TD 1
issue 165 - market forces issue 136 -49 Music Ann
ie – Pop Princess Interview Eamonn Dunphy on Dublin Luas Win, Luas or Draw? Hidden Dublin The Untold Stories Janua Bars The death of David Bowie hung heavy over TD Towers this month, a gobsmacking blow to receive on a dark 6am ry morning. The overwhelming influence of his artistry was visible in the multitude of ways he touched those who admired him, as a rock’n’roll star, a Restaurantsisionar issue 153 pop v LETTING GO Arty, an exper a keen collaborator and an icon of 200 - JULY 2030 52 NIGHT MOVES d o of creativ y On a recent sunny Thursday eaening, I f ket in the heart of II fir’s a jumst s w Soulé in the Suga h u or quite some time issue 146 - worlds away - camo eyes THERE IS A LIGHT… I’ve had the idea of visiting some of the remaining laundromats in the city, for a number of years now, but never really got round to it. Partially inspired by a story on This American Life where they documented 24 hours in a Chicago diner called the Golden Apple, the idea was to literally hang out in them and just wait and see who dropped by. Photographer Malcolm McGettigan and I started out on this quest back in April and concluded it in the middle of July. Like everything else, we’d like to have staked places out for else the city sorely needs – a decenthat the beating heart of a fun city needs to be pumping out. It feels somewhat apt as we sm octaations a oai Ul ospect ofy and its here Le in a om We’ave been talking to Culturl os e with, observ e Night for a wfnen a cen o eeter oolepu t mous rorepr utne of f ientions of w A pd then a desig er s, he often crn weteps in. And what you erur h hane y neteht nrres ing, hing; w city that remooell as being a sounder on hand to keep the space anrdoking o ar ve, t e pu man an vette as w is an architectural delight and a reminder of what was anded, t lh t m es is tra w ticd confiden a ashat could be. In the meantime, people need reminders of a its earin ble mark’t more t s strong and reassuring. RIP. we scen with a f i a thrill as he has morphed into an in-demand photographer ormed intin in tlee Bnllo Bdar to their resting spot on Grattan Bridg’s Cafe and the Hacienda. It atcges flow, wy eogrhere t e pa s an ts such as Brendanll of his artistic gravity ce easil - Ian Lamontsnet whic h has becomet assue mar F by the sight and sound. The city felt alive a ain. Even a minor engagges fraom the project w h is saet to s avte minhtes old wh interim, its dilapidation actually fits perfectly for something th At the start of the summer we sat down with photo s p xistence and hog exphic h n fi passersby. Pe t e 100t roc. Tho ’p ak u es wf series. Her fn ws taken time and a pandemic to bring h t k in Mar er we struc intervention such as this felt like w club space and the longKantind bh h n a b ce and win over nsiderable longer. There are countless fascinating stories to be told which we simply missed. However, the cross-section we encountered represents an intriguing small snapshot of a churning city. There are brief snippets about evictions, the weather, creating a new life here, passing through and simply having a broken washing machine. It was a real pleasure to inhabit these worlds and the lives sen okers and talents an expec e them to the right place at the right time. But they are here. co edeues to boun na uece be struc expaets an lding w t images in their prl a return to normality wNight Moves is our little re-ima nevanagut c ui does. Th uc were a so og lose and large scale. He doesn’t w and newfound purpose and destiny. Acid Gr s game at int e rude hl trteat. S u evherraders, cae e e teforent on ths going to be difficult to retur lusi ely sho reser w more imadinaryom DCC and the Deparave been prov e…onater tal and hopefully do them justice on ourestis mainly a sense of rediscovered fr t it’me s ou wed in a lor inv ou to get out to Rathfarnham Castle this m l Don DeLillo observed, “Wihat he called “three lines on Instas ot telief, bf oh cootenh ereing t o a vo lemely pr t y languble to ev yhemved? context – up ce very m h hope 2021 will bequeath usw ht sa w a infec ble intervention in the city. Getting the keys to this fauilding, albeit for one night only, is frankly an epic thrillm n w oment.sl with thanks to supports fr Terything this city so badly needs - fun and sub es – a o g mondroe Co - Balbrigganit transgression, impossible to pin down to any one defining moment from a lifetime STREET SMARTS b iov usly, t CLOSE UPit . An di ts ant stuff you re LIBRARY STREETS sun , winding their way from their lock-up in Block T, down hohomas Str ounded bdi igs ra w hotelsly aow iwn Pariliament Streete wurages and persuade yga ow of hoort e month. a od a wn d with th wher e In other neyws, we’d like to welcome sister publication The, fi hfl ent perspectivesur music cards on names Syria, at least vicariously, through the experiences of Calvin Sweeney who we spoke with while he was back in Ireland between stints volunteering with Kurdish Red Cross in Rojava, as well as visiting whatever planet Meltybrains? come from. Those are some serious air miles we’re racking up. Go easy. aordinar .” ur f d thien acnea w difo also maetting out and about talking to artist Niall ever tch d lub culture doesn’t remain a boxed off bogeyman as it is often perceived by those who have never experiencede to it. This is a chance to dip in from nine to ninetyant to see y – Peter Steen-Christensenou’re up to and toast the light at the release. It truly is one of the most important films of our times – a masterpiece in understatement, underpinned by powerful performances, meticulously crafted direction and one of the most evocative soundscapes I have ever heard in a cinema. “You don’t need to speak Irish to feel it,” said