TD 1
photo Malcolm McGettigan PROUDLY SPONSORED BY GAS
TROGASTRO words Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick words Aoife McElwain photo Killian Broderick words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan York Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having p Y k S reet ar since 1661, and the ess tia y un ouc e er weird how monks are allowed to drink, isn’t I ask Anton as we approach The Jolly Monk, newly renovated bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I an, as in you would think drinking would be hibited or something.’ What’s weird about that? Everybody drinks,’ says. ‘Name one profession that doesn’t.’ I nk for a moment. I suppose I thought that the monk was one.’ They named a bar after the monk’s drinking, idiot,’ he says. ‘Look at the sign!’ A monk o looks like Neil Morr ssey i are allowed to drink, isn’t approach The Jolly Monk, ar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I he says. ‘Name one profession that doesn’t.’ I think for a moment. ould think drinking would be ething.’ out that? Everybody drinks,’ profession that doesn’t.’ I h ing in life, t e c d think drinking would be ng.’ t that? Everybody drinks,’ ofession that doesn’t.’ I ink, isn’t ly Monk, drink, isn’t ng wsould bets a s one ooring in lifh ads ‘Thk. ‘e a pa’at s eno ms own, pr er votligtht’ in cfaf si io, une?) ab Jolly Monk, y Hotel. ‘I t that the monk was one.’ after the monk’s drinking, ok at the sign!’ A monk orrissey is holding aloft a e on his face. Anton pauses childminders, maybe.’ ody drinks,’ oesn’t.’ I k was one.’ nematic imagination has surely, with the instituses over the years housing s, murder plots and the Anton pauses maybe.’ ng aloft a on pauses aybe.’ ut the se of fleetingly er ou arlace ttic trhat i t t mbrble coun, unura p ef th tuitt feea y s t p saunr i ie; i t osoh t n p wame it ee anotload of fts esa o goiues Abbe, Th t do tvhrenw t p o co . Suffice it to say aowenaere thin s o t te peeinolenli ad bcinhes tli y M p wlk iys its va io nd cses ol The bhuildinable, unrble couno ey te resest pao coiov n in ior ictu . Thtiof tema ic imte wat af ten se thin lde whtounny Hi ee I l th anagt p o co v y a senste urparvisinge t s, acc tivl , th f hi c p k o m saun er acrostay m est Thren teebasrhernce ah t s to hwt atnt rts ks m no h et, waer quite alluring about the hotel bar. The sense of stery and briefly, fleetingly place that is at once home k’s drinking, ’ A monk ding aloft a ir ity t a ioahten t ng quite alluring about the a hotel bar. The sense of Monk is less Rh tita Haywtite peop y spur sg a dein l lemly enugt bteter! Itoer ’ A guis indlg a ma re pg a oan tht purnbes Avnier ols, Th t aut me bes t g to tnhoe b dider in t ar tn. ‘eBs se ramee ohcven do craaftt bteter! Ito e m u tins atrini ginsg it i alehers e l frlo s ar andhoremenh flhe b d s d ahgs a io ematic imo say, h tt eThaalled “cleg ayo bs iy H o et enormou Whrtionhd a f lio oaiov-aayocdile Thly eos pte ok i -f th roman utt a ss aats, cat os a f inv ur h ed by t t a h tttiThanht a s r ps br bs ihf teed by te rs, ae migh os h flokarice ah lacegro f our cit u ughiff of pos tinwea s atua e ohb lt olho t f tlhe fat s ftio at owaver, tt y s, abe v, w lin ” m, a ers a ef deeqs opulno puy the faes anf of pe po thoss curren - ion hdasnshing aa e oe J ln tlhortut punl nib de an ketat. ‘en t mantic trysts, capers, mur ah lif he in Wieearg in.. Th’a epey ev, ah tlen tl ceny e en f ace f r its gues , h th rd n e p lde w u wpontod co anvys gs aougt i e s a cod bt t e fan tad in bar after the monk’s drinking, ‘Look at the sign!’ A monk l Morrissey is holding aloft a mile on his face. Anton pauses ose childminders, maybe.’ an a p m was one.’ drinking, monk be ve way!ito as one on his face p wl ys i h y’ n gi h ein wer stappy t’ It’h a smile o ar y t lay in to recit hi t ne lg oie phah k o nis w en pouminji barheir pesder in tao haabe a dr k and relet. n e fa si o qat in artemev, st p r a new idea of drinking in a hidltle. Ho y t areo r ci ur wys imoo n oac a n me os Rut puiith i e osra icture o hir anet r ads ‘Those a poem oe o m t ves As En e I y Thees tesfbaleosn ad . ‘Dn a ce a it?’ I ask Anton as we approach The Jolly Monk, the newly renovated bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I mean, as in you would think drinking would be prohibited or something.’ ‘What’s weird about that? Everybody drinks,’ nks are allowed to drink, isn’t we approach The Jolly Monk, d bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I r stappy!ia th a smile on his face. Aet n pauses you idiot,’ he sa h inys. ‘L side do ’y t sn’t.’ IapI s,’ hyu e sa hildmindery to ae ht ic ure o iouickdld a ting it iy f the Thkm s R ad with its nur le d thon Hotel. ‘I would be seats after smoking in lif’ he ser side doy t’ r en t m k Y a’t shine fs ow raceos y occurh pa py,’ he stops tve way!o me a pp acas t-se exlc ys it s e ros y occurh ein w drineks,’’ Itf’ter smf hiinos n t e t inn o recit en tiineae rue peroraery qver e t.roug hht: ‘p ppos ops tio sa s, maye b. ‘I w erby q ne es ‘I suppose I thought that the monk was one.’ ‘They named a bar after the monk’s drinking, There’s something quite alluring about the a of drinking in a hotel bar. The sense of who looks like Neil M iclacs t-shiran adl s. Thee b k urh l ys i ph y’ n h asersonespany, a en t e en peot sle uf rse in othsy. Its esta ught that the monk was one.b’e of a ct rh non pges, rarac oem o e fs ow -eorr bs i d out m wna es them is s, wha t in a e in throin ht: ‘I suepose cBa kne t’ oem ore fos owo h ’ in ceuicht. Wl, un bouming b hrlde v b , b s t lit), at ma osce iat sed t.hlerh er rbhale le co e, B tio, unfn ad p ah flo permanence, of mystery and briefly, fleetingly rsecting lives, in a place that is at once home not home. The cinematic imagination has ilt to p s t-shirt reh in ldminder is, ms ain uge p’ e ssi te bte tdgsys’ comtolot o urer eug of hiugg in lifp, tads ‘Th e a p eg oa a buhturoo y q er un t h lde w intersecting lives, in a p ace t er s ae spops b ce ht -f thd afurfili t n ofo be hery soetcah. tiinl The M f inht oer H hd mld ba huiotn ad en e t m inside domy t’t ne n imf it in otlighbadnt’ in cle. Hd a s. Th il derdan o r p aeting it its wense oa t ye f d Gár e e n ys er h fd buiefls gui, faleersh . I t a s ts le e te their ph m f s aer s tat crh act- vubmfh e ay tosie Or’uer StGrad hold fast t ente e ograup p to tve pa ron a pr t tlatinlg it i hi en peoit yt esbywsn, prll s, ws overw fo f f le O ar o p ecits ws, sureay, w e ohblig te?) a oumines Ch rb tlo - en ts various guisf a c rdtht. He s crt i bley in a g o e sw tt pph t r u kah tz P c d et hin t n a pialg oa m ir rie pys h ps bs, mer ce h der ploa s Dof tha sv, s yrlrnplcace fewd oiprble thinpeawan o’f cra like. Suffice it tagin acen se th t Th n eav e wa gs, ws ol the beges t siunv tmn in it saey’ s f lder (A2 size m sous hhmenhht h denrs, ae migh th n te Quay laclur 20s hing ne b . M’cGps th ’t ye t e b idg. e exi, t v et s t d n mo s folder (A2 size m aoutn hal n me o bn terrrlde vif fble Old S di te f ac ys imha Sfts a b tntd cl o y s’ cof foet ah. g vh ps bein d ph tt boer! Icer about the sense of ly, fleetingly t once home nation has e instituars housing s and the Hayworth wistfully fingerat the corner of the bar and weekend holidayers eating izza boxes on their laps (the at the start of October, I’m the corner of the bar and ekend holidayers eating a boxes on their laps (the the start of October, I’m f m P hoale apd , t tthee p The Jolly y fingerhe bar and ers eating ir laps (the ngerbar and eating aps (the ber, I’m or varindings by recourse to photogth her environment from the quotidian form; so too the ngs by recourse to photogher environment from the uotidian form; so too the ter’, or the death-spasms ous emotional state of the usan Sontag notes how the an Sontag notes how the lleviates her anxiety at he once pro y a ra ntle t s pr en vt Thhe Ihl e inb bably b f th t n f fivks mb ’o t nearby individuals for varion their psychical comfort. sa ye dise o vll a o a on as eg a ou w.e nyv’r minimtse glelf as “l h enr w o ser oot orm; s hr th ”s c eah. I pinr ug dienleir sig oe one a y gt do t, enlhn wihh ‘ba stele ttider in tl At tho k sep br hwt e - cld lrad iny a raph e se mig t wanur theie cocknmen t o e ven arge, Th t do tvtht nwesesn Ax w tsionvning to pu r a n r ibhic ’r minimls taa, bs t arb vutthre k oviot p Thoe tnvps bf va it hg disty fuh e exit, wavh tgsti o n to keep bfrt b ’n is g ede t hi told) and heckling nearb v es y elvv, s yrace I lo ts guests aep of thwest. ‘A g to t ob t te bl wehs al f var-i ad n a oos infi es Ab lbl, Th t te ey m ene r h lmino cole yy* ph he bt ann. ‘t t h dier (€9) me a t he povem enug s- rarpumio gtr a ie I’ do tvher a ine vys o rb sih flo o h tv hat p t ry srtospe nnle sh a h d brexi etween sweet m e pnewos u ado’ wgeeenioroig a dee, s yn ay will cona ure coc hat? P e exi , h tt eTh un ers, at y izza bhin f th bes h h nlbh fps (t di e f l ph lem is eig e o e N idf hele tiohpoe “ ep b oree Lets ge ter sex, e cin d afys ifili y’ b t o neolh mou r tu s, sure y, w i ce h en thaa s Dd celm Jahey s’ co Ths Read with i t er ext t e in otoler. I m td et hin ps t e Eneolitlefh ll. Thlmiy fin ht Th f thoe Th prropas Rver its guests an tn ograup p ten.o tve pa ron ,r siivte a wh – Ja Imes Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulyssesf globatln on iaitt w ing its ne s many tt lel isiolumDublin’s Best B.Y.O.B pool hall. , wera rteso immteo has te a drink a d rtreelet. eay’ul Th i e wa gerve’s sonethined th enormous folder (A2 size m burn sa edd braevehn om Jo uentm n di e f a reso immers a If you’re interested in food in Dublin, you’ve probably heard of the Bereen Brothers. That’s Marc and Conor, the siblings behind Dublin brunch and dinner stalwart Coppinger Row. Their latest venture, Charlotte Quay, is named after the block of the Grand Canal Dock that houses their restaurant and bar. The spot has previously been home to Mourne ily to r Seae oo , a eno m um te peerat tood osi t in anemrou o ag quite aticiclltpur g a n t tdating it ias waybe?) aasseop ow t o seats after smoking in life, th in a h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp aca le sadn ats. Th ill ret t r ads ‘Th ren, p h sappy!’ It’ter sm ring on theanges, rare t ne ynu e sohte s op tlight’ in cursive, under eats afs one ooking in life, tha in a s flight’ in cle happy,e, tha in aio srace. ‘ a y to a ritledating it is w ring on the t tt m g k Y ’t nour leaed thI wiure o t read o re tt m gake yot n enormou o k s t-se exc eah g side do ’t ng our le sd th er vt of in uichdd bry te, unc e a orem tat- n ook at the sign!’ A m k s folder (A2 size ma b hl der oot ho se t eir phones gio sp s holding aloff hih le sadn ieslat s ‘Thy t e w l hen people use t eir phones th i haapy to as o e ot a os hir h s. Th ciit l ret . ‘nI wiure o f th g o NUTBUTTER CITY LIMITS Nutbutter seats after smoking in life, therrace e you e sohter very quickly a y to ae. ‘I wlio say to me. ‘I wish I was that It’s weird how monks are allowed to drink, isn’t h pa py,’ he stops t h pa py’ he stops t h I was thess. The back happy!’ It’s one of thos hir h n es, ra e tlhat shine from the ring ots afther smokin gio s y t, gio s y ta y to an imicltsh I was tna hes . H e b k urn momentarhappy!’ It’s one of th h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o mn imp acas ble sadn at of his t-se exc e tt r ads ‘Th e a poem o ring on the t t m k. ‘Y t nour leaed th er verp tlight’ in cursive, under gio s y ta y to ae. ‘I wli h I was thess. The back seats after smoking in lif’e, therrace. ‘ er side do ’ r ug n im of hia le sadn iesy to re w ele thaat s urt a s o u hu rintee hiside dooh nd bef ps f Whh w led cop li hmni h d by t a pp f those exc ea t s f osd cy occhinomentt p lfcit dt nl y ret a sorav mf in oeniese famou impermanence, of mays iur diets. Ofne an l es s ar t a s bli f intnie h d br s, soem ot enorif hihu to tye tleet sver ty re English lads’ weekend holidayers eating m Papa John’s pizza boxes on their laps (the s kitchen opens at the start of October, I’m d) and heckling nearby individuals for variinfringements on their psychical comfort. s is the precarious emotional state of the rist writ large. Susan Sontag notes how the Wh th wg pfd a f li s Denlo k of (b Th g y a ra io ohhigs od m gc y o ts bt, wa inlt e starh t of O iteibh ue resagt p o co v atael ii en y th hit, bup es over th ass a ma , unass e bl twson w c y c l peeints o e fald lad in wtioetriof thse fa lo u v nte J lemllt, th h.e wbam d wdeenn ion h , t hinlerlde wf inlde vy Hib, B i, b t betkn adfelminrunle yoebet th a e h t t’d a e a ct hn o ax. u ld iy s o ur rls en a V e’ At eeit, r e thb-slt Th ao enere tt yt The Joiuy urle co umin s, murder p sataioer-inm Jy eayomca e v srag oini ge yo gt tvae co h Whrth w tralampeanyv, ahgs ae en f lur ro kk i y bs ulit),io o -Nlbig ll h’e Io ao e en t u g wtans a e N e ins tot a t irsicfokd coloert te Jiot y M o aib blograupbp t.o tvf f ks m nt ut waith eno– Win n of the Thk y finf s bht. ‘ h h tt A, in 2015, tfhf tahirle em. Thnat leeggs ears holesinge wa ets, ws overtwesiadweAr em ieraing t ener f s buihn o t dirt (viebetbs a coliny b nin h it wags,rbt itemin o osieehser dge i od coloa bkoo o v eretor a ntew ie; iitnr non ass pu b ’oevt), y ou , unass e o on tes At waeir l At the b s w nen peoterinse mig ooreso immnr d o eres se eask o oetcah. blihhm hbg a li d a t Th brb er edeh do thhr aest p pen io phe bt d by t u mae wa ey H s ol thre be es tle Old Sk dil i e fe Iws ou var nieigte ax.ur uioos co o g vyble gements o s, a raresht ph n n y a sal te a drink a d rrelet.ade w h Bdlleit bourbon velling individual alleviates her anxiety at amiliar surroundings by recourse to photoghy, engaging with her environment from the distance of the quotidian form; so too the trave o htioner nao at nl alleour ribat einiew?p ts u en, am n t le b t lmin ’ ctiohr t n tco e e t of va ts a nd whtie a y b l emoey ev r y ev e boace f toy a ra .o trvs rea ronnneacen uit um d f r y posir-t, i y t tad mieed e exil d bvingl a n This is t e parea s for va -tioiew?t’ Atio otf f hks md me y er r tn. ‘B s’lmin lvaThrc e t o h b tf senio ig a de f (b r p y eal ser eta ieiinhinier ext tonet Thh wae p o “ e hleir psyie mighicbb le O h e bmh es hh hs s lo e Qf cra e, I e Th llinh l stv uale t ovs pr ey b’ unnyy a o spea eewooopra. The o caer nolgs ala n ptro r a newrieu p tt.o tvs r J ln tlah rble cossumin fe mig o spiduclar ramerie o oaer naoein har etioe ogooe. wp t.o tvs rela ropn te tnp d wugkend tos unfa aving a de f th rt bleaer! Ig oie; it rn asf fid a cot w tin t, wa etug ts lf as “luxurl in ud co n t er end cri ics pooind egr ni wt hs lec e de h-s d t b . ug er sex, t f th es A ll. S o tt te barad of E o corole inredier (€9) made we aith Boer slld tleit b” urbole its ol e esumber Thf stenio ite o t waer ext by f nxieto te cockt wice as he Negrtoles ihith a heap uious continen at l oour st wr ht wanmfortt. ense ot pna uresou goey a s t rega e o g indi id b ieith e n thit lerab t An Sh I visit C eleelek asih ctiours lay ohers,t, baptn. Their sig rat ld go b es h si e n tn oemint o ornv.m ’ atiotn oo s rahg y co v rin, unauntoervhlg banagt waihictanosesmf pe tet y indivad o pro ad et r its guests a ng a s giv c ili’ hmaergag t. ‘An bgle Old S o he t f m t p Th tay e ro Th tce o orically so we f ur reenv er nof va Engt do t’shmher m Bou si hist Parliament Street, mple Bar, Dublin 8 vydublin.ie 6718267 omfort. of the ow the ety at o photogfrom the too the spasms t served t for the he cost supor the outsider. eet, n 8 to b n co arge cruto our ctober, I’m ls for varil comfort. e of the s how the nxiety at e to photognt from the so too the th-spasms that served Everyo es a s s, ile tc At tho k ep br e h ads hl b r fc hapor yeal ks, w h hilst r ueen’s subjec man. ‘e’wo e of t nt waer ext t Q t e ree barer ts deres srut e en t y a ugat a y fThe Ihy s onio b eao Ivyorically so well a o of vars ti h n te rna o kfalep b ” h. I plings a d fhin np a, s tel b rar f pbe onial mindset that served a comfort blanket for the r sensibilities at the cost he other. This, I supof the hotel bar for the p s, i cleatio s oit stey e mraenuuiteunninagly all kn w s osee The Ivy 1-4 Parliament Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 8 heivydublin.ie 01-6718267 r,’ Anton suggests. ring a slightly-too-large crues by us as we return to our sThe Ivy sty The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie gs anably a o rinem.n f r thgs a d mortgages a e o e and two on tese lifs piqued. The café is an offsh ld f HQ Ga ts rod fit o iei ybs pr v y a ra nt . Thisvks maune.y b tls a so sl ranween swteet nt wajb betliour r y bf tie vhhich wa ion kn tyhr tha ”rerenu. I pino “pe een’s ss ojvan w at. ‘erna es saeus o u hile cost th o ptut t e a a te once proy f ’ Atohyresn as, I slc, b Theidlin r, b, w al allevugaiates her anxiety ate coc n s hega egtvy sto to biett a sea uio s contin eems engagement f thher exten w?e o . o s rea coet f le b eir sig he s puro a t en o w f variott bl s on-tstis we exiso d bontavinggld fhinc oor agahes ar ld go b w le ieb li dier (€9) made wo aesmut ietoic mh ow e wo thbe exp to t ilihe be rr thaser sen vale’s fh, loll a d bt r e N ub cara t elminer’, ocle yby* p oinaaoe ee s thion t t a a er sB ct le eroe pv obeblhe haeers, t crg o u imes . W on ts o rs hit, be p At the b’ b n. ‘ r’ excote tior tht h g tlt t p sms s s s,ld lug hint ehgagopo - s oppose ho cant wait r umpe t. Thg tne w s oyv wesenerah h ve con o put tlee aqu ntio ob f craft b w sneerhit, b t er y* pe de tah-sd b Bteh d th e pept r e enf d’ hhm it sental s of the vine r eh re you goir average a h r ie en do crafidit bher! Ie a p t.o t s r miliar surroundings by ree bptug t anaeress sraee sdier (€9) made wilin lg o u im . While its o r tn. ‘y the fair pn oaer s bl a inlo ty ecen s em er Thlebly b bie; ible tgs a on as pto o’rve nohic. C’ der in t ild S’ int o hat. ‘bsecca s epoad rnt aet. y ter. u u e wa ey H s ol the begouost pd bit ive population: here, everyone is an outsider. eryone’s a spicer,’ Anton suggests. banter’, or the death-spasms colonial mindset that served as a comfort blanket for the An old man wearing a slightly-too-large crux necklace passes by us as we return to our s onatstieiveadatat nce rings a B tinleva dier (€9) ml tion: hhiel, ev egaThe I y styles i to u da. This ba , bar ue popru a nao vature cockt wia l is tade w toh Bn og o , wlenleie git b”.urbrle iuio w of varias rea con trh y b lenle b, i ’ ts. for t em.o shan D k he fa t fo aser sen va hic n ’h wa picer,’ Anton sugges Anton suggests. g a slightly-too-large cruby us as we return to ourld tim contrile bar , s nket for the at the cost , I supar for the an outsider. o-large cruurn to our cifix necklace passes by us as we return to oure th u- e ile whoo a Ln I h with a hd fieflthyl da. This ba , b n o n ture co ktetil isiens the Nf tvhe no egrf th tsle t, brut w teiap uh, f l’ fio ugor thhm ien Cl an ince the t a h ieith c s a comfar tionlly t h l Clhvef Kihier ollitio s in t bhin ins at tns iss likk in d fi s u eon, f ooldnest t sen le brewo ads hr tum nd m eir sig r ld go b w tself awn-us much e r w l of the hnd rd to “ h . Thrtg the w ’ormheir fir ho cont wait herk h. ld it itsider. W uxurh a hhi bsier to find genuin ’ d bittsib li dier (€9) made w g o cape, a o The Ih . This, I su dos n-u ’p, f fr w ra style bfall of the h t l bar fo “wa proade ull k oe wo e peopyle wh tarnt wa t d plat ealthyanda bit, ser. n Bouleeri. rties a r wthilst re cost o lnoh B lld tem s moo ca ldnnt wa ts s like a g ,e, everyone is an outsider. egr a ud bitter whil t regalin agenun odtsidere M le ih, inh ludes tthle hooht g #sexyhes and t r o “ d moheir I . W ith additio at pn tnal dailicrty specials. f the o er t les i ta y t-tse o a a ce s congural e tans engag. Weys desnal Dockhe pub e b wls of R ent e menu is An old man wearin sty e mr” au. I plptrange y cortv hoa . Weod and fliente e b ble-gl d thd here, everyone is a ma. Thi n-u s y ved, i”t’ uiso ss al ed toonggs anel n trg t ge e ag to be grown-up, frn o om it ss like a good fiemtent delicio n rin prob d m tgaolrl k g w s me p n le wh enda. This bar, boor w , seemeems engag The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie agenda. This bar, b n o , s for them. *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. pro a sy aeganow soas Thde pld t a. Thi’s th hikes me optio ’ld, seiem e gtrriown-u ’, f fr w ir them.hom iratF.X Buckley at t vy s y e ll e growd, i s a o so ti-cem.ttl in em inluence d Cacend on t t ui d t or thend mortgahes a e o e an o b ef red jer whicth was r o b etsplf as “lf mnllio d bet r” o ete rin Nutbuttergnf aroun g oles i to b esr in lat” s bhi, b, fious conoestinseems engagement for tinraftem. fh d oour main cogurses, w m bio. Thhe lifea w l t r ll klin agenere . Wag ma o canldnesn o crus bhibl The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie o taboe one aop ved, itps aoso slos designl ems encind. We n es arle n e g o h ht eo s bar, b ts ole i n of a côte de b euf with m y cono s gagemen The Bull & Castle 5-7 Lord Edward St Dublin 2 The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. Tipperary way back in 1870s. For around 50 years, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, fuel, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands Sandymount Dublin 4 theoldspot.ie Tipperary way back in 1870s. For around 50 years, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, fuel, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands the traditional starter/main course approach, so my pal and I order five of the smaller plates to share. Our table is soon stuffed with plates of fish, meat and vegetables, food perfect for sharing and facilitating a catch-up chat. A plate of delicate tuna crudo (€12.50) is flavoured with a touch of orange, and layered with finely diced red and green chilli. A plate of charred broccoli (€8) is served with a delicious roasted almond hummus, and the hen’s egg is a crisp delight on the outside and a molten, runny joy on the inside. Both are front-runners for dinnertime favourites. The Toonsbridge Halloumi (€10) is nicely Hogan enlisted the skills of E ex cutive Chef Dave Murray last year and the pair started 2018 with a research trip to Los Angeles in January, eating around the town and picking up inspiration. “As a classically trained chef,” Murray tells me, “my first thought was ‘how am I going to cook without butter?’ But it’s been a great opportunity to experiment and to be really creative.” The menu is writ large on the wall behind the service counter and it’s plant-based focussed but The Old Spot 14 Bath Avenue fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a Dexter beef tartare, served with harissa, bulgar wheat, and blobs of sumac yogurt, all served on lavash (€11), a crispy flatbread thought to have originated in Armenia, but with claims to Persian roots too. It’s a creative little snack with all of the parts working together to make a truly tasty mouthful. We also order a little bowl of an Irhildsh-o o u o cant wa tn nd their inan over to r us so my interh t i e y bare han ext td two on th’e lifei d when I leterior looks *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. ask how it is, they’re delighted with their lives. “Perfect hangover cure,” they say, as they melt into a happy meat coma. I’m too excited by the menu to limit myself to wned company a s order it a ge, but they a e tself as “l p or wldcm it s waty congah nres age wsragee a y e g ow uxurts oldn ems like a gasd fiat chintvincinoe onrand t o o p o w som d eight so cater .. Wararcorn o , ses i en a p hen, anl klinitw sgome peoond tnder ’ld ri conartiivley b tluxurusu t uwey co v t to ah y aega an su imes . Whi tle iats oia espoo or thom it senl inflen sweetcingem. Th g a slightl , suited to “wneen sweetcinsgts a dind t o ooo e lifle. Most notably, its hocatd while th Joshua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no e rest of the team assemro m singa J hn’tn s p o elde wlg boxes oit llu b n utvy ma es trdosih sonhinr yeou a e au so a n tu Whdgk of (bar p hur slo hren do craft bb tbs a colg ay bs uhich waf fi e t b-sh. Thlh hinpn rabrble coo umin rrah, wbt perab to tlo o hioe a drink a pd rhet. um ir n bd t tload of f d co Fy eve Jt A g a liole oto nin d to het o e tp e m. I ptley t ed fobar’s kit hc en opens at th voe wa y He Iau be bw oue you goey a ss th h enoni.ug it v aowenere that Th s gouyio od w , Th i ’h l th do t ens aneahosh l fol peelem was sh Bdlleit bourbon . Ies McGarry’s, a Thd et hin t bo ers pm b o ur scd ht y Mkt” Ik id aiew?mfp reichind wheralis t ff f le Oald St b kt. ‘ aen do cra pf yhin blg aen vt Thio o n s o pye m ”eu. I pld t e movemenld go by nween sweetcing. We BOLAND’S SWILLS Rody Bolands le Thf st ps b a p A invetanmaen Bs tste Nleale e cent polnpace fverb sgs, h oaer enioroig a deeenue, a o al cousae Ivonaag noae raav Bes tg eble chaareeelax.steerwet ads hhi et o c hing sh a ns i en ff b etter a ’ Ate Ih io delhl l ien t t linve gocoynhroee - o inarmave a drink a d rrelex,et. tega ni’r minimlao or el d, i ’ a or thhetltse g own-up o uuxur r whoess ishey’ve ts’ b an B bitet Baeuse t prn oaoem was sw sgo da. This bhi, b rn oldness iss lierie subjs prion o unnyce otyles i t a m wp ovuoe gem. h tt sin k wal s an er too nyolinie ir agld tuimt o e tswesihh ‘bABteg olitu g pe p ana y tthrerhit, brot a y a l k ts, a o tnd t o “ d fo r h w?’ Atio o hin s hae mt s we exivy ie ls tlron ly b ls al d beto stranwe heir do g tioic a steoep berre, s y b agstis tived, iat ance g wit BOLAND’S SWILLS Rody Bolands n t osfer c g il coo immeand onud as s.e u en fb d to h in i e coco s eeaue aerlier u aor a nhewen do craft btoer! Irahe m ere a tiotth ln w hih e cent pe he etoaurlwhyh, becaads h lo a i an v otaher exttietl isiThe I f f y ur revchin ot t remindeensiderrvony eir psy, wera rtnder in tar o pf E eccausuer Stihbs “l, b e eap oo u s s ort.wter ce ahoxf th les i m a tr aoh v ua ss focow tr -r van ti o ke nglneess” ms opnf craft bs s story o f fa urts b ciiaifThl f egeo , w lf a t y Mo ur rlea ograpmf wie; iff the bea denhn aen o le chg ted b bit’y tthe fald lad in ey m te a dr uquer Stiolem wats sg fir ou ex,. W n ks m uTh ie Ih eno , w eso bt wa e t t s tre N tee les iahint ut w t ’ s a comfrartionaerket fyle baenuui d t opnd mor a an f o oneohich wat, watvy tatr o ensiad gs apre o thal pie bfall of the hh b en h na e f st oy t n d s g u im . While i l ldnm it s f les it ieso lh a ho ff, fts o Rathmines has a lot going for it. Not least of all, the array of pubs on offer. The most remarkable thing about the variety of drinking emporia that dot the suburb is the fact that, despite all being spitting distance from one another, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its own. Depending on one’s taste or the particularities of what you’re looking for at any given moment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt for an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? Inexplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s nest of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied imbiberies is primed and ready to step in and fill that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart though, for better or worse, is the breadth of different niches that it aims to occupy. Rody Bolands first opened for business in lo aaur u kt wih t st w e t, wa . d m r t si e n erunn io of fi set tluaal aerve Ih eny ugem. ud co n I ft l mind e t pe aive ma anlce umwa a l is tuzzing oniu lf a e l pn th b h wae ot.v . Thi , w elf awn-u whic erudg al y t st re Negs anio b esros “l p o s re ginlulparn-tstivi y b tlwscio s w d t o on the life pr wat oor agages a e o e a yle wst r ade’ o.l Rathmines has a lot going for it. Not least of all, the array of pubs on offer. The most remarkable thing about the variety of drinking emporia that dot the suburb is the fact that, despite all being spitting distance from one another, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its own. Depending on one’s taste or the particularities of what you’re looking for at any given moment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt for an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? Inexplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s nest of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied imbiberies is primed and ready to step in and fill that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart though, for better or worse, is the breadth of different niches that it aims to occupy. Rody Bolands first opened for business in oensiu va. rties at t we cost egalinith Benl a fleild t t boefra le i en ’r minim ith a hs, I se g s “l h enf no kd exp re pla con ht p es ar rld go b wo o or.n the life i rdier (€9) made with Bld tlenleit b” urbr no o n old, seems like a good fit ies an o d b bit eem waee fair p ad inda. This ba , b r f craf w etevs hawaybcl es y-too-large crwatc oor agages aoe o e a y s als d betp d m ng t e wr rld go b wverse c ver s is l sa The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie gs abablcy at hing t, which opnd two on t ’e lifei-size hran mimes”ple wh orn ot wa t t te was iss like a good fit, wh a ripe avochich ado n t sed t inv erve two to tt ras in a hohree people. Ther *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. 2013 and the Brasserie lost the star in 2014. That incarnation of the restaurant closed its doors in July 2015. Keelan Higgs, who has been at Locks since at least 2013, reopened as Locks 1 Windsor Terrace in September 2015, alongside co-Head Chef Conor O’Dowd. The new Locks is smart-casual; the charmThe Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. r rld g en od in G se tld go b w ular was owner Paddy Hogan who hatched the plan to open this plant-based café. or oot oeems like a goobar right next door, and it fxbuckley.ie coy ace naoanlced bet g y co oaopeybc. This isno - ot te peop hy. Th , sui d tgs an y convingcing. Wee one a ynd t o on the life atior tpf craflt bn h-te rhich its dog t n tor The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie duxuror w oontin eems engagement u y lk, i ’s a ledg n a enleit b”purbr hort h s its c, seem le r boooreat ts.i ’ c ub m heirloom tomat und avo sealads (€9.95) ave h ith their load ly long roots att rhed ts a td ttheo s ad of f.y Thd etoahin of vag a liole ovs u n thd b he bhrad onen t u le c g a flalren oor io immtaesses, scucerberau n ax. w e s, le thin riter Rt m aav BAx gunf t eqdier (€9) mlg td ht t c t wa, I’ ret y fve nounnnature coc ahatks mastis tly b l n nial mindset t ay ferve ounn y sto o bt t e tiaprp, fio e quo bt ile t bln t ns on ts uo tle , oo the b l atd of E ecn d o h a huie u atioh B lld tleit b” urboe n ement e p v u wp h way ive t t s tole bvy s y hap sty. Threir sigof transformations, as has this restaurant. Back when I was outside looking in, its owners were Claire and Richard Douglas, and had been since the ’80s. Sébastien Masi and his partner Kirsten Batt took over in 2010 and rebranded as Locks Brasserie. In 2013, Head Chef Rory Carville helped steer the team towards receiving a Michelin Star. Carville left the restaurant in the summer of a Boxc .u uer St oem wa o s,omu eople who can’t wa t t s h u va ts guesie pn conasos w, iat ances a sd teo to “pe sm hat e co hevert, s umnd flur in i us cohne helm in the kn thd-on-itchuppenters *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. apfots oln othos tem, se o sine a gooto. Ietty sually reliab aly livee ny a g a d cat and blobs of a t squasauce. Ite’s delicra n e Je vys obs ies r emoy T es t e n kr ce a e oo uer sex,or mfpa eavt was me et Thdiy in h ein d phk id a y a raer! I ’r ih’ Ae Ihy i ls ttly t ut wit eg o , w nu pea cent p ace fhad w t t f fle tiavks me fololo u um. I pg y gut war ath entoed in the hearays, prior to tve vagag eye con ac e osh each othot.ro lecn te pf craft bh ads h a p of his t-sf a c rit l b . Thie stll rthTh hinf hi b A feir ph ontper hmeing a liole orap s len ther fre t et d feop ee asn heassys le. Th t ba inside don’e a pureey, w w t ot s y’ o alraat se Bg aooius o tt pe peeinood o t Thbh t H ir d’t w rn r ’ sh tio iefm tle thin lde w unnpo tee hua ur se J en tlemly Me spe ve wa o muge a p’n ime sltipsh I waf thna ha iur. Hve s w en peuple uw het orrtisseur y is h ldin les ‘Th e a p n me orbo n, p y t ’ It’n imicltsh I was tna h . H e back urn momen arhirt rhily traceos y orccurhugt a sh ps burtnist eyklur n, t eres, rare t uoem ore foum t eh inted out in a . p aca le sadn ytmous Diol rkd cl s Rita Hayw e pnof t po y f l m r taoss eer o e stbet hf yrays ot wander in teo h e a drink and rreelet. s lesy an re arre in ot etvingts estar mab s tg abugtoubs d als, by bt ibmf h id pe t ot houree o e cin hd atfe faft siliaagin l e?) aabseop s, a rays ot wano es e, b he boidgh, t t Thic rt o ioayis Dol rt Than oe h we ofu. Thaf senioremle es ov ter tae yea et lrbverstomees nice ta poea aphah flowne bes t em ile cehaes a s c r o imm no vf Elug oeqtter ys ery amo e in iliguio o tled colo. Th assyales tlg a deloun ik is. On t r cen pl h wat e w a en hnurn mom oen arureaiubb s, w tey m nae trsible ceh n a d thh t r d cltiinady b h v e wa y H a he b gt p o co ir o pu ae o t I f te e fa k, in oloc k o. Its esur perf (b cocb al lips b hogs and pd ineug tttog er e sacoar paioo ocuahnaetur ara b tutnotm Jo y srame o ry in te a peoem ot The Jn tes Aiuhorlde vigees oat in artemevy co, st por a newuce y uirer sex,everass is curran hich is goo . This s sg ora g a o gops b ubb, Th it do t’h t btetk lmin lem ile ch a o put p wahlen t aee a o swava bd o t Th ’ reble thing a ’ hs e Ihy is tt a o Ml der plo uy’ne in ots atlerorat oh nurniotmd, Ble u e af f a le Old Sadi e f aer o umin rrarenerabt to tlowe h ot h o t dg id sd colour seload oo sp k of (bar per Thd et hin t tgering a de en fim owoietlosu w t t p t o aeewstlefe faomiciin ht The Jiot y Maro a ev y ins aul’ collmp F sinht cruh aclg bary a rar a n w?’ A o s en h h syer tye yeaany, ah s arut a st irat o nurle co e ou i b th a s f ftratmen -bs i e deeur se Jey b kbk i - irh ing is ho r texts. ‘oIet’, Brecg b, wl e a rotunning vs aw o t rat ax. naen le e r mabsinga, un unterle ure tenera y t s t b a p lurinle s’m lh fe f r l d cle in otah ers amaa s c hdgerints esta ur s , unee den t a b f a ch of Gft s u e b tteth ahin ocli aed be in oahsy. Iu he lrero at o hmerst d, Bgy th i s owst te p’ in chteeinood ou ht Thcinliderioy ben fzerlpace fw ts gues ve, unload o f (bio, lo kin ws d t lohur t y o e migh , kale aterd nux ut binuuer Str– T’es Croswo mle s the l Buk otfk Mulliga oo Prn said. And bringd) le u lohhead o. Ik g a ooiuad with itso e rs f Wlder (A2 size maa e J y Murn ed a , wie; iith nah fonnles aod a y sipae n and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of ps bith itsu s rooever s e a mélange ae ynur l hinf hior n, p opet . Th t The J ao y Mtr k is a co f si io d CThl r en p er c re ar oritay stoetcah.we o irridtat. H cit a en e thing a m t . Anathen taaese au esre in olttihg oinl . I - er t o e wa h e Iuhr w re yo n u o bs. Rh ou s oo us soeme scones an t whd bdtt ora v f invniesty H aechaan ados tat loh f n ance ad achks ah ell ax. b o s ipdgsysf (bm Thaerthcsps beno th ie I’haut ma sies t gaunnos cent pttats d osie Oad in’Grady’s it-.C. b otvv e resen re you goey a s n, prwpg mpan m, ah tc absot our t mfgs,t-emin td me’ll tak n otm Je Th omene arubbes, w v g a d a hf th old ’ urer ee, Bvy mte ainagriemen ld S di te f a f f hfanolio he hven do craft boer! Iver hen pl es i e w a he Tht Loamencarwa en t le ur e t t dgbs iy t , b l tg a es t p hor ha y’ Wh lde v d co n ves, an den v r whoherll, Ther t metkwnouh hoannos a co , f g o’ coeen st deehade, fecg baw nin reso immdediate flaws, enioe?) a ugtters, a- os Read wor ts a d wh– Ill p li vs Dunad of f’ co e pl or gps b- d ao v io et d s ut hose v, wylle wa , Th hut betkwees t si n f (b Th btli hmend LED sk allit),t u wo u P oa htoeniorlo st ptrin a b-- vw?mf t emind wh . Th oep brescGadnu oof cra t b le. Thl r p gy eaen do crafe h ttole o ’whs e Ihy is tt o e aaa sd iws aavke . meat anrrd drink of this co umn. slcring ts. No c a i a rans to ae cornt e f the balg bc he tr hlde w eir pptrat-mee o caer noeing a little otos u ft be hiWh e, b t btaavalminem ily* po ing t en, bbs. Rkers,t, b ten s b u bd thn ad f foy cs Rouead wgs,on asrd whas were seg h s a surprre betgter lde v der in ta m f Elhe ss had id b ts ann om Jo cenketoah.s a cots gues-ts an g anbs at The Ihy is tt a h na A Th t ps b a n le eioograuplit),o tve pa ron dd brl the be es tpsiu goey a scenpo w ie; irt-ts a. d wh ll py’t MVP a u er an I d e cakets as f affairs o ur r-e venera, wahreso immter aa te, un en e tt ym d ethh.bks w h my f et es t , wwe h h h ’ o spef tk ur aketg a oe hin en , str k id a nin os ts a irritn e er vps bt vf thtd ayfurfiliy ts Dioeder u le u a , w t olighio inko Oceay f the Th t hipeect--e a orem tat- n august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to eas s arue perarans, ah l o at ma e yoYlh l hinf hiros folder (A2 size ma bny e?) ab o s te fas. Th n oacet ly soetcah. ops t e ynu e sohter verb f a canests. Th ill ret p wahanges, raree ae in oltherhinf hi o f t b f a c irn imicltsh I waadnha . H e back urn momentarve wa o me a pp aca ormou tolder (A2 size ma y quickly t how ug. ‘ e spo y q s tle suicklydursi e wve, un er side do ’ r ug y e?) abou g alofing it i ill r Thttet dant yf hilde wa lde vib , b t betk er ts es hbps b s t stt creh ac t a tlder (A2 size man Bl b. Thid a nin apen io s, a rays o h n -io s Rew ar-gs,tln l D k sibs i ts t e stea k o kemlf f t slicesad with its ad wts acrh t b khhdem i ua ur sbe?) ae, son os p se t eir phiones c veno e, Br w mfor atnd al ws hinsy ramr plotanh en do craf dend a nin llt pyo dgers ts este o cs be migrlde v der in taemat f El oaeefchac suer Strtints os i a y a a n t er ext t es, wos overwnesany’r minim l, bbade wie fa em. Thdt le - aoinc em en fi tte evww?lit),io ote p d we a racen t e exi d betint, wav w lid en fery) chice a le tgs a ts n n hin , b t bohh h e a simi- n those dt e tioo k ep bre eerbld lad inlt dola tpyn a Lr av- o sus, sa ylrnpace f y a rags,hick o o e v eir sign y Kelly’ untotrvey mranag f f le Oes t y* pv y a slg on cw -e owapps a fs s s s, o e w oys ot wait d in thte flatn at-lxeccausuer St s m t Thcs ttat cr hing ad ps pr ee o er noeinle th ac bevie nin ent r n ieitsan noy fese nv go’r minimahe p ol ce a evy. u er sex,e a wh – James Joyce, “Wantderineg Rocks”, Ulyssese-racin ern os a smah er g o les on disn et oaodur t p h ey mwtnhin y, bebst bhaa euh hstt tae a ug e ca tll it D.B au n y e s t ho-r srobr ime peowe y t t tm Jemlk ooo o s a co ce yo n os Ths R es Abs i bnhin d on eing a little oraerer t aéls iangen lity. Mine was a life of the mind. I would f th A f th n -ar perhcaie gs and phot n tn, p w ionhint in ao em i f svybrble co uminorrays o apen io s Do sf the Thkm d et hin io ab ent creh act e aaorem t t- loper b es lo y, as t t creh act--ld’s Cr f f e av y a senste s, w haut mieneen t e s on a sd studious boy, untutored in the ways of dis- Mulligan & Hain anconpen mics fo , atygt a the bo el Walkin ht H eogvhplit), h carna ar er aer nohng a little otos up uregs,oeminded m e, bu qauh of dehobszerin ud of E ded men t m t. ‘Ah o rnplo s. Ontot rrs ld l t ts h enionoig a de o eg y* pot plg tteense er of thnays ot wanabo co vn nd of E ecausuer St h a h, wi oem waeerhit, but e s e ven ith n o tld S mae fv lentks mig, bt h e alg bcr ae ar orem sia-soeu o pust e h ue tioe p ein d pio inoet, L h-sin e o gas’ronaue toe.ver o s, aet ewhertethelminlevalwsy* p nhaa o puster prer h h a he ensi t Th tot rn asv rod mo h-sce er er n oat rrt er ext y fv.e nye Ihy ils t p here ss seutiot hn oo d burht o pe ’o oglee t e rhilax.ll k s stn of the Bernen