you might come out to Nutbutter for a plant-based dinner.” That sounds like a b la ance that I can get behind. Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490 of foreign origin as local or ‘typical’. However, ingredients such as sugar, spices, dried citrus, currants and tea (each a product of globalisation) have long been staples in our culinary larder. Despite hailing from distant shores, these provisions ironically form the basis of many of our traditional recipes. Our speckled fruit loaf, known as Bairín Breac or Barmbrack, is an example of that. One could argue that family favourites such as chilli con carne, “spag bol”, chicken tikka masala and even fish and chips are now ingrained within our food identity. These bastardised versions of dishes from foreign cultures are examples of immigration, acculturation and/or imperialism. Clarifying what Irish food is today perhaps requires an assessment of what we eat, not solely what dishes we ate. Who knows, Feijoada might be the next generation’s Tuesday night favourite… I’m often asked who serves the most authentic Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie rye exp nd to add t v e ch t ts, iters’s cert inltd f t ea lot but it’s still a beautiful room over-looking the canal, with really lovely food and service. It doesn’t appear that this team is chasing a Michelin star. Nonetheless, it’s certainly still a treat to eat there. d gitut it’ areins teaupen eth opriate, with ltnatur, sa aetlh quality in my manor suc, w o eaa t, an . oice o. Fnllor the er to weay’ s c a ac responsibility to be all things to all men when they operate in relative geographical isolation, it all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Dublin that makes you feel like you’re having a pint in Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps this curious unDublin quality is the very thing that attracts much of their clientele. Having recently visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs would be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin to a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style bar/ restaurant – useful for both family dining and unavoidable work drinks. This dubious distinction alone assures Rody’s position within the Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie w – an heir banana split is a dessercolate t ou a lot ofd er and tw ice cream a hiutteer i n by exhibiting style and substance. In the kitchen, jars of fermented cabbage are on their way to becoming kimchi for the chilli, lime and tamarind rice bowl (€7.50). The bread used for their toast is a deliciously thick wedge of sweet brown bread made for Nutbutter by Lumney’s Bread in Inchicore. Their Nutella-style cacao and hazelnut spread (€3.50 served on toast with banana, bee pollen – I know – and honey) and almond butters are all made by Murray’s team in the kitchen. Similarly to Sprout & Co, the plant-based busia lot of I staly in t side. I cin I’eam. The accompanying cor fd as potter in artd out fosing tnd rn rar fhats. e evegu arrnd deheir wd th e h’at can fee ’n way cat’ luded the best (strewberrty) sorbet ,e eater s sea rso enn ld al r d delicio th crosnbread is palate fatigue begins to insinuate itself quite n. a lifeless p a ention aA o pn apule tarl t o e weiek’p. Ifr it’le of puff pastr g s u y ost-Ange u r l a h or it.en,’t th e goion. side. I c rlhuh t y dei vinh. Th enin’ ’t i o ex n a neigot. Bus. A ou and its responsibility to both sell lasagne a chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday a Saturday clearly rank highly on the manag ment’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain the nwacessa y sus and its responsibility to both sell lasagne a chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday a Saturday clearly rank highly on the manag ment’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain ra us a in he pr’ ahiha attentioefolin-bn ar hb c ho ne bar fl an fe11/11/2015 10:08 e y, mruc ost-Angeluort r b rrns isn o wo pe fa n, t e ne liferless penance. I stay in tur ur g coo svine u v u Ilin-befeigru y mun o icles, but it p lifeless p tene th lhs, McGa ry’s i r ositd and deliciolf on an I This is a tru responsibility to be all things to all men when they operate in relative geographical isolation, it all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Dublin that makes you feel like you’re having a pint in Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps this curious unDublin quality is the very thing that attracts much of their clientele. Having recently visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs would be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin to a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style bar/ restaurant – useful for both family dining and unavoidable work drinks. This dubious distinction alone assures Rody’s position within the Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie v ferfour and a lot of tec s b outside of tThity ar t with salt caramel and praline ice cream stays true to its origins while delivering a flair of finesse. The elements in the chocolate tart with stout ice cream and a condensed plum sauce (adding another €4 to the menu) are too intense on their own but work really well as a mouthful. Our bill, which includes two bottles of still water and two macchiatos, comes to €104, excluding tip. This restaurant may have gone through a Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie or Nutbutt ADVANCED PICOSURE® The elemhat €e Kir h b not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie llut work rva y welair of finou y thc t wwait n buys yanona, bee onoyeut s r y’s teaf “t mhe kiac g ut it could justify muctve g.” It’s h olthy e a joint ofillin sh t he doesns t om ovs, it’-lookf p n y ervice d harptifuol ropprt tert y est enje describes itself . e’leshin s cer eason to utter is bes t es raw, ac he name of thevice. e con ext o ncppies. I lik on s tram ior o urrat auram in taveratinen. wa r others, tf stens too b-e mosvertloyo ooger d a d ser n a p le t m a uds are at second remo e. nater. Tor era, fel a d praline ice crram see too intays t not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. c s ious an hioslli, lim he bridge faor? Pro a i eir w orries, eg t e brhoraocooaly? ro a W err ur menu tander through an un-h sinhle t o tesn h w he rest of oice of what’s on offer le. responsibility to be all things to all men whe they operate in relative geographical isolatio all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Du that makes you feel like you’re having a pint Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps t curious unDublin quality is the very thing th attracts much of their clientele. Having rece visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs wo be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style ba restaurant – useful for both family dining an unavoidable work drinks. This dubious dist tion alone assures Rody’s position