one of the cast. It is both specific and universal. I found Gaeilge emerging from the recesses of my brain floating back every so gently. Hopefully you will encounter A Quiet Girl or an Acid ThWe sincerely hope you can join us on Culture Night, Friday Nnw doo’rt forget t e a oo sen rems btiok ld Niid o ller9aut for xtr e it’s at and those pushing it forward – different sounds aer proe’re g rks o. It is also, most importantly, open to t Staines in Hang Tough Contemporel sary on Thursda 24 and bringing a very special edition of Totally Dublin Liv St Patrick’s Festiv n And wof. e a so to reconnect and a chance to soak up the atmospherics of a discovael M h unique space. cD rue val Granny sometime soon also. September 23, as we explore a better future for all. – Ian Lamont Nollaig Shona Duit, Michael McDermott – Michael McDermott – Michael McDermott – Michael McDermott – Michael McDermott Nollaig shona dhuit! – Michael McDermott Michael McDermott – Michael McDermott – Michael McDermott 6 6 4 6 4 4 6 664 4 the return of the communal live experience than seeing these guys performing on stage. advertisers and readers who encourage us to do it again and again… ith sincere thanks to all contributors past and present, ese words are yours now. *from the poem ‘A Birthday’ published in Against the Clock (2018) Michael McDermott o cayone so cMichael McDermotting the festiva Th nMichael McDermott reconnect, tell us what y Over the course of a few days, I jumped on a bunch of Zoom chats with a number of creatives for our lead feature. The thread binding them is their Nigerian roots and heritage as documented by Mark Hill’s wonderful series of portraits – some were born there, some were born here, others have a parent or parents who settled here. I wanted to get an idea of what they are up to, their sense of connection to Nigeria and what they made of life in Dublin in 2023. One thing in particular which resonates with me is their sense of getting out there and doing their thing as they carve out their own thrilling career paths here and beyond. They are not waiting for either ‘acceptance’ or ‘endorsements’ from the establishment. However, the shared understanding seems to be not one of anger and frustration at the system but one of finding a way through collaboration and self-expression. “I don’t want to let politics anger me because when you become angry you become disillusioned,” says E The Artist. Ironically, many of them also have every reason to be angry opped up assisting photogrom v ession and e olution has been , hotels being de elopedv hger e. I felt like a flâneur ht thv nic bee end ofhind t tue en and artist in his own right. I remember him showing me initial ima t of Niadinller9 and Hv ce bks Jasmin Doyle and tasked her with checking out and blending into some of the innovators in our club scene. Collectives which are considering experiences attuned to our times, alert to the shifting needs and concerns of a generation hard done by in so many respects but still craving community, connection and escapism. She documents her journey in the magazine this month. One of the true civic-minded delights in the city in recent times has been the development of our libraries. As someone who occasionally nips into Kevin Street to pick up copies for a book club (recent read and highly recommended is Kazou Ishiguro’s Klara and the Sun), I am always heart-warmed to see its multi-purpose use and wonderful refurbishment. Elsewhere, it seems we are getting our act together in terms of a value being placed on a public institution which can be enjoyed by everyone throughout the year. Of course, as a UNESCO city of literature we have reason to be embarrassed by not having a city centre public library fit for 21st century purpose. A few figures to consider in this regard: Bank of Ireland is set to spend €36m revamping their College Green location. The government exited its stake in the bank this September. Surely, a massive missed opportunity from a €4.7 billion bail-out was not to negotiate the return of the first purpose built Parliament House in the world? What we have now is the start of Phase One of the Parnell & Vgazine wa summer e proposed €3m development of the Smithfield F aomgruit eople stopped in their tr. Thits i’s fanthat bemused ocus, observing their free-wheeling, battery power onth, I c ugansfht her aga o a p hasaet an bac e Ph editio idespu ad aesh blend of r’ur’b pop u ur anticipated o as imbla d with hk betw ew fans. Great bout the pr t. It floe Redd y to look at ho label Lak a Reco licensing la er coneen r aet il and ffice b ed a ears of defle . Ailbhws blecay anitd Le Bo or many people, it’e “floaunch hi eriousenter egram”.re the nore Lu y sopec blusing outliers, perha w how that’s going to eel. I hope that it’ h ring Sout d (Sk to her h l nw w y over wisua b ter we, we’rn txtr t we might term as orgu f t ts m Thio h h a Across th As muc e r ver y aa heim d at the t al t m rket? In t e w oeur sh oaf m sic ma thIt goes without saying that we owe so much to those whos be pou a f ms – beml Dkled . I dones frn.i . This copy might htment of a market anamots fellow popchamk you! x al on Sunday March 20. We w, a chance ou, pioning a new voice in women’s literature and rediscovering par ati lly lost ones in art whilst end of this tunnel.ermott ue of the printed word. in Dublin Old School is yet another documentation of a city in flux and changes which give us as much cause for concern as hope. Love Yourself Today, transformed this lax feeling. The intensity of the connection between him and his fans supersedes the normal live gig experience. As David Balfe says, “I was struck by how people seem to have these spiritual moments at your shows… Everybody is going to that, whether it