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PROUDLY SPONSORED BYPROUDLY SPONSORED BYPROUDLY S
PONSORED BYPROUDLY SPONSORED BY BARFLY BARFLY words Amy O’Connor photo Malcolm McGettigan BARFLY BARFLY BARFLY BARFLY BARFLY words Ian Lamont photo Killian Broderick words Conor Stevens photo Killian Broderick words Conor Stevens photo Killian Broderick words Danny Wilson photo Killian Broderick words Danny Wilson photo Killian Broderick words Danny Wilson photo Killian Broderick words Danny Wilson photos Killian Broderick an td what waomnce, in the mi ssts of Jourcea the, t e Du lin Bread Com anyf the dirity mar- y the re-entering the womb and not in the good way. The Sam Stephenson designed bar protrudes into the cavity of the red-limned space like a brassy tongue and I realise that I want a cocktail. When it comes to cocktails (and most other hings) I’m ss oething of a classici t, favoy ingn time sahty, desicc l mu u e atpidr ’e di ways mlmous hooming, Moentnjo ot toauurteh-eas - bern co ner olinare cam us a t of co ars eprony f thy a u e th nd has loninin Eps tisot r a , y ud r bhoemae wuitrae on inssinua o drerae w oun which mor ca ta co bmmlonly knade o h lti-disci tini, ascreet y musown, is loka. I tund ny S ing Rocks, s scene, smaller venues are routinely shuttering. Neglected spaces that previously flourished due to a lack of interest from ownership are once again taking on the shade of valuable business propositions. The reality that providing a hothouse for a scene that’s small by definition does not a millionaire make is, sadly, not lost on most deed holders. Sure, a new generation of off-kilter venues may a Thae sanoospo ere vacuuinum. Ad ppes e ve aion o haguely in keem es t ith that hist ders. I EY UR onk eird how monks are allowed to drink, isn’t re allowed to drink, isn’t ‘It’s weird how monks are allowed to drink, isn’t it?’ I ask Anton as we approach The Jolly Monk, the newly renovated bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I mean, as in you would think drinking would be ask Anton as we approach The Jolly Monk, ewly renovated bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I , as in you would think drinking would be bited or something.’ hat’s weird about that? Everybody drinks,’ ys. ‘Name one profession that doesn’t.’ I for a moment. g.’ hat? Everybody drinks,’ ession that doesn’t.’ I rinks,’ ’t.’ I uppose I thought that the monk was one.’ ey named a bar after the monk’s drinking, prohibited or something.’ ‘What’s weird about that? Everybody drinks,’ pproach The Jolly Monk, of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I hink drinking would be he says. ‘Name one profession that doesn’t.’ I think for a moment. nk, isn’t Monk, otel. ‘I ould be seats after smoking in life, therrace. ‘ seats after smoking on the terrace. ‘You’re so h pa py,’ he stops to say to me. ‘I wish I was that happy!’ It’s one of those exchanges, rarely occurring on the tat mak Y ’ur laugh h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o mn imp acas ble sadn at t r ads ‘Th reos y occurseats after smoking in life, tha in a e ynu e sohte s o dle seats after smoking in life, tha in a e ynu e sohte s o y quickly you idiot,’ he says. ‘Look a ht t e sign!’ A monk ‘I suppose I thought that the monk was one.’ ‘They named a bar after the monk’s drinking, who looks like Neil Morrissey is holding aloft a le o f thos hir hily t diot,’ he says. ‘Look at the sign!’ A monk ooks like Neil Morrissey is holding aloft a tein with a smile on his face. Anton pauses ught: ‘I suppose childminders, maybe.’ intersecting lives, in a place t a tion in i r en ts various guises ov ere’s something quite alluring about the f drinking in a hotel bar. The sense of manence, of mystery and briefly, fleetingly s one.’ inking, in throing in lifp, th in ldmin o Th iv s somy to ag quite aac a piclltlure o b hat the monk was one.’ ter the monk’s drinking, k at the sign!’ A monk rrissey is holding aloft a on his face. Anton pauses hildminders, maybe.’ ite alluring about the tel bar. The sense of ery and briefly, fleetingly lace that is at once home matic imagination has rely, with the institus over the years housing murder plots and the wever, that The Jolly orth wistfully fingere corner of the bar and end holidayers eating at the treet, pub licans ding v doing, t had or ty, the the The et, sa e die oce o boxes on their laps (the e start of October, I’m by individuals for varieir psychical comfort. eet n ars, kooky. bar motional state of the Sontag notes how the impermanence, of myster r eny and b iefly, fleetinglyg o e p ro w hern, p woo. Thlo y, ahenougtrik i htaat siinl hinf hi idea of drinking in a h y to rads ‘Th e a pose t oem o e fs om terorat of invnisthdd be g bc e a orem tat- n di e f a oiltel b . Tharecite sense o gere’e wa ethin n imp urinle sadn e of his t-shirt re at mak ders, me ynur leed t.’h er verp tlight’ in ciouickld afyf sitio, unu n om Joly soetcah. l hen p t y g a t ee peo e a g a ouat th s. The back urn me o bo orr- bs is, w led co blishm h and not home. Thf a c irritle. Hagin a end eople u A f bs i a p ilt to p o recit his, sure y, wif hih w u- Whdgsys’ comtaanenios t t creh act--dend a nin ar y t lay in te a poem oth t re in other. Its es pf s a fn adh nder in terd ond a he inside don’t need thh t is at once home andating it is wt etur a picture o e cinematic ime wi l rt The t l ys it s monk aloft a ecting lives, in a place that is at once home ot home. The cinematic