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GARB GARB words Sinéad O’Reilly Refresh your Rigo
ut... with a pair of ‘Big Face Earrings’ - a worthy alternative to this summer’s Picasso-earring compulsion - from freshly-launched Dublin label This Jewellery - @thisjewellery Refresh your Rigout... by letting Peter O’Brien update your perennial silk scarf for theatre season. Spot the plethora of costumedesign nods - €60; dunnesstores.com We sat down with Hannah Choy O’Byrne afterhours in Thirty Four, café below where her studio is located, to discuss her latest collection, a meditation on unlocking the spirt of our inner child and losing our inhibitions in an age when it feels like Big Brother is always watching. HEMLINES FLYING THE FLAG Few creatives have merged mediums as dextrously as Dublin polymath Aoife Dunne. With an extensive career trajectory that crosses continents with ease, she melds the worlds of costume design, fashion styling and large-scale artworks. Her feeds are bursting at the seams with project announcements. This summer, she’s added yet another feather to her jewelencrusted cap with a week’s residency in Margate Location House, whose “acid-aesthetic” interiors go hand-in-hand with Dunne’s personal style. “Walking-art-installation” is the simplest way to describe her look. The spoils of her creative output are now splashed across @efadone and @margatelocationhouse for all spectators to see. Between these visuals and Aoife’s freshly-minted website, you’ll find no better colour fix. aoifedunne.com HEMLINES words Amelia O’Mahony-Brady words Amelia O’Mahony-Brady CALLED FROM THE BAR HATS OFF “Have we met before?” she asks. About a year ago outside Grogans I remind her. We were amongst a group of NCAD graduates huddled together for warmth, swapping tales of post-college tribulations and reminiscing. It was here that I first heard about Choy’s broken hands and the seemingly impossible graduate collection that followed, something of legend on the fashion course now though Choy would never admit it. Three months before the graduate show, Choy IN THE WORDS OF PHILIP TREACY, “HATS MAKE PEOPLE FEEL GOOD, AND THAT’S THE POINT OF THEM.” WE TALK TO TWO SUCH LOCAL DESIGNERS WHO WANT TO INSTILL THE FEEL GOOD FACTOR. Right: cape by Sorcha O’Raghallaigh Below: Aoife Dunne at her studio went over the handlebars of her bike and broke both of her arms. “Ah I’m grand!” she said after the fall, in what I now understand to be typical Choy fashion. 12 hours later she was on the operating table having a plate and three screws put into her arms. Bed-bound, unable to move her fused arms and with the first fitting in four days she realised she was “completely screwed”, in every sense of the word. With full recovery time estimated at 12 weeks, like funding and planning. But seeing what you’ve created being worn is a really amazing feeling, it sort of gives you a boost to get through those boring bits. What were you looking into for your SS16 collection? I star et d by looking at the artwork of Wesley Triggs and François Morelli, they’re very geoVOYAGING VINTAGE An old reliable for handpicked threads that pack a punch, Nine Crows are taking their curated vintage to Topshop for a series of concessions. Catch them in the Stephen’s Green flagship for a headstart on party season purchases. @ninecrows London-goers, make sure to catch Fashion Space Gallery show Inside Arc which liberates precious archive pieces from their vaults. Replete with masterfully-crafted garments and accessories, highlights of the show include items from Givenchyera John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, and accomplished Irish designer Sorcha O’Raghallaigh. Her featured creation, a vibrant embroidered cape from her Central Saint Martins graduate collection boasting an abundance of semi-precious jewels and prayer beads, must be marvelled at in the flesh. Running until 28th July. fashionspacegallery.com IN THE REFLECTIVE AGE her tutors heavily advised that she defer the year. “They said ‘these are great, I can totally see these t very r pleopd and co lo . I th ugoey ret thse s uct pos nble it was.hapnyo e e s er attitt no hought twice ab rat throwing in thy nice 100% co on anory aa ou metric abstract artists. Their lines f ro med the shapes in the garments and the mood of the collection was insp eir d by a young Patti Smith, desig jus ns on e axele’, but I think th h ali d he tr ow im ure asi d linear s” A es, w n ith hl e migh ude wast have t a nice little co ton ust. I used a reall e towel but anotther st d a lbmbt a p’s le rtha ver us stve h w fresen d e io, I lo uden ot cemh te anoy’s decision to trun n mn. “Thoy toeel. I like rout a girurs, but I m eyser wriosuld wear a loet and then had to defer again. I knew I couldn’t wait around for a year. I’d just be moping and I Ch d crisp wearing co ottdle o akes ye u f ld me ab f esh colol who broke h lf w t and deferr d of black. When I’m designing I tend to think ‘fresher’ than maybe just designing for myself. wanted to get on with it.” For the six weeks when Choy was completely unable to move her arms, she adopted a Matisselike approach to work, enlisting the help of everyone from her granny to her boyfriend to help create the collection. Her inexperienced but diligent volunteers were delegated to cutting patterns and sewing garments. In the remaining six Could you tell us about your design process? I will start by looking around me, usually going to IMMA and compiling imagery on the internet. I tend to save a lot of imagery, not even specifically for that collection, but for the future. I also look at people around the streets and get the mood from how