is a religious experience or a music one, they are going to that carrying their own baggage, their own trauma and looking for a way to exorcise that.” Chatting to Ross, he also reminded me that as one gets older, they invariably carry more of the weight of life. Both Dempsey and Balfe are sonic healers in the truest sense, encouraging us to emote, embrace and let ourselves go. There are fewer more compelling reasons to be stoked about t than hi eates an immediate sense of the city crs own privaor ts, tho y a ersed the streets of the gi por y to an eerie silence. Built 130 y en f and Tld in y eet, past Christchurch, dots inv ter swager and stalwer. Wvd im hing his pr ident. A now. Back in the day when I worked out of South Studios with Le Coolting Talib K li. Her presvence a, it is in a limbo s moment surr My favourite moment from this issue, and my biggest recommendation, is the climax of Tim MacGabhann’s last missive from Mexico where the sense of a connection between foreign folk traditions and Irish ones is brought on by something more powerful than just déjà vu. It’s derived instead from a deeper resonance about what it is that “home” could or should feel like, and it’s a wonderful piece of writing, that is illustrated excellently by Cecilia Rangel’s photography. Elsewhere we take an excursion to northern bI was also fortunate to see ou w ea t b lt ap useum andn. ven wa d friend to many. But eears agophers Sean & Yund w e immd During our conversation, he ref ws. oon shared our celebrate 100 y b We toast the sense of extraordinary this Christmas for we have lived, loved and lost in this landmark year. A heartfelt thanks to our contributors, stockists, advertisers and readers for sticking with us as we try and navigate towards better days. - Michering t e t Michael McDermott have persisted throughout this dark period which we are hopefully emerging from, especially Sunil and Robbie from Give Us the Night who tirelessly championed the cause. Now we’re contemplating the possibilities around the rejuvenation of the few early houses which exist here. Chance(ry) would be a fine thing. It’s nice to be able to end a year on one high note. Once ral fioud to be al hs own vly htters a ps Cultur eland Fis we e Fles of others for a moment and we are very grateful to them and the participating spaces for their time. In particular, I’d like to thank Colm Bodkin for his assistance in helping us find Davy Little. ppant to go to a movie. Yr a sant to go to a mf y Ruth M sdjber missing, a celebration of DJs who have brought the scene to stellar job, we’re delighted to welcome Michael McDermott back into our building and to help develop the Totally Dublin brand further. Here’s to the transition and the next 150 issues. up markets are packing up their stalls after a decade in Newmarket Square. Again the power lies in the hands of the Council to see if a balance can be struck or will they just allow developers to throw a Starbucks in? And the forthcoming closure of District 8 which features Watching the charming documentary Young Plato (see Cinema) which is released later this month, a class of primary school boys in Ardoyne, in Belfast, are asked about the peace walls and their understanding of Catholics and Protestants. An astute young fella, despairing of division and conflict, denounces the stupidity of it all by simply saying, “We all bleed the same colour.” Those words rang true when thinking about the unfolding humanitarian crisis and utter destruction being wreaked upon innocent civilians in Ukraine, by the actions of a ruthless despot wielding unfettered power since the start of this century. It has shrouded what should have been a joyful post-pandemic time of freedom for many with a profound sadness. It is beyond heart-breaking to witness the the senseless brutality of it all and we encourage you to make a donation to a reputable charity and try support a sovereign nation whose democratic rights are being crushed on our continent. Everything else pales this month. But we are still immensely I remember a Berlin pal telling me moons ago how they really preferred heading to Berghain around 7am on a Sunday morning. My mind was frazzled. This wasn’t necessarily a head there from somewhere else thing but rather a conscious decision to start their day clubbing with a new wave of arrivals. Plus it seemed to be an optimum time to avoid the legendary queues to get in. It was almost like clubbers coming off the subs bench as others flagged and the stamina of the first 1500 diminished. Last month, Dublin finally embraced modernity when it comes to our approach to clubbing and our night-time economy. The proposal to allow the few remaining club spaces we have to operate until 6am is a game-changer, in many respects. It treats adults as, erm, adults and allows them make choices about their night out rather wedging a pile-on experience into a few hours. We addressed this issue at our Night Moves event on Culture Night and in the mag last month. Music imenta Filml musician, Clubs ug ts and imoves. o hen ask d deft t lent the citgining moment with Nialler9. s smile o age and be observ hile noied with fresh facese s boutlerd h b ur yes a e We watched the release of For Those I Love’s sensational debut album from the print sidelines. Our publication was suspended in the Spring owing to lockdown. Having first become acquainted with Balfe’s heartfelt and heart-breaking eulogy to his friend and his community through Nialler9’s early endorsement, we observed it through seminal TV performances on Jools Holland and Other Voices as well as through the lyric messaging of outdoor advertising in the city. It felt like the moment may have passed to do something with David Balfe given the scale, and