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O words Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick words Aoife McElwain photo Killian Broderick words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan weird how monks are allowed to drink, isn’t I ask Anton as we approach The Jolly Monk, newly renovated bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I an, as in you would think drinking would be hibited or something.’ What’s weird about that? Everybody drinks,’ says. ‘Name one profession that doesn’t.’ I nk for a moment. I suppose I thought that the monk was one.’ They named a bar after the monk’s drinking, idiot,’ he says. ‘Look at the sign!’ A monk o grro sey iy to a g a an, as in you would think drinking would be hibited or something.’ What’s weird about that? Everybody drinks,’ says. ‘Name one profession that doesn’t.’ I nk for a moment. I suppose I thought that the monk was one.’ They named a bar after the monk’s drinking, idiot,’ he says. ‘Look at the sign!’ A monk are allowed to drink, isn’t are allowed to drink, isn’t approach The Jolly Monk, ar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I approach The Jolly Monk, ink, isn’t o loaoks li,ke Nei o gio s y ta y to ae. ‘I wiac b f a c lp h le wa en t aee a acnd cln, p . Ied o blishm hs t t creh act-- T e av on Bar a r sapp drinks,’ein w h a smi of hiey is holdin y t t aecitle sadnys it h y’ ns. Th ill rets w en pn mle uen h - weird how monks are allowed to drink, isn’t I ask Anton as we approach The Jolly Monk, newly renovated bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I d think drinking would be ng.’ t that? Everybody drinks,’ ofession that doesn’t.’ I d think drinking would be ng.’ t that? Everybody drinks,’ ofession that doesn’t.’ I rink, isn’t ly Monk, ly Monk, Hotel. ‘I would be sea Hotel. ‘I would be o lo ks lik Morrissey is holding aloft a e on his face. Anton pauses childminders, maybe.’ t that the monk was one.’ after the monk’s drinking, ok at the sign!’ A monk orrissey is holding aloft a e on his face. Anton pauses childminders, maybe.’ There’s something quite alluring about the a of drinking in a hotel bar. The sense of sn’t.’ It: ‘I supp hat mak derke y t n enormou e tlhtiinlt shine f h ps burh ni h d oy th of hi ose exc ea g sn’t.’ Ir stein with a smi e on orrf tisshose exc eay til ges, ratre t oem o e ro ps bur htao py!t’ I s onle on his face. A h n es, rare h p happy’ hpy,’ he sttops te sl M i ive wass a s holdin a ppt alof urae o h p y! e Neil M There’s something quite alluring about the a of drinking in a hotel bar. The sense of t that the monk was one.’ after the monk’s drinking, ok at the sign!’ A monk hroing in lifp, th in ldmin o t n ybehter very q ne was one.’ drinking, monk hroing in life, t t ma e yo ve way to an imiclture o drinks,i’’ Itt’’s o e of th ugh was one.’ drinking, monk . S r ice it to say ao en e th t Th s nematic imagination has surely, with the instituses over the years housing s, murder plots and the n wahen t aee aayd celdgnd sl’ coly fin ur sm o goiues A hy Hetesf y na ar g obse Qaue y lace auld lad in f in ni h d coloa y erot t crteh aclosu w o spen ’’f cra n in its va enormouus guisionees over the yeaio byolo k opad o u s, arrays ot wan tsgs and ps tt b ’up to t irrita ing it i, h hen pemat nu kink ol f foeessey ead w ble thiner! Ie ograup p to tve pa ron quite alluring about the hotel bar. The sense of stery and briefly, fleetingly place that is at once home quite alluring about the hotel bar. The sense of stery and briefly, fleetingly place that is at once home p ways i t tffy’re in otssys ts estpf svshmemos pte ok i - ier ibmfoy a raptpf fiwao on s Rita Haywo asyst ud colol m di ln adh nit b ah ft te bered ohd a ormous fplder (A2 size maaouf the Thkm d et hin eb d pgs ano t boer! Iraerd bt t mantic trysts, c o t of thd afe fafmiliats Dthm J y s d not home. The cinematic im gr d cldgni us gui in y, wt a sorar t blesing un permanence, of mystery and briefly, fleetingly rsecting lives, in a place that is at once home not home. The cinematic imagination has ng aloft a on pauses aybe.’ ut the se of fleetingly irufiftat nce home ion has stituhousing nd the Jolly on tes A llbb, Th it’ do they m t. ‘Ar ga urts bekaaantce aha . Ct, wa ld Ste b inh o ha bsecha stio de e as r e Ny stt rotsm a bo spe k of (bar p t Th t ps b bg a li g ae ographf the bea aron s i tthe pre b tus tload of f us em eo Fy eve o er n einle tld pace I lot The Ih’y ie let o . Tha givhe wa ey Hos ol the betlmino ioe ograep be Lessh ’s g en th hin nnoug nstituhousing nd the Jolly si hr ngerbar and eating ngerbar and eating e csolel. Thly fint Thdi id acen t Auhsinh f e b essh f va-iale ns o w toere peop g n rber-inf senioreme, so ynt te bers an. ‘ gas ton ue p the corner of the bar and ekend holidayers eating a boxes on their laps (the the start of October, I’m arby individuals for varitheir psychical comfort. emotional state of the aps (the ber, I’m or variParliament Street, mple Bar, Dublin 8 vydublin.ie 6718267 omfort. of the ow the ety at o photogfrom the too the spasms t served t for the he cost supor the outsider. b bl arge cruto our omfort. of the ow the ety at o photogfrom the too the spasms t served t for the he cost supfor the outsider. ee s thiohr t n t and bitter. n o ty recourr tn. ‘ h’or a e t n ooem wa sty e mr” uuites, A h a me therBetoglee tl a d buzzina f r t h s Ivy c e real pitfall of the h u aps (the ber, I’m or varings by recourse to photogher environment from the uotidian form; so too the ter’, or the death-spasms an Sontag notes how the lleviates her anxiety at ne stuh uga et en er suesi Ic’s fctiot th f craft blin s, u ua. Thi rao n s t p yrour review?’ Ataturn as kt il i Th h of va exi tcb lecns o s yh e to t’s she bctsa a er sens salitdier (€9) made with Benlt, bleitt b” urbrle i ls lik s iss li e a g iei h bj a mas erB levaielirtui dier (€9) mt egas s , b imeso r r t o pe’s saeu-sies a e phe p le b en. I pt, blino “pteuwatchin gage wo ld es h es. Thd fitub itself is spap een’s su irects’ b t fe nsi we o er h, loc hill aade with Beng ulld tleilt b” urbrle ies et k wal. Wle velling individual alleviates her anxiety at amiliar surroundings by recourse to photoghy, engaging with her environment from the distance of the quotidian form; so too the m Papa John’s pizza boxes on their laps (the ’s kitchen opens at the start of October, I’m d) and heckling nearby individuals for variinfringements on their psychical comfort. s is the precarious emotional state of the rist writ large. Susan Sontag notes how the nematic imagination has surely, with the instituses over the years housing s, murder plots and the triof the fafmo io male a l, unauntc o earrarenera n ieits h o ned aff liili u b t f the Thkmr pe re English lads’ wee tkend holidayers eatinge o cad woiein ig a liole oraere no eir ly sr tot t gs a t hin ogn t b unny tiof the fa ’ma s Do s ipeao y s nce home ion has m Papa Jo t y g a ooiut p bs ie ie I l terw w toedg i aowenere t t Th b llhoro s eaN b , b t bak n w io ao enhere tt yt Th oh b t o h tt eThanha e oe Jn tes Abs it, t (v m i ages tgtsible ceht ai es t pa e oe Jn tlhorruytt plde vs, wos o h weAr sem ierahlatep b t t f h tt Thanh, t hin lde we wa e iy H t y we i do t’hey m’t betk lmin unly* pa uru gonighnaat? Phe e aru f our cit e a simis kiwtecv en o ens at t goiues Abf Olbl, Th tervut mweses tre yoe co d) ae peewstlel. Thly finf senior ty eceno ace f y a ra t , rvc y a senutsce aleneg oni, w vyo ior a newbamte d wdei e a Whdg i oh w pod colour s ht Thct direten fur rlbn a Vice at ric d whos werw. I pl ts b ,d f r auated in the hear Whrth woofu a mg orut a sler t oabrbverteduminw o eraren t wa der in ta m f Elf Ee e sleuer S c er osumin e mig t wah i thin a b sine hickt “ ex,ld lad in o eleir psycd w o immtanmat f Elna’eccaeusuer St eeax. . Suffice ih e a w ah w p f tl f g bere she a oriem tat At the b aaan. ‘t h s o tl a uitpbliyoruhbe, Th t do thtrwes t pro co mantic ttring it i ers, m rdwever, teoape oe J ln tlvhoru ng aloft a on pauses aybe.’ ut the se of fleetingly o ned af i s’ weekend holidayket a sine vys ot itges t th n noavve no, but bahtth hai h enoug nt waer ext ty funny pk iys is Rita He in ottsewoo lly finf senio em , s ylrnplace fer i. Mr -ts awahif cra pt y ct--vwdt anrt ts aks m s ant be tiinl ara mg orue plerhraps be peost d e bf thra n ad t o t nwnd s erBs sets gues o e t n oe. e exit, waving - ur scfroy even lho k id aluoe . Mt reminded mee at td Pt, wa tniinla s atini g o t t a , un f t e b r ate vys o orpeso immtao hr tvhe a drink aiod rreelet. aa eses a cen tt po eloswd gs,’cGlecntio ns a llk ihen ths lest saeo say, h ttlThanhts es aa vFin s ta s, wos ovhe bwees t siu go uhks m no nh e i ’hv aer a s atini g o t t e co me cornter oed by tlin e mig o n th flo emen a r minim , blem wa yhit, butn e English lad ats D m Jok of (b Thet Ths Rhven do cratfle tt b er! Ivs ubt d awseqae tnf R thminut wive a wh s lest s y’r Whrth wi. Ifle. Th oaat The Jeny Marropa e h urewood be r a ass a mbrb, unauntter oh shoys og b far t ff f le Old S di e fBl phleuer Sll feig oot wiurth en d bh ween sweet maleabrble coun er ef te mighicf fit b h flohe btr tner the corner of the bar and ekend holidayers eating a boxes on their laps (the the start of October, I’m on tes Av e wa ey He Ivl the be g ie yo npe tu BOLAND’S SWILLSy t h t u t ad of fra Th oc es o a a pue, a e olilt), Lete ps tt y ta e te tis tracanceo e r gt w it l b , Th in S’ do tvht wer ht. ‘f h t b le otos u r ro obler esanagt pn tsi le cekg to pTh i o speak of (bme e sy evd ethrhin tps b venhiner! I er arglbel. Susae Ivon ag no Ar ley* po in n d b glishman with ‘banter’, or the death-spasms he once proud colonial mindset that served orically so well as a comfort blanket for the The o Th y even do cratft b r s ovhe r ht. ‘A g c t At the b gs bhe b ras a B ner ener ext tty fvro tohy.res , ile t whilst r it’ do ther helmin lley* popo k d bt t it do t’s overweselmingly* pd cr l i Th Parliament Street, mple Bar, Dublin 8 vydublin.ie 6718267 e s ttn fo o keep bree B. t even tar f conhryv ela s, w- ms wy convricy be a’t wa t tert, oe co kath-snd ewetorel bar f pro paey y a ht wav otnm si ou f herm t’r minima w, bst r ith en d bet geen sweincing h ieit bjs prioen unn h h l b en t tbjee b’ b n. ‘oe si ot er n tas cena si d tgs anreht po g t es ar rld go by wental ve grow uxur ule tn an Sontag notes how the lleviates her anxiety at The ther no ab iei os prein unnye Ihy i ls tly tl, bho trtim at’aaceug e movemen s altiotn o l arny posi-t, i avin r y ev y ur rla y bw ts guests aks mn theeo on .v vy stales iv e o lf th ef te might wale Oh velling individual alleviates her anxiety at amiliar surroundings by recourse to photoghy, engaging with her environment from the e distance of the quotidian form; so too the glishman with ‘banter’, or the death-spasms he once proud colonial mindset that served orically so well as a comfort blanket for the arby individuals for varitheir psychical comfort. emotional state of the bably by a ra nttoe coce tao one. e Is the Negrt, wae exi nio bit tr e taprp, fiofud’r wh probably by a raf va b aoioic a d expen rt, wa ingd f r The t er no a sele t e h enl’hy, b h. u er spybleph n-u g ab unny ec e p ra b e se mig R neit er ext tetby ff E s seledier (€9) made wilinhi ld timesou s cohin. W osidered tum er o lshe venera n tder in tao hasi Box va cn wtrf craft beth Bolt, bleitt b” urbole its oldnes f senio ig a decent pbace fiew?’ Ataio oinie coks monee. er”s we exi s , winieth a htap ur us continent.a o h of senio ig a decent p ace f y a ra ntoemind w shyle barenu t, wavinwad fhing tor a he world go by havin r tty even for a ner i o t rr af va n ai t svns o t oever, sui d to “pg le O e b ow ts guests a e o h Rody Bolands ib der in ta m f Ea n. ‘ xle siotion ooem was sg o B B’cen yehe tae pteh eatiners, e v heraody Bolandsk and rreel, bet.ade with B lld tleit b” urbon ts oldness is uova en t wa o the barmave a dr eqin cnio s lle baenueeres,ve g cotnhing t e woug r d s i o th e bar tn. ‘B’Tr a e t n o ax. e resw t. ‘Ar se ou goin i ics p in.w ed thapbex, y ur review?’ Atio orif ftiiot he t s hh .o ot ee m , s y even do craf hin ea ep br bit he fair p n t t nt waer ext ou we no uo, ile he real pitfall of the hoteaderls hlupaappr yi d, iatranscio se Ivy caion to k ep br bitte ht waer extn of thhicth was rea con-ts t w, iat’an ugrao stus wlen swwn t n e subjs prrion of tvhe ny.oh’r minimlalu, brautiivedit ’ o n orn as nvks me as w vy st les i to o binieth a h ap uio s contin eems engagement n io of fivks m n e copu ae an ry tthr ads h o ae r . Thl know some people who can’t wa t re yttiion ting ted bt t vy styles i t, w gd m proor a ner ibie; i on asv ded mee I At t t an r tv oucch rdier (€9) m er! Itot t Thee Ihy i ls ttl coapp bl nat au go k ati es t e I e aeuld lrad iny all ktio -n of the Ber n ement o cant wait e yo ve colvtg terage aere Ne fair p o ex, s “l le tidi ugatet y funnletbusies al n ohile cost r u na ’urnature coc tail is the N . apasms ive population: here, everyone is an outsider. eryone’s a spicer,’ Anton suggests. onial mindset that served a comfort blanket for the r sensibilities at the cost he other. This, I supof the hotel bar for the ive population: here, everyone is an outsider. eryone’s a spicer,’ Anton suggests. onial mindset that served a comfort blanket for the r sensibilities at the cost he other. This, I supof the hotel bar for the of variations on t le baen . I plings a Boulevardier (€9) m egalinh B lei eso An old man wearing a slightly-too-large crux necklace passes by us as we return to our 8 The Ivy s y to be g own-u , fu us contura t rino “ n ,e, everyone is an outsider.bl t les itse r Anton suggests. g a slightly-too-large cruby us as we return tgo our arge crun to our The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie Anton suggests. g a slightly-too-large cru, The Ivy styles i to b dose oe grow uxurio s co style bar”, suited to “watching the world go by whilst regaling old times”. While its oldness is contrived, it’s also strangely convincing. We probably all know some people who can’t wait to be grown-up, for whom it seems engagement rings and mortgages are one and two on the life agenda. This bar, born old, seems like a good fit for them. by us as we return to ourur ma hile its oldness iish additional daily specials. contrived, it’s a s flor them.o strangely co vn incing. We of variations on th styhe mr” uuite lino “ n t sty u raenuuite ag e de e and bitthr ads horr tb bl vy styles i t o tohich was r e ag mwatchin gage w ld, seems like a good fit fold to whilst regalin a enda. This bar, b ro n old, seems like a good fit g or t fhimes”. Win courses, w t pro a y all know some people who can’t wait or whom it seems engagement The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie em. The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie for them. tself as “l p o uuxur r whom it sen aeemls engag en a. Thi p ohf an oune and t o on the life which was rea y tats vy b ls als d bet g ly co oeetef r d j ’t wa con rtii de , iat’ance An old man wearing a slightly-too-large crux necklace passes by us as we return to our Boulevardier (€9) made with Bld tlenleit b” urbr n l which was realllly t r ve , iat’anso sor t a eso and bitter. s tence otynio b elf a n-up, fiolove gs t t sen , sd rd to “ped mortgah whil ade wi g o u dim . Whi tle ilts o conatstii dlly b ls acer thranwe y co v The I eg onio b h a h, with a hn-u e m ”, s re, everyone is an outsider.lf as “lf molioti-cu inenl infl style bar”, suit d tgs a s bar, bog t es ar rld go by w pro a y al d the th e people who can’t wait o lnttin eme tas engag ceen le bp an. I punnind foor a ges aoe one a ytra ve y on th ttele. Most notablbly, it’s home , seem d b le t beg a tg open, aneat coanas voe, idct’a l tep b ed we eade coatnnis tley balence rings and mortgages a e o e an o us on t agenda. This bar, b ro n old, seems like a good fit *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. Rathmines has a lot going for it. Not least of all, the array of pubs on offer. The most remarkable thing about the variety of drinking emporia that dot the suburb is the fact that, despite all being spitting distance from one another, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its own. Depending on one’s taste or the particularities of what you’re looking for at any given moment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt for an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? Inexplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s nest of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied imbiberies is primed and ready to step in and fill that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart though, for better or worse, is the breadth of different niches that it aims to occupy. Rody Bolands first opened for business in Rathmines has a lot going for it. Not least of all, the array of pubs on offer. The most remarkable thing about the variety of drinking emporia that dot the suburb is the fact that, despite all being spitting distance from one another, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its own. Depending on one’s taste or the particularities of what you’re looking for at any given moment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt for an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? Inexplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s nest of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied imbiberies is primed and ready to step in and fill that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart though, for better or worse, is the breadth of different niches that it aims to occupy. Rody Bolands first opened for business in m; s wo t bwen hea e f-tsit ely b leir sigl d betw tple wa cktail i The Nhe I egrf the team w o r w enas B en va. This, I sy tlap und sh enougaem. e o er. This, I sy t pro a y all know someme ip o hle w ederersnn I h with a healthy u b bl rings and mortgages are one and two on the life d ade urtd mo to be grown-up, f is designed to serve two to three people. The tabrle nnext td two or he life n *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. begrudgingly acknowledge that since the trend took hold it is much easier to find genuinely healthier options in the fast food and food-onthe-go landscape, and that has its clear benefits. Nutbutter, which opened in Grand Canal Dock in late March, includes the hashtag #sexyhealthyfood on their Instagram bio. That particular hashtag makes me want to crush a ripe avocado with my bare hands in a hot rage, but they are an Irish-owned company and their interior looks delicious so my interest is piqued. The café is an offshoot of HQ Gastrobar right next door, and it was owner Paddy Hogan who hatched the plan to open this plant-based café. Hogan enlisted the skills of Executive Chef vy sroles i t, we grow euxur u hom it sental d tgs a d m g t es ar rhld go b w st r Chling o f ulliim . Wk tle i n overposs liky wpmen.ter ’ cllub meaning a sea tem.g en sweetn incingiver e h lm in tthe k cituhctioe o keu wp t.o tvs res hon ryvo leir sigan hy t e a ld lrad iny ateir sig tio n tf craaft beerhi um gd fhint ehgagop e o e and t o on t . woem waeerhigg o a fda. This b , born oldn e ts like a gooe p r nier s a u a now some people wheen’ tse g ow euxur l u hom it sen ae t s o e as war” uuit r um ed mort hg t es ar rld go by w so n t i efl hin r t thle cost w eg oouhehw roefso f ts o ocioem.ge h b or to . Th s ace hicnh iis doeincingo tllee exper - paph . Thl krshesu e p tsietlf as “l peap uhf, f bio’oo hht e p o sink in ’o. It’s ust ua ly reliably li elv ly and r um nd fhint or a bog asts a dind t o on the life ben, anl know some peo s moo ca n-up, f r wh m it s egaef Kild t t b” urbreraory overw ee mse nf r d j. Werits luenem t agenl a. This ba t, bhi lioo a Lild, so a Lldn h s i l se a g The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie l fo d bettem.h n D on ts o t tespoohs i l su opooord fits’ c b meaning a sea lur in is a . Weys descend o of transformations, as has this restaurant. Back when I was outside looking in, its owners were Claire and Richard Douglas, and had been since the ’80s. Sébastien Masi and his partner Kirsten Batt took over in 2010 and rebranded as Locks Brasserie. In 2013, Head Chef Rory Carville helped steer the team towards receiving a Michelin Star. Carville left the restaurant in the summer of em. Tht e menu is t uitt wly bt l n o s ranween sweetcing. We The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie dwa c o a y a l kno bloot m io sink int . Its u tse g ow uxur us contin eems engag beblhe hanow s egaling a a fdim.t as bes, beoeg beess is ly b ls acer thranw itl h b et ev re inwatcdien e wos oe anoseo on t , ss s a ld tew r. Wa hing b, seem yly bgs al o “ n leir sig- ot crietoic mho ca r umpeg hintgas iean t ld gg v w a. This ba , born oldnes lemo wa c. Thi bhosne on o bd tse clst roourslien e, I was n g t e wo ldra e aunys like a good fi.t *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. w somh eos t ple who catnt wa’it h verse cliene life os There’s the option of a côte de boeuf, which ask how it is, they’re delighted with their lives. “Perfect hangover cure,” they say, as they melt into a happy meat coma. I’m too excited by the menu to limit myself to 2013 and the Brasserie lost the star in 2014. That incarnation of the restaurant closed its doors in July 2015. Keelan Higgs, who has been at Locks since at least 2013, reopened as Locks 1 Windsor Terrace in September 2015, alongside co-Head Chef Conor O’Dowd. The new Locks is smart-casual; the charm*I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. rroe ond eight starter-sized plates and der it a d when I lean over to o s ranween swvincingerseys descend on thn the pub ee p b every match ent e uppor ers r s “lapfuor w oontin ems en oement e ta y convrick wa bile tos and p ilenty of snugs andugs and plump m kac erel (an additional €6) is grilled until s co tten Clharlotte Quayllly reliably li ev y an bli t r *I me wrts a di’s t tt fieir fieriro of c deeole. M ott nota ld Stenad onse oereele inesaeursuer S w ax.e phil t rsat t b . I p o “waum d fd w k ld g nt waf b en vt Th’r minim y ur rla ey b ber ea emind whos we aTh e exironi o f onhofuxur e s o en a b t At th I visit Ch lon e Qhr sty aue mr”, Iui, s ’ thit, b ptee t nohr ee en o by b t ble thhin ett s uhich wae p ar ns tiedi, ih ensod bhet g y co v ar pertoary o ses h e w to o kve ngsln ” mra nn. Th e raesagt p o coow tlohioe ysitenn tug tto pute N . s, ae migh th n old Suanmate fl oale e Th er n l st te o le thhin , wera reso immters a e nv ouo’r minimah, bax. tiohh en do craft b er! Ios uhic en fbed to h nnuros u gopht ai es t e I eg op t e ie; it rtf fg diaenute t p nier siex, s “l t ttey m n lmin l b in i e co inl ce art t s gld laad in bl voy a ra tto svcey a sifusl f egeo , w lf ae pos ovfe rferwesin es ts sy* pv y a s andh bitthree fair le sh a head bf io s co o co o ucil il tht t e arules i a t A nt was pr r ’u wp t.o tvs rea os u gopo kl tep by tere bs per! Iy f’siv p t.o tvs rd a co bind td beto strange y co vl in urn o u o pdu bitthnt d ou th a he enol s roem iat s ce o gag h n le b e exi. I pinvd tropug oor a l f o sso t eview?’ Atio of fiione t d me m r d o eres se k and re et. ega s uhich waama y tns . Th s a sl o thf el c ta o pu o eg o , w lf a n-u f, f r w The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie tself as “l p o The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie h of vaairle tts ot h n tf craerfy on i d tlts sed oim . While i t u egaling o u h es he a dr uquer Stiolem was sg fuoun c or a h h a n os e n ’r minimahl whil t rst with enoug te um e tc w en sweetn incing. We s contliinnemls en gagemen sua gs a snlect n t wd b bitet.w ads hopvpemhing s c tao oil is tderrvonyld lad in k tphul aale gemassuminlg bes, weral co ter R dider in tar d onad as svarse tor yd h hit hit, butn gs af td ph teten’ t The Ihy i ls tl ly tt uoly bt lh ence infrinle cossuminsrraraoen ia ble Ot wainto trt. o hy fe a drink a d rhlet. er perso a t t lo a car ramee o caer naoein ineihte er ext t v hsy e neigl , unents on ts, arrays ot wanmf t t weby T oue e n tnarreebade w h Bdl.leit bourbon en do craf httg a y fu wlit),h wa’r minimt aas t wi onoou.ughetwe ntd hewktlinfud coloav noh lg a del ls f pt, st perebs a coly b ninn uro temin d mo h-spnirts b r sit u aa ur scvoy ev t pur rl bs a coly b nin oo ’es, sdon. ‘ uc ctio n tf craft b vd hn otio uotload of frame ey e ps bt ble thhin trog e resest p o co v k d , t hin lde wes on tigy Hi a Lae ethelminrunloetbeopu v auihld is, ws ovher anesll coos g ab g lvy ub lbl, Th t aut me bes t g cen t o le co k d bry t e au er sex, y ineb y) ch ie; iio oy a rags,ron aisc he feevloloegroo, w gaarr sit tuotxload orf f Ph’toptho ogager-ine Joiemlg a dely Mrropa evw ts guests avpde e as od ma e exit, waving f th be v h h n o t h owbmft gas f fon u n tn . io Thd ethhin ta g a liole otsive nerfp t.oo tvs r e o hy ine Jituy M.rropaiace fer its guests ae tnn oo e F eers, av e s e wa ec ot bo eh, Ie Ial the be t pn o cosopug ttl id by th pt” Ik id aiew?mfp retr ks m e ven oor lesder in tao hiohe a drink ahd rrf cralet. umh Ba y alor me. It was b ieither ext tet aav Box vaf thr h ramee o cer no unleat bivtinra n cfhe fas h p y ar per a be do tvhwshot. ‘en tley* pn ting teen r vare-eview?’ Af va-i tioe t b-sls w d b h e bar t d awsh s e p em wa ohit A lower d oneres se hes es teg cble cehaaeeensy t e auirer sex, ent cotntrig u - cGarry’s is nei-s neitthe “ pe and ewheads hvopasy o eir sig- ra ht. M en f k id aor ie’ Ataio of fle ti ks mes t .o on e N y og ye d f nt remin o o eeshever porumpea od ar emoaaav Baxf t euqdier (€9) made wft bs it does fn nt was pr b unnws dier (€9) mours s odlleit bourbon , bvy m nag hosheu goel peo panin ust w e em. That leav- es McGarry’s, a eay’ul h h t s, in 2015, thf tahirad ponpy. Their sign t. ‘es tefe ysi n y a s ts o e fairer sith a h pf or a nw ie; irtrtarioph t b unnyd to h lhat ut lo a ak, ad b o gd then sweet . I pl ts g s “l em outiin o B lehr h ahs The men s sem wau b lumul te ensif Ee cchauqction ohbu a eers, u nrtt e cove ttab-shleash-s. I p hich wae p t, b tis ty b l ther hip nor trendy. You won’t find Neapolitan pizzas or craft cocktails with cutesy names on the menu. Wings and pitchers of Bavaria are the vibe here. One sunny evening, I decide to nip across for r on ts oldn verag ther hip nor trendy. You won’t find Neapolitan pizzas or craft cocktails with cutesy names on the menu. Wings and pitchers of Bavaria are the vibe here. One sunny evening, I decide to nip across for e the fa et onye t eir sig- ra ib o tcGarry’s i ioexipnt.ledt l y es olf a reuxur l u p e mg st etig t. Mo; to sit a, an l r a ts, a o their do he life es . Whi hinn oldeveragky’veooe p e onppd t d tohore life cv og a toep buerlit),esve pa rapa sd iws a gs,on as nd whoe menuctks might h pfs l eir sefurtiotet o kvup p t.o thhads hfeopo. Their sig d kinl i, L e exiin lhit, b p w e em. That leav- es McGarry’s, a t, wavinith a heaavor auated in the heartt lde v ll ps (ty ev eo seinsg a li er! Ig o’s uhsree Ihy is tt aat if ytou e r weA em ierainl ce aht to p e Nf thld laad in , seem ees. Thd fitub itself is spa- lements for t e specials. The s arter s ep cial of . Whs and plenty of sn Tipperary way back in 1870s. For around 50 years, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, fuel, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands Tipperary way back in 1870s. For around 50 years, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, fuel, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands the traditional starter/main course approach, so my pal and I order five of the smaller plates to share. Our table is soon stuffed with plates of fish, meat and vegetables, food perfect for sharing and facilitating a catch-up chat. A plate of delicate tuna crudo (€12.50) is flavoured with a touch of orange, and layered with finely diced red and green chilli. A plate of charred broccoli (€8) is served with a delicious roasted almond hummus, and the hen’s egg is a crisp delight on the outside and a molten, runny joy on the inside. Both are front-runners for dinnertime favourites. The Toonsbridge Halloumi (€10) is nicely Dave Murray last year and the pair started 2018 with a research trip to Los Angeles in January, eating around the town and picking up inspiration. “As a classically trained chef,” Murray tells me, “my first thought was ‘how am I going to cook without butter?’ But it’s been a great opportunity to experiment and to be really creative.” The menu is writ large on the wall behind the service counter and it’s plant-based focussed but fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a Dexter beef tartare, served with harissa, bulgar wheat, and blobs of sumac yogurt, all served on lavash (€11), a crispy flatbread thought to have originated in Armenia, but with claims to Persian roots too. It’s a creative little snack with all of the parts working together to make a truly tasty mouthful. We also order a little bowl of ing maître d’/waiter is decked out in jeans and a subtly crisp shirt. It’s a simple way to quickly set the tone; this is more of a relaxed neighbourhood bistro than a Michelin-starred fine dining experience. There’s a lot of dude bros in this restaurant; I spot at least one man-bun in the kitchen. fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. very match ular m Joshua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no h d not exclusively so; there are options to add proteins including chicken, turkey, salmon, and beef, all sourced in Ireland. Behind the counter, staff are peeling and chopping butternut squash in the background while the rest of the team assemble heirloom tomato and avo salads (€9.95) and bowls of Rainbow Padthai (€12.95) to order. It’s the jackfruit tacos (€13.95) that win me - RESTAURANT hRESTAURANT NEW NEW Book Now!Book Now! ph: (01) 537 5767ph: (01) 537 5767t atc s A peanuWe caer par sfat the chateaubriand sharing Considering its history of transience, Considering its history of transience, over. Jackfruit is sort of like an ugly mango and it’s blessed with the ability to soak up flavours and retain moisture. The tacos are served with Murray’s delicious cashew nut cream, red wine vinegar pickled onions and avocado tucked into soft white tortillas. Thanks to the vision of interior decorator Jill pig’s tro berutifuked do n t h of smesq s wuiett inith tarrah n (€3), with o an oh I’zy, tentder, pulled-apf tt meat encas d in a cr spefoae, t batter. tteas cool and, ewen t oug o ve ea en a variation oarhis dish a milelion times bi y brll ofhis one tastes y g up t go a e v fresh and perfectly of the season. t butt n’t resi it (€7.50) with s lted perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature caramel, caramelised banana and a chocolate mousse is really well balanced. It could have been far too heavy or far too sweet, but instead it’s just on the right side of decadently delicious. A charred peach and fig dessert with amaretto and vanilla ice cream (€8.50) is lovely, but feels a little too prematurely wintery, as the fruit has been poached in what tastes like the classic booze and spices mix so favoured by Christmas cooks. There may be some bumps to iron out, as L’Estrange of L’Estrange Design, Nutbutter is poised and ready to be ‘grammed. It’s millennial pink meets palm tree print and bamboo light shades; draping succulents hang overhead while leafy fronds cover corner crevasses from their pots; even the cutlery is rose gold. It’s very beautiful, and it elevates the atmosphere of what is essentially a counter service canteen. Poké, proteins bowls and peanut cacao balls could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved would be expected in the early days of a new business, but I don’t experience any on my visit. The staff are friendly and knowledgable, giving good tips on what to order and steering us away from over-ordering (we wanted to try everything), and the room is a pleasant space to be in. We grab a drink at the bar connected to the restaurant after dinner, watch the rain hit Grand Canal Dock, and think about how lovely this veranda and vista would be on a sunny evening. Even in poor weather, it’s still a beautiful, urban view. Our bill, which includes a glass of Montepulciano (€8.75) and a homemade hibiscus syrup with sparkling water drink called the Queen Medbh (€5), comes to a total of €90.75. Charlotte Quay has everything it needs to succeed: a great view, a talented chef, experienced staff leading the charge and an already loyal fanbase. All they need is for Dubliners to get over the psychological barrier of eating off the beaten track. This spot is worth seeking out. board special (€15 extra per person and it’s worth it). We get plates of slowly braised short rib and then a board of pink slices of the tenderloin fillet (aka the chateaubriand), topped with onion rings and golden, fluffy chips on the crubeen croauce pr enu, baby beetroots are served salt-baked with their lovely long roots attac e , sprinkled with m h ticks of apple and blobs of soft goat cheese. There are micro-greens and circular discs e pl t . It looks really d s ered and blackened, with charred cucumber, cra y, it’s home b meat and blobs of avocado sauce. It’s delicate without being up its own arse. From the regar e pass aps b na urahers, a iadr, w f f o immer d onerBaenaehas hhn o et. Ths Rgehad w r der in tanmathinx cc, bsuq t be pod rrteeh h s s. t a sh Were peostfle. 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Thi e o B fcio r an , an t sa y’rre thahrwpt . Th t Tht. Wlo y, anenougr, sornpets a cor-gs,tWhh t t’ co b f a c irbiethtte sg it io y q neiouickld ayfurfiliova s D f the Thk a resa . H r d cldgsys’ comtaous, ah ll ur ys i if hi e in i ue in othasy. Its es aa vmt o goiaues A enoug den -ed a o ossibsoevnale enoe y,s is the lack of am td e e o sd Gáunnllde vl, Thhint me bes t o coes tem ir ograplit), ace tint in o of ted atfyfuriliaraayunntm J k opad o ooet aeowechings a ts waher f i l rt Ththet da es t s fy’e b attet d . 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Buh t s toe s o her ’ cog a o goiues Ab lbl, Th tesaut me bes t gsiu goe antce a h id ps pretenhingwse u p ts a e t eir p mre o cer noitah itshing ak ali th vr .e pa hot s to anhin lde wh bs it p vanramee o caer noeing a litetle otoupus oe asuirer sex, g or t a s rps bay in a grs, a te v, wemenh f w f (bn Therd b ta mf in ni etun , wc he a oremenh flow , b t bt kese r abrbverrnlleesd “ rlealg bcg aa ot able Old Stadiasie fle a dr k a o ax. ath enoughiff of p – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulysses n one osrisf thhiskey bot les on div s, an eah h n -haovers a panys is. Th i l rkTher ts es blit hm h s, w ahut m ween t e wa en thaee wnd clenh an momen aru en ug idend a tiinl hinf hirsi Wh eveinood oce hm o e dend a nin n, paer. Ile. 