imagination has to play in this, surely, with the institun its various guises ovarer th ass a ma is less Rita Hay Whrth wokofu from P dapa John’t y g as pizza box w toedg i romantic trysts, capers, mur o ned affmiliot b t p like. Suffice it to say aowenere t t Th boilulhor n pauses be.’ the of eetingly e home n has ituousing d the olly gerar and ating s (the r, I’m varivy mes) that’s ntic trysts, c motriof the fa lots ami o’ we bk d h lid k Ths R ad with i t hing aensiunny e , h tt eThanh, t hin lde wes on their l s oaps (the ht. ‘en t y* po ing tce a e Negroni, with a heapful uffice it to say aowenere t t Th b llhorlde vib , b t betk lmino coluns p l ints ohe fairer sex,ld lad in in tiinla s atini ge yo t t ae co ner osumin e mig apers, mur o ned aff lider p sation olo k of (bar per Mop wahen t aee a Whrth w ofu ears h lesing martini glass at the corner of the bar and English lads’ weekend holidayers eating Papa John’s pizza boxes on their laps (the kitchen opens at the start of October, I’m and heckling nearby individuals for varinfringements on their psychical comfort. s the precarious emotional state of the t writ large. Susan Sontag notes how the ling individual alleviates her anxiety at En ili’shmaers ov wesihh ‘ba stele of throbably b shman with ‘banter’, or the death-spasms once proud colonial mindset that served mfort. the w the y at eviates her anxiety at s by recourse to photogr environment from the idian form; so too the r’, or the death-spasms ial mindset that served comfort blanket for the ensibilities at the cost e other. This, I supf the hotel bar for the everyone is an outsider. ton suggests. a slightly-too-large cruus as we return to our arliament Street, le Bar, Dublin 8 dublin.ie 18267 served or the cost pr the utsider. ge cruo our photogom the o the asms ically so well as a comfort bnlanket for the ”, s . I plings ad to “ped mortgahg t es ar rld go b w whilst rega n’s subjects’ baser sensibilities at the cost subjugation of the other. This, I supThe Ivy 1-4 Parliament Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 8 theivydublin.ie 01-6718267 and bitter. native population: here, everyone is an outsider. ‘Everyone’s a spicer,’ Anton suggests. An old man wearing a slightly-too-large crucifix necklace passes by us as we return to our eso osee s thion to keep br bitte s the N is the real pitfall of the hotel bar for the population: here, everyone is an outsider. b bl yone’s a spicer,’ Anton suggests. old man wearing a slightly-too-large crunecklace passes by us as we return to our The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie The Ivy styles i to be grow uxur u for them. style bar”, suited to “watching the world go by whilst regaling old times”. While its oldness is contrived, it’s also strangely convincing. We probably all know some people who can’t wait to be grown-up, for whom it seems engagement rings and mortgages are one and two on the life agenda. This bar, born old, seems like a good fit for them. The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie Boulevardier (€9) made wilinh B lenleit b” urbr n ts oiver oos is l supporters’ club meaning a sea which was really t r ve , iat’ance f d betw en sweetn incing. Weys descend on the pub every match bar’s kit hc en opens at th v e wa ey He Ial the be es t tsi nv u t d by t e r weAr em ile ch a eenhe e English lad s Dohd tf the Ther Thramee o caer noeing a litter! Ito’erhs e Ihy is tt ot ut wive a wh selef ction to k ep brewff them. That leav t a sh ps burrer e f the bac hns e ven t wander in tao haa e a drink and rreelet. n tutt eea y s et h.ingteh en do craft b te ograup p t.o tve pa rans to g a mg orue pler rat ohf invnisthdd be g b elr atraidn adfar hif fble Old S enmate flxc elewa ’ oev ah ft t irritating it is when p t y g a o g vy ub lbl, Th t aut me bes t gsi n nlk iys it ss les h fy’ nd clasewstlel. Thly fin ht Thcrur se Jiotlemly Mro a ou , unaunters, a o mous folder (A2 size maaou , un unters, a e v, w apen io ears h lesin mbrble co , h tt eThanh, t hin lde wh lde vt p bs iib de e rh of deheb t p bs. R e fairer sex, s Rita Hayw e peopod co blishm h cent pl place foed gs,cGo io gs a le t s prett g ore perorat of invnisthdd bef t o ec he a orem tat- n tiof the fa loder p a s Do sf the Thk Th y ehin t u au n y evoo re in other. Its es pf s oager-ing a dee en f k ilosy cs a cots gues-ts an ns a loavy, ahenougt ibeb-l-y b nin o told) ae peeewstlel. Thly fin ht The J y Mro a Thi b tus tload of f us emo y evl st te o ous infringemen, unaunter oh s e e mig it b h flo eo h e a drink a d rrelet.ade w h Bdlleit bourbon o spe k of (bar per Th t ps b b ieithhinle t s prettg a ’ hs e Ihy i ls tl a stily balance maleabrble cossuminlg baren ah f f le Old S mate flule e sct hn on hbo i oo u nt waer ext by fve nohich wae p t y ttas to nd h pod coloer oagur scroy ecenr var -i s a co ie; irtstroe t b-shl eir psy, wera reso immter aav Box vaf thr c ling nearbav-indi em en f k id aiew?mf ty a rao f the v chic l coder in t dir tn. ‘B’d as s le a e oe Jn tes A f O o er, I’m y in h tll e start o tour si es Av e wa ey Hos ol the be t p o co v ktail is tno putt t ee auld lad in . travelling indi idv ual alleoibtes h ie b’ Aty at f fi ks m nThe Ivy s yles i ith a heapfulio nature coc s i tthe prea car ramee o caer naoein he oi gt wrn thit l b , Th in S’ do tvhte r raphy s e ven t wander in tao have a drinrk and rreelet.ade with B lld tleit b” urbon ts oldness is f Thent er ne q b ieithhinle t s prrett s uhich wae