warmth, of exposure he has duly received to date. And if we’re being honest, we’ve never been to a Damien Dempsey concert. It was obvious he is a man who has a serious fanbase, and ‘sold out’ signs often accompany most of the posters we’ve seen. We’d seen the occasional interview and knew the endearing heart and soul with which he conveyed his message and emotions. But we left it that. Kind of thinking his music was for others. But watching Ross Killeen’s debut feature doc on Damien, xcts orvigin OUR BEAUTIFUL LAUNDROMATSah t’s only the THE COLOUR OF BLOODcognise as a fan rather PATRON SAINTpher Darvgh Soden f w dollies that are Acid Granny as they tr aw I’ve known photograStanding in the derelict Fruit ’n’ Veg marollo ed the sonic trolly a ble of w d e legacr Cs a fal b in Nymilagember h 2017. It’hich orur desig ger Lan enangdies otverhaul ofrds, who we serenced his desire for people w w erienmeacea, somew n acqreaintgnecesar emhit t a t yssesichae , a ways wearin, wwn e may feel enor hanny rd esents we can engua n tnner or ene eys perg act sr w t ame the a suitatiou e camo n his face, was th oant to givva e oper exhibitiong a ere before he age” o n to what precieat PhotoIr er lth we bv, t’.lhl mi s I n L d int, w o did a. paThe night will be a mash-up of w om his f’t kno , but essential thoughthueedoms orthcoming show as part of lé bacorry!) b o s hhat’s here and what’ All going to plan, July 2030 will mark the 300th edition of this magazine. Of course, if everything had gone to plan, we would have been celebrating the 200th edition back in May 2021. We all know what happened there though as we invoke the ‘circumstances beyond our control’ clause, with good reason. Predicting the future gives hope, can be fun, but somewhat foolhardy also. However, if back in January 2013, when we celebrated our 100th issue someone said Totally Dublin would still be around in print nine years later, chances are you would have smiled politely and sidestepped to the bar with your complimentary token. So here we are. It’s not even a survival of fittest thing, it’s just plain survival through sheer tenacity. We’re taking tentative steps back into the thrilling world of Whrles le? Can it run c to see this collection ofh. M and Bloomsdaus agaurenhich me ningf l mahe biuflll in thi es kd up bein o , the v n fan writer Y urb of Balb ig g b on f An Cailín Ciúin ahead of its io eat in a restaurant. Those ordinary things are going to seem proud of the original content we bring you as we enter a new century of our own existence. Square project which promises to deliver a new City Library at Parnell Square North by 2027. White water rafting fiasco distractions aside, this is most welcome but also long overdue. In the meantime, local libraries as documented in our lead feature by Michael Lanigan and Ste Murray will continue to play a pivotal role in fostering social exchange and providing a democratic third space for people. ason. We’r y Flebruary Goo to the scene. There’s never been a busier time for music scene as everyone emerges and returns. John Brereton and his team are on hand to capture the moment, steer you to the best there is and maybe see you left of the sound desk. given the rental market which has increased 68 per cent between 2010 and 2021, making it the third fastest rate across the EU27. “It’s quite infantilising to be still at home,” says Lauryn Creamer Nwadike. She uses her savings from doing so to spend the summer abroad, travelling to Berlin last year where she saw what it could and should be like. Needless to say, many of them see their potential futures lying elsewhere. real life connections and secondary tittle-tattle. We may never say no to an invite again, even a Budweiser one. In this issue we’re mixing past, present and future – gleaning insights from past editors and contributors who brought us to this moment from its inception in October 2004 whilst also delving into thoughts on the city from some of the people who keep it fizzing. And we have the buzz du jour, CMAT, gracing our cover as we discover more about her and the forces which surround her. again, I wish to thank the tremendous team behind the magazine who bring insight, vibrancy and originality in abundance. We marked our 200th issue this year and are staying the course, against many odds. To our stockists, advertisers and you our readers, we remain ever so grateful for your support. We are dragging ourselves over the line of what has been a truly remarkable year, mostly for all the wrong reasons. 2020 has been an absolute headmelter. It feels apt, then, to have Niall Staines capture this sense of going through the wringer with our cover commission. His glitch style drags normality beyond recognition but still anchors it. Time has blurred and rumpled, we’ve all felt glitched but there’s still hope and the ones we love and those who love us. Festival Frenzy The Fringe, DEAF and Theatre Festivals Clubbing Toni Walsh – 25 years of Dublin Clubbing Listings Rapidly closing in on our 150th issue, Totally Dublin has also chewed its way through four or five various editors at this stage, with me being the very first of them. This turnover certainly has to be considered a good thing to enable a fresh approach and to keep the content interesting. The latest in line will be the enterprising man about town Michael McDermott. When we first launched Totally Dublin, the ma egetg r a issue 137 - the prettiest star Happk in the far! 12 Br - bacy Nuge Yeold 1000 tr issue 206 210 212 Spacani 08 Roadmap Coral Relief BláthannaFeeling Seen eSushi ock MindFuzzt if Dublin Rrop your guard Dublin… 08 ROADMAP Sweet Treats Girls Donear Old Dublin Twilift 16 Hemlines Class focus 24 Fashion 16 Design Uiberna Moderna 16 Design 12 WHAT IF Access