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Th bsy, a-s tc s, weh act- anagme peo der ter H dd bet in an adfrtemev, st p ng vs a f Eg o tter b le codd b o eolcg biaarn adaresat-ion ndi te f x er t m t debll, Th denr s nin led copt Th lioy ben f lpace f ci bliy, ar t ougo ibeb-ls, by b nin io o sass, B o ef t na , win ” m, a rar tn. ‘ e h ger och ly elh en fur rlace foh ac a t. ‘Ah locenph t yv ded mev fd Perhit, b tu dhiff of p – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulysses n on I i f th be p ur r y bt i ’ Atio of fiv y a sensece aur 20s hang lly’s are better ag o e pleron t ee psyos e m an e Jeme, st sipelicesa gs,tsitio ma , unl f f e ae in oturnhin lde wt p bs i bn, b t betka es t em is h h e w a en e tt y le ube tothr- bs ihs, wes s e tt ye opang ab ot on, p o Olo y -s t t creh act--a erorat oa be?) aee u er ht’ in ct ohf the fa siu n om Joly s s w en peopg a sou n tt p tbs iy H e oe Iat met eu rhea o t w rrst os ’ she . Th t in ah lemlht cr rcent zers a cots guesemin td mlll p s tuotload of framy s mess R ad wieing a little orap slit),, whs n tthoeir p s, w ty H h l tg a gs at H ot ld’er es As Enne Ieuy Thet pt Hbsrv rlde v o ced et hin ogver i erhg g a es en tbaleos. ‘Dn a ce a f fble Old S o te flaws uer S awseq h t lde vs, ws ov wesagt p o co t p d by thosie O’Grady’s is curren - -, ah la sugt pcen ldend a w?ie; i cG e to o e oe do thr nw es t o n un en ionhe fs an latn at-lxeccausuer St s mt bax.f keggy Ke f s p et t t Th’ in ct nad iats d eers, f fp Ar a n w? gs,o-n asrnd whas were seg ing owbmf nt emind whos wer ne I ah ethelminem ile yy* po in aueense tey m y a rao esg h ttn e ana , bvy mth of dehe le cuv y a sbs. R e fair o the b awo h oms sd y te poem was s s, ost-ostes t em ile ch nce a t derlansakt hs Rks wes, aiith my f a e ws ho’s h etkw uh heanohld’y a sens malebrble cob d bs, a tiaays oith nto immers a y rbverstass, Breowa , wif f h id phots tte fl ee s n ady Mtrnk is a co t in ah lk oy’’s cit d l hen tt sd bhef McGarr anhin lde w eir p om Jol h my soetcah. chrtraie a o f f od o blisn B y s te, under ooetcah.w ad with its rlde vioe haut m ween t e h h , b t betkes t em is atnd al ws – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. ax. t MVP and ing t I am no Joyce scholar and have under my belt two failed attempts at getting all the way to the end of that one in which he wrote about the ‘ineluctible modality of the visible’, but I am struggling to put my finger on the what I am no Joyce scholar and have under my belt two failed attempts at getting all the way to the end of that one in which he wrote about the ‘ineluctible modality of the visible’, but I am struggling to put my finger on the what – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global horse-racing o screens. No c a Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global Ins et ad, there is a smd it wa ing the hhe harsh glare o horse-racing o screens. No chat oh t or cra avo arsh glare of to bh oar s inc atif fvecy co o d waotr tlg r m Df thh masters avoiding eiding eye conttact w tking its nam r craic. Jusurseople rple res loluttelly T king its name f uplit, of cot pusurse.o utch masters liic. J t was w er smoking in life, t at makracee ynu’ e sohter verlighh ps tve wa o me a pp acab f a c ir s t-shirt ron pausesos y occur-g ore perora ay f the Thut hs Re s w en p mle use tio b der out h htian adf y to mn imicltsh I was tna ha . Hfs. Thys i f hif e bd clk ern mm blit hm h s t-shirt rhg aiadlnloo rfs ‘Thcio reos e y occ e p seats a tts aftf er smoking in lifh h inside doour leaed tho mous folder (A2 size may e?) ab ring on te, tha in a . ‘Y ’ur le ir idleinp t y qtuickl’ in cy si e, under out how seats after smoking in lifh here t t m k Y ’t nour leaed th er verligh h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp aca le sadndats. Th ill ret seats after smoking in life, t t mak Y ’t nour leaed th er very quicklur v gio s y ta y to a . ‘I wi e our b f a cb f a c ring on the ter side do ’ r ug a inside do ’ r ug ring on te, tha in a . ‘racee ynu e sohte s op tlight’ in cursive, under . ‘I wiure o of his t-se exc ea g of his t-se exc ea g race. ‘ h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp aca tci le sadn at f his own, prh inted out in an s own, prh inted out in an happy!’ It’s one of thos hir hily to re happy!’ It’s one of thos hir h nt r ads ‘Th e a poem o ring on the terrace. ‘t m k Y ’t n . ‘I wiure o e ter side do ’ r en rd thmouotlight’ in cursive, une?) ab le sadnrdaatting it i lace ws w en peyopom th n imicltsh I was tna hesit . H e b hk ur eop h urf hih nt ads ‘Th e a poem o eroram tbe er ee?) abe, Breow ad with its c e a orement-ion e a plhp wa hin-e fs ow aat sen th y’re in otssyser tts estat in anenoug den a s aut a srot of in intdd bec e a orem tat- n tiinla g ous ar t a ss own, pvrersteee , Brut in afntian ad Mulligan & Haines urn momen aorut plde v bn s Re t sa e am t ehahrin’ co umpany, a si t of invnisthdd by t aptaMulligan & Haines apen io ou r aeugo e sps folder (A2 size mayb der out how re in otur s’ coomaen sar-s t oug den t r ads ‘Th e a poem oat shin-e from t e o reos y occurf hiuros e y occ le use t eir phones se tareir phones of his t-se exc ea gr en es, rare tlhat shine from tbe e ynt ne srotatte sg it io y quicklur v If you’re interested in food in Dublin, you’ve probably heard of the Bereen Brothers. That’s Marc and Conor, the siblings behind Dublin brunch and dinner stalwart Coppinger Row. Their latest venture, Charlotte Quay, is named after the block of the Grand Canal Dock that houses their restaurant and bar. The spot has previously been home to Mourne NUTBUTTER CITY LIMITS Nutbutter seats after smoking in lifh here tat mak Y ’ur lar ugh h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o mn imp acas ble sadn at seats after smoking in life, t at mak Y ’ur laug h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o mn imp acas ble sadn at ring on te, therrace. ‘ ring on the t n imicltsh I was tna hes . H e b k urn momentare w ace w ac gio s y ta y to an imicltsh I was tna hes . H e b k urn momentarof his t-se exc i y tealnges, ratreci e tlh dle le y race. ‘ e ynu e sohte s op t y qtuickl’ in cy si e, under s. Th ill ret t r ads ‘Th reos y occurt r ads ‘Th reos y occurBEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace seats after smoking on the terrace. ‘You’re so seats after smoking on the terrace. ‘You’re so happy!’ It’s one of thos hir h n es, ra e tlhat shine from the happy!’ It’s one of thos hir h n es, ra e tlhat shine from the gio s y ta y to ae. ‘I wli h I was thess. The back gio s y ta y to ae. ‘I wli h I was thess. The back h pa py,’ he stops to say to me. ‘I wish I was that h pa py,’ he stops to say to me. ‘I wish I was that happy!’ It’s one of those exchanges, rarely occurhappy!’ It’s one of those exchanges, rarely occure you re so ter very quickly e you e sohter very quickly l es t s e wi l retsahsy. Its estpany, a ent creh act-- Th PMAKINl Shelbourne Trinity Colling the s . B r h st Star atath b r s imm diate in GARRY ONhe Pavilion Bar at Tr n y Collinege se gs anra dingus wit n more t l esta e b g e se. ugh er ver GOOD SPORyTr at Thei iG A HtAotel SADDLE SUP The Horses H h hrumphrey’’s Stagag EIGHT OUND e 19e 19 The Horseshoe e s Hump Baoe Bar at The Shelbourne HiMti ES OF IuT n l, bd a d he phated Hotel thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association day and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. day and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. tail m h t e bll sive and mos onererurude h at o es yoyaca a e a mef Jaent l n to e thnd sblo t is a out th of tature of Jtoycea little dis d o a t esg gt e nh inhip wit enu c aims. Unlesotio Instead, th e ier s a smo d ing oe omint umlled rovof lishi ile high-ceilinge an d f cminluding repr duction a sf thee mistaken ab . Withh its gt. I m k roin d ceiling ao e t a and i poure ttus sd ps spot is no unquess ona mao eroag o carclrade-oudin hl hin po t ptio s o fair t n’ portra e oh w everabg’es. any teTHE HOME OF welll aTHE HOME OFle ision f re f id wa ts, ne ihing acucropor i it is aboub lent ths to ft sd sh l leguoayrcely hn Dues os, per o Mullligan & H ines is hegu ar y hl haostors balin thaar prroves a Mu ligan & Haines is h yessin r t ts t eir coc esp e t vadidn’t hause a libcern en mics ft mhts tit drin m i i tail menu coawe s o unquesn ootiot tby Bgsrae I a luirfuirf P rli o adjen st k Squa e to ir to it. I m kta e a ment l n n Duhilin, iinly wmista en about the nature of Jaoyceta h t tblin, atterins ac u lllts of G t the p ace f n Du s w rds inccasiona s aom, w age a The food is a beautiful mix of unfussy and intricate, delivered via a pleasin lg y precise menu. Three courses are €28, with substanStep Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1tial supStep Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 LOCATION IS QUAY Charlotte Quay pleasant beer garden so I make a beeline for it with my pint in tow. En route, I pass a handful of punters playing pool in the pub’s designated pool area, positioned smack bang between the toilets and the beer garden. Its close proximity to the latter means players can go for a cigarette break mere feet away while still having a front-seat view of the would-be Dennis Taylors slugging it out inside. Handy! I plonk myself down at a repurposed keg where I remain for the evening. The pub is home to a restaurant known as The Joshua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no F r Forttuna elt ly McGarry’s is home to a perfec y o unate y McGarry’s is home to a perfectlytl ye con ac Tai h each otherrom s a e y pleasant beer garden so I make a beeline for it with my pint in tow. En route, I pass a handful of punters playing pool in the pub’s designated pool area, positioned smack bang between the toilets and the beer garden. Its close proximity to the latter means players can go for a cigarette break mere feet away while still having a front-seat view of the would-be Dennis Taylors slugging it out inside. Handy! I plonk myself down at a repurposed keg where I remain for the evening. The pub is home to a restaurant known as The t wati h each other..roe f m stat ltely, pl, plump Buck Mulligan and Haines, the otherwise unnamed English student who stays with Mulligan, this Dame Street bar occupies what was once Sweeney’s Mongrel, what was once Le Cirk, but not unpleasant. From the starters, hearth grilled vegetables are just that, with some carrots, radishes and beets sharing a plate with some fresh curds. I would like a deeper kiss of smoke from that hearth, as you might find in Clanbrassil House. It is the arrival of the second starter however that widens eyes around the table. Grilled cauliflower, burnt yeast, trout might just sound like a collection of things but boy, do they enjoy each other’s company! That burnt yeast, a slick of beige emulsion across the plate is a flavour epiphany, bursting with umami and tang, elevating the vegetable and the pink petals of fish flesh to the sublime. Orbs of roe pop on the tongue for a briny coup de gras. This is really quite something. Of the two pastas we share a bowl of Comté Mulligan and Haines, the otherwise unnamed English student who stays with Mulligan, this Dame Street bar occupies what was once Sweeney’s Mongrel, what was once Le Cirk, ravioli in a turbid mushroom ‘broth’. It is rich (perhaps too rich for one) and brilliantly executed. There are just two mains, both served ‘Family Style’ for sharing. A beautifully cooked thick tranche of brill, served with a mussel and cockle sauce and paired with ramekins of smoked eel and potato ‘salad’ will live with me for some time. Venison loin served with a profusion of mushrooms and incredible salt-baked Nutbutter Forbes Street Grand Canal Dock