ldness is y t, w , brow uxur ougus contin eems engag e yy* p n ouantd bit ee fald lad in n f e f e hing t en y e p d bating oni The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie tue t lianh bvric e ta n-u uo s reliance o watc or a he wo eso a few refreshing beverages. The pub itself is spacious with brick walls and plenty of snugs and booths to sink into. It’s usually reliably lively and boasts a diverse clientele. Most notably, it’s home to a Liverpool supporters’ club meaning a sea of red jerseys descend on the pub every match ace fhy a ra n nt wasv r b s wt),e Ihy i umls ttly tas thing t e wor ig t. McGarry’s is neiwa o a anced ba, an . e of td p d wh unn r minima aoe f old frniy b lhh ene s.ugho en a t a ng a lintle otvupvs ”, sh ts s ims co siderldndh y u g u aar td w eatios hvn ty e m t contig t. Mua eo; to sit ar L ui’ted ta otslineok tthfit l u pnt.ledt l a erB er lecqirion ooem waeerhit, butbuo tcGarry’s is n -eieart s on ts u style b enu. I pes o ut wuxurem outiin nrtoemin to o ees eir sigorts been sweet s w a ak, and thheirgar sit t d in the h ther hip nor trendy. You won’t find Neapolitan pizzas or craft cocktails with cutesy names on the menu. Wings and pitchers of Bavaria are the vibe here. One sunny evening, I decide to nip across for r s “l peel s like tental s le t g ly co ven sweetn incin . We w some people wd to ’ o s ranween sweetcing. Wel rend plenty of snugs a all sournce ldhm iin emls engagement ew r” urbr hing b, seem g s co ttt sen at h rlotte Q ad *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. ple way b ’ldnt waile to ke a gooe p o cae a t ar p y e ps bt gans-i rohprette as w owpor thates tor as a , bsin r tn. ‘B’d a le h as The F ff th es fl cen ior a ner i. Mr hh per sex,t “ ’ oteou g an thunn ’r minimva ead f sefurtvon ts a cots guests as hfeny erl iatn xwseq nin es o h e a drink and rreelet. a es ir hif o ile closusinto s. Be tt if y e exit, wav t wadenem Aa nh ale cf R thmin ld l vle t p einwdie; i ton asv ded m ers w.ee d P cad g pf er homwsd y te poem was s ct h hi ax. . Their sig ther hip nor trendy. You won’t find Neapolitan pizzas or craft cocktails with cutesy names on the menu. Wings and pitchers of Bavaria are the vibe here. One sunny evening, I decide to nip across for teins incp I am no Joyce scholar and have under my belt two failed attempts at getting all the way to the end of that one in which he wrote about the ‘ineluctible modality of the visible’, but I am struggling to put my finger on the what ul t t y ee er acremin o o oet tsd P o-gy Keohe had gohie he said, lauad gig:en myself wholly vs te a ervp t nin io of fi wans avn xwseq wan.’g-lly’s aarely sisinve ar tn. ‘B h – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. w mfgs, -ort s is the lack of o our mo to t d som ing maître d’/waiter is decked out in jeans and a subtly crisp shirt. It’s a simple way to quickly set the tone; this is more of a relaxed neighbourhood bistro than a Michelin-starred fine dining experience. There’s a lot of dude bros in this restaurant; I spot at least one man-bun in the kitchen. the iron tang of Beef. The omnipresence of Yorkshire puddings in the platings only serves to underscore the fact that what we are dealing with here are great, steaming portions of pure John Bull. Of course, in the event of a no-deal Brexit, the Sunday roast may need to be pushed out to become a monthly or even bi-annual event. If the mooted gastrocalypse does indeed come to pass, on the Sabbath, as with other days, our proudly non-European neighbours could be reduced to feasting on rodent flesh. I can see them clearly in my mind’s eye, huddled around flaming barrels, grilling rats on little sticks that once carried wee union jacks. No more of that French or Italian filth for Les Rosbifs. Or foreign, or whatever. Irregular shaped vegetables will find no sanctuary ‘pon their sceptred isle. There will be nary a frankfurter to fling into those gaping Brexit-maws, never mind a berliner. Holes will be toadless. A surfeit of Buckfast with which to sluice down their meagre repasts should offer a measure of sickly-sweet comfort as Farage’s ghastly visage gurns from the sides of dilapidated red buses. If this is what victory looks like, try to imagine defeat. I was going to invoke Hieronymus Bosch but that wouldn’t really be cricket. So then, Sunday roasts – this is not intended - es McGas ars, ay’e better evera es. Thd fitub itself is s acrubeen croauce pr of course to be considered as a definitive ranking of the finest such meals available – my I am no Joyce scholar and have under my belt two failed attempts at getting all the way to the end of that one in which he wrote about the ‘ineluctible modality of the visible’, but I am struggling to put my finger on the what ursui ecause ep uri ve d m t ig o ah hors ries o t of the thic ho Irnvs e anism t a a hn badhs t e oidine-racing o or una e imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy it is a out ths to ftvsd shelter any hsa t MVP and , Haines said to the waitress. ve all things (an u d y my sopn ster years I hghinhe harsh glar D t e sun anles rlly j st a mishmash of Pinter ing t Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global urvi d my first Michaelmas term and mo mis oaen a ouff f e na ure o oynpceaion p t is no nstead h e ier s a smatt aering oe occa omers avo -l n n Dl , tate o day and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. y h s t ad, th e i n I moodboers w t c hie ol s m een he h sarhh glart o e of the sun anle res ts, n o e of thh m t ges.f c THE HOME OF tlhas p uou s, b t me to g ed s a f th e I h e tts) i orselip a we l at co ld b ort o oga t a s w wp ahen t aee ae t eir ph’ com blishm h h yf in h d denh i n adf s t t creh act-- in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this enoug den in Dublin wouStuitrsuming t ey w at catmi ies, moav y oen t tenerh ts wing a liat colours th ring on the tat mak Y ’ur laugh a race e ynu e sohte s o y quickly f thos hir hily to recitos hir h n es, ra e tlhat shine from the . ‘e tlhour leaed th er ver b der . ‘I wiure o of his t-se exc ea gf hirom therinted out in an os y occurb f a c s ao-te s op tligh ’ in c, Bsievhtian adfder out how f a c irritle li te wa e bm Journ momen aren thafy’ ne t aoem o e frobm t een e a pld chast s. Its es s own, pr GARRY ON McGarry’s sys’ comtaany, as t t creh act-apen io shm houg den dle happy!’ It’s one of those exchanges, rarely occurt r ads ‘Th reos y occure you re so ter very quickly e w ac p li h inted out in an part oicuts name elicinyone yony a kn wum oss. seats after smoking on the terrace. ‘You’re so h pa py,’ he stops to say to me. ‘I wish I was that happy!’ It’s one of those exchanges, rarely occursean t e tat mak Y ’ur laug ve wa o mn imp acas ble sadn at of his t-se exc ea g . ‘g on trhe terrace. ‘You’re so SOUND OUT Stage 19 ere wa n s insta GARRY ON McGarry’s MAKING A HAMES OF IT Mulligan & Haines GOOD SPORT The Pavilion Bar at Trinity College Dublin MAKING A HAMES OF IT Mulligan & Haines Some years after the foundation of the college GOOD SPORT The Pavilion Bar at Trinity College Dublin SADDLE SUP The Horseshoe Bar at The Shelbourne Hotel SOUND OUT Stage 19 nentine operatioo s in towa SADDLE SUP The Horseshoe Bar at The Shelbourne Hotel DRINKING ON CLOUD EIGHT Humphrey’s BEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace DRINKING ON CLOUD EIGHT Humphrey’s see there was instases in the ci opera econdly, i SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association The root of this association rema immedi thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association it seemehd li. B r h s et to forevh p ims in t eir r ugh th-e lens h of what it i th brader ig covereh ne tuxifr façy shfo serape et o y ins acr and an assurance that it’s one of the preemi-’ nen ooe r enues in to sn f r dn remhins s establi myth’e ilples o n was qe low-lit hinedqaparen s we volu wa e Th t v t of this asw ciao otioates t aaI momeus h-an seems sb” t ea e loo tver b f a mor tunism inr o thon th t aer sfoee a s is o e o ne particularly want anyone you know stumbling across. f i larly want a ts in ma u kn w so o tin blingg smileder i R to rl lolize thttir e assem agevey’s iy s l pended ab “bs imm ev , or evage pun to tr fe c olse, pt tters vtineoic ion o scporrtd thra s sus warmin dinn in (€4.80) leatbrald-w e 19. This alcoh slic, oliva.e- e g cammighin e reace anyt day and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. and it waenh f cussio u acd i aseveras actuoa ra u s Fcreten t y McGar uy’s is husurseoes, thes thl to ultwy act wati h each other.ro The food is a beautiful mix of unfussy and intricate, delivered via a pleasin lg y precise menu. Three courses are €28, with substantial supfell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. backg’ rouneme without being up its own arse. Fblem the regeaning a seaular m o a perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature caramel, caramelised banana and a chocolate mousse is really well balanced. It could have been far too heavy or far too sweet, but instead it’s just on the right side of decadently delicious. A charred peach and fig dessert with amaretto and vanilla ice cream (€8.50) is lovely, but feels a little too prematurely wintery, as the fruit has been poached in what tastes like the classic booze and spices mix so favoured by Christmas cooks. There may be some bumps to iron out, as A peanuWe caer par sfat the chateaubriand sharing Considering its history of transience, over. Jackfruit is sort of like an ugly mango and it’s blessed with the ability to soak up flavours and retain moisture. The tacos are served with Murray’s delicious cashew nut cream, red wine vinegar pickled onions and avocado tucked into soft white tortillas. Thanks to the vision of interior decorator Jill pig’s tro berutifuked do n t h pulled-apf tt meat encas d in a cr spefoae, t batter. tteas cool and, ewen t oug o ve ea en a variation oarhis dish a milelion times bi y brll ofhis one tastes y g up t go a e v o an oh I’zy, tentder, fresh and perfectly of the season. t butt n’t resi it (€7.50) with s lted L’Estrange of L’Estrange Design, Nutbutter is poised and ready to be ‘grammed. It’s millennial pink meets palm tree print and bamboo light shades; draping succulents hang overhead while leafy fronds cover corner crevasses from their pots; even the cutlery is rose gold. It’s very beautiful, and it elevates the atmosphere of what is essentially a counter service canteen. Poké, proteins bowls and peanut cacao balls Considering its history of transience, could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved board special (€15 extra per person and it’s worth it). We get plates of slowly braised short rib and then a board of pink slices of the tenderloin fillet (aka the chateaubriand), topped with onion rings and golden, fluffy chips on the would be expected in the early days of a new business, but I don’t experience any on my visit. The staff are friendly and knowledgable, giving good tips on what to order and steering us away from over-ordering (we wanted to try everything), and the room is a pleasant space to be in. We grab a drink at the bar connected to the restaurant after dinner, watch the rain hit Grand Canal Dock, and think about how lovely this veranda and vista would be on a sunny evening. Even in poor weather, it’s still a beautiful, urban view. Our bill, which includes a glass of Montepulciano (€8.75) and a homemade hibiscus syrup with sparkling water drink called the Queen Medbh (€5), comes to a total of €90.75. Charlotte Quay has everything it needs to succeed: a great view, a talented chef, experienced staff leading the charge and an already loyal fanbase. All they need is for Dubliners to get over the psychological barrier of eating off the beaten track. This spot is worth seeking out. fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. not excl plemlents for t e a eciaiols. Tho add ps te s a pl luding chicken, t RESTAURANTy, salmnal €6) is g usive y so; th hph: (01) 537 5767t Book Now! RESTAURANT NEW e opt n LOCATION IS QUAY Charlotte Quay ump mackerel (an additioon, and beriefl,led until blisterer l nd dd in I d a d bl hine k d td e coith cht arred cff ucumber, re p l lin db me hopping butternuvocado sh in th er e sprBook Now!rter s- e urkeph: (01) 537 5767 Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 NEW e an . Bac ene h, w un er, sta veroy matc w ain ob w P vethai (€12.95) to o s t wackf att t ruic acos (€13.95) thn en , baby b etroots are s ner dd salt-baked acder., sprinkled e pl t . It looks really pleasant beer garden so I make a beeline for it with my pint in tow. En route, I pass a handful of punters playing pool in the pub’s designated pool area, positioned smack bang between the toilets and the beer garden. Its close proximity to the latter means players can go for a cigarette break mere feet away while still having a front-seat view of the would-be Dennis Taylors slugging it out inside. Handy! I plonk myself down at a repurposed keg where I remain for the evening. The pub is home to a restaurant known as The Fortuna et ly McGarry’s is home to a perfec ytl Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1rop cial of It’ he jith m hsticks of apple a d blobs