within th Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW responsibility to be all things to all men whe they operate in relative geographical isolatio all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Du that makes you feel like you’re having a pint Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps t curious unDublin quality is the very thing th attracts much of their clientele. Having rece visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to sa there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs wo be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style ba restaurant – useful for both family dining an unavoidable work drinks. This dubious dist tion alone assures Rody’s position within th Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW o it’s gts ong , s. Te. n tle deliver h Ilicio h h cr Ier been arlicio un haos r sm11/11/2015 10:08es a idge folr? P y, m h li t-As. All of th n feee s s est oeur urrag coore o regu a n Is it wets t ound. W t it demoke br nl of my nd foochuruh o space herte. Suffice to say that one of y ditlicioene e ur, sure.a’g s so exl the wlt tle not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. s, trraith this kind ofll of my? ro a ood that cae wel a litttle ssaid aletd s ad cld chots. 11/11/2015 10:0811/11/2015 10:08 Tht w en. They would be right terb blyh stout ven t us ard reaskoe faood s g a flels and hh t t e ea ks to ma n skonara , t ense o ao and hazes a messtehf l. O oo g tienp. ill, s and rn t e k cline ice cr tion , ofo abs rbbr 11/11/2015 10:08l a litttle staid a dld do s trguo a s g e e n ae megt i coolinguisita y s p Iottt ws ier in a h crors, t ut ior smones a ini eam stays t insp eir d meal. The third evening you might come tter for a pl hant-b e a ThaiAobaba Sound PR woman Deirdre Hynds recently made the shift from brand marketing to brand creation, with the launch of a unique new range of evening snack bars designed especially for night owls. Made in Ireland using a number of natural night-time friendly ingredients such as chamomile, L-theanine, and Montmorency Cherry, the accompanying website also features some cool original content ideally suited to evening relaxation. Treat yourself to a soporific Malted Milk and Chocolate bar, then take a deep dive and unwind with guided evening meditations, bedtime stories for grown-ups and sleepy stretchy yoga sequences. Available in your local health food store or premium independent retailer. Unwind stockists so far include Nourish, The Health Store and Restore on Camden Street. unwind.ie dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cocktails. dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cocktails. It’s unIl n he be ent rus ar t o pin ood o a o s a, sd comfys. A g t e h prete b in tioden fnr t easkonts aled he definibs rbt e wlhile, e-you-die listoanstica a ave weeeroveeros s ess a ustos ance.e u rd fourunoad tha t cavo eek’l a li e a yw n r sman n huy w urs. Ad tll of thun fd w h atrt er gaio ks td r sonable, the definit d o t fsing tht demae b idge far? Probabb b us, McGarry’s in a cr s Irish food? In response to this conundrum, “bia bán” never crossed my mind. Instead, I think of all of the places that I love to eat in Dublin and that form the basis of what Irish food is to me. If you’re lucky enough to get a seat, my favourite lunch in Dublin can be found at Assassination Custard, a small cafe opposite Kevin St. Garda station. While the owners Ken and Gwen . Ih h the llhs ’nit wa t tt m enings rays. Aquisit h nvt less s e we l a s pizza tth e ‘the Surgers, ah trate bry’) a d ci li s p ta o wou s, bpy en s a ne ben’ of tf co leg etacei.tr ien tice wl I sl einioth dumml h c kes oor ost gu uswuio pints and vi vsiisit co y th ahte im ihl aueler gaial co r n a prev h sp l o siblin-beforesf-the-mi ld ci li s ples asug e m oenin-Dts gatnd t ver wre-y y’) a lks. A ranate in ti legs (wah uroom p t gery, dr wn’ n js swinne sypale olegnerw- hat-tos st in . Ad ne b r fl mnfts. Arliptrtoina radi he b s (€9.50 e e a Uoidaa n ad t, b mes lller for a f d asi k o a sstotrnunarobaboth cosk i , o e i erle m len an ro o daco p o 085-2357664d c bbvi a ces md lolha i e topic h ts.”urse p ht like oscentinf ind onas miesta ueaod b ni oc s ‘. Fer t thd saed t stat Life i h h in t e f tth d h p f het pa. rhtl vernt coeti an e tkhie erao sng o tdlidapterhihts ny tf tesetanie hefniou m a ad buncnio innin. I. S hets hi umms sainete s t e bliest t h muno t. Ihhe loc ununkt rld po am ldn’r ter a co ps littnroyew th wa u we acf b s wrt oroga n to te ing Ut dd cace aitice wlr hich ps, b tm v wtlg ‘c , S t les im y bes “ya tg at oial coot u r. U oune f s, we wou k er for a fers li iesn fn aere e seus o l shie anie. Iot wd isideres does depd i rn s patioerfnpow raun-osion. I wurnder whict it g oscennbvtt les e o ciaar l uf er a co ave t t b b y t sn. A thhe nrepcess ‘Ssdary sus tas ’ o h n asts) it’o s p e sy uurgerrs, aher Ser ancen a pret tth u cont tsious Rennie immeo ate y as a o se ld cos t e to g ar s, we wouoottll er in a d o t f e e se.us kd-es anl of p egu ars ploind itseus, t ut it demokes a ld ch bossib tasle ty in tt e b g thme t ost gustva outislyin cia ces mciay dit oe th. Th, oes eag’s ra r peguioan to te urrepuin a es e raun-oruoy mun slockles, bh t it prov surrepu s, bt mr W et in o ts libd sthu-die liilsl bafir biin inin ern e conhThis iunwes do ’t fl .ert f tsldlf o taer uen f gi ts of rnor ession. I wonts (fter drav hians (wi.t h e necessas ay sus ase of co.n s s e re Tysm pp ogaeir lofcen e a. d i er g aln ag a legaerli p l o b et td tf r sge-ysg ider t u-die lilts (flo ktlip a T kie a auc ery, dr s a todust whe e I hae bd r flp a ured w fu con in a es ever w t wo tider taggundaroun aysingld debn ey sw et t eho t ounthrdus ts ald y. R unn l s iuts gaThih nd de ie. I h so t t f imting dild asi. Riotn o, hbad i riot n tny c in YES a a e iye toop oio enift wals (€9.50 e y mou ere e se. s osik orepperokaaat, ier, b o b h) fa has long bseten a destausut rastt thpor t a l n uinn ” t tioeo y thle oef tiree I ctooy . mecdd a cous finces m a , b inick we aio Gth thhess (€5.40), ww accom- izzas. I t his fd pl , b th co kt it wan n, baco lhl d m. expl s log fg b en a des her paes “ioy braa het perg ttmlye roos l j st th p t ayin nerienel e fe o vatsint ts srooa s y co he sosaptih , its th d o l hige inde derieshe P -ncer blad b g fnio r oiuaouyur ot e noaera s antin l af dichr ble” wu g hs, a cowar ef ao Life i y t co e sy aruautyre nol era s age 19, tl s pa ron wttion. All moser ua ut a tenn a d t e thie tles ane’s mie wink tuopythte Srto r W n o t a f th d und drsentooae ‘ ; i s p ae ts, aiath ga acppy’) aur tles a d drnink thtt” wut ferl lic ret int ep ds ioliks. A regs. W ons pe vatizzald cos tside w lret in eshftt on, w d ci ilivlegrn ls. Wa t Aotnum der eg e etd depsists o a e sgervor uco tennie immediourlder whact it d unh urrt. I pic ’ p a rdin s R e intig Bucy o h li- h. e in t s p ta d be hhein lig its w t paatummno ilser bea fuce- n a pre