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fact that if I waited any longer, the birds would
indeed outsmart me, I decided to pick the ripest of cherries and make them into my version of Ginjinha, a cherry liqueur traditionally drunk in Portugal. Dotted throughout Lisbon are tiny taverns carved into ancient buildings. Typically, you see locals sipping their miniature glasses, midday, on barrels spilling out onto the street. In the more touristy locations, these glasses are made of chocolate (admittedly delicious). An old man pours you a shot glass worth of the amber liquid, to which two tiny cherries are added from the bottle. The brandy has been infused with these cherries, together with some port and spices. The beverage is sipped and when complete, you are left with a macerated cherry as a reward. It’s a rather pleasant experience. Beware though, tiny macerated cherries not only carry a weighty degree of alcohol, but a small stone too - all the more reason to sip the drink. I recently returned from a trip there and upon tasting the beverage, I was instantly reminded of my mother’s local brew called Guignolet, a wild cherry liqueur stemming from the South of France but believed to have Portuguese origins. My mother picked the recipe up from a French lady, Mary Louise Griffoul, who lived opposite us, located in the wine making village named St André de Roquelongue in the heart of the Corbiéres. While for the best part of nine months, the sleepy village sees little action, come harvest time, the street becomes a hive of activity. Young men and women, predominantly Portuguese, not only bringing their able bodies but traditions too. Unlike Ginjinha however, Guignolet is made by macerating cherry leaves, rosé wine, sugar and ample amounts of 90% proof alcohol. The concoction is transferred to bottles and left to age for a year in a cool, dark place to produce a distinctly deep cherry brandy. The perfect apéro! If you have better luck against the birds, try my recipe below. I’ve used both the fruit and the leaves, and have added vanilla, This recipe I am sure can be made with conventional cherries. Perhaps though, reduce the sugar a tad. WILD CHERRY LIQUEUR 400 g ripe wild cherries 500 ml vodka 250 ml port or red wine 200 g vanilla sugar (made by adding 5 used vanilla pods in caster sugar and leaving for 3 weeks. You can also just add a fresh vanilla pod to the brew). 8 cherry leaves (optional) Method: Remove the stems from the cherries. Wash the fruit and allow it to drain. Place the cherries into clean glass bottles or mason jars. Top with sugar, vodka and port. Close the vessels and place them in a cold, dark spot until Christmas. The liqueur should last indefinitely. Other fruit to use with vodka: Elderflower Raspberries Gooseberries Plums and mirabelles Damsons Green coriander seed Now open at 8 Orwell Road is the latest restaurant creation by Marc and Conor Bereen. Together with Chef Dan Hannigan, they have created a modern Irish restaurant, offering casual fine dining, with one aim – everything must be delicious. Orwell Road aspires to use as many local, Irish producers and ingredients as possible. Only sourcing from further afield when an Irish alternative is not available. Conor Bereen designed Orwell Road as a contemporary local restaurant. As with sister restaurant Charlotte Quay, the result is a bright, crisp, fresh space with lots of comfort and warmth. The glass panelled frontage inspired various design elements throughout the interior with the sea green Venetian plastered walls adding depth and texture . This is a space that lends itself well to convivial eating, and while stylish and elegant, the focus is on what’s important – the food! Orwell Road 8 Orwell Road, Dublin 6, DO6 H2Y5 www.orwellroad.com • E:info@orwellroad.com +353 1 621 3524 • instagram.com/orwellroad/ Opening Hours: Monday/Tuesday - Closed Wednesday/Thursday/Friday & Sunday - 5pm–10pm Saturday 12pm–3pm Orwell Road A new local restaurant in Rathgar Cúán Greene is a chef and author of the Ómós Digest Newsletter. This is an edit of a post which is available at omos.substack.com 35