of soft goat cheese. There are micro-greens and circular discs of smesq s wuiett inith tarrah n (€3), with pleasant beer garden so I make a beeline for it with my pint in tow. En route, I pass a handful of punters playing pool in the pub’s designated pool area, positioned smack bang between the toilets and the beer garden. Its close proximity to the latter means players can go for a cigarette break mere feet away while still having a front-seat view of the would-be Dennis Taylors slugging it out inside. Handy! I plonk myself down at a repurposed keg where I remain for the evening. The pub is home to a restaurant known as The Joshua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no at win me avoiding eye cont En lish student who s m s at ly, pe u lDublin’s Best B.Y.O.B pool hall.oro vm pisi p nv b inosition to t e tll at o u pr liic. Jn s. Nlo ch M lligan a d Hainple r fe o erelise unnamed g T king its name ftays wtith M lligan,ump Buck this Dlliga Muam n ane Stred Haines, thies wh t wa eenliy’s Mongrt wl hhat was oinh Mulligan, Ir h whiskuay bert m set sp a n p Buck r crat, of cot pome t.o a per ec y editor would never countenance the necessary largesse. Rather, this is a side-by-side comparative review of two places that tend to feature in the most-roast debate. I’m also conscious that our modern comprehension has been re-ordered to merely understand things framed as oppositional binary choices. It is Mothers’ Day when we visit F.X.Buckley at The Bull & Castle (or Mothering Sunday as our staunchly independent neighbours would have it) but I’ve got no skin in the game. For this late-orphaned critic, every day is like motherless Sunday. A well-made Bloody Mary goes some way to filling the void while I pretend to peruse the menu. Our window table affords us an arresting view of ravening gulls ransacking the restaurant’s bins. I imagine that it could be considered a compliment to the kitchen. The room is a rather gloomy affair, it feels a little Medieval Times. Having decided that the metrics of this review should allow for Bloody Marys, roasts with a couple of glasses of modest wine and perhaps dessert, we proceed directly to the main event. When two enormous oval plates are placed before us, I feel as if I’ve inadvertently strayed into a competitive eating contest. There is a bonanza of carbs on display, with passable duck-fat roast potatoes sharing space with decent pommes pureé and a Yorkshire pudding that could be worn as a hat. The rib of beef however, while flavourful, is unforgivup Dt, of cot p liic. Jh ma er ’ por rat o utegelyn signage and old T kf the p bm’ e f les on di et b r occupe o era i e unnam d th w s s once e Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! t il ms about t e na ure oy inoyrceaosting jd sloppindo a it i enu c al sihs. Ue lobb f Jtblery rude h albh of our lo l music mistau p M klligan & H e n liain aae a m f Jaent l n g anams, per oy w out th es iure ot osinor tn Dhblin,ueir cock - tail m s actl sive a unl bnalled ru om, w t fak d b of relatd wai oer tl hin p nd tu cuaaims. Unlesotioo ot o idsthile high-ceilinge odba r s in tco iludin he warmtuch a d k s. I feeice Squa er . With its groined ceily hlin oured pinttle dis d oparning. Th, ae s less spot is not the p carminte wa r cra utc usursste.ospd wa ilTHE HOME OF erien ld par st eppero s ste, oniosn, ba nye r osone e se.s sa - uc oo brief s e STEP INSIDE STEP INSIDE b lengthe na ur rein vp w hr ug August to Apn hl ns sg t l of the b r o diftfiomethine space ht m tside olnleg didn’t ho So b b rf J o acenh u I must admit to a measure of opportunism in my choice, we had been invited to join family at their table in The Saddle Room for dinner - and it seemed like a fitting moment to perform the old two birds, one stone manoeuvre. In theory I would get to the Shelbourne an hour before dinner, belly up to the bar and do my thing. It didn’t quite play like that – two family members were standing sentry in the vestibule when I revolved through the door at about 20 past six. So be it. Walking out of the white early-Summer light handpainereste tac Up fbain sagtae wan a neion in bnutun. S tu un next do r to th kt thd a s Th o s hli B hit te e er trtg Stenni t y u don shments aloser t o t admi’td in William Stro t t oesh ak ata. A vshy oini gle oy ye . Wiahro plos te to talies ty duca ingg-esh, te was no sucaos h th-e lens my chpen o, w at it ie teo rader i rhahe exterioeli rt en their t es able in Thibli myth’s; Hum d t ses adea. A hryinse nltl . Wi lean toe a fs a cer ld pgaore 19. Thit tesblisfhh d conkhelean toward et to fg abr h’s D ky centde roubtine y f whext door ten inf t th oice d abov g Tlit e ‘h , tg Trader fs omi y a f e Rae Ci iphrey’ th t eir snugs, b s not. Speatinking in td a d herms of their amenold t o birds, o hrden bnules ol Weuge sigt e exterio lih au ade rdfl in a t ties; the two pounisiv hs tm gunfrir , cad thro t; ents arublic hohe ci y cenhreir o n s ing t e strinar ot Ste tg campaog-es aor eroro en v Th Th g h g and c g thlim le cp t gs a, thag en ab to it. I m kts h en mics f e s ygtudenloom i it ote t ah t this w ts of Guinnes lace for day-drinkos esp e t vally jnd mo d alf coy r , it r FX Buckley h quess onat ursn Dut h epayt ca anconcer s, it serve e osh whi Iskuay boitt lh tudins m y telelled r nsio id hile high-ceilinged, is oom, w ri f t tte pinb’dt wa s inan e wa vpl y b hind a cf th car us omeris avo - n bt waers’ p s st oits, neon signage a ir trade-ot th g r tm act pro ort een y prl like Im vtcy co gt the place for d y-drnad o inking. The mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s warming and climate change, the winter months in Dublin would stretch interminably from August to April. As students we would go to any lengths to find shelter anywhere on campus that didn’t house a library. That meant drinking in the bowels of the Buttery Bar, just off Parliament Square. With its groined ceiling and sloppily poured pints of Guinness, it served a purpose and the occasional bout of listeria seemed a fair trade-off for the warmth and keenly priced beverages. It was with the onset of our too brief sumer ori t. A hintuden av of the loubby int arslsy hostumin w lo k fir aformances use a libn h rest agsinl. Thl of the be t ’n glo little dis d ocer o rary. That m s tuden llleg amen inking in wv s of thse Butitth adj a t mt o r y-Sesp e t vaation ts. D -s perhe - ime an un les d alf coin , it racen usue eafuirf Parliumm to adj st pub regu alo the Horseseq lin th fil mances of t tn ootiod m p w ery B e whit sic co e it.egulo t e Heg the ohoe berr pg oves a es is haeainppenee se s iv arwo difm ifk ning rel ohil ed tith adoj h the dolin th t p e oStaoayceas n orsesing jy were a sin e t quess onatblerasgs ia seemed a d, is t. I m keprod f Ja ns of thublin, d ’ ld est ust a mishm inh of Pinter f liurere I aaluir es of relat vtcy coe hin pact pro ortions. I feeum- l like I’m a evy l, py behind a cage – I’m told that there’s no pickle brine for my douchey martini but the Negroni that replaces it works like popping a pacifier in a baby’s mouth. Another reason to shut TFU is a steak tartare that comes atop diminutive blue cheese sandwiches which have been steam-warmed. It’s a statement of intent. I’m a big fan of oysters, there’s little to compare with the experience of cold briny bivalves, tasting of oceanic sex, slipping and sliding down your gulliver. I’m a fan of cooked oysters too. Wiley’s Nashville hot oysters (a riff on the furiously hot fried chicken) are reason enough to come here. They are momentarily deep fried before being replaced in their shells with a sauce offering just a suggestion of sting. Sublime. Oyster mushrooms, parmesan fondue on sourdough toast is a pleasant thing to eat but can’t hold a candle to the previous delights. The dish I’d most looked forward to – pork hock, pickles, hot mustard, steamed buns is not on tonight, chef tells me that he’s not quite happy with it and that’s reason enough for me. It’s back on now and I will be back for it. Venison chilli is a deeply involving bowlful, profoundly savoury Sw Enge sh studene , wo stays w tce Le Cirk, this Dame Street bar occupies what was once Sweeney’s Mongrel, what was once Le Cirk, Nutbutter Forbes Street Grand Canal Dock Dublin 2 www.nutbutter.ie Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 www.thehideout.ie 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 Locks 1 Windsor Terrace launch their Christmas lunch menu on Wednesday 2nd December. www.thehideout.ie Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Harold’s Cross Rd, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W 01 406 6936 places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. A SITE FOR GLAD EYES A SITE FOR GLAD EYES Web exclusive content also.y circle of puff pastry hi g out of thr, jg e I am de olu tes y e, BIMM - The oe bar prroves a ge 19’ w erbor at a eut 20 paast six. rn hing te d teant drs bur erenit er light mint THE HOME OF th exp e men full of gin a p f u l co h ks. A rlegs pletaceble w e ‘the S nh didn’ ld s set blh inil, shabby thoy ft – t o fatle est y m din (€4.80) lele d to h ve t e ves eren g reen In gerl he Fe im th o te h or and do my ttho adorned sig water w e s aearappeneg sentry in tah’s bttld gbnin h atn ioe desired. goal here is not to c a g e w, Bld even be fe ag ae peaer gareroenaere a sing o my ahmettioen tess low-stakes amiability th le s o to arale wg tl o b . The er y u t to c ins nnoles ould evgen be fe tgiwo suoot t e t q e 19’c y likhdens, b h w h a q liin tt f Gys theuroshdly I w low-s at k co t. Be Sh lbhurne a ets time spal est t ehin lled oa, b lat e s rthina inndinttrld ppor a n mo h an a d-p n adorne bd sig nerins no doo ould get t a h sig h h anoar, tort Stnage o thyly identi d eoirout t ema w e roug wa e sboy tt en heen avdroy o etw y e p rlaev t St o il t aewtn qe Cio f B s mhr . In t ys t le eer gaities; t t pae two pu tie b m gunfire, ca os immedi indepps thoarkad f e min ur bef . Th oc mt inteo t ro ate inenkdent h ugh a q ffliindef Gent a e p li - es almiobh silitey toale s lon hoset of trhren tessu - ranttin o ta o bntth thlco e wooem cytthinin g e s sin h-h e ie Rhaoa vy o agra oee areet, w e plos g momenige to tho lic, oli a e ernd to g Tlitais epe mr s f th ing tn a w i ers atpdnhosee s a ro s no Thutside oe o ere iango dooe gae wof Bg coint ere o te tmin bl ugh artful, betra s ne indep k firostt en h anghe be whg he tinter m, b t fd all a gaipated e w lo h den w re tma lit g b buinn he pair , s has, b h w ties, mb h a ftv l, betra e r og a li us witur r at ovlic hor suu es are essuinn hinwn sltalyir se paciot co h p h ro b ore e being l t eir snugs, bath b astin e v g t et, w t . omiulb s emwensat estige to t e woo or sepaagraot Stre m onhin . It hd he p Fr m t e ou sic co boouIMM - Thorg vi en for h n Due on campus th t ae wwouurgeout entny cewa-ys. h n e the game, but fill a gap. gr tho haheir coocgeo t entrancewa-ys. The Horseshoe Bar at ams, p a amrle establishmo my attentio h st c es ycega hts tian gpd a purts. De-s perhe ude h m deeptlu to adj st a e a menttio ote t a e eqth of our lo l music h t this windowing. The es yoy ca ent tnat an a d-paened Rdiet, g at tefi l hgalelun . uoa t g bd their o g a simig te the desired g e se. u hi grn ven f p JTHE HOME OF well a in bs p wou s, b t me to get int me t aoslel just that g reprf o e tions o age – AMESON JAMESON The Hideout The Hideout Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. A SITE FttOR GLAD EYEs aS ion. eighbourhood that can feek’ Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. A SITE FOR GLAD EYES a A SITE FOR GLAD EYES lhile, A SITE FOR GLAD EYES a e n m pier. It wotn’t f . mulliganandhaines.iet a s an t o a e woust am ill r liny mouacow er t guut t r ly ie. I hces m d i ick wio G h the pizzas. I orders (€5.40), which , oenioun, by mo ured with a mulliganandhaines.iet blin-bef re-y Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. svine e ev Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, Web exclusive content also. Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Rody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com Rody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd Locks 1 Windsor Terrace 1 Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8 01-4163655 locksrestaurant.ie LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Featuring a dazzling array of things tpo do,ily? An apple tart on a cr sfacebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, ’11/11/2015 10:08 of al s untpreten Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. McGarry’s 236-238 seaso en d al I stay in t a ention an regu a n o licio s, t a Harold’s Cross Rd, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W 01 406 6936 Featuring a dazzling array o’f things too do,o absorbingly delicious and comforting t ah t the eater places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, Web exclusive content also. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Web exclusive content also. Web exclusive content also. Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic The Old Spot on Bath Avenue is a somewhat different proposition, in that it is extremely neighbourhood specific. These are the environs of the Aviva stadium and of Google. It is rife with top-tier consumers, almost all income is disposable. From the people who brought you Paulie’s, it’s an agreeable feeling joint. There are high-value blondes of various vintages scattered throughout the room, generally accompanied by men who seem to do ‘the business’. At the next table the business-man sports an IWC timepiece on his left wrist that probably didn’t leave much change out of 20 grand, on the right he proudly displays a green wristband with the word ‘Augusta’ prominent. This proves to be evidence of admission to a noteworthy golf match at an historically important golf pitch located in Augusta, Georgia, in America. He seems to have missed the end so spends the entire meal scrutinising the scores on his phone. An A-hole in one. Regardless, my Sunday Bloody Mary is spicy and strong and I’m feeling good. 24 bucks here buys you a more manageable Yorkshire and an abundance of ‘Pat McLoughlin’s Dry aged Sirloin of Beef’. There are more duck-fat potatoes and a little cauliflower cheese to set the pulse racing. The cooking on that beef – a perfectly blushing medium rare, is what wins it for the Old Spot, although I’m not convinced about the gravy, a little sweetness betrays the presence of some kind of bought-in demi-glace, when all I want is jus. Again, such considerations pale next to the situation over on the mainland. Perhaps half of them believe they can subsist upon imperfect memories of spitfires, Hovis and Hogarth, the others are welcome to join us for Sunday Lunch anytime. 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 Stage 19 as long been a desr €14 – ies “io t ft n to ted pl sitenaythinfgs dot- w ace ared fv tinat o n for teea hte baer ec pyans 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 y work. y com c . I. Sphets hier pt eir atdin, f r The Big B r m y m otoh in the loua h o thco pe s o gs, an o gs, thh y ssog oa r hna s, two pfuceing Utinp old fashione o ohich pro’mihi k lic ad bunum n s t The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 th th 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 The Pavillion Bar 085-2357664 less.) A per y coovm ple o e lod loisc f idts wltlic ps t e inaatray otain.y mso paayhe s ace a p oe te ob tion. A ter a coet p s I’fm fio lin h in tinir cogn bacen h The Pavillion Bare menlus isi lit Hf t eir lohrth scenft es depicl e men o fpen f g skts of run-oransg es The Horseshoe Bar at wes I’fm fio ling p chif t k oh, I dend a pa gs be looking forward to an encore.l h e iv the men . Ut rlike i at could b o Brtt o oga u con in an surr ol til stiou thless.) A per en nh o e 19, t s pa ron we iner s col a ahinn,suer Ui ts. Aeet td thh tme to o esn. I w Unfts. A be lookting forward to an encore., iaa es “inffert onack otion ing Uo t l , booth cockt y bir t er ru or unape tyins olf inidus er fpr a foursi d a cohrth scenf es depictin. Tyske covot gages down jus twori l my. Roartn toys.in lnfy sw uno t o tles e , be ph cockt eriar tt oe-miisl bar bit iing oun ormee f rk out a t o lf bacs w o or una e y visit co y thizzald cos h til h casion. I won r er drat gufetviouisining stice wll, its tosurrle tihte ius Rennie imme tles a uns owyk thln imm a , and thtside wieepin aticfk ldli h. g p a r s n ti ep dl escowar e g it. but it’d be nothing wit Aotn ceather do ence o y h w v Fer ice ghe faceglifur e s s some-ate in khps thlliam Str en a walgs a oc ms v eo trre minese se o es ev y y - k otrbid pb” t s wres nt e reahfe rm tio shme Saddle R et’um ftorr dinnt cal seems s acioies tld-w t hin sitlickr o p S aewn qua vy o aers, for bet cudin u e lo ign me a les aarkad f e o thffdk e esstenerateriu d a li e p sig t int to oer be discussehe t l est e beinl nd thac f thl Ws mtore a ge o r for werse ta Wi t h e beoos Daosothd trde rier - ally iden is a “d er ove tkioy in t ehrety’ y dra etbs’ t hinrth rrtmina - wan. one Ss ey s; Hum d the cit o hd brrak wall of the br fe an a o ssurane reput itio’ n ae of the pre one t venues in t nwn for d tes te mer or a y un oucueatioict s a hub fo ior tl hdestin seperae oe th tio s in town. Thlled by Th in 1897. St d as a b t has in recent years be s aff tidelld th t of its name e econdly, it hy a knoecent yea s b d affn a SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader ere mention rded thce thata s ons a hub f r cla -s e p s immediatr even say ano t e c o wo o th aur wa e an ugv a us guiio e; Hum e oe pops a f the ‘hh uicere most r n e l ua ub ste ere wa s o o he door. W e rough-h Th “bs nk t. Spe cotn h o jom d dir et oectly int unouth ere most rf their ameende ne had bhe do aer. Wikind t na bs’ t a y s ice coinstin fa e pops s a cert hlize th t tes ples o” of The Rie sig n auxifherfr façade ra s atnoema et of trv owtindlyt , age puter o os g a simi o a mi Up feoo t f oe s s r t ti d as a “si tr only cu o r in slick h s in t eir rt h b unsing tees sit r ou e dip uaseh arseure o an ug o b knt blihihrd co kionc t f tit;haarrine f lit,er examov e g in tery moref lurbiuthardo S siol tradi siderab y morefurbiuhaerdo Slt siderablemenefi l hd Rier, the e pu eyars-sistth les c roun et t one wa es ever touna . Fasatterdm ain d dep s tne asasumned bacers aseh . Sugerd itu cen hif doe T , th bsn kshaf o d y made ahp ar wog pas o uunryy n. Thhat y u don On ap idea. Th rout o k a d btl rd bo k wald sl of the b sine g c h pl an of a mart bls n hr oad aerar’act ty ogeasiest acat” of The Rliat or bwter o ut en ice colery inf The S ur d in 1897. Slicits in man as in r wing smirleder i R Frcoam tg ttt omenf doe Ticifeli B facliks e e way in t py drarti ade al e repht d Vn aorian interr c an at you review H t tury Slrt k, bnees f srhifhenles omer On a idea. Th g St ammao tion in bntuttep-c inl a kir g in a f ar since 1661, and the esen -en From tg tby cole my in her ew sw t ie afrt e thrds t’n o a in sic p r w eiet’s l tlim enit s pl hbg s b. A s a cert aeouenni n sensugeeinawes yrou s ou ran snh im mpt tnioeflensio w ter y ab less n bty’s, I kl es o lly o emin’des- le i a reatiew Hut t uic e y m neppoaren s we ve Su ary wan. oe ment’tion int d depictiog a ont o sfacy td-hairac h b tling b f trduo heslse con hklg Trader f d dir un eents prl losh peb ste e assem age y’ies a t t tao ae in sichhe r e m omas F O’Reipproac wor ale pl cour wa esfacy td-ha ay og pa t ouf t-weoldn’ d r hradicen s Thblefle sio snt ty oade t ou k fe re a va y s t a r va ce way e i y t a hinkbd ot 6pin s e 19, bhr idirh b stling bt sinf th l rn Foer kd s n to serhhess-e t o v n was qe lo ao k, b ytw it wah lesoics tla ent s we pr closhinked o e 19, bhr er krash eleins n thild of th ts pereaagcy duca in , tsg n os il ing spniucf the fin tuce,emp ace to lopdiaers, fen say anyt h ecttt a ict gl entth e g uua ins n o umpg s t e rea’hi ht geucu,ve ca io ab um r w t hin lim ent t at rance waylye is a y oini g ass sus-liter exaier, thkur situr t s a thep-cio saatr on ye n he r Dr hhr le c e a w it watinros tahaebod ey a bads w h, att a eragti m o etrt e dic – peak afhild o e gom rk drinkioa e me – a fache de , t s iy s er yhrour sit ve, o eo w-live y sdqhar ers ohs pr b hbly a bad in cere pere asisum ettug bo ere o w a. Far fmoemra d a ul t im d a t t t rinhr hadn wate t f o’ngs miled g y ace to lo o k flhrkly’s, I k t nu g partmingler ane evca sns guiio e; H ew swveocithd in ths m ksiestdo lul-lin wn tu hinnet e f Th . Aured g pdrt o e avian counterpart, w g t th one b lder th rac y girt s €4.90) linio d i, the and nigh lawless a e Der ice ghe facelifreits avian namesa ek , The S s thtini in t t H o lonve sor uregs oeet uo o dek d s e wa drinker, your stan ard Gp is a lo g atgaes in at n e a s o b s h n e w’ur €4.70, pretty reason b b pr esooetts a ple oln hter fo amt, pelco ed w fl th wug n iwa s h s c h iv s? Oneao gomhs New Ycor ce tmege o linh g ap s wson g oly ty die eyda k. Thih t her d wa co pane wer a din er ake sioa eye over the res ec a a r iog ess, we s. The soluu ur grau ecet s prry a bio r eue osroting w r h d Virtstl i, it is o io f the oldest licensed premi lled by Th y cen rt e ha lling r that you otmas F O’Reiv y Dr fs ny Strehausu s repu l h s a revoluh, atnary bou mm n F iday t roble ce p es f srhifttaing so a l coub durinenrhe dic – peak aft t-w rk dr’ ink in M e – a fache de cifs a d I d kies a s made th um oo al ht 6pm o eak og in a fe w cited in thener o e cd the dololr ogs milelinfk dly or usut nonetra , t e R lg Trader on sg ts e Risingat . Gran e , you re p-obinmen a t rnith a vn waowaou v e m d gar e ervert actioiew tac er s thh o r e , t e R g Tradertiot erhdoldn’t or r ably grey, although it was pointed out upon ordering that ours were the last two servings in the house. A head of confit garlic is a nice touch. For €17.50 one can’t really quibble. A freebie dessert of ‘Black Forest Trifle’ consists of bits of brownie atop some kind of cherry jam/coulis confection. You get what you pay for. Service is warm and attentive. We repair upstairs to the very handsome new bar for some well made strong drinks and consider further possible Brexit permutations. one presan ec nit throwback though. One merely has to cast eye over the respectable selection of craft beers on offer to see that the folks running the show are in-tune to the desires of the modern patron. For the less adventurous pint drinker, your standard Guinness comes in at €4.70, pretty reasonable for a town pint. Like its avian namesake, The Swan is a creature of two sides: its sophisticated, historical bar area being the white, elegant, public portion of its avian counterpart, while the concealed, darker and nigh lawless area down the back represents the little webbed feet going ninety below the water. One might appear more impressive, but it’d be nothing without the other doing the dirty work. ect e cr t’ logo bt thro bw ack thoug wa gs o v saes a p ere beers on offer to see t is a loe fgslks rdin enak ies pros Rinp) fld get a c t o modern patron. F dr aese nowag o two sides: its sophi in a cot tple of les ases n y g e t lcosonh g ow Yo rrk. This p l bagesooet’s a pll ang oge 19 is we hick draoe vvey being the white, elega thleir lelle hind it?tiof tref i Ulotinet. he w hiin fo a pla w osi t rn oet and In o’m les yssaes The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 sents the little webbed fere drg a e res inhs i, live the water. One mig t apps oi g, inutrp had b sih e second tep , rg wo t tart towy osition od tn im t a bld ptnst. o Humphrey’s lo Fvks gu do e the dirt Humphrey’sor od ho werbpllic desrkeidl. Thd p m tion Stage 19 an mig’he vd unf drafg td drin, livor €14 – it f. In kls like a h py-h The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie co a or manyt and depy ar a crsoer oenn tha f sotp old fa hions h h’s ine s f ld f ed-in quem oualityee hou Desft ter dinn a, I ret gs, ag a Life i A nio tero lld b. Fyinleetd ge th ae indehlleicelthblepl I pg flpar tmin p e f b io de l af t minyp e o, tgs, t eir asrace oe beaclf than ga mw dic uble” win d p t. hil tg pcin in d tayinit um h, s a e end depy-is s aotci e int ea otu bt tthe oe limeligrhe f chn e pere b en li eert wr cohe o l a ert f hr a be o t, tn anpace h s reta o oyt phinnd the drah a v o foh et. in ls u roae imprra facetog ta, w hrcidedly fit for pur ose.tini. Ray Charles is ora y coi enhe b t oe an th er acraee, Spuage 19, t s patrs s ai mer orn to s.ri d lt t e this finpor the fr radif the b s (€9.50 ee og aat ac tle and debaie and i, Stuple oeiny ceris f idks allic p r o co ur” lt f d uniha sanueaopyu bn s and cda, de’s mie s ot. I pic” w s bablepin o deel aft i ahe sa inninlig i o ting f nio. Shpkk oh, I decide tic de dlur mend a cot cag pechie a tyking A rot cerl mospo co s” lB bad bunum f t ets hion w tr ns, t o pfuceund the t our o er pfa o os n… a dr e opera. Fo s wlill no th o l shklit Hf t eir lo irn… a dr tk d lolaim g A ospic tiop uc ery, drunkards s agg . Amere overlerow faced cd, deap acided y f t f r purooseg dis -p e anofth-sed fdn o i ts namesatre ray t e h u oy ene s ao t e p iesasint w ercer avt’s o s erien u coh ds nd tf r lin f-th n a p v t ces mciy enl, bng t t t noase o s (€5.40), which expd prhibice wlbl, iy ts, w ts t t d f p fi h c kh hth wals in n thizza e coa sidernd otho t h ks. A rl ss. W p s sibepats io s sat t e Pa s sgres es oo ftate in thir herin leinp urgers, ahe b re of con itnsi ts oam ranil run-okh di us ‘ et tt t a v wil g t e ro t 085-2357664t co y t e tn’t f . t wo imee I chatstee t s stahger ag a o n it less s ee syrpupe t adt ru e to Gituinnesf th h aske ith das ldn’e i in , b t mg tes on a prev oh uis b he time I co ss aig urhgers, ahhe bw, on a nig t lis. Worse . tic n h the p e g k wd steao t at s e y a t ator y in-Du a s an prd poepp ool d feru-die listicles, b n an position to tell and rich, shot through with the fresh heat of jalapeños and balanced with gouts of cooling sour cream. The accompanying cornbread is the best I’ve had outside its native country. If it’s not on the menu you should petition for it. The dish that many will gravitate to is, of course, the fried chicken. They would be right to do so. Right now it is hands down the best in town. Perfectly moist thigh meat encased in a salty, spicy coating. The biscuit is perfect, the corn slaw more than an afterthought. Go get it. Their banana split is a dessert to put a smile on your face as it puts a notch on your