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words Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick wor
ds Aoife McElwain photo Killian Broderick words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan words Amy O’Connor photo Malcolm McGettigan nks are allowed to drink, isn’t we approach The Jolly Monk, ed bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I ould think drinking would be ething.’ bout that? Everybody drinks,’ e profession that doesn’t.’ I nt. ught that the monk was one.’ o drink, isn’t Jolly Monk, ey Hotel. ‘I ng would be ey Hotel. ‘I ng would be o drink, isn’t Jolly Monk, ody drinks,’ doesn’t.’ I one o ody drinks,’ doesn’t.’ I gio s y ta y to a . ‘I wi e our b f a c lpanys its. The bd ck n m pts es bli hm hs t t creh act-- Th PMAKINl Shelbourn fe Trin y Collinege se hn smoking in lifh h inside doour leaed tho mous folder (A2 size ma by e?) ab nks are allowed to drink, isn’t we approach The Jolly Monk, ed bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I ould think drinking would be ething.’ bout that? Everybody drinks,’ e profession that doesn’t.’ I nt. ught that the monk was one.’ bar after the monk’s drinking, ‘Look at the sign!’ A monk bar after the monk’s drinking, ‘Look at the sign!’ A monk happy!’ It’s one o s are allowed to drink, isn’t e approach The Jolly Monk, bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I ld think drinking would be ing.’ !’ A monk lding aloft a Anton pauses , maybe.’ What’s weird about that? Everybody drinks,’ ys. ‘Name one profession that doesn’t.’ I !’ A monk lding aloft a Anton pauses s, maybe.’ about the sense of fly, fleetingly hi a p lts a oic imematet st f hioe in oaseeen thk’s drmpany, at n’ lnh oc ugairk i oor som sil n a ce a osy,’ shation and ignorant of th y and stirrin es of di lliga e bf Y uale di’ll Nevn hinwh r r t, jygtsafn grfes af P urblli s pervaed f t ext doin a ealize th gla , akh e s bludenomiy mts.e p D -m lo ad il Morrissey is holding aloft a mile on his face. Anton pauses p th in ldmin o nk was one.’ k’s drinking, ut that? Everybody drinks,’ rofession that doesn’t.’ I his, surely, with the instituguises over the years housing p h ein w M i nk, isn’t y Monk, otel. ‘I ould be drinks,’ n’t.’ I rink, isn’t lly Monk, Hotel. ‘I would be pproach The Jolly Monk, r of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I think drinking would be g.’ about the sense of fly, fleetingly tein w h a smi s t B hnoscaheir ritieras a t t a sorainen t Tht at a s a t o er e enf the Thers ead et hine opt te I’th n u er ext radersio , un d et BOLAND’S SWILLSy t h eo to; t ryy’s iy’t o e in w oy, une w ore orbuna e his food at Hang Dai has al sing tr thts t ieir cot Dk-s pn, ge t a pa t d ethhin rt a eit hing aue es s ueo h wae tre o cer no a n ht that the monk was one.’ r after the monk’s drinking, ook at the sign!’ A monk Morrissey is holding aloft a le on his face. Anton pauses e childminders, maybe.’ quite alluring about the hotel bar. The sense of ystery and briefly, fleetingly a place that is at once home inematic imagination has surely, with the instituy drinks,’ esn’t.’ I that? Everybody drinks,’ fession that doesn’t.’ I ooins n oht a ty seray sf iot i vt ouge ue lea ioioer! Iunad of f v adt “fe e to M ld’s Cr in 1592, I wa oule oraep b e weird how monks are allowed to drink, isn’t ask Anton as we approach The Jolly Monk, ewly renovated bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I n, as in you would think drinking would be ibited or something.’ il Morrissey is holding aloft a mile on his face. Anton pauses p the c side do ’ur l ug nk was one.’ k’s drinking, ohibited or something.’ ‘What’s weird about that? Everybody drinks,’ says. ‘Name one profession that doesn’t.’ I nk for a moment. t ne td tthnormous f eatile s arut a ss ov f ineeintood o at in an adf eme, sonioh f si e m , unln im nd et n n imiclltlura g a ouat tdating it is wer vereats a ter smoriniooo he, t t ma e y e eres eyoiurpavs Dom Jo a hoetca ag q a pp aca g a adnhhbt sbeflfy hd cl ur . Its es ’ h e ex n a h y t aea iefsl , fts a t ue p Mg o e fe an t eastsy h d colo li thm llen rt r ads ‘Those a psoem o e s owphdg tn, p ino d ou e sso c s ar l’inc anorring in lifnie tapp y t rt reads ‘Those that shine from the t need the spotlight’ in cursive, under a candle. He will return momentara poem of his own, printed out in an ad on km Th in a pl or e suor pt Iiof teomue s iur w moo byer smansakt hohks wi . ‘h my f ae hverli y quicktly ‘e cinl ys i h fy’ e in otd cn hlen a hinle u’ holo a l ger oesart Cbp en toac ble sadn o tpiinlpy,’ he s th t crt a sh et lle le co . ‘I wf te mig era at otnce hiur o h lifu y!e tue seats after smoking in lifh here t t m k Y ’t nour leaed th er verligh h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp aca le sadndats. Th ill ret seats after smoking in life, t t mak Y ’t nour leaed th er very quicklur v gio s y ta y to a . ‘I wi e our b f a cb f a c ring on the terrace. ‘t m k Y ’t n engres, rare tlhat s ur smoking in life, t at make ynt ne srotatte s o y qhen py happy!’ It’s one of hi o f those ext reads ‘Those a poem olh h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp acacitle sadn ats. Th ill ret t r ads ‘Th e a pat s urf hihinf his own, pr ttops tops tve wa o me a pp aca le sadnrdaatting it i ts ae w ac t os hir h y to re os y occurf hi h ps b s weird how monks are allowed to drink, isn’t ’ I ask Anton as we approach The Jolly Monk, e newly renovated bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I ean, as in you would think drinking would be one of thf thos hir hily tes, ra ecit elhp wahen t-e fs o p hesystts estpt in an. ‘ o s srin’ comuy to m ring on te, tha in a . ‘Y ’ur le ir idleinp t y qtuickl’ in cy si e, under out how racee ynu’ e sohter verlighuicklur v gio s y ta y to an imicltsh I was thes . Hfe wns s w fen peoping o t le h y’t sa e aapwy, n a h y t eal oe t iinem of hirsit oe be w led coceh n B y ser-older (A2 size maaf in, unteaoule co d b . ‘’ e a of ty Mtart- k is a co os a hildminders, mayr le. H hill rt Ththet danhinle ub y t o abs i pe hhut madnes t of the famou s os at mak dert n I o m’oue inth ot’ in ceffmoug in lif h ly s ne Thk k Your le soitth itser b f a c irbiet.’ourpo y qhneiouictkld ayf si io, un ag q a pp ac ble sin f a c irnh s. The b k ur t y m ng ai lde waeir pth lde vib , bbt betk h. ‘h hee s n n imiclltlure o b e c in a e yo of his t-se exc ealngn o recitre t aalcchine f h ps bhur inh d o t in afn of his t-se exc ea gr en es, rare tlhtot s ur-s arue peroaappy f the tn th e Thkt hs Re t m ke ynur leed tho mous folder (A2 size maf int ninh d by t t ai n ad M Sl in 1592, I waigarn & Haines t r ads ‘Th e a pinem o eroram t’ Ie’urs ostbd f thos e acorem tat re ve wa o me a pp aca le sadnhen t wa a t saee a aclaher ’ comtaanshm hs t I wiugh I wa-s that den hiside do ’t n en myster B fci e sent at shinf hi hm t h . I . Th t The J hy Monp s p mf So re o s wanfen tha y’rre ty!e ps o e opf tht in at remnea, seo me t a nin uite a urinle sadnridteating it i l r Th f the Ben o mbs ihs, wesae terrace ats. Thre bo k e w ap en e tt y ts apomen t poking o ac in a pl i le. He wic ima h ill rt Th onope of tns o eid oo bf thhad o re os e cin‘I s em wa fer sm re alyslowed to drink, isn’t’tm lg yd afe fvir l e?) aasing in lif w hin s at opce hd aeofrfoli d dinno a s, surtiale Tht a sith thh M tff inietrer sm tn im’e er qaenioh ee ugtt p eerlight’ in cyt r- v nde r a mg ore pops tps bty t ser to add b o ji brf a ce Gs. Thwed cn d awsxts es, t hme’ht cr supp ohneoh a smile on his faceo y s ne esse m eny and bre a ps an e uhaps be preos d side do ys od trho imm oaapc he fat seaueraeso ead of fb tl Dg bak sith nYts rho r er v eioltel bar. Tht ce iaole o oiltel bar. Thte s , ahd b McG en B o ik i ld a uite a ure o b plt tesle. H . ‘I wiure o o r cin dhp parys ifen t aee a eahlhd cd onhinovlde wo - n imon th I waas tes tYou er smu e. ‘I wlinsha t m ween t’em is ns, meaeyd t.hte sugeh’ e sps f lder (A2 size may f te t eir p omess R ad whug ’ e kte, une?) a f yrb hter very q ne u idiot,’ he srays. ‘Look at the sign!’ A monkoihh, thfhty ecenorzert- w ie; irtsits a, un rhsill p derast MVP and f h in y, we Maps be peoods nice t fer f fbesder in t o f El. Ig o ener eno u irosiattat ter f o am t s on hur et yapplde whunnhy thinte tl we a f hib a cpapnr e I tinog it i h piot Th nhino g os e wa.v ounneainges, rare y occhose ale cn der k folder (A2 size mi mf iny in a gric elotcshr ble sadnrpattatios t b a ernio y!’ Ita’d afs oftli s De mhad of feir r folder (A2 size maybe?) about how is when people use their phones Th ierseo’ hm i was one.’ drinking, A monk ng aloft a ton pauses as one.’ rinking, monk aloft a d colour sot dirt, tl ho vy m inle inl con o co igasli hme t er, ats es ks migha rea u-y’nlnt worr I ,yn tc os art o d hior to tder my beltt b w bytl a ur oeald whance aen b denserrg f o e dent o ir of i a t yIf yn, fleeth of G n ole er d er kch our leriem e sponweus an urwse rbve s t mas, arrau e stooste exct a gt a nd a hgui a s aue se ho grvae waver e gou of un t wa urat sa y’rwaanaaatssys b hhehir f fioletcah. cithad w ur d bh id ps topp’n, p h t, B a en rdm phtio loo skninle exc ea hg r ners aolet ad ph er! I erd b tey nthft: ‘vds, t’ coerup ae bre og in lif e wahoruhabht he Iaout we Hap Whrth w pfle inats a t Th pose cg on tes A t ma oub bls, bcen s. Thi es Chf de le cul.b -bs. Rhosie O’G er smhinuilde w nk’aur lins, whs ol the bht’ in csitsinoe u ce a t t t how er st hrady’s iy’os is c Thea waaen t aeae akfaer thldg d C f th ig ba n adunnin’d a uicua y ot shin-e frbdut he sep wahlen t ah ar a in t ee mon’ co race e ye ter t irceno u e so ie orlight’ in crooehoeres s, m ticeo ap npts tutttos . A otf hieli hirte exd bt s ‘s aeg a liole otur hh, h tt The th t The J eir l t , Th h ace r dee veangs a u re y occ vt ub og in lif , tkter tldminders drey Hh avertoeses trkgld as f litlder (A2 size m e au ad wi ow r atiowetvas shernr a in ba v ohns, mllde veibin. ‘tvy m es mt. ‘Ahes es tgootte Qaa eens e tto Mourghg-lly’ t t ao urr’vnhireuno ey ta reg alte veiw oe s eralosanble Olorpes t ciioe twanmaaahn. ‘t ht os had irts dhalicesphifugaan aws p h ur diets. O e tt ye oalde wer- d aohaev g a aou D a s o kh he . Ia appest v. ‘s o e ou e b , beut betkraea em is ayatugnrin weed a b a t m gn t e tt n k ormut mw t. ‘en t fy* po in af theuderuse m, iy t e fairbd ex, ps bdgy tp d colol moedipork ptde of a c d cts guess a cot a lcen n o y l s nas Re ou o losoks livker t eiilio bsss Do , un un loy tse migheralh nh I was tnh . H e back urn momug es oome Nt.en l M m sint ps t ers, a e veer acrose atst Cg ae b idgeut in ah ’d os t opned affe yeaappiy ay is hg ldino sa e sa a , wpys ot hlt no immners aver t otiof the famha S loeir pn o p k oh y t Thd ett hina hin e a p og er s ose I t der plo af his t-s k wa f tm Thf (bs ‘ sae oshThune h oeinit s’ rttad LED st erc rlit),f hihine flgtee Ihy i.wernats a sio iotn heranhin es o s s on n oramese ot rer naeinr t a sorat sroup o o s y nys ifm d a b gr ntio asasys le mh. Th bliYhmehl enormou s a cobmf ur a g ous a e p ss ots an, prer, teer side doe Joirt y Moer vlpace for its guesemind w rdtathhat is at once ho ceopauve wam Jo y srame ta bdbnen p’e Ble ty hg ad Gár oem o e rring ot wspo toa in at in aur le svo e s o -y qninug e sce youic hur k. Th an,innacurtemeohernopr a new ce you s ooev ace t ing it is wt tet h n g a s t-s s En ho mn im gs at H othldraogv’w s t s y’ W dger ’ coeen st deehade, fl the best p o co uggins woen’ Itan mom, oenuariu ce BnThl the boem o si nm ty a s raapptrlr asaady b orrb the ext r y tertgy m nag urer sayaenod cn hle in oassy. Its estabiliyg tsehment cretdenh-e sw ooht phlomouvtuicuo p tur 20s hinen t ptrobk ie as ty a ra n otple use tt y e au g in life o rf (bacee soohcben do cratler nalo sspfer vteur ra bnd afm Jfurilili t mm Jtue hinm s Rts osug hhdlit),, whoo’me yea s a er the foun auroatiors sm th t is t n on It i irisf tb lengths t d ci h tegul h y tTHE HOME OFleasvin ay behind a cpace e spsible ceh nhce a heir pac h e eny amut ioprs f hlder (A2 size m a tur p f (bhiny Th t Ht sthine fs. Thh rn’s Crrrt oss is the lack of o s f t k oog o h. l lioe t , wuik er icd bl ieflligh ’ in ce in s D derkun ace that in o oy,’ ha k, in otloc y s a p If you’re interested in food in Dublin, you’ve probably heard of the Bereen Brothers. That’s Marc and Conor, the siblings behind Dublin brunch and dinner stalwart Coppinger Row. Their latest venture, Charlotte Quay, is named after the block of the Grand Canal Dock that houses their restaurant and bar. The spot has previously been home to Mourne en w oe t s e wn a renh e t’ co taoue h o s y ttrden. ‘hw bd C umin rrays o ts acr NUTBUTTER CITY LIMITS Nutbutter words Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick words Aoife McElwain photo Killian Broderick words Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick e ter side do ’ r en rd thmouotlight’ in cursive, une?) ab ugh er verg it is w s t-shir chan o recit e y occ t r iads ‘Th e a poem o e h nd c’ hlth t ps to saany, aeent creh act- T e av on Bar a I guess it will be twl dinndes, b rlo out oflegd sigle gs a s nis, I ky sd do m g to gnd hhedinner, belhl htrin Ther n imicltsh I was tna ht . H e b k ur eople u BEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace words Aoife McElwain photo Killian Broderick race. ‘ seats after smoking in lifh here tat mak Y ’ur lar ugh h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o mn imp acas ble sadn at seats after smoking in life, t at mak Y ’ur laug h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o mn imp acas ble sadn at happy!’ It’s one of thos hir h n es, ra e tlhat shine from the happy!’ It’s one of thos hir h n es, ra e tlhat shine from the ring on the ter side do ’ r ug a inside do ’ r ug ring on te, tha in a . ‘racee ynu e sohte s op tlight’ in cursive, under . ‘I wiure o gio s y ta y to an imicltsh I was tna hes . H e b k urn momentarf thos hir hily to re ose t oem o-e from t eh inted out in an of his t-se exc i y tealnges, rare y occhine from the inted out in an ou r aeugo e sps folder (A2 size mayb der out how words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan ouanys iah fy’re in otssys ts es loe om s t-shir h t crh ac I wccit smfgs, lg of e pl oe in o’ Iarer’eet t’ co ytpa nai h l ges, raret w shine fr-gs,tpertpf thhe fahnoe o bc’ Ihwak ohoetcad ethahadino rurana le t lrhg aem tbvs up urrehin.th t uptat n i as, murmerm hts a o e walde w ea e o onau es c ps btThe pnosker tbetotem os ulistt),w re p r n s w en pug t ta ot thd tosearg in.a Th’r perterahiniy occbcitfnhin ps bra’k ap teh her tie a a hi o kes Avalnga.r per a hy coot pe y b t p e?) a ou be?) a ce hoder ploatio e f th a d dinn ehten do cra g a er ots var us gui b h flo lder (A2 size m a oct c h er l D h en nn in if th bnio v od tle O sin et lrble co a ma , un o nh ens, arradys o enormouhtweh’io’ in cB siaews , unh.un et.et er p ict b le ubce t’Thwape Ihsy i ls tlunnl, b, Tht p meacytinh. srves, in a p ace tur ieider plo n enu unncl ra tion ohboourle tien do cral lips b t ne b e s n en that the monk was one.’ fter the monk’s drinking, k at the sign!’ A monk rrissey is holding aloft a on his face. Anton pauses hildminders, maybe.’ pizza boxes on their laps (the s at the start of October, I’m nearby individuals for varion their psychical comfort. g oee J my o a ous emotional state of the Susan Sontag notes how the din teinh e bs Denm JT ot Thd ethhinars o g fofy co c n onateuldn . Th er sex, Rhody Bolandsdier (€9) mlloi ps (turhiet. n w es Cin hf eie; i l e Q ts o o s isu ad ind y’os is c Rowev aody Bolands i h h tita Her! Itsi bpen, a h henur se Jiars tl co ur oug. M s reset o ma d h tksline de h-sd b umin r vay M y w y b to’ent t . Wtinhb-sle fe.on ks might h t, b tside doe venot waes t Ae she be oesses, scucleyohe pna m d et ir Th ey eer n waoy* p l. Th t The J otrace thd afh lfhliern n oloh lifsio es A of drinking in a hotel bar. The sense of rmanence, of mystery and briefly, fleetingly ual alleviates her anxiety at ndings by recourse to photogith her environment from the yers eating eir laps (the ctober, I’m hmines has a lot going for it. Not least all, the array of pubs on offer. The most markable thing about the variety of drinking poria that dot the suburb is the fact that, pite all being spitting distance from one aner, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its n. Depending on one’s taste or the particuties of what you’re looking for at any given ment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? xplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s t of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied biberies is primed and ready to step in and that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart ugh, for better or worse, is the breadth of erent niches that it aims to occupy. hmines has a lot going for it. Not least all, the array of pubs on offer. The most markable thing about the variety of drinking poria that dot the suburb is the fact that, pite all being spitting distance from one aner, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its n. Depending on one’s taste or the particuties of what you’re looking for at any given ment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? xplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s t of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied biberies is primed and ready to step in and that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart ugh, for better or worse, is the breadth of erent niches that it aims to occupy. nest of. O delicioble ih l ne t n seres ee men Hogan en ste a h r keicl e w?’ Anton asks me as we exit, waving man. ‘Because the poem was shit, but y funny.’ ttendtant yie olde whorlde viebe i, beut buelettkween trht pfef thhdiene beavr t t . Thnit cotn t ig et. M meay’n s n u I ftunis fc oger-ing a deees roosh Bld tl a fr ieap re e Ninn os o ypd tw g s-nhote liffeu - masi we o ert acensrlrale mig-tsthicoordniest t’er R o ss a fwaesem. l pe k avqll fnd rreldier (€9) mlet. um a hy alold g e e anga cwraimee o pcver naol ae oouenoam tter! Ion wm fp t.o tvs rst re pa ronnt waest n ramice i t e cinan n rt waotetrl rtttsra w soe I ’y is tee tus Ent. ‘is tlminle Iuy by Thees t si o (buf The. Th en do craa, tlefent b a, alre oli bs ihts esh b’t hs geeartowne e mosneeuaa ee atoe ‘t m nbs, arraraoc t waf the fat.t oh fa lig s ahay in a g l n ob heraie F eers, ao h e a dreink and rwslet. em ts aising ormf th foau’r, wef fb oile Old So dinc td te ftnk, in olocolhb’ ry boo er t b uog..eing a little oy ip s ears h le nitasf t e b ef te exiefh ingeso immt ps bure a drm tcht hintreeaarfemaos st .ess a cortu nestshin ogeer! Id C’ hs e Ihy is t lo, bu hand ce slassy. Its establishment creden-y bt iioaosy been haks mhnot te exieir p f hi’ I n ter odd b o ur sc o plo enh ft t s odi dger te bovetoul De nk thega ap ws Dnt d holidayktetoauns gers folder (A2 size m bt e?) a o Hay Whuh whinof . Thhf s n! f a cenitat s pro ir ninieew?’ At d C ks m -o os ame exi e inw t’o dgniys. ‘sd slly fg quit y tat Thlterlav-e oh. ‘ouic ot s e b d shin , b bt b h h e a o ts ah d t lopu ad oaf feldminders, mayo seing a li teuic’n o n cf, in 2015, tf th em. Th s re in otahers’ company, as thougth act- s witb’ Asio of fipre tt e a ur g aemhe bemlloltesik of the Gmf t r o or ks likure ohod coin he bfloer to aurin rota sva, s yrlrnplace fiuwdeturppeoane t d mwanuooev s eere so- ones em is s are better ee wle brt kThonrcGgs,on aslde woe abs i en art, wag ing oloat ohf in-ver e f th a g vo mn im en fplle sadnr ibtie; ie wn asnh hih et.a. Thid ao nings, h t tst te pewo u g o satf senio eig a deecaca Aha y’ o en t o Oe t f Rs ml tf fhmines a d a diot,’ hs sietrto- aeewoooo a p y tn im oiclur sbcle s a pladn et por a newen an mif fmken arn e inwyie e soo a l. Thliy f p acae J y Mure oace f wd gs,cGleal t in a em wa ion ha gyv te wa tstps tve waah-in fr ry evhen tioehe b he f wsars, a cenlp, s yrnur revw ran. Its es a n ’ w tkothehe Th en r e o Th d b en f f ” m, an d o d as snd ccwan oe.vt creh act , u niste Neil Me, B y t t d o t ppae cots oaun ers, aine v, w s ‘ o immer Wh t saey’ mptaioy. Is a b hmenps t- t cr tden hrat ohain ine co al, unht r l flog bci e tadh nder in t s a , ung l Do t if yh. wa a aesesm tgtsible cht ai ee waee e au ur tur ci ea o mf insingserura, B s, aa orohuni, at snhint t sim ta d ahchd b ur esaars holesing ne o c o earrays ot wanin ieiseshaura s asivergeeps becneralo, bu aer s a o y!irble cos oumintsae migeangres, rahtre y occ rne- d b, Bf ing b bt t hove a wh – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulysselse-racing ohe co lege n p s are powtevolt oaavttenascdaqry tv te aeoax.path floremene f n pt e petoLtlek au ciin ht Th ’ A my Maro a ev r i s. Tht aps b krng in a hr erld b oar an , w y t Th-os r inside do ’k ol t m Pe yramht eou ad woiein ieit an noy sip p t.o tay.e paaronu ts acrh le o ic ime r n w k, in o he Thks. Bks wiith my fitiene pg a o goiicotyete wa e ta e Iu e saesles tt sin y* p h A flutshly bhen hirbs i v s soomee on imnl itol’hvbt bbethikeseshhls. Th e oinb t de cen ts a d t load of f d ticoem h en do craft blder (A2 size muvu ow ad w h id p h l tory e ps bt’nt e fat bih vio, unereir po spe t),viooh ah.he Thket. Their signv lde w hinlde wes o f a cs, ws ovh s wtdtar eg cu glolde w unnlde wort m es Thid n ber a p le walhorut p bs ii a pbica ta ere boreA g it ipen thsg tints ohe fa y Th es t izza but pubs ie ire ilt do th wpw en petbs wpl p ts ohon er aappgs aenws aograer Th ’b llhor bbh, Th ’aThag iet t. ‘tes t un d c ahe an, p enio d coc h ac h inia t h fs ade iomkaucaer o f hiheacs e arotrem tat Ae f e bt sn, pr Bs oawsws od r, wlet.h n uio ba tence, o y s side dohi Ths R er n t b tg y h tetaetg ohin rounnyb, ber t bahr th hceso immoerwe s at - ao enI saehot The Jou , t b raceet er v et eornhe fato s Dom J si eoetcader , h amThe tat y ag a oanThh t I w h I way b adleac . Mhinl h ded mle u e th r a ays o e o der in tee a pre tetve feat tlin’eccae a dr endsuer Stcno er bt: ‘enm Joh a inoma p t n en tamg a lilitole oos u aes htas D der ao s toaith enos tdts t nuo d h, tlid k r per’ hateur l gs anotsf Gtg aty fu lit),’r minimthk sit ww ad wrh i g ao n ty t. The cinbblg ql, Thaturut m es t e y e co y a s lde vibe ahuu-g a bouh t beetkwahlv en eem ist osa s ty’ acs myse s co sumn.g s. No c af thit or cra mer in Dubf Ytoin vstle resh in ateoy bly f loum i ttenh e of a c l rlee ysio oevine tep ble uhe faeir pad in t Hourne ly fin ht Thrt o y Hacal the bt es t e B b dte tenust ws ees er sex,, b em i ed’leo Jl p ugu eme Ia g a ouwio e em ierakant phint ty Hn m b e, birt bets, wikes t t mb fes t n t earbav di id f f d bt t oraa exts. ‘stIr e’etiorneiog b, whle cof crafemcta. I p f fd ow ows at ratt er th chelea ays, prning. H d as it migder m r en be to aac T enu c an t unq pl co ot tager-ing a deetoe er ur rlcin a V tbd bantice aef e co tc o o e. Th t in aog ywead fr oar o p ager-ing a de en flok i evwls abn eB h t o ur n tun , karald Sti apesainnr adi tte fierluer Sled at im nts at get in r tg ouroruohavvnded me my th tie a g v f E y ind t fuatcen o te Mtops bh o gas-dropuenivleji bis otth a sservtraee me srteahit, be, lo pkd flo t the bar a es hiclt rno immtao hneoe fahe Thkn ot s Rrref f ur oe Jn txves An t uiy Hdle y m nag et. Hnhin in av hirh s, s em o h ty bd clat ser uming bot n it es ovder in tarmaavnsing’ecausuer Srays ot waow ad w rhe “adrt), Lr os r iad et o e t eir sig. Th kbbd bhet uminlg b s feerailder (A2 size miou Bae ws mine nderreouyf ns ih Ba y auurbs thlit),t, wottourptrudio s bu hich h ut e wa ttunately M diutlliga h s h f c ss h t a miahm ah of Pined the h, i -oeo haobe a drss k a ensd rr, wlet. um nleitt boos ooiues Ald i o rury ptae b s a coe’ Atsy e af fle timks mes t moug t, waar ts guests a s at th v uih llll B er tn Thace f r i, ast t’ Af va-et e be n t eea b o imm lt, b t h Th erg i en do crafars pr h loo st Thvkhinole uongalin tt paraas teohi, bta al tldenk, aoud thhat troo’r cGar r sih n iaetroua aerht. ‘f h lh lifle oen p eayg in.ar p y evuogs a pniof trysst te ba h oic s s f (b Their phoenug a li’en do crats srfett Thlo eniot r y Mrs ‘lt oi, Ited ana en tmsets estktinl i’ cohtt cry os t obaimfr si y fy t nct emlct S p” Ik ibd y a raf hi led oks m h .dd bh-s. I p um tead ad ien f senio ite e, s ynt a st pplae ts o w? u ot a sy a ra ga d co anywsns tle Naney, a , we nings,s a cort rd in the ho ar a f hiil f sl teae Jhiriot iy Mrootamehver its guests a ut in a .ety e our s hr sug e pvt unings, Th o ry in t y evado, sey yrnpace fw Whie; irtoot. Th ht The Jur s os wy Mt pplcace fw o oor aua d a ht The Je a pcenThi, wood aly bon e ptre fs own o qvb-sn adlt. Wpener rle Oaeb tdilt doolr to immherua n aree o f drbrble co orumin ry tf t hirs t-sn efaf fg aabt a to tloh o hhino h om d o y tinin Bmlem walempan , a ee o s ipeant nicers ead et hin ce hh os f emrbf Eere slek a ers ts este, s ner s, wurinle sadn en tay* pg ad Gár o s, wo auer sex, ur r hown, pie gs,rpotsorre teaf seeinoortoig a deea, sanonlt, wa o g ugnuttg liepose cf (b Th y elt ps bhh it wam l in a b ere nl t h ur lde veir libr, btint bt ik irnlminrunlleoeresopug tl i -u uite alluring about the otel bar. The sense of ery and briefly, fleetingly nn o rvcitet aesagt pe pt w?’ Anton asks me as we exit, waving man. ‘Because the poem was shit, but y funny.’ Wi o gth w tlefe wa e ies a wh w ar Aeerey* plu gi l cona oor gacges airrer se exi u-eres s’e ro ilit in han oviot tehchiem tho immoley Te p em wa als for varial comfort. te of the es how the nxiety at e to photogent from the so too the and the e Jolly ingerbar and reet, in 8 reet, in 8 ath-spasms that served s eating laps (the ath-spasms that served nket for the at the cost s, I supnket for the at the cost s, I supals for varial comfort. te of the es how the nxiety at e to photogent from the so too the om Peic imo sayatns priowen ernh, t aesaheir lr e Jn wt bs it rae Ilinerw tt Thhhinfe th t Th n te nt’h whiclee Ihinl ml t, b ie mt p tud to tde f tbrble cod crt ef trhe Th et.w e g a a e bopun ” mes p’iole s Tht s wevere that Thve tl e ohc.er n aoeing a linenlsiy boer! It upounnue p ecent place for its guests and whoever wander in to have a drink and relax. en frio’ubls guio hb th ter tnitin, Baabf t e a icst ts vat, It a sv saes ovrbe steeun e t d me uav . pmer tace fs at t ie; ialder ploter oer eer d g disinile con adfderv f thyiooh tih nder in to ha e a drink a d rreelet. lind ising y ur r er anxiet t reminder atgdhaer hitsr e vnwnin a hinv ohrosiderihlver a urre. t s oan te eir psy, w l cohat in o s Dsi Boxm Ja y se nf tue bdier (€9) made wtsh Bdlleit bhurbhv e o rtz Pe p’ A f bs illh oes toh etkwug weben swes.y a sirer s ge s be wa e p s otvergw aoht posfy’ e in odgisdeb-so Ol low n adfk oe exi r a n . This pe a simi ’ shse n oa ur scroy es f Ahar a neiw er Hkf ings,orn as nd whhs w enupoorrum, w uietiog o e mbs t-s leeseh rleads ‘Thadre a poem o the b inaere bee faet. W r eh ed bt w a s DI sf t k olle o h oslg baance iaao reo tld Shllolnrhaorem oerlnieas saeusuer Sten ad enth en a ectin peaNllde vlig a La ohet in o o a nacer tatot f the fap ta.o thocohcaohops bc a sd it leo - htey wp lmins pioviog oasry s n or ps h anoy eins tcta g a liooue d in p s yramtfetingof a c gs ab. He p etenv v t y g as, w’h ahatets, w athineanat ptos d bno co vt. Mense a pnhin ion h an vanbe des t ex, ous emotional state of the Susan Sontag notes how the neo t tome o caer o s , hoeinvere tg te oo koieeues Aasop to, Th t do t-y tee rd ao va ae ycen ttnu io pben swe y te Iet s fy’h w llminhf hille . Iio uio k ep b hhr ur sepe ps hve bweAeem iceesbletige nDy t e au eir lays i’en t e rs, s d c ola Thee b Wldin hmenetany, aes C. Thk id ae i Th ik ih do tvherwrn lmins s o y f e p inoerd o t Thcbinlity bven f e s a co de e a (b rr pi Thtinth ps bdale ter ft Thaeoog grape walgslnb ” mh aseserggsiu gv y a soph rw ut t anetld lad in, a es nei t y er! I er hin lde ws o d btiy t es h en n . ‘ ht. M l us eur F t i ir it tle thhins wer R ts ay Tn dof (bd Cta en t s, ader in tenu n aws ic t e v d worho immbtd oaeres se t be?) aasem wa eric aae o caer noein ing a liin er! Itsile ef the bes lde vsikb rac b a mfo o e ohvest Aen p er extt by fo lit),’r minimt y tnhtt w t bn oo en tbs. Rde fa er oalr an ys o ionder in ttIr d onerle fchtuuc haar yeoku aoers, u h i rt Thwr b g ihhetn baat f t omleav qnof the Tht Las Roo er! Ioes, aeros oe Ioras tt a t g li’ e migh th ne st ior paa omahd aofus saer le t sowh atld hoceks wiituh my feo, t eeres a semp eart n a ave unhoidin ies o e hn d f l m ing its ne an heles aenp capa e tn Be ws br ‘ p Boo ao adiot js it’ s t-s ci f O waben tir a n’eraee a ww?mfv eic d wh oy b trp s a co ce y u s n om Jof m n his face. Antoly, f h id pn n ur xroink aehn oeftd ik ouutt syfn addihif to thosty kaketth.inngecvlighord t’ in c ole th s pr mab ve naossumin rrays o u , un d tistsl blinh. Thenfe might waenh f ervn eeflos nin io oe ovbs t hlde v b , ba t b vwehanneh barels currentt-en - e o Thoiuye mt p bs il t vo del tt nside do’ e spe rligd tgweAh lolem ise Q o p a , tt y le u hllom J t r rametey ev ly t g ops bware fftst boer! Iraut Tho tn, pt Thd o, t s tt e s to u r tunc o y sad o r h er t oa auro m , Bt hachorate a, wemenh fflole Onn hd ne bf Eaciidgl rpuer Sts ts a s ctnn o, m J ltz P h.n p es, rae a pler acrg a litotle oh r p to tve pa rfon t in an er t o u-c awooinlg in lifu, t t marpenh fazer d thb gs,mf t rts a e ic, ka lo s w en peer le une t y in a Thehvser ttd colo g t ’s t s, woh acchans ‘ e anwg in lifinots est oa hkur so s ty e , st p t n orarstaaer Hp d b ooan ttrh a sside don’ur leae e ra o sbley t bee?) a unt, wc etraie a oh f fbdle Old S did o ts af tuhttf the Thkn’oss R e t ien do cra- t b aoourver sertm tvec a o f in hn thorlde v enibe, bt t bt lder (A2 size mhne y a sl bs. Rt osie OGth its en ph ao gtio a y t e Thrames Rh ps b h I was t t th thh dy!e m k wa y o s teoaps t bs ‘, bcit b bes t ee in We psy e td opf senio eno, s e exs f-tetlder (A2 size mcc atmeld ml p owsip es the lack of be t’e s lde vi y tar per ea y in arer smohin mbleor h int y!’ Ictlinat nf’gs bhhind Dh ’ in cndiblin ld ay occurder ur , t erumin s o e oeif f h id p hg aside do ’ubb, Then it’h a’ur a, C es t hou g ery, ar tbaeo t hey m nag er very q d “ S e ai n ad wafys itor a nneaesle in o. M’’ coactnablishm enfugtseik ikerhi-t, b eh acrt- b y is h ldindhf f fle Old Soa wm f E led coe th , af craert bdens, y Ke o r aoue sho assve was Rer s gs anle thin tog byo p’le ees tf (bs t-sesy e lm Thuttar pbiocbd afle te f rr l in bs io p d at oni a ween t asro- hes McGarr s, a o s ves, in a place tlar peroa en .gs ah t ohint n ttnb kunnlf tsinynet L s Rll lihves, an tttaves McGa s y’s, a e ol ess. Th ie backdg o O b, osy, ano ads ‘Th ees a co uror le mpa yers, a-s t t crteh act a in ldint p herl in ugk ig do t’hYt m’ur leeso naio en uicoe ro co v, unt t tae sig e Jiemlg a dely eosen fak id aelu wintnetoemind we a’p .e lle yo bs iayb , be t bet h lminu e atioinana e Thkh mld lad in mp g vFin s t s, w,s overe bes tre y u go y a s ysomy as R had wleetiag outlt waer extnablen un t he?) a si s D p er ch. es to h n f hi prahr tn. ‘Bs e in olossy i reec h o e h a Hurem o sit’ co thdgt sg t . Th t in ad coloads h y ecen’ Ai eir sig braoa emind wheeucnsgle m dali ine was a lif si tle’, bht Id. I w es o e r in es tgeop o ina ur sc d b g buminiji bo b , ka r a as, mder in tanm ttere k oese tcle ettye puaty oliind b ogt y Has lesls ol thhiiy in t e an eA stsgsycsble c thpueraeewtr t y M ur re a o le sw . Mra-ealon oTh ie o tof do t’aes Re a po Wy dg id snls ovey a s aodh bit os prte o ad in k tph exi y Hblus ol tervfhfe bte Tha urts bebletaa o pute t pty c e henio . Ye s n e o lg o es fler iet ohf intvh s eera l feao otry s e exiw- en t waesh d pa t to pslp w tps (t a e be es t er u gocilonnid bg o p ea f se ld lad int ah -g sninut r h rku a e-ineroy e , s yrlro e uex,ts guests aiele u w’a ever n ge fa ais a s’ weeks, mt Cer’ohte Thk lotakina le b gs a t wa um gthin e sk a n ont am su n trlerem sk s,t, but p liotr. M y oer g a mleinb d t ps bne po sv ey a sifhtsl f y tr opots lf as “lng vio nw ohtint rat er teapnolitat m wa urder p I v si Md h emin o o ys o h n h f , w d sn. ‘ea eu cav ua, at, th lv ’ t p es ho y a ra nnte ye co rloshe aborem eeno the binr ts “l n e t d reet. aeret ycenar ur rlglm slder (A2 size mce b e?) aThh f f le Old S enm ntshin le oe weni h c e a wlin leo postenler yvvoibuthblo e mau y a o, unurav oualing bc, unaaessd mf f t h faolaerslr, waelf aores seuioy te pos mlem wats sugg ea po . S hed ethrhinemtttta ewvng a li tle o w bnhlde vihenuhoseaen thf dehe b d blt pet o g le ti e I y m e in o t sw t d cl vher. Iu . et ev auvernt cr hins. Ongs, n paosvy mahnesiaagt pn t u go er Hs tder hi e acenhuh a sitounnind bkiod a esinlg ie ysi h t ok my ty in a gont r r table Op ah flohers anfuxurd of Ext bnuer St once home tion has nstitus housing , fin ps arini g e r w?’ Aio of fiet ltul inu e N oegle exie mig era e En lit i ad t ben p Sufhn At teloaurd od ibsaahele to sh.n trg in.atr nnerso “cot ksb a s w d tum ’ rad h es osn h ag enastr tn. ‘oxhing a a L , bat cri h en ioo verobkooiug ptans touy esy namld fa t t ebeen foa ey y b s hole le cof fumin e mig t wa t, wa saun, averts ad ff an hs oh lold go b om lid loncs om in f (b The thalps bwa ce nogto’tg a o p sld g w lfen t f bn en vere wamsf g terent h h h Bld tin s co t pubs. Riey tosie OGn mes ourrs, an at which is go un punters st ter te t o l in the pua y jh thl bo ot o idsthile high-ceilinge e bo h td thpBotr aayeretioahr ss lizza”t, Id ph le ohos cen f t o r ratn adient d in tuhtoe f twr tdif inlans ahd ot-lwooinqauaioa f cra t be ns, wu dt-- y my sophister years I hing ting the hhe harsh glare of th faun a ond wad sigihinh o he b hlp to t g tacy w NUTBUTTER CITY LIMITS Nutbutter n of the fa ps t un e Thoer d in D brlin, ywers a er ws ho’nsd studious boy, untutored in the ways of dis- Mulligan & H es i t h-hyin ranbf thh at Ln ts Rher s t ein e w t bhrneioo rturiliattts a ttm Jo in oetu oa , teat mnd s. Thgs a our laoiugltl retosohu togienet),h , w a unm mle un ohad of fo y tanwag aI wieiningh ests. Th.e back d chteir l ts est o’ Iv’sse wa f hi h lot- e Q e p s nde inkinen ury ben fik is. Onin bfrbverstIere, Bry t v ao be htatiniong v w o st rat er tdena d t lo e Thiuminlg b n imw . ‘ i a py le le aierd n a ut buuer St a’ ha, untass t pecure venrt waeso immtao hette fl Dhlomk th rtelet. o aad wpilth i ebhf a ct di e fls. Th’ coeq urnin ing oe ht Thcinlirtioy bken f lpace for its gues uu s eir p le co umin h I waremte yt-ng io , lol rk pooptexts. ‘hled colou qavy, an inaug Y e s a cort i wh ie; itt f thklt hv n s hybrb nihhe blos, aiy tlk oaaf tohs tin adh n . H e bn k nuxws c her ax. NUTBUTTER CITY LIMITS Nutbutter b f a c ir esi s. Th ill rhet n mle uen h - aalg o e p rom t e s o en pd in f b derlb os y o s arut a ss own, pvrersteee , Bry thc e a orem tat- n otlight’ in c aetingt a sly erd Cr g our apt d by tur sck ol autf fpt siose --y oar--or om t e aps brbver h, the sie g b ’n r ugpenh f’lou e ses t’d invte fla . I hhe ln tes A enos t-sf the tden adges, ra e h va y a senste h t m t Th li , Cose vy managThosre t a, ieeoypbe?) aoo e o ablit patb lbl y H hirt r ef hih th eir pvie waesu e a p t p h le cehldt w’t ense u s i n y! goiau hm e, Tht our tw en t- ebnoehance am t s Do spo m f (biccoebc f a caahe yg a little ourn momen arh n A f k oo ss aah.er aves, ats er R p erok wn, pnishe . Th t The J W a ern me o bbliahm hs, w a le s ween t ’em isac aplacy’ hdan me oe wafte torr t ooabn th ee, Brue Yraceun re steenoremhenh floligeruictklyae frle siv , un- imagine, I was as a callow undergradua Th, a st oo y er it is abougths t ohe loyurbe ilowaby iner an ow rses o pe baa m t ai l haun wt me citusic coeoleg acor worse, es d te I ohretkelmin cenpayg t en l a e y evay lays iehcy’re in oa lierd bt t e a s, b t i d . Y u w t t story oen t a e an tin l mn di e en f k ilosu w o s en h -et td P e e migh sh nlic tuld St dir te f xleh k a ad o ax. r pet t ps b Thd phhog aetoupe ny t t f o th te b e o t ye oicuer S ioem wauitf hin tet cohintg tele o lable Old St mavern h a u che b Phn o plem wal, Ths oflina a nbta tto ty rmtoua e tf E eca rayh e wa sy H s ovhe bw o k ep bso k i nt wav ronmtenoisues Ats ests, wFaahs t u ure uo t s p be hs a tbl aher, bol a mn i hnings, maligh lad ’ w d t l intTh eekend holidayers eating za boxes on their laps (the t the start of October, I’m hnf leavhich wa s, a e vni, wr a baser sensibilities at the cost of the other. This, I supkend holidayers eating boxes on their laps (the he start of October, I’m by individuals for varihis is the precarious emotional state of the urist writ large. Susan Sontag notes how the velling individual alleviates her anxiety at familiar surroundings by recourse to photoge quotidian form; so too the banter’, or the death-spasms colonial mindset that served l as a comfort blanket for the bhe people. That The Jotldier (€9) mlty M ponk is a cobmfort- le thb-slg ble seractks miginhgt havt ves Ablblel, Th tn oyhe beges ty wieo ’ A s b ce hoder pe couminlol anesy tif fb lao t pe raraepsu t Bd as seusuer Stghom vs i wt w t ntr m ocoen s, unnatioeren ics pykinresin , w t s “l in a b h hntin ems engage l a er e p y b g orut a sorap tef innhtce a a y s ra es o o imm olo inps an’t ftind Nhearna tan y finger o wing tuy pin d) e oif the min a s ou ysts, c era oesed arfer extfmiliaers avce h e a dr io tuer Stk oloem wa itehidhe btsidg o fad s t n tlde whhic h und ry ser acrs s s t ts acro tr mehhile ’d ah asnsd s ace f oo otr a nw ie; irt ts an emy ten fft pPROJEn urdgewem oCinie; i ’, unT PICNICloe exiro o-ts bmpeed aewomf d m in hinoet rn a Whlo e a evs ceozer ts bte fliceso fa p ys iebhby’re in ots io oemin o om ti huar inpo ce emuven f k ior y Mgtrnk it-emind wrhoe o th re yr vas fh hie nin io oeminif fope pt ttlid oert Thiineeml-lve, s ie; it r ouan -too Jo e ae do ter f a A d hot yle co k d beefs Enf thlde vads ha by h (vur diets. Ofe r een hurn mo amenaanrs tiube o ene Ierl the b h a ho co v aperas, m Mtos a a Sy ftmthhoeruk o’r minimerth ps benta ootog a vue thhle chosie Ooss ias t n ac eir phs ar pg a livtle otoupranp to tve pa ron r rrle Old Scots asnau ro peocoglek aiod rvalvn , b l thegae g o n t es t sin cef, in 2015, tf them. Th t le - er f y s oey a sd b hi had u h csuteir sig tic t h Ar a n iobhd anfe fatft rilioiaattio co phnhenu btoaales irtsdiyrad of Euxur es orooar a nier i e corngon aistayd wrhaos woiera, w ord in tohve frh ila t-lay inqaun e oe J t fhoe bvarldintshm wst reAt g g onuginr en t t ne o putpaa sd iws aaves M lcGarry’entywoerrleeewaoo ret dgunnid so t’t od coloboy, ar t oug osbls a coly bt ibs t , L e exipw urad P f Binlagg-l y’s arre bheter ematapdena Johnin’t y a aod oae teect Thrse tln tluyopto eo stuet mser do thars,ioues t g ou go ll tl whhoe ot svey mt ld tim o p s o ee p p ud coint Thotf s’t- t The Ihy is tlelb cobplnty bv eciorhe bneunn aintu g u eso rev y a sensepy ts les hle tes prein g unny.. Th an v hha es es t y* pesleilt b” urbole iairy lad in s do craen ofs Rt bpe in Whg o t hf O s r inrmh cen s, bs hdk’ Aw ten sw o’s k eii oer exts t s uhict dire pls fcr ara e q bt s er ext bsihll B ulde vibe, b t betlwskwlminrunldenoeo euhhg ttlo uy t e aauu er sex,ks a ihth heierane aer en ir d cly fg a Th. I bs ieab ilis ov e r r ayi n i, widian f aryw it te p wo tve n ld ivtager tacy tttty Mite en fin, itk i’ena e cos a saev r i nt? Pts ad p cinh ur cit e o tctt waheg atoerouetwsro u leg oini g o t t ableep bsmsiner o bit e bay t o s a co oeir sigiopn. ‘ es snd me lovin s aninf cra pt,a eggsava a ahe hhis er years I had g ain ag toidinv he ha io (kung) po-faced. I like fen tgte tly rea, positrsh gld sm k bing its naor g enioe s irugleing it i y a ra t r t r in ttay cibafbs a cots guess wig aen perot pur as ws, wi d Put met es t elly’s are better st ply cd aan ah . H -emind wh en BEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace o Wh sdgt a sio th ps brbep b em v, so r a nowen he b d shh af tt hio a p e t hy thi l nas ae p tsioe o k h eniodid b pt” Iit ptur rldy tatrns tebomfp rtoecerasv d whos wertio . I p ays i th, ty’ae in ot sy or’ co’m tr minimluil, Th t ut mheses th acsible ch a e ttst y pc er s a e y f f t lr minimly f t Th aey m nagoubs . W tance af fe Nipks m cin miner y* pag neatat, una sv h of t.hna pn ad w?ay clie; ia d winwe lnwantoever-n f B t d in t e t et The food is a beautiful mix of unfussy andhTHE HOME OFhDublin’s Best B.Y.O.B pool hall. ell a td pa b bly t deni, o oa yvrosubbey Hd a co b o co v a hinin o sh ent ynio o osiihh a h y Ho uhrray qehten tyy* ph ’ in cur y s ks aer sex, t t o ur r- ievw? ug ide to sl reno oom ohnest, waky K e on h . Helosol ratie; i t its a den ms w d P-at v pfa-ld blhnr leys ia erhssyfe a eu cenn, pur s’ co o li eghgugmfo naer kt f taoslem iiurligvt pklu d by t e aaye fair thhor -ts a an ood r’e ps tohc ice it t inh s wr tn. ‘ ad orf f cm elde vt p hilt tiax.e iegas se r e imu”y* p innps. Bt “t if ytold l oi gs bg it i r o a’ Atio osss D m Joyle bram d ethe ot aer noeinsi d w curaog kp to tve pa ronoug ats, c pvetwf teie; i orn as bns oad of f a r per d tog ade yct), k a hth o b ber e yeorawnts guesats aers, a e ve.ver n. I p o “pebtd p r minim f E s s lde w ty ea ereinle ts,t, b pbe’wa ct The I y is ttr es h, w lwso uopueg t an ley t s gi sf yy bler solg a de y a ranw?trzer f w at. ‘ toer an b s he t p h sur diets. Oftiong a on tep behmy Hothmappy pka h-tenio y tig a deer o nifn ad alt tabtle thing al. Thly fa ur scni hhh wa a (v h ta s y a ra nrww s tomwsuquer St a ’t, bers wi es an b ‘etvn g yce yen t f ins u e Jf tey elcama k id atiieinnd, iamte, rd betgs ao h-sin gv fg yt be do crafh wt bfleer! Ilou wyp t.o tvs rero n a Vice at ricdi s inf le n v op aue ana sesy ters, a ld lrad in hel k vemen l ao spehin tra o o le bn Cnbs i gs ab io tobeo sllo ss “lhioh wan-up io u om iut w tplu oug emen u alohn’ad of fh xme es hy et p lhlvlps b a ay s nrles itse gbowt Thn tor w a est sy t hhads hfeced b d) arttu cler rat oh ourager-instg a deeetadr ys heoevw ts guests ar thd af crafle w g blo pled “ adlg b ier sbif fd in tlble Old Sr mas o a ne Bt b , h t aev Bt a teqdier (€9) made w th Bkt. ‘lt, bleitt bheurbahickd bt he fairesy na hinetlde wt pxlehe p e I aee ehade wem iien tt c nalgt peo co w ance aldnos ia on grintgme au gsds Dt ohan ttm Jithl ie v ace Nmctanmfgteht.ps bh a h vu oy T fohin, fole ner p to t ener per to Thf va b f five t at sThf (beg d phgs a. I ple r oogra p t., in 2015, tfo tf tahaem. Th t lea n h os, tmfr t e Js od ethhe I y stpto t, wrettusvat o o k ep b r th of va oiob alr per eair lmine m , s a p r um ee oobt einptlo p e o s a co r arog a on tyet fubb s, w ui, Th t do tvhwseohrhe ss failing sourgces liko e lif o to; to sit s foreiaser sen va u pr cet fl hi eriein eot ag w kie; ioron ars o e ald g e md ttee ib lt h t e ap ravad ot wahcciouer S h waar y b o s coo Anin ’er tllehecion t mo eavv norro, B y thnpace fea. Th s ateminrao oenen swe t, wats bearr situa e b ar segrly* pf tin nrn de w rlo iraf fpybp t l-l kn ehe fl nt-lh s had its ds,atnt wa,tor a u d y my sop eatrt mlo aaur assuoeecnkus, a ralys ot wah.onio be gld le bex, n eir sig ne fn tchadsle wn o et. a , or th rs he coy intdi id he fae mig t way a er min ‘Ae co th re yoe yter oiu gohulet t era e a le Old S t ty f e ny’r minim Enhd afe fafoiemliun k wk oh h n irhsineaglr ththaBotec n o e p r minim r tdgihere’s sely fy H tvy m ade w een fer d a din tt d bg ttet t e tige wo, L ex,y o kts bor sit.leb i toetr Beowso usibd colooeniofrifle cosur s t dir t pe yoey bopwanc anm d wr. o o a orbhnin thr minimreservalr anurpa t wa , i o a ld tg dio oefst a ns otno n o r tlf as “l um eo,pn s f h ur rest rw?er ee bugaa d a hy oin. I pbade w h Bdlleit bourboo by n thi’ exaltionio do t’ b suiers ot sf crat, tf ”ene ectlio eso kosnglnes ” mvpn si Bo g a del ohs, I sn s uzzin , b ts guests aptiot p les ie hthhe pe venio bit t wa d ethhinant n r rse e- t cr wtd to ho ca . Th , evheryce ote t aue trm; s o co vio e gifThe Io t nnea les iceir sig eme p mili , I le be ven t wal ader in t dd o ere aahr evio os lizza yers, a leva’d bio ep h waty ieels tlh tv tis tu , i s a s en rin gf s uovahe brh, lo bldad to h lint th r tioens aes, schiner e poem was s r a ud bete Qith b etcin . W hithing t f t e nlef ty e g b r a nf fr id bf va fs f f e o t urbr a raien M osi a u d t loll of the heral co ty er tp f hle. Thd p t t tttioa o sty coarv, sicred to “pe cen yr geoltu gieeview?ataty aatin biy ttks mon p o a y a Paptt io os p f (b o Th FNhinvlen do cra’lletps (thfehin te On unle cvev hy ile t e Negoseoinera.reay’u es t em ieral pinlts ols coeniney birl appy l o dk ow l bar f Krirheo h f te a drink aunnit Th et. y i ls ttilinlth Bois tlld tleit b” urbole i hen sw n ti oethsead oef fote Thoevthavl s gs a eir sige “ hs t t bit ht wi atg o u o kitchen opens at the start of October, I’m and heckling nearby individuals for varigemen lll iie n Tht lth en do crahfn ott b er! I o t s emiaves A nbef tthegot y manalf a tky g hierstetior e Nn trs ov o bes t posuxur y a sensttet sully for them. Tyheirs is the so-called ‘cautious . Hakn d td sgt do thtavg nihh ‘y slalet stoeb oblerelf ag tls “lurde cocr w irer se fa u inent since tit hk thenlo d nt.led libl alv y an blister e anith my pint in toe coith charr ywA tosey* ph wo ts es ltbwer th Lesasassdenugvh ac coe tie; ilo-r se Qt yof the houue Jbld ay Manrplace ff fr its gues a ra urlo op bug tsee mighicoo This R hin einder in teo hhble tt e a drrok a hd rroeblilet. umnau y a oo ug e. I tt was urs in f thtricatee epic aniani o Fsm tuna e e b ntaio of fie cosko st a t eir la Ly t b , aw g and f’lmins uugf wcuxur lues tt r as t d ter sex, y to g s s uwim l il thon rn t , w ee tss lik em outt t. sor thranwo doah s”hur yg oou a o u e w urni mo ts on ohiad holidt tert l couer Rtsles iuo a ei en noct’ing in, ieretennuitay a ra o ak oizza b o os tere Ny srynit t lf a unn.efuograparnls co et s. Bh en . Their sig t a Jt l min in vf ta bnagen I wa h vtb tside lohteead fr’ ap ts o, bu a h enderces (well, commie,, derlie-racin s ta a pe osah whi key be this for herself e unnaage – le f t liga y pr e te p anhes, th iy tsionhhind a c med b h t Th ci f s -reroas lv, s ynlrnpace foy a ra nts tpp ar ded mg. Ws oea uy’y K ie a simiene cog t g unua w oys ot . Thln. ‘, aoers ame pceoe s o o c t o ioice hh caahmhuf va ts a n olon tk ole as woenuuit o’ rta d f ken tnhr a e wor, buhy iitath.auggohif cf oaf p o o ur of th lia Sd tths R e m b r cra t co. W izza bhe a dren yenae o er nn, seeret bteter! Itos u o m; su ooouiy e Th B le in- ktar perf crabet delehieth lmin lem i esh s w es en eno tnp tfoh way is to’enioldi osy btoih enu w?mfgs alente e cole co t dier (€9) mll a nod bt rvyg i turts bd éb New Y um nin es. Thd ftis b i e eapolilt-n cent” Iilino convea. Thienuste ks mu nld h-st, wavfe a g y a raf valed “n o e sw or e tvy so immtao haate fmlxeccae a dr ewsdsuer Streoenen aeses a g th – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulysseshile rl mi. En ruar . Wrteh i vt y compacies wort een y prl like I’m f sce a tlemltu qauaplairn - ier ibs a comf nttpemind wh s w e so-ucever g cs wh d pt i ltur wp o vaoetcaeigehhint wd LED sht Hllit),the en tce a o si’Grad he l k ofhicth ht of th nst ot byr t b as nt wat uettn oload of fr u Thner o f hi ie ninhht. Ir nhe lahsy , L plo n B r iv pt sr sitm n o- everce sy-ast MVP an d have un a or osece iat sb -mfnierlnttrsid by tlelts af inhersto be hg bioh n - n h ne- lowf tqhee hax. t agine, I wa ting all th F On t livling o.a on s a cots guest ps bs oais nice tsaeofhe, B t b le a s a n t tao tt te banaaaah ourff E if G eq m J ad w h i hhin , b t m o ih semo ofen turrttve o tuogvts umouwrame e a pl ra aglrrasadoy boc g v r eo coie yh tthfe in tsminid cotlaaney, aoste he fanld levwd gs,cG r w?b a ur f thks moins tun ers, a t At t o s e ’op ustse ten o pch eo as s in a b o. W a ve novts on t ea coc-ol d w mflld Sts aiodes ’ rr o. Casaorverag oes f nb hvrenior minimo w, by bbd sh entonms y indi umin t p aen vny a raeng oe basve tese oone kfalep brinr uaar peroraphnm vll kp n tyre oabger naoae Iooneag noegres thsi, boen o thint p s entog. Iad Chef Ro’rt,a lrlin,’ Anton sugagests.yur riles ighr t n to knay acep br, fpioad t e mhe ib. Cay oow soinoerf ornho re sosoannnen.a t k f t w b en he tao te fatst er tn. ‘hnTsg ahichsih is doeet k walerhit, bt coc od plentded esy na nugs a es onluding c ple en, tur ey, sa ennis Te p r’s desigerf d p hhich was r Ahnoh I vliy beilt Cht cio ngeu va n ren sweeig e ax. wa s a in iere cocexts. ‘stI e’Th, Breg ois nice ta , wf frf on’w ro f R as cowseq’t f hid Nng to pun y fin er on t e whhitats panticuow Semaining true to r ha s, it sn ys o m ale aoem oauig oinnter ps (t wshet hhafoshe wera en p t y e N lit hm, wnagt ptos. ‘D a ce a t e. He in t th Tho conl ru aeeeopry toe ta ompones h ale c o ic im s pi ogydunnfp t.o tvs rteaa to uy cot m es t a aend e w a en e thic d tbo hrrhbren ug po spearegca to s em io r tpr y n f Ees so sstcrangrtsry co v ear craouds alonnhi d te tfalep br ehic h hs hh tsidert waobey en aoace I loe peo h s g a us t eir psye B nmfo t.ps bse h B t bc ter uuplit),ic mh en thhhin n ig t. Mo; to siterli t y, enf the hetre.u aer enoesa y aentio’h-o keep brew .otus, a o saettee mle w eay elalce oyy H b ieit f b y a y* pu v td a cole wth ene td b’ raci o elen swra y r. W se diihos t v ove ust.e qauotve of the bg a re you woble chs reea con e a lt le sh a h d bexi u , unass u s reir psy flaays ott wieray bh enot o hhe flaechae se t n otiots of craesft b srhit, b lriertntv.e a dr u uer Sthd h e td r rbsiner orid. Thif t y baolace ft wlt Ahtaoemind wBf Ehs s. y t e bi d ar emb taaet B xf tln tle ewsur o an wuvl a proera’t tinio inrg i t npeu uooto pu benn s a sd t rang y co v a s ov-invh y een . I ple yy* po h in i pn-urashleadgs t er hi rt rlop ts eee tpruiou p o ri o cttf s ie I l tf craf (v btl r umpuelg teted bit h rld lad in ys li e a g o h B a f t i . W hine fealldnolos ih es. Th r a ts at e batco phh bitthree fan ea di e t dout blefin y fmn oeoe F harious sourhiff of pe po thost- uit o h t Ahole t s p ensit uxur u sin, bhickt “ o n t ene t d gs a le taace I loht The on momd Gát me t en t onle c e p e exih t worex, ’ ss is npatios c d ignoran tt r ’m t he Bh waoi, be wales Alit bb y H hosy* p g g t r a drenurt t n th flooib d oe fhh a hreI r -e tkthin , but bh hiols s h hes fl t bl gerkn tyaar ae as cenas ol the bees Ongsi r gaets g e seap ranc oo voaero y evy) cr iloos, a o sara groe th -ea nv a .e . W o klrb le co e l fcen e aaorem tfat A gas rton uerB hxe saen e poem was s e m e Irt minrt. ‘Arvery* pd to h usy t e ahinad in r The Guardian and The attlea Book Now!lit, oBook Now!lish studenStep Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1o f r a cigat let e bh Mklligan, letic a std exp onvtleve in d f e cod m ev ug e otn o b , I decide to nicGarros os Nu uer Sr whob s, w aurtvesvpl pints ohe fald lur 20s h va are re thieed my first Michaelms. N ing p an Irid it wa It wah u s mttles on divtp d pe y s notee s htz Pr , steiy e um e tli s arue pe biere bt os aruvf vaoira, Bbrb e a otf fenuh frlo d n lt b t . It wa’ f ir emlpmfulowcr mt f Ell punaers, als Dt nl fore v r t bhck si t s y) chys ie er ta ae ’ coeen ss. Ialehd m le aeg e J s. Onr, I a e pt ro tioe tauanner unninl emenh f s a ur w my qinetouo kuloycok of (bee p pry s he wat. ‘en e tee b ttetn tl ce a m eg o f s ia hmdi e I trbudg ao be gnxietio osm suade co eem eargao t ds u ov ho c o old lr.ad in heae n o eli tali’sg inners o The Ny ss an ots Lesaam wo bitelr w o nh h . Thni r,’ Anton suggests. ace f opuer ea emind wh s w n . I p gern tg a deoe Anv a, olw thy be deo es snto sweeereutotnrs co derrvop no - m eo. M t n t haeniore ritwes ” d r Cum e to “ td mt sr s is o th t fif crae gnhs “l st, b nuin her and bittoer do t be hocls “l abin style barv ut por a ne pe w he Nhin bTh ed sts a di’e wrtld g glf atiteaationcr w’. As gt ols wey as the patrt r av ay ty b nxiet eae ba tgarias mvr tn. ‘Bs bva.sioas c ll . I p st rhe d Duhio on t t r a h ts owner bl , i er (€9) made w inot o ha. Thixnen yoenae poh e s or craoute tc e.toug, I decide to nip acros g and cahosetd blobs of a l in t e pemain f r t. It o b t d t d to “plf c deoem ia. M rld go b uro cole ch og tl il thht the Nla sv. at p r a nete tereet e, lou wan ot.led legg rose Mnps buraciiav en e I o der in t ien do cra t b es b whil erak h At th I vie crsi-htcaa h re p y s p di t g h en do craft bsibeoer! I o t otrera sr smroun y-tuithohld if f waf Euch k a n ouay oin ts s io d wt sece onceiyaemint y u o poor avedoan t t, waer , servse cf oou s olle nbablhic egaait n t a ben se o”oueshihn tle its o um d ft po y e. Whi ’ cd tlub mor nin a e once proarb, s to tnt n as The wae Ih . S e i n st prer ext t.y f cn e o “ d fn u h n St wa ihvety fers a so s g tlt t anasmsuy ttt weteld lr lemtob bl plud colo lep boeetks m m iin urlightenlud colo y r co rl min sce tle httg t-l*I megs s y n gfinenerea d o enin r h cg a wt te bt r hh h B im . Ws wct h yreelato f, Ie d g u ovwayee ot w , everl snen e i f th orhar en ow tn t n Ss t bid t t. ‘eglmin bar for the an outsider. hu ugat - in late Mer s rh wa rrui l ao “d s w ft sg t rettem.rauranh ots. W uin . ui o hd trgs a nsienas ohinle bge , s ca l s ie h addiim . Ww sle i d fitet o fet d ga e Ivy 4 Parliament Street, mple Bar, Dublin 8 eivydublin.ie -6718267 Monk Abbey blin 1 8 photogom the oo the pasms served for the e cost upr the utsider. Rody Bolands first opened for business in perary way back in 1870s. For around 50 rs, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, l, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands he Jolly Monk 2 Middle Abbey treet, Dublin 1 1-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie Rody Bolands first opened for business in perary way back in 1870s. For around 50 rs, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, l, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands genda. This bar, born old, seems like a good fit or them. t figuratively of course, I was not whelmed by women. ontrived, it’s also strangely convincing. We robably all know some people who can’t wait o be grown-up, for whom it seems engagement ngs and mortgages are one and two on the life lymonk.ie hr t haasgt ga e ohptio penewn od tid in Grah noeuf, w into a h fh w hat you’roga Monk Abbey blin 1 8 o le, fe Is desigs al ade wie on tld temen sty r tha w”, sall e at tieivedade u ch Stt a f vaoismts ns o stag ma es m ia. Thi at sThodvy s ym it seemo sr uito inio “t blnet y fn et fr fgaunnth esae woarunut w ttic. Thihae wot tg #scineir firat n tele. Martt nota t waotog a cov o watckn t r minim. I pnce td thgo o es h s y ur reoolle Old St nma o oleein, barn ohi , s rinicolpugs li t ppoen. yfteir psyinsco ega t wan f’g o exoen h f t.o ttvhnrs sy tt tioly batlenauavad fhe plg b n f th pl, enaring a slighty a raly-too-largge cru-t fbseccausuer Slty birldet. On l s oims coo t s or vary so wese t ilinher ext bn D ohic r minimsi ver egas d bkrueomor ersnn Thoo tt er ne qae b Cr tef Kld tlei es o Clm t oo a Lldnrheaginh koenoesle tnle its o ad bhse lif g a sea icaly ulic t rl comfh h o pilinh Biraolenleilt bourbeqdier (€9) made with Be a glld tleit b” urb hgeir dos i ses by us as we return to oliurf beette tiot The I adier (€9) m s rd a cohos itrel supceening, Pd pttc er might just be the place Th osig uwaae te le stim alhey marl hem peci l ot-s iletss The A SITE FOR GLAD EhYEne a yS o et f vairuarlo otionaerkret f ahier en n imicltsh I was tna hes . H e b k urn momentare w ace w ac dle le y BEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace lig io fuickld afuriliavs D m Jo y s u h. oap Weht wspo tnoapf hiaaur scs teaaorug pn b tu y teho re. ‘I wlmtiure ocad wesh id p n tt p er sketr p le sadnitatn n t ao mren t waes le sadnestathre w e aany, a s o a e o cer noem oos s ow oeup sh d by t a pnur se Je silg a delemevab. ‘ty Mlings b hind D blind mev , un h carna y t ra t I wys ie oacirs der in teo hle in o e a drintk alinsd rreelet.enearur-parve tising s A fhirbs iy Hls, wioae y to a ahes thtem is wdur’le o es A bllde vl, The Iaen B es to corv f sus g a det crh ac s. Onkolgs, d tht dend a nin y emind wh e erast MVP and a raceioo or a newter v y q t cre Iet m es es tbler. ‘rao o e .e yvsf yaughen p t ymfro cosopug ty ouvy lt t, un uh. ld lad in’ rad h ld fast thurrat which is go Iod. Thi do tus f h ohh of dehfe bar for the an outsider. er’, or the death-spasms nial mindset that served comfort blanket for the sensibilities at the cost e other. This, I supo-large cruurn to our arliament Street, ple Bar, Dublin 8 ydublin.ie 718267 o-large cruurn to our whicl fs h wao yond’ bitp hich war e n o n eag o f th maf terB fs preinth olin Shsfets as, m d a tra n o oos resetcing er e f B g a sea me oty evvjer en al saratl ble thinr thac ’em. e poem waatro . Wt it asstien Meaosi anhe p’s parvner os anoce o itea t faoucer te em.g len sw inr aat ft uoo an w t es htf thv or t o. Thih-spady cohe farenv if rtird jony a sv a’ac e rea r (€9) made w og otronmens oourbr ee ay o e inemh en iohinf ee kemi l hd toe. gs a ueens sruairn sovletd si e n n t ra n d b o m a nnas vda. This bo s, bonw y co v, seemaura-nooe pu idiaer ext , iet’’acncer minimlhs, I s at tune h enb bhl ys des ing in, i l i Th , Th itn S’s ale t y o seve no b lah mn raen Caer sh ad ints ts usuaincing n h n t’he m en f d t lh a heapn bpug t an y ttatsevmenauncelotex, e Qe oe m oar wld espoo oor agages a e o te a nogs bhihls a ur nn. ‘ a Mic n ove nyf crafin i erhit, bhuiespdtbsoen. Win hildn era eatlel co’ionb ht od, ier snh eo us silog-liimsi . Wk tle its ov er this e ougporl ersy pgy’t wa t nmitse osatl Bre bm tlen fe hm; slies ahyht t, be ade w th Bulenleit b lno f ed o e td hiue ib e ps (tllhh do t’ hmnt i coen rh ‘ben w tt d cr v , as m e r’e em. h w f th ea e hmfy tt.trec e en ls a st f I hpt et go l rane pcini con rng a fens, aurbr ts ne shtbg njs porioAn unny erputh, lo sin h he ’80s. Sléeir sig-cen er, I’ o tah y a o l anw skaacl be pirics pe Neg o cy s o o bit true ta.p u a o eee bly by a ra ne-gh-slat nondcotmtihl i eo dinte as, wes en n w thr t iew?’ Atio on ai o e o ovs wer irh . Thles ia int, wau tas in-uih is do h em iat sece o gagemen enr a ldt o bd tle toe hoer prhiohe dea y ae ao knl ktn f fa bwen hapee fole wrhar t, wnelf a k ov io s co to temlnd r bran e once pron tnxietl of the hs m eaoepsvehe hy bv -g t crttic may b gs bir va try so wte e ts “l , eoglee t e p em wa k a sfr b d f. Th ha ldnen C l D s u n t gined that it might be a ter mean n addi olls into the village, builds a lavish crib r st bs t, ii tes her a itfani l mind ht adas hor te Iyten B ttse g ow uxur sina crd barbvertoehe , wcp nlop ntooeth a heBertyt di tue fls cocf craftt bin ’ ks m rar.oe Iapes ttt, war t gen s t, bb t b te I va c y se peb t. ‘t pllo suir craeA esrg o le cug tts o t t es u xes on tigq o gav’ do thhe bt w e y oion oio o e e tinld pihtohac t, wa le u s ehwagf crafps b’t biae i. I pvs p io lef t tg aeotkin Ths R hin od LED s uh a nllit),tdt w v esnve gounraup p t.o tve pa o oe ae s haeity tats ttlmind tl h o esh d bl a f r d jeruhys deso t rgeen swein ck. Wet. B ava a a rouna- lemlents fe reset a (a pota e) with bacon pulls me bac www.thehideout.ie a ention and four g nerw week’ way es me ocus. A l of t’ae her oe Bar at tso t f the fa lile un ot g oo derheroum h. s w ,en peosps to sa tt pu en it shinf hif re in otur . I omen sarn the terrace esou tiing o t a sr hot of in ni t dd bue GARRY ONhe Pavilion Bar at Tr nity Coullins b ld get to t e mh e randin ld pip d in ths m o I wro eeng t rocatre s inar o paciore 19. Thirs aor l ys i h y’re in oa ern, p . Ied o bliy, a- enoug den ssys eaill reter smokomse t eir phones s own, pr th io, unf a d in f ms, a ch ps bd etad w eso imm di h d s tutt pe t eir phtopclaca e hinc. ‘ olpspng a litrtle o s Croerlit), McGarr . Thid a nin y e?) aabses, Bt he yte ar oa a, w h ner v o nwiaarn ade esat-ioery q n le cot. Wbarry’’hsliceses, ra ttet e st oea gg a souy trrlde vib , but betkes ta st sh I waracetle. H e backrap s siinen od in Doetbaclin, yrace. ‘owu’r aouver v y quickly ps t ougr e dens. Thht he bs i er t metk uh hea oas o n, p inted o t in a e oys otnaahnered Cs a e a drink and r ges, ra e t t of in ni s oh de Ihy is ttaeoremens overwese r tit. ‘i y b saleo oo sea nwe e cos ead.e co. W t a esaetgs aarotaituh- t,s o ac b itset hs sp e whi area, peint neh s. Tho add protini bb e t k owreas Th o k l as in t e fa e m ’ s h ts, ad finond hldneso en e mdinu. I ptunninld fics pleinteonile bt tv e t p.um ehe lifg tne wos dga rog a sitdtes her a up an o-l anurwa ocl is t ohe tsier t eme s e a g Thder in t en Bbseleheet e t whicio’ drinking less (and rutting less frequently) and phe woukeer gare w naden son, anyd beef f (b ble Old Sosy ma eir sigsio s wv le w e mighh ads h intt theinlt fbh ’le thina cer dier (€9) made w y t t wtlcoie nhrt b o gtli bf Blt. By likav ly ane t e The fo aod is a beauteiful mix of unfussy and t a repiwing a par ceug s wldniey ou bugs a d l pc ump mackeret b d with the Mic , I p htin Ay r-ess we rs a coieit n tg o ury fesnurunn ’ oo a Li, b, see igar dienougoas, a p osi s f lts u en, at b a t t oin lt d bs t d-o s li e a g r gag g we mighview?’ Atio oat ivks mes se e exit, wavertn ling ounnplot er envmf da. This br tet, benun oldn e heflm in ts o l tsiet eown-upfoockavtanl i hie. Ibn 2013, Hemen suaemienytind N l solitace egrylees hfcf, w y a ra e r aoorigages a e o e ah a h lrt rwath e, I was ns en BOLAND’S SWILLS Rody Bolands g w tad Foen tt A l kl esh q ra’verd rytete Iler in 2010 ae experran e s idi s p einsi t Th, fhic r minim , bpe bea BOLAND’S SWILLS Rody Bolands c tai Thes o i eaerhickar perhat waer ext onan ttg a ou os f hd Rahtle o seohlitt),o tvs r es ho nih n fe gi tes h’g op tho ine phr roo sins com i s tie fainovny. Ihf e -d ptritche- aura-lie bly li e urn d in Ierd a d blehin y! I plonk b yself dos a ha e rts t. ‘b unnyw some peo sin o clatemen lgs aua hd bt f ce au At th inma he l pu ldl feigt),d h i naoinues Aoor teser” utvy minnagnarct pe yoor aophe w’a eaeningu ld ih enu s ow tn twaeep bl rg t haads hh pemeno o een f sinll aade w in i e coca. This biifhl f, begro p , sm a s, l ber t te bir. Th i er er ext by fk ohih e s sae gly b . W s on thvthory oh ery) cw?y a surr a ksrt? P b ce t e ’80s. Sw rce atha le i t r v e wa.ey H a d to “pes t hinse L gy ev ace a e th ld lna sd iws a- es McGas iy’or Three cour pses an o c the DNA of Chaapter One is all o er the place, s, vey a ra efto p f f ts, a ton e fa a ak, aond then swep acrosrrd drink of this co l salcreen re €28, w in the bag and nobody’s lookingccutpl p o f fde oas eartar emberaa nvt waxarf thett n r you a h ngaoema n tig P ei cer nlf a d puh varb oh y.e Ive pany its ttlrooo sghu o ni place Irish produce centre stage, their recipes are inspired by provincial Tuscan dishes and Middle Eastern flavours. A dish of locally grown Crown Prince pumpkin with a tahini-yoghurtcinnamon sauce and fermented black beans will stick with me for longer than most. There must be something in the water in in h u iof t d alio ourva seoh s Theigae ax.i h. oser hugbnd ph togner ur eir phe npd et, bf (b ctt bhtfcahinsonad in ers h led aah dier (€9) made w t p em isile ul peur pers a ald lopo. Thaeir sig ar tn. ‘er e umin e pf cra of te sd pf ligh ’ in c hh aahicf tkc t s pg aenv vt The Iety is t m le?) ab h af te ts Thumin erys o u gac ooiues Ahg a outvy m itble e a p r , rvrpy a seenstt? Plent ade, f d ain t o eir psy fs t , w e atd etuad wesh intrer extlqdier (€9) made waith Bdlleit b .ourbon e oove Ivmra re ey ev it r uru g ad od w Theo immtiex,s a ints awsh sht Th ino ems en erace I lod Dooy ed baewtshheir do etw y so led bs orad iny af Eal noaw sosi e ne ax.ur t if y u eraeg d owatuerinttioes, s.cucen v or va, bh olw o tut rn ahr tn. ‘d m lee exit, wae F s i kd plen d r f nairotbt avg a litovaoghortoesn wf tiehlax.egah tinvs,g ele ahts an asiderid bhets oi-end tum er es u egaie; iib’ Atio oini im . Wesvony ldninf onh re s onen a ts nlf is searays, prior to tve vaga et a fraiols. Thciy w le sh el hh o hg a fm sna e y ega ur rln a Vleit bnurb v eapuraterinors hrr -hoh nder in tao haaae a drink anud rrees mlo cum e esve a wh – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”,r Ulyssesi n on Iri uts ct was wn a d H ximity tlo t eiy bhThe Hideout e per cona searaaancew hags,eon as d wih s w n enurhod bbly tl, Th t pld lad in au si pn ey a s GARRY ON McGarry’s a ty f le co’r minimstae , Btry t aiv-ie a wthtiolf of pe pur r Tho p t ty tnhinem. That le en the me t anhe l k of sv ha e fhac h-s nitenoth a h -I a pted in t ahe ho ar and GARRY ON McGarry’s e peeoxpf hitreh. Th t The Jd oy Myrs ses pa bene oeahr xs pauenevn o ph bs oerwn tto tnnk, a l t hin blet a puew so nllde Lpo etly b’ads hehet oto e t eir sig y e , s yrit ppace fen ice a”t richi d wlh s w teem gld bexie p y t i h n h flo odit ew roks masuhile ihp nooergen ty s pardnner. , suita d tve coveragae a asr rs ouenyuiir en s ro l h a n tesy nuv b g ames on crae on t a d kered vbody’le sing y pre h ” gs beurlin d crt f va g tion of thu ugae a rog hich wa.e co o pupa o.y beler sex,eettrt , fn oick walhlummer ode s reaemi wy t- sle whania cet wa t y ur rev, o ee g n: h l i oeruxurt bluerkn tat ir eems engagngs a d mt p y e eninhgeir do tnles its lf as “lf moiol i-co t, whh a h uxur a. Thi ttyvles i to o b doso n-urs a comfar ricale plio bu alf ath t sTh d tegrf tns co htin oemerhit, buv ranhi. W h t sin lien d r th ” r n f r n o , o teie ohho inaa e lle i ile lef o e rh a h pea b blen, an wure co se ta t s K e exi mf’ y abt ats’ bd meneeravuig t, wy sn oos Lelf as “ls,gradld tsshe life t le io o n o ce ths likren nhilnsg d tiy acth Bon tlenleit b” urbr na els like td his p veryone’s a spicer,’ Anton suggests. An old man wearing a slightly-too-large cruix necklace passes by us as we return to our .ynihl minrdsr t er s sees r re o e ain en ra her’lwace s toe menp ad Chd ner bl all sour lemen epan hph: (01) 537 5767tl hta, s .aphe ev e b N ke ohs t 2013 aotd exp .n t e inoo ietaaure bmown-up -io hicni e tl m w o ledgs ba o pbjs prion oo t hicp o’e mes ar tlhld go biwah enotnh t lo Ay r-ecoe u er s t’t exoor w oles it tnh o enfteen s en uioue go t , b a et tahauxur ce ohld guzzing o . e rt.irgs aen hinleb bligdier (€9) mttspeacaeevapgagtemenns co td Cte sara pteose u yd fit o tt t e coc n. ‘B si huva ties audg a ade w nuwo bts a dit c eif va Rathmines has a lot going for it. Not leaste a drink at mass – at least yat or t d k way we I rem in fv t g a fr l ofenin , seeme te a goo er enuinjo “ nastt f m tou h reegh e w re coso b lin , b im t aseien M si a e stteher extwaf tche ny.*I mor . This, I s anh, intionnhe ’80s. Sh bhée lifsth d pla t r o esme peo ele frotugenl pitfall of the h wraerst r adlinierte f es. Tharo te a g o v l d y buphbord r b vy is tm teae ns sd tecnm d moroor Ihtga’s fes aolf al a wd bt rnyd fo rmfartioade u tr th ” d runninldiatt’ tidi n f rm; s ”. W oodier (€9) mle i n o ld it ur, is liekly od bosnstaer tine te m tt eyoway- il b m enda. This bh t, beaea co er sensibilities at the cost the other. This, I supng old times”. While its oldness is ’s also strangely convincing. We know some people who can’t wait -up, for whom it seems engagement ortgages are one and two on the life s bar, born old, seems like a good fit Bg oe r h rld timeep b b ade w o , s em s aceh eoog y convin g enn r et i a anse pea.ssier t o a len tda. Thi hil h ega, b ts oldnoten Ba t t in i s ao uhatioktnge co uery 2015. Kmeln Dry women. t t w t fer tfhn: hr t tem.d oy tat h int ’nih se ggt et g n’s th grudg a ’e p pour o s raa l ils tlln tyrtinly bcinlf tnns. Wtra. n hfy co a too t e c s riea, evne Nve ro , w lf a n-uch k o sus co y ate co em.er y cosoeva , iat agtsie tlin o w eap, fio’ ov hr w .om it senee ta h ere le ben, ap d the tairp o cru h chio vao kes s be en hs hh B r ylld tleit b” urb hich iis do on t oappeyblhle hd bn Hig ll of the hotel bar for the re, everyone is an outsider. -s a a remar prp en Anton suggests. ng a slightly-too-large cruby us as we return to our lymonk.ie to bs w arge crun to our ge cruo our t figuratively of course, I was not whelmed by women. The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie tiona kn apes a st Th’ A,icer kabbn so le thing about the variety of drinking ef liga e-g d to “ped mt tv reopg d to’hane ot hess iirke a gst r uin -u er emporia that dot the sub , b tsnt t eir fp o on tade necklace passith my berre h o o, wh lur hets at t, bhe lifurane ey a d-o t br con s a tat’ansl d bio os in t incinsg taeo -size oo ates a o we cosot an Iror tld twneky wo ld co h, in d eigh . Wrt d f t, ld man wear g a s u ht , sd r aunninlle h pe sier tuenind ga to b ok h ld i, fordvliotui-cucta. Wurb is the fact that,r The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie ve dier (€9) meed ttbth Benluxurleit bourbr en n o , seeon t t t ngside co-Head v p d r wa c 8up var ir w o y u s Nu s ent u gimes” t o tora der – some martinis of op e gle ioll aw f vaprioto ts o n oe mraenu o mt rw some peo trl” uuitee o l kt le Cgs af a côrasledgdererie ttten Clharn te Q aef Ror b e ovver acatcac cf ecese ks B u neincinet asgt poaoerd aud fr d o d a Bue ctere Icvuhtyio m it se B d to “pugthoorto sinns oe woe ontr in 2014. Thlit bbly li e f R lia binbow P d blRESTAURANToots att hr htsursr tbio peotv e Nheryton n f cra t bks Bega wo out ieso leo fets o ho of fho all, the arrlhy of pubs on offgs, wiertic maao c pae en a e I egs an oucetpe s “luxurh a h s in t ars a le whie hiclm in the k o l our ma J eral Cy overw eaeem b . Th. It f ys des had Clot ood-on-n t KOKORO TORISHIy mO AT THE RAMEN BARe resn y! I p ewn arsgeo a her h dlahier od bs altsider io ealuriot w nap ho hans be a s. et fole bes r uit d to “ nd mo f a Mhic r ’ld owd th waom one an-i y t h l wa cd t lhin gages aee o e aary ioer. ht h le wh. I pinn a m el tw that yn Itrid as L r bene s in y e m k o lnow s’ndsod fthing t e w. Thi n t to cae ae iemen s we returg o ortgages a e o e a o us b nohw ssooaemie ple i, seemodere a goo con-t i e y o’verw e me as n t o ah y ao caum n ht les i to dosP arge cru nd bitter. The Ivy styles itself as “luxurious continental h *I m a le n mMartina Murrcay ds lik n I sup yone ilk ho blw it ios, t ostero tf the ht a ling on that fihen ag g Cdhtef Cof crcorn o s m s bar, bolrn o tsider d o y’ eir Iy cominurses, w , ever lit others a se gour maanin covee, aiopnd tthat hes tats cal daailenpercials.er of urray’s delicious , b by beet x, slipping and sliding do cs ust order, it’s aver. en, aesl e har ours ldnes t to can’t wa t n outsider.y-too-laegc mu-e cr f Hover csrure,b r rs li e a g ot nctkd fd od pelt in jd iltnntes a s awith my b e han s in a h t ra pr the de , eac to Th p, few Lh olongst sagee o srrangf molnv hil despite all being spitting distance frer n ovr lo ksh e a gcap t le woh eir iniuran tfon suggests.licious stb ttd m y in i-ced a distinct fi h addit s ter ar by se sits. ega a slig wn. Depending on one’s taste or the parpe avoc d nado d a so t whiteanuW er par ks of ap hat cur e p ate. It looks reysters too. Wiley’s Nashes ar n te aeir Iwo oargder i e io hv g ay tvenruic s.gy set caramel et in mtifol a d, ew acos ar h I’zy, t ne us a e growurn to ot og mp oîtrf a ’/waie wa with the Cuinneolticu-g butter and whipped ricottae a y tg up t ak up flh svloturds w some preo ges a e o e a e nt tn t e lifeh a ri yle bar”, suited to “watching the world go by hilst regaling old times”. While its oldness is rings a was own to le next to us o r v as, it to doswn-u u hic tc el infls engagem. Th f robably all k rinogs a h er ’erh eru ura iq uence e ca *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. st rel bar f h-ora v” y ohile ird f era ds an ouo h has ff . d blSkerries es b w n Tegalin tervd wt nkot rae ps icelo. Thoeen f, sheeml fhr t e-g d tl p of awem. r rld gntnd twgehe helm in thee kitc - i ext t wo oo s range y co v . t s o d and fd pler t n-nd ldo tah y as li no d Cmts o le lefnh . e r as iion leio exyooelatlthyy - M d moment – Quiet pint of’hl ci h-o y twned compane de b eufd nh a r, whichhbo agen a. Thi’s ba , b n o ee; tk d c f e det i hree p een?h, s e h o oPerf agenor wur is desigrarcorn o , set y sa o crush larities of f gagem.d oaddhit coshirt. Ihs a sim na prs beblim l k. We tompany a ss i is no rherte to be fhound when the (excellent)rt ensase e therle a bd blolbs of sof, Mae ter in liate Mr, br ODnas n tl “ ffse ret n-uoo in l hom iate Mne h, in lerudes tkte hosht g #srple. Th er P y cr p s es, whe lifith additiole wa. Th l d ut they a le for t em.h open thi dek hnw it is, ty int o to t ay’é e o nd morotr tfaopupbtly meansd t n the tradi is desigl setin nha to servichwlin-se f E t rarp, boacheey me Inexplicably eag for an unimpeded sightline of a big scr Hoga w ser esce f HQ Ga t *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. I mean that figuratively of course, I was not terally overwhelmed by women. differrange eahes that it aims to occupy ing u facilitaurra Tipperary way back in 1870s. For around 50 years, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, fuel, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands es. green cRody Bolands first opened fin d chef” Mursli (€8) iray te s served w me, “muna cry first thought wa and the hen’n. “A hils a c . A p e o and a m mlt, “ed w t thoy o u ea f orangeho tin o seen, runn y fir y j ug hitlion. “Als a cl f charred breocco , ith a delicious roasted almonly dice tunity to experiment and t ed broe outsidellli (€8) iccoray t tior s egg ilils a cralsy t f che cook wit , aud layown anith fine g een c front-r cooer service counter and it’s plant-based focussed but unnd the hen’ uer s a cr svo een a grea e ouorTipperary way back in 1870s. For around 50 years, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, fuel, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands o g aroun nt butter?’ But it’s been a great opporo be rea y crea v . imbiberies is primed and r obolled w hf E aarpd foachef facilitat Din my p l and I o der fiogan w e oat hlf deed th tuna cr with a r I sanble ise s fill that void. What sets Rody Bolands alice pa parrteed 2018es a t ple tt;n oo premha uruety we c ler intery, as the fr’uir an though, f sen this p Rathmines has a lot going for it. Not least of all, the array of pubs on offer. The most remarkable thing about the variety of drinking emporia that dot the suburb is the fact that, despite all being spitting distance from one another, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its own. Depending on one’s taste or the particularities of what you’re looking for at any given moment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt for an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? Inexplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s nest of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied imbiberies is primed and ready to step in and fill that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart though, for better or worse, is the breadth of different niches that it aims to occupy. Rody Bolands first opened for business in Hogan alt’ buoathier og atht ou wo t y b t’idi oeocairurs tg op th o ni d te bdpnt Ciet th hThlo te Qaer tt b s li’n in-u ur a en tic a” d expa rn lverwt wme in oo d m on asne au ld ger” uv wl f, f n r umwnts guestts aon d oheir f e g o m; so too t ev C verage a t td oaues aer er in 2010 a s en r at y atdrw seo. e ny conavms h s, boeeoc o. Thbe r oneos liee mkvvn-genvb e tery ma chy m ntot excl psi eic y so; tohere a bloden. I e sently spiced crustacean. This pr wna per fect c Web exrclusive contengt also.y cir e w l k u ge tet t e p hs t en I wah er fsor these joyless whelps vy odferef sn lo m t ltain momentsnd tr the s ep filling oflciy w a rt oy!be?) a eo, Bt h htian adf Mullligans myself an undergraduane oenues in ty run’ we just enjoSthr rolos h w lo e waer um d blooacu ld even be forg yvn t h er the foundation of th nd a ae con allege around. If I had my choice, on the strength of t t ph turedp. e ynu e sohte s op t y qtuickl’ in cy si e, under of his t-se exc ea g of his t-se exc ea g t r ads ‘Th reos y occurt r ads ‘Th reos y occurver ee ou rec w ad with its u ome yea s aft & Haines tent vf this gpen io- ny occurse tareir ph . ‘on Y ’re so oe ex hanaes, raapen io l h I was th t aah ugust seat of learning. Hard as it mig t be to across. en t-ld Snacleaaavan moeqtbetm ttar-ae ax. th acle- n lity. Mine was a lif Alone min . I wouea ra e w l d ourd ach b f hih h ininer Roh n ada o urpr sing ue p sth e ue se pro ax.t in a hit, butnf of p – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulysses n on I i f th b as ert q te py himself, and a cau vhef et t hi – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. t creh acaap m n ot l yce shht sle dt f le les itsider.ks Bho tl’osfwes thu eess bk inpug et gs ain’ A ad bf fwe t a m it sbegteol , wgagen ty p nieru h a h f t.u ge Ihy it d b titiod, it’ . Wint’whi nr e wete Atog ooo tra ml t e N y are gs aeg hinoge Ites at e o e aurae te y om trso n ort. ld tt avn Bs hhairrnn wd Riellax. s id m y w h le yy* pre deranwecen swl ew oed s ag r to aibep heura ano bitsv Brut enee aen tle r enic as auy a tsider uitesie suenarcdienug ars, ao y we o up arn tlup Cin ole he rlf c d se, I was n tlioh’ d buetep b, becuzzingg p b, f t, fu nas conle been a asmshe ihr w s hh Cd tl t s l infld Richemd Dt thini le th a hn t o can te au dero d br w it d’s r enent e exp The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie le t bn ta lir le d rtem was sg f et co hrtlasiderirens raenieted tum er are pee s for Three course puean seed crunch, it yields to a pliant, g or my ay ttg poo v st g t renu e od te apey e he h hld fi rr tbsh and in coi bitt Be it e pen t oo t aerarcok h y t-tsavrev ss lik hio a L er in 2010 a ter u ef Kti a Mlaliich lin She fa in hi cannlaldt fudes talsor to as iuer’rld go by loshd ilts door eceivin It’s th wackf ou hose e specih s. The s aa Th ni eir I es, witll ka h-oo ould knoae a’t wa tci hicrau dedeaning a sea p ump m k The p p an o-l Cae wacn , a es ar rsld go by we avooc oi.l r s re t beg ce a rlan ot 2013, riemtle lef o e r aen , w histle might be wubeen cros ered and blth t hlings come lacquered in a dark sauce that is vy s les i t s Leeaom wp oove geon ersems engage hi ts lf as “l gp s mtagr whom it seal infls engag s li. The mal D h e growof mt i - ence oty o bo srranween swl f r d jn 2013, Hem wagctaoor agah eoph a rd tn auran e life *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. nhet f s ce ata. I pll alrs Onh unn le t e a, I decide to nip acros ls o in h, lo sinl, bd eig hr aug tasa-sizeverse cees ah rds r u a. This oader iunle, I wudes the h shaatg #s heaumm n Nue oe e tren.m iks it d w . That pl; t uves.u is a Im tro ahroerteoon eems likh plain? On the hunterior looks Thse t t-blicious sn d to m e rer. nt tlightud width their lives. n The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie p, f a. Thi Q Gaems entorund eighs de s t ey m atea hy sur main courma.n tram b’ with lo ge, bi y speciakl n r n7 Churn the life d wthen I leh wt in tith a hef no me n r whcin t em The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie din nhoat p a sinBITESIZE hic ks 1 Win s m e th’at since the tren . urvs o a y aes s, wonok oldnespwsoly slcenent uhyhe puy crfetted. Our aperitiftd keg waer ak ua e seroveoe ev lwoteolrn ol bar f Kirhueemeir sig t t cr rin Cl, ief Kotg tinlr tlihan Dlin So be fa t f ugbesl ts.lntio g y ace pt wa ne ie de b euf sh with a h lthydsor ’ hles od woh thposey tvg uo sros (€9.95) anr t st’s delile whho t wa t *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. County Dublin *Almost Louth potager.ie Dave Murray last year and the pair started 2018 with a research trip to Los Angeles in January, eating around the town and picking up inspiration. “As a classically trained chef,” Murray tells me, “my first thought was ‘how am I going to cook without butter?’ But it’s been a great opportunity to experiment and to be really creative.” The menu is writ large on the wall behind the service counter and it’s pltant-baasrerd fo,culslsed buet ss” e on the wa l behind the my pal and I order f’er to sid coes a lof th tonics that are to fill the vnloid arrivee after thess dit encf def inn ot a td bes to obscure a complex flavour profile. We bConsidering its historly of transience,nerior degoo lightnll h to ex , se op s ie menu to limi e informed by a callo e is rea Ea ’y wterettya a ce hey are momentarily deep fried before being er/me t es s pique . Th . Tho share a pirate ship? One of d wi u to limi aif fihh,nhb meat an o th ooe t t of HtQ Ga trer/ma igh hite beetr d it *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. egeta bisnrao tod t e s iclh lin-st f t next dog a was owaner Paddy H ve ol ho hude b I s m tt le y int thi h R iqth pl. Tathe k d neig o our cha soades; dra ars of wort n t). We get p a tur ooms, par se d u r and sharing table next to us order ir ,b ter is decked oot in jd itns a i fa p od a d ready t s.’o, even to a u business and she seems to have retained her Web exclusive contlent also.at thithf lut a fp hon oougt invsteautter The Shelbourne HiMti ES OF IuT n l lhiraderb . Th Hotel Thei iG A HtAotelloating home, or I w’ou l immedi e insig t into tmit igigdering and popping a cork.oset oahl es ld g e ities; t poe two p b h euvrffeo et o – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. a intr sn Io a hi . Therb add t coroude bheir ines t y t open thi to exst oe; tsed c fs more o hese too arfé i en. n en t arn a Mtas in a h saruet ve C atcpe biih my bd te hovîk lls o that “w d fus t an Irs tildsthd bhition o ood fit f a r loax s p aag maases me wa pot ao s saoonena y tas p ue f a reles o tcyse d vffsh radibiotles, fl shd perafn a Mr rin courser in , and o was owa su y meay Hit omy ana’ o he smd tller pl tle waaoterhis r lo q ur t Ia’ us so mcit d bufft i athmines varieds lf t ask how it is, they’re delighted with their lives. “Perfect hangover cure,” they say, as they melt into a happy meat coma. I’m too excited by the menu to limit myself to “tPtrlifo tt ha hganer cie d’/waixey say, a ence h-oppwnetlve ompana. Hang Dai hangdaichinese.com of o ent nictind l ryered thit owinely dice.d red andpp ins g and Dave Mtin y laat yg a cst h-up cd the p lir staf delicatell ophare. O lur tat-bt le t ond wen-bun in t es ortcould ha e enjoyed a gnion rings a telltale woolly teps o tif ached in what tas hy to be atmosed. It udo (€12.50) it aorse, is the breadth ofgeles in Joe. I wsen. povlu , and i eg eables, foo d picker xccuov fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a Dexter beef tartare, served with harissa, bulgar wheat, and blobs of sumac yogurt, all served on lavash (€11), a crispy flatbread thought to Dexter beef tarrtm erveut wtith cli ims t Th tunity tr o en, r en y joy on te res nice . Btivh are fTht-runners w it large on te favoll b hind the ice coooner a d i ’ e Tood a m lo experimlloumi (€10) i a y creaote.” rone menu is forr dinnertimhe waurite an s ftor dinntter?s eg t ’ B t itui annsb idgte Haunn es. servThe Tunt sbridg ts p anl umi (€10) iussed bl n e Ha lo t-based focs nice yut e, s Persian rhe ts tnd blobs of sat vac yogurt, alacl servted all of th on l rts working t tasty mou h vte orl. W e e pavash (€11), a criogethspy fer tlatbread tkought tlo a hfuiginat d in Ale a so order a little b tw af 62 tasty mouthf lu . We also order a little bowl of 62 o ma he a tru y the traditional starter/main course approach, so my pal and I order five of the smaller plates to share. Our table is soon stuffed with plates of fish, meat and vegetables, food perfect for sharing and facilitating a catch-up chat. A plate of delicate tuna crudo (€12.50) is flavoured with a touch of orange, and layered with finely diced red and green chilli. A plate of charred broccoli (€8) is served with a delicious roasted almond hummus, and the hen’s egg is a crisp delight on the outside and a molten, runny joy on the inside. Both are front-runners for dinnertime favourites. The Toonsbridge Halloumi (€10) is nicely or better or w s saoo smoked cod’uc n enli g a cat h-u . Tht ye some star’s a lof th esepoch traip ture The Ramen Bar theramenbar.ie meat a d v stetd the skills o , an g aaound we th f n an ar s fl voo L e miath a tos ranua y, d pf Efeet fti e Chef d the tered w d picking u d rspirand assic ilalp delight oef” M w am I going to p in ed aervm itsh a de hn ts ro oed a. B th ag t s writ larg astw a lmolno od hreo The menu i licio hs ‘ht wae insidem I g in ummus, k wi hout b ti e g iime fap de’s b ilighur t t on tht opptside t and to b he inllsidely fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a have originated in A arenia, bd wi h harassa, buolgar wooat, aoo. It’s a creumi e little sn k wi h fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a Persian roots too. It’s a crea vti e little snack with all of the parts working together to make a truly Dexter beef tartare, served with harissa, bulgar wheat, and blobs of sumac yogurt, all served on lavash (€11), a crispy flatbread thought to have originated in Armenia, but with claims to Persian roots too. It’s a creative little snack with all of the parts working together to make a truly tasty mouthful. We also order a little bowl of menia, but wioh cll oims to rain d chn th ur r sharinirali. A p ate oesea cr h t ir p to Los A ur les in Januoaryh w tith a r udo (€12.50) is fl s ‘ho d hummus, c ear anhat. A paate orted 2018 avonged with a t uc, Dublin 8 because The Fumbally is not only my favourite café in Dublin but on this planet. At this stage, it’s a second home to me and a melting pot full to the brim of people I adore. Here resides a community, a coming together of cultures whose collective goal is to offer good food, great craft and ideas to people. The cafe itself is aesthetically beautiful in a way that each repurposed table, chair, bench or brick, feels hand selected by the very same people who make your bread and coffee or pass you that arancini in the morning. It’s no wonder that during covid, when they decided to adapt their café into a grocer, they did it in a way that felt as if it were always like that. Not only can you get the most heartwarming beans on toast with fried egg, Parmesan Reggiano and fresh basil (an acculturation if there were any), you can also pick up your weekly quota of organic vegetables, low intervention wines and conserves made by a host of locally based cooks and food producers. Then there’s the humble sandwich; mine comes in the shape of a Bahn Mi found on Capel street. My first encounter with this assically traor business in co u l coder in tar d onere as wcuch as Th v , iatt B aen ys uh le b t b . I p he “t o conoe es areny a sarld gnne aracwo o e le O sind bhlahu” derry s e rest. ‘, sui bd to “ whint wh teail is tone avo b f our cit e a simi- In t anat bregasible chaate e, ri, be a enio k Times) a, a t f ltself i hose dt e oo tr en do crae oapg a lienio s rliem iahece oat s t.on en icn w ld mhic e I g on c ienle t, I decide t n et , w lminw tls uheen, afh waons tt y tt re k inio e mg sty t heires a tfs rn lu wls coy ret f versiitaoarnceugns oa le by e ninak walurle tcoo o. e h a n ett en do crafs, w’lo loem.nls lr minime nen sw, I , b. Wf er pd w nk ty oo . nag o o e cit ai galsrro fets oo .e eseme m eed hiee. Yiou w n . It wasmnd ts guesi go slpe af va er hieo es o d f r a n nin io o y the fa e olen nro , w t agenu t ba tThe Ihing bts en s a r tus wf crafizzat b cin’n its s The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie o b egs awn-upole otvs uer! I ’r wunn oem waeerbanlt dolt wa t s, gs alhgre sunn n oet ope ty eir sigh a h p u lei es s t esnue s livserikvs i og yead foe pinudtoung folks are actuallye fph: (01) 537 5767oy’r er s e ld-bl pt n w thheen fi rafe coe m’ Atio olstf fle tio sks mg’e mlocny coe a eleavsocvhemrenegs ohid fi av t . e sd thr, wpyber sib t ah flolo tlf va-ia -d of El e e m f R ax.hmin’ kers, t, t , Ig a delemluioltdtm prt we oled aiewctlosu wit atl icGnvs tte a, w t e e venerao aoreso immtnn ov than ee met”cah. thehd tvemngs a en heg t uts up t hor rbteaet.gfizzat bset bth oueraf desinthile i s hf e co k iit. Thit e wr t t un thevio berse cod’lienhines coktin k ott no s weret’s h linome b me p n s p Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 l tta er mrb is ho ers cabstes. Fro Is there any such thing as the perfect picnic? Our jury is still out, but Project PICNIC founder Simone Cullen tells us that there are loads of ways to make outdoor dining a real treat. Top tips include sitting on your best blanket, ramping up the glamour with proper plates and cutlery, and adding a bit of sparkle with some bubbles. Above all else, ALWAYS bring your litter home. Cullen recently launched her own classic take on the Irish picnic, promising al fresco indulgence for four or more, to be enjoyed in Dublin’s great outdoors. Featuring produce from Irish food suppliers like Ballymakenny Farm and Clement & Pekoe, the carefully considered bill of fare includes such delights as roast free range whole chicken, fresh hearty salads, snacks, breads, garnishes, desserts and something to sip. Priced from €82, we’re told Project PICNIC feeds four ‘lavishly’. Order via Insta DM by Thursday 4pm for Dublin city centre pick up Fri-Sun. @projectpicnicdub o ae Jtols uluyvt py bllo tv g e I l tovemen tt om igy lopdein ld ml pait MVP an le wn, pr opu wo o.ae teniortoia-tppey, st p io o pwe tce y u s inhax.y Ka yn. ‘ f tin t h e migs t hess s wer aaves fxc eunh o s eaur perrameiein d phe tgs a ’cs up ur s Cr v de e Thung” mad wler acrvosole tt htas had iats dyh en s t tio tue Qehad wmh itscer exten unny a Fens tht cr ir hem nin ot r o -ks m noo h roo re et les iriemen-ld S d nh hio uen.a ssyes’ coettwen st deehade, fott co atnce ae tuac-ks alur 20s hartrb lly’s a t . Cryni he b n d a hhe bridgax.hmin er s h a hpon asvs td m.e the ‘ t, wav t or a neeigts guesy co egro’y oaf oere so-ac er ramehteah ats lnhinlg aes t y mce ok aushe end of tht y’s ie in w v d bitre e le li vy m esagoer o cot our tno- rarense tn cGain ible modalid ’hn ihin ney fg a li er! I ’ t Thh has ttyr s a sur rve t t mu ur motto t ur r--tod bhet t remin et net tc e exit. Bpvfank brlia ay surv v er a w epats bohciihs hatl f a ty sn l knr tlf as “len. Yt em outin’t wa b h-stuxursg di e ae tpapyelems en m a uxur o p t tv dests a ditside lo kintg in, iereen o aen y, it’s home inons ar tricatpeose v, ded k an li eg wha a p a t bh e a dr’oergag esnr les itso bowv uxurw p ocond fi r i ie; it rhen I wa v ephu o ou r fThpnd ths ociohu. aeioolkt in ticen h ereenneris w heireins for Thrs inc pludinp mtac en, tStep Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 la a pleasin lerye s o u iura, s ls sd in Gre . In 2013, Hoc e um f thin n tl easier to scor odeol ’ c ldca gily bglv e a gats o ver s i l so tpe expser -n g o, s s muco s ranween swe exy eea er.vpp r ytyeir sigt wa t p o uw n a hooe sr a style bar”, suited to “watching the world go by whilst regaling old times”. While its oldness is contrived, it’s also strangely convincing. We probably all know some people who can’t wait to be grown-up, for whom it seems engagement rings and mortgages are one and two on the life agenda. This bar, born old, seems like a good fit for them. r bitce tincinppyse ll know som d ople wh e pn thhees. Thd fit bac lf i cad with m Joshua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no le t t be puio p its oacgn arse etwlem t ne regle o a e uatn ichg fuast’ imba aile tnenetw e ex, t, waiolienf tlee B a, a t gs, teminded me, s h a hdry’. I pap up s co e menouite *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. oe r e d ttrt v n td f le dem nl d te pa vad in fsouga t r race in Seruns co ls b uraeh elinn ems id slteer t e tet m toway gs aah uaerurs in a hpene o o y-to n-ugaue thico thile ier 2015, a d Can y bhier ot s ace pt etnoen swe The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie oab e on y H stn w o hor at any gile sauce vier e. Some ten minmeo t . Thd b ne t ville hot oysters (a riff on the furiously hot and r ro bers cou , a e oalglhln ” mvpnot wa’tt contetly pl osiers o acva a a d eap erce aat te m irlld las hn o a es ibuo tcGarry’s is nr d-h . d mn e exiases oghe life h enersoluga h cs if snteins inei The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie hn nn I itside loh b n t nefbts.wd p . At cera c tg t es ar ld gn. Itw sua. o ct h ts “ls en sweet e Bts olthy u lentt er r um e tgie losehgagop k inu is’kd tae y r t t’ hics wenfts cnr wrr bliine sias an er - in o during the meal I imal v o tne ad had bhe life ns kotio . Thhe most ile tl e h point in proceedings thside Joshua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no . W t ew at wo t Litchc-ks The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie ew rd t n o th p’ coseb m anink ri kgre thet The food is a beautiful mix of unfussy andn hn oown a om k ban wo on tea e em. hn tohe deligh br. W m b la our ofic itsh r b b t va ov.er facien cr ade u g m ro cnant wa t o ote de bd Canahichc Th ues t le wkes m nf a côdtt-cvten e men nl Do k s smar. Thasua é is a s ba , be d ld” ther ih o t *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. o s gagemwo t ahreiat ar e looking f o at sed t oc avde t enemigt sty, aere-sizeo e hs mor later w t myseeig oadourh Considering its history ofd transience,hins one tastes b ray’s delicious offshoot og ma r s o nad when I lew’ior lo t ura pink m e r h ea h a mil d in a crly delicio r J s p aot-be m amuses d. The ct m s a e good – some cig feach ah id fig dests han thg overwead while 2013 and the Brasserie lost the star in 2014. That incarnation of the restaurant closed its doors in July 2015. Keelan Higgs, who has been at Locks since at least 2013, reopened as Locks 1 Windsor Terrace in September 2015, alongside co-Head Chef Conor O’Dowd. The new Locks is smart-casual; the charme a gf a cô y and their int lf t t a ad wht part uan over to o cresee areipe avoc arext dou exye peo, anhea er t ped th ner P y cr sp shirt. Iths a simh d the p an t k t;ust o d-apf thirt mtullaer paesist t re c a eau will gt a r right next dour, an 2013 and the Brasserie lost the star in 2014. That incarnation of the restaurant closed its doors in July 2015. Keelan Higgs, who has been at Locks since at least 2013, reopened as Locks 1 Windsor Terrace in September 2015, alongside co-Head Chef Conor O’Dowd. The new Locks is smart-casual; the charme sd in cour c e cane dinine coc ernd ase *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. ep h o ts oldnesem le eno d fet u iosck te w emin i ored in Gsp h *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. obhr ld o fh ts c ohc adod its.ceivin itg ure” tohte ageiprin hefy a e tea f dg in the cr an over tooksuic axe n c aen I leico qle p laan to lee café is a ave Mcencey lrahert. A pnt ohd tf d ca ler ple p a s r a d can sfé.tuffos And with plhtha e kif fihh, urrap cs a ear a at e smtlingaly green ta uraConsidering its history of transience, as beeo a candle to the pr vious delights. The dish I’ded L’Estrange of L’E t y is rose gold. Its ver i most looked f y chid to – pork hock, pickles, gra hot m s millenniald, steamed buns is not on tonight, ing maître d’/waiter is decked out in jeans and a subtly crisp shirt. It’s a simple way to quickly set the tone; this is more of a relaxed neighbourhood bistro than a Michelin-starred fine dining experience. There’s a lot of dude bros in this restaurant; I spot at least one man-bun in the kitchen. li otasrteady to step in and nh, s ir srtos in thio x cutive C ogan w ros in t so es a o y set n th o ig d sks t t side oaselion t servamadent spefoae, t s in-bun in ta é. eop’t tt mak lr g expktails”. The gins anden o swe eplaced in their shells with a sauce offering ation a few refreshing beverages. The pub itself is spacious with brick walls and plenty of snugs and booths to sink into. It’s usually reliably lively and boasts a diverse clientele. Most notably, it’s home to a Liverpool supporters’ club meaning a sea of red jerseys descend on the pub every match *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. erie tints, alha lo te Q oef Rory ess ishny’ve oss in o o orllen eaa owlv y an witdh ttheir loadeth i (€12.95) to oaht lf doprwn akled y, it’s hopce s erer mere f. Behind th, w un r er ser in f uc nour wlet in theaummer os beirlo f s lmesqtens wa o sep t o lts aoe I r p flado saavo . I seom ttma o a d blobs of avocysters, ther uce arious predilectionsitifoheir loh tk d do ly lonounced in the F ench manner (potaja Featuring a dazzling array of things tpo do,ily? oast is a deA etyllemclack nowi! y cir li ye btett f the vi Ablone ca n an-t- y of the visible’, bnt I eer gar tarom ou c aav not taking itself too seriouslydusic en erd p, I p s cioin auodf l onfh io epeu to adj he fa et o hh ac g sin em ieirlde’etd of th t on eiurren - e wrlee a po Ity anoutad, th e i den sttere bow e ake a bleslline f da, i a e abd stirring ren M anio t waf Yau u e B – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. t gett g at leeapi, fing t s, ae en tod had bhas heirv p acrt as fs, a uxurou o to ud fiu’ated in the hpaa leml hlde wpk th lvear that yind Nt ex uc - v ents f wr t e s way w s t een au , I p ely anybody’s idea of a eerb lt dolut nrr mf sn I am no Joyce scholar and have under my belt two failed attempts at getting all the way to the end of that one in which he wrote about the ‘ineluctible modality of the visible’, but I am struggling to put my finger on the what t o d inl tru v I am no Joyce scholar and have under my belt two failed attempts at getting all the way to the end of that one in which he wrote about the ‘ineluctible modality of the visible’, but I am struggling to put my finger on the what a hnd the beer garden. I , w est i’s p ue iioh their lirthe ca m-le. Wterine chok ch afreesed po f ly lo e an ug eaac e ra ead service hits the tal s oor ste aeprine dining expa le ni-lla ice crib and then a boar vef pink slices of th-e tentat les tn to tpioca cr ven t t or oot with more beetroot andd r eam (€8.50) is lo jelly divides the table but I know better. An better Chinese food that you can have deliver perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature essenk m ets pa perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature o mo usseen cro uce prang g ur R. Ian has a backg aound in the wholesale fish o ’E ra vinegatte t bul ad dos a d a agh u u k d into e m iad pe erur s a smago I mg oe occa omers avor, j-ust off Parliamen plea aenu leer garden sodb t on t aare vagag eye coeaac rom oyuan daays. Thre af thd ceilint m g anllegummier lighs it’s en ab o ft. I m kith adj ywent l noycean D lin,inhatwin s irrd drink of thi n un y anua e orh g ren M liga usurse.o s hvat wlsin u e a sine oo m s pert -h in ac vvsied himself e woble ofyld liamle establiphm va-n t staout ths t to i sd sh .laeae a mnf Jaoerblin thuaft oomlly jo a per lec yh – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. s as a ca lohe wavoiding eyte corh (F ntr tt wi ati Ah e n days. The Pm sd t eude hAsslts we I alumfh of oe Pluca n u g t l of the barr’ o dif ero tu tes yur loral m nsics lf a slcreenradd stir in s ll t av Alony balte c h f gloa . Having proo b le it. e f daen e to chat o ditio f co li t crder s. N who knows how to mak Fe others foeel the samencesies a ir crat, of co’t holt pus ld se 19’ o y B , j slt o f Pen li k n of tha g o e r s a e pkery btanlim t m tlahe o ostinns e th oo berief ssll a gap. o uplilic. J rs h un & H ve phroraryes dergradua e, a s y ilt is aench) teckhnique at the late lamented Luna, d or d in the ways ol f dis cGa y’, th o’ut the n ur g o P whOn t ae whings (ar w ar d a en auo’ues none ouinnes it wa erves ond a pe Cir e. The po . Thi , ta ay s a smin n on we phur s Mints oas nof Gl egional flavours and w un y tohit y McGa lliga t h pon aeos n puoane ouinnesh f t th m in h gldal d f mo t s aint ke a b p lline f o asau n b balancing act ofil mo I mae car f the wautter n tihh me h re hearrt in t e ohis D oun at. I m e a men I d ttads phllayf affairs ve arse-racing o area, positionend m up br craic. Je puccat mers aooe t ns o oodt, of co car u onalled ruavtelyn ss eeenas t o chxturoa t a g ot p luding repro uct f li ur too brtief s t nd th f c s e wa crers p e oe i g pool in thisk y bpo g eyneare o acch mvera es. fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. LOCATION IS QUAY Charlotte Quay fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. f thorttuna le ine Dennil €6) is g fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. et in moin w P vw ohomg r e t zy e’s little to compare with the e. Amidwww.thehideout.ie an boro eatauaie wsitture t being up its own arse. Fr.om the reg-, tasting of oceanic ro holl thy p t in t wstutkh mutto i, I paatks a hegtal n te tdf The Hideout arr occ d t Fory to s partic-u Mruray s hlese a libra f te on D e on campu o t Df th Sqame n’ p ts g h t o f lisygtiudenliga d ate td e s e ob’s designl d up t, os ost p ou a d ohen mics f oe s serygtudeno ot o s a T k the b Sowe s o le f t oin lioursv , outurgeo t entn, a s-ys. urod the b g ol Dunlop cooks likociiny te en a t er m NEWaler gayeri us can gtsurstei.ot wh o s spapsi e y s mohit heg eye co Prow S o add prongrara .slciroahn, w at waeut v w k, hick e wout y McGar y’s is h m s sllug ing i aheridinph: (01) 537 5767 acavint ers a h o; ter h m rpwa n acwn toast is r pe moe f ries of globatl hi . En r s Ming a f l ot-sa fndfgpile, but the service of t F e a e o l tter m Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 ple ro srays w ryt eau t b h l half den s this Da o un erl (ald-bg ptoor s T olobe t lo a pgninteg i y ul l inside inside. Hasan osition d smack m g bet RESTAURANT at w tilg its namet broro ere y pe t in thile stie sltel htaev oRESTAURANT Considering its historhy of transience,erelcome to Ma La Land. Tfhi eason enough to come here. L s bt ttng of s lf Llmesq s wuil b siinlt ew nut crelam, re fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. ugs anu ar mate a, bvby ber garots are s n umo an k vo sak toast r n g ig’s t l b f Rt u e dadetvhai (€12.95) t pulled-a h hiular menu Mur d-ah utes sieere ar f int o-ga and a chvco o d cruw y foung manls cn o d in a crhicken) ar f A p it’s bles e od w th th esi t tho soed ried mullet in a sauce of its own making, Web eoxclusive content alsoh st.se o e ttt e cllan en. Thven to aughon oou r a d sh ingt MAKING A HAMES OF IT Mulligan & Haines MAKING A HAMES OF IT Mulligan & Haines Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global y survived my first Michaelmas t m and moodboag o curlminluudin From t acio s w S ost- suit otff the epic hdi ni horse-racin who knoutch mv stt tg’es.ui r ea GOOD SPORT The Pavilion Bar at Trinity College Dublin GOOD SPORT The Pavilion Bar at Trinity College Dublin SOUND OUT Stage 19 SOUND OUT Stage 19 i o our motto to Prov On this par Inst ad, there i Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global SADDLE SUP The Horseshoe Bar at The Shelbourne Hotel SADDLE SUP The Horseshoe Bar at The Shelbourne Hotel dae myriad pleasurg ren Mutionhn & Htoines i s, o re s o . Th lic h e of th e cad e h ldrd fr m out on tiin unqe s W gs a day and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. e all things (anticula misttak Squ iat se tu led like a fi t is a cer ain syceg acg cov g tblin,gn o s n t seemr pto Thenoraeovo doooasn Dstine erepe twy u DRINKING ON CLOUD EIGHT Humphrey’s parh ing from Hang Dai, although I understand that f our si d ahinkod o e 19, bsiderab u ticularly want anyo e you ku lin wbo paiew Huming t n o erw i lousm in astu anuev o a meae re a ev the ‘dr ssurance that it war f th were s gaoFalim F e c mened, I wt tr eh h e tt er mhno b,e desired. eye over the respec a le seleection oe o w ner dinnio wth ter t f hr a bnd th ’r Thh t hythings do l od cdin (€4.80) leave kly m GOOD SPORTr a ci t n rem in estle in The Saddle R m ftksr dinn voiuy y y sister The Hors H h That aumphr Ba’bout four bells, drink some strong cocevo ’o e diotc s hd thr ioinl haunt, GASTROGASTRO GASTROGASTRO words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan ring on te, therrace. ‘ ring on the t race. ‘ seats after smoking on the terrace. ‘You’re so seats after smoking on the terrace. ‘You’re so gio s y ta y to ae. ‘I wli h I was thess. The back gio s y ta y to ae. ‘I wli h I was thess. The back h pa py,’ he stops to say to me. ‘I wish I was that h pa py,’ he stops to say to me. ‘I wish I was that happy!’ It’s one of those exchanges, rarely occurhappy!’ It’s one of those exchanges, rarely occure you re so ter very quickly e you e sohter very quickly SADDLE SUP The Horseseshoe t o Stagag EIGHT nen DRINKING ON CLOUD EIGHT Humphrey’s SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association licensed p emi thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association York Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having operated as a bar since 1661, and the essentially untouched Victorian interior that you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Reilly in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention of its name elicits in many a knowing smile and an assurance that it’s one of the preeminent venues in town for dates that you don’t particularly want anyone you know stumbling across. The root of this association remains someSOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent yea nstead, th e ier s a sma d ain I we oc a hrminers a o h a ln tioe ts. I fl ad given marsh glar Df the sir trade-olefllf fvag ay cohe bht o n sn y flcoh lic, olive-io h y be b o btr g ta he desired. e s state o s a smatter fair tbs invefudinoug h in t p e a sin le es e t six. den f r induded their o thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association ofd) all time (Gooble it) and the dining r bhli h d co les t quitt if weh t it ihe plit t sh of P t yself wholly D ws how to enjo y tetleacent mutsic cours t, BIMM - The e didns’ p ori . A hiy litprk e eno t en er The food is a factor too r t gs a w lo tk ftiobd k f thas y comaps nt por s o feels as ifd it wa old tuo birdugs es a n in hh gstl hatat aps thav av umn. s. NNEW t oerh subs o fke a b line f r itelit eans p a r cra o I me Stre e f ar o t t-s , plum not exclusively so; there are options to add proteins including chicken, turkey, salmon, and beef, all sourced in Ireland. Behind the counter, staff are peeling and chopping butternut squash in the background while the rest of the team assemble heirloom tomato and avo salads (€9.95) and bowls of Rainbow Padthai (€12.95) to order. It’s the jackfruit tacos (€13.95) that win me Cúán Greene is a Chef and Founder of ÓMÓS. I ’s t r of tt mkefs di Jatc ut tcta Tlrd in a crcries bie is a prd wy br lf as a bt goas es crube wkh uit is s rt of lie micrh y m , none morlar diswn y Th n, c cara h s di h a mi fried cr de ond circ lula oarhie v sioa h t -oi A p avautr far td w et, b h I’zy, t ad it’,s j p solet whitae tore c nt r rfa pr t o ho bers coo hhodrer d p resh and perfect y o of Cashel bf the seaushrith ason. lue cheese otver a celery and apple ping succufat the c a ea b i toast is a pleasant thing to eat bld o y, b t fu eels a lit iven myself whollyacut wati h etacgh othter m s oteo, pl ge an ucld sverte eer garden. Its closg u ns mt les on divps f o tlur t saeanes p ayr s can gaanor a cigarettoies w a p Bs ok ce et ain om the plating to the shaeat view hd v of wine at this point. I cant’ht help but feel that g f cot po l s eso u e b h a oest. It is authentically itselfio without beings erm ad smf tthk b rade-ofetf f len t r t pe wae tth aoiletsropnd kort een y prl like Im at it hy McGarry’ Iss ho eitrth te mtse ou erwe o brief sumt p Enic. Ju e cont D Te sun an etwe to think that Fuscilets Msinlhs ilosle p b’e prosoximilee oner ec. y o Taitkin m ac fair t g bd wag b THE HOME OF side t surrepttthious R o sng ions. I fl er b. J kgrhorune w ole thf lik d f to-grhes which ha e been steam-wark dumpiniac ened, w It’ad The name of the r lleniny edt , shrr griat g are pee l g an t tt an o n addi mnn at win me. It oinli-oa bliuitt i. Thi e jith m ts fl n ed a k and systematically sets about schtupping the Featuring a dazzling array of things to dot t, h lid obp lbl g tha opera et d as a bar since 1661, and t iht seem-ean t seem plos g mo v o t t s in th entoaet;ed Rit, g i h-h Th treae m nlit pef the signn te oli Hump eyf tshis asho a acrosw r a f s.ehreason ’ st yl , it is one of th their tt es a s; fir s t io tia y untouc eh d Victorian interio old two birdug Dr e se Rh g Tlit t af t e sig n trn a uxi a y s n ylisthe ro of what it i ae Civesiy oa see there was installed by Thomas F O Rei y et t a oe Shm olhbt ha e beh n h osr te esseny inku- t-lis-aps thaourne ah prime re f those pung e ll in a bar that knows how to makne them bef, thre aerm lif ur e Retg T’s larader ir hoor de f thk dr e oldes abt blismyt s; H” of The Ra o y cen re r it seemean t seem Wet tao fortre h-h Thd ts no ticularl s The S yone you kn my c oen glinde ne had bhe doov. Were cotnd t paYor rk Street’y want an n is a pub o ow sf not my cohroice, w S e fumpice d ab t oovo reeaen inat te h o j s n t ros uc y a e o S t er o o s mi arr e 19 and an assurance that it’s one of the preemi-’ wa pen e 19 t venues in town for dates t aI mhI m t admi into a mer tbiot of op a ini gle other. Si t t ereso r an ug s o ha f a my otini ge oh b S DRINKINT OUG St ON CLOUD OUND York Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having operated as a bar since 1661, and the essentially untouched Victorian interior that you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Reilly in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention of its name elicits in many a knowing smile and an assurance that it’s one of the preeminent venues in town for dates that you don’t particularly want anyone you know stumbling across. The root of this association remains somee roorey sses in t e city cen rt e hain g York Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having opera et d as a bar since 1661, and the essentia y untouc eh d Victorian interior t ah t you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Rei yll in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention ll un SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader of its name elicits in many a knowing smileder i Rane evious guise a um e il s imm e us hn’tt admiain d depicb he ane way oach l ther. Siier thd r th a s s s one’s eyle is imm e s quickly m no thin h tminlalr t you doandpt t er ctiner to te , otr ely dra y a ac e c under i Rane evious guise a em a i clos v ones ey us han pa o a mealictioe ot t t h b , w ext dode ne h b he door their taob ablism less vr un er b ktails rm tefeir rf te doo tah et of ents aump reehe ci y cen rd thr v s s leme-owards silli m S ets Dao a. Ade r ertines a “d aer - andal r. Wster be ties temen ntas in toeir rkthiugh the lens r that you the r s, on ey Sone mtanoreuv, te. In aheir oe p caat. Both spacious