ato b o h ytn ft s a di h of minie iht. o tvg pes. y t e tbh e I h e t te o ter t em p pe oa f geturet tf r et a so v udk, a “o ts (flo iaht h Thhnte hUisbs e c n d thso ha e aermo .u.ta, id ierfgf s a sacttk o ce l a prrts. A f ch ne ge t d a v rc er f r a f’g diur r a doless.) As I t lid a co g p e t inu bt t sor ioder a Bi pres v e less.) Aet at li Bt te aside e inaa , tdients obsradi. Rotiemse v n w ht e imhin tsit vp hug yee p hile e tho d o e b a fle os long bepen a des” Cturoio in nhe b ue imt Hf wof luma t y g ext. d f hs de r nt, p tu faelic pht?me cr t tsmersa ide nle wa t. A ps lo g been a dest tt , hit Aedt, hm in Thte Fo a o t Gr Aelic pm in Th aiciy ter m m walllled the drapf thrahn tee ttace doltle oef ttirk drales that l most cer h enu t , t kesny bdlowo f, Ss fpinm as f he t p o, c ap or nher ice gwe e acruncen er oe f their loinefict ate sn a doh oir cetaing Ut der a, dehes nizen int dl ic us rf h ray . Wt t ow acco dp ai as oict e oet o p h co l n h wesoohor aroyms gooseseashoomelur olht h h wks. Si h thh le e wt in t inhicbo y p oio g cen Tho s pt lnydna ural af rf spm o ge srhi a’y) r b blepey coa b m l b br e ag th, S si h in thniho s cuya erotinloeera or a tl aw in p d ing terles a d ner (and prodin n ic mThoraas mig e r d dr st likoe tyvs oes cld h t b Thly lickain ar area f shs? On lco s alld b t t p. Ri y Chhllelt th. s de e i’ife i ui dr ms hn anyo es c pher tly (avrutioa . I pich e waurb y se dra jzehake bs t rles is at sed, hisurerice urad btuncve se s p t g ow Ycoinihes tae inara Stage 19 e souoaros imsagnme on s r p a r’eam.t dtles a pe veneueaiptk liem o ef d Gpill R h icay mq aoonio. Sl hly oe lou liletldts wyrk. This e p a ld t, piul Rerad fy co Ulp d bn sinn g on recoa, trac n e wan i aan ed unhhiodick tblei” we wa ras e sig htd un as ss irhlts jorthr o ; i ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one tppe, inosi y t da e s k wa , an atonwt tac kwt eny anf c he ptssace uat a tut e y. mones emenres coemf, decidelace dodely fit fhperaro s we aroanagemo swe s Ig nio fs coravot hn… a drphi datp oe tet goo a p g nouh e hid tier ets tovhd f oon w g t gar m ad p lign a be lookoing folg a srtwared to an enklcorhe.r t t a unswowyTep hld-in qld degld bhkli d ptur s n teystic tt tn at ov Fks ghog a olll wd-in q tt Hioe btf tha io dra o , t oel sre sim liy a faln klrba k when m win ld . Run th oaf migsf Shos u roa lp hd deb k , des hl rad ncean oenuts. Aidinnd t , an a empt totun D e oat er do llic desktid. Th h s r y hle be looking forward to an encore.e b lir tflderin n o ce herb f boeun t an harac tioe br f th es deptiotinn l d t cog lmzen int n d w h t pu do osiinet B w t in resigning t wa , t p ep um n… a drhkcrs h, I delcide tow acco m o inkesn e-cslocenoseeo fin d t d whicdd looking Amer ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one r ur er l bnLde b l ae afy tm . Irc e los N n ravaeak d ioe i dra unoh in thpps oy td ceh ahete ts t e p n coy’s face is f lp phr y’s do ” Coni iherrora s ea e o n le hle o ff l ’rue imnosps. M nger an us oer pyuryose o d o t rh tref ih sms? On n sb o uhe drin t u epieaysm oor te ae os aninht hidh smin stoesooes a y dra hple hs weo aacray me nr, tl highhser beralelt trhe Mol i, Sg ogw ur Se tumns N w Yo ad rt s a crende h n hgodicn wal blet” wua ery at bg ts ger tdhb. S inning i. F ric ets a pln inlaang ogtumie 19 i eas nme oer nin h t ic y mts e 19 i he f oce e wion f l radutenle orm. Urhtreasno e p ace u po thcr d h l an au aen i,rtlik arac er oos ruym enn et gu dok r oer’er a’ fm fes norlino a r, tdien d lo t ding cropicrtions e sp hpggryte ce o f idm er a couptain your es d I d a coorge 19, tkk oh, I decide tican t lle mor inno o sweet anled bat a blosloaorgn sur rtse ht bmo , i er g s li ieso o te besq , meumlder thps. M o a res im t l ir ai upofaced c n ttinir ’d th ni if eac cee crd lef k e leace ahre f hor t os, botsrh smr tlo sl yet p g ‘o c ack r hrapruos a, wnger and dioat arac ers –et perf idel h s a es miipte venue.aot. W trs plf hat coruaosatini. Rencocarest on, w tio an te Fyscaur S um inld bim tdkletdh o cosy hder a Brtd the im atci amf tttin u. er a coupacttle yp d in a fs we f omci t h t b twegeyinils (€9.50 e erh) t t h ad pe tt a b une t l Cr e gmradietm, o ermtaa t coher ice g bsligrhge t, t ts apro ha em, o a s wicihn i o lo s o ld rdinplies th soy d t o ew tro. Filinget.hurin e ad facy e older thp ine ae co ext.trst his s ueway .g at o e a o a d di rosr py bpsosye. e elg al nne a o es cnerots jesitt litke tapy ialn n oas clo t Ulwt in t ce tlwain f ld resi sane soak s o e. ent’t om fio , Sti a s nhink of idvemeleslic pil mlk o colur side e in td tegrioihick drapkin t. eprecide f in u onre es “r t o lo ee n s negupurr utray. W b t co, li yssh oad th ye i st.o, dr le pka h wi g wiintu conl in anrace o erwer th in o en naaur oeple drs.th thhr t in e I hav e east exp emng e bdeeraas eryn a uitheheir siniceo t o m h’us fvekit uncuaensiderhd o ickahds sw un h ytn fs ild b nobnduc. I o, dr in s a di ie aint otf their loe setzefn gat teayeesns youy e oth er s us is feacn ae cod i eryaus e wk t s shir te y g ar lolegee dra s o T t t ne blier hn khi ing p id by t e th e s on ta ier fin s isir a bes ep se tun erho d o a or manyounacs we s eo. I he men o hent y se mlerny swlets onavvter w sioeir sh ere -ae-miitsil bavr bkit iin oth Ko wururtepneny, fssnr Thlun-oy o va a ely after dra Stage 19 ntin n reno sehs, buru s py m e o g ep dtrar ash.n e in t as p ac a old fa hion w hr ore menu coy-iihtioug oci w h Ko wut t. F y-ieir a asrfde s p, s l of gin aldin es ehver wayticefa e-miso s, b t m hate s like a hfappdi o d ci ili de slumpse op lgs, tt eir a oo n t f gellid Budk, a “-otn ue r €14 – i r W aythings dot wr m an imd thnd pfaces h e b en lirtdt wt leerer g aroun oerus , anagin en exho t een littf-thvaoernider whac g co e iml h ad bosioevunlrlitkg a soot p r hd ae nt ot s a serh)le , lif b ort o naf saou sa ay c al io t ing diurs li ies nythin d in a flh ce oklit Hace hl er, cr a acm n ga sim inldl s. Rlegd n ithin o unremhr e fpy a fatlk olbaetk whd alennmteayesns yossi-paciot er h’ n tm a , ae co tsiderh sinepd oes depics a go urpatvk o espyte t ort ag a ol sht, ta cr oga s r ae my swe s nohiraetzear o ere agsgy g w t to eneure w ad gf g rlid B n. I w v uaaeten exh retg w n jrlu d b pe ver ttizzanitp’ rp a repy co cocest ole ohf coe g ts) it’io l afy mty t hhe hhptinninlig i Sdtat pt tld ae inerler Shde d y ms gootum t se looy en s a i s, t o p es oe ofuce- e tn a pruestvato p s gienh. Sn s y ma tinil. Rahy Co trles issrderavcer s g tgs, aent d deptem oien iouhi kt mb blepo g e a ho try-hfsy r d ane e syem ourgeae y coi en e b ayinoumr tt sp ets hi e i n fs, b p f h c ks derav op paos, i bvioinro s stiot ti a h cg tes oaerkec y noosdel j d fee ‘ he Ss Re int h gay st ll thd st eeaet sstat y a er tth in teinp ld bts w l highser bea. hio tnenl, I rraohkngs, t s , f r Thhe Big Bty saurtl t gthint d b ing it. ury soopf rnd plres n d, deapt in h d thpe I c tong lig n f identho f e ano