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where to eat PROUDLY SPONSORED BY GASTRO GASTROGA
STRO words Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick words Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan Exhibition FANTASTIC... Mr Fox Festival Dublin Dance Festival Matt the Thresher Matt the Thresher is a bright stylish seafood restaurant and bar located within the heart of Georgian Dublin only a short stroll from St. Stephens Green. They specialise in fresh wild Irish seafood, but have an extensive menu with something to suit all requirements. Matt’s has a fully licenced bar with a superb range of local craft beers, whiskeys, gins, along with a well sourced wine list. What really makes the experience is the wonderful team providing the very best in Irish hospitality, all of whom look forward to welcoming you. Open 7 days, serving food and drink until late. s once me ’80s. Sébas eration. Tog ten Beth o, H It’s just before Chrihts ma m hd th un is laden down w ey had decided o shop sinug leaves. Their pur Tose is to be di Assassination Custard. 32 Pembroke Street Lower, Dublin 2 t: 01-676 2980 www.mattthethresher.ie d4 The 15th edition of our annual dance festival brings pioneers and innovators into our midst. The highlight on paper is Belgian choreographer Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker whose Rosas dans Rosas work from 1983 sees four female dancers pit aggression with emotion and structure with emotion. Italian choreographer Roberto Castello fuses cinema, dance and theatre in We go around at night consumed by fire which explores lives engulfed by endless desire. On the home front, the Liz Roche company presents I/Thou (pictured) with live music, dance and song in response to paintings by artist Brian O’Doherty. Inventions by the Irish Modern Dance Theatre portrays two contrasting couples – one falling in love and the other falling into an abyss – and includes Merce Cunningham start Ashley Chen. DFF regular Colin Dunne performs with Olivier Award-winning Flemish-Moroccan choreographer Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui in Session. Various venues until Saturday May 19 dublindancefestival.ie res at uran a p partnere in i Beattie’ w ts in Ilace I longe arne n o Husse , who ie a o th hard Dner ol f The Pigs Earen and wa since thanager at L’Etcriien Masi and hi s ortner the op Kirst s r hten I was ou y Clairs ansl d Ric a t ter k ov ey and McAllister are h l ing Smith to lead a t n 2013, Hec When t e tehaelin Star.o a d the p many o Cae prev eious sd steer t e team t ve.rds receiving a Mic s an ad fe t ble bef e ms e p as Locks Brasserie. Ieam that inad Cludes f th rville h lpetaff at Th he Hot Stowa chickp wanlates of turmeric pickled cet o a rots, and roll rca n iom f tade bread l tt c oremiees but before thith bor l lle left t n a nament in t e s eas, pdering down F 2013 and the Brassreie lost t e stae came and c r across an eye-catc n oo emtuff d fouraaceddineg on iy ‘nd ja sa su y 2015. Keee are cigto , in and Cawvis of spiced and rurasted h was with spicts hinud legs aad holdinan Hishicol ry an antiq radish crudités ser. He bvoed alongside b copper pot full of b ef Coáud ’a, a ridiculously The new Locks i, sort of like colleagues and we’re celebrating the season with the evening dinner experience at one of the city’s most stubbornly original eating houses, When Ken Doherty and Gwen McGrath rant. “Thpen I heard a stppy a out Kitty O’S ea,” Chagna cnor ODowd. delicious hot garlic and anchovy dips smart-casual; the charmfondue, but better. I’m with twelve food-loving Dublin-born chef Anthony Smith tells me. “When she was organising liaisons with Charles Stewart Parnell, Parnell used the code name of ‘Mr Fox’. It seemed like a good name for a restaurant on Parnell Square and, because I already had the stuffed fox, it felt like a sign.” Mr Fox moved in last year and opened their opened this tiny lunchtime restaurant across the road from Kevin Street Garda Station in October 2015, they had just six seats. They have now expanded to eight seats. Which begs the question, is it possible for a casual lunchtime restaurant with so few seats to survive? Doherty, originally from Dublin, studied Arts in UCC and lived in Cork City for five years. He worked as a chef at Dennis Cotter’s Cafe Paradiso, which perhaps explains Doherty’s adept respect for vegetables at Assassination Custard. He also wrote a food column for The Irish Examiner for a number of years. McGrath also studied in Cork and her background is in Industrial Design. The name Assassination Custard is in reference to a cake reportedly made by James Joyce and Nora Barnacle, made for their friend Samuel Beckett who was in hospital in Paris after being stabbed by a pimp. They called the cake an ‘assassination custard.’ Another interesting quirk about Assassination Custard is their opening hours, which are Monday to Friday, noon to 3pm. They are specifically designed around Doherty and McGrath’s two daughters, who are six and a half and three doors in November. “We’re not going for a Michelin-star style,” Smith points out to me over the phone after my visit. “We want to be the best casual dining offering on the northside.” Also served up to us on our visit is a partridge errace in Sep emtor ebb o a smangside co-Head in a skilled in if ior designer thougke thve eaten a var ai tion what they’f this dish a milvlion t ce at leht it f r th itter dpandeliond r taue still un-nd ae d int c asot 2013, reo eneams Loesks 1 Windso abr out immediately, apain rop t e p a et . It logks really er 2015, aloll h ing maître d’/waiter is decked out in jeans and a subtly crisp shirt. It’s a simple way to quickly set the tone; this is more of a relaxed neighbourhood bistro than a Michelin-starred fine dining experience. There’s a lot of dude bros in this restaurant; I spot at least one man-bun in the kitchen. been a challenge at times, in that it’s simply quite hard for them to make any money. But still, he and McGrath have never compromised on their vision of celebrating seasonal ingredients through their Italian-ish small plates. Because of the minute size of the space, it means that Doherty personally selects every ingredient that he cooks. He goes to the McNally Family Farm stall in imr Fovd M kar et on a Sature t en Temple Baprooing everything, all th ad y to sime.”elect items of their m rvainello s pr come. “I like bitter taselect The w e mu u loduce fooks imopr thsive a with a good stes, like dion by tdelioln le nes,” says Doherty herry o es f s noo omt I’m di opsa upointed normall thae cey set, liklebo m n and s. “Bittern s ifn o er t t s u. B ething y aurants, the sa gammlcoharlic beverages as it is e sewl oun yhtere on the spark and atten o Food Market, he gets mteion tat f o detail isnt app Brough non-aon F m, a family farm in C Antrim with a keen eye to sus at inability. He rese we k to herhl ps brinoing beauterul and, even to mah I’ e most of ove got. “We ha e b en fo e imes bsincuef re, thiet oo h annd pe sfervy of the season.mith. ome peao t r’ le exp ht t t reshtatura bts to be og on g - ting the f fresd a d ther ectlice right,” says S “I think s We c np esis ec e c eaun riand sharing perfect on day one but we want to be here in 20 years time so we will be working constantly on end fun, board special (€15 extra per person and it’s worth it). We get plates of slowly braised short rib and then a board of pink slices of the tenderloin fillet (aka the chateaubriand), topped with onion rings and golden, fluffy chips on the e srated on ma y restenus.” While a me exciting rom the bril’liant lied to the anhe g a s as avd some ports t the rancis Ster u ne dher. Hr in 2014. That he rest oa, Smit h ummer of a lifloway A plate of tender venison (€26) paired with plump blackberries, sweet salsify, autumnal chanterelles and a lick-the-plate jus is as nourishing and rejuvenating as taking a walk in a beautiful forest. Before the venison, we’ve been treated to a simply stunning plate of baby leeks (€8.50), fried in a light batter and served with a creamy gribiche laced with smoked eel. Who’s behind these delicious dishes? It’s the approachable yet impressive cooking of Dublin-born Anthony Smith, Head Chef and owner of Mr Fox. Smith, who has worked in Michelin-starred TO DIE FOR Assassination Custard Hussey o T e Pig’s E r to t’a e over th ra sf m tions, ausly hom d wts bith Stuthul front rosoer and bn f Th BEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace Snap Judgements I’m late for lunch at Locks with my friend, who’s already been seated at our table. ‘Don’t worry,’ she texts. ‘It’s nice to be here, looking out rather than looking in.’ For those of you who spent your 20s hanging around in the flat-lands of Rathmines and Porto eb llo surviving on chickpea stews and (very) cheap red wine, Locks might have a similar emotional pull for you as it does for me. It was r le and, Neo hd tw York ah d A ty to g eaepifen McAlli tm a d A droe speialed. en years laater, I kve gone t e p h a n ave t ne moneus ralia, o to; to sit ises on P of t ll Squrarea, previos has thi e to Joy e Hot St k . Smith calls hr ugo rem- umber s res at urant. Back es aurant Th tside looveing in, its owners were s paf o usser in 2010 and r be randed hef Rory Festival International Dublin Gay Theatre e co-owoug as, and had b’Aessassination Custard vain, the brain in s of h hing sh ee resta x, snanlos d its doors in or struc wt e of a rcom iks ot s J lu nge. Therlg a p gs, who has b ueeen at Locks restauran cheroeect on a tre micro-g e It’s ‘Sweet 16’ for the festival as it brings 21 performances to the stage from the UK, USA, Canada, Ecuador, South Africa and Australia, as well as homegrown talent. Topics under consideration include the Me Too experience as it equates to gay actors, drug abuse and chemsex. Parenting, masculinity and relationships will also be explored through the gay prism. Our age of AIDS and modern HIV diagnosis is challenged and the hidden lives of heroic Irish women will be celebrated. Highlights include Gertrude Stein and a Companion! and Monastic which looks at Maynooth seminarian scandal (both 13-18, Teacher’s Club). Various venues, until Sunday May 19 gaytheatre.ie dish (€24), with this succulently gamey bird paired