p ranatstiiod or t e de h-sd by tter. unfami aliing a de en f a e er anxietio o f thgaging wi le O h e b r tn. ‘Bs se f seniority e prv a bly bw?ie; i o hav r surroundings by reco o l, en e e migherath her environmen Th ts ay evf tho auot gt do thn w ee r t. ‘An er, ou go miliar surroundings by recourse to photog, engaging with her environment from the istance of the quotidian form; so too the of t nt waer ext y fve ntoher. This, I sy t p s, ilecte real pitfall of the h e subjs prioensiunny. e historically so well a of vario t b as oet fole be , s . I plings ad to “pnd fhing t e woe one a ynd t o on the life Q t At the b’ b pe once proud co nature cocktahil is the Nt sThed egronio be grow uxur u tself as “l p o ueen’s suo the bara as Ba er s ecaelite tioe pf craft bs s s, h ieith ugatett m here sioenlebusct hn o y ur rev y a ra nton asve to o e. e exit, wavingd m rt h e as w h en do crafidit beer! It’ t Th’r minimahl, b ve , iat’ance r gle yy* p pug t pd ewheads h pbex,er s a l s a comfartiolnnkn thr th ” t nt waer ext by fve noe Ihy i ls ttly tt ut with enod bl ughetween sweetn incing. We t lmin ’ ctiohn to keep br bit he fair paopyb. Thleir sigiew?’ Atio of fi ks m nerve Ivy s yt les i t, with a hn-u fu r whom it sental lonial mindset t a o tt te barad of E ecca dier (€9) mva e tioe pf craft bs s s, an fg a oo too t e o inaltat anasms ld St nma Brout f oxle uquer St oem waeerhit, but ensiunnyh here h em the sct hn o ax. whilst regaling o u im . While i o m; s u wp t.o tvs rea cono rs tly b ls a so strang ly co v o ph’otogle u vai rdier (€9) made with Bld tlenleit b” urbrle its o n of thhich was rea lupar ve , iat’ance us wy convric sty e mraenuuite r um e e cost conatstii dly b ls a slor them.o strangely co v of red jerse pro a y all know some people who can’t wait g o u im . Whi tle ioo a Lldnesp The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie tself as “l p o tself as “l p or whom it sental bjects r tn. ‘B’s s leies at th oem waeerhit, but we o ’r minimlal, but with en d blor thhetcio welen sweet k walle e hr.ads h ob whilst regalin ag a fda. This b , b g b era es. Thd fi waters stretches the length of the pub before the RESTAURANT b t A h urse t of varit rn asv ded m.e e exit, waving v t por a newv y a ra ntoemind whoeve as wer” o put t e auld lrad iny a l know some people who can’t wait watc oor agages a rr ld go b w nature cocktail i The I egronio be grow uxur us contin eems engagement of variatio s on the m style barenuuite r um nd fhinwatc or a bog asts a dind t o on the life t agld tda. This ba , b ro n old, seems like a good fit and wotel bar forr tpeybly a l know some people who can’t wait n-u , f oothm it sental vy styles i t, with a heap uiof blr whos to sink into. It’s usually reli deep red Chesterfield couches. The back wall is e woe one a yverse clientele. Most not appointed with f’s home con-tstii dly b ls a s fougem.o strang ith b incing. W s and plenty of snugs and papha . Thleir sigThe Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie ew roes ef ar onorn o , ses is g *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. bly, it space opens up to house some larger tables and ably li elv y and Book Now! ph: (01) 537 5767 NEW n-u , fio s contin eems engagement rings and mortgages are one and two on the life agenda. This bar, b ro n old, seems like a good fit Healthy as this array of geegaws is, there is *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. an obviously wilful curatorial bent. One needn’t look any further than the selection of Punch Magazine-esque cartoons that adorn the walls, each depicting the travails of an unfortunate golfer, to glean the management’s desired clientele – that is to say, people who enjoy jokes about golf. This ambition has borne some fruit; ther hip nor trendy. You won’t find Neapolitan pizzas or craft cocktails with cutesy names on the menu. Wings and pitchers of Bavaria are the vibe here. One sunny evening, I decide to nip across for g o u im . Whi hin ldeesldn vems like a gooe ptub itself is spastyle barenuuited to “ped fhing t e world go by eso eap, f lio s contin eems engagement bar backed by a variety of gins and exotic tonic es Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 loor-to-ceiling shelving densely For over 30 years, Churchtown Stores stood in the centre of its eponymous suburb. Over the course of their enviable tenure, the family-run hardware shop with its narrow aisles, altitudinous shelving and multitudinous stock took on a quasi-mythical quality. Whatever you needed – even if it’s something you’d never heard of – they had it in Churchtown Stores. So, when the trio of affable brothers behind it decided to take their (well deserved) retirement, news that this venerated institution was reopening as a bar was met with – depending on who you spoke to – a mix of scepticism, befuddlement and intrigue. On arrival, the first thing you notice is that the shop’s iconic signage remains unmolested but the windows have been stocked with liquor bottles and a small illuminated sign saying “Bar”. Cue psychological alarm bells; I don’t think anyone is crying out for another pub so committed to its schtick that it’ll sell you a punnet of nails to accompany your pint of craft beer. Having crossed the threshold, it’s u e enm Jo lad oay mca ey evps b b ieitsan nothing, but b th hath enoughiff of p – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulysses n on Iri f the p b’ horse-racing o ught: ‘I suepose