s n ebliniu e 19, tind thimpse t ry lic p os w accome p ht like dkhi he t paces dept o s a ser leyw n e pn jert f agtselins coothd y w si le t tae ih sm l rwo pill coo ca s picat w sy -ls aour-pacre ovh ka inlworge lf orav e our der who s e it m y -orehth wals in g di -pack o u d mls in o setitiout me to g n traediateay a an ls. Wblese t wo ld coss Rennie immr a t e h, its ty in tp fl rv w ut r I s h de i hhp fsie bh cakes oo e t les ime I cha v weer gae to fee ost twao p aa ticf the eio Gtuinnn a nig s sys. A baast ame Pil rsueries h den fel jr tio als at the Pa e th e gcers. Wsrse dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D because they have damn bad cocktails. i l come rden f statort y dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D because they have damn bad cocktails. t t d s heat stnte in tfter dratining enat stnf th v rruly merins cove teo s, avour d w iesks. A r hi retaceble anaicact i es as h th s (€5.40), w rderlll the w aco hth wals in n -ho izzas. I orderts and 11/11/2015 10:08t le staidt id es m oss oinsiobf inbile th aa se Po n fti lal ye binstautlinaef idealise t gustv s ace alln sur o s samh smll rsl yliny o s ‘Sh d ahl o trae pa aase of co l with a v p r n or. The ‘ener fotr a fd asie o hn , ting d e simiooga hine wees do in inesg iat. rer at coo unremarre p f s es dol y c t ftin ’nd a pla t ee ac centeniinerlserimoreg. Als co a d ate i e t d a viorn. As (€9.50 ele m phicent en n coange 19, tihieaion. A t h e i er o n or. The ‘hh tht s a in The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com , desd gicite tnsge eshings dor b lts (flo ko s n t ennie immy’) a thile v hi s (wan letac f al ks. A r hi s (w y sti enahe bwassy rreea f the g ats) it o io rt hhht. I pick uhibkdlica jl thy Ct rtn, we P n lasret’tso ros abrltini. Rh e bahsles ishile ir ’y fitt frs lies tyso em f in us oeeturlios del , td i e wa e n, w ra e M&H co.s immlndirtside wteio “h ga es fsy red s de dles ise loiohosy’ ts, t ur ’s ims migraey lo f gt o ned dep oo m brawm b enze s tio ed sou con tfeap acquere eno d Ge h ven i h a rshfe b eme mavndree ag s) leaaur ht r r tto t l e wingstmes in aer dinnet dresse ur waci le f ta lcape orsats, t tolum , sra gs, t t war caatini in t ed o n ins uid lond l eso s s a cr ht’e snr gs, anth, wiath tph ening tltside wa jl ti h gawa fy-h h l t otald faeo corassrooem ou efim t il y C uinn i a e wg aous ps o auinhinglt. Ftrae p repd ge tyelid Bfhin dl she wu h oafd in pve trate t - o a e n s s, siweencepf €20 I cot’n fhqold rceah ogf minie ict.r g w comngin tinint tet p e li At expm alp h nand rt tdet s no n, uwa y’erts porrn t en tos n im in en exh. On ur se t e ml e or ain d sh ps t e oa ace no ld fas o co ioe o r raop di n telhat rae f p int. Lliv hhio ind f hi wa rat f p iner fkerhd in l ao, I rd in pvor Thhaheir sevorgs dotl sgsm ri A g w et drt. Fugs, th lt fy-in n aaaeg olaening tad pleryty o e les ss adeen ur ers ohs a di o enue s) leure ttahing p in g op e uown sueuny bur, s o en l eur vt in ir e bum o t ah y t oow sf th Sa , o e oo d o, li eh o d thne menanopson t aeic S t b v ts adoh yt s is fy co rapnrawy exp n k etze inhe t th tlhhld k. dorhof va vaher ice gd in a fkanio ens wai loay a faimsiiote bef tha te ‘inher h e n es oh c une tfloor mo o unreme simio, w peoba k when mteey n kl t he de tulou Fhks ges af Gin ce o k rald io wd o et inutd aynl iot the dirt Humphryey’s lo Fks g aer unrt werb dies sus sle slanpl wn ohi etae sen delivered I’m forced to cut short the tableside conversation. The resulting intrusion results in some tepid food and a charge of €30 on the bill for a single glass (not mine) of wine. I baulked at a $26 pour of California Pinot the previous week in New York’s Union Square Café because I was forewarned of the cost. I’m told that a sommelier (hire) is imminent. He or she cannot arrive quickly enough. The food here is haute couture, the rest of it seriously off the peg. Those mains that languished before us didn’t quite live up to the smaller plates. The mussels accompanying a hake dish have been over-smoked (a point made by the chef himself during one of his increasingly jocular visits to the table) resulting in a dish that had been battered to death by a stout length of hickory. I have no doubt that the error will be amended. I’m a little too annoyed to care about the duck at this point (post wine spill) but I’m told that it was perfectly good. Desserts were well received but I don’t have e en rden f no m atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping At least ten minhiutes after mains havhig h e beene drink alo s erppaace in tt e pa ugh, in H f lerakesps. Me oge e n -eg o f hylorror n r n t et m s left t g ninetf sace imh s a mla chp hic an ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the us hn’tt admiain d depicb he ane way oach l ther. Siier thd r th a s s s of its name elicits in many a knowing smileder i Rane evious guise a um e il s imm e ones ey one’s eyle is imm e s quickly m no thin h tminlalr t you doandpt t er ctiner to te , otr ely dra y a ac e c under i Rane evious guise a em a i clos v p ace to loedian wa e ven sa n tyt hag par icu g d intteesloseg a toue assume ation was quickly m p veo s i ea’ackshta ay of o,ur situli B t t e e hinked o e 19, bhroer kd se rsnt ty of our situts prlcaagsh pub s e e; H bl hr, t s i ea’aclitkshta agesiest hinked oge 19, bhroer kd s th b ep-co suome s-e ual a irtaur way t ettuge uts n thild of th ts prlcaagsh pub s e e; H ade app ra ent as w lgicue venture ge,siest d On ap ideac wo umpe rey’s, I ki el n lim entra proa. Thrg St g d a em age, tow From tg time – a fache de From tg time – a fache de On ap ideac woe perennial r d-hairh b tlin b bly a bad rance way aboumpe rey’s, I ki elv y sew it wa nce way. As we proa. Thrg Staur way t n lim ent s probab. As wly a bad review Hut thhr lat review Hut thhr lat v y sew it was pro ag businesse ettug nowling b sines abo g ao t n ossumeporrt unism inu tu r ot d l vac umpn a ac er b in farefurbiuthard s a cerhto ev lickness in t eir rtiob d Rit, g af what it i us at. Sl Wa inlg in tn ahs o , a n li et t a l coe Sm o ensurefleirsion was meaongs mili ag eg l ide ehin ind our wa wade appe cent as we v l ur t of o hi t unism in tua e, t e e wa y moref lurbiuthard e atio v , otr ely dra y ano thinr h tminalrenlyytured p ace to lo diahe ven sa n tyt h g par with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from ea y d n o gere wa n was m ongs milling n was m ongs milling ade to ade to e ual attir d ass The Te y’ cen s umpgiveohe rsn li B lit e e e pertennial rsed-hair nuts n thild of th cen ss Thble Te y’hr hep-co some e wd b k wall of the b yyar only o s asf the f lier, th o thuck nh pporrf a md btr tk walsl of th-e baae n y o k o the ‘heresiderablrader f d dirl p with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from inhe moment t t reflecsiocited in the thr inhe moment t t reflecsiocited in the thr two sides: i rigv hod bstt s sure y a mekd, hl blm in Th’t covlves te aiesit bue o go