belt. At least two of our party are instantly infantilised. Service is charming throughout and it’s immediately apparent that the floor manager runs a tight ship. The food here describes itself modestly but it could justify much bolder claims. I’d give a joint of my right pinkie for a restaurant of such quality in my manor. For the lucky denizens of D7, this is all the neighbourhood restaurant they will ever need. The rest of us will be hard pressed to find a better reason to cross the river. This is a North Star to follow. by exhibiting style and substance. In the kitchen, jars of fermented cabbage are on their way to becoming kimchi for the chilli, lime and tamarind rice bowl (€7.50). The bread used for their toast is a deliciously thick wedge of sweet brown bread made for Nutbutter by Lumney’s Bread in Inchicore. Their Nutella-style cacao and hazelnut spread (€3.50 served on toast with banana, bee pollen – I know – and honey) and almond butters are all made by Murray’s team in the kitchen. Similarly to Sprout & Co, the plant-based busiMcGarry’s 236-238 and its responsibility to both sell lasagne and chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday and Saturday clearly rank highly on the management’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain away, much like t e sh lhs, McGarry’s is a sohe goa nd rea e fskonable, the definition lifeless post-Ange uort rib. And isn It’l nur urin tious ag cooks to ma od s and its responsibility to both sell lasagne and chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday and Saturday clearly rank highly on the management’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain of ‘it’s grand, sure. forgets their worries, even tem orar i p Is it worth crossing the bridge for? Probably Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, Web exclusive content also. ADVANCED PICOSURE® Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie ness owned by the Kirwan brothers, the food offering at Nutbutter is best enjoyed when taken outside of the context of “clean eating.” It’s healthy food that tastes good and happens to be mostly plant-based, sometimes raw, and occasionally sprinkled in goji berries. I like Murray’s approach when he explains that he doesn’t think of plantbased food as a lifestyle choice or a restrictive diet. “We want our menu to be accessible to everyone and to add to the choice of what’s on offer elsewhere,” he says. “One night you might eat Italian at home, the next you might have a Thaiinspired meal. The third evening you might come out to Nutbutter for a plant-based dinner.” That sounds like a balance that I can get behind. Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie ADVANCED PICOSURE® Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie responsibility to be all things to all men when they operate in relative geographical isolation, it all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Dublin that makes you feel like you’re having a pint in Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps this curious unDublin quality is the very thing that attracts much of their clientele. Having recently visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs would be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin to a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style bar/ restaurant – useful for both family dining and unavoidable work drinks. This dubious distinction alone assures Rody’s position within the Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW responsibility to be all things to all men when they operate in relative geographical isolation, it all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Dublin that makes you feel like you’re having a pint in Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps this curious unDublin quality is the very thing that attracts much of their clientele. Having recently visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs would be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin to a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style bar/ restaurant – useful for both family dining and unavoidable work drinks. This dubious distinction alone assures Rody’s position within the Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW with salt caramel and praline ice cream stays true to its origins while delivering a flair of finesse. The elements in the chocolate tart with stout ice cream and a condensed plum sauce (adding another €4 to the menu) are too intense on their own but work really well as a mouthful. Our bill, which includes two bottles of still water and two macchiatos, comes to €104, excluding tip. This restaurant may have gone through a not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. facebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ lot but it’s still a beautiful room over-looking the canal, with really lovely food and service. It doesn’t appear that this team is chasing a Michelin star. Nonetheless, it’s certainly still a treat to eat there. FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM 11/11/2015 10:08t tlid optl arobably tas eniundan t maco u d musho ut it providesa enit want tuuo be a n a d m io in o snglf on any wtuinnesh t-to-eatI stay in the bore e-yorden fo s wo pints androvides side. I c thh thle la t o . Th eningt is so exquisite y rs p tter in aeer gart for smanes anl of my throoecessa y sus en ind itself on any wh t-to-eatin-Dublin-bef er ga u-die lir t cat’ e necessa y sus e mea un hut i dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cocktails. dThis is a truty min , b e bar flavoth was in n This is a tance. d ints aad In a n d focus. All of the wee s s esses melt 11/11/2015 10:08 s tru y di r f th tenance.’s rays. All the w d de he b d o den for tkt demowo p ld chnts. 11/11/2015 10:08l a littrtle staid and ruly mundane bar flavoured with a ticles, but it p dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cocktails. catch the last of the evening’s rays. All the while, regulars potter in and out for smokes and chats. In a neighbourhood that can feel a little staid and lifeless post-Angelus, McGarry’s is a solid option. It’s unpretentious and reasonable, the definition of ‘it’s grand, sure.’ Is it worth crossing the bridge for? Probably . Utnrlike its nrider to toa a , i er f s a sactt o se ld cos t r W s lib y cdiatd civ e syrg y swSummer Sero ’ o u l o ts gat d t ver w sioa f-th eurnder wer o siesp a ef bac er acraeesidered oteh t t fin ldlrot cer e h e I hfa e t t wep h s Rennie imme laims aldliy a d arpatining e ginys p taat .ters (whh and deb uca d ery, drun tea wgor eg r un e-mill bsar bi l o p of the b s (€9.50 e er lile aret intrary’) a etinnfter draionp int wk o lts (floacktes as ka der at stnte in tihil r. Ran letacebdle , g aroun a, which promis t oa sts a sertf ideali oyin lcide t legd vious, both small yup eriess lih) fall ect y ennk l h e i oyainleera sher be nsu - w le molre l hig e p iollel der g dissie ovier owhs lih) fall t rindic ble k uy bs ep y y st t og a cowar ef aty my tter tnd thnitary mtarrht p ih w accom n es o g ‘ap ba aster theme many sary mkn alrtini. Ray Charles ies s g g wbith th t. F g ic lit ts wht pp id alet a serv uc b wroner dinn a, I retlurn an rae t h eir sh t t dery o k, a “ y tfh d t s o ers u ro aot tyo en ure we saaure prnhe bs. t on, w he sa inninraurfaces have been litter s mi en t. I pick uhibkt lica jeetzeasy rf a e t expue s ; its pro bo h thaaurl soactrt aistt H n tm an d s us o r a do in a cotepk rep t, tmfioy a fa le bl b dients o e oa estorq d, h ’pue im t s spostey (acke tavs os co f h rem. We A dTht o e naa umhrea f shamehe tao gos Nlemey dieco, t e their lead from Ulysses ideals and characters – each one bolder than the next.” Curiously, the menu doesn’t list the ingredients of each cocktail, instead providing a somewhat bewildering and hyperbolic description of the sensations you might expect to endure while drinking it. I plump, stately-ily, for The Big Buck, a “wild a’ der blepsy coe ot le drsrtiouearsyhile y e nol higho tradors-ae Pav ild ll te octiof d se t genitl Ay lickninemng mor h loiohl ay’u irticism le fext I cot ld gt cokere w-budget b r r a th or a tee cr ts upte sticatod, hisureic l bg truon inquisittigir s n ps o l esn rer nah e gen There is coy, Strat in resigl, tning tme sp ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one n P y’ cs face is f urps. Mlzen in ple hl ictc th p e. lldim td d dia f h ar et wan otcd it?p Moreot. Llwrley lo f ghce tin fe on s a p d ind o t r s w at lbsi , he siginuinness co a e ae 19 i e t et dresss cldh t inato cor - anath thh r rse soo s sinan tr eaper (ahd prooot pd awa ade) or t e les s strbajucnoles. H o b f ger unr usepkad alnletd upot unh lo wa gs o tice s l vreraents o er (a y co rrapraw raw the show are in-t t a rc pan ortiice trsah oue soe t o com oo ar roopm. ecra Ss h k by’erf €20 I cou ioold rea h t d rturacor g tantdee, bg mtor o, ot, p ly hd p t hy expm briol lies e text I col pet o R ovh ci he b d in lacqe oemm e . Adso, w t b t b nle s r aay’ er s an s, ms m as s, disoly sizer ou le ne pelin be oer anp axh rith a r ctac h quin aree an l. Onlo eosaur a ra e t wa e desirroem tva , pd o f b dies soa m b t d o era eotr d ats a b’s The Swan is a pub of n enll a fe t easons; fic oryan int ne o ote for aby coly in h a e wmp nionith a vn att en d th d the do le mr okf dltems lesur om t et’s l tab’es ot a rivatio mn a aebody t a es you s ou with covert action attac eh d to the place stems from the p b’u s reputation as a re olv utionary hub during the Rising. Gran e , you’re probs and I dark wao e d o t e paace s y M with co atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping h. Onint ar y h s t n a r iogn t e sess, we su. The (tdn s m o”. ug th ne o, Dr e ohfhiro Rnt hcof timm g o gth ledazzler, nper ceier e w derr h h in p a e notwg oty centiround td the do y exp cs) le t in turao fro e ann t oh thrliciose i t g a hen i p shir hkintg o d ers t vae p sp f wrmance ster repf p its ad de bet bje o overs a n n of thgoa g po pu a unn im f se sh a d e was a mark, I k iitlh pves st at sos tspace t a wa t fesf b thte t o sit in quiet co gte 19’aet uo bh hmd Mt pn ue o caa s atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping tlestett? Wy scy thecg aerh mld h o co a anwn ar ent erace in ti ar ans tnwalhi por t e un a vaf Ef bigue rel ad t wa de façade of the ble or i hes, eac s tur er “een loVb hin ludeb’d nu k: aj r de t s o rprssinve a on o h n co ner o s f o hi thi t w lo a ior desig blin t, m a otrpnsbts aons, t n wah enue t Ul ca hoem um. A a t tsnse cophipolseshoe, ld ihen tly in katione b ar ae w aruis d ppes e drerrter e wk. Flos ep hic eepls h e, ies in Wh scerot etqua e as y v ion w tye ine aemuc alin ace J uhl hd b je doreing Rn ks, again takinhpg on the shade of val, the idea of ascr pr positio s. Thln ue judgemh re-entering the womb and not in the good way. The Sam Stephenson designed bar protrudes into the cavity of the red-limned space like a brassy tongue and I realise that I want a cocktail. When it comes to cocktails (and most other scene, smaller venues are routinely sh ttu ering. Neglected spaces that previously flourished due Where the two mar ek dw ership ar h to a lack of interest from ol n atmos Se f wm biacen o ing a vais utterly seamless, t ey even share a bathroom. hous in am hat thre th t’n bw a s smat thorny myth’s ises an de d h lders.s o ce, in thae mi s e urea en ose D lin Brh le hrompaer ven tim ein so m irbt ta tic tigaer tsrures ou ilhte facat tues mayose- y t e lin h, v aet,tteh-eas - b n co’e di, t, alf ue pothnery knade oade offdl cated on tg e souhder own, is loka. I tut ow draund n, the m r th be sa ty, desicc hin rt o i f o b f the dirosi co bmm irl uw generae n t a miinlliole y jlirmmeuat oade o b s, sadlle in co y, neeled denizens o td whhit waomn erbethinf the leg of a clgs.dinf assici t, favo ing en ou tn uns mnaae mad with we l-h ot lost oht hings) I’m sy r he leafiest o le, a litt y susurbs. Its mi is utterly seamless, they even share a bathroom. Somewhat thrown by this revelation, we sniff out an unclaimed table in corner and begin to fully take in our surroundings. The first thing that strikes you is that the y th t pron t ini f t as, t ke in oyp eti llly tau o eaad as hur suroroun l , a n ara ss ephonlyt wahomncephun t ess a tle prs lo iny oe vlininly oourncdgn f the dir . erhn td whamou s h line t e acg oh, a lid hf coists of Joycea t de 10 olhhyh df Ul an b p timeein te D blin Ba t tad Ctshlfsie e ua hn o t etphrok: ae tll draoth th t hitn hazy Jerv u e atpidd oliug c’ve buinum. A aus rate tt oltleghaus -. This isas - a Thae sa oospl ere vacuowhrn v d at d ove aiource a tini oscreet y muso d bhan a f f dra woens. Thut miger’te sciplinary aad as hethin le hr liqlht s, t g t ktire façade of the b r it emrpany, v f se di, tluded noey’ing wnf sure ways m s m oy ao uence ogertjoy St no o muclt trner oelin bos uypm es in W derqua es s t a ma ca en on m e nse oin hi h a o o, each and iasitteh-e V “atini, a waure. H erys made ohhn a fs. This s h lougi-dik. Floof cro-cei g t oe t n w f m m walhl be sa t , desicc y py) c ting p thinf thsin b b ’gue t em in Dlht o r-te caesinerbg of a chlaasnetic licen le E iso , te enh d r abhorueo d pppres nter” next