w n hour bef gs mi hing e old two birdugo ties; thwtn q t h lic hv o uses a e essheo ayg a simi l he Sh sld-w urot refe aae n mo h aore e bllinein e essen d like a f t i pg mom as moe exteruxifr façy serff thade remain war s a cer ant. Snneg-esraenererms o le in Th h’ove teac f th e cotniah o jubs e led like a fs sdi cttin o ta o bn th thscussreem o of wh pttmt ias no rader ik of its name elicits in many a kn w e s n ane evious guiiy in ty ta aesin le w, b h ’ warminer un lo Rt br enh n s tr ssem agevey’fle whroen Iink own for dates tuaI must admi’d ty Fugm t e ou mint a r tb k wam , bgs mii lin i en for pm troim eant ty dracin th t 20 phu d abad br t” of The Rd t rader f d dirr wols a “ y mo e potly int inted deplize tu in , thsiderabls on uc s sarsr-iner examShm “bples oen invi. Wtg Te min fa e popsl On ap ideac wo umpe rey’s, I ki el n lim entra proa. Thrg St g d a em age, tow From tg time – a fache de From tg time – a fache de On ap ideac woe perennial r d-hairh b tlin b bly a bad rance way aboumpe rey’s, I ki elv y sew it wa nce way. As we proa. Thrg Staur way t n lim ent s probab. As wly a bad review Hut thhr lat review Hut thhr lat v y sew it was pro ag businesse ettug nowling b sines abo p ace to loedian wa e ven sa n tyt hag par icu g d intteesloseg a toue assume ation was quickly m p veo s i ea’ackshta ay of o,ur situli B t t e e hinked o e 19, bhroer kd se rsnt ty of our situts prlcaagsh pub s e e; H bl hr, t s i ea’aclitkshta agesiest hinked oge 19, bhroer kd s th b ep-co suome s-e ual a irtaur way t ettuge uts n thild of th ts prlcaagsh pub s e e; H ade app ra ent as w lgicue venture ge,siest d ext do with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from ea y d n o gere wa n was m ongs milling n was m ongs milling ade to ade to e atio v , otr ely dra y ano thinr h tminalrenlyytured p ace to lo diahe ven sa n tyt h g par with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from e pertennial rsed-hair nuts n thild of th cen ss Thble Te y’hr hep-co some e ual attir d ass The Te y’ cen s umpgiveohe rsn hm h’ Wients arsile R m ftkr dinn r ft r woiutind , uet to fore loer be die a oo p ferfd coc efit;h the lens te not ev s asso aci lengths t Wainl bts priytgua ub se wss Thoaahretly’s ieolitnint y inlto Son Augus Wa k lg o t ol ae d to h ae te; Hv arp o difeurgfli Beo tecg reyahutwa-ys. n b The name is a nod to my fa. Be Shtbly Bgre I aat olth of oaur locaen mio Square to ir dinn , belt. I mts gle nkhp to to fet terd cei n r sepud sllod aint thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association Chinese or no I m li t admiub r cthinaro a meg a singf a mamr th er s se okerlifsry s er as s nosf o s tudenao slo c ti e ro h f thi ybody lo ins somhi g ok on Christmas Evpues th ta of t ts e p ace to loet the Hlry dra e oo t e ceir r it is ab tion remah o fbtkhilianmevious guip d thumoora. At ly-Se rt t t of trhun tail m the bl I w s od m te insig t into t er odrt r af th s etu tail menu cla ouwve anf t Shleshyts oh se hr ude hy r e I a uir r fahr rtaoml must didn’t hstle dipao p in ot t eguyt it ily hae ass ea ta a te a libees Th n qe m sidera and i , th o’uin e nale oure o oytcekath a q lit g bposen t e p saay poure s n y ji t a mit iat a mieshmaf the sig inh e o be desir d r d ken abo. Wierth i t tds sbue of Jo lic t t d a p f G e . Th air aare a mef Jater be dis asu s wugh the lensedly m weoiceden ne had bttken ino r un h ur b o ims. Uet te Bhiottf coy rude h q o w ur lol . I ha he a soft spot fuur or this place.ck tua e f t s o li w ans hp ter Waot tanos tis nygthan gts.e o ers pnehe - lent t ves to worf Jh adjny treoo’erte ea llegd tt aee,IMM - Th out t of ta leure oeemtoyvcean D d bo k waf m f affairs an it was ima d ce ogined by Philip K. Dick.tg t ien It dlit -.d d ef c ssiome chrho puf li hile high-ceilin en ageemeah owa e a men amn ttt wad th tf ca t odins ne s o e pg a little sifof Pinh hi erins acer w ue s a lim ers ab tside odf li hir at abrout 20 ps oe revl estatytge g lse. e s as ers ado r btrarinier gaudents w o fat – t e t o diffu , bt ening bg rldations e osh whi t wae st itth th eng s ers (€4.80) lejavypwlsioly t nle sg a liat corloy-Sehe s ge – ev aurole diSer tug o uherle wk, as t v re t moo in Durade-o f foaeralebd ru o c a sgner a se h n ane breinihinv, i.so randin u tioe w u e t a e oh whi k y bindinthi a it mi be wiilisiohtte ea lleghin s t lo les on dinet oi f onlin thur t er mh o b . Th STEP INSIDE LOCATION IS QUAY Charlotte Quay e g c l hickere ur ea erks like popping a pacifier in a baby’s ou med in I d av y londould want to feed to somebody who loves omat u od ae wou it we ld-be Dennig y prdavers se meng iy to tf h l Book Now! l €6) is g lugg au.et out pun eropping blBook Nocw!h h in th puraue nated p en, deli he bd vietros (€9.95) a e €28, w h squaso ftor a ciga-rn LOCATION IS QUAY Charlotte Quay kh ad whi erut bre micrhwick m s among pr wn toast paupers cs h pormed. Featuring a dazzling arrans auks ty oasf things to do,uce (addin t ur ur s a cer hin slickt tesg-es bliuhs see ver seugl haunsin ” t t hin slickninkatkblishfd td cockhif yt s; Hlliaim St oo h o b” t t ounhr ’ets Daoota. Atdver ose o o ors to t ese s o es e t o e outch m t So b’ pt.n he ioti toeeir snugs, braeh b er t g coinerehgnsd hiceke I y n sig agre a etf Gnn bnd thg ar u onaled rungo, t he min er mond a u ld stlt h l Were 19. This ag nmle tg ttd ay at ent t t a’dl wndd the be hi e I rer ga w un ute e fhf wn anberepureg w the neck. A dimine e’s deli .g- .ookl s pn addi ouldn’at fuly back on Parnell Square, not rea, p and Sourdough Tn lf doeen twwn at a r e courses a insidere €28, w s ca ouhere fet oph: (01) 537 5767tss er sa ing a frao 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767ng hd o elentless r l (a ad wn cr s T e pd salt-bink de Joshua Trere. (It describes itself als a brasserie, no A SITE FOR GLAD EYESra , t s anl of my of al s un et t cagume rea e feooe d sefinementld chats. STEP INSIDE The Hideout n in D bevo hve dSt t eresgt uginh se ioer h August t he it.pen, wearae per e f Th em s one omin re nne’ l h ates a tu in Dh b revo vet ld stb c s nic no So be it.g age 19’cs ne owing smi taw-s a o umia enty t atblle soouruaviny op w lo e p aeer gare t ili o w t you donl ou r in a ott th inh oance tb e ga ll o w stum lin ld s a d dephr ht of o ir by fure tm didn e na d like a froittin o te olicak lin thg pa o g y e lobby in o tbo ot. Sp py oini gertms oor. Siancesmendidnio’ nado ide ehin ind our waest a io fah ep-co sof Guinn h didn’t quit t (€4.80) le n Fg a lilig a lit t colomis tly my of our si tOn apre p aur e pery S den’s ldenthwao fami in etra s-rawo shotud a e in oy td I daasrh aertfd tthe dohe to nys t ppue osedly er g t y up to t t S De b ble 19. Thitid do my thinan an r y u aboumero tpe rinat vohoot entith a tuufling b sineshee afforded the reputation as a hub for c an ado- e ev th thrup tiee this timet wagn rer tine operations in town. The mere men t quit r bkl y likdepy lil inkdens, by th wirh a q li y om t pu hinoen Ili g and cdinklcaagsh p b sve e; H – pe v p k ae rea’hkshtk dr m o e a yum eo pld e en bg e p emig a t n ace tol ertato loho, oo c, ta legn d in ter mont f rlin w d tye iah m t dia u t r i e n ein e o r s s dio f uict m ade ahin ’t heeme pu enu c a. W ta estle in The Saddle Rg cm ftar dinnrtoes yon ad sh ueset.nat S r aos n h bte tinnara Thes a b is hRESTAURANTf td sme t un g uce utive cuplet of potato soup u ernvuot sado sauob’s desig . Bac ene h, w. En roer, s a asximity to the inere I remain for tro e menu lin b mc acos (€13.95) thnado sh in thnuraillet kng iit out aiuce prune abd a y t et h n (€3), wurithucumber, cra ruieahhe w ld-b erppves of other toasts. It is a prawn toast prince d cf ts d blobs of aennil €6) its g perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature go essen a y a co a o o der and ste from o a roderring (w n thin gg), anps on wo a o o perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature over. Jackfruit is sort of like an ugly mango and it’s blessed with the ability to soak up flavours and retain moisture. The tacos are served with Murray’s delicious cashew nut cream, red wine vinegar pickled onions and avocado tucked into soft white tortillas. Thanks to the vision of interior decorator Jill You can sign up to the weekly newsletter in which Cúán explores the evolving story of food. omos.co egar p esth their lovenions aith tg rooon (€3), wiendition, br st buatiuce pr fait (€7.50) w tb ientder, o t goa rickleod o er ecny of t o-gle sreenas and cir rrahado tucn.e thect r , spr o nwn pig’s t wtorti a cksd do n tfound with the heft of f iomented black beans. a eauoilisture a e micr io eens aspef a , te re t pae jac a os acos (€13.95) thn es itsel ohifonounced Fest, no . J e it do . There atlr k se the Sice serve f smesq s wli y ta note-perfl tter ws o s co bl a Th, ee tacos a e servve ea en a vaown an with mui h ic e f at des pef in mine crab meat an u ar muiet, biliby barlrago emt . It lohks reestaur h u. Th ub is h ugh I , th der t kn acdert uran s ca h lio. (Ippn timoots arhuanese kitchen is a m our gulli Featuring a dazzling array of things tao doh,f stie fll wa ftla. Tents in t e c oco auys y l imm di te insige t int id roouses a er-wo os a b th ck an Fo t een a drfired tl es ad-peMeir sn h e i y’oo doooas eptraot Stab. Awo su pnea. Th g Se tae 19, bettug , t Fh m tg totboment g c y cOn a n h ext douden y t eto e m ep-co soio at n their t a le in Thh adjum hrhi be Tle er b m So b oro A idel a. Thrg t aur war e ve to jny more popuea in earaahp ene ts w g T’s bld gr ft ty o a t to Apn h s se teeen in i. W aaro os d dirt entnnce p w h p’g t ” oll of the b t s o ft d shmlcaus s; Httiresd a ate wgioluy-Seraenhte eds a “er - ainenhy t e te Saddle Rhhim f r dinnsnd , BIMM - Tha her lme Diol in thaylor r ugg a ectlt out den. I t ysetd cucum dfu,l of y good time, but the Hang Dai Sesame Prawn a oast is throhe to f tahere e e options t ankinessximit 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767t complemenrse t o y t fd p line ice cr am stays t away te s ohn kad f e mink ar d t en ir, atet o t ed o thut 6p mar uerv ay – peaen afe minfdur befheir oe b s, on e two pu ae b m gunfde, carrtiinlwl n slly identied re t ortetwn sleinlyg l oac wor et, sagenaatl red-huglenow g Tav t g betbuinnes leder its p e cmi ab d a h t ies, mo h em erst NEW lI’m told that there’l snt kette bn a douc hiwo a rg bauraen t e t t s s inrt o. Hat on ug nam aysseem wn at a repur 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 be Web exclusive c.onho t tent also.xample in the mullet dish, n the - o opping b tarttarvoc qa u s uce l ed unt lown as The www.thehideout.ie f f of al s untpretenorries, even tono mad re ke foo ke a ap i lolts oeenas a lf doornm thlar dis. Ric g. o e aein sande t h charred c intent. I’m a big fan ofs a statement ofity man n. Fbledcvu e regoon, e pen to an ots ao o’tt rened w p in ledios Th s sa ew nurt cream, re d salt-baked ac erel (aub is hotioe to a res a r g ubout them. d cir h a miks o all the playfulness 49 Sotuth William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 hat €e Kir ra v po Tofu, that staple of et a mouth. Another reason to shut TFU is a steak,t view ticks of at you unconditionallyl e cotil t arred cfor t eciaont-sea . H s pl or tioon, an ac enedhile sith cacder , s umber u u e D ut ss Taylors s ugg an wy! I p u i h m ’t rts.h tic s pualleks teese a er.e orickh asnd p nf ig’s tr e y oif k nio e D p th on (€3), witld haoe b ll na ragt cotu. It lovks rereny ul f neanuW ittao be ‘ it (€7.50) w h s l d n h sauce and bi vaerfiy fron s cover corner crevasses from their ots; eac ers withl i a er. an oar hpeisior A peanuWe caer par s poised a t eleadtlasstes like tn e c ase of whayt iss time for some comfort and spices mix so faun ree prin would be exp uh could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved Poere may b s bo llenumps to iron out, as es fys of a new pintialley a colm ter serv t a chef tells me that he’s not quite happy with it Thké, pro eine some bnd p g overh ao balleason enough for me. It’s back on business, b t I doler’t experien ld. Itce an’y on mey vThtif w uff a e fleiendld in th noy days o shades; dratping s w s ats h and that’ ac leafy frond ected in the early da rom their pots; even t e cutn y is r e go uoa nd it e r ecte y ant e ea uccu y Christtmas cooks. s r nd reva es t e ‘ mmpher’ After the jo , it’ votured b ice cd b mb o light h to yllden, flsic bufforwarxturn the ustar n to a Japanese dish that was itself appropriated aneanut cead whiles d goour door s anaeen.o s cover corner crevass now and I will be back for it. Venison chilli is a s very b auisit. os deeply involving bowlful, profoundly savoury e slt, ald bre expvates t e a mospwere oh ledgable, gf what iesvf a n iwing o busind titips olls, b h t L’Estrange of L’Estrange Design, Nutbutter is poised and ready to be ‘grammed. It’s millennial pink meets palm tree print and bamboo light shades; draping succulents hang overhead while leafy fronds cover corner crevasses from their pots; even the cutlery is rose gold. It’s very beautiful, and it elevates the atmosphere of what is essentially a counter service canteen. Poké, proteins bowls and peanut cacao balls Tho tver-ortre f ien y a d pteeanuledgableva s would be expected in the early days of a new in. W from over-ordering (we wanted to try every- h e staff are friendly and knowledgable, giving could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved resoaod tips on what to o, watch thnd ste rain hit Grand in. We grab a drink at the bar connected to the ood tid ths, b e r h t t s a ple n gt urant after dinnerrder a busines Cana ing. Even in pd v sta would be o an v w o urb n v w Q cen Mrup w Montepu cus sy u Th e grab a drink at the bar connected to t e thing), and the room is a pleasant space to be ce any on my v eering us away veranda an ooir weat ert th , its sar cotinnll a beauvenres a ie t after dinn, whictch the rain hit Gss odf ected t t o t uifhel, M Canan ep ock, and think ab d a ho (€8.75) anout how lo c M ntp w ait no (€8.75) and a h memo in ade hibis-e ing. Even in poor weather, it’s still a beautiful, us syoruepulcih sparkling water dr k called th ueus sy edbh (€5), coith sparklines t ter drink called the urban view. Our bill, which includes a glass of Qaren Medbh (€5), comes to a t tt n succee r p wetat view, a talented chef, exper e enced staff leading the charg g succeed: a great v whielogicalenterd chef, exptinig off enced staff leading t s sp arge a ond ah slr ad g out. the beaten track. Thihe chot is w rt n aeeekiny loyal fanbase. All they need is for Dubliners to get over the psyc oh logical barrier of eating off the beaten track. This spot is worth seeking out. succeed: a great view, a talented chef, experienced staff leading the charge and an already loyal fanbase. All they need is for Dubliners to get over the psychological barrier of eating off the beaten track. This spot is worth seeking out. Queen Medbh (€5), comes t e antal of €90.75.y loyaCha lo e. All thas e erythinor D bdlino s to et over the psyc o , a t l ba rier of ea er - l fa bnr atste Quay hey nveed is fg it ne d: a gtte Quay has everything it needs toi o a tod an alread ue s ter tte Quay has everythin o a Chuelo lciano (€8.75) and a h g i l of €90.75.eeds toade hibisCharlori h sparkling water drink called thmg wao a total of €90.75. omem au iean. Our bill, which incloudes a glass o - veranda and vista would be on a sunny evening. Even in poor weather, it’s still a beautiful, t l Dlci m ve y this bfis r l Dock, and think abo tt how love y t-his veran a a ock, and think about how lovely this C fanoam over-ordering (we wanued to try evlery g), and thista wous a pe osant space t in. We grab a drink a he b ’ n a sunny e urb t uran . Our bill er, wah includes a glaran emlade hi res at urant after dinner, watch the rain hit Grand thind l Dd v e room ild blea n a sunn o beny eve - could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved es n wunt tnt experien teen.er n my v way P ké fe s, pf a eins bodll e wan w o try e, g vyut I do ’er serrvice cance any o ut I don’t expom i rder a d steering uo bes away w s a d knod t act c ao b leril ing erienasant space t isit. h d k rlAVENUE OF DUNVILLE DELIGHTS ing u is asit. Ranelagh is food-rocking right now, with the arrival of two great new culinary outlets on Dunville Avenue. Paul Rooney’s new veg-ture Glas Deli opened its doors just before Easter, bringing with it an incredible array of vegan and vegetarian dishes to enjoy at home, alongside a terrific selection of artisanal produce from some outstanding Irish suppliers. @glas_deli Nutbutter Forbes Street Grand Canal Dock Dublin 2 www.nutbutter.ie Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490 Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490 Meanwhile, Brother Hubbard marked their ninth birthday by announcing that the latest addition to their culinary band would also be situated on Dunville Avenue. Located just across the road from the Village Butcher, their new enterprise looks set to add a tantalising taste of Eastern promise to the Dublin 6 suburb, with a feast of delicious menus and flavours inspired by cooks such as Yotam Ottolenghi and Sabrina Ghayour. brotherhubbard.ie Nutbutter Forbes Street Grand Canal Dock Dublin 2 www.nutbutter.ie Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com caramel, caramelised banana and a chocolate mousse is really well balanced. It could have been far too heavy or far too sweet, but instead it’s just on the right side of decadently delicious. A charred peach and fig dessert with amaretto and vanilla ice cream (€8.50) is lovely, but feels a little too prematurely wintery, as the fruit has been poached in what tastes like the classic booze and spices mix so favoured by Christmas cooks. There may be some bumps to iron out, as Mr Stevens is currently indisposed. caramel, caramelised banana and a chocolate mousse is really well balanced. It could have been far too heavy or far too sweet, but instead it’s just on the right side of decadently delicious. A charred peach and fig dessert with amaretto and vanilla ice cream (€8.50) is lovely, but feels a little too prematurely wintery, as the fruit has been poached in what tastes like the classic booze and spices mix so favoured by Christmas cooks. There may be some bumps to iron out, as tt Thets palm tr cial (€15 extra per per to connections. Ts on t butt n’t resi it (€7.50) with s lted k derloin f llet (aka the c ateaub it h d), t p octopus dish has clean ozone tang but also the with os range Design, Nutbuttery beaenped Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1d berief led until k yi h s bst ys idl s ,up-int a repurNEW y, salmna o for a cigarette brea g r t lonk mnea eg waerle a d bloabs of s , rft g arutive blue cheese how y Featuring a dazzlining array of things tao do, ou feel by exhib a in f g styThe eh n leme to distance one frtom theirt e p raein f dd salt-baaked ant may not be pron tn saline with just a sug kestion of eweetness y), b board special (€15 extra per person and it’s worth it). We get plates of slowly braised short rib and then a board of pink slices of the tenderloin fillet (aka the chateaubriand), topped with onion rings and golden, fluffy chips on the r p es led o er ecny otl Tf tain with a dish of lamb neck in chilli bean n t voce seaso eentdere e en a variut squash but that heat never pf tt meat encasellio W i y braltl or Ji ye p a e esign, N tb n.ado tuctter is b o t e ve p inc just a sugbestion of sting len mtes of sloh y braio and shor gramme t. I ’tbria etlenni rl co son ai d it’s serlt w n to the (complementary) salad of smashed Web exbclusive caontent also.ld oy f sioood a d service aasseed fo trd as a lifees y have gone through ar a restricti.ve . uiett ib in I’m a fan ofa cooked oally acingly spicy and proe ea en a variater n e cple aenad blobs of s far imes bi y brll ofhihis is top drawer stuff. A mousse malrett mesan fondue on sourdough hd ts mind shaaing ra us. A e t . Sublime. Oyster astes board special (€15 extra per person and it’s worth it). We get plates of slowly braised short rib and then a board of pink slices of the tenderloin fillet (aka the chateaubriand), topped with onion rings and golden, fluffy chips on the cucumbers for palate-clemenc ut can t hold uo.oze and e that comes from sousNutbutter Forbes Street Grand Canal Dock Dublin 2 www.nutbutter.ie y. I can’t think of Rody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com Rody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd Locks 1 Windsor Terrace 1 Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8 01-4163655 locksrestaurant.ie Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com d a the dishesngo andcu e so than a dish of lightly Web exclusive cnonttent also. um sauce (adding v ffour and a lot of er i u) a rience of cold briny binalvaie h feel to many of n vocgts attsohkdd intinkled an fêted with shalavings of frozen buttermilk. Ms n times bco d wore sandwich was in Canada over 8 years ago. I was cooking in Toronto with my friend Harry Colley who is now the nut butter epicure of Ireland. We were invited as part of an Irish congregation to cook “Irish food”. I don’t quite recall what we made, but it probably involved a dust of bacon on a crisp of cabbage or something extremely innovative like that. What struck me about Toronto was the cultural diversity of the city. The 250 different ethnicities and over 170 languages spoken daily were reflected quite literally on the streets. Each footpath we strolled down was awaft with enticing aromas from eateries which awakened the senses. I remember wandering into a small sandwich shop on Dundas Street, following a constant revolving line of hungry customers who eagerly awaited for, what was to be, the perfect lunch. As we approached the counter, four Vietnamese ladies were skilfully operating a production line that started with what looked like a puffedup crispy French baguette. Each baguette was sliced open, its pillowy centre slathered in fresh liver paté and topped with thin slices of aromatic Vietnamese pork. Protruding from the sandwich was julienned carrot, thinly sliced pickled daikon and coriander (with stems ’n all), finished with fiery slivers of fresh chilli. A great sandwich expertly executed for a fiercely loyal clientele. It was everything I searched for in a gastronomic experience. When France obtained control over Vietnam in the 19th ar d y’s is hf tatur inpb res, t ae Hhtul h e bar pr es of En lis o litoua s d o arning. Th, ah Mul ts.a seemees mi b lenquace. Wiin h ieruro . En r b e id wa THE HOME OF t we l a ru oouuna e y e to g a y rmth aeqth of our local m st t wati h eo rts nakhg oe P vie a e yar, oio p BIMM - Thhi, B s t ed pine t f Jter aacenh ute t ah t tbs w STEP INSIDE OR GLAD E icles, b t it prov obepperoa ron Mulligan and Haines, the otherwise unnamed English student who stays with Mulligan, this Dame Street bar occupies what was once Sweeney’s Mongrel, what was once Le Cirk, ugust tl o Aa ortnimerraroas ooptioe ery r ln B in um pp do rd i didnure nd He of Goyceat. ting jams, per o s ot wh l b y Bo ot o idi e s le high-ceilin u ic. Ju s howef the Bv agnrsarcningw logk ftirat cn g ims. U. A in udenlliot alr u li nmerlin ww’es ilel Nt et ter Wtateolmin iahout 20 p t six. Sc g i h ophhd m h od aif coingyat rwqluirThar amlen r s i’ ern he lobby into ter elc ses waorminee naoure oy inoyceap a e w s, per oren be forg v et ab e om y a e t didnt was woas w ane er ay in there othind a cthum ut t ws u of ts mttles on divn De vesino a , buat f Is hebo fosd sh e olf Jt hn aw-sp w I g anh ge lobbahe co tt tet o rg j ehes. Thl. Th h asp at w eoy w I’m told that there’s no pickle brine for my douchey martini but the Negroni that replaces it works like popping a pacifier in a baby’s mouth. Another reason to shut TFU is a steak tartare that comes atop diminutive blue cheese sandwiches which have been steam-warmed. It’s a statement of intent. I’m a big fan of oysters, there’s little to compare with the experience of cold briny bivalves, tasting of oceanic sex, slipping and sliding down your gulliver. I’m a fan of cooked oysters too. Wiley’s Nashville hot oysters (a riff on the furiously hot fried chicken) are reason enough to come here. They are momentarily deep fried before being replaced in their shells with a sauce offering just a suggestion of sting. Sublime. Oyster mushrooms, parmesan fondue on sourdough toast is a pleasant thing to eat but can’t hold a candle to the previous delights. The dish I’d most looked forward to – pork hock, pickles, hot mustard, steamed buns is not on tonight, chef tells me that he’s not quite happy with it and that’s reason enough for me. It’s back on now and I will be back for it. Venison chilli is a deeply involving bowlful, profoundly savoury ay, toheverages. as f thleansiou ce L urposk, e onset o as ooll in eresume osh we e b’ongrey tt t e p ay bo hind a cage – lierin usur minsios w ust a miashmf oh of P f t oy’ tet t e na ure ot. os a hf J n sig h at wapileeice ce s e S otf rele siet boeehind ceiling a d slops oy ce en oar im hc untfnqtrr t e wapt pr se I anuir f th t ts, nen ou n De an fa l d l mint o s ays w t y! I plo o I make a bee,line for itlets -ur ty and eA SITE FOR GLAD EYES YES t e necessa sy sus l anrmin ca n et t lg rn s noe t oh e aid-e tle high-ceilin oar lin w a y ucts, nd tenl of ty thropepat telen y pr euapeosem he pu ’s mtan es a poure lesalminl sio imm di g s tentwy in tidsstouses ar e esseres y th er oee a ag wa g o ccant use inll bo t h lic h o reurs te ooers a o rle w erpayin d pt tador ae bt y liker ga eshs, ienougoomr s waeys t eh s ace s se ro e p af t inre thdep t. Spe s m r a erv y o etinersmenedidn’hts o of Guinndens, b h wo faace f ivemily mem et o erd p po u (€4.80) leshme b h oft ld e en b o it. I m k urin e b e 19. Thi’ s sp s, onot t aavse mbanoeuv Augu b un an e a tvtc g tle wa r at ropos oroeenoay ptrtl litke I tm er eoutStoe e 19’chepeuminrporam irat cramv o m . Iel li p rd rs inccoa co t. Ble Sh soe ovug cournn tn he gai ur beef u e f , b h. Kete wa gucd do mio hinbliehmend era o Ap r lneelas s indepp den o h voarn’ugs bld gonin tbuinn he pa everabg’ W int k uh adg o t of theadentae wwaoumi erenoy memwers dinnf rd wat hingTHE HOME OF ld unite t urrhr ld cosy. In ktini. Ray C ah thtree of co voinld te wa oetephe doroducmao -paign mor siel ld g nqco to’t acnererursne ah pettrime reepoyete being lsste th imbhbli hm ts aed ceilind do my tertpioupd ae i e yv sister inurf th e ess uovinnhd s hterd depictio lit, a s m . In th b r o htl immd oies; t tn gaunat metf thrie signn ah Dk-ier, t old tuso b dncer wto tsin e so p r than ore ae inagsoinufg inet ova sir ug en mics fa y oe wa y c ps o a cob cer e tghps thy Bu d t t o e essenesap n s en, wedi p o he dot h. Wiaa e be ss uires yl es o ad eir te and ma s; H tblp d t amurse ci q er of ooau tnrsehing ejl music. siv s. U m s o he ite lo h e ts in thhilin,kbeir a et of tht wge - use a libf wloslaer to t t mumen s, p a “bd al” of Thur, it r un olues uourite TV sholerbine Rag Tesm de efelctos a h intootio re randin y’s, fotr bm de lr wa yt d ae Be ttr tes . The spa htunism in e rd o arne R g Trader i a t the s renoiinrount graeets Daoota. Adver - any. Ido peate-d , so th l n kt es ao perteob, bcetthil h h t, t inonf G o mis na t t s no den ont h asrt tfueir rkefinit;dowaun - n d siginl” thtatbb t ser ies, m g tts gteinlliam St oo g a t td thrhihin y ca, ky cen lcoho slic, oli elesrvd aumlf coinegh, it r n mea d se reptinl s a “ y ueir snugs, b l nlina thns ar lo hopild h wpos puyceaaotinng jnta s, perr plrof the bf their a ovuaeer ae cotn h o jh ou fe minin faref y ay in co rao ret es e o e waort dr louxi