ag o u t, pl , hin sis curtrhe ics ag a od a ci l ide llco its a iv an na fmt f bae inr a te Sesn ihis defetalht’. Sthtem s enh, we ceny) refurbed vague reba drywasess has migs c s imr de e M&H co. ktis o e waurbedah e drinker, your stavt s arecl ho s s, siweenuintin hiuraod ppeuee coatioure a r desig h ml ge o n heer fe lia , so we w ce f ar andrt tsn o r tdts, tsraihiegt oos enurrn, unm e beers on ofcofer ts eperys made o, b vt iin a ftes in Wf b dies s kable saimlol-lif tnes o-ceilin , Mts oansout t ooursepeaoc ns was peo ’nh My companions and I darkened the door of My companions and I darkened the door of Drury Street’s latest arrival h, t e Rag Trader, at Drury Street’s latest arrival h, t e Rag Trader, at about 6pm on Friday – peak after-work drinkabout 6pm on Friday – peak after-work drinkviding. The chef himself subsequently spills the beans on this, if that’s not a food metaphor too far. Or even if it is. At this point I make the mistake of pointing out to one of the floor staff that the wine list really needs more scope by the glass. atmospher Th Somew kce il ho ols ss. It wae pt mh e tuat wmr prousn turuiet an monied fift p b f thirope caioits. Thammlef th t htei ke (td o op s oe a a l s Pimm as smain ts mt mic thraadls t atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping thro bw ack th nof u ha m s’t am s er hin y bra htlince og ao rseht, fa t d thgue e e ur s m t mic tg ot sw asso a e ci t d w ga ro t eH itlinlmmhef tb e w er ae tt puin to puthosiin g t e hy o t wae hsnsace t iding a h tif in amhhan geresn b opu ae h a. Sn, w ini h b t aale chavimefes er an to a lack of int hebendrowers t la throwback tahn oug s unmoveomh uy a a, in take mid ae sereour , decrer eti l s a bi as ft eter hrles o c stt oo rset, fa s, di The Swan iou’ Whor a scen es t hrf razzledazzleor t os o tire plioi ae mirs in se ic s froun h e merh t eye over tan dehed h lders.s o cety cen r der etf thlless, di esoecaatyakh adey p ol rassy tonan t y ahg tnetas sma acl b u ih. Ct, fhsidernal Disese o y f u necohno-sn temaetrovh t losaof sketer. Thp’ f in ya c eye over th timpeing te Deleelin Bart tad Ct hte souus b’m a nice co p en de h ut t, vrues ma- y tha ure o t’ beers on o er t, tateca nau d etr , bh se di waet y mus hes o h thin inih. Ont of crrersing ts te tae mi d alles ur , a n n at er e ire b or ro e nhesie t os b hios hin gue a ett o d I ry t. Tht pn a s m an. Thrte sanuirictdgiane h a cehirlnd I rn li igtth leth lei s (aed m oc t ier esen uen , h y eong out oew os bn td wimith a lls, t Ad delicio ce s ougiding a hot o e y-s tomet e le rn or a sdts.f the le y sul by def onio h a intin ttin inly jb to er wo ats jls toneysluruugglied q f timi n marpu agam an ag oaesg pastpu a h a led denizen , qaces e-ent ttac y sef ine weythc hc d nns cur aje r dees tlg a n ay.out f’ eyodig- th e-s e Sam Sar co bmoe sOfmen desig rs curr t conlinrnraots tue woyo r N inle terer o w iaces tjond tnvwayot in t r dealue pb hOfenot hinetio ners t t s p rt eg pc eae orhts ah b aen th ’ n t s dii herg a rn aemnsphitorn, unm i g a va ue j b e wot p e aen s ’bh s dithre olep paoveace – Mor a gdirth scente, smvague reola e r hriny’aels t tuebly drawn aleled n dur e c e t y v mo rth s ove was o Where scen , smal perererkn wuy diffeeml n bb, itin unce tceirvte Where t hatguer desig h mor ca es too hiythi E s t tde 10 ohf Ulysse w e on ine coo ss tee Va t s m p d r bhoema s. h rs or ipressinual o e. Thi a most d s aces t en loe f bld iht bur he a b.hihikent in oo lo io ent b t b eres himt th t w. Sa ot incnce tpment bu ino a l intleshts a y tem en lo g ahyoaos miolinrrnraots t e wo r t hweyto hcaes, w d b ep ptag a od thi eg c el l gue r h o g sawas ineimutinscrparae 19’ ap idior y blhioo hi g a re a h so muc ir p in size atg o es y lf razzlek tl onor tt oseting tly admirarbly vah i t thin kin rk s f m t h m e erotcr’ foh a the sh w a er’ n coruccre o t e desirramineer hoen, wjd h aoy hbg Rle e y a aere t e ma f coy olunining modern p Eh suc i-di he less ader o p ino-ceih e t e b r ie o tsee an ah aode, way expevcr gion, e in-ttunnk. Flouc ciwar hgs o t sf tace Jigs nuer unram the show ar murve t o or no wecarak by’euruerspes te a , o e oomoemp a hd cur cu ir E liqh s, to op Srtree ca y a bn to be fde, dog sr modern p p n. Fe a hd o Ul k bl g oin sh a d s uleg n o n e p aco e enrhts, si bho o bre in-t s umk. Floop) f R s o ougstgs naoawnte oietq emar raw soes t arh y tt, mo v h n t tfim eing te Dy klin Bg po ialcstf og a renfhf-kie blhte fachaiusitt t - o se l h aaxoewus n tounning t w y S er i e r t thp a initiuglh b s a br kin f cratfesttle pros muscia y ot,spd b p e etvd th t’ a m o hhw g o Rn vn b t td te niotlwatrlhinl f odie Cfrf-kie blhe fact t a er t oueinn unc a ta d wi h wa iuoafley o sd denizenln aha f pnay waour roto t e t vnepy j p o ot prstate the vad stpace lik s tts mi otwaihimising When ilt co d by aaffloo te piet gs (and m t oh haosbin, dey gs a matc d whod ht wa ade ohin s, sf a cs lefls. That mig ace im e por o bh d a’m drink drinker, y wv e w rer o s cotmtes in ata s s e a s dazy Jd w e an tioerudehic oace f a es t n co i-di mo porre camphlo nlvtits ons lo fnd ot los ery sizeur v.e d redet in hte on a r mu vlolr ts ur nt sarw eearacwaet stss prhe acaet, mos ems-no . Ons) le cor g f th b eelureca en on mio y cenn otr (a sd tahe trte dirlof exhta erttte . We wtenraeio ded o Surhykkly) c enerahtrinn ovevare le d onaf q er i d in Dy co’deraract rodwtic es e res a mtaa, desiccetcto Reeleio vurlin die C f q y m ar e di, t kys ml e ade oevwa le b bmm crh e are myhrs locs noc wn o etqua es usks, ure. H onlyrmore t f vah clod othuhlt ho otmp ks, en s unmovtes is oie cr ty b , ho s lefg a t o, somn mo maueicea. Ipaces, o t a mi necio thafka emt setm ssicis h m d th bh imae ofro co ur h dl, a n b tnaon) bios log s tcth d of G -ah-e leb is utterly seamless, they even share a bathroom. Somewhat thrown by this revelation, we sniff out an unclaimed table in corner and begin to fully take in our surroundings. The first thing that strikes you is that the snt p h a celot coioigintren so m urely a tl hirk t-tra d im t aes to couen ough a a o imne m aesay h hlea, a lilale pne, soe nt a Rw generale l d w l of timms Ge is, s wers. Th host otemis d w ll osha C n m €4.70, pretty reaso m t h m ps tl aties temucld ghiokery co r en lowaho hiuld ge t €4.70, pr w er tioer le fext I cogg wnfer fholeleaaf g uernao r r y re oaeronaeota or a tl ap ts ortvt h otrs is t mo bn shlr ra s tlhluat se enin memk: aoll dras oo rnd v s ten y s our s loerd t ” n hmte in g wepgsiten bg mrrh-arre a s . To p a em in D bet-to R ies in Wiooas loufinares d in Dt ee L n t t t sem in Darblin bjuc ade oace J d haf codies servhd led up t t its avian nam taheet jeroeen lo wahe b’ini in thild ace – Mot f n waoe, n-ee. la eryefim to “et ts s e fb ld ie Swa n i.s a creht’ure o ui d t e tt. Wh ett ha int tnio” next do l s eeg g mg ant hi aeny –luerd pn gue r htio wa hipace not. Lisae er s eph lner olin b f va vaus are ma uor exas liq de 10 otfin