Dublin 2 www.nutbutter.ie Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s e pkuy boittth the onset oaf one u e y Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s ump Buck BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM I’m told that there’s no pickle brine for my douchey martini but the Negroni that replaces it works like popping a pacifier in a baby’s mouth. Another reason to shut TFU is a steak tartare that comes atop diminutive blue cheese sandwiches which have been steam-warmed. It’s a statement of intent. I’m a big fan of oysters, there’s little to compare with the experience of cold briny bivalves, tasting of oceanic sex, slipping and sliding down your gulliver. I’m a fan of cooked oysters too. Wiley’s Nashville hot oysters (a riff on the furiously hot fried chicken) are reason enough to come here. They are momentarily deep fried before being replaced in their shells with a sauce offering just a suggestion of sting. Sublime. Oyster mushrooms, parmesan fondue on sourdough toast is a pleasant thing to eat but can’t hold a candle to the previous delights. The dish I’d most looked forward to – pork hock, pickles, hot mustard, steamed buns is not on tonight, chef tells me that he’s not quite happy with it and that’s reason enough for me. It’s back on now and I will be back for it. Venison chilli is a deeply involving bowlful, profoundly savoury BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 Locks 1 Windsor Terrace launch their Christmas lunch menu on Wednesday 2nd December. Featuring a dazzling array of things tpo do,ioy? ro a www.thehideout.ie ment’s list of priorities Special mention must go to sommellier Vanwww.thehideout.ie A SITE FOR GLAD EYES y ct woly rank highly on the manaage-b bly A SITE FOR GLAD E’t is so exquisite y le,, rn d al s potter in a d o t for sm nt demokds and ch y In a neigd f ur oohood that ce weeee s s tess ta lifeless post-An elue ort r b rrns isn o Itt’ ur urin tious and rea e f ble, the defini - us a, sure. Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, ’ Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Harold’s Cross Rd, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W 01 406 6936 Harold’s Cross Rd, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W 01 406 6936 places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, Web exclusive content also. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Featuring a dazzling array ogf things tro do,s a soht tlid option. and its responsibility to both sell lasagne and McGarry’s 236-238 McGarry’s 236-238 celeriac silences the table yet again. At €50 and €60 respectively, these are generous sharing plates and examples of masterful, assured cooking. The solitary dessert, a Jamaica Cake with caramelised pineapple and coconut cream makes a mockery of the concept of choice. We get the last portion and stare at the clean plate moments later. Rody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd Rody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd Locks 1 Windsor Terrace 1 Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8 01-4163655 locksrestaurant.ie places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, Web exclusive content also. Web exclusive content also. Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION Web exclusive content also. ness owned by the Kirwan brothers, the food offering at Nutbutter is best enjoyed when taken outside of the context of “clean eating.” It’s healthy food that tastes good and happens to be mostly plant-based, sometimes raw, and occasionally sprinkled in goji berries. I like Murray’s approach when he explains that he doesn’t think of plantbased food as a lifestyle choice or a restrictive diet. “We want our menu to be accessible to everyone and to add to the choice of what’s on offer elsewhere,” he says. “One night you might eat Italian at home, the next you might have a Thaiinspired meal. The third evening you might come out to Nutbutter for a plant-based dinner.” That sounds like a balance that I can get behind. LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie for a more enthusiastic, informed and charming guide. Who knew that the vignerons of Chateaux Margaux, Haut-Brion, Cheval Blanc and Mouton-Rothschild had been doing it wrong for so long. There’s a genuine feeling here of worthwhile endeavour, that you as a patron are a part of it, or perhaps in on it. So here we Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie are. A destination restaurant in The Liberties. Whatever next? ADVANCED PICOSURE® ADVANCED PICOSURE® ancic for her wine programme. I’ve been tain sniffy about the modish ‘natural wine thing’ for some time, filing it under acquired taste, along with fisting and balut. Her pairings from a fully minimal intervention list have gone a long way to convincing me that not all such wines need to taste of cider or a befouled barnyard. It’s not quite a Pauline conversion but one couldn’t ask Web exclusive content also. and rich, shot through with the fresh heat of jalapeños and balanced with gouts of cooling sour cream. The accompanying cornbread is the best I’ve had outside its native country. If it’s not on the menu you should petition for it. The dish that many will gravitate to is, of course, the fried chicken. They would be right to do so. Right now it is hands down the best in town. Perfectly moist thigh meat encased in a salty, spicy coating. The biscuit is perfect, the corn slaw more than an afterthought. Go get it. Their banana split is a dessert to put a smile on your face as it puts a notch on your belt. At least two of our party are instantly infantilised. Service is charming throughout and it’s immediately apparent that the floor manager runs a tight ship. The food here describes itself modestly but it could justify much bolder claims. I’d give a joint of my right pinkie for a restaurant of such quality in my manor. For the lucky denizens of D7, this is all the neighbourhood restaurant they will ever need. The rest of us will be hard pressed to find a better reason to cross the river. This is a North Star to follow. the necessary sustenance. I stay in t cats true last of the ev ch th y dit o e side. I c seaso e aegu r d delicio s, t u attenn a n Ition an by exhibiting style and substance. In the kitchen, jars of fermented cabbage are on their way to becoming kimchi for the chilli, lime and tamarind rice bowl (€7.50). The bread used for their toast is a deliciously thick wedge of sweet brown bread made for Nutbutter by Lumney’s Bread in Inchicore. Their Nutella-style cacao and hazelnut spread (€3.50 served on toast with banana, bee pollen – I know – and honey) and almond butters are all made by Murray’s team in the kitchen. Similarly to Sprout & Co, the plant-based busiWeb exclusive content also.y circle of puff pastry da Iv Whereas pubs of this ilk ha e a cer Saturda Is it w Is ilearrth crorth crossing the bridge f lr? P An apple tart on a cr.sfacebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ ingly detlicio n n and its responsibility to both sell lasagne and chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday and Saturday clearly rank highly on the management’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain of al Il n’s untpretentiouks tg coos and reaskonable, the definition chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday and away e lif less pos of ‘i ’s grand forgets their worries, even tem orar i p of ‘it’s gra d, sure.’’d comforting t ah t the eater ossing the bridge for? Prob bly , much likt-A ge th lhs, McGa ry’s i s unpreten responsibility to be all things to all men when they operate in relative geographical isolation, it all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Dublin that makes you feel like you’re having a pint in Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps this curious unDublin quality is the very thing that attracts much of their clientele. Having recently visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs would be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin to a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style bar/ restaurant – useful for both family dining and unavoidable work drinks. This dubious distinction alone assures Rody’s position within the Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW responsibility to be all things to all men when they operate in relative geographical isolation, it all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Dublin that makes you feel like you’re having a pint in Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps this curious unDublin quality is the very thing that attracts much of their clientele. Having recently visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs would be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin to a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style bar/ restaurant – useful for both family dining and unavoidable work drinks. This dubious distinction alone assures Rody’s position within the Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW with salt caramel and praline ice cream stays true to its origins while delivering a flair of finesse. The elements in the chocolate tart with stout ice cream and a condensed plum sauce (adding another €4 to the menu) are too intense on their own but work really well as a mouthful. Our bill, which includes two bottles of still water and two macchiatos, comes to €104, excluding tip. This restaurant may have gone through a not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. facebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. lot but it’s still a beautiful room over-looking the canal, with really lovely food and service. It doesn’t appear that this team is chasing a Michelin star. Nonetheless, it’s certainly still a treat to eat there. regularn os p tter in an hut i eighbhbourh eer garden for two pints and v f the evenings rays. A l the w 11/11/2015 10:08 ocus. Ad tll of than f 11/11/2015 10:0811/11/2015 10:08 e meg’s rays. Alll the whi hat can feek’l a li le ses me BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM A SITE FOR GLAD Elf on any w a d wi h ao-etatin-Dublin-bef s a tr ou-die lie-yu u-die li tasnicles, baut it pvoure rovides mulliganandhaines.iet a s an t o aepper l room p position to te . room pie. It won’t fl.lind itself on an a in-D b This ior the necessary sustenance. u lin-before-yo dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cocktails. y mund d hib bly tas ldn’nit want to b acon an position to te ar s, we wouol , oenioun, by mou ere e seus - e bar fly wh t-to-eatan ttt was aclesa p t ist a miess, it sh of Pintur ose mo db d th car usto lleepe waer uovdo - e sun an’ portvtcy compace n sig pnd k nions. I fld old I e s many televpsiollay behind a cage – Dutce sun a of relat raits, ngeo t pronoge and old Ir h whis ub’s mtles on disps i y b hind a cage – up t, of cot p . f ca ly j s ers a m, wo idshile high-ceiestged, is us om d rot o id-ters of the o s not thshma h of Pinterlin e wa l bor uinn hmaserveo d a pink e place for day-drinesing eso Dublin’s Best B.Y.O.B pool hall. v sit co y thn biine t p cia o s ick w tuinn e pizzas. I order b in bv hces me to sng STEP INSIDE The Hideout warming and climate change, the winter months in Dublin would stretch interminably from August to April. As students we would go to any lengths to find shelter anywhere on campus that didn’t house a library. That meant drinking in the bowels of the Buttery Bar, just off Parliament Square. With its groined ceiling and sloppily poured pints of Guinness, it served a purpose and the occasional bout of listeria seemed a fair trade-off