a- s ae t s h t en mics f b erteuvreir co eoraesy otbapacious w iglth oe t oald g ee wae i sigat tlt ineto t e wh s eme of rcg t ie s rsr tarm ac h aind ky t s. I fwo s wt ies, mle any o Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! m, w oa seemed a d, i Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! kcyot o W inp whi ts g. om se wass, patlsic coy-SThe Pyr r ‘n C ucep y kad s acuss se tt iegularl e o oreryt drir dd a purpme nn & Httin’es ille dil Neven mics f e s thir i eran gg m ipt h nd tuden concer tt eswaays manalooceresi ervaansioe iootg rf coingurr itiom de ll o s no. The p rade-od menaled ru om, w user Ws k ast mte n ing ing uir tsis innls. Uudin d alepbrlo uct r b as ers h or ra oards insce.ople rhr t eso um k anan of rel weati oe hin p Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! beas ers’ pm ra.rio mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s e pless soitt in, weha llace f r day-drinking s acteubll’s designs ed perio f the vtcy com ac ts, nean signaump B kd ohia I’m told that there’s no pickle brine for my douchey martini but the Negroni that replaces it works like popping a pacifier in a baby’s mouth. Another reason to shut TFU is a steak tartare that comes atop diminutive blue cheese sandwiches which have been steam-warmed. It’s a statement of intent. I’m a big fan of oysters, there’s little to compare with the experience of cold briny bivalves, tasting of oceanic sex, slipping and sliding down your gulliver. I’m a fan of cooked oysters too. Wiley’s Nashville hot oysters (a riff on the furiously hot fried chicken) are reason enough to come here. They are momentarily deep fried before being replaced in their shells with a sauce offering just a suggestion of sting. Sublime. Oyster mushrooms, parmesan fondue on sourdough toast is a pleasant thing to eat but can’t hold a candle to the previous delights. The dish I’d most looked forward to – pork hock, pickles, hot mustard, steamed buns is not on tonight, chef tells me that he’s not quite happy with it and that’s reason enough for me. It’s back on now and I will be back for it. Venison chilli is a deeply involving bowlful, profoundly savoury nk m helin star pendant hea A SITE FOR GLAD EYEinS ides err s invited. Almost rigid at first with sesamelts close pcise eveningenin . s p ayimte to a resntaa o h an tb rf Jdto t, otr even s y a on tn cam uicue venture sde WE’RE LOnVING… h o ttog b en a des” C oioh ts, talder thp er (a pppdeoe had bhennio htn h rader f er urbmesrlsunder i R S s spf thceno e aesy’s, f wevr, tthe rummagelsiest oice r nacbo “pbpenvter to t ts w ug o diffn thild osf thd tionh l ori . A hintuden e R er o wt rmi g re eraa -s el hos imme – a facvh ay ag ee w t a enev s wte v lyl a ga atoreth thbe dossolnk f eat c m o munile esa blishm t en y a goarhrere ih the do r a ne wtside ot a n wae c tine 19’cer to tlurtte aor a s t was pame th ba essaeinsheilen ier alliam S ete w s Daky centr eeroiu d a , n ’ sd s sheals immee s qn Dublin thh t, B ugos thlhte len i . A hing Ste doll of the btd t h blin fao t lo ara -p w iout Wts aacen as tuming t ey w er k o s a cerl b” t ty hhin s s ah s in tar prrefvt;es a t, in ra . The Horut tesblishfed corckthaiences l egutar hhosmenes t drin hinrg inar on y . Th t otnn oing jkintg in tleir com ipit h n waacenh ue discpp raft m l ay ev erwbhnytussee bhhptminaray g me lo g-esmacer okl o oves at d g e co d-h ’irs bld gefnin h kler be on ca vumms w t l low-slts o th-h The R bililtace f r d. Iy-drlo nn auxifurfar y spose. The y j ties; the t t o a ese vertibmethine sesl g k uinnat.s, ilt – tawing in tuoams o g mo y tg-es an Du m tra uinn ena ot ent r d y-drin w g f. The es.lko raats, nehs, bo h with a q lit o aray cewa-ys.ir etummer light hl bhh oom, ween aa seemeos s n sltly, ise mmin n im m , be t fe pll a gaps lg geo t rays tleen tes e n qg Trader i ov d a ph li raceentd ay idenei wt hua y osat co a n t inkl t n gth h ote s ueset.nat t hite ear d seloustlav’, at e o mts oo a phh fos ace folerve y-drrmkos . The af fuess on eroude hpad k ns. I f n naat this w g b d o do se.opnco cers neu r tue s v g ts.u D -ur henealt t- a ld gf serious t u er e ony hutside o e we gamfld ev monage –d tle r h the do lt m ld lir aant drin ing ineir cockasur halio p b re i t ane Hhf oeshoe bar prov um en f r e a libro s nros o c a gnam ou kt o ur t tuampuen I t l mnts s v etbao ha, i, peoam de ning rceyacewa ryt ty h s, it s wose unnova es a er t uming tDublin’s Beseitst B.Y.O.B pool hall.vd unhd a couh ” wg ps spk o eo stt re thapp t. I piceimuese tloy ly col the berr e rh t poom, with p o f tahore o g g e rsg rs nt Stthelan is a maneeiceddn ’ There i oo dooasn rra n d old he , s le tgebbn signh aurtf nd oe l hsge, thub n ciomle wief s a an ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the ucom illliy iden i d dirreir ohwrtde ttlies-ov ve heen a o et oe mosded thopaiuta enlytht o a , jipurader fefsf P olilu te po Sjt- sicouth uttertDublin’s Bev’st B.Y.O.B pool hall. be i n a aink in ances JAMESON 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 y work. eoeet.THE HOME OFhe m Unfts. A be lookoing forward to an encore., it s ro nls oes yoy BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM yceal ofu lin,inld wA SITE F ro aomeda, decidedlery fit f r po karpur .tind i ll n room ptucn o t The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 mulliganandhaines.ies gnliarg f. Shpwao, b cth coekkt waert ter ing U ha sying foptrhrr t d p aths sldn’niet want t uce18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 The Horseshoe Bar at Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. JAMESONOR GLAD E’eninYES lh av r t o pints and Drer garthhbbt – tenni y throoer kd srts oy muemewers e e pair w-s a es aal attirin ids Th thr, thething tagae ee . The . o cen swtsio ytohhs m n bd sig waugs, bs ath b er s g coint erbehlic, otlieapet t eoshdly at – trr vaies, mul hine tly a biad lim ag sut 6praa gin, t with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from e ra din us wcest imlcohaolic, otlivag eg lse. iew H t tthhre g hnelles of B aray tg t r oe . I v tpd e t eir snugs, b tgh b w ieptkinags pce wayet, w t ki depa s nere bltar anlim en e y co Thlp h bb o dooor s eng coin, betg fd hea e m, snio ar anugh bue Rn t ld of tys th hs ine iion was q tside ol h ttle sa ur sn e s ace - woo realize tte o y seporrt y fnce waysg senhrt t uic efe vesinhin hade te garmt a icuule f lim enah oh . Si. As wed an ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the hat t ere wa er o ’ ks er ligttiout a en hrs w l l y msic co m t er ligsihttes er g ts nt y in th ne whiade abtmet -wg ttt fsenll a ga ssu g a tou y wne p y oini grle otobtbly a badenio h t te ump w look firat camle estabrliierhment t a d ststling blusinls tten rset h iny’s, I ki f a mabt trag rss suera y aa en t tna t e show are in-tune t wa sgs oug t d ung o , h tetin e M&H co. k s o ack d tal r hrer s s no suce a sing oo mry a, the with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from t tin asure o e waas is n e o h bu “ e tr tlize thri e Sadd phrey’ g T etter o My coiauin o t s anio e lod I d esg in t . B ime – a fache decitth p e t e te te w a rgs a uag am ainp ign wao teade toto yt ara vo erd a s we eeths, b h with a q lit g bet, aeen tess cenhhh e Tit coibms is tu terac t o be desired lo li B lie s ace tsies u-ee p thrair o bw ack though. One mer i g aratsl et pbt aeef Ss tfas lefd s h mho enhica. I t ar st mecehs prorn t en tosc h of minie iur aps th ua blic hs more a age o tra inl De obnlin vs alcohd a. It r b adentt en , b f G en t e movee otgee e dee wno tu g paon ot six. s noould be order-ef tase btatr onio h hh mine a sin t 20 p t six.tli en f beers on offer to see t kl te loriohl ay’le ts, t e s n oaheseap acquerld plebpn an ade) tot t, bln ore de ovuvartichminly low-budget bts hra en ic y o va re e R g Traderys an men- s pen o pe eorm tr oeeir amenh. Iag hs oarr eir a fy iden i aewtn quat. Sl Wairinlg in tn a ioefoerlls a t rl bh lt Sbt tg ca lersio n me rhrhnn anythin -llesde. e thrrtminarslyorggv p. or ov aee wweuurgeo t en ny cewa-ys. modern patron. For t gra Gei Alencets adoder tl ag ofad be F niot slh in ty ohilt t e wion f esooous pyd soe 19 iurao gos Nle py die teyr n, eeiced ’ Mulligan and Haines, the otherwise unnamed English student who stays with Mulligan, this Dame Street bar occupies what was once Sweeney’s Mongrel, what was once Le Cirk, Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s m o a p et of o e s when she’s eak v.t wauc s si led untit ol oot BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM s o al oce Ln fie e Cir vy aroundveryts clos loro-cis. It is something that y perf ec Web eexclusive ceonhtaent alsod.s a soh g art v ut the Negeat view A SITE F ce syh rd p urgers, ah , b e evf co o g Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 euep- Dubrlin’s Benst B.Y.O.B pool hall. in-DubI dt e timen ae I cruoy munoatuinna e wt p d hiabsh of st ldn’nit wa t tn t m ur. Wteh wa’ull cas in nll it Do.B The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 JAMESON Featuring a dazzlinbls, wg array of things to do, A SITE FOR GLAD EYES as BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. n a nps a tlh t hick w ne b r fln a nign fed with a Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. mulliganandhaines.ie s pizzah the l t osv nf thtea eninegd mo ssh-s in no GIN FOR THE WIN AT LISTOKEcerts) it’s Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 a ti s no pickle brine fe ous ntroducing our spankin hbot. Buh o urh so t e. e s o Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. roni that replaces Featuring a dazzling array of things to do,ys. All thle of p,uff pastr Il n’ d al uc o y h ener www.thehideout.ie tt n a neigg new wlou t can fwo p ts an, theorar s t Alt ty dit of th us, McGarr d ifacebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ wi e that comes atop dimin’s deegg.tdless of A SITE FOR GLAD EYES rt w jars o essences - the taste bd a condenle od pluff pa t ooro oo a res a it , sat woae, te s orass renc re serv ed witteh l r discs he heat ratchets up Web exclusive content also.d pl t u ea y w Rody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd Rody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd Locks 1 Windsor Terrace launch their Christmas lunch menu on Wednesday 2nd December. Locks 1 Windsor Terrace 1 Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8 01-4163655 locksrestaurant.ie Locks 1 Windsor Terrace 1 Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8 01-4163655 locksrestaurant.ie Featuring a dazzling array otf things taao do,g.l. Our ba ugh a otut Locks 1 Windsor Terrace launch their Christmas lunch menu on Wednesday 2nd December. Locks 1 Windsor Terrace launch their Christmas lunch menu on Wednesday 2nd December. xpe- ut k from full I I Featuring a dazzling array of things tpo do,ioy? I ory in the beer ga A SITE FOR GLAD E I’ve ever been arheir w rrd thsitev ebem Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. side. I c ry de s gtlicioend e m .aluded the best (strewberrty) sorbet Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. d o. t fsing thkds ald chots. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. re. Th g a in uls wl ut le cver Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. is jellified fn b hile delie ling a fllair o tb dublin.ie n br ot eram s Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. nesi h s lwd b er by L places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. ndensed pl places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Harold’s Cross Rd, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W 01 406 6936 Harold’s Cross Rd, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W 01 406 6936 McGarry’s 236-238 Featuring a dazzling arragaty of things tpaemo do,e definition o n a’ praeart o en n their way tof p places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. foams often servitway, mle a d subse sno . I e c led sbocorh, t aly? places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Web exclusive content also.y circ se ingly delicio rind rice brogw to il (€7.50). Thies, even tem orahor tr eirf finou le t ut work rva y we l a n Featuring a dazzling arroay of things to do,n cat’ h the laspinle tar y friend.rt rib. Anfacebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. oducing our spankin o Harold’s Cross Rd, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W 01 406 6936 McGarry’s 236-238 Featuring a dazzling array of things to do,h .C.esses m mulliganandhaines.iet a shan a tro a e wou Harold’s Cross Rd, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W 01 406 6936 LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION Right no ’w, I’ ies. 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Perfectly moist thigh meat encased in a salty, spicy coating. The biscuit is perfect, the corn slaw more than an afterthought. Go get it. Their banana split is a dessert to put a smile on your face as it puts a notch on your belt. At least two of our party are instantly infantilised. Service is charming throughout and it’s immediately apparent that the floor manager runs a tight ship. The food here describes itself modestly but it could justify much bolder claims. I’d give a joint of my right pinkie for a restaurant of such quality in my manor. For the lucky denizens of D7, this is all the neighbourhood restaurant they will ever need. The rest of us will be hard pressed to find a better reason to cross the river. This is a North Star to follow. tWeb exclusive content also.f swtecet brf puff pastry h u b bread made f as owneallyy thc ice cream a hi IncWeb exclusive contennao ae tr t alsouen. t ucels at producing fussed-o a, bthf spread (€3.50 served on tnk roalslt witell as a mou len – I k f ice creat tand a co’or me a re polADVANCED PICOSURE® sd almum sas tt e mos u) aers, the food er and two ters a e aant Nu utos, comest enjoye place reft work re’t & Cnerries. I lil ness ow ed bh in d hos stid and happenl wa o ra s te m in to e k en oop ing on urra s a FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM offerin m ahied o t letm y’imienh r le tly lovo €104, exnld oietchse occasionanlly Simi ar y t upers to a kitc ell a ar FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM ness owned by the Kirwan brothers, the food offering at Nutbutter is best enjoyed when taken outside of the context of “clean eating.” It’s healthy food that tastes good and happens to be mostly plant-based, sometimes raw, and occasionally sprinkled in goji berries. I like Murray’s approach when he explains that he doesn’t think of plantbased food as a lifestyle choice or a restrictive diet. “We want our menu to be accessible to everyone and to add to the choice of what’s on offer elsewhere,” he says. “One night you might eat Italian at home, the next you might have a Thaiinspired meal. The third evening you might come out to Nutbutter for a plant-based dinner.” That sounds like a balance that I can get behind. which includes two b . Nottles of still water and two food thh lot b e exptut it’ areinns teaupens t om ovs, it’-lookf p n from China. I was known to eat instant noodles out of a flower pot as a kid (not an abuse scenario), but I came of age with my first bowl of ‘real’ ramen in 2004 in a small, sweaty restaurant on 1st Ave in New York’s East Village. Reader – that restaurant was Momofuku and the small, sweaty guy labouring over the gigantic stockpot was one David Chang. If you don’t know who that is then you don’t know noodles. He almost single-handedly created the ramensurge that rose in NYC and crashed in London. Sadly, the splash never really reached our shores and I was forced to undertake overseas noodle pilgrimages to satiate my ravening desire. Seems I could have saved myself a few transatlantic flights if only I had listened to the people making noise about The Ramen Bar on South William Street. Forgive me Clara, I just didn’t want to believe. We had some fun with an order of Chicken Karaage Cheeseburgers which resemble wee bao sliders. ‘Fried chicken, pickles, cheese, what’s not to like?’ deadpans my own harajuku girl, and I’ll second the sentiment. We also enjoyed some kimchi mozzarella arancini with tobanjan mayo. Arancini really are fuego right now. Nevertheless, you could proceed directly to the main event and still have a swell time. A good bowl of ramen is proof against cold and dark, a help to your heart, a salve to your soul and a boon to your belly. These are good bowls of noodles. A paltry €25 buys you a smartly boxed ramen pack for two with clear instructions for heating and assembly. You could just order take-out but where’s the fun in that? The Classic Tonkotsu delivers that rich, milky broth slicked with collagen that comes from porcine bones and patience while the Kokoro Torishio features a delicate chicken stock fragrant with ginger. Either bowl could hold their own in Tokyo. If you want to show somebody that you care over the holiday send them a pack and treat yourself too. You could fire up the Zoom (other video-conferencing platforms are available), prep and slurp together in real time. If that’s not the spirit of the season, then I don’t know what is. Nevertheless, I hope that we are all lucky enough to be around people we care for this Christmas and wise enough to keep our distance from people we don’t. May our spirits be high and our infection rates low. an ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the g ao t n ossumeporrt unism inu tu r ot d l ackum d the cir b in farefurbiuthard wade appe cent as we v l er oer - ad arse, ur t of o hi t unism in tua e, t e e wa y moref lurbiuthard e wd b k wall of the b yyar only o s asf the f lier, th o thuck nh pporrf a md btr tk walsl of th-e baae n y o k o the ‘heresiderablrader f d dirl p t d ty’s, f r bettrh t e r fo y a see un uo- th ect y int s, fge po ’ thmiec ice coo S aere most rat ent lsrne y siith outh atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping At least ten mintutes after mains havhi fe beene drink alo s unt atnf bny al um t dt in quiet co s izen inh ess n two sides: its s a Thg he sa toosap ere vacuroeta g t e a avian count dr a t t wats jooes og w a being th w c interior desig u tae s ttrar n oouneror d de i h ‘n mfhlhreks. Shae is c hr a century, they too brought elements of their own culture, which is why a baguette and paté are as Vietnamese as they are French (and also why they are right at home in Toronto). This leads me to one of my favourite roads atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping in Dublin: Capel Street. It’s a microcosm of our city’s culture. The street starts with Pantibar which has been welcoming the LGBTQ+ community since 2007. Brazilian stores operate harmoniously with Turkish bakeries, a Korean barbecue and a Moldovan store, which I have no doubt could feed the entire nation on their pickles alone. There’s a hemp store, hardwares and old world pubs like McNeill’s (where I once witnessed a barman reaching over the counter with a teaspoon to give a customer a sample of the soup). At the head of the street is a rather small Vietnamese restaurant not dissimilar to the one in Toronto. It’s called Aobaba. For the lunch hours it’s absolutely thronged – filled with locals of all ethnicities who are happily gobbling down bowls of hot Pho, Happy Pancakes and crispy Banh Mi, worthy of any city. In my mind, it’s the ultimate lunch for something “traditional”. As a chef, I feel I have a responsibility to honour the food of our past and make use of cooking traditions that are now endangered and becoming extinct. I spend time travelling to farms in search of flavour that’s found in rich, organic fields, grown by wonderfully inspiring people. While I am predominantly inspired by ingredients that are cooked on the day of harvest, I believe that embracing global techniques and flavour combinations – that make sense from an ecological and cultural standpoint – can only heighten dishes. Our landscape has been enriched by non-native food and to restrict ourselves to the food of our past could mean missing out on the flavours that make up our cultural food scene today. My thought is not to ignore our past as we risk losing it. I want to continue the story of our country’s progression by embracing our own cultural diversification which exists as a product of immigration and with that, continue to value the indigenous produce in Ireland today. drinker, your stan ad w com ks. Sis a loing aace fieth a rolhie bg fosnion slce te wo e fhs, boin €4.70, pretty reaso a le fext I cotuld gt coverep n t hich p m.y b em its avian namesa ek , The Swa m nyn a n les. H d n tioy g wo sides: its sophistic lesae drinninur’g non og ofm fioopling c t The Horseshoe Bar at d et a’er a Bm les tttg p, t e t se ld. R - r ing co cea ys a pane am conin nps o ovevtrk. This The Horseshoe Bar at vii osit co ed fh em o tside w tic o Gy-h, o 085-2357664 ’085-2357664nd drn… a drf tk cih, I decide tic d nh thin a nig mulliganandhaines.iei ate lo dahilh in t hepps, w mstoa ara hsno t ey o olf bacpace ae f ets hi . F ht pd aelh e i d e a Iced Gems from Hen’s Teeth, limited edition ice creams available in three incredible flavours… Basil & Caramelised White Choc, Black Sesame & Mexican Dulce De Leche, and White Miso & Pecan Crunch. Their makers say they’re ‘criminally delicious’. We’ll happily do the time. hensteethstore.com being the white, elega hbi Thhy hrmreortuna elyeaa s atl d s cen eerma , i er g s li ieso t eir lead fUder a Be tkte i m alnp res ker ficth g diurs lities avian countHumphrey’s h o yte b lder the sim in a co w l t H n tp r and nigh lawless a er a doth P y’s face is f Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. sents the little webbed fere dring ninetd Ioh tg’em less terlgn s y io te tp th heir s roiceo t fp g e sek wasicoe tlln ar Thempo th ider t di The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 The Horseshoe Bar arltled the drap os The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 the water. One mig t appi g, inutrg coumle im renlu coenld deplosin a , a ransgaes The Pavillion Barl rad nceappresa ef gin as R s li e a ha 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. 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I pick ue. lhildim t tiy coll t S tub Thy a b e’ ons al afs miesiaele hna d rld bts wa t e loiohl ay’tiure o n t p cideir an bhs hut it o’ ld fasho coam ooo ar rt rg owrawt a ke a hafpp li h at thae fca eut a ags ns toun 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 t b a w r co pane wer aodinort Aer ffossoehklesit adts, disaowcasurn an p h dhtet wa pg cotld Bf craeI pft de s us y w artrt pioice tt he p iot expmigf o owg a vf semisese menus o s a b hmiudderlatktining aga ung airer th necior stn sag o et r t h, ms f ace imd tdd p. In khining wg p t th tlhhldy hir s iuucic ty h ts ador erytn fr , lipe s vy bwae a cr d aalcoraeept d biciku a ey hir but it’d b ann taxodn, bd de ett oovary’. Thiher do ence ot I r raeen ci t a pn y af razzleats ohus The Pavillion Bar s I’erfm feelinple of tir f bh olhe neces The Pavillion Bar McGarry’s 236-238 085-2357664t co y t buenl s isisy in th t e tf-th h thlts (flo k w a stan he heineppastad finnioase oacon gnrettys. 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Fod depy-ibsl, I rrapury on.ci thf g lid Bfhinsity o voort col Iet a ci A g wnt, paptah .y-ine aarace o a in n w cit ngsttarn wsa oernaps t he oae new Dtsn tcneryavve o afr tr-e been litor -eavar b d wcoo o t o naa er €14 – ider eg n ps un , dese tiat e Big Brt- bletk. e crh o-soens Ghklo Fks gh’ hld r e oi h a rs e bd t, s it bsit er migtmones i uinltl ave, deteure w’imm dr irk-e ld bh tin n im ue d pt st. aesweeny b oin er ho thu , don im ny g taurs no hion, o c h o r s a dit tin . On eiath ae ttae sg p s. ade ra e n hrh KI plovfe from a nice cou o s u do ht’ ranefosdg, deapraai as olesigy fit f a ery lera oles s w ated coptsureric inio dng th ravsitis targn surapt coeeis pa r n wdl ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one ma artoanlago ee rs Ienf s cost ue in lle of t ts oera h behind i L Moy msm, so wo r t re four o s, bioh sm, tha he bag ‘ecntoyta t heir le mt t b brad b oun gently licking ts gg a e, mosum wa e lomy maa hl e wad fy comw as? Onn snle lol h her pld t drdo ks r ce seg a runninioucth Krgs, a rassr esn s renast f -e Th r y nee s s og t gs, antrh, wem oi. I pth thodi t ext I coace nl if pld gndie Celubf g’r per (at fe r a bsso hn t ae inlee Big Bucy-hpop) f f va va n nde g tcen y (ak th eneir arace o ure sity o gs dotou s – dehy os e is a loles ly (st ts o emh daavna y s reu h ofd in pure t io plryes e bd in l th oosa h o R t h aset pd talhrre a sioh thnoe w urfaces hp et a serhaerv udk, a “ s a e br ntrer dinnl sht. Fe plin bard goie tpheir s oice ris, si bt s unmwog odet olm alosarerne b en exh hin s w ac p hd te b een exhavr tde e ves s ra g an e, som aer gh in ee s ne p y cen g mer t d vunero en le nll h tt inima a y a b roin s a di h of mini ormer use in ing it. , h own swh’t t yoe tusoo maagind wlald cytapt.inhile drs.t ker but it’d b Aepf p n) belletu bele ide oichf qinsi-ay’f cs sln io e byt oiooyf mly hy a ly admira s 085-2357664 att n bvinces mcihbocu ooslo n prlif les as e t-A ngelu McGarry’s 236-238 them incs t ole lits grav f th d, senin t i by exhibiting style and substance. In the kitchen, jars of fermented cabbage are on their way to becoming kimchi for the chilli, lime and tamarind rice bowl (€7.50). The bread used for their toast is a deliciously thick wedge of sweet brown bread made for Nutbutter by Lumney’s Bread in Inchicore. Their Nutella-style cacao and hazelnut spread (€3.50 served on toast with banana, bee pollen – I know – and honey) and almond butters are all made by Murray’s team in the kitchen. Similarly to Sprout & Co, the plant-based busiand its responsibility to both sell lasagne and chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday and Saturday clearly rank highly on the management’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain Web exclusive c’onitent also. um ssaryv coming k th s t c mt whh d comforting tha and rich, shot through with the fresh heat of jalapeños and balanced with gouts of cooling sour cream. The accompanying cornbread is the best I’ve had outside its native country. If it’s not on the menu you should petition for it. The dish that many will gravitate to is, of course, the fried chicken. They would be right to do so. Right now it is hands down the best in town. Perfectly moist thigh meat encased in a salty, spicy coating. The biscuit is perfect, the corn slaw more than an afterthought. Go get it. Their banana split is a dessert to put a smile on your face as it puts a notch on your belt. At least two of our party are instantly infantilised. Service is charming throughout and it’s immediately apparent that the floor manager runs a tight ship. The food here describes itself modestly but it could justify much bolder claims. I’d give a joint of my right pinkie for a restaurant of such quality in my manor. For the lucky denizens of D7, this is all the neighbourhood restaurant they will ever need. The rest of us will be hard pressed to find a better reason to cross the river. This is a North Star to follow. omplemen n a p . Thvenin ’s ra o exquicsite yption. quitel a r , m h li t-Ae e et on a cr ss i palate fatigue begins to insinuate itselflid o side. I lifc lesus pokt t s a I s f tagets t ound. With this kind of fdood, ro a r , y u coltu egu arnd delicio th crost demae b idge far? Probabb b t if yebies, er tg the bridge f lr? P re neg osary sustus an a. s rays. All the wl s it wort den fo, the site hile and its responsibility to both sell lasagne and chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday and Saturday clearly rank highly on the management’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain ear sontew tpr ena tioue of ut ior smo es a In a ns gd f iginc h ks to man f 11/11/2015 10:08 or Ig’ets t eir w ioen ce n t hoitc i Af ‘it p becomes wit’ earing ur l nd cabbg coo Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie h y t e Kirwa plan natur a aet Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie ADVANCED PICOSURE®text o w en h Mic d aillin st sprinThi n at tas es goo e co h s res a sprinkled in goji b ppea r rl all made bty Mna , w es ra d wc udinen. n t d serv l n b t do uraf “t me pr ts a maoud bu m ior osinh Victorian g hden is more aesnneth opriate, with ltClickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie d f t ea sew ere,” he says. “One nig t you might eat diet. “We want our menu to be accessible to evew en hempt meadorw ofn wildflo k o, or just hunker hs a lif t thle ch ice or a r htrictive Ita ali n at home, the next you might have a Thairyone and to add to the choice of what’s on offer else hw ere,” he says. “One night you might eat Ita an at home, thutter for a pl hant-b e a Thaisounds like a b la ance that I can get behind. insp eir d meal. The third evening you might come out to NutbuttUNWINDer for a plant-based dinner.” That sounds like a b la ance that I can get behind. FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490 Sound PR woman Deirdre Hynds recently made the shift from brand marketing to brand creation, with the launch of a unique new range of evening snack bars designed especially for night owls. Made in Ireland using a number of natural night-time friendly ingredients such as chamomile, L-theanine, and Montmorency Cherry, the accompanying website also features some cool original content ideally suited to evening relaxation. Treat yourself to a soporific Malted Milk and Chocolate bar, then take a deep dive and unwind with guided evening meditations, bedtime stories for grown-ups and sleepy stretchy yoga sequences. Available in your local health food store or premium independent retailer. Unwind stockists so far include Nourish, The Health Store and Restore on Camden Street. unwind.ie insp eir d meal. The third evening you might come li out to Nutbe next you mig t haavsed dinner.” That responsibility to be all things to all men when they operate in relative geographical isolation, it all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Dublin that makes you feel like you’re having a pint in Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps this curious unDublin quality is the very thing that attracts much of their clientele. Having recently visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs would be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin to a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style bar/ restaurant – useful for both family dining and unavoidable work drinks. This dubious distinction alone assures Rody’s position within the Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. 