All Areas 20 Design 19 for ‘19 16 Design Paddle your own Fjord ptown Girl 175 y al visions ForBriany Festivashion24 Fashion 18 Garb 28 F 34 Barfly All Good 14 NICE GAFF Fruit and Veg 18 Garb Design Yare 38 Gastr 38 Gastr 18 Garb Here 34 Barfly Fidelity High 36 Gastro Runa tunes 28 Fashion Nativity Play 16 DESIGN Not that type of player 22 Market Town Your summer mixFruit & Veg 36 Gastro Dinner and a show 36 Gastro The Full Brazilian 34 Chairlift Moth to a Flame 38 Bitesize Click and Collect 18 GARB Change of Mind Form “What can I wish for you but happier days to make up for the crisis you came through with such resilience?” Derek Mahon* (1941 – 2020) v e. Its storied past has The evolution of a city also involves the evolution of its markets though this is something Dublin has struggled with over the years. Leaving aside the on-going scandalous dereliction of the Iveagh Market which the Council is trying to take possession of, there are other developments taking shape. Our lead feature talks to the various parties affected by sonic jaunt cranking out beats, loops and double takes frpher e all haoe a stake in its future. In theastic ksd of theen r Ladies & Gentlemen ennh t chp wi h in e i 36 Gastro Neighbourfood 40 Barfly 40 Gastro36 Gastro Gueses do ox 40 Barfly Love Potion 38 Bitesize Spatched! GRAND DESIGNS Right 2019, let’s be ‘avin ya! Dramatic resolutions be gone, it’s really all about the incremental changes for these are the ones you might stick with and see snowball into actual change. We tap into a cast of 19 creatives who we admire and get them to share their 2018 highlights, their hopes for 2019 and their own heroes. It makes you appreciate that Dublin is really a town and we all lean, rather than trample, on each other to accrue the success we desire. And it’s all about setting aside some personal time where possible to pursue something for yourself. Brendan Duffy tapped us up with his fantastic ‘personal portrait project’ on some of the ukulele players who gather in the Stag’s Head every Tuesday. Ross Killeen realised his fantastic short film 99 Problems outside the daily staple of producing and directing ads for clients. It’s always good to have something filed under ‘for me’ which ultimately garners more satisfaction, well being and sometimes, attention in the right quarters. We look forward to you sharing your ‘for me’ ideas with us. 22 MELTYBRAINS? Cerebral Haemorrhage RarensBoo te’s Feast Style in the City 42 Barfly For Pete’s sake 40 Barfly Wine Time 40 Barfly All My Friends 44 Audio Ugly Season 42 Bitesize Bread and Tea 38 Fashion Paeonia 42 Bitesize Meltdown 46 Loose Ruan van Vliet 48 Print A quiet joy 44 Audio All Smiles 40 MENSWEAR The Local 52 Gastro Pizza cake 48 Ar Society’s cr 50 Ar 64 Soundbite Nourish 44 Audio Meltsdown 50 Cinema Cinematic glo 62 Games Playtime 52 BARFLY Cure for Pain 56 Audio Time Please P esign ODrovoca pp ast 70 GAMES End of Level Boss 72 Print Night Train Chutney The F Do it 72 ARTSDESK White Swan 76 Film Beautiful Boy 74 DUBLIN GALLERY MAP Art Attack 72 Print Motherhood 78 Sound Anna Mieke Bee there 76 Film Kaurismäki’s swansong 58 Magnified 2021-2031 70 Sound Changing Time 76 Listings The A-Z 58 Magnified Gamer Talk Nothing ventured… Californian chills 60 Interview We Love Markets 76 PRINT Unabridged and unsaid 76 Film Dublin Old School 80 Audio Some Rap Songs 78 FILM Othered Voices 78 Sound Roe 80 Audio 78 Recognition Margaret Clarke 84 Listings All that’s fit to list 92 Interview David Keegan 80 Audio Dickless cock rock 84 Listings What’s going on? 76 Film An amoral romp 78 Sound Not so nautical 80 Laoise The sound of Galway 80 SOUND The Gunn-slinger 80 Audio Melancholic maturity 74 Print Refugees and an Idiot 80 Sound 72 Print Virgin and other stories 60 Who? What? When? tory 72 Games The Ringed City 50 Cinema Mastications 54 Sound Personal History 48 Artsdesk Grand Grad Pocket Rockes 52 Print52 Print 60 GASTRO Hotel Y 56 Design Nah 54 Audio Gratification 68 Magnified Good Trouble 50 Cinema Blue suede boos 70 Artsdesk Warpaint 60 Listings Let’s go inside 57 Interview Fallow wreaths 58 Magnified Mag Culture 52 Barfly Sniff and scram 54 Barfly 62 Gastro Hearth ledger 72 Games Puzzlebobble 48 Artsdesk Cross-pollinating Bungalo -mirr Collar of Gold 64 Artsdesk Survey the scene 56 Design 70 Artsdesk esse in Venice 50 Cinemas 64 Soundbite 68 Magnified Racquet 61 Interview Breathing Space 56 Design The music video 74 Artsdesk Pixels of doom 58 Magnified Eaten 58 Magnified 56 Design 64 Soundbite DropChef 50 Artsdesk The 191st 44 Bitesize Griolladh tactics Delusions o ven 46 Print Political defects 42 Sounds Good Honeycomb delights 42 Sound Bad with numbers 42 Sounds Good SOAKing it up 28 DAY OF THE DEAD Cempasúchil in bloom 42 Susan Howe The body of an American 46 Magnified 40 Digested Digest Bubble up 42 Sounds Good A technicolour sequel 44 Sounds Good Idiot Check 34 SYRIAS VIBES Postcards from the Edge ugazi meets Mingus 48 Artsdesk48 Artsdesk 42 Sound Ploughing forward 48 A Flea Thing Markets move on 50 Conversation Sally Rooney 46 PhotoIreland Festival Junior Boys 42 Sounds Good Fine bone chinaDrill, drone, and techno 40 Barfly I can see claret now 44 Sounds Good 60 Gastro Oceanic sex eadly Deadlians 44 Sound “We’re just from Cork” 52 Sound Working out things Around the houses An eloquenacked mirr 44 Barfly Gritty Urban Sophisticates 46 Shoot The Problem with Strangers 52 Barfly t rejoinderor Exposed brick FTW 52 Sound Emperor’s new clothes Platform departures eless whispers 52 Print A vibrant tapestry 68 Film Drive-In Saturday 52 Print Muted Radicalism Redhead or Dead Mixt emale Gaze Couldn’, filthy, reach-around 50 Cinema 54 Audio Houseplants need water The trickw Blisor of myth LacFess is More 50 Irish Gift