TD 1
Where the two markedly differ is in their scene,
smaller venues are routinely sh ttu ering. PROUDLY SPONSORED BY r N lee-entcted s h r ing a vainf in erest f b as io n td osly flourvsereence The Sam Step erce ih scene, sma eer . Th t being said tinely sh tta of aerinb in paces that pr t in amo a l bk of int enses o hw at th The Sam St e-en erk og thte womt b d n ly flo h h d dg d way. urished due Negle to a ltc d spaces t ah b aevious t in t i s somerom owonrerys md b ytrh’s isr atmosph ller ven ac a ues are rou GASTROGASTRO words Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick words Aoife McElwain photo Killian Broderick words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan weird how monks are allowed to drink, isn’t I ask Anton as we approach The Jolly Monk, newly renovated bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I an, as in you would think drinking would be hibited or something.’ What’s weird about that? Everybody drinks,’ says. ‘Name one profession that doesn’t.’ I nk for a moment. I suppose I thought that the monk was one.’ They named a bar after the monk’s drinking, idiot,’ he says. ‘Look at the sign!’ A monk y is holdin an, as in you would think drinking would be hibited or something.’ What’s weird about that? Everybody drinks,’ says. ‘Name one profession that doesn’t.’ I nk for a moment. I suppose I thought that the monk was one.’ They named a bar after the monk’s drinking, idiot,’ he says. ‘Look at the sign!’ A monk are allowed to drink, isn’t are allowed to drink, isn’t approach The Jolly Monk, ar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I ink, isn’t ly Monk, sea d think drinking would be ng.’ t that? Everybody drinks,’ ofession that doesn’t.’ I t that the monk was one.’ after the monk’s drinking, ok at the sign!’ A monk orrissey is holding aloft a e on his face. Anton pauses childminders, maybe.’ o lo ks lik r stein wiy!t Morrissey is holding aloft a e on his face. Anton pauses childminders, maybe.’ was one.’ drinking, monk n in i was one.’ drinking, monk ermanence, o quite alluring about the hotel bar. The sense of stery and briefly, fleetingly place that is at once home mantic tro mours folder (A2 size maaouf the Thkm d et hin e le thiner! I mantic trthat is a ernce h roder plole un oloeaorg in.ar pertehas gs and ps tt b ’up to t quitt h m in f a c irnrit . Hfy’rgin d ceturn momen ariubb o esay m es es t s wtt en peo g a o goiu e wa , Thhint me bes t t Hble ceh p inside do ’f me er icd bl iefllight’ in c, fleeth of G n oe, under un ers, aoet owks wits acr we s an a ir oe spotligth ot’ in cfurfrmoue, unpn o der b tl Dg bak sith nad wireso imm diahhdws ho’s There’s something quite alluring about the a of drinking in a hotel bar. The sense of There’s something quite alluring about the a of drinking in a hotel bar. The sense of t that the monk was one.’ after the monk’s drinking, ok at the sign!’ A monk hao p ’ I sn’t.’ It: ‘I s hroing in life, t t mos at mak dert n ugur l ugo.r’ e sps f lder (A2 size mn oe?) abeo, Breow ad with its apen io approach The Jolly Monk, ar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I rink, isn’t ly Monk, d think drinking would be ng.’ t that? Everybody drinks,’ ofession that doesn’t.’ I r stein with a smi e os onle on his face. An n pao re os ele ty occhine f h t o hiside do ’t n en o looks li,k e s ops tve wa o me a pp aca le sadnrdaatting it i ilacll r en pn mle uen h - y t seats a tts aftf er smoking in lifh h inside doour leaed tho mous folder (A2 size ma by e?) ab ring on te, tha in a . ‘Y ’ur le ir idleinp t y qtuickl’ in cy si e, under out how seats after smoking in lifh here t t m k Y ’t nour leaed th er verligh h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp aca le sadndats. Th ill ret seats after smoking in life, t t mak Y ’t nour leaed th er very quicklur v gio s y ta y to a . ‘I wi e our b f a cb f a c ring on the ter side do ’ r ug a inside do ’ r ug Hotel. ‘I would be hroing in lifppue, th in ldmin o ugh sn’t.’ It: ‘I supp he c side don’s, meaey hte s ot i ill rt Ththet d eop u s om Jol h my soetcah. ve way to an imiclture o app ugh os a hildminderke ynur leed tho moos y occur-g ore perora ay f thb derlb um o le on his face. Anton pausesu n orrf tisshose exc ealng ses drinks,’’ Itt’’s o e of thos hir h y tes, ratre tlhp wahen te fs o t r iads ‘t aecite a poem oa p ,’ he sttops t h p y! e Neil M o grrivse wa s t-shirt re en rads ‘Those a poem ot a soram tbrbvn, pni pt . Thlo y, anenor, sernpets a cor-or ers inside don’t nystd tthno mous folder (A2 size m f in ni h d brs, a iaar, w an adith nto immers a . I hg ab vthunne ibe, beut betk permanence, of mystery and briefly, fleetingly rsecting lives, in a place that is at once home not home. The cinematic imagination has ar o parecite ss, soem oe Me inkf inips be preh . Iled copavse wa eougt den -k id a nina h e aes t em ile ch n or- bs i ng aloft a on pauses aybe.’ ut the se of fleetingly nce home ion has stituhousing t abrble costs on tf thn cd w o immt r d ond as se inf inrner oss h s, arradys ot wanmfot t odiy f t Th marle gemensumin e mig t waner R ary Tnaedoeh shar ylou a eers, u una eir psy, wera reso immteo h te f olnecchausuer Streebaas to ita ak, ad b o gd theirween sweet an ry t es gld lad inapex, nstituhousing nd the Jolly nd the Jolly ngerbar and eating ngerbar and eating ’s k dg is od co oagur scrotllem s f or pace fie nin f va-n ai t svnd wh evser woertd hewktlin re English lads’ wee tkend holidayers eating hoad wein ig a liole o si p t. h ray spthhcven do crafat bi er! Iraer ts o m Papa Jo t y g a oo ytt plde vs, wos ov wesagt p o co vsopug ttl id by thegro f our cit e a simir sem ieral pe nematic imagination has surely, with the instituses over the years housing s, murder plots and the . Suffice ihs lest sa nce home ion has s i tthpad of fers eme ogtcaer naoein ineite er extenou w soh wah ye Ie neigl, b oly b lh ence bus td h k of (bar pf (ba Thertonaest oe o a py* p t i he p lly f he s art oiemlg a dely Mrropamevor its guests apded me m malehbrble co f t e bf th bar h h n t Ahe bihe bar t o Bn. ‘ gas ton ue p ao enere thn’t Th bollhorlde veir lib , b t betkwlminrunlleoe e inl ce a e he fa pon . Their sign- es McGarry’s, a ar peroa e een teA em ierakanin uste No pht tenslent pk iys is Rita He in ott syher. Ia e otbolulhor b lle ib , be t btetk lmin lem is pu no pustt t ks aer sex, yw toere peosthdd be g berler ae arorem ta tt At t wanas ahvr toerx’aecnaee s on o et. s pu b t pea y sramee oecaer noio sta nt was pr bv lg on cw h t “fe py ng aloft a on pauses aybe.’ ut the se of fleetingly to sload of fras e Thin thh ps b nt wa ttg aty ferlit),o t’r minimt y t t w b tk tthpe prk o ior rame oetiocvps bt vnent bt le otoep br bit h euenloeolid rioumet eo Fy evl s gs a le tld pace I loerh e Ih’y iee p t y te te t a a ce s is t e parecaay us emd ethrhin eint a f th uet, a e olilt), Let’s get o e ter siex, s “l ae co, unauntter oh srra enorao h ta ble Oith frlow eten unn e o er ngs af th t b er! Ivs uhic c ri g v ies obge eir latps (t he b lmins sl bos y* po incii es t y ur rla y bw? na urost o s eeavcy a sense a biohre wa . Sus, Th in S’ do tvte rs o er h lmin lelw thio f s te s art ot on txes A lle usae Ivon ag noe t p o co vnopo k d bt tthr ads h ar lblh. S r st w it l n t y H io’tey maneses he ycte n ting to pdut bit gt w t l bbarge, That do thte raesa t pging ine ysiu gopkalntce ay ter on tes A f O t pro, I obler eshages tgsihw t bele ceh aeeense the fair le sh a head bf io s co si hr infringemen, unaun ers, a e v chical comf n i ort. a f helee i o s eaeca ts o oaleir psy fg b , w l co Ahe beba a e a drink and rhet. er per h alehhy ivs r the corner of the bar and ekend holidayers eating a boxes on their laps (the the start of October, I’m arby individuals for varitheir psychical comfort. emotional state of the o lf th ef te mighera le Oh o tr vargs bt te b rar ter se tn. ‘h’o exationion oy stf craafr”en eve inwatcdien e wos oe an n o ty r-eear’ b n. ‘ s ss fe th h oem wauit d to “pgertehin gages a rlde woe on o bosey wo on t aps (the ber, I’m or varietaturny at e cocktail i The Ns tence otynio be grow uxur u o phot iarogt-ions o sty e mr”nuite ag ngs by recourse to photogher environment from the uotidian form; so too the ter’, or the death-spasms an Sontag notes how the lleviates her anxiety at Parliament Street, mple Bar, Dublin 8 vydublin.ie 6718267 omfort. of the ow the ety at o photogfrom the too the spasms t served t for the he cost supor the outsider. Parliament Street, mple Bar, Dublin 8 vydublin.ie 6718267 ter’, o Bf Brouleva which too t e spasms and bitter. Anton suggests. g a slightly-too-large cruand bitter. t sThed style bar”, suited tgs a by us as we return tgo our he cost or t e outsider. b bl arge cruto our arge cruto our en Ahihe b r th of vari o ctioe pf craft bs s r um nd foor a een’o t. e bm herBetoglect l ah hill a l d h en a f a. Thi so f ts o ee s tte rn t t e an glishman with ‘banter’, or the death-spasms he once proud colonial mindset that served orically so well as a comfort blanket for the i ’ps (t er helmin lley* popo k d bt t e au er sex,obex,y a eir sig l tep b e n d otst tr s “l The o Th y even do crafft b er! Itsiv pen, aneata coanas voi ly b l a o ss a sd tugranween sweetcing. We The t er no a le t be hebl hy, bee adat y tnnnivly b ls a o strange y co vonveincinen e velling individual alleviates her anxiety at amiliar surroundings by recourse to photoghy, engaging with her environment from the distance of the quotidian form; so too the arby individuals for varitheir psychical comfort. emotional state of the y ur rev an Sontag notes how the lleviates her anxiety at uo, ile h Ivy hiohn to keep br bitterh t e apor y , iat’ranscions - t critic mao cae a t s Ivy caioeao m; s lep bhe hote per m iew?’ Atature coc o o e. e Is the Ny sryni, w lf a n-u r b’ bly by a ra ntton asks mn tnae menle b t b si d tvopnd mortgah es it do the ht. ‘Are yctiion ting ted by to pht t eg ir pe ra y aephull kno n ome people who ca ’ nat au go ke coinlia o pdu bitthe fald lrad in s “l p o lshe ven t wa der in to ha he a drink ahd rrtelet. ft beers, u im . W osidered tum er e e mig Rody Bolandstld Sensr tv Boxle siotion o et. of senio ig a decent p ace fier ibie; it rrn as s on tnhe.v vy stales iv qcnio s lle baenueer havin r ty ev pro lur r y br a ner i ie; i on aisvne to o eev ”, sn i d tlts so “pe le O h e b r tn. ‘B’Tr a e t n oe ax. ab ieit oer extenou we no at’s overweselmingly* pd cr e b o, Ia p y ur review?’ Atio oios s o emf’o the bctsa oe s t e eal pitfall of the ho u. ads hapbro a y a sew tc e r e su n f l pi ive population: here, everyone is an outsider. eryone’s a spicer,’ Anton suggests. , s nature cocktail is the N . ouleva , ile tr t e death-snasms ,e, everyone is an outsider.bl ive population: here, everyone is an outsider. eryone’s a spicer,’ Anton suggests. onial mindset that served a comfort blanket for the r sensibilities at the cost he other. This, I supof the hotel bar for the onial mindset that served a comfort blanket for the r sensibilities at the cost he other. This, I supof the hotel bar for the of va ations on thn t le baen . I pino “pn t or a bog asts a dind t o on the life of vari apd ewetrel b r f pr tpebl vy styles i t An old man wearing a slightly-too-large crux necklace passes by us as we return to our Anton suggests. g a slightly-too-large crufold to The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie style bar”, suited to “watching the world go by whilst regaling old times”. While its oldness is contrived, it’s also strangely convincing. We probably all know some people who can’t wait to be grown-up, for whom it seems engagement rings and mortgages are one and two on the life agenda. This bar, born old, seems like a good fit for them. erve Ivy s y to be gtself as “l p o uuxur r who num it sen aeemls engag rings and mortgages are one and two on the life which was rh was really t r vle , iat’anso sl fo d bettem.h n D k to a Lldn he h lm in tthe k c’ c b meaning a sea d on thn the pub ee p b every match glishman with ‘banter’, or the death-spasms he once proud colonial mindset that served orically so well as a comfort blanket for the o t At tbjhcours a o pe’ens saeu-sdier (€9) mt tidi ugat n oo tof tr bitd w B aderls hlup r v n ieithvironmen e ntohy..’resh, lon s tuzzina, b dim oes s bao o tetty funn h h l b h t waher ener ext y ft f ou ’erunn f heries a e poem was sgoouhr t ehw r. Whi hinn oldeveragky’veooe p l ohic r miniml , bund s t agenleil.t aurbrle i ei bjs prion osi e noher. This, I sy t p he hl k o nt wajs prioro kfa wo t beeten heaa e f-tstve e ano bl An old man wearing a slightly-too-large crux necklace passes by us as we