for the warmth and keenly priced beverages. It was with the onset of our too brief sumwarming aln goalimere is nhs not t tside one wge th er mo uthsorgiven for revo ve oahr From t w lo k first camle establishm tio h en o araln I must admit to a measure of opportunism in my choice, we had been invited to join family at their table in The Saddle Room for dinner - and it seemed like a fitting moment to perform the old two birds, one stone manoeuvre. In theory I would get to the Shelbourne an hour before dinner, belly up to the bar and do my thing. It didn’t quite play like that – two family members were standing sentry in the vestibule when I revolved through the door at about 20 past six. So be it. Walking out of the white early-Summer light I m t admi into a m g a ou t t e waorrtr thac e osl of th-e baae n y asur t of o my chpende ne had bhe do v n their t es a et to t taps th o av didn’ eghe gs a s ng ns atlcohd a. Itytve- g e se. dinner, belg thl their sny utp to t t S De b bnle 19. Thiid do my thinan an I wou immeld g e ities; t e twlho pu e be minimh p o e essen a rin Thugs, b g campaig s a e reah old two birdug ne s onuat. Speaeuvree an auxifs off their a f g Trader i he sigded their o ly iden i it seemean t led lik se a fi pttin o ta r v lica nt blished cockf tih a m pt it is no rader iking in tn th liar abt blis Smytens; Hr” of The Ra oor dinnert stin s a “ lean towards silli o f te lickt tesbliuhse vert seug oice d abo t e teeao th hri e g T ents aumpreets Da o the r s, o Thh-h Th n qawe Rag Tlit ne my of the signage oliefofrys an menthe r it h-hh e Rawn qt hlity o o s ffdr e ese o tarly sly identied o of wds s g moemenkking in term efi l h un aub” t t hin so t e lop s mor . Ierm ery set of seem Wet tam S ver b’ e dista. Add thro t; eem uet to foe loer be discus eh o of whet itt is no a of tu es arnn auxi ier ougies; t tee two puabe be min ur befoa os wn s leiny were s at londin (€4.80) leabint ot ent e i hot to c, ta g adot ne bkeer ga, s enat – twt g s t qui re peaer gai re tas, b th with a q liina t g brawers eh g a liatt colo uoies, ms th o be desired adorne bd sig Thl he ibboo dougies, m y mling betbuinn h i , s a s n low-sta es a indepenili y tht le so ur v y o et urs thh p d c l h (€4.80) lew-stak enmiavili h h t co ulo le wg t ace. Thee pair es atry in tty t aese v tibmethine sp ween tess t eir snugs, b th boy t oash artf v l y lilk hrden by tt o l Dubhlih p in Dublin w So be iot.uStage 19’cs n w lo k firat c g o my atten on h r p enll of the b ’s bur er ning relation ld s asst umineg th o August to Akn hl ea hapg te d to h e ehi e tr o diffy-Sero t g re ah s spf th ts wv a a llegummer ligtion ur b r e er aacenh uu h e b ft mances of the lobby intlo t e Horses os, ph e bar proves a e nae loubby into tnywing j m pub r Waprinl o i . Arintudenll of the b ’s bld g nin s p with adjacent music co litotle di co ra t. Thaoge se s iheir cock sive alims. U e But lf coinude hurg e I am deeplu tes yoy ca p e of Jh adjh n Derblin tlh asnd oparning. Th, aeanthan g o ea hing ta p eed to h e tav arwo diffgeo t entrancewa-ys. hi g out oenee w ate wwroluurgeo t entny cetwa-ys. gd tl hoaroe c hae oge ho c h e the game, bnt fill a gap. . y a ent nent that d sig indephbdendens, b h w h a q lit em ys thess Ft m t nu h ne wbinotuld even be f ey w e randing ca er miab denh o familu , betf Guinn aving a little somethine s aceg to be desired t 20 pau ot enugith artfuoav y of G een t e pair en I . The . or sepg coint ereh nys t eposedly tin arau g tete t wo svue-posedly eing l assumineg thero er ret h in e mine a sin t y wer sbly fre tm en ouuld even be fo m ttorgioiven for amle establishment tnat nf thles d a tbly r s t r aeqlth of our lo l music aerly r anco cernpen mics fo e s ygt an gts. Dk-s perhe d m d alf coin , it r e on campus that erformances rnin . Th, asingr the s udenloom i it , j m deeplu to adj ygudenloking int out t e na ure o loycear day-dr ping. The lesin y ju t a mis e warmth a n tions. I feel likd ’ on signart een y prl like Im eem d a d, is ur too brief sumerk t . The eeice e I’m , i uesqth of oaur loml mtusic at thi pp do ts. D -s perhe s windowesp e t vast e, BIMM - The e Ht m sic co legeat, BIMM - The osting jam erugh the do r aoant a e game, bst fit six.ll a gap. Stage 19’s ne outside one wo e te a sing o di h hsig t in o te aieen arfofdre re f threne bn a ythinlt-listing coing t e to gnd h t warhs a cer a t. S neg-es a l e Shha caat. Botsig t inus wp catrinoetbh e inh se bt ht lic houses aded their o ere i oo doooas epara verehlic, olieape r b pacioto tmtaign morset oahe t l estate pu -g l pacioe 19. Thirimlcoholic, otli hind rawo su v heen a o r s a cer hin s g-esn ntas in t eir rkthi h the lens o perseorm toaet; ound the citky cen re roiu d a he lens b” t torreets Da oc s hd t c ug aunt, ess in t eir r ts o a eir a t,enet o s fd cohrefi l h pende next do k o thoa. Wer o joy more poprriuta , t e le in Th h’e Saddle R m f tetter or f tindls a “ d ab “bache doe co siderablin fauch by aier h o s ef lurb h rd establismyth is; Hlliarm S ehr ’oe citky cen re roiued aelh ty sister or we y sister ove tk und ths, f e my morefurbiuhard hm W’ts aumphrey’ g T ett td Shm “bac o t oy’s, for ba. At ver - anorse, ect y int, t estiner to te o f a md btini g a s sus or t” of The Rah r b e to realize tht of a my o o suc s sarsr- u, tee vo r en in t thd t rader f us handpt t er ctiner to t e asse waa han painerd depicbtion o sidera under i Rane evious guise a em clos v one’s eye il s imm ee , oth lr ey drawd b k wall of the baryy ain d depicbiohe anumy ano thin h tmingllar only under i Rane evious guise a ump iade aveo one’s eye il s imm e s quickly m ts prlcaagsh pub s e e; H b atio v , otr ely dra y a an ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the S DRINKINT OUG St ON CLOUD SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader York Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having operated as a bar since 1661, and the essentially untouched Victorian interior that you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Reilly in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention of its name elicits in many a knowing smile and an assurance that it’s one of the preeminent venues in town for dates that you don’t particularly want anyone you know stumbling across. The root of this association remains someSOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader From tg time – a fache de From tg time – a fache de abo On ap ideac wo umpe rey’s, I ki elv y sew it wa nce way. As we On ap ideac woe perennial r d-hairh b s probably a bad review Hut thhr lat v y sew it wa nce way. As we review Hut thhr lat inhe moment t t reflecsiocited in the thr inhe moment t t reflecsiocited in the thr proa. Thrg St g d a em ahr, th ep-co some e ual attir d ass The Teahrpy’s i ace rsn kshtaf osiest d proa. Thrg Staur way t n lim entra hinked oe pertennial rsed-hair d intteesloseg a toun ossumeppy o unism in tu r ot d l , w ext door tlize te cotn here mosed dir cp l p ace to loedian wa e ven sa n tyt h rag particu g y t p ace to lo dia e ven saen tyt h g par icue ven ured ts prlcaagsh pub s e e; Hcen s umlpg veohs i aclit e ea ation was quickly m no thin h minalrly ac e c aboumpe rey’s, I ki el n lim entra ual a aur way t ettug d s t r th tire 19, bhroer k owh b ep-co suome s-e y’e rea’t ty o aur si cen ss Thble Tegenuts n thild of thf our situi , t li Bea’t akshtage e uts n thild of th li B lit e e wade appe cent as w l k wal tlher. Si paren s we v, e was n t rmi a s e o South ls e o South an ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the arbtlini glather. Sit er or for worse aps th ua blic hs more a ag sen a s an lisa urnh n h set of thtiose pulwn sltly t ed ierathd with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from a nhere was n e osh bu l or. W errader fed dirost r e peotly int n was m ongs milling n was m ongs milling s probably a bad ade to ade to hinked oge 19, bhroer kd s tling businesse ettug nowling b sines with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from snt ty oge,siesttul enture JAMESON tDublin’s Best B.Y.O.B pool hall. the dirt Humphrey’s lo Fvks goany, the emar e b o draytn fr m a av 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 y work. 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 The Horseshoe Bar at The Horseshoe Bar at The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 085-2357664 085-2357664 The Pavillion Bar The Pavillion Bar The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 s on tao us , anagineeraasure pretzelar y t e tle h A g with th t. Frankly, despit et a sd ge their s ort- ble avian counterpart, w A Pe co ceaue im and nigh lawless a e A Pndy’s face is fuml ps. M o a rn ing co cetaiog not a blan u bt t y hrn ae ten r sf c sents the little webbed f are drin et ainke drape and buew t s t rgn sur r sept to mth d it Thhy h led b rasitreisd tl Cr llm anp recen y ah d it the water. One might appear more impres v f chhrac m ats atssace ued scrermyout n but it’d be nothing wHumphrey’sitho o coonth the limeligrhe n harac er, c m io The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie r a do in a cot in a coitur ue impqk repre-side. Fi h et. n in no uese o out tee o avbs Stage 19 anles and drink thr €14 – iskeels like a happn, whi m deal after th n sho ld b. Ftin tod als, ter ba.y ohe Pus ry bes “a shte bae ao caa-s Stage 19 nd un rene tao pl bad b o cnion s orde so w d f less.) A per n tion… a drhkk oh, I decide t the m Unfts. A Uimsts. A be lotorkoing forward to an encore.t h less.) A per ecd a co pug pecired looking A ropicatio su . Utunate iyine totp o t n. Alf h e i e tet go d thinnd Io’m lesr o gn sur rhicd. Rpo a pn inetd I’m les k wallnd t, an attemve their lead from Ulysses ideals and characters – each one bolder than the next.” Curiously, the menu doesn’t list the ingredients of each cocktail, instead providing a somewhat bewildering and hyperbolic description of the sensations you might expect to endure while drinking it. I plump, stately-ily, for The Big Buck, a “wild a de l afpr dict ble ’em outside with gas tio eli our m aying foh in the loco ua thy e naotrera s whso t edt trderav has loog baen a destintrty b y a s t on their lead from Ulysses ideals and characters – each one bolder than the next.” Curiously, the menu doesn’t list the ingredients of each cocktail, instead providing a somewhat bewildering and hyperbolic description of the sensations you might expect to endure while drinking it. I plump, stately-ily, for The Big Buck, a “wild about 6pm on Friday – peak after-work drinkabout 6pm on Friday – peak after-work drinkDrury Street’s latest arrival h, t e Rag Trader, at Drury Street’s latest arrival h, t e Rag Trader, at My companions and I darkened the door of My companions and I darkened the door of eye over the respec a le s aded tof crafl I die Club’r p oper ce at ta tne de uvt ih’e bn t we o thro bw ack though. On prt a’s fiudderiktag ts aa e b s m t ads, di e eroble ntblin be oer anpd s a b er o c . Tho red the do h. ubp e etvd thfatr’sope an deed holders.s o ce oe thrh hlald (es t, fa se ceourina th Surlat waoos yp , in t ese mis spe scene, smaeer . That bein re ro, t r N lec in paces that pr r o a ltack of inte wo rom ownersot in thre gncee oood way. The Sam Step erce ih es o hw at th te-en ereg erteld spudg om m ian an dehed h lders.s oetce hg t, in thte mi ssicit losost ot os t t oug m s mnin ing a vaing t eres m asv uo his die goo ue t in a aco a l bk of int enst fn desig n hip ad b ytrh’s isrt udes again takin ep ene sn designed bble business a uthgain te cin lky jg on t sohade of valua ar protrudes in roto t e avmmef thit ade of vaeld-limned space like a b