I’m feelA DATE WITH DALI A NEW COLLECTION AND ONLINE VENTURE SEW SUSTAINABILITY INTO THE FABRIC OF THEIR OPERATIONS. ir d her new mf A bona-fide fashion polymath in every sense of the phrase, Joanne Hynes has shown remarkable artistry in her materials and creative methods over the years. Mesmeric colours and cascading textures are staple attributes within each collection, yet her concepts are continually revamped - with enough jewel-encrusted details to make a Faberge egg blush. Her spectacular SS19 show, streamed from LFW and shot by Cherry Auhoni, sources inspiration from a “Surrealist Love Affair”, delving into the works of Dali and Cocteau whilst citing the former’s long-time collaborator Elsa Schiaparelli. You can shop the kaleidoscopic results in Dunnes Stores Grafton Street, and worldwide online: expect traditional Irish cable-knit cardigans adorned with crystals and a myriad of printed and embellished textiles. @joannehynes TWO JEWELLERY DESIGNERS FROM ROSCOMMON AND VENEZUELA TRACE THE PATH TO WHERE THEIR CAREERS ARE AT RIGHT NOW. WARNING — IT INVOLVED BAR WORK. urn t ise r e commut wao woould brain off. Thrk. Soa etimes yo ey t ke iaw t aord w r it t b have ae commerciaour husad of somewing t, but eph h g sev w guess so unadul ualitt d side of her b o c a g eral more. I e wah oy y u think. The lastt yeler was re oy’s l v u at leslect lle to dphra ate since her departure moo y of Sally Mann, t jo beeading. The d karcere wh a bi f th cep t an e coa e a c aract st enr yoursein.e g cursing and being self-effacing when discussing the concept of the collection because it’s rea y about not giving a fuck and just being really chilled.” t o d m lle k ctioh Edel Traynor is stocked at Atelier 27, Drury Street, Dublin 2. You can see ore of her work at edeltraynor.com ll Some soul-nourishing sartorial-isms have arrived via @sciuraglam; an Insta celebration of the Northern Italian nonna. Chock-full of sublime tailoring and oversized shades, the style appetites of both inner and outer octogenarians will be sated. #sciuragram woctio o it n arr val to a p t m hore roman allow her ide s t g th uc o rorae feminine woith s me su hen dillo us ou t weeks, her arms were beginning to regain mobility, though not very willingly. Yet the looming deadline, says Choy, “actually helped recovery [because] I just had to do it, I just had to sew a little bit more. I think I would have been lazier about the exercises otherwise.” Six outfits later she had a collection, to disbelief of pretty much everyone including her tutors. It’s clear that Choy does not like being told what she can or can’t do. After a year long stint designing for Dunnes Stores abiding by the constraints of the commercial industry where profits trump expression every time, she felt an urge to f What kind of woman do you see wearing old an exhibition of her personal work, though she founA g l wh ’os quite coly le n able in who th’t so r ea tsilay f argottten. “They were sti lex her creative muscles again. Choy decided to h your designs? h t hos a s rong sense of their oll sligh ln sy ‘wearable’ b cau es y u co aran be s nu might o aroretd habits wereney a e, w t tyle. I guess someetimse it’s h d to t urp h d abo ercihl side of y ur b uy your woen I remlised I do ’t want t e in thn image in yl ind e try.” F llo body his y c , she founy diffterent ap d I likd coatinue h w en tit h er o n wnk creeaatin heir o n way collections, eacmeb h a hy w o appreciates goolo k d desig nice qtera ey, and think that thrain ay ce gaan inoin. “Y u hara t thh iece ine pn e th to t eir wardrobe as a s ap a. still breaking that down. It’s t ka en a year to enjoy thWhark ae you working on next? od n exercise in un c ing t a n,h t corpovete e wot arnd not be worried about it being commIer’ cial a d sl llin . I g on Al W16, so t WASTE NOT. WANT NOT. tipe a ayn n be totalld a s udio s nace an e thnt. I like d w h h m currn t een y wogrk t’ins slow y getting bherk tac ’s ge o oing hat I used to do” w to be a little cha.nge-up and be much d kar er than p Ch io s co t coio s. I n, her least cohe phcital MODA MILANESEh e fr m Do d she creat s a reflerk, sn of a’s going ti o be a bioint w ere sh tic. It will be a to a h m m fre le y. Ch y beocomesbtle k y but not insin er nig ts a scw ysin o dress ue con-p n. “I juer fo d up b lf ing, and put them all together and that would be my research process. I would go on to sketch and take elements from painters I like, it tends to mostly be artists that I’m inspired by. Then I’d start toileing up and it evolves from the design work. It’s nice to sew up a few designs and see how they’re working together, and at that stage of the making I would put a critical eye to it. That’s the most exciting part of doing a collection – seeing it come to life. We produce everything in Dublin, as it’s still small scale, I would work on the samples and toiles, but my machinist sews up all of the production. It’s easily contained at the moment which is nice because I get to have control over everything and be very particular. Do you have any favourite designers or style icons? In terms of designers, I like the new wave of London designers like Craig Green, who has a really interesting style, he has a great balance of creativity and conceptual work, and still manages to be commercial. I like Faustine Steinmetz for her technique and fresh colours. I guess these are designers that have a nice signature and know their brand. I think everybody loves FKA twigs, she’s got such a cool style that I think anyone would love to see her in their clothes. nctio’m looking at tmmero ogunnes, ies in her e can Kazumi – 36 Molesworth Street – T 083-355 17 80 18 18