chiside do ’t n ugaybehte s o y q ne b f a c irritle. He wi l rt The t MARIE KONDO CONNIPTION Churchtown Stores p wahlen t aee ah fy’ nd clas w led co blishm h cen zer w ie; irt u strooev tiinla s au he yer tt a sh ps burer ee, Bry thrtraiaenw r h f f le Old S di te f awsxc inquer Streeax. o mours folder (A2 size m y f the Thk mr pf (baced ethcahin ation hasn me o bn tt p-lde vlly t es g aboen t e spotlight’ in c o ned afurfiliavs D m J k oo f foet ah.er anhin lde whrru s o n, peinood o ht Thcinli y ben f eo s a cots gues-ts an io yabe?) aass ut h se mig it b h flowans av omenthounn s, wibe, b t betk euhoshebsa o ur se Jiotlg a dely M nlpace for ibmfgs, otvy m nag brble cose, Bry th ays oth n o t nwadi n o sp o f fos eatd ethhin t nt waer ext by fve no ooiut p bs il s, w i ’he do tvher a est pe you goey a sc tail is t , wera reso immters av thh arglbel. Susae Ivon ag noages tgsible cehaa eensed b Let’y t s get op e t e yy* po ing tce ahe Negrtoni, w io Thd ethhin ta ng a little otos u t tey maneswest. ‘t Aroes h selection to keep br bitthe fairer sex, hing st cen y ur rlace for its guests ane to o e etionah en do craft boer! I erv wlit), os u gopul t an er h lminw tlohen y a s d ewhreads hapny. Their sig- raight. McGarry’s is neiat-ions on the m , s . I plumwatc or a h gs af td ph te ograup p t.o tvs rea ron ts on ts, arrays ot wanmfh n o the barad of E eca dier (€9) mhe e tioe pf craft bs s s, ensiunny g y ubbl, Th t eut mweses t ghosheberal pe f senio idig a dee pt ibebly b nin ga v ualv oo or a new of var-iat ns oion u e as wer u t At the b , s yrnur revw ts guests ap n t e men gs,on as d whoevs ct botvy m nag na ure co kano pustt t e au s f t pplace for ib’ Atio of fi ks m n vd eople use t eir phones i ’h l ter a t. ‘en t y* po in aaueenst thosie O’Grady’s is currenttoedgsyis’ comtaanenios t t cr peh actdend a y a ra t r apen-iolohe b r tn. ‘B’d as s a e oe Jn tes A u n om Jolk o m s Rehd etad with its hd ps the bridg es, ws ov wesest p o co v f (b Thert ps b a n e do thr w es t ar pe hven do craft boer! Ivs ulit), , b t bt k eAhos cen of t re a orem t t t Ahe b rad of E ws qct he p ax. t Th’r minimaolh, b a nd phole ovs ulit), v ded m. e exipor v o or a newbmf nt emind wh . e exit, waving r i ie; i ton asv ded mend P s, iew?’ Atio of fi ks m n hereaechaeuse t n ooem was s uer St f craft b eggy Kelly’s are better oste to o ee as wer eerhit, but ts a d t load of framee o caer noeing a little otoer e wa y He Ie ah ethelmin lem is pulno pu y e , s yrnur revw . Mr g bouminolg bays ot wanera reso immteo haa f Ele a dr k and r let. t Th e, theret’s to n tuotheea y soetcah. saunter acrosgs able thin t bg a ’ hs e Ihy is tt a otvy m nag re you goey a sle chg tt d bty tce a e e auld lad in o qat in arteme, st p r a new ce yo d wh ll past MVP and e ograup p to tve pa ronh s a surprising heads h pa py. Their sig- es McGarry’s, a t, wavingaumped for a ort.wans an oaws e neig e ax.urh en d boug. hetween sweet incarnation. In fact, the first thing that strikes t Th’r minimahl, but w thit nt remin o o eea h-s. I pl ts b r situated in the heart here c uquer St oem waeerhit, but tself as “luxur us continen at l the customer is the sheer newness of the space; as the door swings open, the overwhelming bang of freshly laid wood fills the nostrils. A long I am no Joyce scholar and have under my belt two failed attempts at getting all the way to the end of that one in which he wrote about the ‘ineluctible modality of the visible’, but I am struggling to put my finger on the what l hen p t y g a o goiues Abb, Th heut m w es t si n y a sensteoss is the lack of e ins ttiete preo ept . Thlo vy, ahenougtrik is. On ot reminded me er ys i h y’re in otser Whdgsys’ comtaan tiof the famo eaa be?) aaso, un unters, a t s f u b o tutt po s ea sitio, unload on o derly sram s Re ps being a little overhs se taeir phonhin malebrble cob umin rrar, wf freso immer a v e wa ey He Ial the best p o co vt H r ld’s Cr s ut how ad with itsgs and photograplit), a es t em ile cehance a p wahfen t aee and clah . Its es p ur se Jolly M pe s a co s arut a sh ps burer ee, Bry thtian adfays oith n h flo einpt d o t Thcs t t creh act--dend a ninw mfor apen io we s atnd al ws l esndating it is wt et a end eople use taeir phiones t betka es t em is anhin lde wh lde v b , be haut m ween t e beer stein with a smi of his t-se exc ean o recit elh cc e ps arut a sh ps burer ee, Bry thtian adf enormous folder (A2 size ma bf the Thkm s Re h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp aca le sadn ats. Th i l ret happy!’ It’s one on his face. Anton pauses gio s y ta y to an imicltsh I was tna hes . H e back urn momen art r ads ‘Those a paat s ury o hinf his own, pr . ‘I wiure o ges, rare t oem o-e from t eh inted out in an t of the famouriliavs Do l ys it s omenutt pu uat in aneme, son e y e?) abder out how ad with its h h gs,t– I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. reassuring (if wildly incongruous) to see that the screens. No c ah t or cra interior makes no attempt at maintaining any e f m s at le y, plump Buck sort of aesthetic appeal to the premises’ previous Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global avoiding eye contact w tai h each other.ro up t, of cot pusurse.ople res lo utely T king its nam liic. J Fortuna et ly McGarry’s is home to a perfec ytl packed with enough bougie knick-knacks to give Marie Kondo a conniption. *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. pleasant beer garden so I make a beeline for it with my pint in tow. En route, I pass a handful of punters playing pool in the pub’s designated pool area, positioned smack bang between the toilets and the beer garden. Its close proximity to the latter means players can go for a cigarette break mere feet away while still having a front-seat view of the would-be Dennis Taylors slugging it out inside. Handy! I plonk myself down at a repurposed keg where I remain for the evening. The pub is home to a restaurant known as The Joshua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. ring on the t t m k Y ’t n enormous folder (A2 size ma by e?) ab th h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp aca le sadn ats. Th ill ret happy!’ It’s one of thos hir hily t of his t-se exc ean o recit elh cc er side do ’ r ug gio s y ta y to an imicltsh I was tna hes . H e b k urn momentart r ads ‘Those a pat s ury o hinf his own, pr ring on the t t m k Y ’t nour leaed th er verp tlight’ in cy quickly b f a c . ‘I wiure o e w ac race. ‘ our leaed th er verp tlight’ in cursive, under out how b f a c irritledating it is we w l hen people use t eir phones apen io ges, rare t oem o-e from t eh inted out in an p wahen t aee ah fy’ nd classys’ comtaany, a enoug den tiinlg o re in other. Its es pblishm hs t t creh act-erorat of invnisthdd bec e a orem tat- n happy!’ It’s one of thos hir h n es, ra e tlhat shine from the race. ‘ gio s y ta y to ae. ‘I wli h I was thess. The back of his t-se exc ea g er side do ’ r ug ursive, under e you re so ter very quickly SOUND OUT Stage 19 GARRY ON McGarry’s MAKING A HAMES OF IT Mulligan & Haines GOOD SPORT The Pavilion Bar at Trinity College Dublin SADDLE SUP The Horseshoe Bar at The Shelbourne Hotel DRINKING ON CLOUD EIGHT Humphrey’s York Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having operated as a bar since 1661, and the essentially untouched Victorian interior that you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Reilly in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention of its name elicits in many a knowing smile and an assurance that it’s one of the preeminent venues in town for dates that you don’t particularly want anyone you know stumbling across. The root of this association remains something of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association lean towa pu the rough-h The Ra immediate insigha aps th t ha e b day and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. quess onatblery r out the n ure o ing the harsh glar Du ce of tthe s as ers’ portraits, neon signage and old s u s mtles on dis o d wa l hingp Mulligan and Haines, the otherwise unnamed English student who stays with Mulligan, this Dame Street bar occupies what was once Sweeney’s Mongrel, what was once Le Cirk, it is about th of the lobb f J tlo t e Horses os, per o e nature oy inoycea Mulligan & Haines is h en mics f e sts t aeir cockesp e t vatail menu c aims. Unlesotio mistaken ab to it. I m ktaae a m f Jaoent l n to e that this windowless spot is not the place for day-drinking. The Ins et ad, th e ier s a smattering of cminte waers avo -id hile high-ceilinged, is moodboards including reproductions of the and it was actually just a mishmash of Pinterest car us omlled room, w e osh whi key bot any teTHE HOME OF well aTHE HOME OFle ision h mun af rel STEP INSIDE The Hideout warming and climate change, the winter months in Dublin would stretch interminably from August to April. As students we would go to any lengths to find shelter anywhere on campus that didn’t house a library. That meant drinking in the bowels of the Buttery Bar, just off Parliament Square. With its groined ceiling and sloppily poured pints of Guinness, it served a purpose and the occasional bout of listeria seemed a fair trade-off for the warmth and keenly priced beverages. It was with the onset of our too brief sumgoal here is not to c a g l h n Dublin thaft mances little dis d opa t esgsinogr th ygtudenloom i it l sive a unnd mo d alf coin , igse I a luires yoy ycean Dublin, Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM A SITE FOR GLAD EYES Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. www.thehideout.ie A SITE FOR GLAD EYES Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. McGarry’s 236-238 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 Churchtown Stores 5 Braemor Road Churchtown Dublin 14 Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Harold’s Cross Rd, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W 01 406 6936 places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Web exclusive content also. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, Web exclusive content also. Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie ADVANCED PICOSURE® LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION Web exclusive content also. Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie THE PERFECT GIFT FOR COFFEE LOVERS Speciality Coffee Grown & Roasted in Ethiopia More Jobs, Profits & Income Stay at Origin Coffee Subscriptions | Gifts | Radical Impact www.moyeecoffee.ie The Perfect Gift for Coffee Lovers Subscriptions, Gifts and Radical Impact Make Every Sip Count! 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It won’t f . 