return to our a y tats v whilst regalin a enda. This bar, b ro n old, seems like a good fit supThe Ivy s yt les itse rown-u , fu us co tura t d ade urtd mo g t es ar rld go by w ,e, everyone is an outsider.lf as “lf molioti-co lnttin eme tas engag ceent t for the t les i to b dose oe grow uxurio s co by us as we return to ourur mahile its oldness iish additional daily specials. conthrived, it’s a s flor them.o strangely co vn incing. We h ie suh uga eten we oyh was r r f conariily b l s, w tu gelen sweet k wal. Wle f thteber ext t s subjecatsmas BoB siuecva’aeurties at t we cost regalinith Bld tlenleitt b” urbrle i ls lik s iss li e a g s sru om th rdier (€9) made with Bld tlenleit b” urbr nono n overposs liky wpmen. lur in in ins aver ooe erdier (€9) m egalinh B f iullilei eso con rtii de , iat’ances als d bet g g or t fhimes”. Win courses, w t pro a y all know some people who can’t wait or whom it seems engagement The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie to be grown-up, f is designed to serve two to three people. The tabrle next td two or he life n rings and mortgages a e one an o us on t agenda. This bar, b ro n old, seems like a good fit *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. for them. *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. ask how it is, they’re delighted with their lives. “Perfect hangover cure,” they say, as they melt into a happy meat coma. I’m too excited by the menu to limit myself to Potager 7 Church St Skerries County Dublin *Almost Louth potager.ie *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. Rathmines has a lot going for it. Not least of all, the array of pubs on offer. The most remarkable thing about the variety of drinking emporia that dot the suburb is the fact that, despite all being spitting distance from one another, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its own. Depending on one’s taste or the particularities of what you’re looking for at any given moment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt for an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? Inexplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s nest of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied imbiberies is primed and ready to step in and fill that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart though, for better or worse, is the breadth of different niches that it aims to occupy. Rody Bolands first opened for business in ’ ba ere le i sli e ts on ty e menart, walinr ug hing t es ar rld go by w orrationer e as war” uuiu t r um ed m rtg th do the r t. ‘Ar seg otu go u ae an ry tthr. ads hrad in tearp, fol s roem iat s ce o gag s ov w The ther not ble thhin et ave a dr uquer S wrol st rega h B lld tleit b” urbon ts oldness is e o h Rody Bolands i nt waer ext ty fve noe Ihy iv d a col hilst wbith enougltiotn o l arny posi-t, i avin r y even foabley bw ’ Atnto ationded me m , s . I p um d fd w k ld g voy a raf va iemind whos wer” th v e wa ey Hbos ol the be es t o no cole chg tl il tuht t e auni o h enio ig a decent p ace fie ber ea emind whos wer velling individual alleviates her anxiety at amiliar surroundings by recourse to photoghy, engaging with her environment from the distance of the quotidian form; so too the n t ktai e a s e venera neit f beins pr ensiunnyule in cn w em wa g f ecotcwae tor a h h a n os o tt te barad of E BOLAND’S SWILenLSy t h t c en fbe’ d to h’ At t r f fts guestinpkanaifThl f egeo , w lf aees olf as “l em outiin uminlg bes eravt fua le Old S di e f l p ll foe p ax. r p sy earen do craf hiner! I s u Whn h wc ofle. Th ht Thdi iduy Mro aiur revor its guesw?’ At r f fiione t b-shlea en ys oi h n o t t.d bt t s a co o nt remin o o oee m m P pdweva J, t as pizza biut p bs ie i do ther g ab g ox e wa e s, w i ’h ’me r nematic imagination has surely, with the instituses over the years housing s, murder plots and the woerc en otplel. Thly fint The J t a s fyt pbace f y a rags,t se coce tahb-solealoloegroo, w gaar r auated in the hear d) ae peeokling nearbav-in voy ecen o tusinerld S essh f var-iale ns octio n tf craft bu tniinla ara mg orue plerhrat a sh ps burerur er oe, B y t vtid foh f f le Old S e fl t-lt has h , blem waeerhit, butnughiff of p – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulysses n one os cen tt p eloswd gs,’cGlee tne p ax. kerhi y Ke gi give way to a a pp acn imiclturae of a c irnridtle. Hfy’r d c dgers ts es b nce iat shinh fy’ Whlh le sadn hilt to po y t lo ry in to recit his, soem o e re ins ttiet t-ssyospt . Th qvy, ahur se J y Mornpl s. On ot r ar y t lay in te a pure fy, w n in iormd bs f lder (A2 size maa urer aun er o e s e ven t wander in tend of Elidgeeq, th t oh e der phuionts a n o , uneses ut hc hte a, wemenh flowhdi te f x p ways i t to srfy’aynd cl h w. Its esh w ollma g vFg ts ths, wes ovhe bwhes tglooble ch a een eac mbrbverle f the b e shna en h n y ch owbmf nt emind whos wer tuotload orf f Ph’e I l toey e a picture o b p ys iur diets. Ohse tt ye o an tes A en it tltel b a. Th hiens ae a purtie ole Thith thh s hf in le corb, unt dd b o eji ba enfys ot wan place t irrita ing it ips wthThe ther, teope oe Je thoeir phib dee e rh of dehebs a picltlure of a ca rdtath g it it on ohne e fa sio a tyotm Jo y sanot Las Recad wieing a little overhs ne a i le u o s elde wp k o kmr p hhin t ngs a ts osrienes, w of hi of his t-shirt reily t aea e thtias alt sn e us ov mahurrers unee, Bruece steaenoremenh floweer atnd ald aws e . Hleint in o f tin t a sh t of in wht. W t Thcholly Ma-pe s a co g o t a ss ot on, pvnioes nice tt oo rarn adif fys o , katle aend n x ut beuuer St o goiues Abb, Th t do tvhr w re y e c in a e yos, ma irbiet.’ ter very qhnes w en p mle un o eir p io es a pp acable sadnhalnesating it i ilac The t’ com o t p bs i of his t-se exc eat rtoads ‘uTh e a pinem o eroram tbe er e ut h htian adf Mullligan & Haines c e a orem tat- n weird how monks are allowed to drink, isn’t I ask Anton as we approach The Jolly Monk, newly renovated bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I Hotel. ‘I would be h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp acacitle sadn ats. Th ill ret t r ads ‘Th e a pat s urf hihinf his own, pr happy!’ It’s one of hi o f those ext reads ‘Those a poem olh h p happy’ hy e Neil M io s gio s y ta y to a . ‘I wt ai e o drinks,’ h a smi of hiey is holding ai y t Thci ily to r Seal oe o hp wahen t noe ao ur. The cinalt thlet st e w a en e tt y e g a ou wa ot s ecting liv nt nee eny ae suo o en ts vaou s guis nioeteing fe familoa . S r ating it iy, howevdanhin stery a r u h tt aThaonh d) a dge is u n wahen t as Ree anyw toer an p lly finf senio tiof the famo io uotload of fketr p s kiwtecv en o enpa e oe Jn tlhoru t e peo o n th s er ae ven oor les tder in tao hiohe a drink aiod rrf cralet. um a y ales fndor me. It was er uclee t n ooem was s s, s atrut a s rat oha nr t e f the bchrs, a ran ad teno t n nrd snerBs se qct tials atini gero t t ble nier od “ h.m tsine vys oith n h flovo h enhg’r minim o ned affiliat eeio bka , unedumin e mig oores t -io he b aaa d as s k an triof the famou n of the Thketcas R t t gs a neit t b er! Ios u hott The th t Tht ts a g v be walvy ub lblh, Th t aut mahes t efg oosh le chg ttep bry t e aus h ppy e of senio ig a dee, so ynceno ur rly w ll coosure coc hat? Pu e as werw. I plt, wats be r sit der in terd ond as sur ct nn ooem was s o so a mg oini glaso t t ae coaol, unliduntcr o eealg bcg aarounp” man emn n o ipe e Th Thd et hin t n ieitshowers av e n a enhdaner, t hin lde wes o bs iibeaps (t he be es t c n y a sen w e em. That leav- es McGarry’s, a f s t uihld iy H, bv t betkwlmin unly* p in in ar e pass aps brble co d b oaly tr anadr, w f f, wera rgesder in ta mahinx cc, bsinut be pod r h h s s. der in ta mat f Eleecausuer St ees mt b llk ihen thefe ae in ottssyst’ cofle. Th f spagur s s t y Mth ac - ier a nieu w o s en hno e exit, waving - h e b . Mt r oks me a’aeever en ts various guistins a e secrps bay in a grs, a e v oriyabp a loo sf t o f foetcah.wehten do craft b irufiftice it to sa s w en p hinle u yo eeir p mre o cer noitah its h togvs ubv’ert Thrlislht),t ehy ie I here’ax. r n io iefoly, flef thd a p wahlen tita e ah fh ty’ e in ou er ts es lonsyine Jt Th li y ben fi ace f mabsin h et u autiao be htah flo s lest s y’r Whdgerid sd coloer og eniodiy eose ok ilos nin o erait b ah ft te bered ohd a ad cla The buildines A eno e i ’h aer ita Ha Whdge iwst u ci bliy, auhb, Th t do thra Whtth wwofens aud coloerine Jy indi id f flv .t por a new ereor ts aps o e as w enuphilt, b pe ctto p” Ii, In a V’k id aiew?mfp rteic d wh o e exi orv nd h p g n rby iningav- oh y elv t p, s ynor a newy b bam d w iks me f .d m h-spnirts b r sit t, wa inith a h peaavsul t ye oe Jn tes An t y H tey m nes ht. ‘en t b n to ka d bt tf e fairer s th a h pf io of figance ah ctks might h f o ned afhnfi’liats Do sm Jaok ol f (b Therth ps b h itsin a bvere n hin lde wes on tig a Lae h n w y* p pu o p e s art o ec ot bh, Ie Ial the be t p t t th enioloer n t dire btereri (vebebly b ninnour aa ur scr robably by a ra n of va b f f e t l i Thove aeunio b lf a e res ctioe o keu wp t.o tvs res hoppybl e yo ve covterage aerw ed thappybl n ativhe t s hhe. Rathmines has a lot going for it. Not least of all, the array of pubs on offer. The most remarkable thing about the variety of drinking emporia that dot the suburb is the fact that, despite all being spitting distance from one another, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its own. Depending on one’s taste or the particularities of what you’re looking for at any given moment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt for an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? Inexplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s nest of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied imbiberies is primed and ready to step in and fill that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart though, for better or worse, is the breadth of different niches that it aims to occupy. Rody Bolands first opened for business in enas B en vale i u t t le cost with en ugl fced bhet f tvhe orom tr minima w, bst r iega styhe mr” uuit r um nd fhin be w ’orhaheir fieriro of c deeole. M ott nota a. This ba , b ro n old, seems like a good fi.t The I eg onio be gr s “l hf b’oo hhs t t seems enga le baenu. I plings a e ll conatstii dly b ly b ls acer thranwe y co v etnf red j. W pro a y al d the th e people who can’t wait whil ade wi g o u dim . Whi tle ilts oit t pess i l su opoood fierst ’ cllub meaning a sea whilst r t nt wa e rs pg at g ohich wae p r tonrs tedith enod bhet g y co v s uhich waam coan r o leir sigd, it’ o h n. ‘B’cen yenae poh e s s g aa ’t t The Ichy i ls tlra f thv hicth was rea co atstiiey b eg o fsougaem.n t i . Wa hing b, seemes h es. Thd fitub itself is spap sier s Isitb litdier (€9) made wilinh Bld tluimesot b efl hin r ht wa o tt te barad of Eueccaersdier (€9) made wit y even do cra hin etb ’y funnys up t.o t’r minimllh t urnopug t an e N . n io of fivks m nTho o s we exio o binieth a h ap u us contin eems engagement h n le be exi. I ply b in d fgs ag w euxurf, fiouxuror whom it sental cb letic a std exp, s . I pings a st r Chling ot agenl a. This ba t, bhi lioo a Lldn h ls i l s pu p rtor ers ituh, s emod b e a g pro a y all know someme ip o hle w ederersn’ erits b bl ben, anl know some peo s moo ca n-up, f r wh m it s agen mwatchin gage w une and t o on the life rino “ n begrudgingly acknowledge that since the trend took hold it is much easier to find genuinely healthier options in the fast food and food-onthe-go landscape, and that has its clear benefits. Nutbutter, which opened in Grand Canal Dock in late March, includes the hashtag #sexyhealthyfood on their Instagram bio. That particular hashtag makes me want to crush a ripe avocado with my bare hands in a hot rage, but they are an Irish-owned company and their interior looks delicious so my interest is piqued. The café is an offshoot of HQ Gastrobar right next door, and it was owner Paddy Hogan who hatched the plan to open this plant-based café. Hogan enlisted the skills of Executive Chef he I egrf the tlf a, with a h uxur o t m ien Clharlotte Quayll up a, sd rd to “ped mortgahg t es ar ld go b w . Thil n ohild bade werhigs, a fea. This b , born oldn e ts like a gooe p s, I slacy tlunap-ut w, ia ansor thranw it w so c tatil is tu e I eg t, watse g o hs cle , seeres,t, bd t e lunnind m rt*I mes agag esnr rld go by w egaef Kld t t b” urbrera ry overw ee mse f r d j t wa luenem The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie r umwad fhing t e woe one aura ve y on th ttele. Most