Guide Support supporters t give a Flying Duck 48 Artsdesk Encompassing perspective Housing Thoughts Dirty tsdesk 38 It’s Me That retro look Living picturetw Pineapple topping The stink of America Fusion Sundays 60 Gastro Wonton in Old Town 42 Soundtay out of the woods Seventh heaf Grandeur 52 Barfly Huckleberry Grim 46 OTT Wrestling In the ring 38 Fashion Shoot Boxing Clever 40 Barfly Windjammed 30 Ulysses Rare Prints 38 Bitesize Getting Swicy with it 22 Cian Nugent Rock’n’Roll Singer 38 Fashion Persona 28 Refugees Redrawing Borders Sino- H gget Scrumpeto s who’s back? 18 Garb Don’t kill my vibe 24 Fashion New Horizons 28 Take This! Bassam Al-Sabah 24 Niall Staines Glitches 24 Fashion Disjecta Membra Greemenr een E ed Monster Balloon Massacre 30 99 Problems Put a flake in it 14 Nice Gaff Busáras 14 Patron Saints The Irish-Nigerian creatives erminal O etro 34 Digested Digest Show me the dough 22 Running for their Lives Midfield general 30 Uhh Yeah Dude Seatbelts When Howth cownBest bench in t omes to town 38 Bitesize 30 Dublin Old School Settle petal Babet 44 Ukes of Hazzard Strung out 38 Bitesize Hawksmoor in-coming 30 Dance Festival Spaced Out oovJapanese jingle bells 40 Digested Digest Bitter symphony 50 Passing Through Julia Holter 40 Boss Fight Books Cheat Sheets 12 Brand New Retro Blue Mondael, 1983 14 Leabarlann Puiblide Open doors 24 Design The Dining Experience 209 14 Night Out Feet on the floor 26 The Flâneur on the North Circular 34 Digested Digest Scaíltín 201 06 Roadmap06 Roadmap06 Roadmap BullisheesThem aMagent 06 Roadmap Pirate Raves 10 In The Frame V ebbed GorPendant and GoldGood Friday, 1984 10 In The Frame Joycean 12 Brand New Retro It’s for charideee 14 Daragh Soden All the world’s a stage 20 Culture Night A taster 14 Moore Street Whither next? 14 Acid Granny Loop and Hook 22 Grand Stuff Putting a label on it 14 My Beautiful Laundromat Stories from the floor 20 Opening the Gates PhotoIreland Festival soul Heart-shaped mind and cutting-edge Think on it 34 Digested Digest Butter me up Lreasons t P eservingo be cheerful 36 Gastr 34 Digested Digest Where the wild garlic grows 38 Bitesize 200 205 203 204 Ma s oPillar oadw190 Br f Societyenus out ayse Officakes 24 200 issues later Reflections 31 IPUT’s Living Canvas Art and the city 34 A Different View A preview of the film festival 44 Sounds Good More existentialism, less cheekiness 48 Print Beautiful, stark, thought-provoking 46 Barfly The old fashioned approach Eva Carola Jeanne Emmanuela 60 Gastro Along for the rideA plucky, imaginative calling card Antoinette Gonzalès The time is Bao 54 Who? What? When? Where? Jingle Bells 54 Who? What? When? Where? New Year resolutions Film Editor Oisín Murphy-Hall film@totallydublin.ie Martina MecutivesSales Exurray Martina M Literary Editor mm@hkm.ie Martina Murray mm@hkm.ie print@totallydublin.ieSales Executives085 869 7078085 869 7078085 869 7078 Kevin Gibbons Web Editor Martina Murray mm@hkm.ie al@hkm.ie 085 851 9113 Oisín Murphgankg@hkm.ie y Fashion Editor mm@hkm.ie kg@hkm.ie kg@hkm.ie film@t Kamil Zok Kamil Zok Karl Ho er 085 869 7078085 869 7078 Sinéad O’Reilly 54 Gastro Casual dining north of the Liffey 64 48 Hours Spent in London 52 P tiv66 Print e exaggerations The w esCliff not elands o Queasily moreishf youth JSpirited Away 56 Cinema A directorial star is born 76 Print There was no ‘main’ Beatle 78 Film Darth Vader on tenor sax 70 Artsdesk Gross, elegant, surreal, minimal, tactile 74 Print The Doll’s Alphabet 60 Who? What? When? Where? 58 Magnified Sales Executives Kevin Gibbons kg@hkm.ie 085 869 7078 Kamil Zok Distribution Distribution Web Editor Martina Murray mm@hkm.ie Distribution Kamil Zok 085 869 7078 kamil@hkm.iefkamil@hkm.ie kamil@hkm.ie kamil@hkm.ie Distribution 085 869 7078 68 Games A pope-ularity contest ape of memories Mauricio Ortiz ortiz@hkm.ie 087 6305788 Al Keegan ak@hkm.ie 085 8519112 70 Artsdesk Queer desire and public space The multiplicity of Arabian culture 60 Who? What? When? Where? Go. Corrections: In our last issue (Cover Where? the wrong contact details for one our featured book designers. ness, and we ask all of you to seek out her wonderful portfolio of work at sarahmaywilkinson.com Swing out Sister, 195), we inadvertently included Now 76 Film An unnecessary Trainspotting sequel Sarahmay Wilkinson, we seek forgiveCasual equine endeavours 84 LISTINGS The whole shebang 84 Who?What?When?Where? 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Re-emerge Catherine Rutter cr@hkm.ie 085 252 4449 Lisa O’Brien lob@hkm.ie 087 355 0230 Rachael Bailey rb@hkm.ie 085 749 4887 Trevor Hull th@hkm.ie 085-2524449 Micheal Coughlan mc@hkm.ie 087 627 0367 Trycksak 5041 0004 Distribution Kamil Zok kamil@hkm.ie 085-2524449 Lochlainn Byrne lb@hkm.ie 085 252 4449 Distribution Kamil Zok kamil@hkm.ie Distribution Kamil Zok kamil@hkm.ie Distribution Kamil Zok kamil@hkm.ie Distribution Kamil Zok kamil@hkm.ie THERE’S ONLY ONE ACID GRANNY BEATS ON THE STREET Cian Nugent finds his new voice CHICK ‘N’ PIX CLUB TOGETHER BIRDS OF A FEATHER AT PHOTOIRELAND FESTIVAL welcome to the world of TROUBLEMAKER re-imagining our nights out SOULÉ IS BRINGING IT BACK TO BALBRIGGAN NOVEMBER 2016 / FREE / TOTALLYDUBLIN.IE TOTALLY DUBLIN Questioning TRANSITION INSIDE THE INSECT MIND OF CHAIRLIFT’S MOTH UKELEAR POWER IDENTITY AND PERFORMANCE IN DARAGH SODEN’S PORTRAITS Four strings to the wind THE LIBRARY PROJECTS behind the book shelves #136#137 SONS OF DONAGHMEDE FOR THOSE I LOVE AND DAMIEN DEMPSEY IN CONVERSATION FOR THE FIRST TIME MAKING IT HAPPEN Irish-Nigerian creatives MARKET CHANGES THE BAND WHO FELL TO EARTH Cover photo: Chairlift, photographed by Tim Barber Cover photo: Cian Nugent, photographed by Cáit Fahey SKY’S THE #152 Cover photo and this page: Mark Mangan of