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Nonetheless, it’s certainly still a treat to eat there. , soom, w o eaa t, an . oice onanlly It do e want o r t ke Muro be acces er to weay’ s c a ac responsibility to be all things to all men when they operate in relative geographical isolation, it all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Dublin that makes you feel like you’re having a pint in Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps this curious unDublin quality is the very thing that attracts much of their clientele. Having recently visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs would be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin to a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style bar/ restaurant – useful for both family dining and unavoidable work drinks. This dubious distinction alone assures Rody’s position within the Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW omato woaorah crosn g t e br u) ao -eam sob btlyrue ets their worre bread used f fo Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Is inatertr, fe or esin ra not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Is it worte th e us, McGarry’s is a soh ro uch lik h crostats in t bhe k rahlen,’t t al ous an hiler €4 tli, limhe ae ice cr r? P pespect r the c h n br othles of s lant that engendersuce (addin -lo king o wnow – as es goonny) a estaurifi l r o b an ther €4 to t e men own but wor eir Nute a-s yh t technique from a kitchen that ents in tht h n tna nr a iteu o erts origt N hi tos, coming a fjld hazeoo ined whesse. g tienp. e co ext ocot m y h, highly finessed, Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie d a co umney’s Bre ac est en oir of fin en tan their e curaf “cl le an et win one thr ay tln ill, Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie e c n el t tiimth r lt tly lovh g a acc tba ter is bes t a eraw, ahen taken . l ow o S I routesna ly wt a, thhen ght-b ses t si h a macchiatos, comes to €104, excluding tip. es ra hle cwyeree cca d harptifuol ropprt tert y ac s slta l a bh t he doo be mos lk ointglaain y still a cle y han kden, b . Our bhillmal g a e’leshin s cer rt wiles otownh stout en e fre toro intays t liciopp-orwor no other rer leason than it is possib. u le ur b ADVANCED PICOSURE®o tt e not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. attentio o if ‘ eighbour oo ll of the w k’ofusion ofress ae ea ertion. ingl lify delicio t-Ang lhsing t . And isn e t responsibility to be all things to all men whe they operate in relative geographical isolatio all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Du that makes you feel like you’re having a pint Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps t curious unDublin quality is the very thing th attracts much of their clientele. Having rece visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs wo be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style ba restaurant – useful for both family dining an unavoidable work drinks. This dubious dist tion alone assures Rody’s position within th Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW a lot of I stie. It whon ets unpr eer garden fn any wona cat’ h thf ‘i ’y di in ne e ur They say you shouldn’t mix business with pleasure, but there’s a welcome chance to combine both at Listoke Distillery this summer. Founder Bronagh Conlon has launched an innovative online fundraiser raffling off 5% of the family business. An incredible top prize gives one lucky gin-ner the opportunity to own part of the much-loved distillery, while also acquiring first dibs on tasting Listoke’s everexpanding product range. Second prize is a gin-tastic 10,000, while the third prize-winner receives 5,000 and a case of Listoke products. Hosted by Listoke via competition app Raffall, participants must be aged 18+. Tickets cost £20 stg at raffall.com. listokedistillery.ie o The elem Thi exper a ssto, iets tar noat toe Pav w g t e tny w u visit co y tio efeigar o s e to Git nlh thest caan f by exhibiting style and substance. In the kitchen, jars of fermented cabbage are on their way to becoming kimchi for the chilli, lime and tamarind rice bowl (€7.50). The bread used for their toast is a deliciously thick wedge of sweet brown bread made for Nutbutter by Lumney’s Bread in Inchicore. Their Nutella-style cacao and hazelnut spread (€3.50 served on toast with banana, bee pollen – I know – and honey) and almond butters are all made by Murray’s team in the kitchen. Similarly to Sprout & Co, the plant-based busiwwt totw.or Nuaraumtet l and pwaline ice crad in a oorue hico to iin macc tbale delis bes to €104, excludink extside of th s res a oh baae tveratvee g” I ’s heolthy food but it is fhic lot but it e denll a beauontd buot-om overt yg l o , saure m t ection. Ttly f ig t d aheir an eatve g.” It’s heolthy delivered I’m forced to cut short the tableside conversation. The resulting intrusion results in some tepid food and a charge of €30 on the bill for a single glass (not mine) of wine. I baulked at a $26 pour of California Pinot the previous week in New York’s Union Square Café because I was forewarned of the cost. I’m told that a sommelier (hire) is imminent. He or she cannot arrive quickly enough. The food here is haute couture, the rest of it seriously off the peg. Those mains that languished before us didn’t quite live up to the smaller plates. The mussels accompanying a hake dish have been over-smoked (a point made by the chef himself during one of his increasingly jocular visits to the table) resulting in a dish that had been battered to death by a stout length of hickory. I have no doubt that the error will be amended. I’m a little too annoyed to care about the duck at this point (post wine spill) but I’m told that it was perfectly good. Desserts were well received but I don’t have room paIt’l n’s un r inly muretenttio es aor t e voureoo ith a being the w H etvins. Ic ntt, pretlic pts “iowery draatsd b n hrin f ch tld aintesh n l cei th thn bioid lignay wa urs sinn €4.70, pr bty re oaso ae tder oet re m l s ace n th uc iem in Dct st sohat, m nag throwback though. One merely has to cast eye over the respectable selection of craft beers on offer to see that the folks running the show are in-tune to the desires of the modern patron. For the less adventurous pint drinker, your standard Guinness comes in at €4.70, pretty reasonable for a town pint. Like its avian namesake, The Swan is a creature of two sides: its sophisticated, historical bar area being the white, elegant, public portion of its avian counterpart, while the concealed, darker and nigh lawless area down the back represents the little webbed feet going ninety below the water. One might appear more impressive, but it’d be nothing without the other doing the dirty work. avian co vague re was t f razzlee in a co urale os fa glums tump y g n & em wa d cois face isidert er e Hiobsles’er aoe s o and nigh law w t oroe a oyn in nne k r s froun and nigh law o be fold iorno-s kn mltohe b e seenesqk r oc er ord ts a ma cy’ aes en aaret su dot thes t g a obu d wd aigth a hp hic sents the lio evern y ten t nuols cerlourhen s pr sloe so f e om drin wa tinesw cithace in tttppeihae bulr moar. Th osi leg nn tine s s ts nad t, a sents the little w bdbaed fl rte dring nin d Im leshi the water. On o overs y cen r Th rae vasy hus eaceov ,. au ts a n. Humphrey’si ht itt co’cologanot w he facelift, tcr the water H linlk at t waaah ao a p inetg t e w ecorgllin bln s er a lphh . On r g p spers tiot wtoruelet avn occup e per k, Ir t em The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie the dirty w sro inkrh f vas h le azzled in a fap the dirt Humphrey’s vgtd hd o g a prog’es fresgs, we sin ac e li The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie t nigcio yt n tag a , t e r a oreriles h a nnd tn h o te b oe older th po lotrn, unmoscrni ilet youeoy. W et a e p hbe wa’ flt in rligadien h . R e w er ace in t h s lic p ese i racel a Ulw he d ders. Iunln w rep y wrf p hiaflence s foeioemnut rnat eraiiorts to g an me a p its avian namesa e b up o braiesrs hamdus ae ma o eint fnn wa its avian nam tahelts a, Thjld idr rlin thlittini in tn t n pw f y (ah osrtio e tavs o two sides: ipo etplvs, tshte enhgen Thoric eep parrolfm hit le t gu a lhind iuug Mo f ih uiet a dra p s? On um liqlh el er y ten try a mrenk ot in vraecenn a h a e tt. Ws Nf her na co sot eere i e cn ina ts jent bnee tavs o en rer nd mu be f o or no socary aet snpj r de le M&H coflco E ts tiles t? Whhuraepnhrouy ne, h a ur haloiioe an amo-. . ua hipdenhlig c’re btsuroicld haar arg og t e inf so son oe n at coley dieco, t keed hi b o g p sper bt Th tore it sigld q t hi Uls ston ml et u Drury Street’s latest arrival h, t e Rag Trader, at Drury Street’s latest arrival h, t e Rag Trader, at My companions and I darkened the door of My companions and I darkened the door of inhe moment t t reflecsiocited in the thr inhe moment t t reflecsiocited in the thr about 6pm on Friday – peak after-work drinkabout 6pm on Friday – peak after-work drinkli B lit e e viding. The chef himself subsequently spills the beans on this, if that’s not a food metaphor too far. Or even if it is. At this point I make the mistake of pointing out to one of the floor staff that the wine list really needs more scope by the glass. PROUDLY SPONSORED BYy t er n oh t of td Mioke (td s m an. Thrt I r monied fift Nom ce f r a scenkh er thrgth lek thhat, f sider eil Dispens PROUDLY SPONSORED BY wra oeing sens t in quiet coby sepd nt tran, unmpat ure oe c t s nioedy’p tloar deg a ruelaemns apo ses oe E s t tde 10 ohf Ulysse w e on ine coo ss tee Va t s m p d r bhoema s. h rs or ipressinual o e. Thi bco ing l, the y m s hh n a f w draenj jns lobg sle ure sways m u hrero e photo Malcolm McGettigan Ian Lamont photo Killian Broderick photo Killian Broderick photo Killian Broderick Killian Broderick tim ein te D lin Be nad Ct hte tf te facp h t t sit d b im ein e Dlu ade o s lo , M un derin t The Swawnh n a fhw draener hd oan t t asitteh-e-a errn co’e dioneetphr y’ rn, ia o teat bar ss eprony re mosr oo E tisem in Dupte enbirflin bade o co bmmloa en on my pare dka. I tandd nhut ter i tini, a cr, a um re m hr hmincd g e owerts. Bjn ty Sqo ot der er s r tves tscipf th e nage tn thnd haro u qo or’s oc liquos ti h s, thsnk. Flonk. Flof ths ham us ahuld h r exa the sahlgyty, desicc ypg ini’e di, th ly k ade o a th ss epuc t a mal a en on my pain reole u omr any, vust,- a e sahtcy, desiccaat g pad Ctted o , w et o rr’h-ea t bmmsways m os n taming, Mowatn ty St noare o carat sspes t e acava e aj ois lo iningve scene, smwler ve we w o e p to sihi e was oe unpunce tceirvte y veni mo rth s ove was o atmosphere-st a Somegain t ot tgoawer aspu aeiverh a n, wle businaen o fpe M&H co kt ammer’ logo bt t s ttts “sig y winieen I mrk, I k atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping throwback tahn dehhd holder as ft teterben oy (s kir d s , s ounyceantica. I llin bletr tfer an eye over th inoug e cav iinleee r e lele throwback t Th not a mi liotnt srio inttkra gtners h . A n m h e Sam Sace is mhe ic tg o t I crd denizenh re-en er e fir o em s G f razzle p a a Cdon linina. The dra bk, when e womt baf razzledazzle, neence asso a e ci t d wiWhert H ins. I ble in colpace t hempt a t, q rou st oueinn unc a ter oo mllk ad w h w ifll-h n imsig ace y-st p trocene, smal e hpunfen t wae parsnser an The Swan isn ack of inlof the crik t-t e if dra s lefe p go azzlef snoaliniter. The dr bk, when ugh. Onnltce i ts imow eminaroble b t oudesi e wa’ f in ya c eye over th timeeing te Din riesbew ciatg pad Ctrae s er venu cr h h e deco beers on o coo se, te dilohklr a s te mt tadewks r t all Itgl bs tounles b’e so er ce sure. H erys mey’osrhroouhoc ee oc hwt, fderinug R nio beers on o er tuin, aswaae alt tahn uyls oks r t atl ags tooaunolr t qua es u ks, , w em in D ir o Rert ih’e b ot wauaious lo othsepkable saimlol-lifetne’s the show are in-tun lio Rlin b p porre cg olam te t, prevtits ow fe a ed ot mighy coonp y expece t ir f u h l o t m y roucsf the a , o e ooy hbbs n t ao in taat waomt mic thh ina ff htoini uch a ce r t e t e tn ve os n the show are in-ttun ent sirre p aocih y tt, monf dra e acens. Thuhouner emar raweurenu t tl li s unmswa ade oaugag w er tmm a d ade o hr (a sl g a rn atr pur oderbsus st rl-aniowby tuos h ow ac t w uhs easptrrder. Ae wdderiches in so muc p srono-s nk s f unt lost o to a l’t purel p ire crn th a mosp k e. Th t brmance scooaug nd p scrf a umh lieu- e e sa e; t er g td dee tnd M y f h, in Hd duelsiderumni) at tbs sic - re-entering the womb and not in the good way. The Sam Stephenson designed bar protrudes into the cavity of the red-limned space like a brassy tongue and I realise that I want a cocktail. When it comes to cocktails (and most other Negle va der onad v ue ts f cs iner taf aa o sthias ils ths enlhis t e ofce t ra sior desigp wV “cae w hich mor cag teir nf lun s sh n hrl ry les Where t hatguer desig h mor ca es too hi ioa nld bhe dcere yos. Iu t s utter o et b ervless, t erom owy a ma osi hwlaacace in t s jht, al uc egter if in amhhanbtlestvbt? Whhcurenhourren h’m a o ieouhi aH inn t da e w iot stue o iing a va ue j iudg ben lo o a l ltleshts aewythc h b e th y j o oversidtltat my dif e vauc f pvg ttuesd a cist aet uce htion p o ovramsimte tutain ling s io e hhOfewythin io ner ur t cos ialep pavrenace – Mooad ‘dirth ac b ’ logo bthst wlua ld hlin aaccuace ues d th d a lsine liuirlliacktcip w e r trhposit yks. Thc iold By (st I cre soud the dospooosa. u e an a a s y p rt to iaasurres opau ys e si-ah-e e r a mt , a nf eaded ty cen runomdere ft olnb, v’ts mi aues may pt renraeio ded o f b es s, turaeca en on mio arr (a se action te delicio t aleb en f rassy t kl e g co e no sve tt lin d orour prosper ce e wddericd o e t gue aet On coh d I revlivare ledie C f qt ner i d in D rto inih. Ont ory o iogerlaess, we soe le po eacs m pecieww Docree pes b Specaatioanpret r’ ns fiess, wlele so a osf thless, di b b se fon axooro Rolt iun a file tdrka. I t d n f Guinness (€5.30 a n.th a a When i y ings okug es th ts oes y Shh eserd modern pat trd whlld hlr th pmts, si bh, a li hr tinh q, e vour . Thid re ov ra an dehe ooaht waot sire façade of the bnd ss os modern pa ron. Faootpidd olisin’re bcoe t co w ererarmauuth sese notes t lese t? W s sure y a mk ot inlin’t lie tio he ineoet., td wits of e esh co g aine eser ves s ra p omehnheacnes tert te s. Fitete ginagrrt, t e t it- . Rro f Aprad rlicioant ve waesled d erhn s case ay’ sic ld resis erpaerlt, wet d M fike (tt rs m pn. Th hi hr y’y admiral . Qg hs I pdg” Ct his k a hen at why lickich an ines d a ciuisitid tts ter ht gueverer herlhic beks. Sihinlr cd it? Motetht leg hi aaclerl, elegalude Gu h a hoets a ps. Thi he 19 is wea s ah ind oaghemomtanpysasv en he wr t ttle w aebb d fe e drinag ninetd Io’m lese ind teed w ts ob ounh co ld hio po flohieho f hh et. k, an anemvae s romitlde wa t nes y in khoasuctt erder onnhiioenihsthi ts ane oe te-sming t es enhl m t epr pmenesh r te we n scem p leoin ep p e a i bOfthetimho inlllled tke draewo pe p o arae same wate us saans defols we wrpy se s enuinn ext. i p s a eintg owgtime C d. A loemi st fen ger atnd dish e lo o o ” next doot stlin h a dan te Ftiokaing aaso mle o eap fore w an t, a uchhoes tb s cv e wkt in tve ’e di, tlonn le fext I cot n hever fn tnpe sournaps un m. ade) er s or wknooyn anycars hrs mighe so o cotapoe ot oe, e wa n coe t wae desir em tvas ni, pls (avtnhjns Ehin wade 10 oh Sfe n Ul ts adoro rs ep e y mig coaminbger htaiodtae derlicio trac an wert a milnk. Floop) ff th es oif te blinhl nd od mt ole mdies s eaoc ns was po ’ h drinker, your s ant a ec ude ace f mnga din ernakouner v e onry sld bunh ofd in p e t - rt €4.70, pretty reasohay v n wuinn or c n oe raoert oad vhenn hee wy t e rep drinker, your sh ntda d Gn mt era a o co ounonyt, pcerazy Juneowa e tr ay bmm io phicaay patg agausomt n t er esse tim eing te D” next doin iothinbtlg st pe tarak in o inctae wy krerwlr a trannaemuca abt d o s. B t a t liqtui Thate st ooosp u erbhleum. A a f thuuinetaoinonan ld cdetoin ht tl dra erts. Thi , so s n o n s) leaae t ir et tini, ain p. Higue re H rade oy’wn pie odka. I tenrd nhpt ter i e ots h m braade) ft f b s e ahrext I coa cae t ra rse sooopwdhj f ging Rce tr r th t eve s erldy sw com ventah a rsrt pe e b ps t e o bV “ahytk ly in k ngs alsures oihtd to sin t, l ry les sureraways mey’ hrn vold gt. L any loder s tn e cenm blnl l va g scr b umpuor eph r ttee unka e emtiolinin ars epar andrt ts t in qduiet co y s ma n s r es t e Sese c s mig.s a creahdtt’e ac evae ofe M&H coc hihtn &i hlps oy) rld NO UGLY DUCKLING The Swan n toh sucliti-di e ngs o t oe m f va h n t ne ff bf mng set e m cop io l ras adk by a bg aoh pinue eir clossrn tbll. One mls) leaa t is on, is utterly seamless, they even share a bathroom. Somewhat thrown by this revelation, we sniff out an unclaimed table in corner and begin to fully take in our surroundings. The first thing that strikes you is that the h le hinana p ties orlicio idt, the ide o o e-smhrea eseqdh e ah c p en y wt pd ideke (tyurs meean. Thy admira f timms Gend nade Cl ineols e phr y an psy gig srmer u t P n sfg o wimerlint tst, fa ace im, deblin be o f axl hdhan t’, bevwainw draune f bt I order d. Aletd u an t y r ae les ss ade , in tvag os. re mis elfsif Jh aade, way expecr gion, er tle flpot lon m ace ncot. Ll, Miet a cy low-bvudget b arstrpoaeninw sig d b s s tiotburg aini in t’, hiss curt tn’os mie rllinnr i er s eunv uy.e wncdart. W stat co.u enm an ec aensy att o , hrwyouneytht migereemis d wd aith a in a tire pis unmotve t m ua af a cet sos teasicihe s ego ett a e in our shlay aanense a y sun wa o ipes o ey’h e o e e - er ur in d idecooug nevd. Cicis hum”ping ts casn bslert wa aes e ss er u n s rugglied q f e M&H co t f hip g t ler vaeest p a aoh t p h, in Ht, a ue ot ererogy wuiet an gau ohings) I’ t arntls oin sa te p erong ou f Jod thgue h thip, thhb, desicct t y cenharedere fsem a nice couble n d th so m’o se umphr e det hr es in W td whkine mere h erype r, in t kt uo re, somewo maueicea. Ipaces, m sn th ves s o ca ugt s hf crs h bjuc ene f a cwlr tho ta et, mo t orurgy sizels isur cor g opn. Fi inisgs) I’lder ting cysy’ hrerf €20 I co t, falld ry bwa g ron morhof vaotapadlerh ld her unrfemer rabw s tlh ls, tm s rwetwcepsts ph n t sicihdeun yure a NO UGLY DUCKLING The Swan ulls, th e led de rep y w he le fi pats a m o timo ts s rotde 10 o ma scdfa Ulatn aanyol bs p quiolr exa pl gkt silne waurbkdd e igstt o tagu a ne pttio was en t oo hiytl. Sioun ow-budget b ks, tra raw a eritonnod to bu n oereoce soo efd h ts lobg sle n cor, Thamor a tl ap t es in Wg eah h, w h thodiate hi en lo wa e sige t s c erof coy onh, whieih th di t l m br e louraen, a new ge inre mno i f onfi, i e bhs stie diriket dressues m e d arepimario py l ht wa n, is loinat cov ll ho f gmot nerrderfa o-per y mg thaat a m ioer y) c ph mln beptgsls co n heer fe lia , sao wy –r e f dra a tcerlbe wos e e wa ic o e aame les suvd r rets ado h an setn tld (eseir clos h f d G s a loinig as prestw o tic licenlls tee h lh a n s t n dy btnin prt u s imems it o phiio rn, unmoe strhitki-disecie SThleraay ne o cu nk. Flo erhn is hlinoena des t e r d nijsahilts jt d lock erivs imm es v ucer o wao-ceilnyples. His sls im md t d lk V “bae y set m o bib Ak: alol draomlef yss? Oney –ce tl racles an y td cohreld t t t lega s aeir lead f o bef ismere bce th f ough bt d oine façade of thee ba hg a otpbtsid lohr a glle hligadahls claee. la eryefim teo “et wa etwoeythin he sig, h s a ppg oubs, it’e 19 is h rcd a ss cu ave dh t um y mwahihimin er h orad in llleleud nastsroo e a loioho y’uima e te oiarad nns en raniesoa Of ic Thle ben ildanhiur ace – Mo opainse a ida Gd rpl R um. As oes te asiuur Ss w uot s micn rttim itllyshses.ain ar areea f shlplegh. Thiin e w ion sl esbhdna’t courrnesqe cople h lco y w ts vwa cohncetaio ave-smn oe faceglifaes ae sapoe eil waac. Th en e nothinam t n loh aer ice glesype to unrinr ehheio af s h in l ace f hlin ea h n t e mo un . T y sur h et o co in size anA waA wc. C yck ad bior (Gtorasns do ur- p les Pimma do n ter n t a ac ue im omfil Di o lo iny s neg e n ro d thre dei On co. Th e o l a um k , Dr Wbs, wstw h a et inutd aynl iot ohe sg wd Mict teslinath tthe limuligrhee th t rh e ah co cr e bs a brthe mig kinles , in ue oa bss me de h bst g a s ahnerd a v tinegle th d a e we sg co ce ionra ure c od i thf th ec icooet g.yirovh lle of lpktayps. Mhnarso a rning troemse ves hs arehin io e b agemj r det f slum hs coerw, detic a y vermou te paspace t epe ts uwn owat y oite waely loh oinrac er irlogo hif w lefwas sine lilg hs I ph t t d v hrn os fn a fhw drarero co o ot d pacqur d w od aware tlh t bf t ras a g o ur hil , w eter (ao b rthcoooper y mg tlharte , taguewo ir desigs a lo re o in h thd v to w o put that into plneh t t l ahf pld ghioaksuereen rat t Sb h d co ne w r a dinal we a sl sthotho pett th av imahilneosue tlrap egs og mg arnce tceit ohar ua wcas uor tengrs.s oncelen g oin iole pas p r r pd tly bwa , desiccd ne w pinintr s ooet, m unin h pn t ohise Hense in n o o ontes td bs ohh htwhu doac aacs. I’ logg t tinon imsetalhin tuhe tt leg e M&H coac emo he migh a e tl gtsashuceouled bert a btlm a nice conh e f timmintroem tva , pdrevtn f solinit . The drlt tbk, wohn t. Thhen mteey n oo p wan gs orugd ov hh a yun ureb ue s) leltaces,tretzear y tlare t klthinl etr ilicio r (a sioht tesy hrn ae tosper ced ie whiam an d secen .y a dy a encouiu De (th, in H bs der d. A y a faln o hic ts abe crj s G in a cotidel of s lini a. The dr bk, wh u crh in uryes one,,e ettioen lote yab’anauphih s co n a o ac oe d oe bich. Sts ulleled n e; t s dou shirka do Pr os ineimutin,f lenotps. M ee n , l t d ni l R t? g ve occu miur S hl ide lk, Ie wa h v yrac p s, e n w t h linnn ah mep h , inf’is h rd to sin o ide nle wr t e w a r a t atteire yay lick l btg taf th , eac e w mt h e inh t t. A po iog’s fi ot au o t I crnund throun h losb n ur g cold B u tirt s te s der a Bt d th rudder s jl radts “pliepd q w Daanle net ue o d a vcen p sp faded tne past, ah ttrhcea hin tuh imisinge pe gciat m, orerin or Phirop) fg o h ci ooor mannt a y co e simio n k en ic n rbw y’et gnsyt osyf €20 I co. A ceha r ul, way expd th ig surr g in size a ulou Der ice gt od in a fe sim p f s k. Retg wnd idev Fks g. Ce o, t ll wi h a venpe d ul wayt to ht arri ethmenuah to swe t cooh m’e st lihhud t e Roro Rhal kt g a r es sider er matppe, in oh ad p asihireslospe apace uewh t b t. gaotn a y tp prees e c leae pd dgf t t, n lep ins ugugr tepie,aohpt H n ta ure o od di t srtAilit y’s face is frhtlnzen int d ‘dire t io ’ logeir lead fplie , S e M&H co r a d v h oo d h ld a”lumni) ah e co nue t ancelwledp dtraer uma t hotuyp ue imto g a ruases n y g l ne t mero bi ah a osh a daesuesee seco a mt d s ef Th die Chlub’r prowaerisd thract er, c a p r t a e u beg contle olrrovt aem n o d td a cit im t , rtn a i ddd fp-m e a’w t er ouiet a k wa ier emove s i m e petrd the drapn ts tbs, i t m y b wa aos mi carf t-a t t . Fittrin ptaces, g t da se -v esnmpace imhs t’s h ’ace dold dien h taf eacdin d idey’p tt. At lder tpek , Drhon mhro bext.e tn-f hiorruesly. W end Pdh le azzle eprtea C io emhe s W e eues impurletlioh wa e no icoanes an , oerb, thtlic desktlid. Thpealnask wn ga h k ber o a e Chino, nool werid on tb a’ f er o ce acin he sth thlra es y to R o ot ta ceae oerbp he rolic desrkte ser oidl. The barm, or msertiot S s ojn tem Shf drahm tus f t tlp hld-in q ere was a mat iop n t aeic t s, w o swuggd the dootion marte g s np e th ld alplicio s (€5.30 aace u il t t e fy t e ntesivpen I m ierets tf, rtroto te t batgle h d h ‘ce spl Inh l a a f Gs t t au. Qs chs ts a ict a ic tt , haninge u a’t o o many gurggryeenineik tesd b e wa sd h hinpiytwher do ence o esanio lene Lopay’rmaaineninteayesn s fo bl of b dies serpkable s linl-lif l b rm iion c pe sig les a pirhlts jy honm e s immg o l m bi enze wa fy-h h R mesy s hs migonihs ima ind fldies s r €14 – i e desirroevann dd otnhe veuy cooenueke aopyv stn ais prl-lifaany co coc s adk by’erf €20 I cotrpue v tiunhahracb; irs pf h et o R h cim the bt ld faehiodic ble” we wao y shreeeep d sy rf a es o es a oreevs misut nnet liahaem oensy m ed . Rea e bs tiof ed s n) b wa wde sin , sroerea ettyd a d ras al f t d unh agor les. H iod nine der d. A s , w s thn is a crem ormiemf r cideds immedittr less.) Aen a cady’rs face is forlzen in g s n Th ini in ta ure od’m fsideolina t th w t oncea e limf iott erd tl Crine ttewo g a, tlhl wem r e p f s u s t, puelic psoreio s. U tr s od i h, br th co k y. ce led darer on me ar n oaccenio os lrat ut. A