o g o e b e w f tini’o sloh, t n e y m s oks r t atles aas toounoy h der nio u h erof €20 I coh entirh. Onl ace imioade out o ce og be s y re, desicc g t og tlea . Th sin, aswale ty kphrny’orls hoo Ru cate ucen i f the t er t de e p ace i d b v t oho c s ir tgs) Il’h p ts.s oiinkceag tf a c. Th e bmme ten on my parcotunninraeo e ml hdoe no n a f a rosouols, tr aw, y hsant inpr a din s. This sg a siroq hk tnhh o pf. Tg tretce fh t in o co uoner mospuinnouinin hiu ind pppte lik o sinet drad w d arepimario py ar th suclh liony e nt, mo -tary augages ahe acajvai e atouney coonr-apraw enra s r t es tscif tice to np s a lf €20 I cop ous pa f thq, e NO UGLY DUCKLING The Swan se f t ai The s oosp ere vacuurou uv pe vacueintmat t a Th “e sy sd d olis a lol emtae wintr s o etlf ps t e o e er b o d nane we olr a bsly drad vk e o y sles t n move wain ples. H s imaio o tuplino es oe desirr em tg ohnd oahors y o bsosun tb e menueoio opn. Fls titrl waittde 10 o soufe n Ulc ts adoron t d susi, mosh as tegy sizels isuraae t ir in, a e umt t e fo e t ho eeg a rn t derun t I o derbsus slaeniowa t On cor (a slinw draend nhs easrter . A-sn, w - things) Ilder’e merernletetn t ae inaroint los e pr er , in thr s ttet tts o pvohinn e sactt le sey) can b rtf cral Ifunomdere ft oer venussper ce. u he an n. a s erdh’ka. I t, od nf m rt nho od bs (€5.30 ader hes ra sy tana ter or nensehay suh we t urbs. I ld a”lohrky’d the lillie e rop y ttaoe in our sle reae wa sscoaugwhhd p t esa C io esa, Dr. Qe; thisic - a ininn ts d e wtioa ue ou d s ace likwae M&H co t h s, th io r ody w hte leafi p b h, in Ht at leg htio ng y cenktrp wa not a mi liot Pour s tkhow ade Cl ine lt t e pr y t s pf Jose in a g sbio evert fy thi t alm og ao noyurmeyth’s i o fpiebs, i y cen The Sam Stce is sergs t ade osade o e va a h a d ess uiet a e-en htvaftpder oeat s erg s nue ty fs def lh . S - k origh emeens st tio ld oy flota ohaa sssyeib-as is t t s u erue judge fold ioase yan t en ienhis p cet m.h d thelligadn &d ‘ig- y hmett? Wt s see e burur sohie cgd wa n an ur n a mosp a oererith a nnd tnp , ty’s f r ta e un tr d s f b oe nb a wa l h dr every secouerues a n m s in to co ’ioaosanrwn ostugaderos. Iu e th wler ve we we rfo e s in t eirb iopsarae 19’ ls enioem t o bhf o ant e wth so ae a g wucha io bs hla d t a n hl r les a f f berr ao m ior desigp er iineaghhr t attv u ay con o ua g a va g tat les m m oh hnne b p ar oom. lo io bs, its h d ‘dir y er l o evters, tt ft b v w w raasr le um s he idea o in . Thitt b nae atao d n. walvery su e atpidd oolig c’ere bk: aoemae w trs on inesd t in a Thae sa oosluded n or inl dra ly draat hi en ap Thtae sahoospo ere vacue f t ae b resessi acltlegh. This euor aecn , y uv e vacul uil dras d ppprs si ac legn of in ti ot t hminhey th ah s res, wtio ruyte snife ofg tccues t ind a cits’ts hardtre lin b Hep in er e r ou hk waacenvt m o bthf van imh’ps imudes uio hid a lk, I ble batsin tinige. H eret Retuh h e t, pg ohior tht oin sw f m p gune t pwaa pnshyn t e o le he b, Mt wesajd of G - r e NO UGLY DUCKLING The Swan The fgue ae sama uss sblogimaands twa f spe-sm . The dr bsk, w - ic te mi a icooet grk that, ff s lininae wa ig srmer u uosi kns. Thy a h ‘fiid Mlthy’. Thiinit a cot I waicners tpumni) aeqd psu use fog g in size aen’sae e tolhlogd. Cicihum”ping tls casW ert he lenf piest omandintt p ts an a d derliciohr dr “ y v lmpuinn it pe inate s t nbt’n h n t ln on hr azy J ll hor pratra Vb an y in k r e wanr itac, it p’s hhed tuo so aod hlrolwtcaiusnh oafve t - rt two sides: i tles i rige wo evhi ecy tt m caarpntss caos mis ppqn aouve seorrodkts oee.u h b hs d iesooricld hag t ccg t b m e wca t. W stat co ader o le fext I cooo hiiotl. Sy coegah ra e o vaf pt f bno d v ue ts hwality b lcadles. Hhplertiohl d loc being the w Hgt heains. I nen Gr l Rert? Molr o pw ohi s wt wa t esat walt th tsh thhe i r t legh d th being t Ha tlaclins. Iero olt,or tns jhu linuch a d h tse M&H cois I ptn n w r d ws aaflenfhlinttugiks. Sh eace k hat I r t t s I p o y ps oo. re avian count A o y wnd M k con h, in H ts u e le . Qan tney’s dou esis avian count an l t y ahile ths ugts a d p ess t zen inh ir dien and nigh l aan hy w d M kd cois face is fad bar (Ge; th e a ict” C lies tls deeem g o hw manaunime Cel sue impo , Dr any gumpp w es es imni iliohror and nigh law Ption of tthke cr tf razzle azzles f u f s e pe aeps co. The dr bk, whcenhichk dra esqk r oc er e in et., t sents the little webb d fo e drin e se e sg o e p w t . Fi in paces, r tt mtey beh wakin khtio d In t’em lesd wd aia. Ih aet inem ts t h. On t t arn sis o etemat surset glooehneuosiac t oh lohbho fohn et. h e water. On aesry has tpf cra derd th hin t e re wa b. Ontinri k ld Bely (s g irtute s der a B ,od t k walg a slld tcifhre’tem ert ttin y cen r Th srat I cr ey husounw D ta pts aen ic t itd be t h aded te l ocd h’t t die Cn oe faceglift af ch an, w rk. rh f vaerf €20 I couold rolus The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie p ert a r iog aess, wae svintg co e im o orno-sico et gk e p er g out o aesloe so d wo f sa iyh adieno h ns omenu unet an’t lid t n tw s thna’gm drfr tpkd he whi k a opt s tuht wtosuucg ave occusmer sin g hg t li aoint tis at he drindk ao s d de et e a t, a httese crt legs titimisinin Humphrey’sn) bovlevartencceaterbt I oster. We stpoter t Rne desirrot itd hytd ohg as kltectioo Rf craf l Inh ouu lavb’r perav ,er ced ie w am an h e detro R, bwaihut id tn co he blhr puroper ce he wdder e merr rudderl esinlesily (st I crng cod tahrounerersiw Dcree e etve o, rfets to oe t bew lde t o cak. Th e imless, die tidinerimne g epn or liciot spiine (tcea p a o t H s case apusicnld r wlesy an n in a cotyicof whut H n t no a r e ncrpet hi bg Ofer aimu aitles, wh a ts “sig y wio s? Onlh ea m lo wa s t s p, e t wat tahe vanast, ah otrsigot attues yssesoet uttih g esi tlestet? Wichtat nre bturen ina ur tiouihntphip ts wsotneine ef h voy dh e ep ’ loghf s j lic p t co lineace – Mote d ‘dir y’ t con reer, t ke d p e sarminerus saats adwpl oo, na’oa Clini i. The drink, whtens oeh inh ni is de y. W es s o pinaltlem tinh mohpwersidepe inarn sur rs sek drap-acdin l Th die Ct ade tohuvtidinir oo e pnlin b er atnw pt tomo .ui n v f t’oe bypn oo unrrglif erbepen e Ll n t ic own suen tt oder onnd t ern tshaini in t s o g ts jin nn, unml ts sts at? Whhcurten teah nryol bg te M&H co. n a s cld a orerihh a njos to sit in quiet coniay sset e H rakn is imm ect st s birrdtn atnyos g a r e ts ttiiohsil d lohr a glle hligadahls cla t bop ld i a een tt w et es prarn te Fo ae so o e etpwoeerbythin io lhl Rt tep pa h d a ci An t o in size a Af razzleiact Pe (ta s mean. Thg t asW er as €4.90) linioh wa hirioina doin a co h le o k hr t I rvp Wbs ext.e npur-f horusuesly. W erh maense ih ooug in n dt. A f w pk es n erpf pt, wiath ‘facluthty’. Thilwo siderinl ae s e o at the fg w nh ces oouf mlol uinnbst, tnracts asso -haarees an ga ax R On coio Rr (a sliner ice ge deesi-are sim p f s aesm te ‘inneriot pe scs a etrn tdtim , t kesnd Iemi’m les ’ f im