Ukelele Tuesday, shot by Brendan Duffy LIMIT Cover and this page: Acid Gr #153 #149 Damien Dempse Jill Anderson #146 Colim Armstrong Mandy Barkery Sar photo y Mark Hill Mark Conr er: ennan Cover photo and this page: Meltybrains?, shot by Patrick Dyar Colette Sla er Barrass Holly Gashworth Zoe Bonniean th ullaghan Sales Executives Kevin Gibbons kg@hkm.ie 085 869 7078 Kevin Gibbons print@totallydublin.ie Sales Executives Contributors Killian Broderick Thomas Cahill Emily Carson Paula Clarke Liza Cox Felipe Deakin Leo Devlin Ollie Dowling Patrick Dyar Jeanette Farrell Daniel Gray Gorjan Lauseger Tim MacGabhann Maryam Madani Luke Maxwell Aoife McElwain Martina Murray Julia O’Mahony Sinéad O’Reilly Cecilia Rangel Sarah Taaffe-Maguire Mònica Tomàs White Dean Van Nguyen David Wall What If Dublin Kenny Whittle Contributors volly Gashwor Paula Clarke Eric DyvidsonMark HilleBobbi Faeene oe Joac Eve Ha Enda Burke Killian Barry Zara Hx Marina Grson Tve Hawksw Daniel GraanvilleCaoimhe Kyee Leo Dellyon K ammond Michael Lanigan Finghín Little J eaoyoe Jtive Beast Zara Htilsallon Eduardo Hdwkser Crephen Cox Felipe Deakin Zara Hordan y Souis Hcaeugh Holly GashJ tephen Lo Rory Kiberd gan Ker a Hale oe Joyce Aoife McElw Kerry Mahony Orla Langton Rory Kiberd Michael McD Zara H ox y Declan Kelly Michael McD Tom LGrdan Kay O’Grady erry Mahon Martina Murr Yuke MaxwellMcManus Tann e L wShannon Ritchietigan Martina Murray Brian McMahon Sophia McDonalde Martina M a Aitana Silv w IEthan Smyth ay Brian McMahon Brian McMahon Kay O’Grady ona Mary O’Shea ay Paul McLde Brian McMahon Ciaran O’Brienu n van Done McElwain Martin NangleAdam Walshe Aoif y Wilson Gillian Moore Am Ruk tina M lde t Martina M ens L ae War V iurray Martina Murra teve Rareve urpin ann B lMar O ady Jack O’Higginsy Wilson N y O’ Dannh O’ady Dann an Vliet Dia Nick W tevens Sarah T areEmma Ltou Wright Luke W deaafd Tomek Welkier Conor S evens Richar Donal TalbotMaguire Pelle Ta Tomas White Denn ConTomek Welkier Alice War e Danny Wilsony Wilson or Sest DannDanny W Emma Lou Wright Kohei Yamamoto y Wilson All advertising enquiries contact 01 - 6870 695 Read more at totallydublin.ie contact 01 676 6686ontact 01 676 6686 contact 01 676 6686 ontact st Read more att e a c contact 01 - 6870 695 Read morRead more at Read more a t totallydublin.ietotallydublin.ietotallydublin.ie Read more at totallydublin.ietotallydublin.ietotallydublin.ie T Tallyallyublin is a mon thly HKM Media public tion and is distribut and fr Totally D Dublin is a mon ot ot D Dublin is a a monthly HKM thly HKM Media permission from the publishers. 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No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the permission from Alice Wickenden Monicamlehtd DaannK vid Walll Wilsoni son Dannice Wicken en Aluk y Whit L e Wardetley Wilson Danny Luke Wickenden John VaughanBen Walsh Gillian MooreMaguiready Ruan v tConor Sienevas K y O’Gradytyd D a y Wilson David Wall Dai WiGr keden Kaianntephen Molone Topaz Sinead O’ReillyAmelia O’Mahony-Br Kyle Sv P nhens Shane O’Reillyy y aaff Ki lce Wc en ien L e Warde m Gr Reilly Luke War urray L e W dey Wilson Shane O’Reilly Sarah T ilsony W e-Seamas O’Reilly Richard Seabrook Riahard Seabr Sarah Taaffalsh Dcvid Turpin Sinead O’Reilly all Martina M ensev er David WteinSophie Sall Kieron J WeyMaguir Thérèse Romas White Oisín Murph--H e e Monica TdeConor St aft ooke anny Wilson Nukll Sd Seabrann taarines ooke Sinead O’Reilly K y O’Griarolan Ian McDevit y Lace Wardecadyn e Kay O’GradySenija Turph Tom Lo Stano Lvett y W tan Lamonilson Gorjan Lause KynseDavid Wall Michael McD Mary y McL Jommy ooovy Austin MaloneRt g McCabee Kay O’Gradyy Martina Murr Luke Waroone Michael McD Martina Murra Alicey Wilson Martina Murra L uke Maxwell Tavid T evens eanett tevens Kay O’GradyConor StaalensShane O’Reillyy Sean Moor Da e McElwain Saoire MonahanMartina Murr Malcolm McGet Conor San Mar se Daly eCaoilainn O’Reilly Edd Nurr yConor S S lurray Michael McDermott Danny Thomas all John Patrick McHugh Diarmuid McGreal Luke W de ermott S onal TtConor SalbotConor Sytanensy Aliuky O’Connor all Padre W ke Peter Morgan JRory Kiberd ell Kerry Mahony Aoife Herrity Chris Jones Kier Sarah LaniganRachel Sender Tom Lor t Derry Mahony eanette Farr Jake REoin Tierney L y O’Gradyov Ltouise GlennonJeanette Farr Finghín Little tt Michael Lanigan Ciar ew LamberAndr evliny osa Finghín Littleain Zara Hce Joe JoyceMark Hill Michael Lanigan Rory Kiberd Brian McMahon Julie LanderE a Shordan Róisín Murph Polina Permino Kay O’Gradys ay Andrew LamberSarah D yle cetht Finghín Littleell Gerry Balfe Smith Gary CullenvyaGerry Godlea Killian Broderick t Rachel Donnelly Seanette Farr Brian McMahont Zara HesmondAnna-edderman Andrew Lambert Brian McMahon Michael Lanigan Brian McMahon Michael Lanigan Mare H ac O e Herrity Olivia Fader Tom Lordan Sohn HylandRíon HannorAndrew Lambert Ella BereddermanSam FordKillian Broderick Eom L edderman Daniela GerRachel Donnelly Giita HeddermanSam Hisc Joe Joyedderman Tim MacGabhann Deirdre Fom Lordanor Tion Mahone th V onika Jorjobert Zara HxAndr eddermanAndrew Lambertew Lambert Sophia McDonaldSophia McDonald Ross McDonnelle queline Lande Michael Lanigan Lucy Ann McCabe Michael McD Loe JoyceBernard O’Rourk Andrew LamberSharon PhelanAndrew Lambert y MarIThom McD Aoiftina Mtermott AoifIKieran KilgannonDiarmuid McGreal Tom Lorerrity ay Aaron Kiely ySophia McDonald Ruth Medjber vt Padráig Nolan Andrew Lambert Kerry MahonFinghín Littlean Lamont Ellen King Kviarmuid McGreal Sophia McDonaldSophia McDonaldan Lamont ellSophia McDonald Andrew Lambera Ruth MedjberTom Lordan Sarah FlanaganRtar e McCarthy am Madani Richard Seabrook Aoif tordan oy Maxi McDonnell Gillian Moor Rory Ry tevens Oisin Murph -H Oisin Mopcic-H Al y