notablbly, it’s home o s ranwelen swvy co oeincingerseys desn I h wcenith a healthy u The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie d tgs aegc. This i sts a diverse cliene life tem.g en sweetcing. Weys descend o inenl infl tself as “l p o n-u uio s contin eems engagemen eap, f r whom it sental dwatc oor a hoan tt tt fig v or t a esoim . W le ilts oild es a. This bp ohf aroe ond eight starter-sized plates and em. *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. ar, b ro n old, seems like a good fit There’s the option of a côte de boeuf, which der it a d when I lean over to 2013 and the Brasserie lost the star in 2014. That incarnation of the restaurant closed its doors in July 2015. Keelan Higgs, who has been at Locks since at least 2013, reopened as Locks 1 Windsor Terrace in September 2015, alongside co-Head Chef Conor O’Dowd. The new Locks is smart-casual; the charmem. The menu is ent tsieteam w uioos co tto sinak intog. Iten st ua y reliably li ev y an bli t e one a ytnd tse clst roourslien e, I was n a vorohay y a l kroh us wy convr n to t be exper - vy sroles i t, w h a heap, f lr wths tinent k in t wa’it e hil o “ g ht p ts, ar ld gppd t d tohore life or aegople tne oo their do he life ics p intrto t, we gr e t fenld’r wh vy styles i t v e or they. Thlas ace hicnh iis doeet k walles and p ilenty of snugs andugs and plump m oack e woun addi ouldn t fly back on P nell Square, not y convric b t A h I visit Chs s lo s o style barenuui d tvingd freuxur l u y a ra nt e coce tao o re.e e exi. I plt, wao “p bn t A inhtan e o Boxs svark ava e t r sty aue mr , Iuites, s rs t y tlh, btutt wim, iat ancein’ o er mevo w? o io ots av ded mee I or a new ts guests an pen t. Thleir sig-esme people whwy b ’nt waile to b bl d t tl’s a cio eto s ra ween sw incing hs and plenty of sn w some peo sin o cato ems u eir sigl d b s w th b ic ople wh g o u uw r”efres, beeg beess is oo stem.g l h b incing. W The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie at, buwa c *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. own-upfoovue goont ld S m ere ahretiotte Qhaty o s sg o ot nhing t e woug r d s i sele t b er! Itoep br bit he fair p old l b . Th a ls d bet e m etl in tvonervfawy mfg nont. ‘t Arogta urts be ta o pute It pr les i io of fig diiks mtce aha . Ct, waeg op t e ewest. ‘t Ar soe ou go y a sd b der in tanma ere eseheledier (€9) made w h Bolld tleit b” urbole ihr e d ewhee pe coatstis teecaence -o thf el h te b a bsecausuer Sttif crae philax.atinve gouns cohin ts oldnes t Th’r minima w, but regaling o u h es own-up uious contliinnemls en er s a . Thl know some people who can’t wa t les iuith a hatio - ow s f the Ber n ement e and t o on t . Tipperary way back in 1870s. For around 50 years, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, fuel, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands Tipperary way back in 1870s. For around 50 years, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, fuel, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands the traditional starter/main course approach, so my pal and I order five of the smaller plates to share. Our table is soon stuffed with plates of fish, meat and vegetables, food perfect for sharing and facilitating a catch-up chat. A plate of delicate tuna crudo (€12.50) is flavoured with a touch of orange, and layered with finely diced red and green chilli. A plate of charred broccoli (€8) is served with a delicious roasted almond hummus, and the hen’s egg is a crisp delight on the outside and a molten, runny joy on the inside. Both are front-runners for dinnertime favourites. The Toonsbridge Halloumi (€10) is nicely Dave Murray last year and the pair started 2018 with a research trip to Los Angeles in January, eating around the town and picking up inspiration. “As a classically trained chef,” Murray tells me, “my first thought was ‘how am I going to cook without butter?’ But it’s been a great opportunity to experiment and to be really creative.” The menu is writ large on the wall behind the service counter and it’s plant-based focussed but fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a Dexter beef tartare, served with harissa, bulgar wheat, and blobs of sumac yogurt, all served on lavash (€11), a crispy flatbread thought to have originated in Armenia, but with claims to Persian roots too. It’s a creative little snack with all of the parts working together to make a truly tasty mouthful. We also order a little bowl of ing maître d’/waiter is decked out in jeans and a subtly crisp shirt. It’s a simple way to quickly set the tone; this is more of a relaxed neighbourhood bistro than a Michelin-starred fine dining experience. There’s a lot of dude bros in this restaurant; I spot at least one man-bun in the kitchen. I read from various sources (well, commie, failing sources like The Guardian and The New York Times) that young folks are actually drinking less (and rutting less frequently) and bully for them. Theirs is the so-called ‘cautious generation’. As grey as the patrons are on this evening, Potager might just be the place for these joyless whelps. At certain moments during the meal I imagined that it might be easier to score a drink at mass – at least you would know at which point in proceedings that your whistle might be wetted. Our aperitif order – some martinis of various predilections, is nowhere to be found when the (excellent) bread service hits the table. We choke it down with the Cuinneog butter and whipped ricotta with lovage sauce vierge. Some ten minutes later we are informed by a callow young man that “we can’t make cocktails”. The gins and tonics that are to fill the void arrive after the amuses. These too are good – some cigars of rolled white beetroot with more beetroot and some startlingly green tapioca crackers with smoked cod’s roe. I would have enjoyed a glass w en sw emg. W en ae t eennt wait n’ . It’s ust ually reliably li elv ly and os fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. , seem ees. Thd fitub itself is spa- lements for t e s wap from the plating to the shagpile, but the service here w es h octioe ograpegslness” mapas oe mon-erarighu - in i e co u a an he N . h of va i le t h n tf craerft b ’ hit, b d o n e en o by b nd reeem walinit hit, but esoim . While i ks me asonTh e exironi o f onhofuxur e s o en a ul tep b ew e a. u er sny. Their sig- ra tul is tderrvonyld lad in k tphul e a e Ny stt rotsm atse g of transformations, as has this restaurant. Back when I was outside looking in, its owners were Claire and Richard Douglas, and had been since the ’80s. Sébastien Masi and his partner Kirsten Batt took over in 2010 and rebranded as Locks Brasserie. In 2013, Head Chef Rory Carville helped steer the team towards receiving a Michelin Star. Carville left the restaurant in the summer of ther hip nor trendy. You won’t find Neapolitan pizzas or craft cocktails with cutesy names on the menu. Wings and pitchers of Bavaria are the vibe here. One sunny evening, I decide to nip across for r on ts oldn verag ther hip nor trendy. You won’t find Neapolitan pizzas or craft cocktails with cutesy names on the menu. Wings and pitchers of Bavaria are the vibe here. One sunny evening, I decide to nip across for ioexipnt.ledt l t. McGarry’s is nei-s neiys , winieth a h tap ur us continent.a te um e tcwa hing tor a he world go by a, an l The food is a beautiful mix of unfussy andh intricate and tvhe beer garden. Its c fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. y, it’s home b me p nt a d keg w the neck. A dimin t’s deli-g. cate with Thein b is hts own arse. From t e regvery match ular m Joshua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no g roots attac e , sprinkled not exclusively so; there are options to add proteins including chicken, turkey, salmon, and beef, all sourced in Ireland. Behind the counter, staff are peeling and chopping butternut squash in the background while the rest of the team assemble heirloom tomato and avo salads (€9.95) and bowls of Rainbow Padthai (€12.95) to order. It’s the jackfruit tacos (€13.95) that win me - er hRESTAURANT cra atc s Considering its history of transience, perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature Considering its history of transience, Ryan has a background in the wholesale fish business and she seems to have retained her over. Jackfruit is sort of like an ugly mango and it’s blessed with the ability to soak up flavours and retain moisture. The tacos are served with Murray’s delicious cashew nut cream, red wine vinegar pickled onions and avocado tucked into soft white tortillas. Thanks to the vision of interior decorator Jill crubeen croauce pr batter. cheese. There are micro-greens a y g up t go a e caramel, caramelised banana and a chocolate mousse is really well balanced. It could have been far too heavy or far too sweet, but instead it’s just on the right side of decadently delicious. A charred peach and fig dessert with amaretto and vanilla ice cream (€8.50) is lovely, but feels a little too prematurely wintery, as the fruit has been poached in what tastes like the classic booze and spices mix so favoured by Christmas cooks. There may be some bumps to iron out, as L’Estrange of L’Estrange Design, Nutbutter is poised and ready to be ‘grammed. It’s millennial pink meets palm tree print and bamboo light shades; draping succulents hang overhead while leafy fronds cover corner crevasses from their pots; even the cutlery is rose gold. It’s very beautiful, and it elevates the atmosphere of what is essentially a counter service canteen. Poké, proteins bowls and peanut cacao balls could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved board special (€15 extra per person and it’s worth it). We get plates of slowly braised short rib and then a board of pink slices of the tenderloin fillet (aka the chateaubriand), topped with onion rings and golden, fluffy chips on the Nutbutter Forbes Street Grand Canal Dock Dublin 2 www.nutbutter.ie would be expected in the early days of a new business, but I don’t experience any on my visit. The staff are friendly and knowledgable, giving good tips on what to order and steering us away from over-ordering (we wanted to try everything), and the room is a pleasant space to be in. We grab a drink at the bar connected to the restaurant after dinner, watch the rain hit Grand Canal Dock, and think about how lovely this veranda and vista would be on a sunny evening. Even in poor weather, it’s still a beautiful, urban view. Our bill, which includes a glass of Montepulciano (€8.75) and a homemade hibiscus syrup with sparkling water drink called the Queen Medbh (€5), comes to a total of €90.75. Charlotte Quay has everything it needs to succeed: a great view, a talented chef, experienced staff leading the charge and an already loyal fanbase. All they need is for Dubliners to get over the psychological barrier of eating off the beaten track. This spot is worth seeking out. with their lovely lon would want to feed to somebody who loves you unconditionally enu, baby beetrown cre served salt-baked h d of smesq s wuiett inith tarra The name of the rally pig’s tro berutifuked do n tnounced in the Fr n tim s about them.nd circular discs h n (€3), with d s ered and blacakn with the Mic lf doyseed cucumber, a osed blobs of avocemain fuce. Ie evenin eans p ay s can ganor a ciga-rette break v eet aecials. Th Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 l tta er m NEW lStep Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 RESTAURANT NEW ia a p ale sin llosg y precise menu. h to ftial sup LOCATION IS QUAY Charlotte Quay , deli ered v of wine at this point. I can’t help but feel that Three courses are €28, werith subsBook Now!Book Now! the DNA of Chapter One is all o er the place, m e fph: (01) 537 5767ph: (01) 537 5767 ra aer speciroa n f therel (ald-be Dionas Taylors sillled unt lar d ed, with charr Th tio Thd ethhin t bt waer ext aav B x vaf t eqdier (€9) made with Bdl.leit bourbon t si ouws r e e mighicf fit b h flohe bts an. ‘ ws e n r en do crafhhinle t s pr b ’ unn ar em r tv Boxf t eqdier (€9) mofd ht bhohi - w ie; i ’tortario h en f k is a coe’ Ata e, rle ti ktinl i, L e exiing yin aaes, slehhh ahs The F s ieerb lt dolut r valrebld aw ie; irtto troks mn tnh . e Iel t o t A d ph tets pr bt r w’ t Thd to het ols tlhat s t. Th t cotnt ib o tcGarry’s i a g a liole otsive nyfp t.hich wae ps tl lt, bsti a er nal st te obg a li g ahe ograp f the bea aronutilracen thy b lhinng sneir sig t etig t. Mo; to sit n S h y o s w tohe “ve w e Letee fair ovpemhing s eith uans a ae nv o o’r minimlah t ut wiurth enou.ug etug ween sweet n to k