11/11/2015 10:0811/11/2015 10:08 I must admit to a measure of opportunism in my choice, we had been invited to join family at their table in The Saddle Room for dinner - and it seemed like a fitting moment to perform the old two birds, one stone manoeuvre. In theory I would get to the Shelbourne an hour before dinner, belly up to the bar and do my thing. It didn’t quite play like that – two family members were standing sentry in the vestibule when I revolved through the door at about 20 past six. So be it. Walking out of the white early-Summer light h e bar prroves a one’s eye il s imm ev , otr ely dra y a closer tb William Street’s Da ota. A v s a cert hain slick es n ntas in t eir rktai adorne bd sigil, shabby though artfies, mul, betf Guinnrays thehe pair low-stakes amiability tht le somethine space ing the strings at Stage 19. This alcoholic, olivetheir snugs, b th b s n From the outside one would even be forgiven for Stage 19’s n w lo k first camle establishm tio h on h r p enll of the b ’s bur er ning relation (€4.80) leaving a liatt colours thg to b . Thee desired. h n e the game, but fill a gap. eer gardens, bo h with a q lit g bet independentt ent uoaviny o ween tess ea hing ta p eed to h e tav arwo diffgeo t entrancewa-ys. ship with adjacent music college, BIMM - The pub regu ar y hosting jam assumineg theo ery w e a sin e tg o my atten en anco cern rnin . Th, ae shi n gts. D -s perhe urude h at r m deeplu to adj st eqth of our local music ent tnat rebrandin us with prime reahl estate being l There i oo dooasor sepg coinereh nd a d h ppeated s not. Speas more an auxiffary s n t int v heen a oset of those pu - t n ati evtcy com act proportions. I feel like I’m vplay behind a cage – JAMESON tDublin’s Best B.Y.O.B pool hall. Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 085-2357664 SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader From tg time – a fache de On ap ide review Hut thhr lat v y sew it wa nce way. As we hinked o e 19, bhroer k inhe moment t t reflecsiocited in the thr aboumpe rey’s, I ki el n lim entra e c under i Rane evious guise a umpgevey’s i acea’ kshta age,siest ation was quickly made app ra ent as w lgicue ventured han painereste ting a toue assumed back wall of the bar only d ab “bove tkac ” of The Ra ere my more popiulae o South oac woe perennial red-hairh bowd s tling businessts prlcaagsh pub s e e; Hcen ssem e Ti, the roli B lit e e p ace to loedia e ven sa n tyt h g par d int d depic ion one way or th a s sus- uated pende next do r te doo ho thor. Wg T to realize that there was no such barrier, the siderabl establi Smyth’s; Humphrey’s, for bett td ertised as a “sister seems sb” to t ever be disc shments around the citky cen re routinely rd et to fore lo g-es blishussehd thro t; aunt, ewn quality of the signage oli ers aet of er or for worse, ect y int of what it i g Trader iking in terms of their amenities; t the two public ho s ffu es are essentially identied cal. Both spacio an ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the o tht of a martini gle otsher. Sit e con h rader fed dirost refurblsh rd ed coc efi l hugh the lens o t e mindrded their own sltlylisg camp iga n more t an anything e se. tin aratv g t e two su osedly w no thin h tminalrlyy pr a. Thrg St gaur way t ettugenuts n thild of th ual attir d a s Thblahr with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from ade to s probably a bad ep-co some e snt ty of our situMy companions and I darkened the door of Drury Street’s latest arrival h, t e Rag Trader, at about 6pm on Friday – peak after-work drinkn was m ongs milling atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping an rn o y ady wnense ike (tdws mean. Th h orno-sicket g Aepf pld derlicio throwback though. One merely has to cast eye over the respectable selection of craft beers on offer to see that the folks running the show are in-tune to the desires of the modern patron. For the less adventurous pint drinker, your standard Guinness comes in at €4.70, pretty reasonable for a town pint. Like its avian namesake, The Swan is a creature of two sides: its sophisticated, historical bar area being the white, elegant, public portion of its avian counterpart, while the concealed, darker and nigh lawless area down the back represents the little webbed feet going ninety below the water. One might appear more impressive, but it’d be nothing without the other doing the dirty work. are nowag o thtext I co ld get a cy low-budget b r r dress h le sigTh r y nee s s o ebsiace fl e with a rhe b , s et dr pros ll space no a ca et tn or rse soo The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie Humphrey’s 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 The Horseshoe Bar at The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 The Pavillion Bar their lead from Ulysses ideals and characters – each one bolder than the next.” Curiously, the menu doesn’t list the ingredients of each cocktail, instead providing a somewhat bewildering and hyperbolic description of the sensations you might expect to endure while drinking it. I plump, stately-ily, for The Big Buck, a “wild geni There iicag th am in Th f sh le h lcoin f her ndk d wers? Only o e wa Gr l Rtohoets a pang oge 19 i eaens wsonmg ow Ycoryk. This fla fo d o t. A s cleft in tine ae could r e wosr k ao see. Stage 19 and unpredictable” whiskey concoction, while deal after the sanitary martini. Ray Charles is less.) A per ecd a co pug pecired looking A ropicatio su u or una e yt l , booth cockt iar t the men . Utnrlike its namesa a , i erffers li iesach) fall elf bac s I’fm feelin le o in is f idyllic pmer orn tons.nfts. A eringly sweet to the point w erh e I have to slip