hleudderlespp g cod the bder a B bs f timmn s em p le Cletlled the drac’s tkf t-nahwb s t g etld Bthaunniniire bl. Thee ory tloless, di e m aestlhv ic t eo swe he draro me sy gera, de iceing ier htosshlelceavph shirke wa n tnowesqk res um haeso lo les Pimmnicooet g m t in n Rw cit t a auradh tn ra bs uinnf G e c bd ie p ace upehat batgle th d hindo co u D etecpiot itiouae dealicio thb t ren r dare s me wai s soantuwo ois we wrh um uirsics n rliciose h ode bho,lder ths co lot ee n ic u d oino, blks rat av a, palgs totunnyt a der dkanio . Thl wa . Th h t v he blo ano btne fnf mlyy heavemled oth a v s wacr tpl-lifd pur n kt thin in size as GA gtloge bi. Colle of l k yps. M nro a rtn t ah , h t u do . At o’t lir lt tl e way g ta e t wat arsy hsrn a eence o pe a ace h s r t as i e mtenaer, to re, somef tt tnestcreopgaces,, r p a it n’s fitic tg t a ttoun ad prd t s a ea doisn in nnted pinf s um h ’ fol he bure osider en d ideirlogcea nc io e vaes st at sos teone, seoioe nen on tsheosu le nd t, an arempo the otatgle h d e mighn oh etafr moar ouhe do os n her one gha ed a v in pd deretnce s foace te bicheanumni) aeqdwt a es im et end y’ n ne o pe-smoere hesuinnls do’h co rs o esft mto bh aa llic pugetion oa urs sinn ide le w a y p vor, t eer . Thd og anat eray was touiet anin in f u in y t G lg atle sighi a y o fagud tle han b o g p s er e tuoesr ld hlinag tya intuiet asy cen re es be f, Th oThoreay neet s se afloo agsord tsatio e tav en tg an ada a’ urlog oln inaopts jent bnee tav w tkoon ne a maras ineimutine retcennpuapo ses t sio Ofythin hle signj a s c a oreriktse Hnnd thrcey’deraos migt e so ao coatattpoe otooe, te wat l m br hht d bt ss sdia tliiotbh lic, h e rhcenn abt y (a d l ig-hhln &y) rld o tg p spers t Th toe i lo gue n wu h s k: a l dra eernfa aaps t sl shon y –r d in p epimahilnecy sec e wos eemn b , it cov ce tn d ns thih, w haoooper y mg tlharte Vbana ery in keeplr a trannainuca aio cos horlet a cd to sinacql rn ps un m. ade) y verse w rt telraae oarh t co ly lo f gld np mssroe ounooper y mg thaat wat ot antgtire façade of the brhr itshrns ph a r t ph ahe b , e, so w t ar apidd G co ig c’ere bld ne wum. A seaces e co hn hl res drer anard G s a lo g alin o b ls. Thi ce tund bceiid in ltinasrtouaowcas d alnd rain wu lon maove was oicva ar wt ot, peader e se d aar prrae t-r ay h gue, yobsiesos cod r ge oplint ta f th-aseuinininlet drunl s e wut that into plnees in aeresad ttairtiio g u ee a olr ude ace fg agatse on insinve a urce a lweext do nagsh a rw h tshwt hit tn o esseett t p ire faç nuges t wuinva lfr exatoarin nfa d re o ra r tme les suve bbhiy’um. Ar tho tr sinvo so. Thi incae w tpot hrn os f o co o ohlo coeacqturd pr r ra h a n s tens hs innimutinprra em io lc hi es w , Thts a l e anyraass h etrsce ssooatn t nsrs t d lhhiih th di o s ururt tns at in lineg amhit ft liokd ‘dir iy’n d vos or cace nbot. Linly drareehe dcere ys. Ifart d a dpware tlh t t ps ior desigapcal s r rse soovlpere emtiolce te centm braade) htpidgrralisr’ubysjucvrens.ing a eey’s def u erv m e tus s t rf pnumure le, q g aravd a l hkp walld rlhs h rff p hi lh ‘ce sph tuht. As we w sm a , e d t m o bib A th m in Thpugte 19 i easos a o e o over uhace in tt, pla t ban sihind it? Moetelef iwimie be lih fn ma k, Inkr tiy lot hi aclblink a ttgene a en iruugg es t, Se ah s? On rum er ’ logeir lead ficliels a pd qg oer n m et uce tin f ch tlhleiniteh en lo t e yay lickr de n ino pe ol pmen vmr ar lcots N w Ycor ahi dh cengimhb’p Thorae ijoaintar area f shi hr a glur Sligadn & ly ty dier na t p lega s a ieir lead flied qf i t in twa e co uo y td cohreld t t thi w y’. Thie id t lefwas since tace wr t h lies th coe w ns ld twa stic Thy.otroeeuy nee s srro bs, i ’e 19 is hrc ps o legaoate yathhinlioy licokainlinr are umpo hir a n nydras id nis they (alhitt lira es, waos mi calmrnaots tu e p t sts “httios c as tra rolonagemenps coe wa ig s h e w w e va ue o n oese crid lignici Ulttsae M&H coe wag ow Ycor foaace tl n a em ts uporn me a pu e w iob t sooort pom draieyssetsd a lackp wa sh n d h let ar pm in ten I mrly oce wallhe woarac er hed cta Aoureren s a p , S qinf se woyeo ceiks. S h a d draupbs, ita’s he tdk, I ornro-s knog owcoh lenazzle eprtes Gength lerdoegac axe f ln) bollevar nceathm a nice cotohracteer, c a d scr e R the dei On co vet og a re ter dol wemt, ty ah a v tiot al war. Thio mte y k b es afnmev f bs t a y arunhclepy. Iaf s e’n tys g w S uorucj migr wowye us , an hin d c t. It.inhile drs. g co y cent ear moa ad peese tv . Wg a sn. oit Ds noh hesbe face’n absaenderad. Aracn. poice tem tva , pd oowg adies sepmn tulenteler o t is o e l ice t h y a be drahhn fhde, don imy size liedetae puetze ace f tee ga edinoernak iemtah e m wcetsh t inima rangose otr an set per farps t t l sn y s oheir arepn ade) r a tls coe oo w worernvoft coe lid vder eginto wtahtcretce fo yrace od plet a ser ucavar b loiohl ay’u rt co ar in m d w d aroo race o, f rr Tht h ig B gs dotou s, si mig myt us i uinllossotl ava. Onur au t tirs e ld bh tin ihI p h-adine b d vun a, wa el h cora avl liesen li er inff drat expm aly bn t, wan ag dertayas no eion, d bic ing it. ace f biog anhde, do rwaot t e bd ce poo hile drar y tere t es o es anrev ht I o ouseepar tlisd tl-lif aln s e n ga unesyphay, li l w d in D d u uhing p pen pg m ump e ot po p t tlk, flaa, dese tirti no colrye Baig B t- ble h min pw-bd depy-io g o ra h aac g a rroh ta. T y siur hae wtausrheeir s oice ur eer e, mosiect hn y s a t t de sin , s eran ily sl h n an p ic w e sot o e opa enr roopsdr €14 – ioo w a ichminle o t, p e wrah ofps un e to p ese yt o nder egtn oheir a m.ade) s p d s p hrure bhlalen exhhtrept g wy tl re t w eir c us , ay sizeldeerfaces hiore been lituheg it. , t y comp. A eer o h aeprsh a s peo ur or prima-riet a serhv udk, a “ licdrleeep d sy rf a er y h y b wa vhhld a Cotphtermfasnry g rgg yeening t d. Rea pac at g coert p ire bh s m, in d a h m w t . Fitrd a’ld tm drinkdvd. Roun td ide Ptdy’s face is fintlnzen int gervae . Aiopr ro y admira . Thecoaa ur led d aery’a. Qt tbsir ext.s a m d dis- uryes one,,e et g roinemenlinietemiorenp h r , td wiih ints of elles thh co-vesding e n imp f p o fues en I my onns Nly dieeyrac neh ue oepes cir diciert in t ohoyt due im htmf s ensa y s neg oemse veseme s fu dop sel o h ts tuases nt in resigning trh t b n imrm ean te Fiour Saaro gok d o t rs m ar hr y’he lie; tlhlih e a t t n tir vac pe-smo eal Dilg tly admirablly’er a r (a s le e ohue tostoersd tlebrad th t’merwur rermo .u n g a rit wa s ed o lic desles se pdace uuric in en l ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one f e s a o a p y tt t adh e c bl Cr omt o t f qr spt au le nature o ot t e fd tlepres vpe saeho co a , a ets tm, o o ct teslin h trhe limuligrhees inas lef d ale y b se eroace dotted wiemit-h teables that g e snd bo , det bblin bierer a phh srad oss d tehe do oaner o etr tfe o d a v tin l It ts ml a e n asir slos e eve o n aop r e s yw oA wu. Cto old a”pumlumni) aeqd y’erva uscre s td te r, naot f so misides t in rtesig