unp t.o tvs reaaro p m f Eu va e teig eebade with Bdlt, bleitt bourbon d ewheads hvnny o unate y McGarry’s is home to a perfectlytl pleasant beer garden so I make a beeline for it with my pint in tow. En route, I pass a handful of pun ert s playing pool in the pub’s designated pool area, positioned smack bang between t e toilets e proximity to t e I am no Joyce scholar and have under my belt two failed attempts at getting all the way to the end of that one in which he wrote about the ‘ineluctible modality of the visible’, but I am struggling to put my finger on the what pleasant beer garden so I make a beeline for it with my pint in tow. En route, I pass a handful of punters playing pool in the pub’s designated pool area, positioned smack bang between the toilets and the beer garden. Its close proximity to the latter means players can go for a cigarette break mere feet away while still having a front-seat view of the would-be Dennis Taylors slugging it out inside. Handy! I plonk myself down at a repurposed keg where I remain for the evening. The pub is home to a restaurant known as The Joshua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no F r Forttuna elt ly McGarry’s is home to a perfec y ye con ac Tai h each othe from s a e y en f y) chice aio oy a ra nt remin o oneevsh-s. I p um d f,or auated in the heartt or var -wanmat f ElB’aeccausuer Sthax.urhonood bh e English lads’ ws Denm Jo y s m Thr es o e r t. ‘Ah h ttio, in 2015, tfhf tahirad em. That leav le tan n bt’ unnye Ihy i s a mf incralstasesle co , B f t e af frement-o s a cots gues-ts an h hioem was s s, b th n nd of EBaws ction os a f o n M frftliot b o pelde v one Iaut ma t. ‘en t y* po in aueense e auld lad in ysts, cat os, murmet yt Thlde wt plde vs, ws ol the be es t siu goe antce a ysts, c p s, m h ah lif lde w e wa a ertiof ture fa , h tt Th , thts es py finanse waaet croh ac weses trro co e peosofle. Tha ht The Jiot y Mrropa ev izza bo t a t icokacah.ey even do crafhhin o sine hy is tt aat if you e paol, b t w t t ohf invni pod coloa - e enov, s p yrnur rl-evww?. Mr -eane t n’s ane. e exi o-gvy Kelly’s are better asewso uomaanvy, ah lemlg a dee, s ynioe bo th, a rar tn. ‘ e hdae thad iats d h eno tes over tyfe yeaio byoload o rametey even do crafoshohe b hidg , t er s to urpr sing ce tm J l f (b Th th ps bein d p ool t ematic imae a a Whdger ts ese lblit put ll t cr e wsexts. ‘stI e’, Bref thr in ly, wf his od clt ver t m an , ah ct crh aci o-r some pev y a senste e prwood opf senio oig a de ug r plk is. On t r e ormuprs f lder (A2 size m abd Ce Thumin rrays o es, in a place ti h o a t yaioc he fa k, in oload of f d t f i r pt Iur w’iom lg yd afe fvr l e?) aass um d et thet danomeopovio u f tehe Thrames R a v re pereart o ou vb e?) aabso, B y tse migh th ntder in ters a ud ond ach es o er tt a sora m be?) a o l ys i f hih n n, pw a eein’ co t oaa hur scs ty ecenozer-- w ie; i t oa qg blih a n f f le Old S a endic maus Do spink ohramee o cer noeing a litetle otoupustt thosie O’Grady’s is curren - anopts anesbts td tthhad of foeess y evps b ble thing ak alit),h ve ps tthat s to wever ’ cog a on tyhm ht he Ial tes Cee rnagt p o co vt pg t d by t e faire auld lad in ao enh e tt yt The Jbili hmt l ugo vsf yy bes a io o i l th he yh et lrble co umin r ie migs, a rarth th n -ld S e bnd ach t en p i a S td tthehe Thk ’ Ths R ad w b ts s ters avr aws ta ht The Jinersochig a delht cr pro a t s arue perorar t ble nis un eref tw ad with i f (bn The d b ta a g a n tyvt pubs ilbs iy H dey mtden h of dehe e Qt yded m e ies’h aerweses t g o n y a sl bs. Rt ae co n hunl frlo h iraf t te ven t wano immteo h e a drink aiod rrf cralet. aayeses a o sf thk o os eas Rgehad with i t er exten vt Th ohiues Abf Olbl, Th tereut mweses tre you go le n uraterinw oys o a o immanoaasitt e a dr uquer Stlorteeax. at t d h asasyuminae mig t wan t waer extle t s prett hin o, b t ba h ha h enoug x N ll ps (t wso u t hin ogtin ’ t Th hickuer sex, e do tvher a es es tgtsible cht ai es tue e auni, w f (b Thd et hin tab d ph teten unn f Ot, totvy m inag nao convey a s eir lmee ot bps beinoler nlo ssg a li le o s u rhsye Is. B h t s ttoe s ld lad iniex, er s, arn e hatinble Old Stediy fe flawsn. ‘ e slewan f craft be egg tu dhiff of p – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulysses n on Iri h whi ke p ey bott les on dis i y b hind a cage – f th b as ers B fcit d l d bef re t h . Io. Th blishm ll ads ‘Those a poem o e s ow t edg o d ery tg b f r o r cite t, an t sa o e be nhdating it iro am tady basys’ coeten st deehade, fl the best p o co opder l past MVP and pe o sd Gáre thoeir p s, w tgt m nagt pt. ‘Dn t w rr wa er f iilll rt Th e B en thaee wnt a enle in oaseurn mom oenuaerabb y Hotvy m . Th blishmtlenlhy Ms t s, weh act anag at is a s w en p mats De tm Jao y s o esranhin h a e ossibnoenalece ao y,s is the lack of s tuot had of f mr pf (baced ethhin l r Thlr dh hinle ub A feir phos ana e ps ben to co g et , wc he a orement-io, lodikinaws uer S , b t btetk lmin cenpu o puy t e fairer sex, ing o l f sitio ma , unl ion h anhinorlde w - d a voha g a oabu rleosh a o ance a os ’ she ts guesemin td mlll p ce h o li s Dbf thh aakt hh.oc A f bs iy He I s arue perora ayt oa be?) aases f thd aturiliara b tnunc k o u bo sur p f (b cocl lips b h id pd ind ph old enst oss is the lack of t n hotograplit),plit), Whdg wtled co f suloaua ntlh a slovott po ets a co ce you strooev ter Hpo hd ld b t in an adfrtemev, st p ng v w o t rat ax. g ould ah li s Dthm J y swa tz P Ths R , wera reso immtao haa e a drink and rreelet. otrs hyalesing t etu- erureinood o t Thcinli y ben f ace f r ibmfgs, eminded m y t vt h enio oig a de p erele Oionwno f Eg oqtter u k k olb uminlg baaerera reso immtao haatve fle a drink and rreelet. utle ea y soetacah.nerhings an kboer! Iraerd bt pg tbs. Rors. a ron e mat in arteme, sen r a newnin or -ts and wh e er cen zer w ie; irt ts ane goi hm , Tht our tw en t e s ed aor ibmfgs, n tthunnhibe, b t betkw es t si nv y a s es As Enne Iuy The hem isr d’ s Cre le le co ou ec w r, w h my fs tte fl t lo a l er et versedumin hrrays oemenh flo t plde vlly toah.er aves, ats ur scroa sugelrploace fowy bed ot’ Appts awao on o ah-inan adfr y ev tfahld in tlloh di e fm he s ll hr valngar per a hy coo eme en fit ps, bo w?mf t l m r t y H eut m t. ‘en t y* po in u y l h cen ubebl-t nagt pe ysiu go a ae tuce aur 20s hang lly’s are better taodend a nin cGoy tf R thminut wive a wh en fur rly cb-uer i ie; i t f fts guesemin o o et td Pt, wa ap Ar a ner i ie; irton asv ded mev d P s,t, b gs a snlectv n ttetg a toep buinlit),eshe pa rapa sd iws a e ysie sou goel pee ts o f thld laad in ace f y a rags,on aisrd whos w e seg ing d phttg aty fuvlit),o tvu s thtto s to ive a wh b gs,mf ga n asv de es t e N y o v e d fumpga o otvy m heseAhos ceny a rah ttnvey a s eAhoslem ile ch tl ib s a cot ant r o k id at ib’ Atio of fipks mvs te a .en e ograp sgo’r minimtranu efur ioo o kvup p t.o tveads h oo. Their sig d eay’ul s ut h soaun er acrost b g ae ograup p to tve pa ron lid eth er acrg a little otos up ure y eunnins a cots gues-f thd wh e erh ast MVP and saun ’ rt d LED sc t The Ihy is tt aes a sh t’s a surpriising lde v ery t h l tg a gs at Heaot ldraogv’’s Cr taboo or a newo ie ce you s ooev den b ung a litrtle o er er ca boein h er than erro w e peeintood o at in an adf eme, sonion di e f a rb, untb , Bt ho te a o if f h i b f a ca rda . Hleinp to th otf the famoue, un h We prt t’ co p ys is. The bd ckMcGcearr . Thid a nin ps burle co d b ur s k oy slices mf engres, rares f htiot sl urf hi h ps b e w a en e tt ye o wa es t saee a ac ahsy. I e otpblit hm hs, w a a ys i f hi re in o aern, p w d o t Thch tiinl hinf hile fro ps bleeeas e t y th ie aa s tat crt ik i-- w mfor led copa ur se Johy Mh acs pnin ag o e p sim thha eeinots estat in a emeug it sauttrt k id awa gs,t-gs,ts aru e fe an t e tssyospe muan e J en th e wn a enle in oturn momaenuyaru enougoden to Olo n B pf frpesat-ion s. The bl rkMcGarry’’s anhinle ube t rlde wht oeir p s, wesa yd thmouotlight’ in curiliavs D m Jo y s behter very q ne g i lig iouickld af’ in cyf si ioay f the Thk older (A2 size m f invnisthdd by t t ai n ad Mu ligan & Haines apen io sea y to a g ao me a ppf s a le sadnhen t wa a t saee a ac s t-shir h lnlofo r s w en pnt y g ahin lde wt p- bs ihbn, b t mhut ba es t em is urn momen aru a s aut a srot of in ni t dd bue t of the fa site, une?) a ta s arut a ss own, pvrersteee , Bry thc e a orem tat- n e Thkt hs Re iinlg o e p rom thesystts estat in as t oug otio o der ooetcah.w ad with its h h ps burhur inh d o t in afn iouickld ayfurfiliavs De th lde v bn s Re le h y’t saee a wr nd clthern, p . Ied opbliy, a- enoug den den lo ur b f a c lpanys its. The bd ckasern m pts es blit hm h al ys i h y’ e in oasrin’ comuany, a se tareir phones led co ans, a-s t t creh act--a es t em is e den etkween t e ttetsda eop g a sou orlde vioe hut m, b t betkween t e h h hosie O’Grady’s is currenttost-ost– I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. ing t I am no Joyce scholar and have under my belt two failed attempts at getting all the way to the end of that one in which he wrote about the ‘ineluctible modality of the visible’, but I am struggling to put my finger on the what – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global horse-racing o screens. No c a Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global Ins et ad, there is a sm ttt was actua po s not thshma h of Pinter in and it wa day and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. tail menu clasi s. Unquess onablerursy rg e I aaluires yoyeplu t r to it. I m kta e a mef Jaent l notg ant this wil do sielims. Un ootiott aerurs mistak Squa een ab . Wi h i ke na ure o loycear day-drin mistaken ab to it. I ma e a men at l n n Dublin,iny wand i poure less sd ps spot is no Instead, th e ier s a smo d and th car usto lle h m rade-of ti ing the hhe harsh glare o horse-racing o screens. No chat oh t or cra avo avoiding eiding eye conttact w tking its nam up t, of cot p . liic. J t was w uplit, of cot pusurse.o T king its name f arsh glare of to boards inminluudin ers aovdouctmao eroag o carclf rc atterins ac utf ca ly jus lled roo idshile high-ceies mo hdbing oe omintsiomers avof li ioshi ile high-ceilinge Irisf the pub’s mtany televpsiollay behind a cage – r craic. Jusurseople rple res loluttelly Du c fair tt n’ por tcits, ngeon signage and old Df tthe sun a of relat tvray co e oh whiskey boi h thany teTHE HOME OFle ision act ptio s o day and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. i it is abougt e nhe lobb egutar h os o ses os, pheir coi eir cock of ta ur b re er aacenh u h e b ft mances t is a out ths t ature of Jtoycenaywoere oos, p ar performances Mullligan & Hoine a libes is h en mics fs hceryessin e ss tudents. D -s perhe enu c a ve an unquesd alf coin , it reqth of our local music happy!’ It’s one of thos hir h n es, ra e tlhat shine from the happy!’ It’s one of thos hir h n es, ra e tlhat shine from the er smoking in life, t at make ynt ne srotatte s o y qhen py n imicltach I was thes . Hfe wn ring on the terrace. ‘t m k Y ’t n engres, rare tlhat s ur . ‘I wiure o happy!’ It’s one o e ter side do ’ r en rd thmouotlight’ in cursive, une?) ab n imicltsh I was tna ht . H e b k ur eopomse t eir phones racee ynu’ e sohter verlighuicklur v b f a c ir esi s. Th ill rhet s t-shir chan o recit e y occ NUTBUTTER CITY LIMITS Nutbutter seats after smoking in lifh here tat mak Y ’ur lar ugh h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o mn imp acas ble sadn at seats after smoking in life, t at mak Y ’ur laug h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o mn imp acas ble sadn at ring on te, therrace. ‘ ring on the t ring on te, tha in a . ‘racee ynu e sohte s op tlight’ in cursive, under . ‘I wiure o of his t-se exc ea g of his t-se exc ea g race. ‘ gio s y ta y to an imicltsh I was tna hes . H e b k urn momentarf thos hir hily to re ose t oem o-e from t eh inted out in an n imicltsh I was tna hes . H e b k urn momentare w ace w ac dle le y at shinf hif re in otur . I omen sar s t t creh act-- Th PMAKINl Shelbourne Trinity Collin dinner, belhl htrin Thter Thl he ibb o dooasoor sepg covlin, bhe twnys t pp aps th e ynu e sohte s op t y qtuickl’ in cy si e, under t r ads ‘Th reos y occurt r ads ‘Th reos y occurs own, pr of his t-se exc i y tealnges, rare y occhine from the inted out in an ou r aeugo e sps folder (A2 size mayb der out how GARRY ONhe Pavilion Bar at Tr n y Collinege se hnh sndin ld ppest imlco th ugh er verg it is we ws w ethsys’ comtaanshm hnent creh act-- T e av on Bar a eople u GOOD SPORyTr at Thei iG A HtAotel gio s y ta y to ae. ‘I wli h I was thess. The back gio s y ta y to ae. ‘I wli h I was thess. The back SADDLE SUP The Horses H h hrumphrey’’s h pa py,’ he stops to say to me. ‘I wish I was that h pa py,’ he stops to say to me. ‘I wish I was that seats after smoking on the terrace. ‘You’re so seats after smoking on the terrace. ‘You’re so race. ‘ If you’re interested in food in Dublin, you’ve probably heard of the Bereen Brothers. That’s Marc and Conor, the siblings behind Dublin brunch and dinner stalwart Coppinger Row. Their latest venture, Charlotte Quay, is named after the block of the Grand Canal Dock that houses their restaurant and bar. The spot has previously been home to Mourne happy!’ It’s one of those exchanges, rarely occurhappy!’ It’s one of those exchanges, rarely occure you re so ter very quickly e you e sohter very quickly Stagag EIGHT OUND e 19e 19 The Horseshoe e s Hump Baoe Bar at The Shelbourne HiMti ES OF IuT n fh a tg v e to ootli a eg l Hotel thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association Mu ligan & Haines i npen mics fo e s ygt a tail m the bl im owve anf thles tiod moou ner lt y rude hesat o es yoyamenjust out tth ts groin d ceiline t ah d slo little di conra t. Th gr thte s little dis d o a t esgsinogr th s od me Bd alf coin , it ra , ju m defuirf P rlli cal m st out the nature of Joyceta h t tblin,king. The utce sun an’ p rto ra ts, neohinTHE HOME OF l we l as p would cost me to get inbto t y’) ateaks. A rili y com d th a n tions. I feel likd ’ old two birdug n The Ra imm diate insig bt h STEP INSIDE The Hideout b lent th f t e loe o pu h mastersd wai oer th gprm ropnd k nions. I fld old everabg’es. r s in uding reproom, w ns of thef theemed a d, is ona d f ccca e was m d rut o id-ter a se o d wae g reprpo ucropor lesin y ju t a mis m, w e af fvtlci e waact p e onss age a t wati h each other..roer m stat ltely, pl, plump Buck Mulligan and Haines, the otherwise unnamed English student who stays with Mulligan, this Dame Street bar occupies what was once Sweeney’s Mongrel, what was once Le Cirk, Mulligan and Haines, the otherwise unnamed English student who stays with Mulligan, this Dame Street bar occupies what was once Sweeney’s Mongrel, what was once Le Cirk, Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s eso Dublin’s Best B.Y.O.B pool hall. v sit co y t bv hces me to sng o Gtuinni h thn a nig 085-2357664 Is u s mttles on divp JAMESON et oaf one u e y ur too brief sumump Buck BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM inside. H eny! I plonk m helin star pendant heavy around here I r ado saor thuti e cuplet of potato soup s gr ugging iit out wn at a repurout be pug up iome te) with bacon pulls me back from full bloots ar ankiness. It is something that you with m h ticks of apple and blobs of so, rft goareg atdless of how y Featuring a dazzling array of things tao do, ou feel tteas cool and w, even to aughon oo vh I’zy, tenten a vah manner (potajay), but pulled-apf tt meat encas d in a cr pefoae, t s one trenc oarhis dish a milelio ther es bie is a prry b ll ohifonounced Fastesh feel to many of the dishes n. curateaubriand sharing A peanuWe caer par sfat the ched ried mullet in a sauce of its own making, Web exclusive content also., highly finessed, fêted with shavings of frozen buttermilk. Ms fresh and perfectly of the seaso, none more so than a dish of lightly t butt n’t resi it (€7.50) w th s lted I’m told that there’s no pickle brine for my douchey martini but the Negroni that replaces it works like popping a pacifier in a baby’s mouth. Another reason to shut TFU is a steak tartare that comes atop diminutive blue cheese sandwiches which have been steam-warmed. It’s a statement of intent. I’m a big fan of oysters, there’s little to compare with the experience of cold briny bivalves, tasting of oceanic sex, slipping and sliding down your gulliver. I’m a fan of cooked oysters too. Wiley’s Nashville hot oysters (a riff on the furiously hot fried chicken) are reason enough to come here. They are momentarily deep fried before being replaced in their shells with a sauce offering just a suggestion of sting. Sublime. Oyster mushrooms, parmesan fondue on sourdough toast is a pleasant thing to eat but can’t hold a candle to the previous delights. The dish I’d most looked forward to – pork hock, pickles, hot mustard, steamed buns is not on tonight, chef tells me that he’s not quite happy with it and that’s reason enough for me. It’s back on now and I will be back for it. Venison chilli is a deeply involving bowlful, profoundly savoury y while stie sltl ht ving a f l oft-seat view tennil €6) i’ e pl t . It looks reestaurant may not be proe eader, encriation Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com A SITE FOR GLAD E’t is sys. Aquisit rn d al s potter in a d o t for sm nt demokds and ch y In a neigd f ur oohood that ce weeee s s ess taid alntd I wou immeld g e ities; t poe tmar ueve been affdur befheir o rl b pacious w igig led like a fs sdi cttin o ta o bn th the a o h s oerm c f their ameno of wh pt it is n rader ikaar, to e a age olifier their tab ablis Sm en lli m S s t ’o t ot o h rtre r s a cer hin slicke diota. Add t ti my chpende ne had bhe do rhoa. Wer o j y more popiuta e cotnd t rader ft rr ft en ly int I m t admi into a mer tbiot of op a ini gle other. Si t estin asure o e waas ihi rtini gle other. Situ, te e warming and climate change, the winter months in Dublin would stretch interminably from August to April. As students we would go to any lengths to find shelter anywhere on campus that didn’t house a library. That meant drinking in the bowels of the Buttery Bar, just off Parliament Square. With its groined ceiling and sloppily poured pints of Guinness, it served a purpose and the occasional bout of listeria seemed a fair trade-off for the warmth and keenly priced beverages. It was with the onset of our too brief sumwarming aln goalimer e c h w lo k firs o in Dublin w So b ouStage 19’cs n w lo k firat camle establishment tnat e it.n h r p enll of the b ’s bur er ning relation didn’t haus asnd oparning. Th, aantiudenlo m i it at mets tt drin m i i e nhin bp witf Jh adj e Ht m sic college egu arly hosting jam un less o tby Bgre I aqlth of oaur loo ad lllts of G t the p ace f n D hi ppindowanco cer t ist a miess, it sh of Pinteres g e wa l bo linge I must admit to a measure of opportunism in my choice, we had been invited to join family at their table in The Saddle Room for dinner - and it seemed like a fitting moment to perform the old two birds, one stone manoeuvre. In theory I would get to the Shelbourne an hour before dinner, belly up to the bar and do my thing. It didn’t quite play like that – two family members were standing sentry in the vestibule when I revolved through the door at about 20 past six. So be it. Walking out of the white early-Summer light lo t e Hting jah e ber o roves a rnin . Th, ae s n gts. Dk-s perhe han painerd deplize tuo hat tf a my o pende next do, w ext do r t oice d ab t oovo reeaen invt te he wa os d dir cpice coo S or t” of The Riath rader fed direc es a “ p ace to lo diahe ven sa n tyt h g par d intteesloseg a toue assume it seemean t seem plos g mo v lic e diblisfhfed cockion o of what it i ae Ci ipef the sig estle in The Saddle R eom ft r dinn r ft r wouy y y sister reets Dao ta. Adver - an r establism less vumord the ci e s oer oer ose o se, lean towards silli m S vets Daky cenes evertines a “lar. Wster d ab h ts ayt “bac rounhr ’ h b” t t Shm s; H” of They’ ag T etter o seem Wet tao fortre t quit ne bkeer gadepa denthwo fami iny of G een t were s andinakes amiaving a lit t colouruovin emys th hs adorne bld sigi depa s n i , s revo ve gd tl h Frtom t ange h e wh otuld even be futh Stage 19’s n t low-s (€4.80) let (€4.80) leability te v t bmethine sp we. Thes d c l h ae is nht t tside o adore peaer gare tenadent eny tt entith a tfly ml, betf Guinn low-sta es amia enty t atle s loule wh p oahro e i hot to c, ta g ld s asst umineg th o g sentry in th h es r bili oh August to Akn hl ea hapg te d to h e ehi e tr o diffy-Sero t g re ah s spf th ts wv a a llegummer ligtion o o ft sd sbh ly into th n Dublin that, BIMM - The pub ry inolycealy hn Drueslin thaar prroves a Waprinl o i . Arintudenll of the b ’s bld g nin s p with adjacent music co hi g out oenee w ate wwroluurgeo t entny cetwa-ys. hi assumineg theroey were a sing oo my atten en o araln t y wer sbly fre tm en rs bmn campus that yghan glokoing int oc esp e t vauinn hmaserveo d a purpose. The e place for day-drink tt d, is esp e t vaude h m deep u to adjt sic o e t a u s w l hinm n signort een y prl like Im eeice e I’m ret h in e mine a singe to m ttorgioiven for ea hing ta p eed to h e tav arwo diffgeo t entrancewa-ys. e, BIMM - The Fugm t e ou oant ae we game, bst fit six.ll a gap. erro h the do r a nt camle establishm tio h in dens, b th wtith a q alit g bet t 20 pau h n ttle somethine s aceg to be desired. o c h e the game, b t fill a gap. oouu ld even be fy a ent nent that t eir sn ering holes of Baagraot St eg tetet, witeuate y lilkdens, bo h w h a q uli didn’ eghe gs a s ntgh btar anooasng coint ereoe t d heue osedly g thlic, oliveet to t. B toaps thaourne ah prime re f those pu g e g the sl Dpacioblih pre to the w nythin -llesde. ougies; th n qua y o ouses aded their o di h h ck ht inao t o the r s, o aewtn quat. Sl Wg Trader i inhr nn tuxifo s an men- s . Boet rald-wg cah n h oset of trhrtyiing a simiied d sig waugs, both b ugies, m the r it h-he s one mbanoeuvre. Ierms o ry et o h selo p b h m gunfrire, caen aose plwl n sltly ident war s a cer aot. S neg-es a h-h Thd ts n e Shwa ktad freouses ar e ess uet to fore loer bt tto per ew h t hlitlic hs more a ag au ” t t hin s og-es ascussreemen efi l haunt, uxilifr façy serff thade r hm h’ens; Haisitpt oy’s, fesky centre roiu d atindly siith yt Wits aroune er bness in t eir r ugm tefi l haunsin p’les of th o ers, for bge puy morefurbtiuhaerdun uo- th ove tkum d the cir bett e t ao rea y d t of a md btr tk walsl of th-e baae n y b he doe ‘h. Wphrr n g Te m t ref lurb sh rd e g ao t n ossumeporrt unism inu tu r ot d l “ e t o t h i hsiderabs nls on uc s sarsr-iner examBEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace S DRINKINT OUG St ON CLOUD York Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having operated as a bar since 1661, and the essentially untouched Victorian interior that you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Reilly in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention of its name elicits in many a knowing smile and an assurance that it’s one of the preeminent venues in town for dates that you don’t particularly want anyone you know stumbling across. The root of this association remains someSOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader On ap ideac wo umpe rey’s, I ki el n lim entra proa. Thrg St g d a em age, tow From tg time – a fache de From tg time – a fache de On ap ideac woe perennial r d-hairh b tlin b bly a bad rance way aboumpe rey’s, I ki elv y sew it wa nce way. As we proa. Thrg Staur way t n lim ent s probab. As wly a bad review Hut thhr lat one’s eyle is imm e s quickly m no thin h tminlalr us handpt t er ctiner to te , otr ely dra y a ac e c under i Rane evious guise a em a i e il s imm e clos v under i Rane evious guise a um one’s ey catrinar ot St ous w ig s a e reah gnd h hind g t y up to t t S De b bhy t le 19. Thitid do my thinan an caalte intsig t into tmite minoset oah t eir snugs, b g campainn mor ere i oo do r sinteps alcohd a. Itytve- g e se. in, shhbbt – tougies, m h o be desired s noe outside one wge tbin er mon sorgiven for ebra din re 19. Thiirta n mo h l estan aad-p n rgs a uag re t ortetwn s leinyg l lic, oe bein u arratuererd a wo shapposee r uoav t g betbuinnese pair aving a liat coio urs thg t aceen tese pair en I . The . s t y orawers eh an ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the n uglize tlictio king, tn onhere was n e o h bu ierathd ack o t e co siderablin fauch by aier, th wade appe cent as we v l r th a s s s ose h e peottlsly int huc t e two pu e bf the sigrnn a sen a s an ylisvlic hen afe minfd rded tl es a e b lt-lis-be ties temenknesg in tin s in tor hr thit;h the lens ne Rh g Tlito vy o s mg in tn a io o t e lop ak t blished co ktai e R aere mbs’ t a or worse, scussehd t er o o s mi arr e o S t verhrs d aoeugh the lens e exterhe ar eir a femain o e ese o tarly sly identied eir rtoaet;ed Rit, g et of ra o shotudet thdly p ace to loedian wa e ven sa n tyt hag par icu g ain d depicb he ane way oach ation was quickly m p veo s i ea’ackshta ay of o,ur situli B t t e e hinked o e 19, bhroer kd se rsnt ty of our situts prlcaagsh pub s e e; H bl hr, t s i ea’aclitkshta agesiest hinked oge 19, bhroer kd s th b ep-co suome s-e ual a irtaur way t ettuge uts n thild of th ts prlcaagsh pub s e e; H ade app ra ent as w lgicue venture ge,siest d review Hut thhr lat v y sew it was pro ag businesse ettug nowling b sines abo atio v , otr ely dra y ano thinr h tminalrenlyytured wd b k wall of the b yyar only with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from n was m ongs milling n was m ongs milling ade to ade to e ual attir d ass The Te y’ cen s umpgiveohe rsn li B lit e e e pertennial rsed-hair nuts n thild of th cen ss Thble Te y’hr hep-co some e with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from o s asf the f l inhe moment t t reflecsiocited in the thr inhe moment t t reflecsiocited in the thr outh Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 085-2357664 tDublin’s Best B.Y.O.B pool hall. a s BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 Locks 1 Windsor Terrace launch their Christmas lunch menu on Wednesday 2nd December. www.thehideout.ie (a potago a res at ura t kn hnown as The www.thehideout.ie A SITE FOR GLAD EYES Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. them included the best (strawberrty) sorbetor ing t ah t the eater A SITE FOR GLAD Elf on any w a d wi h ao-etatin-Dublin-before-yuou-die li tasnicles, baut it pvoure rovides mulliganandhaines.iet a s an t o aepper l room p position to te . mulliganandhaines.ietand prd peppertod f, oeinniou, b n, by mo h was in no prd par s, we wouol , oenioun, by mou ere e seus - Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. attenn a n Ition an places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Featuring a dazzling array of things tpo do,ioy? Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Harold’s Cross Rd, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W 01 406 6936 Harold’s Cross Rd, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W 01 406 6936 places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, ’ a lot of space herte. Suffice to say that one of Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Featuring a dazzling array of things tro do,s a soht tlid option. of al Il n’s unpretentiouks tg coos and reaskonable, the definition ingly detlicio n n McGarry’s 236-238 McGarry’s 236-238 delivered I’m forced to cut short the tableside conversation. The resulting intrusion results in some tepid food and a charge of €30 on the bill for a single glass (not mine) of wine. I baulked at a $26 pour of California Pinot the previous week in New York’s Union Square Café because I was forewarned of the cost. I’m told that a sommelier (hire) is imminent. He or she cannot arrive quickly enough. The food here is haute couture, the rest of it seriously off the peg. Those mains that languished before us didn’t quite live up to the smaller plates. The mussels accompanying a hake dish have been over-smoked (a point made by the chef himself during one of his increasingly jocular visits to the table) resulting in a dish that had been battered to death by a stout length of hickory. I have no doubt that the error will be amended. I’m a little too annoyed to care about the duck at this point (post wine spill) but I’m told that it was perfectly good. Desserts were well received but I don’t have about 6pm on Friday – peak after-work drinkabout 6pm on Friday – peak after-work drinkDrury Street’s latest arrival h, t e Rag Trader, at Drury Street’s latest arrival h, t e Rag Trader, at My companions and I darkened the door of My companions and I darkened the door of At least ten minutes after mains have beent hiesis nn tiroy’ nceaue imq d ts u e leaving h throwback though. One merely has to cast eye over the respectable selection of craft beers on offer to see that the folks running the show are in-tune to the desires of the modern patron. For the less adventurous pint drinker, your standard Guinness comes in at €4.70, pretty reasonable for a town pint. Like its avian namesake, The Swan is a creature of two sides: its sophisticated, historical bar area being the white, elegant, public portion of its avian counterpart, while the concealed, darker and nigh lawless area down the back represents the little webbed feet going ninety below the water. One might appear more impressive, but it’d be nothing without the other doing the dirty work. viding. The chef himself subsequently spills the beans on this, if that’s not a food metaphor too far. Or even if it is. At this point I make the mistake of pointing out to one of the floor staff that the wine list really needs more scope by the glass. atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping tlest bv t? Wt scta York Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having operated as a bar since 1661, and the essentially untouched Victorian interior that you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Reilly in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention of its name elicits in many a knowing smile and an assurance that it’s one of the preeminent venues in town for dates that you don’t particularly want anyone you know stumbling across. The root of this association remains someatmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping thro bw ack though. On r iog less, we sotmeone, so in neeaves s ra suns m the show are in-tune t a e nowoug e ton tn s, m t d o d in Dtiol-lifioh a’n th’sh Ry to R h cv h o b io o y co rapraw eye over the respec a le s R r a er e vire b re sour proper ceract r ddericd o et o R u cs noctioesae dealicio t beers on offer to see t klaxodo Rolut iilevarlint d tctio u s eas er. ue wen On co t b as a brtkinles l l I die C d of G h e deco modern patron. For t e les s rbj k by a bg a ho t puinnlace fgsm two sides: its sophistic G p tl Rohic s a pang o e 19 i oale h lcoint. Wh genie All Rth s a pang oge 19 i y o ny olcoin y to being the white, elega fla b hind it? Mo left in twa s I p ref itsw avian counterpart, w A Pd cois face is fa zen inuml ps. M no a r d discr f hl n oiro up ue impruosps. M no a rh and nigh lawless a e A Pdy’s face is f lzen iny girler a’ ictn uregs oeet yo o e w ohe bpuesqk repre-side. Fiohaet.l urprhice tised. R - sents the little webbed f are dring ninetd Iu’m less t ralln s in y hy tled b t a btllosha l Cr the water. One might appear moare imhin tsit id tnk wanlllm attd a vcenet t ter tly a l a vbs ar i,f cl Cr tle gets to t e s atgle th d it but it’d be nothing wHumphrey’sith u Der ice gn a ence or the dirt Humphrey’s lov aks goorom asd-in qualita ur The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 y work. 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 The Horseshoe Bar at The Horseshoe Bar at The Pavillion Bar The Pavillion Bar The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie Stage 19 and unh by m r a do in a coit acle of lumes no lot g s n hick drap rrem d e o f hl hi l o d o t rtios c walleinke dra Stage 19 an de g t er t e sh t. I pick uhiak lica jn e s nitary m r mife i y toor t n s less.) A per formed, deaptains olcidedf indrotry b p er a oscen u less.) As I f Braer antioelin le o ink oh, I delcide ticrn t ns. ts fl , bo h co kt iar tk lf h e i e tet goo pull d thinnd If t’m less t rgn s, th g t t the m nfts. A lik ogaeir loft a tty c enuooraunatelyhe t p o that cou nd de t osiderh s the men fu col s iisists of g s the men o uen f gin as R ransg esrider t e-milll bavr bio s ennie immh di td cia ee in this pletaceble the m Uis be loorkoing forward to an encore. t og dissi acioer welf bacld blf bd kli u or una e ye i , booth cockt iar ter a coupacttleerh) fall en . Unkli e ff tk oh scenes depic innour-p tionpowthat cou o l shobr nsidere centtfd oothdlerimorld . Rar llegdere li,p a ta s aninlys pa tt erun erowwell a surreps, bur ers, as lid s e t stat y a exper sttice wits ttous ‘S p famtill rsi h cg the roost gu a h exper s p , its t hat the Pav w g tes on a p stvattorilsy b in s st les ime I chautt re thick wio G h thess (€5.40), which viisit cony the time I cha t e t the heinh d ummi h cies’ o n a prel jre t’iou n biine t pecia o s ick w tuinn e p ht like darhib bly tas ldn’nit want to b acon an s pe syrup urgers, ahe base of concerts) i sorse e sy u y en s a er Ser khe roost gustviouisl ien ll, iienillce wle titaste is sp f ulina room pie. It won’t flinl. d itself on an a in-D b This is a tr y mund the necessary sustenance. connections. This is top drawer stuff. A mousse of Cashel blue cheese over a celery and apple jelly divides the table but I know better. An octopus dish has clean ozone tang but also the telltale woolly texture that comes from sousRody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd Rody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd Locks 1 Windsor Terrace 1 Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8 01-4163655 locksrestaurant.ie places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Featuring a dazzling array of things to do,uce (adding Web exclusive conhtent also.xample in the mullet dish, n their owor no other rally we Web exclusive cnontent also. um sa v h , f foams often serve to distance one frtom theirt essences - the taste bd a condensed pl Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION Web exclusive content also. ness owned by the Kirwan brothers, the food offering at Nutbutter is best enjoyed when taken outside of the context of “clean eating.” It’s healthy food that tastes good and happens to be mostly plant-based, sometimes raw, and occasionally sprinkled in goji berries. I like Murray’s approach when he explains that he doesn’t think of plantbased food as a lifestyle choice or a restrictive diet. “We want our menu to be accessible to everyone and to add to the choice of what’s on offer elsewhere,” he says. “One night you might eat Italian at home, the next you might have a Thaiinspired meal. The third evening you might come out to Nutbutter for a plant-based dinner.” That sounds like a balance that I can get behind. LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION place refers to a kitchen garden, but a formal Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie This restaurant maver Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Victorian garden is more appropriate, with nature bent to the prissy will of the designer. Right now, I’d prefer to wander through an unkempt meadow of wildflowers, or just hunker down in my concrete jungle. ADVANCED PICOSURE® w That €c and rich, shot through with the fresh heat of jalapeños and balanced with gouts of cooling sour cream. The accompanying cornbread is the best I’ve had outside its native country. If it’s not on the menu you should petition for it. The dish that many will gravitate to is, of course, the fried chicken. They would be right to do so. Right now it is hands down the best in town. Perfectly moist thigh meat encased in a salty, spicy coating. The biscuit is perfect, the corn slaw more than an afterthought. Go get it. Their banana split is a dessert to put a smile on your face as it puts a notch on your belt. At least two of our party are instantly infantilised. Service is charming throughout and it’s immediately apparent that the floor manager runs a tight ship. The food here describes itself modestly but it could justify much bolder claims. I’d give a joint of my right pinkie for a restaurant of such quality in my manor. For the lucky denizens of D7, this is all the neighbourhood restaurant they will ever need. The rest of us will be hard pressed to find a better reason to cross the river. This is a North Star to follow. the necessary sustenance. I stay in t cats trhe last o ch tu y dit of the ev side. I c un hut i by exhibiting style and substance. In the kitchen, jars of fermented cabbage are on their way to becoming kimchi for the chilli, lime and tamarind rice bowl (€7.50). The bread used for their toast is a deliciously thick wedge of sweet brown bread made for Nutbutter by Lumney’s Bread in Inchicore. Their Nutella-style cacao and hazelnut spread (€3.50 served on toast with banana, bee pollen – I know – and honey) and almond butters are all made by Murray’s team in the kitchen. Similarly to Sprout & Co, the plant-based busiplaces to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. I’ve ever been arheir worries, even tem orar palate fatigue begins to insinuate itself quite Web exclusive content also. to iearing. The profusion of g forgets t ound. With this kind of food, ro ab bly An apple tart on a cr sfacebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ Web exclusive content also.y circle of puff pastry early on, the barri w th salt c raag me relentless refinement becomes wts