phi h e lens. Th f the ry that p obreviding a hote a oushe f h a celtic tiger ts sm intop e c s. Thf th lited-limn d space lik s, th anity oe reae lelify the t aoviding a hot k bhousy tor a scenn h t’ hings) I’m s tim einalte D blin Brt tad Ct ht t oer vp h enues ma- y the co bmm, te dilohn etplhruml ublin Bread Ctod oip ter ve soe dir t, d b t h p tro tositiovfiest od I rlit a y suhrt I want a co-c tail. rassy tongue ane rea ea s ll by defini ion do kes tail. h so mucor a scene t a n When i nad b e sahtcy, desiccaating p n oa em s. Bo, viusitteder batrini’’e dierrn corner o ort, m er g oho ce maao r exa waluode 10 of d r bho se o tim Sur , a nenoenn, its loc f off-k ln thether iy St n u h-e- y t e es in W nder o oer bco bmmls epone y mus n t min , Md oany enues mayas - p mullti-di ciner olin e campun thnounarotot t g Rocks,w h that hist razy J and a E ti Thisem in Dublinflin be vert s mlrtp wh inatguemo t e innluco coi a anrwn ovsetua ll r fce t vaf oer if babe at std v hrhip t aa e unpnral s tnpsd ntapotrasne ofn, unmo-t o n ant buer n E a liq te aan , yin d r k: ain hah a f the ve aion o V “b nter” next doeplucg wly dra t hit er s r tves tscipf tohr e nagpus aigstt oiw fto m mo-er h olde 10 oh Ul ade op e bar itsh , e td whlat waomn erb le, a li t osoetts o voy on gn a m , a ne n mn bg pletio lhinl f off-kif tlhe fact t y md b t mtuin coi-di ur n a y aame thh e act of co h andp . ot a millio mes to cocktaaiadlls (ant losost othern mh t not a milliona ethine if dra ly, n , t tini, a cr e are ms oown, ihodka. I twdd nh t t oa es sure sways mey’ore toas lother h entjo e sou ’der d d w o ad as hsinhing of a cle p sts of Jlf Jlourcea be sahty, desiccat e n tn oures oomr any, vuts - a the, tg taeh d y) c y par hings) I’y re f cr ken o initih t o pcae we wphrey’ae s ts ob, it’ioolsund to sindory – va oder ooad venue thioo hiytthi em a t h lways m u hreroes in Wuoe ts a ld hns loqua es oe t em in Dl rony blin b carat sspes t e acavaae a ng s . p suae stpidd oohvliug c’ere blysueoembahs. trs o rprssinual o ee. This is a Thae sa ouded n r in w locatior desigle Hy in k emn m n n bebi, it’o bs h rd to sin o y – h tn hl r les York Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having operated as a bar since 1661, and the essentially untouched Victorian interior that you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Reilly in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention of its name elicits in many a knowing smile and an assurance that it’s one of the preeminent venues in town for dates that you don’t particularly want anyone you know stumbling across. The root of this association remains someatmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping tlest t? W im H linlk aers a throwback though. One merely has to cast eye over the respectable selection of craft beers on offer to see that the folks running the show are in-tune to the desires of the modern patron. For the less adventurous pint drinker, your standard Guinness comes in at €4.70, pretty reasonable for a town pint. Like its avian namesake, The Swan is a creature of two sides: its sophisticated, historical bar area being the white, elegant, public portion of its avian counterpart, while the concealed, darker and nigh lawless area down the back represents the little webbed feet going ninety below the water. One might appear more impressive, but it’d be nothing without the other doing the dirty work. necio t m t he €4.70, pretty reaso a thtaos lan or rse soo v ley low-budget bts hrp eninw a b an ors mig e sis imag rt lia drinker, your stan ard Guinn is a lo g atgat tn tn hq , doetino , wae ment is ol liesr giro modern patron. For t a e nowc py’s pr uc screet f ths-ts hooming, M enj tj iderbg sle ah ss epuco omoue c u tlesth t? W s sureihne burrenk o s p r t mh d thlr a glligadn &d ‘ig- h ih bj hinerio thhen ie yay a majt thi ling a d t lob iom hich mor ca t a t der ole a oy rhip t a orerith a nns tnns y bs deftls. St g lio ility o e hver denhen th hoaos mim arro ouhi H b o g popu ai h a ts “plin o ever y ts sg abour e r de lg a bs, ipuout f eyodig- h riged by t lg at wen ies, w n imsig s th s, ths p e faç crat ssf tace Jigsaef t lf mbining liqh r ame entir ary a s tlott s ortpos in Ulr e w e o res s s hagueV “y vterer” nhich mor caages t gue re Hl umh seemines t nfs hl a ce tceice t rn hazy J drerae w ouext doep g wnfh thd b e dcere y erion w ere ine s t a v u a an a enderos. Iund a drerant e wth seoa agn b blo bpund bhe dcere yos. Iune Where the two markedly differ is in their atmosphere. That being said, the idea of ascribing a value judgement based on this divergence in ambiance is somewhat thorny. Smyth’s is routinely jammed with well-heeled denizens of this, the leafiest of the leafy suburbs. Its milieu so much a celtic tiger throwback that, for those of us unmoved by affluence ogling, the mere thought of crossing the threshold (especially on a match day) can be nothing short of exhausting. Humphrey’s on the other hand, whether it strives to or not, manages to cultivate an absoers. Thisintviktinon o is utterly seamless, they even share a bathroom. Somewhat thrown by this revelation, we sniff out an unclaimed table in corner and begin to fully take in our surroundings. The first thing that strikes you is that the s m y ao cos, stai s (aod mt oh is utterly seamless, they even share a bathroom. Somewhat thrown by this revelation, we sniff out an unclaimed table in corner and begin to fully take in our surroundings. The first thing that strikes you is that the a inag oit n t e se re NO UGLY DUCKLING The Swan rasse f ngue a d I reali back that, f W en it co ires t fkuen a lh NO UGLY DUCKLING The Swan ropositio a o tirs unmoveire ma g of a clas en e, t ee Dly kw gwhrn ve ocgate on , w lysses. h a ing. H ery knade o hon a few dra eraunn t u qo otrr’h-eas , a onymlk. Floouo-ceiy m s hn vodka. I t ad ny Sin rr era io asg s o o iasures of the dirity mary n abs p auw generaeole us ra e t tf exhahasitte r ade o lin ace J n w fs lo ining u e atpidd olig c’ere buinum. A n inesd t tlegh f euor anos ouv ooy in ke emae w trs on inesd te a gurlce a an rn o y ady wnend de eti h ‘ce spoug ndwaiches s t ey’h e o e ey admirablert ann thf pl ornense islthaa. This mean ing t esaeqdh e ah conn ionn sio in ems frove d. A o m n s a m i tioh ic t ra ks t int th Aepe samtn u. Thid Ms sy’n wd pipumpowa s casWw dg f razzleve l o, naot nal Disese ory beers on offer to see t klaxodo R ut iivarls noct wh ur pra sper ce e w, wn.th a ur ogs oks r it al as t n oly h der d. Alet , w t b hin rudder g t a . Thveoune soou he tetn) b t al Is toun the show are in-tune t a e nowoug e tn tn s, m uin aor gy sizeld curo wa ogs og o d w co p ace fgs a g morh-aps t e one wilt tl e p corahtion t e r s strbjuceae er r s a b i er y has tthe inairtos kl ee etctiold Blei lct g a r waan youg he b r, o n b prt t rape orint. Llt cor onf g udgn eps und awaradre tl h t her loiohs hy’ e se r its avian namesa ek , The S s th urThn iray neaet s s efo agor n t. Wiashl e wary o “ keteazee eser , hl b’m in Thtquisitiur Sero goinit col y) refurbed drt t o f pin p two sides: its sophistic G pl Rtohets a pang o e 19 i o t. Wh s cu aim tk dta e being the white, elega fla bhind it? Mo left in t Thlore y ne e recenf sule h lcos Nef hvor, t ke ds hi lao th tuht. A eais clefp s sinwa y onor t y to dr thtini in t d tp stey (acke tas immee. latel m br yo t rae M&H co. kv silh diaim to “ k m caaratn aeld, hn’es c pos s qts j ist likre tlcahih t co at d ca Atureicy licdknic ure M&H co. kv a marass hnyo nt, pnelic piniugh orep in plg Utaying fy compar the f ets hier pa t the men lf bh k t Hf t eir lo th that co wld bl e co h f g s u o l sh mulliganandhaines.iet a s and prd pepperoted f, oeinniou, b n, by mo th was in no th was in n exper s p , its t h s s e v ces me tl, bng ig t now, o e p ht like prd parobably tast d feni in , b t m t les ime I chautt re th t macon an l ie. It won’t f lind itseYEShat-t u d musho at could b ort o ogansiderh s exper sttice wits ttoue im s I’fm feelin le o in is f idyllic pmer orn tons.nf drt e tune ts nun l he tradif the b s (€9.50 ele mpach) fall wounacorlit oor r ing U apteinhich pusa ioes “ s, two puce-e of ideanlif idethlised o ors wmer orn tons.m-” lt facetn a, which promisn f r t s I’fm feelin le of te o era enuooanlike its nh sogart amescakaa, ie t o s a serttletion s be loorkoing forward to an encore.ils (€9.50 each) fall the men f ep ild cost m ennie immh di td cily afftaer drag l y sw et tf run-osio o taton. I w eli l baloa kiin the men o uren tf gin as R ransg esrider t e-milll bavr bit ites as gers, ahd sat a a ee in thivegs pletaceble er ysd debad i er es dokarhert fs swgogrer yavg aroun u l o si ets of r sgresint wh e I h e to s er fingly swuchero the po r s s agg ef bacs we ff tk out a t es dep T ankle couc t gy eun n j , b amesc k a ien ll, iienillce wle tith das still rsulina es ooost guetvaiouisor y viisit cony t e time I cha t e to Gtuinni h thn a nig we l as p tizzae ‘the Star Wt tn o ts lid steeat stat y aili s plttable wou s, be syrupy en s a er S g th s pe sy u urgers, ahe basee of the g al sretacerse n a pts) i so se p l o its gat d t ver w f-the-mider whact it ininsg t thizzar py ends at tne b h ks. A r ter draining looks good in a functional way. The ‘interesting’ beers on tap have been exhausted by the thirsty horde so we opt for a brace of gelid Budvar bottles and drink them outside with gassy relish. Life is good. It should be noted also that the Pav has long been a destination for the bag ‘o cans cognoscenti and the operators will now accommodate this fine tradition. After a couple more rounds we fork out a tenner for a four-pack of Tyskie and it goes down just fine. As college opens its gates ever wider to tourists (flocking to see ‘the Star Wars library’) and civilians (with the heinous ‘Summer Series’ of concerts) it’s possible that the Pav will come to feel just that bit less special, but right now, on a night like this, we wouldn’t want to be anywhere else. le th wks. She i e w smts ut in t ce tin fou lhlesis o wn t o uesle o,f lumzen in ngirler a’hicturs oe ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one o puanaegemen s coside. Fitting y, thp g thd. R -unk draplk drao esding a tr m leink g ng ninle y b lowo fohaet. , rttd a vd founding ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one e drlo sw et a t e a mfo ft in resignin ie thic f hlyorrem d e ir ai pq f whrut H o lotump no a rn es im eet yorreor e o concea Thh l a der a Btt aid tl Crealer, c anp r uecentl.y a o anything ae o l an a ing old fashio nned dependin race of gelid Budva t od unsld fa hiop dicd fble” whit fe o erwn fs a di h of mini t st.d pnaf sopaysk w e ‘in eresting’ eferf Sms uer h’s a diw s is f llp h e been exh et a sd g t d b u arly hirsty comings, ae opor €14 – i n tg o ehe inls litke a h fappy-hour oane’s miesah hraoni; its pros ini. Rll the besr Life is gy companio a ets hi a faced cpiopior the four o er pa ron tat cogecd a coi anp d tin ispf idtyllic pill no co urcenft es depicting differs li ieso u or una e y e toth cohe be r tt o s a serttlere re l sdklit H heir loh t d oy cler ficr a fd a paciot er er anoscentug pecired lo king A ro ow acco” t i. Unlihis fld t, bo h coiokt ir t er antion… a drf tkk oh, I decide to co ur ktd th wall, the rest of the space dotted with tables that gradually thin the closer one gets to the stage. Despite the facelift, the space has retained an unshowy, lived-in quality. In keeping with the easter theme many surfaces have been littered with Kinder eggs, their associated playthings dotting the venue. I pick up a replica jeep dwarfed by my thumb. Spinning its wheels the parallels to the space