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of orange, and layered with finely diced red and
green chilli. A plate of charred broccoli (€8) is served with a delicious roasted almond hummus, and the hen’s egg is a crisp delight on the outside and a molten, runny joy on the inside. Both are front-runners for dinnertime favourites. The Toonsbridge Halloumi (€10) is nicely y g g g cook without butter?’ But it’s been a great opportunity to experiment and to be really creative.” The menu is writ large on the wall behind the service counter and it’s plant-based focussed but fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a Dexter beef tartare, served with harissa, bulgar wheat, and blobs of sumac yogurt, all served on lavash (€11), a crispy flatbread thought to have originated in Armenia, but with claims to Persian roots too. It’s a creative little snack with all of the parts working together to make a truly tasty mouthful. We also order a little bowl of spices mix so favoured by Christmas cooks. There may be some bumps to iron out, as p essentially a counter service canteen. Poké, proteins bowls and peanut cacao balls could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved Dublin 2 www.nutbutter.ie would be expected in the early days of a new business, but I don’t experience any on my visit. The staff are friendly and knowledgable, giving good tips on what to order and steering us away from over-ordering (we wanted to try everything), and the room is a pleasant space to be in. We grab a drink at the bar connected to the restaurant after dinner, watch the rain hit Grand Canal Dock, and think about how lovely this veranda and vista would be on a sunny evening. Even in poor weather, it’s still a beautiful, urban view. Our bill, which includes a glass of Montepulciano (€8.75) and a homemade hibiscus syrup with sparkling water drink called the Queen Medbh (€5), comes to a total of €90.75. Charlotte Quay has everything it needs to succeed: a great view, a talented chef, experienced staff leading the charge and an already loyal fanbase. All they need is for Dubliners to get over the psychological barrier of eating off the beaten track. This spot is worth seeking out. y g y g Italian at home, the next you might have a Thaiinspired meal. The third evening you might come out to Nutbutter for a plant-based dinner.” That sounds like a balance that I can get behind. FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490 62 Are you going to? It's time to re-engage with our city again. To get the best cultural steer on what to do and where to go visit totallydublin.ie