origins while delivering a flels and not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. Is it worth crossing the bridge f lr? P i p Tomato wot er €4 to t e menu) are too intense o is jellified fn but work reeason than it is possibll as a mouthf l. Ou le ur bill, to do so. hich in ludes two b55 menu buys you a lot of ftla- n vour and a lot ofos, comes to €104, excluding tip. excels at producing fussed-oy have gone through a food but it is for me a restaurant that engenders respect rather than affection. The name of the The elements in the chocola e t rt wi h stout ice cream a uds are at second remo e. anater or e ADVANCED PICOSURE®ottles of still wa er a d two macchi ta technique from a kitchen that lot but it’s still a beautiful room over-looking the canal, with really lovely food and service. It doesn’t appear that this team is chasing a Michelin star. Nonetheless, it’s certainly still a treat to eat there. responsibility to be all things to all men when they operate in relative geographical isolation, it all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Dublin that makes you feel like you’re having a pint in Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps this curious unDublin quality is the very thing that attracts much of their clientele. Having recently visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs would be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin to a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style bar/ restaurant – useful for both family dining and unavoidable work drinks. This dubious distinction alone assures Rody’s position within the Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW responsibility to be all things to all men when they operate in relative geographical isolation, it all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Dublin that makes you feel like you’re having a pint in Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps this curious unDublin quality is the very thing that attracts much of their clientele. Having recently visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs would be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin to a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style bar/ restaurant – useful for both family dining and unavoidable work drinks. This dubious distinction alone assures Rody’s position within the Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW e ofl and praline ice cream stays true air of finesse. facebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ Is it worth crossing the bridge for? Probably and its responsibility to both sell lasagne and chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday and Saturday clearly rank highly on the management’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain and its responsibility to both sell lasagne and chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday and Saturday clearly rank highly on the management’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain away e lif less pos of ‘i ’s grand lifeless post-Angelue ort r b rrns isn o Itt’ ur urin tious and rea e f bled she defini - of ‘it’s gra d, sure.’’d comf , much likt-A ge th lhs, McGa ry’s i s unpreten us a, sure. looks good in a functional way. The ‘interesting’ beers on tap have been exhausted by the thirsty horde so we opt for a brace of gelid Budvar bottles and drink them outside with gassy relish. Life is good. It should be noted also that the Pav has long been a destination for the bag ‘o cans cognoscenti and the operators will now accommodate this fine tradition. After a couple more rounds we fork out a tenner for a four-pack of Tyskie and it goes down just fine. As college opens its gates ever wider to tourists (flocking to see ‘the Star Wars library’) and civilians (with the heinous ‘Summer Series’ of concerts) it’s possible that the Pav will come to feel just that bit less special, but right now, on a night like this, we wouldn’t want to be anywhere else. position to te their lead from Ulysses ideals and characters – each one bolder than the next.” Curiously, the menu doesn’t list the ingredients of each cocktail, instead providing a somewhat bewildering and hyperbolic description of the sensations you might expect to endure while drinking it. I plump, stately-ily, for The Big Buck, a “wild ary m ini. Rey Cs tiofeed sli our e r hinly licokm in Thte F p s wson at colps oy dieco, t ke ds at d ca Aturte et g t drawmur Slin fs? Oneao gos Nley dieco, t e its avian namesa ek , Th Th r y neet’ s sefoi agorts jy (ah, whiih th di t l m br gen, hi Thi Th dere il b’m in The F, Se ampve s €4.70, pretty reaso a thtaos lan or rse sooov le t oper (and proo m bram b loiohs hy’ e se r p drinker, your stan ard Gr is a lotg atgaes in at rer ad vito who pett t avrepimahilnt hume os lrane oa g movrerr r eaf g udgn eps und awara d w comntginer a dinlint th e liaqouindinlet drgest d in prepimario pyw comnginpeplin g a er o th y t k by’ f €20 I codeun surorarg a y expacorat tl lies warice taes o axh ry, bevwa let weg a rhh ur pr sper ce at ta tnn) buunninem tt , prevt er unr m a e noen kl ee etctio y cenvld tahe bulos b’m a nice co p en de h e decowatintn ae m aesry hag t aa os a e b o red the doe space im, detbhueica. I llin bletr tfer anp pt a’s ftiudderi et s t e sld By (st I cre soud the dosposa p e etvd th t’ p necohno-sn temt etrov ede. As t emi d wd ait’m drinkd ochtaio mansy g H bg inert waers thoasou A dlerace in the pas ace tp n ahem s a b i t a i tiot ma em os tt setme m t h mherer e nes ig srllmer us-e necio th ic tte p ero e ac o p in size atg oodt oe Cy . As tio y sesen op aesrhvrn etn t ae inaroinng ou o ptt sr e crttrh d h daded th r n ovevareelehhn oe deuinnessi-abs lebs , wt rod tic es f vah cllod o huasly hemy hrusepkanion m, wea es eh new cits, whtir. Thtosd alless, di he R tetn) b t al Is toun gebsis, sieie or a dine b e a se o e w llle p evcu e o h g pr sss, siwe wcppventh a ret pe b rr un n wa o yougi e b d o h , do r Sice t hy a brior thd sqos r S strbjuc ts ado o be fuer unremarnprale ment ianen tehe r e desirroerses aw o t eir closurn, wa d cur ve t ir n b t p tc e ace nich kerho comssroao ar roopm.l ade) r a tl awtudrt u s ims ceter ts jeincenhlor iossroiotar roodim. le fext I co ld gt. Lliet a cy low-budget bts hp eninwe walndre tlh t her rt t rape ots, tue so ed in lraeret bts hrpeaeninw htext I co n her f e w-b drt t o f pin p d Rodo, blp) fks r it al ags toun s ad g oin ior t ue wa l space no their lead from Ulysses ideals and characters – each one bolder than the next.” Curiously, the menu doesn’t list the ingredients of each cocktail, instead providing a somewhat bewildering and hyperbolic description of the sensations you might expect to endure while drinking it. I plump, stately-ily, for The Big Buck, a “wild tles a pre in dr s tahaini in t dhurte re M&H co. ktt silne waurb o “ k yoles. He od n t likl a bcan oraals mig e so ag d loioa e Sesn is a cro so eano nt, pnelic pt. A inught rep f th fubks. She in o r le thneks. She i e ws w lefpon me ae couin f ut te wosr k ao see. o lot g s nirler a’ ictn uregs oeet yorror e Thporeey nes as spquitsid lond lkvs o f hld G bt s d iesor e i Moll , Se aers? One tl um le sig, he ure M&H co ta s c au er ndh eaed eteazee m caaratn ad, hn’es cecen t se so . m brs htss hnals migrahis im t y (a d l vh tthpp esran aras e rs les. Hiar d nin ra loiothl aty’u rtichlt coan ton acqe oed woaper y mg thaat ot s h nats, toon tr eaf g h, w s immeoa er y mg tlharteeze e p ace fgsh a rs g ah re a sroun . T se l hor pratra p ess co nt co l hd in la er y scrase fd alnar pdrrae t-r ay p ogs og of t lo e ff bf ml dies s ead. Alead uptn hsa t c tur in acd seir clos oy sizeld curee L ratu eae s prr neue old ry bwan tbld redetain s on, a t tn tn s huuinetaaree an e ment ihtion t e bsil e w inin h e, mostly bwaee an s) leoor gtion, ra swuce ets adorrow inth in rh herf €20 I cohdeuny co epkanions wasus oo a pngs orouvsvas nao, one o hueen y’s prouss pnh-aps t e o y s rut th t into cor is a long atgang mort p nak, so we w ce fh t in o co petp) f em tvah ats o us dies s aahbwletd up t t in rh f va e t, prevt e ool d o y size e f On cor (a s’t andie Cles b’f qa s eaderesus slaniowt ih’e bn t wes a ts of bt I o derd in Dlle ss ls was en , on old reoaosuson tbhl le saimly expl-lifeon t , do in . Ons) le ce t ir ioh f m o m ubs saen wuruinne rac ne L acqueresse ate wie ote n heer fe lika , s l showd w wa l s ti ainf pld get a cy lo t, pt oper (ahd proo s the sigynea dn in tl y lick a r a a inughuorepeats u e leavwa s I pld rhe drink ao see. in a cotesle o,f lpruoses n y g ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one a tre dr, thkine r t o w to f ttingly, t e t out tcea Thhy hn ae tence o o aract ace u s owy th fo d out. A ea d er o pulled the drape a ouradeu nceavbses e ct her oea, an anempp rh omou nth d it t the l arader a Btresd thrac eream anp recen y a ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one o sweet ag no sidepace dott d with t bles that o ov conceat he faceglift, tk d. The b rm, or m nythin o unrem ke sp f s phi et ined anl o erwn f , liven imagined pt. In k etze s. ith the beferf dras u shione opt fohr a b oeir asrace of gelid Budy-h-var botld fa hiodictned fbleb ” whit fem ou srtey coa cocar m playing fum. I. Sphets his s ea At ter dinner, I returfaces haue be s. y teree tle h After dinner, I return and get a serviceable ooer ice gd in a f ar eun tio. Th oas r ic n ga unff s u drah s a di h of mini yast.e perep g win l o erwn fs a di h of minia ur ld faith Kinder eggs, t s o roap have b een exhar st een li htticeadbhirsty o worde so wed for €14 – is et fcialts like a happ ing Uhnp ainr our other pa rtl highso thy osr e P-av e n lotete s t e paraa faced cg Ud caia, which pr mitn f aons, two pfucenntion… a drinkk oh, I dee.cide to co su” lt Uists. A be lotokoing forward to atn encore.t h od unsd drdick thleaor €14 – iskeeels like a happn, whi s g hanio a ets hi a inas loog bteen a destuoarty braoa s t one a on thli d s I’fm fe lin le of t Ly compad hn sinning its wld b ttahll highher brlely ohderh taying fy componioe foou t er paa roneld als, ter b ucetin nal aftrepe venueaanit” w tside with gahsy rn, wwarles ish. le deal after thbt s ur o hs s tini. Ray Cha lles ider re l shor t Hf their lo y c w g di sie otvhnp wounacs wt oor r eringie aad iher , dr er fingly sw h o h cogecd a coi anp d thn… a dr ired lo king A ro ow acco” t m. Uttnrlike its namf t ae b ls (€9.50 eke t o s a ser lereh) fall es do kah a ictinldld a. Ra d plo ttto a, which pusmis face e sppipace a e o vdint oses “r tes “a ste bag ‘ecnt yaa -ssed f tkiispf idpraying a e o o cthli er’m fee t g pece o f idy lic pmerost certa nfd e tun u con in and t no t e pof-th er der wh t i es as surrepttittiounes eraun-osion. I won ts (fr bftaer draes asg ld be con hrtuoga t d oes depler f tr a fd arpa auc ery, dr w inus h gee I havg aroun und tine totp o cesh a , i erfffe ier t H ts namesa eennaimos a and debneet to t un t thizzar py ends at tn wou s, b t me t t t ossib aste is sh damtill rs linakes o T ayskle couc t gy eun n js s l y sw et tf rhe pkardt wtagererins coe to slip a p l onts gat d t ver w f-the-mider whact it inin u l o si ets of r sgresint wh e I h e t t ious Rennie immediatonn. I w i l baloa kiing r ert finer y re ovh , a , i er f s a sacttk of s swgogr. Ag a o aks. A rla s. Wor e tizzae ‘the Star W nd s a f t e in t s pegarn ltta . ho se ld cos gd o g he batsee of the g ass. Wa . t macon an l un-osio o tourlsely after draining ah v hi s (with This is a truly mundane bar fl voured with a u lin-before-you-die listicles, but it provides ie. It won’t f lind itseYEShat-t e anywh d m. he bar fly wh t-to-eatdash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cocktails. I stay in the bhe beer garden for two pints and cat’ h thle las ine. Th eninaYES e wlhile regula nr d delicio s, t u seaso e aegu rs potter in and oat for smo es aakes anl of mld chats.ats. eighbhbourh eer garden for two pints and v f the evenings ra o ex l th e y 11/11/2015 10:08 ocus. Ad tll of than f 11/11/2015 10:0811/11/2015 10:08 e meg’s rays. Alll the while,, hat can feek’l a li le ses me dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cocktails. izzas. I order th was in n v ces me tl, bng ig t now, oess (€5.40), which obably tasted feni in , b t m e pizzas. I order ut d musho aret intraro that stnt e gegl sretacebsle u ill come to fee ust toart y wall, the rest of the space dotted with tables that gradually thin the closer one gets to the stage. Despite the facelift, the space has retained an unshowy, lived-in quality. In keeping with the easter theme many surfaces have been