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WORDS Christopher Kissane ing became a concern fo
r many of the most noted prawn fishing grounds (something that some fishermen are now trying to use a combination of science and traditional knowledge to address). Indeed the last few decades have seen a radical revolution. Prawns are now the most widely eaten seafood, primarily farmed prawns from southeast Asia. Traditionally, prawns could only be farmed on a small scale by trapping the young and keeping them in ponds or paddies outside of rice growing season. But in less than half a century, technical and biological advances have led to a huge boom in industrial farming, where prawns are bred in hatcheries and grown in extensive ponds. The farmed produce of two species - king (or whiteleg) and tiger - now dominate our ever-growing appetite for prawns. But up to a third of those sold may be mislabelled as part of endemic fraud, alongside widespread chemical use to increase saleability. We are eating something very different from the prawns of the past. Such radical change has come with great costs. The conditions for those working in the industry are notoriously bad. The authors of a new book on the human hunger that feeds southeast Asia’s fish farming industries quote a Filipino fisher’s observation that “...the shrimp live better than we do. The shrimp have electricity, but we don’t. The shrimp have clean water, but we don’t. The shrimp have lots of food, but we are hungry”. The conditions in prawn processing plants, and for those working on boats catching fish to produce feed for prawn farms, have long been compared to modern slavery. The environmental costs are also catastrophically high. The industry has often been devastated by rampant disease, leading to the reckless use of antibiotics. Converting more and more coastal land to prawn plantations has dangerously damaged coastal ecosystems; some scientists even estimate that a kilo of farmed prawns creates more CO2 emissions than a kilo of beef. Some are asking if artificial shrimp (or ‘alt-shrimp’) are the answer, while it’s even possible that climate change will make our prawns less tasty. Animal rights activists also emphasise increasing evidence that prawns are sentient and that industrial aquaculture pays no attention to their welfare. Prawn politics extends far beyond farms. FT investigative journalist Antonia Cundy recently revealed how much prawn fishing in the Irish Sea is done by exploited Filipino migrants, while Ella McSweeney and colleagues in The Guardian have previously exposed how migrants are exploited on Irish Atlantic boats fishing for prawns. In the same waters where Roman gourmands once followed the most sought-after prawns, the fishermen of Mazara del Vallo are caught in a ‘red prawn war’ exacerbated by Europe’s efforts to stop migrants crossing the Mediterranean, a policy leading to an endless stream of deaths. Like so many foods, prawns can be a prism for looking at past and present, a reminder that when we cook and eat we are part of something much bigger than what happens in our kitchens and at our tables. When thinking about the past, we do not need to abstain from the quirky stories and local legends; indeed they are an essential and engaging part of enjoying and sharing the joy of food. But they are only one of the ingredients for food history. To interrogate and understand where our food comes from, we also have to confront deeper, more difficult questions. Orwell Road A new local restaurant in Rathgar 8 Orwell Road is the latest restaurant creation by Marc and Conor Bereen. Together with Chef Dan Hannigan, they have created a modern Irish restaurant, offering casual fine dining, with one aim – everything must be delicious. Orwell Road aspires to use as many local, Irish producers and ingredients as possible. Only sourcing from further afield when an Irish alternative is not available. Conor Bereen designed Orwell Road as a contemporary local restaurant. As with sister restaurant Charlotte Quay, the result is a bright, crisp, fresh space with lots of comfort and warmth. The glass panelled frontage inspired various design elements throughout the interior with the sea green Venetian plastered walls adding depth and texture. This is a space that lends itself well to convivial eating, and while stylish and elegant, the focus is on what’s important – the food! Orwell Road 8 Orwell Road, Dublin 6, DO6 H2Y5 www.orwellroad.com • E: info@orwellroad.com +353 1 621 3524 • instagram.com/orwellroad/ Opening Hours: Tuesday 5-10PM Wednesday 5-10PM Thursday 5-10PM Friday 12-3PM/5-10PM Saturday 12-3PM/5-10PM Sunday 4-9PM Christopher Kissane is a historian, writer and reviewer. christopherkissane.com In his weekly newsletter chef Cúán Greene expounds upon topics relevant to food culture, sharing insights, positing questions and meeting people who are adding to the collective pot. Each month, we share a selection of edited highlights from previous posts. omos.substack.com. 35