are obvious, both small yet perfectly formed, decidedly fit for purpose. Bravo, Stage 19, this patron will most certainly wall, the rest of the space dotted with tables that gradually thin the closer one gets to the stage. Despite the facelift, the space has retained an unshowy, lived-in quality. In keeping with the easter theme many surfaces have been littered with Kinder eggs, their associated playthings dotting the venue. I pick up a replica jeep dwarfed by my thumb. Spinning its wheels the parallels to the space are obvious, both small yet perfectly formed, decidedly fit for purpose. Bravo, Stage 19, this patron will most certainly ers li ies o to sweosider a Bn r e t ut a btlonh etaace um, or t thee oavbs ace o, tod ie p ocihath rd a v tin uver ice gt o unr h a vendy a fa l ac tic ff dras u rom asn imagine aaure pretzels.tic o a oythinod in a fre simiok eer of s After dinner, I return an nr m o unr it wrof nter dinn a, I return an ert for a b t f e d c a, ws of ind with these criticisms since the wholly phoned in nature of what Humphrey’s does implies the management’s comfort in resigning themselves to a position on the second tier, removed from both the limelight and its associated scrutiny. For many, they are simply a fallback when Smyth’s is full, and there is nothing particularly wrong with that. Frankly, despite their shortcomings, and depending on the intensity of one’s misanthropy; it’s probably still the best of a bad bunch in the locality. Faint praise indeed. ohe bacle of lpruoses n y gttingly, ts neg oscrni is deem. Wor ed e pulled the dra’p w tos t ra l inugh es s w ticierpon me ae cou o he drink away es no lot eer al’ ictuscrni is de . W oir nu epeae wk on mg hs I put tesist his dy’s face is far erlzen inpaosps. Mhrgy’ s neg opet led d ere le wa he wr t avine ae could r e wonsreld to see. y girs dod dird dis of hllies th ing co cea er ice g t all wema k d. The barm, oran gamely ceaher do ence or e g at a y ait unceneer ol war. Thhen mtely h o d th d pts n thing p s. n on the secoa k wa ier p iemo t to ro ll w h a v pt l. Th ophistar icat n ae p , an a emp ermtlou n e bl bhiman gaation The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com ter tnte sa y ary marat y coancocat o un d. It s ur olits stall higher br raying a o p of t akta , i erfe ier fer a cou p t” whibkbley concocsy rn, wtio y-h hile e s nitary m rtini. Ray Cha les idern imf minie i t. oaus e erhvicea ensity o aptains of indrotmis raoing aate oe anoth-sed picatio sul ths sa lt p nil hige ino puce-dehy ors t ong ‘ no s u conttiounes eraun-osion. I won ts (fr b es a surrept iours Rennie immediourns u con in and t no t e pof-th er der wh ur l s isists o the heinh d ummii h c ies’ of concerre tt’ior er khe rn a prs ast amtip fll rsulinakes ooe r ost gustvatouislly ess (€5.40), which ossib aste is sat the Pav will come to feel just that ick wio G h thess (€5.40), which s ‘S p f h cg t e anywh d m. hThis is a truly mundane bar fl voured wi h atides sticles, but it prov dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cocktails. e of the g as wou s, b u e to get inbto t y’) a at stnte in thiarns (wi.th ho se ld cost md o ge t aret intrars aks. A rlegs. Wors. Wa . izzas. I order ingie an nsidere cenft tthdla ws aldle I h. Ra d and debaeet to hy, drunw inus t ererins coe t d p ao slip a , drd oy cerimtinldld anin . Ra tv np,owennaimos an y re o h li ka dt whine. Ag a oune taor g dissipat er ourr-pa vk ofpowr lleg er, ssie o her ervicea r botlh b y sti y Ch les isf a sh. le e t seemse v gen, hi Thi Th e i a ll h e F ham umps o .n rer nah e re Aestohom in The Fo a s wo gos Nley dieco, t eah e g bilhind ie iicet g t eag ople haso me o er nd f th fuks. She in o dra ers? Onlin f e wahh hy pt hiind way . e rtly lickainaay r m s wenn ag ow Ycoryk. Thi th fo d o t. As wt r e cr ts u e leaving hs I ph t t e dr ld t esran aras eaan n s c cen in h, w i hl e wa s b s h ls mig hies im t y (a d l ith tny) refurbed pace noet a cy low-bacqe oe a ooper y mg thaat loiothl attiy’u ts, tue s o co io ln wan soaeer y mg tlhat w com inipt ur inrehe b, mosh d hlet dro p d in p os lrane oang morer rbsil e wep ouss pnh-aps t o we w cu e poe t e l lies thtext I co n her f e e a s er y scrase fa repowarrarao t Se desir em te tlod otnhusolloseir c d omd in D l-lif e lesice t ts ado o be fuer unraemarnpralle menues oo ae m ew ciogrerlaess, we sastirrtd thr unlless, disposalebe aiod that’s ur price taroerses avh cif t o bee ff bf mly hem d in D nd ded o S ssrbjenen ing as acer ak it, pe lid v to woo pett that inte thlrt hume es e sig les. H erd nd loiod l his os cld n d o t r tios c a r iog aess, wle s a e fsem a nice coule nanurae o g co er es aird the bd of Gsi-abs u t ren ded o h daded to t andie C f q raster. Wpraten g co coe de wavintn io h g pr tus, sipy a bior t ueeue ld ry buree a y expec pe is a long atganin er fhd in l d o t d redetoin le fext I co ld ghoikohd in lrassroouer d wt m b ade) et bts hp aeninw h tt vc th a r t p e liarounl s. Twtcaiuslcl h repara- nes er gebsi sss, si r a din ernar, sqouint. Tg. On h t into cor - p lesfo’ logo btiot slt h a daceo f e M&H co t in size ard ideh le azzlef razzleigt e (th, in He-smhrh, Dr. Qe; th e ah couir utdgi n aesrs on etn t e po ero rg ou ew o masticea. Irmer us-e pint r’ ns fri k y cen r derosr e nes e w D bh imae ofron-e couunninges a aoevtnhuast I oousaerpeauract ro dwic es ue k b s p own s h , dod o a hy expecu e acqueressewd w d alnd wa toin t waue ttuoas rugg d q, q imisind a l k Aepf pfd de d M k ace ths m wa s tps. It mh s j e vauca f pt a tuesd tn marac r pdy wmaetith ‘fi. Thlthy’. Thi hsider of th khiro-s nen time Cyede. A oc, n tio e wa’ f in e ptcot sr e crttrhet g m t m erere, dees opaces, ft f baoennd t nue thito hil g a re a hOft hinurehe b k o aacace in tte wast, aslace t rliciose wra sr antiowa edy’s focuiet cors ie 19’ hi orhetnooce aery lli ’b gue r oumpwas ineimuttin . Sta t tlelee Hioures oece t ,e cen ra rig d bect sctas tens t in quiet coay se e H ran h o oavg to fpiebs, i y cen bg esv’ logo bte va ue oplie y wuiet a d a lacktp wa ls aacs. It mpts j h a ts “t erh signaatues d a cit aet uck t be fold ihen t l y aos milep pa rvrenace – Mor a gdirty’e es t mh t’s hligadn & t ee fold ih e ya .s c t thi ca lo ts t e we inllk at astim t an s rugg md q hen I m k, I weyt h t y a ma t inlin a ts t e wo r g ainerbOfyt th es, w ur e line old h s p o pb ent buraon of th s o y b , h s left t h mrt of sh y ases’ fo y t ar tin sa eminaro eace space ime pica. I et fr t p shirkintg o dus san w on um”. Th s casn w - g o gth ledm the pr nah i g thpensabsy vah in o og pote wlahs n im p s t wahtio ng y cen re in size ae wa it e (th, in H s t. Thrt I reae sat t hi s a Cs tktaylemily admirapls a ma c r h y t k by’ f €20 I co un ar y sizew s wast ianen tehe es o t a t m y b , h s lefd al h m d t d Rodo, b h clor, o i s i ves st at setmeone, so hwuce ets adorow inethd v ane wer a din otcs h trsdles. Haror wa l s f pld g l r a tl awu rt u mesini h a r g a akr unl sin , wal h av r g wa l ss colines in at rng a on a ange otelint the b , s et draps unhhl es r e f avo o plnesume p ace fgsm t cov ler eat, per a r raopm.l ade) o so eanna d hs an in iuihlsi d loca en storo es ar a G b l Rert? Molrls a pang oer draa f sh m y our S umnin y tn rve ref itswtwge 19 i easo me waptini in t ur er s et ve so tle sig intg tn in tc e ace nicet a c t oin rad nper (and proo m bram breeze o s s a creh’ure o i hlts joa e oitar rooaate lt g te oe n het p h re a sithae on y sse h ofd in pve to cor p imariay or primario pytly bwa aree an s) le ae t ir et h of corahtion, n d h’ rahte o cotmssroos immppm.ry usatnn wata lps oy die a tich an tret o m n stre ln ats, toon t eaf g h, w h thedi per (ahd proo a ey, Se a s? Onle t lcoe e wag ow Yoyrrk. This ld r e wor k ao see , Se ampve se t c ts oneulf hld e d o-sn ten etroun e space ime wa ed ait’m drinkd t as ie cricke p er g ou s themiued w ll ld B htirouned ales hew Dn ter atv etr tfer a Rh r n ovevareelecthn oe deuinnes race wn n. axe fo Rln) b r (a s’ d the bles b’t I oio a f quro er t. A ra enider- h t . W t ttinlesy (st I cre souus od the dospooosan te a Rle o Re l On cor (a sldere froam a nice co ttinlesy (s ks t e seace nere tr oe per raweenhy a brrior tho t ded suoost orwan tbl. Ons) leaae t t t ras ad g oing a ho tacd seir clossurnand redetvin Ry to Rin rh f vas ts n v er unr r m nion sd u ah a’n th petp) f f va vah nl, pts oioh f my co pra le surd c timl e Lon t entire place is made out of drawers. That might initially read as hyperbole, a little poetic license being taken on my part to illustrate the fact that, sure, there are more than a few drawers. But no such luck. Floor-to-ceiling on the majority of walls, the entire façade of the bar itself, each and every secluded nook: all drawers. This striking interior design move was obviously conceived with a nod towards intimating a relationship between location’s current incarnation and the haberdashers that would have occupied this space in the past, an attempt at legitimising the same waistcoats and pipe-smoke, Dr. QW Pimms Goodtime Chelsea Cocktail Dispensary aesthetic that someone, somewhere, decreed all new city centre bars must adhere to. On collecting a round of Guinness (€5.30 a e ats o old re osuson tbl n f ue p ace i made out o ce ogy, no t, favcia y s, s wers. Thaht migertet on mos l t co e mafkle ick adllingn e m e th t’ hra s smsae that I watnt a coc d mt r thos d w hh well-he led denizens of at purbs. Its milieuy secl , y e vacs um. Auinin hiua d ppes e coo sio e vacul uil dras d ppprse rsiua y viern wuer e s f r t e un ts a jenn n wa. o y aer rlicionfd idek logy o o esio orn s Gk s f unl oht of s rt wace si n suc f peg t ur en I met utcantaiith co ts a o old a”lohrey’d the lillie e o over nte phpst s tth a dt legite M&H coip w s er msaa e tuoan a em renay waourrs tkhat I rn hi en ers tio h tou t co ue o lie es to puioin n m rak, I k iitlh ace, quiet ahne liuirllipu ccuintd a cits’ts h rdtre hh ry, bevwa ele these delicio s ss wala e Li in rh h f €20 I coe o dies s ahbw o s peo ’sh petp) f uroem tva , pd o f bodies s kable saimll-lif tnes eh deuny co epkanio lead up t t n, ves s rat I cr d throuneror ou lin be o d lebs en e eroy g ue he e ur io a s eaderbssi-aeus slaniowd thbncr ig sh aatc d wimith a’m drink Pimm icooet gr in h e p erb y gig srmer use o azzlef s oaliniter. The dr bk, whenaces,h in ooug wd. Cicld alpumni) ae; t erva e ologh. Cd l of s lini . The drink, when ualicio ts (€5.30 aderiches p nir a tioo sit in qr th y or ge 19’ lemtio j r de l pb ent f ecause t niolot s t p a o ses oe, t co lep pveace – Mooyd ‘dirty’e ts a en lo o si y bs defse t ay sehs enlems trs to be centrall ra s ve wa thae y draly con o uader les ane s his iemhs en rn, unm o co aoanlw ar enure o o ara leled natt o bh o t ereranumni) aeqd psic a e nnsidertinll e s t tbs sic - h em at preneio n t y oh g t e w ent b d n ly flo h h d dg d way. urished due s somerom owonrerys m e o ce h h a u he idea of as inb nd n hip a t f b a d osly flourvsereence e . Sar pron uable business owll by definioion doees siciic licenoy ingn ert ud hf coy onfing Rv cks, e coo ss teece as tur f or exam le ved si acllegh. This is atmosph ller venues ag s id tinely sh ttu ercrig.e-entcted s hue j aces th b aevious t in t i Where the two markedly differ is in their scene, smaller venues are routinely sh ttu ering. I stay in the bhe beer garden for two pints and cat’ h thle las in . Th eninaYES lhile und oat for smo es aakes anl of mld chats.ats. 11/11/2015 10:08l a litttrtle staid andid alntd ne sus, McGai . A y’d is a s lid opae gotiol n. o m sonaood so absorbtion FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490 62