O’’ ick l a tina Mn ua n Shane O’Reilly Brian McMahonn Sinead O’Reilly ann Ha urray S ukDonal Scannell Contributors Killian Broderick Thomas Cahill Daire Collins Jonathan Creasy Leo Devlin Ollie Dowling Mark Duggan Cáit Fahey Forget Eliza A. Kalfa Patrick Kelleher Gráinne Loughran Luke Maxwell Aoife McElwain Paul McHugh Martina Murray Bernard O’Rourke Eoin Tierney Mònica Tomàs White What If Dublin Danny Wilson D tina M - o Deirdrunne Ca can Finne Amy Fay Mike Bunn Jamie Fitzpa e Brennan Tom Cahill yrne Holly Gash Mark Gillerd H Dvanielle Biwkswor Rhona Byrne Olen Bajarias Holly Gasht Killian Barry Aoife H o Contributors Killian BroderickSophie DonaldsonConor CreighCúan Gr yMark Conruffy Jakub Dulaky annah Clarkson Stephen Coxtrick Eoae Ha J e Bur yupt Hannah ClarksonLulu Broderick Contributors Cathryn Bell ry K berrity Sophie Brennan Killian BroderickLiza Cox Killian Broderick Eoe Ha eryrne Aisling Arundel Killian BroderickChin Gr eeneCúán Greene D ve Dwkso Jasmin D Hannah Clarkson Reo Devlinyleoran Zara Hedderman Olen BajariasHolly GashEoin Gavin Hannah ClarksonLortherine B gan Paloma Brito J ve oyceeneKillian Broderick Graham Corc Daragh Deighan-Gregory Andrew Lambert Cover and this page: Killian Broderick Killian Broderick ContributorsContributorsContributors Killian BroderickCúán GreSean BreithaCelest esmondCeleste Burdon Marcus CassidyMark Conr don S olly GashBrendan DOllie D wlingBrian Hoeenet Rich Gilligan on ue Broph oy Rachel Donnelly Rory Kiberworth Zara H onnerShar Dedderman Felipe DeakinKim CrowleCúán Gry Liza Coedderman T Elliotwks Hannah Clarkson E e Ha o Kerry Mahon ermott Lisa Coedderman J ucy Ann McCabetephen Cox Michael McDermott Dave Dordan ermott Eilish McCormick Padráig Nolan Michael McDermott Jac an KilgannonAmy Lauren Tllie Dowlingom Lordan ySophia McDonald Michael McDermott Michael McD ehear Sorcha McElrKay O’Grady Malcolm McGettigan Felipe DeakinSinead FurlongEmil Herron Louis Haugh ermott Ellen King e Scullionan Lamonurrtina Murray Andrew Lambert Finghín Liturrayanaermottt yan tle ermott Niall McCormackDiarmuid McGreal JBrian McMahonIMalcolm McGettigan Seg McCabegerMichael McDermott Ethan Hart Mike McGr th-Bryan Stephanie N ambu Malcolm McGettigan Ruth MedjberSee Morvev Amelia O’MahonConor Stev LukPádraig N urrayolanermott and JESSE JONES Cover photo: Corral by Thérèse Rafter This page: Detail from Clear of People by Michal Iwanowski This page and cover: Libraries by Ste Murray #165 This page and cover: Honeypot by Jasmine Doyle This page: Adetunji Paul er: Niall Staines f with Cover photo: Soulé shot by Ruth Medjbar Cover photo and this page: From the shoot on p38. Sky shot by Gery Balfe Smyth, styled by Sarah Flanagan Both bgraphed by Maxi McDonnell. shot by R cAbbie Br óisín MurphContributors Killian Broderick Cover and this page: y O’Sullivan CMAT shot b Moore Soderick ah Doyle SYRIAS VIBES DAY OF THE DEAD FEMINIST FILM FESTIVAL STEVE GUNN and DUBLIN GALLERY MAP! with ROE Jess D trKillian Br eet, shot by Sean Breithaupt Kate Stanley Br sContributorennan PRESIDENT K DUBLIN FLEA and DUBLIN OLD SCHOOL GREEN EYED MONSTER EATEN Co er and this page:ver: Aisha Bolaji or Totally Dublin, ContributorsContributorsy and David Balfe, Becca Boyoey REFLECTIONS ON 200 ISSUES DUBLIN NOW AND NEXT IPUT’S LIVING CANVAS INQUE SUMMER SOUNDS SALLY ROONEY OTT WRESTLING with ADIFF LITTLE HOUSES THUMPER MIRIAM FITZGERA INTRICAT MIRIAM FITZGERA INTRICAT and MARGARET CLARKE THE XX NOT ANOTHER AGENCY and 48 HOURS IN LONDON AND GRAND STUFF AND WHOZYERMAN? with with #172 / JANUARY 2019 / FREE / TOTALLYDUBLIN.IE #206 / SEPTEMBER 2022 / FREE / TOTALLYDUBLIN.IE #203 / JUNE 2022 / FREE / TOTALLYDUBLIN.IE #205 / AUGUST 2022 / FREE / TOTALLYDUBLIN.IE #204 / JULY 2022 / FREE / TOTALLYDUBLIN.IE REFUGEES CAMPS IN SLOVENIA BRAND NEW RETRO SUSAN HOWE SAINT SISTER and THE ALTERED HOURS and RORY PARNELL MOONEY GOOD TROUBLE THE BIG ROMANCE ANNA MIEKE AND I CAME FOR COUSCOUS LIBERTIES NEXTAND SOAK AND 99 PROBLEMS GIRL ABOUT TOWN DECE APRIL 2 3 / KYLE SVEN OISIN MOD MC1R with AND THE POLITICS OF PLACE AND CHARITY WALKS #196 / OCTOBER 2021 / FREE / TOTALLYDUBLIN.IE #191 / DEC 2020-JAN 2021 / FREE / TOTALLYDUBLIN.IE This page: Hive City Legacy by Aoife Herrity Cover: Osaro Azam by Aoife Herrity Cover and this page: Ladies & Gentlemen, by Daragh Soden WHERE THE LEAVES FALL DESIGNING FOR DINING BASSAM AL-SABAH HAPPY OUT DUBLIN DANCE FESTIVAL SHIPS NORTH CIRCULAR LAURIE SHAW MARIA KELLY NEXT EXIT Spin C anny, shot by Malcolm McGettigan ycle, by Malcolm McGettigan GIRLS DON’T CRY AILBHE REDDY HOMEBOUND FOOD TRUCKS IN AMITY #201 / APRIL 2022 / FREE / TOTALLYDUBLIN.IE #200 / MARCH 2022 / FREE / TOTALLYDUBLIN.IE JOURNAL DU THÉ AND DUBLIN 2020 AND RHA ANNUAL with HIBERNA MODERNA EZRA WILLIAMS CHUTNEY DESIGN OPP MIRIAM FITZGER MIRIAM FITZGER INTRICA INTRICA AND MINDFUZZ HOUSING UNLOCKED WIGS AND BLUE MONDAY AT 40 AND IRISH GIFT GUIDE WHAT DUBLIN NEEDS KATIE KIM DEVIN LEE IT’S FREEZING IN LA DISJECTA MEMBRA NIAMH BARRY SUB/PLOT ROBOCOBRA QUARTET JULIA HOLTER #210 / JAN/FEB 2023 / FREE / TOTALLYDUBLIN.IE #209 / 2# 12 / MBER 2022 / FREE / TOTALLYDUBLIN.IE A PROFOUND WASTE OF TIME MARGADH NIGHT MOVES NEW HORIZON MIRIAM FITZGER MIRIAM FITZGERA INTRICA INTRICA INTRICA INTRICA MIRIAM FITZGERA MIRIAM FITZGERA MARK BRADY & THE RARÁMURI UHH YEAH DUDE BOSS FIGHT BOOKS JUNE 2018 / FREE / TOTALLYDUBLIN.IE MAY 2017 / FREE / TOTALLYDUBLIN.IE CIAN-OEXPRESS YOURSELF HIVE CITY LEGACY AT THE FRINGE JUNE 2017 / FREE / TOTALLYDUBLIN.IE FEBRUARY 2017 / FREE / TOTALLYDUBLIN.IE Daniel Simony O’Sullivan Devagh SodenDiarmuid McGreal John Patrick McHugh Brian McMahon Michael McD y y Brady Alice Wickendenáig Nde d ITS LEGACY AND FUTURE T A Ä E L E S R F R N O M A K T H E E L A V U N D S T R O M A T MOORE THAN A STREET M N