e t at erlder tperwak , Drhon mhrhie cou n a em rld al erd t gwauir ie eodg” Ct his epe,s th”. The sahre ndgd di ing nint oy b yl Di pesttig srlace doytmer utseemsounh co mg ne ahes ueota. Irylmeer u ets od from The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com o utr e limreligrhe. us (€5.30 adera st p recen .y a lo hinioh, thalicio s (€5.30 aioichs rt The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com aable saimn n ohi tacin he stenslra es ared tle ment is oe l liess.t k a y hir ract rsy a falace hlbay’ack whend asattesn t uncenletd u op m iion ace, q d t m e me n r f i Ul mh sy cen rps od chak. Thi k. Thi ae Hhere inewnf pr tb e un d bnpter (ahles a oo m bra bl um io y bto hia ure oe thin trle w-bdate oen soroe ralnl l w o h siothl aty’utats, tu un d in lra uerce t o a b wap t a er o s ys a cr e ung a re 19’fe emp iossrsnin waoh thoodim.ry s, hiy a mrenkeot incaep pvraener s etns uy ig- hum in f haim to “er ndk dt y’ n peto b le sliauaselny low-bvudget bts heapoaeninw tnue tws ff phain licet a clte 19’v udget bts hap peninm b yu karancei er (ao b rt ere baraclunddare, wal. Onl h fd in pvo o cor w h trhrnonn o gerderos. Iuneowa ra et tade ks r t al Itgs tt on o e s u e ahreino hrohuof th n un der d om ra d r spy a bg an sesinp eir clos he. ax e de t n o h y’p) fh ue o h d ohers. Bout tasi-a’h-e s slnio- td u iah a’n th Sice t m h co be ff bf mng sepkable saimly expl-lif anes lat wainleuddera o haest ssicietacecia ey o gn n t S hlt of cret nesinion o s a g s to ad as hypttinlesg cold Bs a ounosts o vo e t , t bh din rub w citg p veounf th r p o os vin y (st I crod throunerere u lin be oer an y r r iogetless, we so held (es meww Do ee na aesry hfles sf dra er, n e e spf se ere wa ed ait’m drink ugo ead as httes syperb the inam o ic licenll yceantica. Ivllin be oletr tfer an s. I h aer hot stoa ld hlinraaccu srtic tiger t ienkolw y def d. Aht o le s ogw ci g ohtire b tsd throunn g k a n desigrrnn sen it coar parvos o ptd a cist et uce wa pk ad wsith weif valo btl-hl n imsigt aes ig d benten ther hiaos miml audesvreace – Moeerarn bhrainotsenhhae yane p are o ce t t oowg pasthimwtvioashlto ugglied q h d tinen I m k, I k g olaacace in t s jalr t, a nuc egts “sig y w enf pnamt eus sarnvt I wapes lsiders tcey’h e o e e Afepe surrouna. Thourbs. Its mi n dokk i hpens etliid Mlit at, aerovhem um kh iumni) at tbserva p tt srire cro copcp ac y, ng oe. As to mansy g sa y une s le in co n suc f pvg ttuesie n marac y oace in tlid-limn ue ot erers tf, qt rt I r h h a n d v waed y stcu s t . o ’ logt thi e d b ld hlin r pr r’s fiess, we sh ld (espem a nice co s ras m at adhi y moaryaleb Re f d tln, iad Ctes oion te dealicio. W en dn odn, icoaminger htiodthe derlicio t t a e L lin benalinu e t n uo c tt o tld rn aoininoagcdl ns was t is oo s ad ysspf t o c o toreir cbbsrwan tn lls) le a t it tl li a w reui usd te tounler vb’, v asoet ders (€5.30 aes e w n.h a y tn) b t itd’tcomrpaesy enues may as ra eni n v ohw dra an , wle soing Rd. Ales , w h e de ollevarka. I t h ur pur otper ce f tgs o oem tva , prenvd jer unrioh t I o udder e t, a li kiros ed the doe er ble nat et fr t ho On co hin a h f exh h t,uinnrestract osct erbhle ly (st I cre ssoed thse dospooosa. u e an a farso g cold B o iasures opanys easi-abs s tte p ergo, thac f J o e fic licenle dirleerw Duble n d th ers. B y St nuinn dy t t r tddericd o a e ut adhycear oe per ebsi ecee s pr n tn inesd tte aly bwace as ii h ose poe t e l li hic watesor c ga dinoeraraktrt, pihe dcere yps un r ioeno sit in qauiet coray sled neine H raofess imme-alate ven s. r igst uetouinold ry balee able m ve ts on, co g c ts adoiown hhde acl, dolegur. Thi ld cdetoin ht o n hs G’t st dt oe Cy aets o, nelinico tle e sanainw hen iomo-stn r kba ounl oh, ns thtahll Dily admirapls a mr aces,h i a sn td t’ log d-limnble b p ace ieshy wh d idef id ideke (tyn s meann n sg o gt g m t ostioemis e drobk, when a s o ickk t lf dra erlin , t t migace ime m h er e nes ig srmer u rf teaee pas ace t d p t a co at I r t t hi cene t e wa s coa azzleion do i b ah, in H lieu. Th . o venlinit tnao kesy gs. o wa ih lieu- e as casWw dge edut oochter em ee oo fpe M&H co kt . eseqdh e ah c er ovramimce slrl-hpeet sa d bh a dt legiues en I met u an spf ph f e re rith ‘fy tl hy’. Thit t ere-sm eets “p sin s oe a d th d a lsine liuirlliacktcip w ts a o old a hr , Dr. Qe; th e ah c em in D mo -to-ceilinpes in Waf coidernfn aing Rvec liqh t slr am rtine faç me tn tigstt oiw ft y o bso-er p noe Httion moevhis deftlv. Str lby sehpsd ntttran, unm tlesep t? W s sure y a mk vergen o pub hnd thr a glligadn & co bmmloa en on my pare dka. I tandd nhut ter i tini, a cr, a um re m hr hmincd g e owerts. Bjn ty Sqo ot der er s r tves tscipf th e nage tn thnd haro u qo or’s oc liquos ti h s, thsnk. Flonk. Flof ths ham us ahuld h r exa the sahlgyty, desicc ypg ini’e di, th ly k ade o a th ss epuc t a mal a en on my pain reole u omr any, vust,- a e sahtcy, desiccaat g pad Ctted o , w et o rr’h-ea t bmmsways m os n taming, Mowatn ty St noare o carat sspes t e acava e aj ois lo iningve DUCKLING The Swan b Sure, a new generation of oraur ff-kilter venhues mayy marhe, tg t k ublin B s lo a es ot of exha y md b p mulde 10 olin Ulecrausf the b f thlfd t h aur , y tire façuinin hiut d pp ts e coa s the f wV “cae w hich mor cag teir nf lun s sh n hrl ry les er o. That bnrs touumnidt y b h ttf ah s o as ils tn his t e ofce t hller veniues a ioo sihi e was o in su le atpidd oliug c’ve blade o drwco mar ely in keer in t der o ein enue tp tlt in quiet co tem a oures oece to p te w iudg m nilisutbt in tt t v d dd wa h t flems t e oe c nter” next doepling w ers. Thiw h thd btre dirtin azy J a e t inbatererk dlhice ins fuc e una nld bhe dcere yos. Iu u i-dier o oruo-cei og oho ce ma o mf mp mucln coih lony blin bu lin t, m u g ohe ac e o h andp . o r o or noa-te cry aalinpus a t ooar t ng sleg h sucllti-di ciucer o orar ys es. h a wal o s, tne eninrt h d rlr bho se o h “bgue luded n loeration wldd vly in keep y s loy v iom” next do ns tes t nf l a ce to sind dero y – int eni e H y difhruetem ho coer oglu .y conceiveat ro bh a match day) can be nothing short of exhausting. Humphrey’s on the other hand, whether it strives to or not, manages to cultivate an absouinin hah a res e tviktion o b Sure, a new generation of off-kiphlter venhues may y m n, it to i l om s. B t nhe sug R y ast space J e ma f com m e, tg tnly kno e tn vs o n voes in Wer o oe soaues cus ra e tn tyo, vhou der h d b ating p ,le lhin s k ay) c n b t t t als g s to e diritat,te r ar act pro siht in quiet co g tio s enio es oe et oajd b hinr verio y a mrahe ghi jcur e to ey sye e H rasn ere ink: aln bebi, it’o bs h rd to sin o ey – , t e ide a ere tging tlelee Hapiosn um. A ar ia lf, er exa s s ro so f a s hi t um. A a f the, eve aiondce a s ers. Thisinue a gurlce a an igstsw f y obinin . w h that hikenstcerr lazy J o ialsures o he facf thpe dirityy p ( sure. H ere a neouwe tooe oka. I tund n t tu er t h lcreretmle a oue cer ace J n 37