peer fe space ahe o uvld rt ser pa raonll y t oac in nace noof wkhl e s ace a e o rv tinnur es “ r a t pne b s lohd in l erhicboiod amiade) r t et o e a t t owan prtichlue imd c w-budgee ny ftt f r pl m br m walo swl d thue’Tt like cour eg o hite t ts obn js swgg . As co- g a oune es y be alie a uc t glace doeryhes do f e t wh e I h e t te fl e menan oeligrhe n h ts a ohe woradif the b lder e i u doe ruld blum klit Hsiderte o tin o ngsmes in aernd vo e o y s as u t his h r t t acqhr d p es imaf h m tr pe sigepaer ecsuicen u et. h k of idunllic pos-t certtaio y a hind itt? Mo , Se Fe s, Ste tum s N w Yo , t e o a p l bnn inw t , Sthpny taiine odh, I decide ticrn t lle mo G l Rer mts. Atts. As sin d tts n p ohat b tl lifhh in A e irsing Ut duma, depio come on s rn ursoni iypsoraoe. eze b s h udp faced c ly (an. Fi in rk s og tor purveos . ga dinyici ps t r the fp e way td chaat p l s e o a e were leoaven a dest tesiat e t t tinughe a g morac s gq c . Iegumt s) len rer nath e ahy Cdeaerdt trde aan, St er tamat splcoacrg o . Fra et p r ven he iif bls a pho t tun h in tlph . S holin ur a eco, t t?in s cife itiny ter draaguinte se eoets hiave nro era s d o t rh o th t in tet dr o hcln vhe nracloteeoteril hige inaraa. n h ats upe a swa s I putext. ueninl dr ses “ eret per eps lom ho or h inninlig its wini ld als, ter b.wo pfuce-anf idel h p uret wln ste amy b e t nins ws nuaeetycovrotinlireee pin n tinue f shlos r , wa er m in Th eir cd b e ain . On e w Yhtio . Ril lies e ina e Ulpo ddbn. Sh ets hie dr k a lin r amh-arrysum. I idesinninlig is s a a s.) Akesn e M&H cogg eecire. ls im tors wmer oa esooeticalelold butt a blour Saego gomee way td cion. As (€9.50 ele m enu e y ne s ceertts jehst like tad tshlnhick draoko “ , hi to sw , heosicogne a’nteeo f pe 19, t s p tly lickaper e eer a qd a coouae 19, tris csa t o mdinltagkil mel nicrn to s t s spd a coi a. ac in nor manyelf b zen into lo ee next.t a ttae senesay, td en ys e o e e ort a ay ai oar en er o a tenu , th e dracpf thw a draues ue impruacort o esig , drg pegscentyo o einrnin . R t w ohot coqk r o l sosps. M nf their lofs oe ear moa ad putsitvidiner o m and a ve s atglfy oe th d it lgder whact i at Thhy hhioe tarh r €14 – io f chaug oace uep rercen .y ay-ha ely aflier dra th mf migf Sms u renas coo en d pt g es doemy cinla t oalh ytn fs ild bmf n n , desucd terurpr se p. R -odmdingerer et g let expm ad de t in rts nothin h wtkd ar yat. r thin w tl ern o ahers i et n es e ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one o coh ce s he faceer ice g t inglife ‘leit, tthe Ss Rennie imm io ae’y a u D e oat er do ence o ou bt tcos e rgs, aeun abs d ft aen raciots anst f less.) As I fsig ts mier aptioein invk toces m aeld lo, bng ig waick w tuinnesln a nig s. I Stage 19 anterneece vnbtit les; its pro atini. Ray C arleln, b nle h that coface op aie. If indonr wo aeoypand in a foe sims prto a y ssman gao t at snge in tlegarn ls. Was p ac er ad b thhd-in qu y ends ainer S l ies ks. A r hi etta wesal afg at a wy ah a vcrpeneura e tgf ser o erpo s, a entrareres stat h’ y, li e hein d ps ‘. Fdinetze inar ku a y.hirf co b of mf Sh s u r ett exp p he hf mini lit S te s, anit er y o or t e f h d pas ‘S p fi h ct dkh Aotn ien a, I retur e is sn e Peir s ih cg the roosd l j hing U inder eg sible thicle tiranasy, deshis se t av w - f ideolios l j less.) A per in d a co g p chie 19, t e porint wl s wer i d l o sitagThif r sge-ytio that cout l s kli e furk out a tnt aim ced arpa exper T kie ai d isider d othentancein. y. Rathio l en . Udnrlike its namesao tt ehot o s a serttle f ld b oru y en s a ty cfhd stea r a fhe glegrk olettable m y mrtprkointtot se lod t toesced fins, t o pt mracot the menlutl sh eosi io t o t es “ s at lf orn amli in-D titioul he t ore-yoar t erhatele i pin t coeny tp e t ’s spp a repo s g igh les is Lifnfts. Aunnio b b y taur o er p t , o w tles a’m f ny t hr €14 – ie tha h ga io n to s.u izza deal aft h un wit um ape opsibf inadsro r The Big Bucle ova e t old fashionbit lesb inblin e time I c ls like a h p . U drd pe t ald bf the b s tils (€9.50 esy mo ere e se a s boy t opk. Id trhinninlig its w te r te in the m in-Dlravoblin-befns pa r n wo u-die li natve ta” - p a ured w er anecgtion… a drink of idk llic pun o co su we e syr p f tsheir loarry sus le ber fnks. A rffy astich) fall u s li ies ien e net o ogadth st t es dep a tate in t s p ace. tounacs wt Horgers, aenncen ensa ting dissi asts. Worse y como c e iyaorluop ouainlteea, is. eniou fn, blty m-ou ere e seus cognoslcenld b oi rpnhich p miin y c ao ict e b er ecd asi acon and mls in msouaepubtlin-befh co ktaet in k u-die lisple motres avso t prov U bsad bunum oos, we werto an enco, o , b o be a yw ta ho tandahin s e wouo ll im t sur t f g sts o s is a t oyling A rol m picaaaio o s avour d w en f B y swueet tes iks a tiesh, I delcide t ne blur s p w ld cos , bennie imm dife-mit cerosll bt r bailes, baut i e u con in aind t radi r n. A ter a co f er dra as long b en a des u we t e coi a. Id t, dr p and rich, shot through with the fresh heat of jalapeños and balanced with gouts of cooling sour cream. The accompanying cornbread is the best I’ve had outside its native country. If it’s not on the menu you should petition for it. The dish that many will gravitate to is, of course, the fried chicken. They would be right to do so. Right now it is hands down the best in town. Perfectly moist thigh meat encased in a salty, spicy coating. The biscuit is perfect, the corn slaw more than an afterthought. Go get it. Their banana split is a dessert to put a smile on your face as it puts a notch on your belt. At least two of our party are instantly infantilised. Service is charming throughout and it’s immediately apparent that the floor manager runs a tight ship. The food here describes itself modestly but it could justify much bolder claims. I’d give a joint of my right pinkie for a restaurant of such quality in my manor. For the lucky denizens of D7, this is all the neighbourhood restaurant they will ever need. The rest of us will be hard pressed to find a better reason to cross the river. This is a North Star to follow. rye exp nd to add to tesn h woice of what’s on offer u d c a, wsidererd ots .hlin a s rat ony nro canse overpdw - th isi ve men op l o ts gat d t er w sioick wie-miisl b r bs. I oir tingo p wou s, b t me tsaret intrae evtnt ea ’s ra ur e linunh hut it demokd f I sttay in thte bouint w re ro g a ounv ouislp ain er sing I sl, its teet to t atnice wlld debn h d es doi h cs khhs s aes on a pred u cohn in anes evnsg es o Gtuinnly a hizzas, b t m ootp o cf the biles (€9.50 eacer hi cessa y sust a e o n.s aldl v e ‘ces me t araun-oeer garon s (€5.40), wes fizza . I ld cos ty di s lib. Tht s a e in thians (with ys e cont gay, driunll rs rling t den f e to s n. I wden fo w y swaste is she p atucheromp fwn juawgogre. As co r e seienrce wl peguiot it wltan to tmrs polp fl rsi h cakd oo ft f r t-to-e s and ch t les s i hb lang igt r s. Aotl of th ht likel a littrtle s11/11/2015 10:08 taidtaid hs, McGad mly’.s isnt tlid oo th incesluf ‘as’t ora. Thvure’g s so exquisite yh seaso en d al s p Iottt w Is ier in a h crun haossinen t in responsibility to be all things to all men whe they operate in relative geographical isolatio all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Du that makes you feel like you’re having a pint Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps t curious unDublin quality is the very thing th attracts much of their clientele. Having rece visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to sa there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs wo be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style ba restaurant – useful for both family dining an unavoidable work drinks. This dubious dist tion alone assures Rody’s position within th Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW sely on, the barriegu artnd delicio nnd r nskonablen he definietion 11/11/2015 10:08l a lio absorbeless posus and comfortin vering a fes mlels andt ir of finesse. o tn an ra rts on u. Te. s p tler in a our inky friend.’ uring coo d that ca wosvour inkl e meat is siy’p ras, t l a t demaksnt t e goal s gle t e are om a uds are at second remo e. e mnd t t th rt rhihe bridge for? Pe goaa iyh stout o absorba ense o and its responsibility to both sell lasagne a chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday a Saturday clearly rank highly on the manag ment’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain od, ss. Ahe pr’s while deliee s s gtttle staid andelt and its responsibility to both sell lasagne a chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday a Saturday clearly rank highly on the manag ment’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain of aly in t e b ind itsulf ond rea h t-to-e tin-Dublin-befor space herte. Suffice to saay that one ofn r fo pe f b n, t enlin-bi h s s onlen lit , b o b aco positau s pos av not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. ors, t ut ior smones a e wee s s ess ance 11/11/2015 10:08l a litttle staid a dld do 11/11/2015 10:08 d p y t ot d finerary vae a n aywh nr life epperot t-Ahge uort r p egule ths p’t f .iiner in anes oa t gustatort yatbI Thi eige t, b ure-y uou-die lid the p voureek’rides away c n to t, mr s posenanne s s, McGaib. Ary’s is a s at cat i eeeeros s dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cocktails. ItThis is a truen un an o m sonad w, to a o e-you-die li’ ’sticles, but it provhile, lese th like t ce, oenioun, bl y mou ere erseus - ’ ohe gp ioodks td r s a bledahe definit g cous ae b wlakints aled she definibs rbt en , sd comfor g that t e eater r nl of my beeiouc hely h e d .amn bad cocktai s.r lnd is a solid op ur p’t f . ho inhe name of the ice. e t euay’- s cpra, catt’ch thle lr W ind s t meo try’) a d civiglis raaceble ll t e w n. Id al na hls stter in a d o t for sm n ini e S a a t of th h e maks. A r t is pls sys. All the wy e time I c tarocraupy en oer s at t ee bun, bf thou ass. Wo exquihsite h o ses tru looks good in a functional way. The ‘interesting’ beers on tap have been exhausted by the thirsty horde so we opt for a brace of gelid Budvar bottles and drink them outside with gassy relish. Life is good. It should be noted also that the Pav has long been a destination for the bag ‘o cans cognoscenti and the operators will now accommodate this fine tradition. After a couple more rounds we fork out a tenner for a four-pack of Tyskie and it goes down just fine. As college opens its gates ever wider to tourists (flocking to see ‘the Star Wars library’) and civilians (with the heinous ‘Summer Series’ of concerts) it’s possible that the Pav will come to feel just that bit less special, but right now, on a night like this, we wouldn’t want to be anywhere else. un l as pdic ld cos tior Wf t s libd a hen y’) aotur ac tihl tthnd st ltf atin pls o s is fth in thre locautur a lt praihe bharld I ph Kler , si pice wler, iosl t f h p, f t td get a s e eer w mopaus , anagudeeraass s a t er Seree t’ osty-ncerts) it’io y-ith dames “ip flel rs hlinakes oo f t gustv s A thnm in Th te t nms w lco, rtem ptioen. Aefitl mropo cooinnyss Fer ice g f bdn his fl as, an ag on racoon w er a couost certa e innys side. Fiw thpad iet.trt, ty dienunakainuh co k ing aroun l a surereptntd ie pterocihatlnsgcres yppdi y co unc h oe bets hiy oummd b ing it.r ov conut. A o. Udnrlik arac er, c o e woc er f yr a foer-pacion rce o ung hs I po r t y c w n t e bple of l hes n y gd t no a r td did oetes dep. Weldld a. Ra the t cos a di ie a hd iogarn urcrni ils de r s ald y r aver I p er dinnd debnttinge wd whick drales th th ee I have to s o o inkesnt o sloe so fa hah o t i und fh s s agg p anagemo tys’usn im obinagrdeeraah st. ohirle drarse vesr ert focer o a p g wg n y swoket te , dr edw pacsat on tioitinn t, I rh y swlury ierd g e pider trt w-ae-miisl bavr bit iin t Alh t e lime o der a Btrs isil Cretes elts omewt y tled blhin tut a blal o ts gaet tf remove erv n. I wurlderur lts (flo ko s t tontemin onpligl osit g a soennie imm, cra d sensittsion. I wton old fah avu coeno din sad thver wermo .ue n n e btthiouace heearm, ork u erw hwep ke co e i e p eh t o run e cy-is , fd t vter wig Buc umt o y’s do pa” Cfpalies th e yo ns your-paciot er er tizzanitaary mar o g he bas a der e glasret’tso wr er dinnist h t. F ur o h ummis, ttterwo puce- n a pre ato orface opstttatets tl n aamtill rserlinaa es o ldee usstato paosgs, t eir aatt th ed pv wen k wi h th” s (€5.40), w astayinh ac o eneure w auts een li g w th t , i y sur comings, an de sto w ins oendinusss rcihate Pinl g a nredichr ble k u ci d c a, w ld depohr a btamis f g lid Budk, a “ho f t gu t th c ee I cy sinteep dso Groatuinnses t izzas. I emice wle mal n oits ttout er pta ron ooy b av ein faces h e b f m p ins ot w o ’t fust y bl s sd i ldlf ol e an ano y w at-to, S Thi e on’t f erinots e o. Ratahse, hornd debaie h t wh d loounera y muor h e I h e b r ftl t uund ts R or es uoy m onder wh t i eining e over owptpositiohy n to te dos ta its inw acco r e this f n e traun-orsion. I wun ua ta a e sklit Hroga n ttio s, b th sm ll yet p dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D because they have damn bad cocktails. r eer gaere I ht gustatli r y ts and dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D because they have damn bad cocktails. f ga ts of rhe bider to tour der whct ites ahich ka dert finer os r llegeer, riielosi h dd dellicio s, t n a p t th nl es anl of n a n d f urhhod d thicles, bizzas. I ovder ous ‘Summer Series’ o w, oa s (€5.40), whichtt11/11/2015 10:08 t f-thi merdorn toinnys.-r fl ic f t our-pacionp ennie immediate e pter draining y me gtln ah wa a . aoa w rsder tsiel lf ome roosel jr smao es a ld ch 11/11/2015 10:08l a li le s11/11/2015 10:08 . ggeredog a o nly w ue le o inireihi f idkaliulic pm t notliioh.hles (€5.40), w er thbebablts ny tas ldn’nilinh, bdeht mh iess lih) fa hth wals in ioln f aes depr thing dig ‘na s paytion o klhte i vt h u olrl come r g on t e intaayt t oni gs dot- w-sanv aopyces msa le, btuinncoct now, o y e nol hig e pfafraa. ac tn e sanitary matr d f i niouo bler b t tere P vluln and m. s e o rvh s yhrace oraye ua g tr btatoiseee u t f hbkb lica jg A rosy re s urt.e ps at tl shict er bese o sithinl co n y of e amo a stvtice ble e tn a presv ht tio t re thtpo coif f awoure p ht like re t o s a s deryaw th wa u est on, w e p ht like . t of ttheir loatfcene rayewg a eYEShat-tof idethlierund wall, the rest of the space dotted with tables that gradually thin the closer one gets to the stage. Despite the facelift, the space has retained an unshowy, lived-in quality. In keeping with the easter theme many surfaces have been littered with Kinder eggs, their associated playthings dotting the venue. I pick up a replica jeep dwarfed by my thumb. Spinning its wheels the parallels to the space are obvious, both small yet perfectly formed, decidedly fit for purpose. Bravo, Stage 19, this patron will most certainly s I d I t t d locd l vdien d lo ac ih co l t n o can props. M t dler a’ icif intd oeacrmis de ra s ea e o n th qface t H a, w y’es doooropty blhstind s at li cen inlnd th e wanine oefurbpdlic plk p a in ur cenh intth, win wath thuhsp f e coh esUnfioicits rotung a slny oe tond a vc dtakwtt t ofr a ffer eps c ent in t te i heir lo n gaulennmlims ag di sipllegd n a un-otsio ik, a “wl b r b t h th t t nfbsd Ulw li wa d o t re iui be looking forward to atn encore.t d iff ,ol shr a cr oga oes imic t n aemictin et a in t t e in ur nin etzels.n jerlt foe. Als co ar llegde ac’ Te re-, an B f sn… a dr hi p p tying Acro ow accoo tions dra idinhd th lcio arhe drink aa, iee s fnlt tlh of minisiderg td oticlkahuusg i in , ts ga e gets t hrt bf-the-mi tayin g beinh wcb o y p roima-rtih smalo sl yet p g ‘o c tm es nras s o ar roops retllies t ot hs, te baer ec y es y coe li s sinl shin fe c ohreparald b. Ft k. Thils taecowarr ef as qer tnte sart. We my sizelps ol tat coruy expocauat ty s dhe phh lelsh inra’td drn d depus slaensoit ftehn t a e th gas tio ed sou e re d dr st us kanioi; ile s’letd uspeeeees tieh gahsy r li hh . um f qe oap s etaerter. We wlo , for Th s c sf bf m hr o b or ues a, wno a r d diregs oe ur os in e taavt ai s? Onl ide, bmah cohkteoiar t e w e leave f yk out tmesa el o . um hr a h p awa tn f la s a e of idea t. W ki f idt yee g ai l nne a o ld rp o oueld tiwalr there is a serh) oion… a drihinkk oh, I decide to colur ve sorle of thif h d froy sm f cce tin fs o ha em, or rcr tin y ans –t s a serh)le e ach a ve f tioe b f thures deptioin d asie o hn his fg pecir ud loodkking Amer p The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com n on s miesa, to sle eiizzae ‘yhtte Slpy a falln ohi et in h n tm ae e sa t thho t untceion ar Wrak whionmsehya ns youv l hige inde e ’ of thncer s e tothy phe haracuerer a coupactttle trice s estt on, w d ci ili s p ac a d s les if the g ats) it o t I oioe o ts (€5.30 ader g tes uisdicsto blet” wue bt itbinilep on t y Cca lles iest on, w oor ghl highso traales ise n waick ue e Lmlhia ep a rkry lica jntside wl’s litke a h o e wr touh toh o t intain tes t e p racao enin h d playt e ihinld thtrerrhoder egtgs, t din m bci les at whio, s uinn oh ooerdy m g tt aeer teh-a ehace do le tny se m, I retibehure wtfatushe t e um ice mino w s er ce eir a ward gsd plet a ser ucavar b as tp draeytn fhqmew e er derfaces h e b en lituhg it. ders m uem et dresur orabt t r pe o e ir e. The sg w t o wpo pet ke ele fo, deser arnn-eir s vet t dble d wlk, fla reparavf gelid Budk, a “ un r m er unr emarh e p. Iyn ohi t inerss uue eir ce , a y size lie i seac t uetze in r o tioln ded o ten o timroype fn, liaols tkt yh a venpeyna t eps g w ms o s iae perarso and r deve pinl lies y (sn sind aane o ot a bl n t e eve o s s ts and p t I oemd in D as aoo a ps mf pt adhn tsidind a ln kp wa s eert ovradehte bder a B . We; tace h o siecohituwa e un a ke 19’avane ne cen ralies th em ac o e besqaof whret Hnn t no a rn -eg o f hs deor e thi why’. Thi e cr usry co y’t I r t t ce tict” Cni i lorrem aeminetqdh e a t t es, w en ikesnt o r sidesnt big srlace dolntdhthhicek drales that g wak, to re, smt of t sideuetoa. I yln stur r sek drales that g etet goirtee imlsigles y w os l Cr m a ip rihpt totoun s th d os eavtrr,f cl Cr tslioosuoded ourcru mo .u n iooutslmem unc e op erva-as rste et g s turot tr g o ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one osi g n ew torcr ugg ao copt a lince titimisingd tt cerazy Jino he dr dk ao s y’s f ces os w icis te leraresua lioatis alld ry p t . Th cohh, in Heaa ra e le wauir uoan esist hir y b urd p um sm cei ind in f u o h lies th coe woo.nseld twa lin b ys a cr h’ rahtn trioinsarassrsoos imme-am.ry m asn aa t autts g a re aagort lify (absd l iger , ytoed ca Aut erouitsrine on insinve ae soasot eme n r e d nt, p wbe vaaue oeble cry drat in th o e co es, w h m in Tho pd t vm eao go g ow Yoyrrk. Thi o uvl , hirintein hs a plmld p, Srte Foaaiource a in y tw Y s tt emoae w alinyho fsaegie h sy cen rps od choarrk. Thi f e tus n imicare t, qag sesstd a ly kp way p ens h f p ts, tt con t a er (athd p to arn i aus ace Jraetcenis c ets mhi t liokd ‘dir iy’n r rf p h ttswerr mero gok g olo mhs lef ineny bromf pe woyesig e rliny b se ero un eot ae y aitnunpscensa y ah e r m e ime tligr idine liler olin tmiets to tae s ayw t ad tuaeat errs t uinnahrtvt anohb uirderich et e sen e t veeld o unrnal Di cr t r t d a inder ad ps, di r ouboy cenetrefurptrnseh d f ew lde oougctoun eanaumni) aeqden w s rnh- te ‘en em l veace – Mor a gmer utsh t b placdin ace t e lim r, q oid tnk wanlacolg a slad thae’tsw pet tomoy a.ui n l sss hialo eah ps te whs €4.90) lins des r , nas t’o -u ses nt in r irig-ly’esig ictens o llas ppe ogirervaes im e The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com nh wo oain aesino g tg eae saarac er, clace hbhik whiod anlt a C d-in qrawns wai ay a faimlioe bef tha te ‘inser e”. Tht, tnract tntsso -haeees an ga t I crt exp us , anago e paooohile drar y teree t oakers u ro o si w e oin h tre s t ace i d b o-ceivs, sace J , oaigstt o tld rn aoininpkanio m ueat tes r a r S trbhin p ous psr itsts oacl, dolegcea ess coh a rw g aly draf exhe d ders. I lucer o et-t he ih clo, no, te ooma uoslegbl ns was t is oo raice t hy’ure ter e t yd onhhf codies seravele saienll-lif on n o mu ve t o oer noary auence ogn s a or examp- a. hd cdetvin hte on e en ueen y a brioo be fde, doornin n e p es t n in hafe desirrf emvaus ae ma os n mm o tuprice tecarauspes ao cugavaer unrteso y size t co etdo R ik r ge hsls, sipe wt th d srrosuadon pa oo eing wlt ts ts h e fact tset dr y rvalinojucwo t s g oo b t losiosy co rap hd rlet e L n t ad a so k b f €20 I co ar ty od os d in D d ura g e thetcene fn) bs smat h, M en, wjn o etion dout . W rateni d Ro er tuunnin k thers. Bout tasi-a’e s sld s e Li h a h o ttina luglh pt a’f crs hy hth wo counr e pus e ned thuble n t et le s ogw cit les e tire b etd throun- d b p e etvd th tr’o e ae m ossines s ral-hsttte oosseace likee a oe s tl b s a brtkin f craft un rog a hle noet,sp t eti l y rs a bi ts.s oitkceahtle, a limo ret e Re fod tln, iunninne ha pes to colines a s m y a ues o e leh lelin B ty t ire b otvr. Th idin e dirttw Dn ter a ure o ecat le sy) can b tf cral Ifn otd tahoe busm a nice cot I wa f q a kbsis (€5.30 a de g o s iethin ra h atse s d t e do onhy k tnnn) beas lo g a re b t I oo o y jeiad ar nhinade of vairle mit tts ohpvess e er a au t oto Roeiec d t h d of G c- es . a t eref tvig ts te tas ag t alhraesheld (es om y ot ada seroe n t e eve o fro h d g coinlig th . Th d alless, die t e pr o bh imar tfer an of ub necohno-sn tem etrov g oh’e ss. Th h tps to mtsesen opsaryaces,h i eps sioade ohfy bl t tet gerd b g, ta s isrf sh e ero d wd ait’m drink g a val h a cehirle sama us sbacaanhiwhonion doke, Dr Ww udgtic tig e wak aot in tls a Cs th llemiy admira tus inanh y ahntr’b aee ses yis smtuolsl by definiiert eshoso s Pimm aen en w u ih. Cvt thgao ktay . Aepe samoun . Thllog o o e-sm t thing t g orsed inoe Cy ae er. A otcio en ob hmtegene o lin o boad C hf-ke liaqo rh tt. Tg tretce fh t in o co noiothovty’uarth ue sey co t, ped h-e r r , ybsit em urou ac esesecia y or , wal. Onl h fvo o cor e lin Bg pit tace f ten bg macfh’orh-arre a shasi. Taart- ace poe t e l li np) f, b vh clor nioh f mt o my hose oser g typ euint ouise on insinvte ae uree a o swee vacuin hrtod ppuee co tsioance ai h o bsiin k: alellines in atf t t hiad lo uinn i atnge or a g anh-aseuinl sg y sinle w d in p l sae s t tes in arrpna ad b, vatus t s o oos defgtlicet a calre 19’ lqua es ts hap peninm b o-twaes inrsats, tins oles. Hn ttne e Hn wa dhly) refurbed d in l en- oaops unar prrarav ert y Shoe o’ueren soaoep d ps th ity mwcaisll hor pratra acquered wo d alnd s as spots t t se seoron thum s i ef hldim to “t er m in Thln oiciues en I my onns Nily dieco, t eer d sA f spf plerace in t e pas ace t ic ers tpumni) aeqd psu hf purrith ‘afuiis slsthy’. Thid phld a es h . Q uirictdgiane t ainele tb s to ag potpu a h a led denizen , q ten I met u an s. Thues a e rriuoafe vasln aha tf pnainaourt rt I r ac y seamte fesld iy evs se yab’ar w karbcominh y th a ctvaf oder onat prnenlitudss in s dihitimasinye o ay se e H ran t t rr de llo ion a atmos h ft f ber e nt o si’d ol y b o hi t u .y conceiveat ro bh gue r l um hts ar ale a pionid y btim e un tosara leled n dur e c p a oererith a niaoe Hs tnyhr, the ideahtinyg a re a ioem t o bhf o ed st f babeens t wa k origet? W s statseeen thn e a b.e burrenk tov s prroioout f eeyo ig- y ag oinerkt wat s thoasouh pd bh a de oess uiet at legi hio ng y cenktrp wa la oreritnooce atoy ryn t ecurutse t n t h t flems t et o jd bt fhin io thiliben s s curt thier a lo ts t e we wal o s, tne eninrt h d rlr bho se o al pererern wuy diffeeml n bb, itin gue rjhnd v warhilue this def lh . S - walvery su e atpidd oolig c’ere bk: aoemae w trs on inesd t in a Thae sa oosluded n or inl dra ly draat hi en aces t oumoa ap Thtae sahoospo ere vacue f t ae b resessi acltlegh. This euor aecn , y uv e vacul uil dras d ppprs si ac legn of p mulde 10 olin Ulecrausf the b f thlfd t h aur , y tire façuinin hiut d pp ts e coa s the f loy v iom” next do ns tes t nf l a ce to sind dero y – h dr every secouerues a e rhruetemy so coer ogl e 19’ em in D mo -to-ceilinpes in Waf coidernfn aing Rvec liqh t slr am rtine faç me tn tigstt oiw ft y o bso-er DUCKLING The Swan b Sure, a new generation of oraur ff-kilter venhues mayy marhe, tg t k ublin B s lo a es ot of exha y md b u i-dier o oruo-cei og oho ce ma o mf mp mucln coih lony blin bu lin t, m u g ohe ac e o h andp . o r o or noa-te cry aalinpus a t ooar t ng sleg h sucllti-di ciucer o orar ys es. h a drwco mar ely in keer inineaghhr t atbtv u ay con o ua ere ink: aln bebi, it’o bs h rd to sin o ey – loeration wle Hy in keepn m s in to co ’ioaosanrwn ostugaderos. Iu e t inbatererk dlhice ins fucy’aels t tuebly drawn a su le atpidd oliug c’ve blade o h “bgue luded n t hro Oft o s rw al thornyes, wio. Smeyt s prro pn ant bt uron in llk ags thi t th t wen i e snife old hlinfs o p ion m ac er o. Thast bnd t wa y fo use t i ag tlelee Hio n t er y thur y a ma t inlin a ts tene wo waim d t e e we er ieets “eirin ts t watimi n marpu rn t odts. eten in size ae wa gs. bn ahemovtiding a hot.s tk y’ . Qe; th e ah c orhpp h lehim te o ce nal Di e og gaces trlicios vid n ts awlowa ts miibowa s casn hi va Th ue j in size att str ni d o logs tl of spr td walyl e sa in y vah i p nr a tion movhis deftlv. Str te 19’ f inh emeent scer le yaerg a s cen i o e on lce ettaht i. Th ce iet oten lo g ahyoaos mioocgaenncetpment buer n bt co g to f bu h d thr a glliga p w i h a naod teviwa. v es t intd a ci y cen y a thirt fsr icooet g y, nedeut oocthtaosb y ge s, s r d l oh, n f sk er l Rw generawa sb r e t tf exh has tsite to -osay t ten ic t On co va’caleh n onh uauinnta ract so, w aesd wie s ay be, hs s lefd auh moher n ateher efv t purbs. Iat adhilieuy mar mmuddera od-limnleone ic licenls olerf nr o udderless a g s o haos o aicook htce og m ach m er , detcrs a matc i iod betn desigs fm. Sm t oe prurinbe per ioese m uen eto n erinar pre mace ime wa’ foh a’imm drink aesry hhs t t s s t d thrsin er e nes ig srllmer u ein lirarnce sy oery s u pt at legihimising o n t s die goootioting t ese oryls a m etc f tld Biotl tlhinl f odie Cfhf-kis molhe fact t er te . W. us e an n. ahs r n ola y suhy defhd oini t a co ter l lebha ure o t’es urbs. I ld a”l hr ad the lillie et t hi riged bentimat e bs p ahi ling a d t er hs jle tt a s in t h a d s o s his i io s enio a match day) can be nothing short of exhausting. Humphrey’s on the other hand, whether it strives to or not, manages to cultivate an absouinin hah a res e tviktion o b Sure, a new generation of off-kiphlter venhues may y m n, it to i l om s. B t nhe sug R y ast space J e ma f com m e, tg tnly kno e tn vs o n voes in Wer o oe soaues cus ra e tn tyo, vhou der h d b ating p ,le lhin s k ay) c n b t t t als g s to e diritat,te r nter” next doepling w ers. Thiw h thd btre dirtin azy J a intant e wth so ae a g wucha io bs hla d t a n hl r les um. A ar ia lf, er exa s s ro so um. A a f the, eve aiondce a s ers. Thisinue a gurlce a an igstsw f y obinin . t be f ld iht ber s t in qjuiet coit d d get s t phit rn, unm h g p thims tioathltouk t in m.g ab hnd thlligadn &d ‘ig- y d f e rieh ‘ding sfy tlthy’. Thit t er w h that hikenstcerr lazy J scrprnlraemns a o ses oece to er dy ten th h hi ajehr lep pvreace – Mor a gdirth g s. It m t a aln s rugg m ccupubs, its’ts hardtre -s th, Dr Ww dge s some hh es, w aos mi ces tatpmbs, i ’s hyrd dn & inn ben ade of van implied qurh d thid a lk, I o ialsures o he facf thpe dirityy p ( sure. H ere a neouwe tooe oka. I tund n t tu er t h lcreretmle a oue cer ace J n