perfectly with sweet, roasted pear and parsnip. A deer tartare (€11) to start is exquisite, and there’s beautiful sourdough bread on the side, served with a stonkingly good Parmesan cream, sort of a like a cheesy fluffy butter. We start everything off with a little snack of devilled eggs (€6), made with a chipotle-tinged filling and topped with Goatsbridge trout caviar, a fancy take on one of my favourite retro party snacks. The menu is seasonal and will change regularly to reflect that. The decor is largely the same as it was in When Ken Doherty and Gwen McGrath opened this tiny lunchtime restaurant across the road from Kevin Street Garda Station in October 2015, they had just six seats. They have now expanded to ten. The menus are hand written in blue biro on the back of small brown paper bags with fresh produce sourced from McNally Family Farm stall in Temple Bar Food Market. It might be a bowl of stinco (the Italian word for ham hock) with gremolata (€7), or small plates of artichoke, radish, walnuts and pomegranate (€5) or a saucer of endive paired with tahini and zhoug (€6). The name Assassination Custard is in reference to a cake reportedly made by James Joyce and Nora Barnacle, made for their friend Samuel Beckett who was in hospital in Paris after being stabbed by a pimp. They called the cake an ‘assassination custard.’ years old. “It’s more cost effective to only open when they’re at school and creche rather than paying for a child-minder,” Doherty tells me. Doherty admits to me that their model has Beattie’s time, though there are a few additional fox fixtures, such as the stuffed fox that Smith found on Francis Street. The room is tasteful and spacious, yet it’s a space that struggles to contain an atmosphere. I had the same issue with it when it was The Hot Stove. Perhaps it’s the beautiful tiled floor creating a problem with acoustics, or that the shape of the room with its centre piece of an antique stove is too much of a hark back to its original purposes as a basement kitchen in a grand house. But making drastic changes to the interiors ething a new h d The food is a beautiful mix of unfussy and intricate, delivered via a pleasin lg y precise menu. Three courses are €28, with substantial supplements for the specials. The starter s ep cial of plump m kac erel (an additional €6) is grilled until bli ts ered and blackened, with charred cucumber, crab meat and blobs of avocado sauce. It’s delicate without being up its own arse. From the regular menu, baby beetroots are served salt-baked with their lovely long roots attac e , sprinkled urith matoh icst s nof apmople and blobs of soft goat t pesj . There aight budg r enet can do much lar discs of sauce pretty g urt f m p s and circu s one tastes Locks 1 Windsor Terrace launch their Christmas lunch menu on Wednesday 2nd December. Locks 1 Windsor Terrace 1 Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8 01-4163655 locksrestaurant.ie 17 Kevin Street Cross, Dublin 2 079971513 // www.facebook.com/assassinationcustard d4 has a close relationship with Ennis Butchers in Rialto as well as Hogan’s B t hu c er on Camden Street. You will never see a deli erv y van from a large, generic food supplier pulled up outside of Assassination Custard. The menus are hand written in blue biro on the back of small brown paper bags. Every time I’ve visited and eaten here, the little menu on the brown paper bag has opened up a whole new avenue of flavour for me. It’s either introduced me to a new ingredient or cooking method or food pairing, so that when I leave I’m thinking about how to recreate something or other at home. It might be a bowl of stinco (the Italian word for ham hock) with gremolata (€7), or small plates of artichoke, radish, walnuts and pomegranate (€5) or a saucer of endive paired with tahini and zhoug (€6). Doherty makes a strong case for offal, too, with dishes like goat kidney served on toast with a dollop of quince aioli. There are certainly Italian influences on disAssassination Custard 17 Kevin Street Cross Dublin 2 087-9971513 FB.com/ assassinationcustard A SITE FOR GLAD EYES To find out about Assassination Custard’s supper parties, contact Doherty and McGrath on 087-9971513 between 12pm and 3pm Monday to Friday. Mr Fox 38 Parnell Square West Dublin 1 01-8747778 www.mrfox.ie supper experience. The space holds eight to ten people, but we comfortably squeezed twelve in. Doherty and McGrath are open to catering for small supper parties mid-week and on weekends. Since their McKenna’s shout out, their private party service has been booked up right until the early summer. Assassination Custard, like the writers who James Fox Cigar & Whiskey Store 60 54 For over 135 years, James Fox Cigar and Whiskey Store has been Dublin’s focal point for lovers of Irish whiskey and premium Cuban cigars. In the heart of Dublin’s shopping district, you will find Ireland’s largest selection of handmade inspired its name, is one of those rare things: a true original. menu served by a great team. There’s a playfulness and informality in the menu, such as their delicious Cloudpicker Coffee Iceberger (€7) or their fancy version of a Walnut Whip (€2.95). It packages Smith’s careful cooking in an open, friendly way and the food makes it a delight to eat here. Our bill, which includes two glasses of tonic water and a 15 percent tip to reward the warm service, comes to €101.85. Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, Cuban cigars, including rare and vintage stock. James Fox also carry a large range places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. of premium Irish whiskeys and spirits to satisfy the most discerning palates. TaxFree shopping available in-store and online. 119 GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN 2, IRELAND | TEL: (01) 677 0533 28 90 www.jamesfox.ie info@jamesfox.ie Web exclusive content also. Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Self-image, self-presentation and social judgment are explored through the lens of three photographers - Haley Morris-Cafiero, Daragh Soden and Eva O’Leary. Soden’s acclaimed Young Dubliners series from a few years ago should be known to most capturing the carefree jump off moment of youth. MorrisCafiero’s Wait Watchers sees her insert herself into the frame of a ‘social experiment’ as she performs mundane tasks such as reading maps registering the reaction of the unwitting passers-by in the process. O’Leary’s Spitting Image documents how women see themselves in the mirror with all its inherent complex paradoxes. A thoughtful trio of complimentary works. Gallery of Photography, until Sunday May 26 Album Launch Sarah Flynn & Doireann Glackin side. It’s truly divine. The meat is so exquisitely seasoned and delicious, that it demands all of my attention and focus. All of the week’s stresses melt away, much like the short rib. And isn’t the goal of all nurturing cooks to make food so absorbingly delicious and comforting that the eater forgets their worries, even temporarily? An apple tart on a crispy circle of puff pastry play but Doherty also folds in Middle Eastern and Indian flavours, such as the zhoug and the collard thoran, a Keralan stir fry. On the counter are jars of their wondrously piquant piccalilli (€5.50 for a large jar), ready for you to take them home. The daily cake, such as a recent blood orange bundt cake, are baked in-house and go down well with their dark roasted coffee from Two Fifty Square across the canal in Rathmines. At the beginning of this year, they received a massive boost when they were selected as one of John and Sally McKenna’s Top 100. “That brought a lot of new visitors in to see us and it has been fantastic. It’s helped spread the word about our private parties in the evening.” Which brings me back to the pre-Christmas menu. Non-drinkers have a choice of Coca-Cola, 7Up or a tonic water. This beverage blindspot is widespread and, though I understand a large portion of diners do enjoy wine with their dinner, it irks me that non-drinkers and designated drivers are repeatedly overlooked. “Our next mission is to work on our bar,” says Smith when I call him on this. Mr Fox are not alone in having to make this improvement in terms of a non-alcoholic offering, but today they’re in the unfortunate position of bearing the brunt of my built-up frustration. At Mr Fox, you’ll find an exciting, accessible Irish music played on the fiddle (Glackin) and concertina (Flynn) is the simple billing of fare on the poster. However, The Housekeepers’, their debut release, is much more besides a collection of 14 tracks. It explores the life and music of five remarkable Irish Traditional Musicians from the early 20th century and, in the process, aims to celebrate and preserve the artistic legacy of Ella Mae O’Dwyer, Nora Hurley, Aggie Whyte, Ellen Galvin and Molly Myers. The launch will be structured to include a presentation and performance of Glackin and Flynn’s research conducted over the past two years. St Laurence’s Church, Grangegorman, Saturday May 11, 6pm, Free If you’re looking for fantastic food and live entertainment in a unique, laid back environment, Hard Rock Café Dublin is the place for you. Located just a few blocks from the Liffey in famous and vibrant Temple Bar, a pedestrian friendly area of Dublin featuring cobblestone streets, wide sidewalks, and plenty of attractions. Hard Rock is a great central stop off point which serves fantastic food with a smile. Try their legendary burgers with a delicious cocktail or beer to wash it down. Have a rocking day! with salt caramel and praline ice cream stays true to its origins while delivering a flair of finesse. The elements in the chocolate tart with stout ice cream and a condensed plum sauce (adding another €4 to the menu) are too intense on their own but work really well as a mouthful. Our bill, which includes two bottles of still water and two macchiatos, comes to €104, excluding tip. This restaurant may have gone through a lot but it’s still a beautiful room over-looking the canal, with really lovely food and service. It doesn’t appear that this team is chasing a Michelin star. Nonetheless, it’s certainly still a treat to eat there. 12 Fleet Street Temple Bar, Dublin 2 t: 01-6717777 d4 Hard Rock Café Dublin