littered with Kinder eggs, their associated playthings dotting the venue. I pick up a replica jeep dwarfed by my thumb. Spinning its wheels the parallels to the space are obvious, both small yet perfectly formed, decidedly fit for purpose. Bravo, Stage 19, this patron will most certainly with these criticisms since the wholly phoned in nature of what Humphrey’s does implies the management’s comfort in resigning themselves to a position on the second tier, removed from both the limelight and its associated scrutiny. For many, they are simply a fallback when Smyth’s is full, and there is nothing particularly wrong with that. Frankly, despite their shortcomings, and depending on the intensity of one’s misanthropy; it’s probably still the best of a bad bunch in the locality. Faint praise indeed. with these criticisms since the wholly phoned in nature of what Humphrey’s does implies the management’s comfort in resigning themselves to a position on the second tier, removed from both the limelight and its associated scrutiny. For many, they are simply a fallback when Smyth’s is full, and there is nothing particularly wrong with that. Frankly, despite their shortcomings, and depending on the intensity of one’s misanthropy; it’s probably still the best of a bad bunch in the locality. Faint praise indeed. le s c ert in ting h s we wr erkpon me ae couut te wosr o sweet aleg not a blan g co le ol der a B ing co ceaes p eloe s k wao fohget.urprisedapt to ounding Thh con e ora e tuhr s o ae p ace ud a v n e o her doin aesphinyt ite to unrema hef ch e p , charm, orermo .u n er, cha nd b w t . Fitting y e, an attem . Rp-k draounding g at all with a veneer od ace h arm n ga e y s er theme many s urn a d get a serv n in y be ahw pr arve The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com e way to hi g at all with a vcene naf sop ysticat n f n tm asn imagined ptast.e p etzeld b er ol war. Thio mtely n v e b st aation ecd a co page 19, thies ts pa ron wi l m porn toions.mo olrs wmer or the f bs of inio s, bioh sm ll y tte of ide - y fit fuosr pur os eratyllic pill no co urers li iess li ieso vo, Stug pecir d looking A ro oa in yolurhid the tradif the bion. As (€9.50 ele m y g aat one a o a se picattio sul in hatet perf idel n p a repy concocep d tioy-h hile wo p t trs e ed playthings dotour a ma e ‘in eresting’ ic ls aln intquisitiur Sero go g ow Ye rrk. Thi esooeticarey dra era o am en meef h voy d nintg th s wsoe wag ow Yo rrk. This or thhld r e dr ld tway or th sesi t hiinld tway d di oni is de . W scrni is deem. Wr d e ach-ad vih t. T . Onill h acora e g anont, pet draps unowa ra o s ur n dnh’ rahte iso coat cn wame on shlrea atery f sh le h c ps oiahl ee. la ery wa tini in ta ur eros euvi t like tlcahi silne ert?ainaa yhreagf sho ame tum s N n r hlusatn e tain was imm cart. Wh s claim tk dta e en me n rer nah e uern st m b ade) s o y) refurbed at co.uldy) refim to “ k vey t l sh o pet h ofe pve to pnesume ps thadnlowtcaiusch ofd in p e t - res er , wad redetain h l lies aoor g l - h leudder g tls aaref. The fr af qualicio ts (€5.30 ader hes . u e aanurae ofarso e err ttin y (st I cr d throun e ereroe n t e eve o fro -e prt r’ogw cit les o cakirosseacoun p . W e an n. a s ur si-abs . Ae w n.h a ur f timms Gength ledm tu, ns , naot nal Disese ory ty b s frs left t e pr e eroy ge oh a g cot y cen r dere fsem a nice couble n d th t’ inaded te lecir (a s g a re bd of G t . W rateni t as is oin s hra, h oun hht of se space ime wa’ fith a eser t t skiro re, somewo maueicea. Ipaces, p sp ff p d Mike (td s mes o an t y ann ugth le azzle an t f ply aet h ‘uf. Thiid Ms slthy’. This mwicld als tkey’ repe sami in size ate wa s coaugynd pnpesio yg thp wa toaesg paspte t h a ue o a nao fpe M&H co kt iith h t s hh a dt leghimisin va oder o ad v ue ts f ca t der o d v waedy’ loeration wle Hy in keep o o co ao nld bhe dcere yos. Iune wV “cae w hich m r cag t w h thd btre dir in azy J hintgs) Il’ace is made okt os, stai s (aod mt on mos an dehed hhlders.m ss oypce g oerbg of a cl y, ng, tat migertet ot oth t td whe pt waomnhin le f a cle mif tic licenoy in an deed h lders.s o ce oletion olhinl f off-kif tlhe fact t y md b t tuh lner o orulin e came tn thnd hars lo bs p E as t tde 10 ohf Ul ade oobe w te b n inesd t h an o ara o sind dero y – be sahty, desicc n b t tlin Bg po iasures ous ra e t tf exhahatsitte r tim ein en lys mmm, te diloh, a nublin Brt tad Ct ht t oer v tim eing t , desiccaay p rs lo urofmrpah enues ma- y the e ureaken on mtine n o i a ompaer vt t iasitteh-e ks, um hrade o he n o tted o tnye sh hues may s rs epcr et re m e t s lo hw drandwer y Sho ot der E tisem in Dubflin be bco ing l, ther y m hle a ortp vaf of babe ague rr a oumpwas ineimutin thi tl s ths enlemtion, unm t j r de y v mo er eeml n bb, iio l lunce tceirvte w pererer e w hrey’p t h e t sara lelea en o e ed be s sure y a mkeot inc tlestebt? W ts sureen thne b k o et o c en t nhourrenep p g a bs, i s h d ‘dir h H bgoa er aspu a h a ts “plinld hlie es t intd a cits’ts hardtre a erith a nise Hs tnens t in quiet coay se d ntttran, unmo-t hts a jnnt sn waenue thito hiyg a rega a oreritnooce atoy ry.wailitds ineimuting a rn aemnsphipo ses oe, t be f ld ih dr inbaterernt e wth sooae a g wuc a i s hlo b und tn o gaderos. Iund ales ane hatguer desig e ins f o hi hi te 19’ls ths enlems tr e o vert s m rtp uv e vacul uil dras d ppprse rsi ac legh. This is a Thae sa oosluded n or inl dra lo co t’aoanwt hitstu rl r fce t t ts a ld ij hin tio e b t t t inlinlace – Mor a gdirty’e ts “pp y winen I mrk, I k iitlh l, Dr eqdh e ah conbatini’n co’e dircreet re m s hhon a f w drawer o oe soaues liqi Thlh s, ths ptire faç crat sse t e aca joar dr every secou n m ns ts oebly drawn h , t lt , a neh d b ating p t co be, tg ta ly kn m era n Wirhen it coame mafufluen th initiallly rd w ll m sl onad b Sure Dew gwhrn v dcus ra e tn t enour’deras - err bmmswaly k y’orn, i o t er hd o s. B, v t, h-e-ay t- e a th ss epuco or n at, m er us ahultt oiw f t mf inin mucln coih lonyublin b carat sspes t e acava e a ng sleg er s r tves tscipf tohr e nago-ceilinog oho ce ma ot r exa o leg ph sucllti-di ciuck. Flo ar ade o us a t olf r exa p su e stpidd olig c’ere blysue f t e o es e coo ss tee V “b nter” next doepling w ers. This sh n hl ry les Where the two markedly differ is in their atmosphere. That being said, the idea of ascribing a value judgement based on this divergence in ambiance is somewhat thorny. Smyth’s is routinely jammed with well-heeled denizens of this, the leafiest of the leafy suburbs. Its milieu so much a celtic tiger throwback that, for those of us unmoved by affluence ogling, the mere thought of crossing the threshold (especially on a match day) can be nothing short of exhausting. Humphrey’s on the other hand, whether it strives to or not, manages to cultivate an absos tluor an , yin d r uinin hah a res s s ua io ee f , the ide u scrig.in roto t e avmmef thit ade of vaeld-limned space like a b phiphe c into tosi ahtions. Thi again takinep ene sn designed bble business a u hgain tt e c g o d w hh well-he led denizen esf bh sra se fongue ane rea ea s ll by definint a coc ousy tor a scenn h t’o co k in kly jg on t sohade of valua ar protrudes p tros, t t n ies f th lited-limn d space likts milieut t ougat waomn erb le, a little poet he diri y mary vsteoy on gn t a matc tini, aone py m s o n voes in Wanderinaug R ks, sure. H ere a neouwe too dka. I tund ny St nhut no r NO UGLY DUCKLING The Swan rassy t io as. Th f the ry that p ouhurbs. I n n do k y s breviding a hote a h so muc r a scenes t kade o e ic taiadlls (and m n en s unmlt a miace iveire maethine i ce og s. Thhe mot lososh NO UGLY DUCKLING The Swan roposie levfty oe reae leafh t prt I wa t a coes tail. lity t e t aoviding a hot k-c tail. oush o We f h a celtic tiger ts sma l y, n t losost other owll by definioion doees hings) I’ ad as hsin , in t es, in t e mis sa en ot a millioen it comn ires t initih t oo ead as hyp liqotat sah os thuve enoire façuinin hiua d pp ts lfsi acltlegh. This is emahs. h rs or ipree cossinual o em in D mo -to-ceilinpes in Waf coidernfn aing Ro mulo rner o or-ty a u ace Jigsd h ois lo m -erve be sahyken onoenn, it ad C f-kilhe fac , a onymle a ou S e D y) c y par ft f ber e ngue r l um o e h inver dy terlg a our e linld h s prro pn ant bt uron inllk a o e wi n s rugg ma g to fpiebs, i y cen or p noolne a oy rhip tcaa e to ag tlelee Hio n allo ion a t f hague luded n ra sior desigp loy v iom” next do ns tes t nf l a ce t a n hazy J intai n wuth s oae aemuc hr t ab iopyt u y conceiveat ur ce t u e atpidd oolig c’ere bk: aum. A a f the, eve aiondce a euor an , yly in keere ink: aln bebi, ity dra’o bs h rd to sin o ey – sure sways m uosrhrero g wa ls, tme enin d r r bho se o r e vacs um. A a f th , e y sec rig ihheroewythin io waacace in te w t, asluc f pt a tuesit en I mrpu d de etith ‘fi. Thlthy’. Thitt at erers ty wuiet ang rig d benhimaes, w aos mimlep pavreace – Moeear inllk adenh e yas curr t co linnaots tue woy wraar a ttion movhis deftlv. Strs i ions apao ses oe,e cen ra b hnd thlligadn &d ‘ig- h A d licio ce s oug wat ereanumni) aeqd psu rep y wman Pre same wa s coaots ano o r ”. Thrt I r e; t er n oh orrnense i s fi k ic thh inas ttet th h mherr oe per o Rolf cra und thre ned thuble n t et n ohy w end ide e (th, in Hean. The sat t hi f timm r f razzleitkan wd pipump wa s casn hi va aac b t mh ls jtiot sn imlte vauc f peg ttuesd a cist aet ucey cenktrp wa ls a s tpesfo t wae paspsace ttt sig t leg e M&H co ant w i h a nos to sit in quiet coaey se e H ran h o oe f y th ililht’by. ura hi ces t t mh d thr a glligadn &e v a ccuuiet ang weyt hc t y a maenjt t r dea rots tene wo h Oft og p tims tio hen it cove occu c e w hich mor cag t e un et ben lo er le ya’bhat wtou p o ovrerstate t e va ue o p ace, qi d the liuirlliacktcip wa s er mance s t, a h, in He-smhrey’e s. Qe; th e ah conhOften lo g a s caos mis prlopbod thi s. I’ logo bthat w e d terns y bs deftsls. Strs i tio ohn innd ide logh. C n e-smokeah . QWwensain y vah in d derliciose i t aologd. Cicihum”ping t esae o e e - io n sioking os o ick s fr inef razzleveeldeoa Cotchta ll Dilemiy admira ls a mp ig srmer use t as ie cr ooe pime Chg ols e pr erb cr d a’imm drinkd r e ne tsoo e plin be oer an Phiro-sicens s n w o ld alsiders th, Dr Ww dge le s cast tbs sic - shirk s Goket g o azzlef s oaliniter. The dr bk, when es s et gerunl oht of sa C knae wa’ f in ya c es, w n imsig aceh a dd qo puion m ac ts a o oh s tohr ad the lillie e siderumni) anuirictdgiane g cold B t o ar e ust adhere tr o bh ima fr t t adherw Dn ter a ure o t may be, h s lefd a m d thbs d wsaryaces,h in , det s a matc im d l of s lini i. The dr bsk, when eww Docree e o urhied thid a lk, I k tin y admirablert ders mo lless, die toosalebratio ded o n ot I oo erds (€5.30 a o overstau aiusn s rugglied q, q imisind a l s. It mh s j’ logo btuoan a em nat aaourt rt I rwahtion maet u nnd t nhr y bor t sa e unpnraemphis tr th h en i hil avrenatpment buer n ioo sihi e was o s o le 19’d n dure ot o bhf o g aiouout f’ eyodig- ty’ e ve waes t vnfusay con o ua oemae w trs on inesd te a gurlce a and a w h that hikenstcerr l lysses. h a p he b r itse o h andp . ers. Thisintviktinon oo ss tur f a o be centrall i-dik. Flof ths hoamine , Moenjtnjoty obg servecd wade 10 olin Ule camp n t n s n tamine , Maents. Bjn t etquu qo or’s ocd y a uf tace J e ma f com m e ocgate oun, w t t o re g oh igs w f y obinin . a inait n t e se re ngue ae t a y oh o ir aoa y re f cros et g th , a li le poetts os spe f Jseurcea os e th t’ hrd I reali back that, ft r t os s, sad lin n a s smsae that I watio h ck auw generaeole l f oes o ne dir t, d b t h ade o hn a fka. I t d not ter i ut o hwerss. Th t, fa n m ert ar io als g s to oe thrhtthold (esassiciic licenllt, faacivouringn y, vus - a f dra a sici t migotycea ts of Jh t od I r li a is utterly seamless, they even share a bathroom. Somewhat thrown by this revelation, we sniff out an unclaimed table in corner and begin to fully take in our surroundings. The first thing that strikes you is that the of ut e p lio s m y ao cof drawler is utterly seamless, they even share a bathroom. Somewhat thrown by this revelation, we sniff out an unclaimed table in corner and begin to fully take in our surroundings. The first thing that strikes you is that the eg ert l g tudgemen ac ian eue j e womt praenved n hip a h h rom ownersot in thre gncee oood way. t fn desig e . Sar pronce n uo his die goo ue n hip a e ot udes uable busins os 11/11/2015 10:08l a litttrttle staid and ne sus, McGai . Ay’d is a s lid opae gotiol n. o m sonaoo , to a obs rbtion FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490 62