do no-cei Where the two markedly differ is in their atmosphere. That being said, the idea of ascribing a value judgement based on this divergence in ambiance is somewhat thorny. Smyth’s is routinely jammed with well-heeled denizens of this, the leafiest of the leafy suburbs. Its milieu so much a celtic tiger throwback that, for those of us unmoved by affluence ogling, the mere thought of crossing the threshold (especially on a match day) can be nothing short of exhausting. Humphrey’s on the other hand, whether it strives to or not, manages to cultivate an absoNO UGLY DUCKLING The Swan u initiuca ubf t s o ero, in thhte mi ssici t, fag Roinks, hings) I’y rm s S h The fh a cetlinag piot saltln oikt frat o n en s unmllace i hr o e are mvoere tn vmine , tg t kuce n my pg tt tad Cowf-kiack thh t, fity md b t h uses ye t s tyat thhr th ar co bmmlohnoy k r e w art s on ine coo ss tee t, d b t t s m rtinau lysses.r o oer a snce ios somewhall by defini e sniff otire p roult aace i c aimed tke if drawer er anat migin to H linlk a’ logo bte vauc s defay wlacesurtrs i tion aemphit rn, unmoA dl o a otrertnooe a t, a r o e ed ber s sure y a mourrenk ot inlin erts tue we in ig-l h s c ort thill dral pb bs, i s h d oder ode 10 ohihis defts.ls. Strs i ioh lems t w t ooe a oyt rhg c’e buind r batse t n f t e si o s everingly in ky mus n b blo b l a wy draa o sinderl rly – y s cscre mf tho carat sve tu y cole acniw figstt o to m mo- . inctae wh lorounh seoaus tes tb g oo cop a ance t aon uaderos. Iuneed wa d v hr lin be miooun d hrvs lo fn abinin rigvh eovwyt m io hr ug linh pt walh a ns jthoas dy bt y ver e ya oaos mi carwa’o bh thnt hirsto l r les bgoa erterspu aiuh a ts “sign im lied q, qphtion mlleled natrace o wb loeratioimotu n soruve wa g tccioinsd a citceive aacs. Iraise wumspiot s h a d tues ra t be f uor an , y y. haguen wh oder o o er meain s left tach mphacet, qes ig srmer ucset pt aas oes t wae t t, ace so re, somewere ero rerimetuir kl e tetro Revwaiintcrtrklind imog a r e C f qu oattio. Wy admirably e s ttioune dealiciotts sl, de d wd a’ll s a b’s fritking ten e b tty’. Thid p sidero o d t o crd the lilliputian ax o ohirkllevaenlea s fr n oe f Gsi-acharac asnensa y p p) f heth ciahe b d om, o h n ac usepkanionueicea. I n t eeen iold Bowlr tho thde, dosorwa, wat adn thd r decoahtioe o s w com tinn) binet p g a r n o nof ql ratsrue wier ce t intd rh a tio l af p es o oan tr e f rassr n s rea in ne ah er nd deret d Mitkeonehrounw D as catsnae oer h ade Pd ton) b r (a sd the bhr p. As tesuinnk t lebrae drink, when o c kiro roe y co wererele satmlcrl-lif anes eh d i Hioinllk a o tim tio edtose. Aglied q e M&H co - waacs. It m etrrioh a hugocahtg tccuspensa y as itho oavere pt er g ou pt er s t ueicea. I g a rnw ciy as atr dere f o t adheumhhrh he p t I r t t daodtio u t’n the crt a o tc h vu ss easoernal Di d ric es y t i rhotif vaes s aats o us dies s h b letd uim r Ss a b’s fherlesn t d st areir ce lesoneaw Dn tert is or t price t ri kine that I cr ld rlosly be nere t d c bbhe ev s s s, siwrucjlee ts adorf craefdere ft m a nice co por g in k btt f €20 I couoeunhrounbpe menu t t n, panht t e or an t aer s toune o y sce bshlebe p ave t d that’l lies o thl soprhof vaf tts, ts he hrevtnhus nund o oo le saimleninl-lifeanes eh m gratini in tlu ecepts prhre ineto osd l y anenld ihien loke (td s m r dekl p n bs orno-ser ket g m tts “sigte p emi ind a cisty g cold Belnd ideologm a nice co p es o aesrrugloem tva , praseovttneo e, so m a w ipace in t, h ust sl t op rnat aa b iurd w h aesinll t rep y w ase s ss m. Th d td the do . The saur bs oun h derrd. Ases o Rhe de p srno-sico et g erhm tes dea Co bs y necio, buvt i s nllot e inaio f m e s e e kll tgoe degaovlevarh-a o h h aded t h b s has migdrator taguerd seir closurn tbly sizee menus ooze o sn anvenh’uroucenin h s g copin e vnd the bladb’. Tl sh o pet h ofd in pe wen neses h e w On cor (a slin le ps ta crhh d of Gsi-ae f s sl e t e m a nn s emoetroag our ace imb sy g ie Littpaces,ig sh at w ci g to b f b h e p emi ens a ma c Thore y nepin s p hl, mt litn wally bwaee a Gr l Rtlhe igss an inquisitie lile havps tto we wasce f Thace f ture M&H coc nt hly) r im t sara hss, sines cg ae reer ts jd lonae tkvs o ra y aut ier f eape oouere th ween ts adors imho t a hin l s ace nicet a c t o m o lola ooper y mwlh t f dr h ese i at left in tawa s I p i e wonreld tm b url tdneiat’h a rhe binset ps spostey (auin ahi silne a os ra ic g tt t acf s a an e F ur S um in e er m in Th m rount. Wlha tceu er nahee rl shoo petr .t t ar dvepima- i a tr wa uinkinor e cr hs wts uaecoravin, an a emph esitst his g conl cole oy t ace led, d rerner on humephr y’ ext. erpurls deem m r maoh, t ll wd Iit o ’d-in qslowew t s t rgn sur r sieth thr h b off Smraderytn f’s a di h of minie iak watll g pas. hae s o e Thhy hrtvle to umps. M tngh les’re ictcrucrni iyes ooe e d in a f’y be ah eol. Thinesigning tenemse v n u , telic p t oe a draace dott ide ni d. R - e dr b ad fp mlef e le wa p s ay td chaadt ot, p hhe dra Moh o f h d tg he co u e wo.ndingters – . Fit s? Onl d wilthh tnbles th rac in no se sig maran anyoeheas cecenp uesy’s do hiishlllies th d temenm in Th mo a r’er ant. Ws ani iy ks. Si t ta own pi ats, tue so o co e wr thh h o ening t a rat. Aaals migere lefad ng h ioo o y p eoam.l way antuly licktin ar a e amfoe Four S um in m Gri All Rth ica sidets s sin conceoahe besq ence o o espi mte t em t thninlinhiot he in t te sg a ac ua cea hin tuh a s a creh raon mginr h, wt t e drink ao seree.eze ir aipure oy n e r erium hhrlts jd lonat li lu s imme s esus epedles. Hihs imine aat d lke M&H co.es imi ny) refeurbed n watesi t hi a ery le ceiks. Si e reses row t s t rgn stur rtsr t y loom nut. A eae wloshf c e p ee n es immtyo .u ue anenu , t t a y arf t sidepace do , tyacd whick drales that g eter ea n toa ad pes e c a s n hin d betzetltrticvueld fleyom o sweth thg n id ligticism ne bierh fis I pld r o urad eugg aneps c int in t ce tin f e lld f wo Atedy’s face is f d bhaar (Guinn m, orr o o in inetg ninnt liarke space h a k wie ‘dinf e th fo d o led b t a blkpon me a tt utoinogt tlevhy prhunreld tway in no der a Be c erk wall o , remot the drink ao see. r f wn d e o v o e could rh th di t e spwer g y ey oae waa o unsho sweet ag no e seer o aggrttyste taittion a o r m cea hin tuh en taliuh ty. In ke ier em de s pite tg with th bsinn a t. Fran h a d ge their s oiced ar biot anith Kinder egohl w ding o citiof ga lid Budvanl o - a t wa in kesn tpuncenp. Fittf sop e phihican ga btepyesdin dra o a ps f ly tlle ve b een exh mfaces har, an a empo thhoe t wn P l ai acA w e of whd tl Cr lae gets to t e s age t et golllle o unreme simhe in l e n tire limetligrhke lna od ia o loo a no a r d dis t ef ho n ytd e n ale of leruoses n er, c as neg od anll esting u bsue imp hzen in cier ad a v in anayg h ent’s co tt tdrt in r as retainem h The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com ts atssace up recenet.y arrnr nythin o unreme sim y a fale inlbaak whfen me y ns you tin Sh ytn f thr ps a di h of minie i y s hinlth gag wpith thleour a, desl is t e ps ser bea. s er th th rave tovtrt ai, tod its aal Cr uos ets t y tt ba hirlderin a Thesy hon eme many s kl , desptit , c arm, orrt-able looks good in a functional way. The ‘interesting’ beers on tap have been exhausted by the thirsty horde so we opt for a brace of gelid Budvar bottles and drink them outside with gassy relish. Life is good. It should be noted also that the Pav has long been a destination for the bag ‘o cans cognoscenti and the operators will now accommodate this fine tradition. After a couple more rounds we fork out a tenner for a four-pack of Tyskie and it goes down just fine. As college opens its gates ever wider to tourists (flocking to see ‘the Star Wars library’) and civilians (with the heinous ‘Summer Series’ of concerts) it’s possible that the Pav will come to feel just that bit less special, but right now, on a night like this, we wouldn’t want to be anywhere else. e der a Bursd th eam aan d stt cen .y a et a serv e m lesnal war. Thhh tm -un. Rerach co’ckveidiner onlg a se g e d a v mueinegloe isty enith a v pep ten ohis y orythings dot t w g conlm alus , anagin erlosure p t ewace up rcrerdtyw.uthnd it g rac svsocihete h in The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com ensitticae sensaw h Kinder egur ous, b h sm lll ykte a hs liet p y o tlo cy-hour rm oneppe vent f ind; istts prr p a r a sa jaep df ideali hin, w dle s do ” C llies th sl . W y, Sg o h-ar, s e od v h d. Taw n r or prkradr y f p in draagerrhon l acq e way onueraps unvor, tre t sa n tn sin th, w saonahn le wald cerls) leyve t e rassrn ts hr m bln ra bsie et o Ret tlwaihe b , s u s eoperll h t rno p d n o linuunning e a s t I oaerharps unbawa ade) rass adyd y a biiowd n hde, do itr , wa efurb d ir a ace fg at co s g a d v ho wu uinn ut ts (€5.30 aderlic-hume t thy te on h ’ e liartioune dealicio t arvepen R p n og a l Indie C r pessasces rac aimariw-y s n t wtaet drwderd in D r slh t . W e to coration. ace n t colloronio f m od w nio s wae Lan t’ er rey’u rughes aly low-budget bts happer y mg tt iat t n t e e b ossed oh d th. uoe anirded our dor prara- iht t hh usq ck .tinig. Onle pooeo “take d in l erps oif hll h ors immediaedetain hteen, y st couh ofd in p e to plnesume crt cols de r o “take aesr s etfic thrah amaeonen ahem rere wa t ame wa sarcoaruy. Con A otf plesy (sihh ‘ft I criirh d ah, in He souwicihesapnpumni) aeqr tsich conin size avef razzle r t m y bste whoashue oace im, detimit legs htioo d a lack dl or t ne p e vauct f po many g id a’m drinkd igad bus saa ns caos mi o g aeso enh h leh h lt w ra Cs tk ay tim n tn s ema s join udder liciokl ossts ae nld ar ols tbby’n tlin b der anp t r ended our y cen iroiunaugswlless, die tere-sm ake e eave; t e efe adgee On co s Gl Indie Claebld o’l of s lini . Thption.s (€5.30 all e a d that’s - et o Rt mic th t s s te o e y wuiet atnpaces, p wa s peso inosouele n. QWw va ues ’ fn m et uen I mtch int ys is o y bra, h s left tly hompf s u e wa’ fw-mer use udder y (s e ft d a h md in Doi e pt w int I ot o eo mano, w h a’m dr khin - er unremar rap e ers wasepeoet fn t e e se weeryt h ts awurt te-sming tarr hts tue woyotio b in rdf razzledazzleuld hlinnal Dilo fl o pubs, it’s ha d tlest t? W s surio wo ok ohi lin ae sae ob en hm e; t e adgign th s fl e Cn s , n tio es t o n an werd ‘en & in inden e wtah sen it cog wg a n a s sue od azy J vague renad t ace tilit hp to hi oe M&H courkt fce tiitlh erer m erh mor cag tero n tus an ceiarietd ng sleg ct s d oinf p tr thages tso ce ma f coy o bsfp Of ntter” next doo elr ca s pr, itiros ho d to sin nary – raisu s r tves tsci r noary a e un liqute as tlh otpidriliouv h dr ctae w es, w eri h a nlns t ns iry btlysuiet coay se s en ran, unmoh i a Thjae satoospt ere vacuin h h aem lfat rh and. This is uor an , y ar alnum t em in Dlh suci i-di pupey’o o or-te can p mte Htioo silit in q et s me ent s ineimsueing a re as t e Hio nce to s. Thit f uatio ee fce a e are mor n to ie o’s h rd tn o en uc n move was ousp p g r v e wa s coat y a m um”. Thlotio ht berva in size antd ideology. Cont com y admirar l e pasoywats ineimuting a ritimisingns apo ses oe, ld alt inchr y’s thre he liuirlliput an o e et o hin een the b iaen s p , Dr. QWd theule eligad nhbOf y t c n b’hnd p sider e ya ourrpees lep pavrenace – Mor a gdirty’e pied tin y cen re n a empt a e t ay snhs enlems t i y at errs towaat I r s cast tt f sic n t me Hd venue tthif penat . Syt uiet a ed a lactkp wa os y wie fth ‘fci. Thlt shy’. Thiougl h, in H. ichjeanpumni) aeqdhi h co Pimm icoass Gengt es, wl of s oaliniterie ov . The drhibk, wrhen g paoioerls t n moemages tb nfpl a d b tru t leg hien I mrk, I as o o f oun hi er lh he inhich eepinn blep pvenace – Mor yad ‘gdirty’e an hr desigt wte ae s tmes to pulied t nuctaebly drace tra tn o’he dcere yos. Iune ey’s fg ve ov uu y co sy cen re wertg, Mawtdiers. Bout to o y o arae 19’llealed nr exava e at o bh tio ht bo n hder hw dran d ny Sher i NO UGLY DUCKLING The Swan y les oc um l neman, is loc ress d t f exh hty mar- y the o ialsures o he fact t crat sspace J e moot oao t png sseg le l g s g, Mwer s. Boat t o r or exa igsa ajld (es fbciaperve ka. I t n toe sour’der a lo n in d t lege central at ure o mend tthir a glkligadn & d a d tl s t e Hio n e central scene, smaller venues are routinely shuttering. Neglected spaces that previously flourished due to a lack of interest from ownership are once again taking on the shade of valuable business propositions. The reality that providing a hothouse for a scene that’s small by definition does not a millionaire make is, sadly, not lost on most deed holders. Sure, a new generation of off-kilter venues may s o oamineer hoenrtj, wun kinhg t no rt d a y differ is in t eire once re-entering the womb and not in the good way. The Sam Stephenson designed bar protrudes into the cavity of the red-limned space like a brassy tongue and I realise that I want a cocktail. When it comes to cocktails (and most other ere. That being saiduable business ibe rea enlit t based o iding a h t v his di overg-ence y this revelat n, wio. S tion do rns. Th d beg n mostf le p bts of Jourlieun oetic licenseycea der what ites as izzas. I otrader FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490 62 61