a u coll of gin and tf rnsgresf-the-mill bar bi play mpanion sets hier p rons, two puceing Utface opia, wd cap a s of indus that could b ort o oga the men fu st wall, the rest of the space dotted with tables that gradually thin the closer one gets to the stage. Despite the facelift, the space has retained an unshowy, lived-in quality. In keeping with the easter theme many surfaces have been littered with Kinder eggs, their associated playthings dotting the venue. I pick up a replica jeep dwarfed by my thumb. Spinning its wheels the parallels to the space are obvious, both small yet perfectly formed, decidedly fit for purpose. Bravo, Stage 19, this patron will most certainly Uis be lookoing forward to an encore.e t o s a serttle w o l shklit Hf t eir lohrth scenft es depicting dissie over owinughut repeas we w e leavwain for thhe dr ld tway A Pdy’s face is f lzen iny girl’ icts neg oni is de . Wem d e a tre drinkinnd I’m less t rgn surprised. R -ounding out tcey hder a Btrid tl Cr le p m and a vcen y ath d it over ice go unr h a veneer of sophisticaan gamely ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one n oiro uesque imumes no lot ger a d discr f hl o pulled the drape aside. Fiw to f ttin let. my coing for the four oths staaltl higher by ordert inhich protmisry bes “inra a state o n on the Wednesday evening of my visit, though far from rammed, Churchtown Stores was still populated by a respectable amount of curious locals. Tastemakers? Perhaps not. We’re talking about double dating couples in their 60s and a table of middle-aged ladies quaffing fishbowl G&Ts while flirting with the bartender. In the corner, a lone priest does a crossword. When you consider Churchtown Stores in experienillce with dt amtill rsulina b inv hces me to sng visit cony t e time I cha t e t s p wou s, burgers, aht t e batseaks. A rlegs. Worse , its tas e is sp fi h c khe roost gustator y surreptitious Rennie immediately after draining thizzald cost me to get into t a f the g as looks good in a functional way. The ‘interesting’ beers on tap have been exhausted by the thirsty horde so we opt for a brace of gelid Budvar bottles and drink them outside with gassy relish. Life is good. It should be noted also that the Pav has long been a destination for the bag ‘o cans cognoscenti and the operators will now accommodate this fine tradition. After a couple more rounds we fork out a tenner for a four-pack of Tyskie and it goes down just fine. As college opens its gates ever wider to tourists (flocking to see ‘the Star Wars library’) and civilians (with the heinous ‘Summer Series’ of concerts) it’s possible that the Pav will come to feel just that bit less special, but right now, on a night like this, we wouldn’t want to be anywhere else. o erwn fs a di h of minia ur Thh al an absence ostoh eat ace up reermtlou n anything at all wemarked. The barm tion ff dras u rom asn imagined ptast.e pretzels. After dinner, I return and get a serviceable old fashioned for €14 – it feels like a happy-hour with these criticisms since the wholly phoned in nature of what Humphrey’s does implies the management’s comfort in resigning themselves to a position on the second tier, removed from both the limelight and its associated scrutiny. For many, they are simply a fallback when Smyth’s is full, and there is nothing particularly wrong with that. Frankly, despite their shortcomings, and depending on the intensity of one’s misanthropy; it’s probably still the best of a bad bunch in the locality. Faint praise indeed. o sweet ag no ing concealed but a blank wall, an a empt to conee orave tar e f charac er, charm, or it ohag y, the thick drap tt The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com y g at one a o e considered othert f idealith-sed er antion… a drf tkk oh, I decide to co ur” lt und the t p of the b s (€9.50 ek l h e i and debauchery, drunkards s aggworldleriny. Rather, nsists o raun-osion. I wonder what ites as y claims and arpationp g around e syrupy ends a nd s h t state in thir e o s pletaceble ta . g tes on a previouisl arobably tast d feni in , b t macon anu d musho position to tell in-Dublin-before-you-die listicles, but it provides the necessary sustenance. This is a truly mundane bar flavoured with a dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cocktails. light of some of its nearest neighbours; The Kiely’s meets TGI Friday’s hellscape of The Bottle Tower and unofficial home of the “Can I Speak to the Manager” set, Union Cafe, it does start to feel a bit like the third point in some sort of Bermuda Triangle of historyless, try-hard Nouveau Dublin. That said, it feels a bit meanspirited to begrudge suburban denizens of somewhere to read the paper in their approaching dotage. As I potter out into the January evening I nod to the priest, he seems contented enough. That must count for something? DW catch the last of the evening’s rays. All the while, regulars potter in and out for smokes and chats. In a neighbourhood that can feel a little staid and lifeless post-Angelus, McGarry’s is a solid option. It’s unpretentious and reasonable, the definition of ‘it’s grand, sure.’ Is it worth crossing the bridge for? Probably not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. facebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ ick wio G h thess (€5.40), which , oenioun, by mo th was in n - ind itself on any wh t-to-eattuinn e pizzas. I order ma artini in th’d e M&H co.ck i hl e wae. laim to “take tll Ay lickin ll dray, Ste Four Se tumos Nen re evor, t eah e thnks. She i ts uper on mg hs I put tesist hiin in a coit ple of lpruosps. M no a rn urs oeet yorror e loiohl ay’u rtichl ran tr eaf grassrn ts h m braade) d nly (a aioe on s apaening t a is a long atgane g mg a t t behind it? More s trass hs migrate its jp sted locd l hi s es bh n anaandles. Hihs imagor nn was imme yon s cecen ust likle tavts os cld captured, he’s an inquisitive sort. What cou e ampam o g ps oly ty die o ailny) refurbed wa rate o t coverel hont, perhaps unaware that her o so e na urte r er h inath, with th diatelrym breeze pange or at tset pre like a sl shoo pett that inato plnesume f p n her fr d in lacquered w pd alnd gra sss, siwucecets adorrow e, m tly bwa, wa e p corahtion, w co hmt ings a in nd sqos way t ouggs oroem tva , pd o f b dies spra ue k by’ere to be fdeun a d R op) f pet o R vh ci he bnts oe o e lin din h-ar un n es ill h fve to cor - ti ats, tue so t oper (a d proooreer y mwlh t price t h f €20 I couold red on tbly expec pping as pr n t o t eir closury sized curd redetvin ac haps t o we we ce for prima-ri y o com oo a toopm. andy, but it llo , oio at I ordered. A so e L n t’ h in rh f vases a arevtnhuso y comrpa ble saimll-lif anes eh f f bigue re Htioo sit in quiet co s iemp atorn, unmotlesth oyte fbject ster lg ab en ieep pl veace – Mor a gdirty’e Ha tlinlack a’ logo bt sas va o o praasenaoons tnns y bs defe unparae 19’ ility. V “b nter” next doepls tg wlo b l a trder olnumenue t necionn sy b , hs to reach mere erot er t udderleselviroune ehroun os, di r oabbhe ev a r iog ess, we s. The sou axon) b r (a sd the b of the cr temn th s frroun i attios os it ma tra k ro h d. Twtsrud in prep ra tinlg wa es t was ji n strugglied q e M&H co, q en I m k, I kt iitlh performanfd Mi. Thlthy’. Thi hsiderumni) anuirt t hi h co t th t of semis d w h a w locatiom ere ineinn b bnf und bhrtn hl ryolesune ernr a d vphrhip tey’s f o hi thie t n s t s enio es oe,e central d b hin he b a o overstate t e va ue o t em in Dupblin becrat sspace Jigsae ac w f mbg ser.ved liqlhde 10 ohd olif Ullysses. Where the two markedly differ is in their atmosphere. That being said, the idea of ascribing a value judgement based on this divergence in ambiance is somewhat thorny. Smyth’s is routinely jammed with well-heeled denizens of this, the leafiest of the leafy suburbs. Its milieu so much a celtic tiger throwback that, for those of us unmoved by affluence ogling, the mere thought of crossing the threshold (especially on a match day) can be nothing short of exhausting. Humphrey’s on the other hand, whether it strives to or not, manages to cultivate an absouot s m ting c’ve br b ating pleasures op o ever y ten t hoaos mis prro ou bgoing pope wu Oftentimes, w Rhe decou ’s not wh f mly hoer unr usaekanionletd uu t t kl e tetro Revwaivarlalec hn oe deliciouasi-a u th its a ld ihhe ya h urt tj r deallopb enmh t f ee wo d ‘ig- h s. It m u atio n imsignpling to find a city centre riget? W s sure y a mk ohi ling ats t t bulrligadn & l h a ts “f p aceurhtion mar pt arrives s e inas lefg oue pro many g it’imm drinkd g cold By (s irt d al in size an us sougwo o es ing t ese o ervap shirkintrength level of s lini . The drink, when s a b’s fritking that I cross e nd td the doles ew De plin be oer anp io ded our in r at er s aedere from a nice co pu e aaturae oafr’o e h aded to t al Indie Cla b’r pr p bs entire place is made out of drawers. That might initially read as hyperbole, a little poetic license being taken on my part to illustrate the fact that, sure, there are more than a few drawers. But no such luck. Floor-to-ceiling on the majority of walls, the entire façade of the bar itself, each and every secluded nook: all drawers. This striking interior design move was obviously conceived with a nod towards intimating a relationship between location’s current incarnation and the haberdashers that would have occupied this space in the past, an attempt at legitimising the same waistcoats and pipe-smoke, Dr. QW Pimms Goodtime Chelsea Cocktail Dispensary aesthetic that someone, somewhere, decreed all new city centre bars must adhere to. On collecting a round of Guinness (€5.30 a ecausy o ay se e H rasn h o t comes to pubs, it’s hardyon o co aoanwn o ua h lems t etith ‘ce space that errs to h t I rward the lilliputian ology. Conicld a”puml hrey’s t as caeqdh sicbse e hot sluch a daatues g of razzledazzle, naotiotanylly admirably in d. A d ide an h, in H e peterom th s there wa’ fopaces, d th n t e s ttio u s eas er ts slaract rndderiches em d in D , wit S strbjen y a bior th uen s h , doorsona e ment is oo oernad vitae o y scas h o oor ge l lies es f q o t . W ratene w n. - uin aree an l. Onls) leaae t ir sposu le n nd th ts er celeb en wh a e space imb es ig srmer use ueica. I et fr t s a match in - hw s was peo n t e y ver e wth se a agnuc e, iy dra’s hard to sincer e a ywa hior thtls. Str tg lleled n ture o eropes in Wa derqo or’der or exampleg s o rpr e coo ss teece aur f ce t ae dorely –en azy J and a at o bfce t e y wuiet and a let ucackp wa s e sase; twe adge nis utterly seamless, they even share a bathroom. Somewhat thrown by this revelation, we sniff out an unclaimed table in corner and begin to fully take in our surroundings. The first thing that strikes you is that the hrn vodcated on t e sh, v sited b t in hsh a f th siesd t ltlegh. This is NO UGLY DUCKLING The Swan FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM