TD 1
words Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick wor
ds Aoife McElwain photo Killian Broderick words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan Malcolm McGettigan tim Sure, a new generatiotn of offkif tlter veniues may aatin reole usttrad o e fac b Sure, a new generation of off-kihlter venhues may tim ein e Dlublin B t tad C te t anhe s, whut no r co bmmloa en on my pare dka. I tn d ny, vhou der rn co’e di, th ly k ade ohrade o hhn a f w draun derin E tisem in Dubflin be batinig scremmls epo etp re morn, iamincd g e owerts. Bjn ty Sqo ot der mucln coih lony blin bu lin t, mcarat sspes t e acava e a ng sleg bco insure. H ere a neouwe tooe oka. I tund n t tu er er s r tves tscipf th e nage tn thnd haro u qo or’s ocd the, tglttce Daublin Be nad C h err be di’Th, teumher Swasnn vo teat The Swann ts lo l omp he dirit t, tini, a n etly m a mahyh d y) c ypg p a th ss epuc, a onymous hhon a f w draenj jns lobg sle sure sways m uosrhroe cero e PROUDLY SPONSORED BYft f b e H th se ns tes t nf l a ce t a n hazy J loy v n w th so ae auc a i s hlo b und tn o gaderos. Iun r Negle va oder o ad v ue ts foca to a lack of interold iro e yaners GASTROGASTRO nks are allowed to drink, isn’t we approach The Jolly Monk, d bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I uld think drinking would be thing.’ out that? Everybody drinks,’ profession that doesn’t.’ I drink, isn’t drink, isn’t a Jolly Monk, y Hotel. ‘I ng wsoeuld bets after smoking in lifh here t t m k Y ’t nour leaed th er verligh ea nks are allowed to drink, isn’t we approach The Jolly Monk, d bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I uld think drinking would be thing.’ out that? Everybody drinks,’ profession that doesn’t.’ I Jolly Monk, y Hotel. ‘I t. t. ody drinks,’ oesn’t.’ I k was one.’ ody drinks,’ oesn’t.’ I k was one.’ ops ti g o s y ta y to a . ‘I wi e our b f a c l esl hhin onle o f thos hir mile on his face. Anton pausesus felht ai cc t s ef r d cl’ hh t ps t. Ied o bliy, a- enoug den hir hily tes, ran o recitre t a l ur ng wsould bets after smoking in life, t t mak Y ’t nour leaed th er very quicklur v gio s y ta y to a . ‘I wi e our b f a cb f a c one on his face. Anh y tao recit e h wa en tha y’re in ote sm t s in’ coo suany, a t r iads ‘Th e a poem o e ro mi of his t-se exc ean plng sesos y ot s urf hi h ps b hiside do ’t n ug h er v’ otlight’ in c k’s drinking, A monk ght that the monk was one.’ ar after the monk’s drinking, Look at the sign!’ A monk Morrissey is holding aloft a e of thos moking in lifh h inside doour leaed tho mous folder (A2 size ma by e?) ab ring on te, tha in a . ‘Y ’ur le ir idleinp t y qtuickl’ in cy si e, under out how ught that the monk was one.’ ar after the monk’s drinking, Look at the sign!’ A monk Morrissey is holding aloft a happy!’ It’s one o k’s drinking, A monk ng quite alluring about the a hotel bar. The sense of approach The Jolly Monk, ar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I Anton pauses maybe.’ Hotel. ‘I would be guiaipaply the st ps ts hobe?) ae sg a o g baerrem tran wans atvn n moemennar-treeax. h actp ising o loes over tt a seaaer t oe wavnio an impe eocaclshrrays ot wan ops tve wa o me a pp aca le sadnrdaatting it i l retssys’ comtaanshm. ‘hn I w h I wa h t ses w en pn minmen are terrace esou h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp aca le sadndats. Th ill ret h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp acacitle sadn ats. Th ill ret ring on the ter side do ’ r ug a inside do ’ r ug ring on te, tha in a . ‘racee ynu e sohte s op tlight’ in cursive, under . ‘I wiure o of his t-se exc ea g of his t-se exc ea g race. ‘ happy!’ It’s one of hi o f those ext reads ‘Those a poem olh ring on the terrace. ‘t m k Y ’t n engres, rare tlhat s ur moking in life, t at make ynt ne srotatte s o y qhen py weird how monks are allowed to drink, isn’t I ask Anton as we approach The Jolly Monk, newly renovated bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I os a hildminder Anton pauses maybe.’ guillder (A2 size mv mf iny in a gy turte orn ad a d cl Th t y in se thoeir phib h del t bout the ense of ly, fleetingly once home Hayworth wistfully fingerat the corner of the bar and weekend holidayers eating zza boxes on their laps (the at the start of October, I’m Hayworth wistfully fingerat the corner of the bar and weekend holidayers eating izza boxes on their laps (the at the start of October, I’m t that the monk was one.’ after the monk’s drinking, ok at the sign!’ A monk orrissey is holding aloft a e on his face. Anton pauses childminders, maybe.’ o htiof the fa iliats Dom Jo y sramee o caer nolein os rtot ogveuhst eepdurre tis tta a t oiis w en pwever, teohe ohiside dorn’bs i ene m he rer verh oes t si li o n o o , fleg oue seocr s uf the Thil t h r ia en s t, kale and nux ut buuer Sa ’et. p app M tliouion s facees tle e tz P Th eys oiyable Openh florwehdile in otte f ’ coe y ih d think drinking would be ng.’ t that? Everybody drinks,’ ofession that doesn’t.’ I neor a momeno I s a rda t pertein witder plo uat b ho psao y sramee o cer nona ng a liotetle o.tovp p to tve pa ron apens, murmet yen p mle un ohad of fo u es ha en do cranft b ataoolbe?) avs uusby ttt to s irer s a c lat the . Hfur diets. O ser t race e yt m o qa h enios te seoen fik its. On ur o d wh bopy n oic ime w a enlaseurn momaenuaerabb s, w tvy m na mystd tthn oprs f hlder (A2 size m abd Ce Thumin rrays o nly Monk,e suor pat Iioc he fa k, in oloc k of (bl h. t readas ‘a osce iainlg ofn e ot oe b ni ed thf i pt. toya’t’ in clf , h ht: ‘dern ts est f surhm p iug dend a nin io oy a rae ton aisvbg a s torhos were ayn ao en e th t The Jblig tf a cThuhll, Th t int m es t os d clas s ’ cog a n tyhm t he Iel tes Cl rkie; iiore y u g ae in o’s sassyosp g qm f seniorbheny H. s overw wh glooble ch a e nation has institue in o vI saehin ldint p bs i b , b’ te sy m es hy qgneAt. ‘f dehiur n ey a s olce ay soosie O’Gtrady’s is curren - ion ha , te be o b g lve yrolde vai beo depo h lmin lem ise Q hlde wt yo h e auld lad in os at mak dert no ur laIf yh’ e sps foelder (A2 size mte, une?) ab derlb umah. uad w th in ldmin o b a pp o b f a c irbiet.otinre inaertth of the fauict y k s Dof thhe Thk b. ‘lin, y ug t e the c side donld t’s, meaeyk dr’inuing woutiof the fa li u g in lif ho ooet Yoer aou th its y quickly an, at maou w ue yos, m yrdaug. e spotsligts aeter smorvio, unh lde vib , b le sas t eats. The back urfi siineg on te e ty srace s R ding aloft aae our b f a c ir it s. Th hill rhkTh a ited or sure o mystery and briefly, fleetingly n a place that is at once home cinematic imagination has s, surely, with the institun a pprdtathat is at tha hTha a pa wahlg ofen t ohne h a smile os Do sloeinr tho acad etr nters tiin t ad ph t or ur lit), t ho hs wg in lif hin es o spea nf (bnalisesd b tps b s are per og a r snce h roic o le ubn tll h vangar pers faohy coohe s t pf tbs. R e fawld l ex, gs a Th u ys i h fy’innt Thhasy. I the ln tes A enocent k id a nin ’ he peroo wsexts. ‘oeet’s nice t f a cf fh s. Th a c n tle. H h s w en p mle un oh er s rilol rthThlr ady bg ab g vthor bs i snin’t.’ I, hott The th t The J klhderlde wt plde vugeessey ev lder (A2 size m u nder o huosie Oad in’Grady’s is currenttsys’ co a p l , ar ta ir o vsf yy bes ausio oy a ra sie ve, un bs. Rt mca Wh n. ‘B’d aur o Octt Thcan Bax.ll r ng quite alluring about the a hotel bar. The sense of t r ad ealf ne a p ah n t s f r nearthsy. I omen aru horo a y oee aa p t eeinons o ts estas t-se ex en hin imiclt m le sadn b w es t s f e b attet e t’ comtpaeree Jy, an laorugornos s a cor-s. The b tt ’ hde turnhinle ube t ry tt p bs ih are al inlowed to drink, isne’d ttb htter very q eionfuickld afuriliov oot ayom Je Thkukcowur le soitver ver t y le u d in D t hs R ’ of his t-se exc eat rtoads ‘uTh e a pincc e per rh t of in ni t dd bue e cs in yke ynur leed tho moos y o s arue peroram t’ Iev gio s y ta y to an imicltsh I was tna ha . Hfy’e bd ck n m py tmp o meent criseh act--s t a den ve wa o me a pp aca le sadnys itt s e ae in otur . I omen sar s t t creh act-- T e av on Bar a b f a c ir esi s. Th ill rhet a a pp acn imicltacaething.’ anresa . Hy hi l renld of the B t o Thcite t oem o e fone th st wpo t e o uaa a e J’k oep hin enormkou er ld b’ in cd in ff si io y e?) abe, Breow ad wih’h its c e a orem tat- n Wh ’ltiedinag aloeiry to rfs ‘t aeciotut thplt? E d bef e in oaa ’ cof hi t Thn B y slices ninw mfor s w S d ab e a p wa a ven thady’ hrp Wy!lks,dg t to Ohbli hmhlladges, rar sink, isnm’to renos ses aat s re perd C hn tere tle mp. Thcens c cemt crt it sk is a co hm tedg a tt. W t Th hoean, ser peet--y occ ays. ‘Nily tBThaood, at shin l s ow tn, prersped colour sc o outat er f hiy dr d cehh e o e pe t Ms aut a ss own, pvr, th d ber tside dora’ r remenh f n enormou tlig hr m k wa lde w eir pf (bmy t warhhin ppn g t saee ar w edgniur wpthled co f suloau h tlh a sl ir le sadnys i h y’ e in oasers le. Th ur s t r hy MThik i hw mfor r in the p’’ I ’sy. Iod o t in as t ly M pes paurgs, -om the up irosie I tinog it iug h ttet’ Ie t’onur we sfrolio gt ve waur perk onaesd etad w s. Thosl r ienhdae ws ho’s k fe eny amu e lts a t f hi n n, pr W er ’ co inside do li’, ah’t nc ugaer s ftotlder (A2 size may me ou a pinle Thth t r in tg otheeinooae ma ur socutoirteaet crernopo y q cin nh wa er f il bty,neo c op ue, unpo mn imetlmcsd ethchinn ah ine btaco rk ur lit),os m t ir oe st in op o’ in c tmps to sua f tehok oly s e eroricd blaiefllighm lg e f te, un, un untl Dg bak sith no immer a , fleeth of G r l m Js Do sy tad oef fI wtiaurcble sadnein d p s e w aafmed a baagrkter t e m n ts es t in anur se J y Mornpl s. On ot rle u d celdgvohs a’s drintlokent vav , a,sae Jenlg a delemd tht denerligoh ’ in c r idioa’ he sot,em oys. ‘if hih ps b le co , Bt y tui n y eceniptunnins a cots guests asne t r h entsurs, sie oy, w yr a hendan, tp g a oa yo uur llt nls, m, Th tesvut me bes trkgle y ble ch a ehe Thk e as R d t, b t btetkhlmines uicd afyfou gio g t y so eting flder (A2 size m mabsin o ass km d et hings anle thiner! I hin aein t a sg ou kbrer! Irau es over tyfe yeaioay load o had o r er iof th ah lif lde w drinks,’ne’ I ’d affs onts af tuhosctom J. Ag in.ah.eosh y oiccble thin ogk aer h re oem o e fs om tb s u stins a ld ah l Morrs hyoles hg ldin ters, a e vs ra thpth n -hld S e bnd achmpa er ax. t mh of hihhen oe?) a un roc he a, wera esat n d c ahsy awsersxts esqabhyhmehoug nat wether . Ia uit o gnF s th t htdenh-le be es t ly boen henustee to Moang-lly’s are better ts es aoiues Abbhs, w ay m n het h ttnvey a seir pacnes n imicltsh I was tna ht . H e b klaher ts es blit hm h s own, psyotts estat in as t oug racee ynu’ e sohter verlighuicklur v . ‘I wiure o e ter side do ’ r en rd thmouotlight’ in cursive, une?) ab ugh er verg it is we wats a ter smokle u n th - s t-shir chan o recit e y occ p h le wa en thae wnac a Th Wedgy td soci oiclt The J y Mrs. Th aps bukin -ver e tion of the Thomas Read with its olde worlde vibe, but between the colour scheme, striped awnings, ne Joiome ut auild iy H al thle be A unng akn t d bb s, w ireg g er s esbleos aDn a ce a Th oa ht The Jiot y Mro a ef hiy beslrr asady booin gailio p was one.’ drinking, monk per mbrbverl, unled “ Bsg al aays o aornhine fhs ows ahvr tomce sleaction of ruiem ah en eugahiff of p – James J’oyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulysses r o mf insin ura, B s, a te aie veneraat st t t Ahe b t od oe g, uno uming bor, bax.raiesv-e a ws ate flaws uog lit a t icet Th t in ogs abe fa i sitttetteoy fuderk of (b’r minimt a nhob ln tlh . Thblige a Lawshinot. ‘A fe eoerains A flg ttep b lel, The wa ey H al the b t p s Do sm Jan y seeka h.ey evc tligth’t’ in c er ext raerhh a e pa ronu g a oicty e obs it p bs i ir aidt ooeroa en g a t h ure wa ey Ho v. He resesgt p o coe oo sopug tl i - d ao vni olo ues Ab lbl, Th t wat ma aes tee yuru ge lo enio quite alluring about the hotel bar. The sense of stery and briefly, fleetingly place that is at once home it tl oaf sleniotrhiig a de t ol n a V Wh’ Ataerts lee, rmkaaiks myins , Llloh-sriok ils. Ond fr m n oer-ast MVP and have under my belt n in i aeniore a pvy p ynor a new u- io oi . Thdeves tl.tcouge Negty oo-r stogmfot r uor atuaee hax. he heart nd have un oidin s a tuothee ok olt n ramte uicerpaahin tnele thint s pvrionv ve nlof ft Lcaes Rhhin . Thy ews a v innside do k o eno Th oue o er noein ig a litoer! Id Csg. e pe hin . Th bliyin e slemoor totu g it is w ’ At nusinhir e, B a ur se Jiot y Mro afur rey’ vwdie; i. Itlets a h boilulh ubf a c r it do t’hting it ikl lminrunlen pot e plde when a ops brble co uminiltrl blineh. Thtfce i ” mer ext y f le co aere se poeh hutt sers,es at , wt wa o immnr d o erwoart ttod oe t n o eme, son u b t ps D ence, o y s etlew on ad bt h flowao h n. ‘ t. Wy t s hble ni un er o ef t ray t e migorhi, an der in tanmahe fel pe e e t o , un d ads ‘Th re a poem oiolt t re b, asiere b xwsd bd s otraia, we a em was shit, bu nf of p – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulysses n on I h w Iout tku oy bturuaby int aart oaas t-sgstasesetcrecg b r, we vys of fiins a tt wan n m leve n s ot on, preo ’ A mld bnkt in an adfrtemev o, st pg it i ld C f Eaws uer S u h o h ips bter tstaun t hf tw ad w ur d b f in ougtt Thuppose ca at moiues Abb s, w auaba t ahretkt ef the facenpu h oem oe Me inkf inihe p n! d I wiji b a picf th I wa tt rotletinor a newo ieace you st ooevonesh n oa qih a p ys i h y’oe in oassyospt es k oi hm , Tht our tw en t sieble chance a L hk a tthte sigt ter H . Th anvin r y evo er v s a cots gues- veu s ooeev l i let h e w l r uno sius Dbf thh a t hh. l liocf a ca, w dh my fs tte fl iof ted ayf sivio ma e?) aass m o ks wts acr we s an o eats aathat do rot. g in lifni unrace g bour leaief fhesatiolo s folder (A2 size may lederlb. ‘t Loh I was th le. H h og a en t aee afain e p , thermpin. ‘se wa ey Ho alot-ae Qu o co opder ll past MVP and em t t s ace t ing it it ont th dce h e fa i ooi ay m Joanouaket wer pe o ps best d pd inet d cetur t y nio b t oy ttt der y s a pme ts, mure fari oe o looke exc ea g s Re vps behinf hi he b hidg he I, t er.s tthoe’s t stune ’ rtt b ts h ps b ’erd b ks like Nei er sms o Wh n twe t . Thpt Thnur lhy Me slpace few ce yemin s arat a sorar t ablefet lrbvu- einood o t Thcinli y ben f ace f r ibmfgs, r fhtsiois ahine f ka’ If inv f ineeeinooed o t in an adf eme, sonionlig t y menthunnhis, wib ar pert a oen te f p parho abaee a lac en pn me olde wh lde v f hirsi Wh e whe d be sYie at n tiinln trer sm orr’in manureversb , Bry te y aarn adarpte s-pot y qn us atn yaws n o le coduminohr nuf e sth ner ver ew di’ in cd asi e, under g oc an hing oleor, t at mas, a i ys od th h flo t of thd aurfeh aavd dinnae Thrap acaereav s arue p esn ps brb, untees ut hc te ar o if fres hpn’ haturiliara bnun o a r ae in oteir l’ coeen st deehade, fl the besgt poses t em isoenbe?) a g in life. Iled co a gbsyYure enormoued a uicr a n nink ysi s natder ld ml p ap en pn me o sd Gáiu blt rlunn, Thes, rare y occ t. ‘, in t wborr d o f sliyt -s t , Cheh aceoh g akaoabu -e aaleosh ano ance a osy,’ she am td e Bof hie thorr b y H t y m bo t in er Rverhowlit), s t A ft’ puotload of foa ce ion h e thinorlde w - d a, bvut bet t ses tem ile cd’, unle d s wtpen tas ohnop g a ooiu e exces As En Thl te a poem o ner givee wa th theet. Iled colol mo dilhoshe ok id a nin on me o d we abs i b , but betkes t Whdgewoo. Thloac eg aeno, s p yeslr place fwden gs,cGarks md m d Peg ars holecle coung assuminly asa aanentinaresglble Old St nmae flaseeinq d t load of fkd thf (b cr d ethhin Im lt e f s Dun’m Jk, in o sin l D ht tion of the Thomas Read with its olde worlde vibe, but between the colour scheme, striped awnings, BOLAND’S SWILLSy ti hy te en t tvhe bwerac ceno in aueenen swe b t A inhtenme o s se uer Sl th Rody Bolandst t coeeier, t irornmten ve ny f Oy He Iau wsoelmin tg oe, in 2015, tr Rody Bolands ido crafen of b et osiuyouubh, Th it’ do tlhhile bwegaitre yg ole cim . While i hmines has a lot going for it. Not least ll, the array of pubs on offer. The most arkable thing about the variety of drinking oria that dot the suburb is the fact that, pite all being spitting distance from one aner, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its . Depending on one’s taste or the particuies of what you’re looking for at any given ment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? xplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied iberies is primed and ready to step in and hat void. What sets Rody Bolands apart ugh, for better or worse, is the breadth of erent niches that it aims to occupy. ody Bolands first opened for business in perary way back in 1870s. For around 50 s, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, , beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands hmines has a lot going for it. Not least ll, the array of pubs on offer. The most arkable thing about the variety of drinking poria that dot the suburb is the fact that, pite all being spitting distance from one aner, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its n. Depending on one’s taste or the particuies of what you’re looking for at any given ment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? xplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied iberies is primed and ready to step in and hat void. What sets Rody Bolands apart ugh, for better or worse, is the breadth of erent niches that it aims to occupy. ody Bolands first opened for business in perary way back in 1870s. For around 50 s, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, , beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands y fingerhe bar and ers eating r laps (the tober, I’m s for varicomfort. e of the s how the nxiety at e to photognt from the so too the th-spasms hat served ket for the t the cost I supy f o p ay in toty eoem oure t piace fo ice at ric d whg a dee exi. I p ts bte fr sif tht on pauvseser-ing a de en f k i l e in tts guesieie; iintoetf foks me a eaf f, ka hi erbealr an ys oe ven ittiof tder in tatnmanf t olhae Thsdier (€9) made wd pien do cratfh Ber! I maaynts, arrrarao, wt waneei ah lifet ver lde v be paaronutelminglhineb nu a p g vyt p g a gfv be wa e t, tl ho ehtur diets. Oos ’ coid oe thb-s q e as w e, st por a new ar I a n f s e t dirly eceniinl Thler tace faps buroer s etiorioy in a gt oh rrays ot wane urs bd ttht iload of f y shace t o h l r hfo t g a tup lio .t),esveads hc np to neir sign er ramee o cer n ce hesleamotutinotupe s c o s eves, in a pl c f it i bt ollo s afct b o bn t b unnaynaks. Bacht if y g a li t s aentin peaNl, Th t y m es t em i v g oa rewn chhhr poaht “feves, at le - maaurat ht rd be g b ro o es -e po og f hiu na e a m Jo’lf m kter o eae migheras an eauovevs aenerxc’unet re ll Pad ett t o a d af G bt unny Th ht Thci ar y tgo r no s, scen yne M f in gah of vae s nice tian adunninrum ew o t rat er t ants at g i u aua no cen t, wa nearby individuals for varion their psychical comfort. us emotional state of the usan Sontag notes how the ous emotional state of the usan Sontag notes how the o er m ey a racn ut t ice i ho sps beinvere ent b er! I un h es tgt oble ceh ai es t e I ahr p sy ev y o avnlee tue, ae Jte oolilt), Lets ree op ny. Th a u goteir sigv- y a so gt ks aace scGa r ts i ns curren - The Iet sery’rhnlmin syly* p ly fio ui bli hm bitd b esee ps he resagt pos g s cent place for its guests and whoever wander in to have a drink and relax. cent place for its guests and whoever wander in to have a drink and relax. nematic imagination has surely, with the instituses over the years housing s, murder plots and the ralmee o caer n aoweng a li le on t wp to ts, wo ay m p r l tps (t ewn lmin y* po ci o pThl id b t h’t crh acd a r i. M ttminrse mig oor r emo bwa s Dtve a dr ukuer St oem was s odlg alei t The Ive p ir Th tintg it is wh nt waer ext lo vk oayrg in.ar ners e b e me vys o s b h flo crs hbn. ‘yobf Egeasasusuer St err (bufhae er ha t A d ps prett o s eino he n’a e eay evuo e i H s ov wesest ping ie ysiu go t a af frem tetles io h a h ’d a nearby individuals for varion their psychical comfort. p wa ik i do t’en thaeiy me a t. ‘A eg i op lopo kaerinesg trt th hh ads ht py a raace f . Thlot cotnto oy lt. M luc in levini gib’eld to hh ury at un in i e co ug t an he N .e fa ur rl es Ch hintf f h ens, aroesenera n t A lowants aes, scucledier (€9) made wtsh Bdlleit b urbeo, t tusi pou tz P nd etehbt w er ar peg Fy evps btable thhin teshin lde wt Then s u va v li hd b ly b l nceo.ug letwueire ao; tad iny’t o e in whicth he w o e a ou Thys iert hin tt Th hine ootoer! Ie t hich wanes (b r Thitad ethhings ab rd lace I lo hic l, Th e os tt metky coa aok, apod then swresuld l r y’s is n li le t s progyle es .e Ioy i ls tl lt, bhtis t wiy bth enod bk ae t the end b thhosie Oo si’d oGrady’s i ei ram Thfete ot tcer noein ineit eict bptle otsi we nv fp tolbhne be e toofrren do craa, tfnhht Than te “ y e wa e s g a s Hafs ol thte beg tes t cd sd colono pu a d Lhets den vemen te Q ig ur 20s hinnig-lly’s ara- y of th sosert ts estpl nep b eno s gber sex,t a h exile spot.ledt ls s ts, cd w o immo hr t leerB’lehhe?) ab le, wls oe ahohrement-io, loldiiea,d f r a er ts variout ff fes ot v s a.oruor a nrewexts. ‘stI-ie’, Bnecg bern ji barene v e F ers,wenua of th fg badr, w f fble Oresi er Rlo ry Tnaedoh shaar you a eers, u unrolo tr meierets a sem min.’ic tse mig pera o n ig a lit ts a aaotlo x y sunnf t eqet ah.d rreehinlet. er persot bhaosurb hy is ttran in avine J llly Mro tah tehv r ib’ Af va eminf sd m lot h act, wiex, h nl to th s a co ovnt rremin o o ee m . S Thd et es f hd pt yeg a tra’oo eir p hs r de at ’ r d LED shcullit),t ot to tcGaf that one in which he w o Ite aeout a ers, m Mthrmou ny f ewa f (b ceigt, bps b iur kbooe ograup p to ton a o ot waesh fu he bior tesaaan. ‘iovhe a drink a od rrf cralet.yfit bs it bale t s t y aidg o fa led aottsurpr s e in h en do crafen p h le ubc e n ’r minimerlh ax. ta ntgs a h enouttt.ughtos up ure.etd of th yso h h nthd afe fafo immilitedin oe fnolehom Thk a s Rrhad w umt does fn w h ht waempts aisingetting a l the way tohis part cGa ly’, t s hed Hoaines, t erhm oolg b us fhilder (A2 size mmaau t of in ni pled copanurae o ty ecentt piy c - ie bmf t r d coceur se J e ert bdens, ht Thcfh llem ys iy e , s yt slrnplhace f d cl. M ts es p h hi tf fys ott wo immo di hnd a r f dr uring in a hl fe Sc ae a odemen f hile Olhe b d sf Ee h. Thloioy, as tevt creh act- gy Ket lo tfian adcenaty cn dider in t ra aeereni ets r minimt heah s had iats dateiolo ins ttiete peosthdd b o avy thing a deel hen f k ilos r its gues o t in af crauer S ek o t b ess pur-dAt thre in odggs,on asnblishms w ug ik i o an ima ur sg a deentdleoit ps, bo w?Th t rurnt yeminded m i o anw o uipa hlt eniole sib t cr pth ac -vieuiy bt ibmf tt f f e t n f cra mer o mpa vse wa et creh ace resagt pro cole u a aom o e aavy, aroa sv aornbee wew ’ Atnt emind we aenn ldmine wa ey H s ovhtw we’ in c ceno in uo puse et h.u ead wi h its a abs prev en peopf fe se tuce a.ur 20s hurneh o y! der ploa S tuttf the Thknm’ r petes, rare ter acrg a lihole otoup sh d b y i, Bhy tha rn adfans a surpr on p The h of de o en t y* pu in u y l he s , re pe y r gr o saa sino msd ers, aae v o f fys it sa s t s a rt The I n his t-shirl f foets ‘ah.ecitthturalha d LED s nilt Th sey i, unlt rou Thf (b Thw , w wareso immtno h se a drintk annsd rreelent cre ur-- rising pts anyts td ttheeir pe tu k o eir raerh en do cra-ftst be tw ’raerc rp to tve p h engres, rare t oem o-e fr ho ps b ver e ou s w ohne y terhh . ‘, w he a oremdent-io, lol rko hkinl. Ig o ter bd t wak o y tc s Rar er acr ee a an aav u y tg ee bloeluminck oaf thiaable Old S di iaabrble cobou lofumint al e mig erae migf hadnres ioeree wter e Jn tes A e cinan leavherw io hosn m v y a sorrts o tlmin le B r h t de e exi rf (b Thptth ps b oeins wh somerioo o k ep b er f tes em. Thas s, ws ol the bie es thn ioi le oraur pue tineir p he fairer skex, o rre oe sents d in tnhtoe fn, plm tatn Bf int-loaecausuer Strns mah flices hif ys er h.d b iefly, fleet n i ghyeitlh wreroaavtbtrbe a dr, Bk acnrd rrteeloet.apen y.nwer to y tf trahra e temenh fg o t a s o ha e a dr d y te poem was s le th s pr enbe?) aass Thm rs folder (A2 size m a h osounpnao tlo haps b f E c, bsu t betln adh nt r pe lthh ps b a ntf th ot b le o silocp te Iu s t lk si at s, arnn ea t waith ninruh er emsinv aws us, a en do cra h raen t Th ou f th bra s gui d bt te b et lrble co aumin n o em was s bt, bopef Elocx tat beuuer Sle et. urder p a Suaers ath Bad of fr Thteig e era reso immters av i do t’he er fna ttete yohin d Gá s En den t le O hsinra mansineas se t h se po, w p yinur rev ma , unassi ks mn tnle bs R ad w ” mes of ok tpeavks m hnot th t, wa n io’tvs Re raesaa Whrdgelsisu gociinf senio ta s t por a newvwdie; irton asrn tl allortvuy manag nosururaie; i a f fg dih ente t pru er siex,e s “l v etrob ybly bwbie; iahe Thsve t s e vys o voreso immtnn aa at bs atrat a ssoraw?brbale co umin e a .o o r, weraable Opfao trolh flhe barlf atd s erBs seu y te p et.m sd roem watkers, e En d afh lfe bili’ w e to p ’o f f er o e w orene I d in tlhve fglan uxurt-laeca suer Strn al alleviates her anxiety at dings by recourse to photogthe corner of the bar and ekend holidayers eating a boxes on their laps (the the start of October, I’m no y inrbunny idua nce home ion has stituhousing nd the Jolly kfalep brewo hil ieety ev thh-s g h l s eet, n 8 eet, n 8 prog a sev t omfort. of the ow the ety at o photogfrom the too the spasms t served t for the he cost supor the outsider. b bl delicious so me nen en. ngs ages smar. Thas auafé ihich ado ymonk.ieffsho, ft of HQ Gaste hb r right next doorplehd it rings a was own tab e one a o us o m ann wp t a atchhd the p r th open this pllicio s s n cober ext ty ftvhhicanceres , ile Parliament Street, mple Bar, Dublin 8 vydublin.ie 6718267 ar for the an outsider. ar for the an outsider. o-large cruurn to our o-large cruurn to our s Ivy ch n t t el we o er hem s mv h s ace’ steetinwey co v b ho kll k a bit u m it sh a h aps (ton se Negs an outse garowep b eulvue ge connecl ear o m gs a d mnto w e h e tt syblent Th anio er no glishman with ‘banter’, or the death-spasms he once proud colonial mindset that served orically so well as a comfort blanket for the an Sontag notes how the lleviates her anxiety at ngs by recourse to photogher environment from the uotidian form; so too the ter’, or the death-spasms y ur rligholy-t t th hihle coss w onial mindset that served a comfort blanket for the r sensibilities at the cost he other. This, I supof the hotel bar for the er s t ayont a f thet b h a h w hs oil ie The Ice otoniinio lt nato b Nr wuuxure o p, f B e p, a . Tho cant wa t s do y bawn t e a’efibts. e s ttioebe-gll pi fall of the hno bdom s he f le w al k tt ta mk o er in 2010 ae exper - i’ At sTh deresudgct n tr . e eapr, fiouxur ledg appm ib en aleir sig- he tt ple who can’t wa t ’a s te be I A. I pld t d cr hinhe NrTh s iege les i a ra nt raoio hkn tyt e mraenuuitleve inwawhiny t e au e on o bd twd t- rae lifeu - f cra ”ene ew tn to ktecep brtd bg teses gor appynos kh l oo n d) a snd hcckling neab unny emlelg a de m epb b Aaow t e, unve co ovhltg boge at le O happr m Papo tt te barad oof Erlde v b , b t b t w, i howtt Tharonh t The J got fes A’m tr minimey munes tiof the fa I viesih lo o y sa en yer pr styuv ty oa uit t bumwas u rs fn te At tmouar t tteres se k e p t t eA liny* p u e do craefidit ble. Tht ht The Jit y Mro raaevywr a no. Thgs, emin d mase exit, wa. W r situa e minlelely* pminer y* popo kl tep b era w ed t Ahrhe b b lotniaad of fvet t Th s w t At ty stf td ph er! I er siog cutan do tthtle boetlmin hile yoh o “pn s kble thhinen b unno es, ws overwt r es t tsi on y a sugh t sin osidert if ytou a end o t ye oenn tbah Bt a t u uer Seroem was sg ferain u . W fle paogaen fr or a niew?’ Atio oeminin artlt rlf valed “nleg aheotin, s t, wa in ea t has had iats d h eny .ugghiff of put m a o naon astv ded me io y s a mg o, Ie pl y b ps bles so s, Beaef tsoao os t e Ny s ttt rotsiem arnuxurf lee t n of craft ba hit, blindling t a iet tb’ Atvio oee he b g binlul iidederrvonyiolohe b ae Iel thle beywoert ao con. Thal ht Thdusty tie ty Marropa eute ts guests a gtce a emeve, s yrir s a co din y liur rev tio n. ‘ t of th o atiocdead ma en ieitsd t eoghin tett d flid whick ld gs tah d s i f fer s o e as wari”t uuitth ln noy ftunny e ot do tthfer oes hfe rh y a raers at of in tni hf tvcy a sifrn adfusl f eg o At t, w lf aes “lth h em outiinen e l o con pk avl tht t cen y ce a ni le sh a hea - uowa s a r nwo u v y a s-en l bitlg a dehe atunis, b-oieyw?’ Atntpemind we adera hue ‘in uct ble mode btetter e v si ing tu a H d cla The b ldinee Jy t ugeuet o e t hio og se tu b o g sy reco s Denm JTriad oaatyotmcat sty e m g . I povemenor a u o v o gs br a new bk d h lid lek Th s lh ees tt linh Bit, bln tleitt bourbw f t em. Thas a , h uotleea tf d colo’to tt Thhe Ichy i” Iace f b‘ m‘Ana r seg’e ylothu goterun u ae an ry tthr. ads h - th her environment from the quotidian form; so too the banter’, or the death-spasms colonial mindset that served as a comfort blanket for the qo dg be h lrbahy, bve no ae n f s fctiot teh f crainfesg s s u gouy a ss bhaa, born oldni e s “l e a gf y ft frou r minim oace foega easotiohaem.ug et n thever ts oses og s a ralot e cossks m s tehe Ny srt, wa iynier ext t s “lhsph war w tm iut w t ll ncegagetwe t r p tnerve Ia ta yvt, waluelace I lo oor agag ” mld go be mone . o rea f svohich waaen f y t ps t bmff va’io oo tn o lt? Plen r ni g. Weint, s hrtrble cohe de th-sd by t h n ld lrad iny a ere h dier (€9) mws e ts The Bero c t nt wavle O hhn’t ansr t xes on tigrie a L w eem wa efurs, ld to k ”ims coenhhads hldnesd iws aav o soph a eeneso y t e auld lad in s h hmfte tt.aer ener ext y fill B xNhrsclt hopthps (to ho suesileatiooo ep b hile iaht “fer sa s es t le - es McGarry’s, a es v h hing aanlde wouecchaueir lela n ooetlsen wt ma t. ‘en tob vin g on cofne ts o appy Whbtle thinler! Ily fin ur scs uhich wat bh, Imt are et. ega ss shetvu l pes ts o en foa adr vahi e b n o of va og-ios ea n tele b le Old Se bmao s in. ‘o nxietn l minidcktaih t sThoin der in t diioe fll pink amldl fhd relet. umh Bau y a urbon . It was e co n t eir psy fo prt tt waesmfu o aesy a co t hpeon af (b o onThl se exioh o bin rb ’ n-u e tih of va exi tlt bl s ovy mt et f le b.o oio ps b b les i thin t e oo vup uxur u e cos w?tie; ig o ug t nt waer ext ty fu wtp t.o tvc o eaea cobhy) cve Thics pe Nn th fer sb yba w taerf thwsn fug a oer-inoy indirvidua tade cotnneap rlts guescerd bdeb-sle mo incinum s i n io of fd cr era t the fair p o a e oe peeoion t oaeep b reoy elvy.s rerntur rlpn a Vlo , iaoret rric-st d whos w nv pog yp abe yctiion ting teh b bitd b bit he pao conaswe ie; iarto-sto spations o infr gtgo au goc ta l ip ys oerorno immt o hsuna now so o rlierean s it dot wait d ?’ Ataturno inas, a arnesens tud w ir pe raepat f E eccausuer St o ade w o m; ss uo t eeniot dirt, td a co odbin t, ro tnl f fd bhet l iia f ehs t e Nlks mig-ht havs t d in the heartThe food is a beautiful mix of unfussy arnd Dublin’s Best B.Y.O.B pool hall. ait iceit ooeg aenoe s art o’r minimllh tb r hly b lh en o siiginvks melno wple wh hi sincs tadnen f. Hlosor i. M eowa nks m rnet td Peg ina ween t e o olde ve exi t mht, wavinghem i r pray ev o sung a li er! Io ser p ty soet h.cl litoaead wis tith iu to ograplit),, w oshost-osten do craf hin ett hin b, bt ht baa h h h en s t a, un bed b o g b le s e Gt. H ng v w o tt rat er tdena e a p ith iosy’ eacaaane a drink ali d r tlet. y!e m ehinle ubs t-sf tnhost plde v ery tehinet me banes t o co urerstI e, Boru tavtt bo be haah flo is w en peo - b er t. ‘Ae peoe y sblen tinaaetFn s tathe fairsf yy b nin pcG s td m e exi e artgirble modality of the visible’, bnt I eer garden sodbo t e occa omers avo -ys wiuct sf li thile higemn, s les vh y o se w toho kveep bret Thd tge, bset bth oof deh s t p bs. R e fair o t r h saurseut CBhk oloete Qg er n t u e er extwa ce no le siothh.in hay ee mo nt wa ?’ Atio orecaioram e o ner nvoeing a livole otos u ere b enf hod to “pn asg Bvoen hteri dier (€9) mt ega s s ato s deeaestow refreder ee. I p . W t y fvhe ntoh . This, I st te b y bh s al fr a h orn as ner n to es ”s w gs anenly bttingd m rt Leteh .oo ha o t d teir sign t an tes Aau-esies aletic a std expes h a p r um ed m d bit hes a ld lad in s li an. ‘hBis a cot lro’mfralbe wao. Snsion o e reshe mt b . I pin he “d fngreewts, a ove a rtst wrhetabge e t s ovy w ar t p h B lld t tus t y aa i t vus em eo Fy e.a o go pihere’s sb lieley Hoe poem wa ao co vda. Thil tshile i sier s Isitbusu l a w od bt rs ade wilinthi a fleit a eres s’ae rtdier (€9) mt t b os t, b e tese a v kso tho t behen hs he fartvad of Eneceusuer St hih b n to t bs cohin eatind bitter tt e inthtr y l kr var s writetet. awling onug’t wa t velling individual alleviates her anxiety at amiliar surroundings by recourse to photoghy, engaging with her environment from the distance of the quotidian form; so too the ohl of the ht waner en t y fl kpen, as rd a cot wbith s htt ent uov y re ai l o d bitth ads hor tpebs p einsileir sig- ot craletopt rega asi we o .’vr minimlay t-ts v di, ih enced bn. g y h b n ig f uhs an oeeih a n os st e menucin tn. ‘ uele es s f t p hi o h in i e coew roif rl fneg, b ts o , w lf ae nh vexirld go b l n ohie pffle cos aser sen cvalities ar h oem waeers, u ct it auhile ireopoevs ihgay’uio o a, an . o unnd .y er s r Alup conautit wie bley bt olt’f vatiing dia Thot p os lik erae pe a gus coo en a o s e p b f frithe t es hhca e exir y* p glwaredienhes aret oe ae ty w g sohntr s o e aas c a. I p e ograhflf th s rea r nin, or t uminl f to pdut fhe aluo tload in e thic wp t.o tve p rt. t ty T aleva f tv m tva h, lon d tade witg ogf fulenileilt bs”ourbr rvony ldn vera bf tr ahich was reao cr a nt wi’ Atio old tvks m. W. oe exia lumwa c of shenio’hdirig a decen lr val rpai unw ts gues foon asehded mrees ”in k walnl d wugkend plen y ot d f sny n her-intorery elv s, I slu, br e e mige h b e tao ty t-tsarma e a drink ah hics wl th ensle who caoioemt o tt’e mua fal on ren te B adder in t e , iateres saeeessiouhg s lay oin v . Wconhrnsidered ts i s e v hic l comfoat.b bl. Th ans -es e p, bule w ind ts a tn . I ’n ot ly coesunaetcing. Weably li eac v ly and te eir psyecwoa l b r ft papb ur ents ok i eti e asmeral co d o ebh a hn-udon uio s roem id h hit of vatk o ioe t l i oe Iv r o o b h a h yap’r minimalnt t s er pl aemo, evne Na.e o le trf br en vt Thh wa n r nvhervehvlmingle yy* peoing te bon tt’ole bugenuuia r an watac. Thioe wro , w in s o ly b k h nold it ivks m ,t do ter wegt. ‘ ts.y ou g num u a an uy terus contoinaaeems enw so in t n sesg ,’ A, Ihe ruggy str les i t goy actn-u whe fair ps co en Cs, a o st ettnwhi ar einy re-n Thpatsms tegrf th be hieter! Ito’g op tfo tovo eamn e t f t hich wa le O conh h I vlisit Ch o s ranween swreet te g aep bl we o h eral bar f p eyhe h uor minimn ’w s m wi t ric mah en ’ BoB le icor, Tha in S’e Ino snhorh fy o uo t r umpte tt an g t e wo ldni , steemk tes. Thd ft.itub itself is spap e tht sl t ag net. ‘Auiw t eno u no putoor agatgree fairs opp yeneo o eh wi s prs at tet g ouien, ae ps t ’l, buls tit w td’ As a sd t range ay co vy o ts b a e mightihicoe fa ld S erm e a drhleir sigle om eo a Jld Ss pizza b ere esreqe t Ph rt, b h’ t The Ihy i h t bp er! Itsi bphld i n (v otly w y a rati nintme d w ween swegetocin, w d we s for var a emasspug ts e vhc s ae aeuer Ru t en unn ks md eth ed eg nt was pe es t d tgs a e anf the hetre.u be i nt waer extletttsiderb unny bl y is tt y tas o h lo. Ie Q d a ieivhrohay y a e nohic e Ihsfthrls tlhoop is tlioy b l ns roet fmlighty a ral” uuitio oe cr eg hint*I mvean t ld go bd tsalrp, ff c deoeleam i. Maosn oemaen y or vahil (€9) made wurn tg oae t e pic a t le b, basier t in a v uxurwo o oours n he sa ieiy t-ts vetugat e , ia’unnt.lo d betw , bce tincin fgersh . e proe raa y a anno wotel bar ferr tppeyblhte haa w sns - ot cr etop ino bloc tpe o kgu w np t.o tvee, s ys hos a coanrevr i c ntnten ale tethg y coe feeloloveml. I pen geari, ld lsin . Thl know s he p e menu o can’t, bt wa t - ar d of EB’xecca s aioe pa tihiet. a hh en io ho o .arcy posiith a h pf va dier (€9) m lo serhiin a b in s p ein vre wableqdier (€9) mkade wem iigrunlh Bulld tleig tlt b” urb he fair ldnex,ued tum erd os u goeuano pustece a t ton ts o er et inpin o ur scroy eren f k ilosou wgs,o s lent y th -s w d P el v er anxieta urts bektaantce aha egder in t. Caop-ld S eem e fl e ss o rlld go but wive a wh e in o hoctioe ogravp gslnw ” mrvnsesoe mono coneraeance a tsle ’ comu l moedi os ol ld lad in hest ph wo tfle cehg ty, ar twereo ld laad inmfot r fd bio h hi a en . pte oebl-pnt ibareir sigip- rah eo . the ‘ eg p (vt saby’ nh assy. Ie co y a senlenerey m ntag g o At a soor ier Hortad bdrtols nd who bfos wtentupeonlld S nd n dw t r w’lerlhhr bs ihiho h aer aen thAhem ily* p d betto pu s, ws overwrlogt phio o le t e fs on tnheverw g yinv egace you s ooevyce sc o art ays ivy m inl conao cohvcten sl ieas t leht cret, wa eme Iebthag esd cle in oab dg rm ts es paan hmhe e aru ur taea ee au e perv t oe b k ie; irthn a puttf thn tf crafable Op a. I pg vking oqtt . I ’s t w o ur rly wriew?mfp ro gaee coc o oe J sy M n e, w nings, a t pur r s o sn, ptort s-ts an oua ur scortoy evoopor o p en feree a a a es tgtsible ceht v es tust ade, fni -ts bie; is a come ppe a simir ’ she der in terd oad a cun c eh as Th it en ind ai h a h tt olnleo Jo y, e I t ma n w tple ul peh ts of hing aowo. Their sig ldes McGarry’s, a en thy) cfe r m tem iera ooiutes Ahy t t o f our ci emind w atic ime wk a en e tu goebance a y, wb bs a cot te prewpor spt in a em v ld Se adiste flBl poull fn p” Ik i y bw?mfie e tnvter td wa n inn a. h-szer w b r sitm nd melo Jl pce sc the sh h y a ra ni’, unots a y tv ded mevse huh flo umd ond a h o faiert e s or paioc nt wafurfd p ain a b f the Th hy id etot gs a y* pomen t piubo pury tonads haad in ci f fr wapen t aee a oe tr ta h eins s s a ur wurtve og tuvs u gs a a p. I ttg a o goiues A .t pubh wa’y i it’hul do tlhrw e corner ott e coce tac hnnTh t wa. un n y , a ers av ere o heren do crafn os ani ouo a y au o , fecam tto sink int , evhheryovy sr sye o b p, we g ow d bt ttuxurf or w oontin ems engag BOLAND’S SWILLS Rody Bolands . Thien fa w, besvt rr iber ea emind whos w no n o oe, sef o ees. Thd ftin a le tto s ra n o ls dor, Iecin ertehinlee o le t, wr lf a t The Iioy is tloly t s trac t coemhin n rign t e lifeir o; to sit pt tbebly by a ra nt ronu imciil iurbr hinlg ble sh a h d bre a ae ahren do crafet btse ggow lit),d t’pes hen to a ak, a d then sweet rersit, b ing tce a t t sad e onve t n pts tit p ierllk id aieiw?ly b tlice as a i gasts a ranween swe inrgv eead for a , wf fbd bt te bex,d olr t tl kts se -ctiof thf craft bple wheen es fn your rlal aied sh en ts an o on a . Cg b ese tss lik em ouitub itself is spa- lements for t e s wap from the plating to the shagpile, but the service - n ertst dd by tiks mrte a o e exit, wa di d fhing t nt reminil frlor aras wf f ten ninwind of E r (€9) made woilinh Bgrie cruolentleint b” urbrle ilenla. I p um n s likg t e wrs, ais opp ch a y t hjy u e b e r otf vagrg old tio -er s bhi, b ts ov , se gse y us at ma Be rn. ‘n t’ o od s oo yae m laioo a Ltie rinrhowalpugchin gages a e o te a yu d toeaning a sea es b w ri-st regaetith Bld tlenleitt bo surbr a a, sy overwese mre es b’ Ahe baregaetere fs saehsies a en sw hv ete ’80s. Sébasst eenl I sls s tuareticvielley b l o fce prath, lollly tl and sh en. Weys des in er s yhe m y-t n unnint itl is tg t bhoy sstrt tt f e gvo ar a b kn t le baener , s o-l on adss muc .o onee ag te exit, wavg n w ee cn tus coot t seems engag g a s toiew?’ Aeatrgf fi ue tcwat oor agages a ye o e aurys liky womooorers’ cose - n e mr”ests.tet lurd r ino “ped fo ph b n uld lrad in at o on tinttele. Most ner bt , it’s home intricate, delivered viha a ple y a t en ne i o o b h a hk en I wald g’ni nuut verse cold’he lifeinas n le t, wielf am wp oooads h h t since t e p t wt tbst r Clhh g oo oliur h . Wa t e arnsild gs aesrl sueo rd f n ls lib mead fit tsar tef K leimio ”n f cranft bs a, b o o l hi, b byar tp anoo-ld tgs a -um k id m wr gages a e o e ah a he t rr w a. This bs w e world o fgind g t b uha , s . I p e cocno “p d fics pe Iint ts a di ytierirsenio s re, I went o n t h e snoh to bantsielf as “l p o yles i to b dosk n-u h r wh v oor ye eir sig’hess iih i le r b o t n oe randed pro ta y a ep brnetsrca er pba o t s as w’ b, idahier o em.g sin uzzing . Wimd a a. W d fr u js prioensi s a soo s. Thi nnhils ade with Bld tlenleit b” urbrle iono n od-oem t wall con s adtst’er sen o s em.glay coirt w t t’d jso d bonaem. s au I va’s ftuletnl a wd bt reincinsg tuhparn tii y balanstr thranwe y co f r d j ugl o so uhlys descend oeh td r asi a h e v b blen, ano l w sh ad K yles itself as “lf molioti-cf td t en arst rega ur e grow uxure Ir wro lntin eem e p uh, fiol’erie losine m tl Dh kt u y of varo “i wa c n ttgah en r rld g y acwo o g ive population: here, everyone is an outsider. eryone’s a spicer,’ Anton suggests. ng og vale in lat”e Maro ucah, in Cludes the heaoshuraneme team ttd feytrtivivadtcin lt d b h additioa gs, whe helm in the k o An old man wearing a slightly-too-large crux necklace passes by us as we return to our ng old times”. While its oldness is s also strangely convincing. We know some people who can’t wait up, for whom it seems engagement tself as “lts t e Neghouh t slf aa n-u ted tgs a s o p o k hold i s i s lik a en ra. This b , b r linld ld temiyle h lare w e on o b w t r dende s a so s em.ge conasneein, itn o s for t eeea io in a te rin a n tc s g t es auit d te o d eigthhint n tttsier tp er’ ld g d plo on t e lif o n og o u ims . W ole i d fit es dimes . W le its ot agesldn t i s li eh ed st t eir flosted ilts do w l for t ranea n t y b l . Wt etn en swen etcinsgt poaod anld freoen a nB agenda. This bar t, bc rp arrd r e a wa c e res atag #ss li e a g lly t h y 2015. Ktan Dlurkin is in th s at tho has b oa s. ould t dier (€9) made wi h B lenleit b” urbr n ts oldn es isin k enoo hich wa for tftem. fh s rhour ma Jhll Clurses, wem.m b . Th . W r Anton suggests. g a slightly-too-large cruAbbey in 1 li 8 p Abbey in 1 The I hmertes tbtable open, a l k n o are p s moder ’ent wa knd bit Thter e peo pro sin ho cpn t lea c anow so .ash ’ hh ks “lf m r w o lnt t senl influen ent vo adoefiummer osor o can , ws L t in thea in ortgages are one and two on the life bar, born old, seems like a good fit up, f is desigy b o s tgagem h obene d te o ortgages are one and two on the life bar, born old, seems like a good fit onk w”ith mne N race in S en made u style bar , suited to “anrd moatnhg t es ar re woe one a y whil*I m table n aext to u. Wls bhider i’ld as n vy styles i to b elf ats dos n-up, folioti-co to td ted in Gcele. Th en eml ,e, everyone is an outsider. es m t waiatveeop d that hess ie aem. Thgside co-H ad pig’s tro ber w t uith their lo e wah m iinn , an eosph a r aurale r bene s ts. The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie rino “ion t hint , wrudg anh otsh l inflas enl fs ementtt t te sara tetad Chef Rory ent The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie d t t nd m g tges aoe o e a nd mo o e woreioan og ke a g onkor w oh m it seems ener e thicut urahr e peora h a lina h-oim ve y oe onoor e, I weemesnds like a goo -sized plat ag mace a aann gs aue hr by us as we return to ourld tdhtef C af crocuts ompany a ith additional dailic s ldnowso. contriervae y overw e mengood bl n toy w heir I . Wra 8 ro a y all kno Therey inw Lo t to be gr oow *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. st r an I ig o w fh n d cole irn oDn s id their interiovexyooealthylor tfour main courses, w m bio. That part d m er io hicm iinie tte Braasuenceh d C ln 2013, Hemenu ise Q ad gs aade uhgah ”n atunnin wh g t es ar ro-sizeny irsahes a ol e cocotbn-uTh o, fu us co tura s “lrtks Bld in Geriem it seems engagoc or begus co , we gems engagr wsshdge t ad t n o d t h wa s, I s an co u ovd, iif reea r t e gu tail i tp 2013 a nio b en w uxur ymonk.ien-upo is desigor whom it seems en vd w nd mortgager Paddy Hwo o der i arge cruto our figuratively of course, I was not whelmed by women.ffshsoet o whelmed by women.ogan en ot inf H ag m triQ Galss oo ar right e C h, so tr f E e apiproachef The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie em. ffoiguratively of course, I was not th H my pal and I order fi Mr S b ter is decked oot in jd in o agenda. This bar, born o , seems li d co ho hnd ween I le lan to es arle next t oga r *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. facilitatin Dave Murra tuna cr with a r I s green c lli. A p ate o and a molten, r Rathmines has a lot going for it. Not least of all, the array of pubs on offer. The most remarkable thing about the variety of drinking emporia that dot the suburb is the fact that, despite all being spitting distance from one another, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its own. Depending on one’s taste or the particularities of what you’re looking for at any given moment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt for an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? Inexplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s nest of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied imbiberies is primed and ready to step in and fill that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart though, for better or worse, is the breadth of different niches that it aims to occupy. Rody Bolands first opened for business in rinve coverage a asd oht t e t urBeleicuubsilr tli cn D oem was s l k he t s re p lin a ua im . W irnrorurd Rln oldnly besem d br a f t e ny fh’r minimecen swe mwa hinle bgf aur ld go blf t. This isn ild , seemeso e a goo y inar , snun rvs muchi ood feter th d g aeuinwayr or eceiving ood o in cohef Ki a Mlhier oli ioithl lin S e fa l dailicuty spaeci ld-ot Litchc-ks le w ltio e them t le whhoeufd aits hichks 1 W yd ence oty n penek ra leran h t since th e tren otr e me w. I plings an g nd t non t *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. y coueir I’a nagssapraw whilhio o n oldc, seda. This ba , barn o , s hic n Htigr nat f e *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. e n th t fgien ra esia s ora r Ot a, sudes the hashtatg #ser t ksy specials. ’ f a côd t-c e c l; the claru harmask how it is, they’re delighted with their lives. “Perfect hangover cure,” they say, as they melt into a happy meat coma. I’m too excited by the menu to limit myself to ega r s f h ltem.d o rin Tertbutervd wtld go b wo on t e life ey a e Ca. Thi p of arounld eight startera lld, it’s a so s ra The y co v w s hasht eople whes me o t t is p uete de boeuf pe avoc with mned t roera e t o tt o three peo, an. Ther *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. County Dublin *Almost Louth potager.ie e traditio linal std tharter/malin cours share. Our table i the tnn s ufd cfed with plf a relaxf fid nh, hbour coahhordred peach ah id fig des Hetables, f t les ie teea n-uo k ef t.w some peo sin, i o clatd bs ts uss us ayement, tits lf als “l dp bitor w oer s ne repd t atiolien g in, ier weennottabll er of transformations, as has this restaurant. Back when I was outside looking in, its owners were Claire and Richard Douglas, and had been since the ’80s. Sébastien Masi and his partner Kirsten Batt took over in 2010 and rebranded as Locks Brasserie. In 2013, Head Chef Rory Carville helped steer the team towards receiving a Michelin Star. Carville left the restaurant in the summer of p arf (btio d etf crafenn its sle ooer! I ’ hhre I hbsleh ramen o en do crahifg a li’d pho “ o va w e rsesagt p o co v kt ceno ranatsitiy bl coi ntaaure coc orr tpansaevla Bros, wqdier (€9) made with Bolld tleit b” urbole its o t esumbugs andugs and plump m oack e woun addi ouldn t fly back on P nell Square, not y conv ic ts se t lee t e o hin rt bb. I ps pr b posr a hy ih a n. Their sig t p bs ilva n w a ags an es, tetg acoturan t),g tve pee t oe waorans to y iccn The thc ps beinf cra , Ile ta um tomcnink an a, atna.traes g n o post- y finger on thors ” h i d to “pgthing, bh t both hatatyr oug g ab unnye Iv ee Iet o e tre ysinle chg tigewbstet. Met er sex, a s neictus con’a en ao tt te bebad of E k oine nr pund ht bhit hit, bbt’ nt waer ext tsy fuplit),o t’r minimt y tas tlt. ‘en t ld Sho hd tm J c vad as sur ctioe phtbourho h s u e y H s ol ty te tes tis t es ta o ce en ha ewslchae e t son o er acroshin hhf t Box vaf t eq ohw e ax. h i adva a n s on ee e exi ths , wa ar tn. ‘eeaphdxwsa oqerae wf Res mltinhmines a – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulysses n on wf the Is ee puy botgtrey telest was ohind a cage – y s rtebt rlade wft bintvce goudverhin’r minim , b am s ug ut g to put my finger on tihh my pint in tow S. En roverages. asl ou uge o ebs a cots gues-ts anouo o oe. of h h n -ld Soere tee pd as se k ahd r et. f f f f tfao tlio s a co ahorcGmtaann h y Mtrepekerhi-t, bnin b td ph g a, un t Th rae po thmos to, bs toh my fugiene pav to or a nnew thssys’ - lewa s a . Thid awat gs,mfor o imm di hinahninqua nf Reol ahmins a co o ir do t’hh ouer a e tAhoslem isimo ot plo t at t e ur re-lte b attact aan hin y e i do t’he t bt naiot p o coatvs Dam Jd by the fair r a n lu wd o spientae tnho p t t ks aer sex, y a ra nur d co tas , ahen cks miginv ht heaavefI asopde d in t e hea e ytea r t ts gues tioe this, ab-slh a sert berle ahle bu wsun gs aheit an nayo’n os uh e Ihy iow t ts acrho r f f e l t? Pt e N told lad in tr. ‘y’u tt h r sdg b n to k d bstt ty t hhem. Th hen tt leoy a senstecGas the lack of t. ‘ Thasit yson l pee lde vibe, b t bppy hem ile cdt wory h h l r a n hur c le ch a aunnw f t ld letbout Hebasfrav-h es Moss irry’s, a ig bl tin bs i e aut ma es t lie r l plit),o tvm uapraps b o ts osle ot d hs ley* p, in 2015, tfs an er paa sd inein d pd in ’s Cr e otn av ht Th lieiey ben f lpace f r its gues-ts aa erd in th holar and eruws e t e mige mh nder in tao hat e a drink and rreeld att ram e o caer noeing a liole over ad o hickks wt wive a whh d ce a t th e Iue fa y Thees tasi ph a ho convlaev’n s, ae migh th ntales itso h e a dr ious coe ax. ensivt Th s r ert y tn m a’ aceuge th , L h-set oer sanh n rs “laenle nn hbour o . Th s acsen yenwreien sweeters,guoee exper - y of sner phing a. s uyp uhra e p coanatttivmn at’aaceoarahg s r ll or t h , s ssi ctliogs ainr, ard fet p e ble t ntoas heir do h o gt e g int agen kt b”efls b e Ihe Ny stt rldtsesem t nd ry co vtin eg.tirtar emiex,aav Baxof tf eqlhh s’ eig e ax. eme tas eno sonaent g a y f e oup, furr whar you a oo ni wots aes, sucn o n oo e F eers,anlleit bolor me t les iuietetr si e no, f h s con tie tas en d bemen a er, seer t, b pteto cne tp t.o tugkp oos i l oeir sigon u n thever ana , se ges,ble cehaaceense s s ur, bpima r t l’eir sig eith tse g owveuxuro u h hatinenly bt senemi h enerug.gem v ug hinln e wr rer sex, t, w lf a a pfuo ld S ienio hd n. ‘aBTrd btioae poem was s e go ile tolvltlaurali bs ch tceth iuater ick wale ahls a. W eruzzingts bu tu . Wo f r les i m a uxur e soe ppe pledt l linh Br th a f a. This t eshint, waveins i rogr aoh d w seo.mt eeoaoirhsten Bas, wt wa t ivic mho cant waile t b i gagem. Th h The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie lo d bi dier (€9) mte cosnhe fa agt fot it a ien Mloldn e td hi e ea e iatsti oe ole w a ansn Ira sh wceninth a h. Welthy u pen t y alo craon oo e p ex ur es d expo ui d tics id mort ohpoen.e a guin .lo t’ cd tn l b m nin rtt io t tls in t et g o u a. Thies buppor ersld, se tsider s “lltha, b bio’n oh th s thm it s. Thll knogagemeneroen .d th ex, un-u n of thee Bts o e en hp eopnd thhr t hhicts c le wa en a e p b e ery match up- nly belderer r g len sweetcing n the ps parvner ta. Thi C hi terlets o e inemerp d Den d fe yheir door , sehooht p e o xlecioun w e lax. r y b imeso r rs oeir fio bh w fy oulienh a ansor t t s o l le ba , sui d to “peed fhing t e wo ’locioem.loe te Qif craft b ’ hit, b de tnd plenldn The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie th ess hlhas c ”ole i n ov o “ ad fo e a gooa ld go b wo on te.en g a sea egalin t t ds i l s pugle tit d had bhe life n o k t en ldn hue h lm in tthe kituke a goo e es no f ts oeed on tn hur in ieers,o a Lhit, bvi erpt oot dien plts, at n *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie enaana gu in l t”e M, b h, inc d wthen I led fin or lo hes and mincincks iiq watchin ga, wep emont rage, buplo e m u is e grow uxuru us co Dave Murray last year and the pair started 2018 with a research trip to Los Angeles in January, eating around the town and picking up inspiration. “As a classically trained chef,” Murray tells me, “my first thought was ‘how am I going to cook without butter?’ But it’s been a great opportunity to experiment and to be really creative.” The menu is writ large on the wall behind the service counter and it’s plant-based foculslsed buit e” was owner P y cr sp se smat’hs a simhed the p an to s p aone; tthis i meat and vegogan en sood ther eics oor s arrin innhdefe Ce dining exp niilla ice cream (€8.50) is lod olf pink slices of th derloin fillet (aka the c e faui r an ed k in t waif eeen swy posili blt. By likelv y an bli t The food is a beautiful mix of unfussy and t a r, oor a hoe ats a ditside lo khe lifli nce ol tt n s wy, iet’s home b me p nt a d keg w ere I rasin lin femag y precise menu cate with Thein The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie ther hip nor trendy. You won’t find Neapolitan pizzas or craft cocktails with cutesy names on the menu. Wings and pitchers of Bavaria are the vibe here. One sunny evening, I decide to nip across for ld gn. Th o o toy t ht. Mibe o tcGarry’s is neicra o s lik n-ess ish y’ub e t vy s les i t s Leeaom wp oovue goonts co. Ien Ch loen r in 2014. That umneyd f r w e life e a ing maître d’/waiter is decked out in jeans and a subtly crisp shirt. It’s a simple way to quickly set the tone; this is more of a relaxed neighbourhood bistro than a Michelin-starred fine dining experience. There’s a lot of dude bros in this restaurant; I spot at least one man-bun in the kitchen. ome p’s th terpesion o in nd t Potager 7 Church St Skerries ag mak o ca e want wa t t to crush a ri, ws an y baro s gagemen n the life open thi s sloot-base s mfa é.ore o ates oe s eig bi t li hd pe sfk helin-sth ed f Tipperary way back in 1870s. For around 50 years, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, fuel, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands es po h tr p to Ld with a touca u front-runner service counter and it’s plant-based focussed but s for dinnertime favourites. Th unny joy oit large on th. Bolth are The Toonsbridge Halloumi (€10) is nicely fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a Dexter beef tartare, served with harissa, bulgar wheat, and blobs of sumac yogurt, all served on lavash (€11), a crispy flatbread thought to have originated in Armenia, but with claims to Persian roots too. It’s a creative little snack with all of the parts working together to make a truly tasty mouthful. We also order a little bowl of 62 62 of orange eatind laryered the tit own ay diced red andp hition. “Als a cl f cha rerainred chef,” Murs m , “e my first thought was ‘how am I going to g a catcencey lahert. A p d t e pair sros in this r udo (€12.50) it at least onos Angeles in Jhn a y, , an g a ound w h finelnd picking up ins ira01 683 5555 misters.ie h-u . Thap cst ye’s a lo e olt of dude b assicallry td b occoli (€8) iray tells and the hen’s egg is a cr si p delight on the outside tunity to experiment and to be rea y creat v . served with a delicious roasted almond hummus, cook without butter?’ But it’s been a great oppore menu is wrn the insidee wa l behind the the traditional starter/main course approach, so my pal and I order five of the smaller plates to share. Our table is soon stuffed with plates of fish, meat and vegetables, food perfect for sharing and facilitating a catch-up chat. A plate of delicate tuna crudo (€12.50) is flavoured with a touch of orange, and layered with finely diced red and green chilli. A plate of charred broccoli (€8) is served with a delicious roasted almond hummus, and the hen’s egg is a crisp delight on the outside and a molten, runny joy on the inside. Both are front-runners for dinnertime favourites. The Toonsbridge Halloumi (€10) is nicely 33 Camden St Dublin 2 subtlve oiy Hadd f thhirt. I ller ptl tes to s ro te an a Micllt f f E eax cutivg a fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a Dexter beef tartare, served with harissa, bulgar wheat, and blobs of sumac yogurt, all served on lavash (€11), a crispy flatbread thought to have originated in Armenia, but with claims to Persian roots too. It’s a creative little snack with all of the parts working together to make a truly tasty mouthful. We also order a little bowl of an Irildsh-owneke a good fity and their interior looks de ant-b o mu ased cafy iné.terest is piqued. The café is an e sîk e d’/waixecut n an s in a hot rage, but t ey a e an over to ask how it is, they’re delighted with their lives. “Perfect hangover cure,” they say, as they melt into a happy meat coma. I’m too excited by the menu to limit myself to The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie e-g d th Cf a côle left tt 2013, rile ie de be re y a o lnow s’ dsompt to crue tas engag rn o “pd t t stoor agah he lifeho ft c s ace gerange y co v . The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. n Itr h with a h lth a ipts cnoacc exy o ohit. ds rs in a few refreshing beverages. The pub itself is spacious with brick walls and plenty of snugs and booths to sink into. It’s usually reliably lively and boasts a diverse clientele. Most notably, it’s home to a Liverpool supporters’ club meaning a sea of red jerseys descend on the pub every match 2013 and the Brasserie lost the star in 2014. That incarnation of the restaurant closed its doors in July 2015. Keelan Higgs, who has been at Locks since at least 2013, reopened as Locks 1 Windsor Terrace in September 2015, alongside co-Head Chef Conor O’Dowd. The new Locks is smart-casual; the charmgs in a hp er 2015, a nd C n *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. h t t n aeral Docke ogan w o ha caple way t lo quickly s j etust on t e roard special (€15 extra per person and it’s wort n t). We g serates oith amaretto ae d ear anat h f delictatrtee d 2018estaurantle tt;oo prematurely wintery, as thateru t had), t peo ped earcs flaivoure e man-bun in the kritchen. poached in what tastes ligs an telltale woolly textury chips on the spices mix so favoured by Christmas cooks. There may be some bumps to iron out, as I read from various sources (well, commie, failing sources like The Guardian and The New York Times) that young folks are actually drinking less (and rutting less frequently) and bully for them. Theirs is the so-called ‘cautious generation’. As grey as the patrons are on this evening, Potager might just be the place for these joyless whelps. At certain moments during the meal I imagined that it might be easier to score a drink at mass – at least you would know at which point in proceedings that your whistle might be wetted. Our aperitif order – some martinis of various predilections, is nowhere to be found when the (excellent) bread service hits the table. We choke it down with the Cuinneog butter and whipped ricotta with lovage sauce vierge. Some ten minutes later we are informed by a callow young man that “we can’t make cocktails”. The gins and tonics that are to fill the void arrive after the amuses. These too are good – some cigars of rolled white beetroot with more beetroot and some startlingly green tapioca crackers with smoked cod’s roe. I would have enjoyed a glass perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature very match ular m Joshua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no n additional €6) is gri led until l tta er m NEW lStep Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 RESTAURANT fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. not exclusively so; there are options to add proteins including chicken, turkey, salmon, and beef, all sourced in Ireland. Behind the counter, staff are peeling and chopping butternut squash in the background while the rest of the team assemble heirloom tomato and avo salads (€9.95) and bowls of Rainbow Padthai (€12.95) to order. It’s the jackfruit tacos (€13.95) that win me er hRESTAURANT here w a osed blobs of aNEW Three courses a b is hRESTAURANT Considering its historay of transience,, t s one tastes Considering its history ofd transience,y t could have b en fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. crfubeen cro uce pf s lmesq rettuiu, b bh t ra The name of the r ly tteas cool and vew, even t g roo o v pulled-apf this dit encticks of app es bef batter. pig’s tro berutifukeesi it (€7.50) w th s lted caramel d-apf tt meat enc s a and a choco ate A peanuWe caer par sfat the ched ried mullet in a sauce of its own making, Web exclusive content also., highly finessed, pulle, caramelised ban d in a cran fêted with shal vings of frozen buttermilk. Ms er kts est o gn hmy b, s den b hinf hi r n, p bs i y t , b cit bale th ees t e soaunen t wander in terd of Elidge, t , a s a s Th y ead wt sah id ps tg abh r lit),t e c e a otremotat n en t f e b d ourd achoq n, p inted out in an t s to io n n os o e A fhir had o r osh etkw uh h roano h rver.tet o s ea ougozer--et wt br imfolie; iyt rts anded mh ast MVP and gs,t emind wh e er hr Drv y a s erorat oa be?) aaso ers, ao ic s R ad wiith itsgs an e wttle orapn m, wen are t eir phtos aas Rt C ies, ats h obrble co inere w , wug to immeruice flur v g a li il di hd aa kl e o blit put ll t cre I t m esg ur sies owehld’s Cr h enio oig a den o immh der in t oete fl D ck thts t eone I ar ligt. ‘en t y* p payg tt en . e wa eaiogbne Ieuaesgy Thaet pt Hbsm t e ense ughh acit p o-r some pev y a senste t how n t a lde vlranhin c ps being a little o p sin d ous is the lack of t in an he lack of ns ‘h g a gs at H ot ldraog ’s Cross is t lh n zer wh ie; irtpf thetheir p er e od bef e bew? prp omen t p-’u ea evs, w a o-gy K s er ’ co v de h’s ahne exit, wav GARRY ON McGarry’s ther hip nor trendy. You won’t find Neapolitan pizzas or craft cocktails with cutesy names on the menu. Wings and pitchers of Bavaria are the vibe here. One sunny evening, I decide to nip across for ther hip nor trendy. You won’t find Neapolitan pizzas or craft cocktails with cutesy names on the menu. Wings and pitchers of Bavaria are the vibe here. One sunny evening, I decide to nip across for ion ever ino-gy Ke d bess. Bent o b b n eay’ul n. ‘B’d aio h a e p em was s bdl’lut s co, bin ce onga h ntein f our cit e a simi– I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. g elly’s are better ing t – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. MAKING A HAMES OF IT Mulligan & Haines NUTBUTTER CITY LIMITS Nutbutter alnhdleting it is w ,et d eop u n om Jol h my s onesut betkes t em is se t eir p oetcah. ys i bl McG en Bes ‘ h acd a en t e w d ckThan ts es oem o u ps be peos de siekcbarry’. Thi’hs s. Th em iht’h le. He wap apyen a tops tmen ar- n imonesaa t betk older (A2 size maf in ninhdd by te exc a ges, rare g it iy qteskeld ayfmain n o derher tainlg o t a ss opwn, p’trerstee f t os t ai n ad Mu ligan & Haines en p ma s Dof t, t at ma e y e iat shin-e fe aappy,herers n me o bblit p g ous ar t a soaa p burs ost e o t h htian adf Mullligan & Haines apen io y occuracMcGarr ur t y g o ssouy tru e e seopoig a a t oeir p ib , ber t oy!hur inh d o t in afnh napen io l hin lde w o a . ‘ p ace dend a nin ve wa o m I wleis, wsh I waadnhen t e d co n hmbs i ugt den le t at shine ftr o f tloosy -s t t creh act--a e , Bry thh c e a orem tat- n h bt m wesh h g aaous, ahhir ens, wthut m es taween tse s in t a so m t ur hsteh, Bry tlinags bahind Dhtblin -gs,t ua. ‘hteenoremen– I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. pleasaut b i ble’, b t I a s I am no Joyce scholar and have under my belt two failed attempts at getting all the way to the end of that one in which he wrote about the ‘ineluctible modality of the visible’, but I am struggling to put my finger on the what Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global horse-racing o Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global w te whathate we-racing o en l GOOD SPORT The Pavilion Bar at Trinity College Dublin gio s y ta y to an imicltsh I was tna hes . H e b k urn momentarf thos hir hily to re ose t oem o-e from t eh inted out in an of his t-se exc i y tealnges, rare y occhine from the inted out in an ou r aeugo e sps folder (A2 size mayb der out how t r ads ‘Th e a pat s urf hihinf his own, pr n imicltsh I was tna hes . H e b k urn momentare w ace w ac dle le y s own, pr BEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace l p ys i f hi h ns. Th ilacf ur eople use t eir phones eopo g o th se t eir ph . ‘on Y ’re so e ynu e sohte s op t y qtuickl’ in cy si e, under t r ads ‘Th reos y occurt r ads ‘Th reos y occurGARRY ONhe Pavilion Bar at Tr nity Colling tho inh rimrald-wg ca Th P MAKINl Shelbourne Trin y Collinege hn So b ouStaext do r te 19’s n GOOD SPORyTr at Thei iG A HtAotel happy!’ It’s one of thos hir h n es, ra e tlhat shine from the happy!’ It’s one of thos hir h n es, ra e tlhat shine from the NUTBUTTER CITY LIMITS Nutbutter If you’re interested in food in Dublin, you’ve probably heard of the Bereen Brothers. That’s Marc and Conor, the siblings behind Dublin brunch and dinner stalwart Coppinger Row. Their latest venture, Charlotte Quay, is named after the block of the Grand Canal Dock that houses their restaurant and bar. The spot has previously been home to Mourne words Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick words Aoife McElwain photo Killian Broderick BEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace seats after smoking in lifh here tat mak Y ’ur lar ugh h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o mn imp acas ble sadn at seats after smoking in life, t at mak Y ’ur laug h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o mn imp acas ble sadn at words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan ring on te, therrace. ‘ ring on the t race. ‘ seats after smoking on the terrace. ‘You’re so seats after smoking on the terrace. ‘You’re so gio s y ta y to ae. ‘I wli h I was thess. The back gio s y ta y to ae. ‘I wli h I was thess. The back h pa py,’ he stops to say to me. ‘I wish I was that h pa py,’ he stops to say to me. ‘I wish I was that happy!’ It’s one of those exchanges, rarely occurhappy!’ It’s one of those exchanges, rarely occure you re so ter very quickly e you e sohter very quickly SADDLE SUP The Horses H h hrumphrey’’s Stagag EIGHT OUND e 19e 19 The Horseshoe e s Hump Baoe Bar at SADDLE SUP The Horseshoe Bar at The Shelbourne Hotel Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global The Shelbourne HiMti ES OF IuT n fh a tglcohd a. Itytve- g e se. Hotel SOUND OUT Stage 19 DRINKING ON CLOUD EIGHT Humphrey’s thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association York Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having operated as a bar since 1661, and the essentially untouched Victorian interior that you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Reilly in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention of its name elicits in many a knowing smile and an assurance that it’s one of the preeminent venues in town for dates that you don’t particularly want anyone you know stumbling across. The root of this association remains someday and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. day and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association Ins et ad, th e ier s a sm ttt wamin a ing the hhe harsh glare o t getting all av Alon g ete cen be hnttact waitenu c a a r t orbunta e he h r h glar Du ce of tthe s ris pun er s. No c aing poo liic. Jus scret s p ay h t or cra Mu ligan & Haines i incer ps th. Thr thf th eir cos mg in terms o a ces f o ting jam i it is abougt t sf t e lobby inl ce t hwoere os in t eir rkoaees a t, m s eaar prcr thvit; augh the lene SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader t is a out ths t a leure oeems stouybcenaore lo seseso Mullligan & H es i s, ond orareino. Thty otanvarn ge es tail m the bl I wous. Uet to t un e Bd aerlhby Blf cobin , it r qt out the natroe of Jaoyceta h tail menu clasiowve anf thless o t Sura e ah pluirf P lir mistaken ab . W e y ug tne strin nae bath bo linastin ad slloehe tppn o su b lent th f t e lo bwa d et tacenher be discliussed co h uru o f J o ty hy evrukt th be bfhfrtm t Instead, th e ier s a smo d ain ds inrds inccatld smers aom, w arsh glare of to bh oau lin w udinte 19’ mista en ab to i ador ae blt y likre t indephs, b ooe th a tf nt i kuinne p ace f r day-dr and i poure lesat inlts oust a mishmho c aidns-gtnerba se v faun and wa hin p mo dbnd th f cminlludin l bh y in tly t tervf Ps therese desire g sent e p hasator du inturpos. Thed. and it was ac ue sld cly jl hust u Ft a mir s ef li ioe we game, butlinge en f sshepgrw look fir n g no m ttl lik n horse-racing on on It iss abhhis hee ne s me o o y harl e Hay bhhind a canage – t, of co’t hos w b ry televp t mne e bar proves a l thvoiding eye con r tail m ing its n h ierros o tt t ude hy regse I a luirTh u t cy t oims. U les a deens. No c ag r uptio n & Htines icoe en mics fee s ader my balye coeaact w t STaikh eon dvys. The Pet. Fory to r nstbad, th e ier s a smagterh s udenust o s a o this Dam n’ pe Se a bludinlinepr o intricate and tvhe bo uner galia a p ale sin llosg y precise meno tlhe to ftial sup LOCATION IS QUAY Charlotte Quay Three courses are €28, werith subsBook Now!Book Now! the DNA of Chapter One is all o er the place, m e fph: (01) 537 5767ph: (01) 537 5767 ra aer speciroa n f therel (ald-be Dionas Taylors sillled unt lar d ed, with charr d s ered and blacakn with the Mic lf doyseed cucumwn a berepurBook Now! the neck. A dimin t’s deli-g.enin. not exclusively so; there are options to add proteins including chicken, turkey, salmon, and beef, all sourced in Ireland. Behind the counter, staff are peeling and chopping butternut squash in the background while the rest of the team assemble heirloom tomato and avo salads (€9.95) and bowls of Rainbow Padthai (€12.95) to order. It’s the jackfruit tacos (€13.95) that win me perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature vext dour, an eat s and a A peavnuWe c n’o rfait (€7.50) witsberit ad it’dsharing h bight side of de adently delicious. A over. Jackfruit is sort of like an ugly mango and it’s blessed with the ability to soak up flavours and retain moisture. The tacos are served with Murray’s delicious cashew nut cream, red wine vinegar pickled onions and avocado tucked into soft white tortillas. Thanks to the vision of interior decorator Jill bate is rea y wd perfectly of the season. o uaar mens winiat y baret ooh n (€3), w th h d mousster. L’Estrange of L’Estrange Design, Nutbutter is poised and ready to be ‘grammed. It’s millennial pink meets palm tree print and bamboo light shades; draping succulents hang overhead while leafy fronds cover corner crevasses from their pots; even the cutlery is rose gold. It’s very beautiful, and it elevates the atmosphere of what is essentially a counter service canteen. Poké, proteins bowls and peanut cacao balls far too hea y or far tt ro sweh business and she seems to have retained her Web exclusive contnent also.den, but a f c connections. This is top drawer stuff. A mousse l of Cashel blue cheese otver a celery and apple didn’t httle die ro nco cern n quat mes thie signlo ing in n hn sltly ese o ous a te a lib en mics f ge s eu ore ae inge okhm ips a i o o ft sd s shely iner a e Ht m sic college ld two bsirdugpanywtgne mlic ho s o et o scr y a d stirrint or craliga er t po sleo asnd oparninlguatogo, a screaenn LOCATION IS QUAY Charlotte Quay enu, baby beetrown cre served sallt-baked with their lond blackg roo it, w h chh dr d cprinkled plem out be pug uph: (01) 537 5767 ch esecate. Th Joshua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no e w erut b e micr crab mc seat and blobs of avonado sauce. It o ap its own arsn. From t a at u if ked do n tnhougts att, tenen a vae e derprin h manner (potajay), but with m h blistered avely lon would want to feed to somebody who loves with m h ticks of apple acd blobs of ss deft g a e regents for the specials. The s a er sp cial of 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 plump mackerel (a bloots ar ankiness. It is something that you area, positioned sm k b acang b am e om s a e y letslump Buck , deli Ferter d v of wine at this point. I can’t help but feel that pleasant beer garden so I make a beeline for it with my pint in tow. En route, I pass a handful of punters playing pool in the pub’s designated pool area, positioned smack bang between the toilets and the beer garden. Its close proximity to the latter means players can go for a cigarette break mere feet away while still having a front-seat view of the would-be Dennis Taylors slugging it out inside. Handy! I plonk myself down at a repurposed keg where I remain for the evening. The pub is home to a restaurant known as The En tlis aing of cminsio fa a dkf re s actua moo I mras inc beasters I h whiukteb, I p ns a hanli df The Hideout e and old avoiding eye contact w tacT king i h o wer. rden. Its c inside. H eny! I plonk m helin star pendant heavy around vocado saor thuti e cuplet of potato soup p iome te) with bacon pulls me back from full Joshua Tree. (It describes itself aes a brasserie, no A SITE FOR GLAD EYES worse. aacentre veer - ad as a “sister k Squa er to ier, b unlques o ted cei otugn Duhis wetb en t inere ia enu c aims. Ulhlesotio h te a m f J l n nd do mlcohur loo adjg esste g cae I am de au tln an l music. e wa ttunately McGarurays in anerd pine t f Guinneselceryo e ay-drinking h ll bo t o idh Ma slligae linge F On t t ly M a M ligah o’ut thno a ps n e nature o oyceao e that tblin,u s w a .e a m f Ja icul mista en ab to it. I merk roined ceil ar qth of our local ms isics rom ouac n tatmnqtues v t tent l n g and slo s. No chah t o M ic. Je b si e and m u erd alf coDubulin’s Ba o adjev’st B.Y.O.B pool hall. Unfts. Ado td pe t thf cos hauep s h y l. Tho uat mtlkl ea hn glo t o e o irisf t length b’f tae loh tegulo t sosting jur tont drinking in endililr craic. J f Yu ur w’ l Nnher W e Dutch mast So be it.n’ pon hrar ts, nge act prornoge ao tt entld ri f th be p s mles oith adjn dihs ipsiosnlin thaft m ces mao eroag oe o gosioerr m toroepe outside ohile high-ceilingeorgdiv, i. o Augu erserf rd wa l retch intd mine a sint ptio y f f th ams, per o d f T king ilts nam un ootioniabalern B, peaumes yoyak, a u r d kh e h ohhe f up t, os os litole divle r t ese wr tue s iudents. D -s perhe-ar, j st o f P liar ment stt’ Mulligan and Haines, the otherwise unnamed English student who stays with Mulligan, this Dame Street bar occupies what was once Sweeney’s Mongrel, what was once Le Cirk, uli nmusurse.oper tva ts g itho e areing u o-greens aebout them. d circuhl r discs 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 e p e serveoks reestaurant may not be propleasant beer garden so I make a beeline for it with my pint in tow. En route, I pass a handful of punters playing pool in the pub’s designated pool area, positioned smack bang between the toilets and the beer garden. Its close proximity to the latter means players can go for a cigarette break mere feet away while still having a front-seat view of the would-be Dennis Taylors slugging it out inside. Handy! I plonk myself down at a repurposed keg where I remain for the evening. The pub is home to a restaurant known as The eans p ay s can ganor a ciga-rette break v eet aecials. Th eate y McGarry’s is he pro NEW Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 re €28, with substanttial supts owgn atrsret. Fura t k Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 uce. Ie ev (a pota o a res a m t e reg ened ts attacaree , sucumber, y g uep trgots alarte. It loid salt-baalked ly lonounced in the F Considering its history of transience, vaer - over. Jackfruit is sort of like an ugly mango and it’s blessed with the ability to soak up flavours and retain moisture. The tacos are served with Murray’s delicious cashew nut cream, red wine vinegar pickled onions and avocado tucked into soft white tortillas. Thanks to the vision of interior decorator Jill perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature would be expected in the early days of a new business, but I don’t experience any on my visit. The staff are friendly and knowledgable, giving good tips on what to order and steering us away from over-ordering (we wanted to try everything), and the room is a pleasant space to be in. We grab a drink at the bar connected to the restaurant after dinner, watch the rain hit Grand Canal Dock, and think about how lovely this veranda and vista would be on a sunny evening. Even in poor weather, it’s still a beautiful, urban view. Our bill, which includes a glass of Montepulciano (€8.75) and a homemade hibiscus syrup with sparkling water drink called the Queen Medbh (€5), comes to a total of €90.75. Charlotte Quay has everything it needs to could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved caramel, caramelised banana and a chocolate mousse is really well balanced. It could have been far too heavy or far too sweet, but instead it’s just on the right side of decadently delicious. A charred peach and fig dessert with amaretto and vanilla ice cream (€8.50) is lovely, but feels a little too prematurely wintery, as the fruit has been poached in what tastes like the classic booze and spices mix so favoured by Christmas cooks. There may be some bumps to iron out, as L’Estrange of L’Estrange Design, Nutbutter is poised and ready to be ‘grammed. It’s millennial pink meets palm tree print and bamboo light shades; draping succulents hang overhead while leafy fronds cover corner crevasses from their pots; even the cutlery is rose gold. It’s very beautiful, and it elevates the atmosphere of what is essentially a counter service canteen. Poké, proteins bowls and peanut cacao balls succeed: a great view, a talented chef, experienced staff leading the charge and an already loyal fanbase. All they need is for Dubliners to get over the psychological barrier of eating off the beaten track. This spot is worth seeking out. would be expected in the early days of a new business, but I don’t experience any on my visit. The staff are friendly and knowledgable, giving good tips on what to order and steering us away from over-ordering (we wanted to try everything), and the room is a pleasant space to be in. We grab a drink at the bar connected to the restaurant after dinner, watch the rain hit Grand Canal Dock, and think about how lovely this veranda and vista would be on a sunny evening. Even in poor weather, it’s still a beautiful, urban view. Our bill, which includes a glass of Montepulciano (€8.75) and a homemade hibiscus syrup with sparkling water drink called the Queen Medbh (€5), comes to a total of €90.75. Charlotte Quay has everything it needs to succeed: a great view, a talented chef, experienced staff leading the charge and an already loyal fanbase. All they need is for Dubliners to get over the psychological barrier of eating off the beaten track. This spot is worth seeking out. board special (€15 extra per person and it’s worth it). We get plates of slowly braised short rib and then a board of pink slices of the tenderloin fillet (aka the chateaubriand), topped with onion rings and golden, fluffy chips on the of smesq s wuiett inith tarrah n (€3), with tteas cool and w, even to an oh I’zy entder, spefoae t butt n’t rd do n t curateau , tve ea en a variation oarhis dish a milelion times bi y brll ofhi y g up t go a e e pl t . It looks really houg o briand sharing h t t b ttu aer paesist t e c a eau rib and then a boar jelly divides the table but I know better. An b i s b en et pt w f slowly braisnd shor ve y, b t fu eels a lit-e tenwith onion rinke thd golden, flsic buffooze and e that comes from sousyou unconditionally’ , rli-oareg tdless of how y Featuring a dazzling array of thinrgs tao do, ou feel dinn in nqcolotu r tna pacioude h st o es yoeahr amentg sic ues oebranlertar a or separatblin, wy oeemted like a fis a cerl pttin o ta sielim ld g Df the sir trade-olff f tr t m n sig s b io s. I fla e p s to fosd shelf Jter anyisiousic collegummer light we .s of the B tt y B y ygt ave ouom ipite t atterins ac curminomler haovm, w e t is old e erhh-ceiesie f of re a v cy comg th uc at c tioos. I f utch masstt to Aprirt e oh whiskuy b ttles o ycevw ere o l le r rraes. Th STEP INSIDE STEP INSIDE The Hideout e sun as e arltvetacs sg ti e waormt everabg’es.in ap whi g out of the w warg og aner s stpw-s a es a in Dr b re cvaorlcusSo og r warming and climate change, the winter months in Dublin would stretch interminably from August to April. As students we would go to any lengths to find shelter anywhere on campus that didn’t house a library. That meant drinking in the bowels of the Buttery Bar, just off Parliament Square. With its groined ceiling and sloppily poured pints of Guinness, it served a purpose and the occasional bout of listeria seemed a fair trade-off for the warmth and keenly priced beverages. It was with the onset of our too brief sumwarming aln s e p s immhdiao ct tuly draw e woue c v, but fit six.ll a gap. revo ve oahrerroloser te oh tside on ach le o s s in Dublin w dSt interd depic ioermins y fros tu - my che it.ded aba “pe teack” o o hy’e ci y cenllegummer ligtion pub rf wh o t e Horsesinos, per orlif their amenAugust to Akn hl ea h g te e na an tb r r t eir tabtablismytt o um d thm ftkr dinnert se ne y hi h Waprin Shmte Saddle R et’ e nhin bp wit t p o liainh s hh-h Theguat i y h t. Speakah e ber o roves a s h e sessinli out tth ts gur den den h wn D lin,indohw-e pair t theshmt s o lod a p inkacee skin didn’t. I mnkd sigie a mler ga, shatbby t l lo t is no ve and mo d alf coing, impa n morf oolic, oli i h i t eir snugs, burude heqt y thin . It wpd t. I makhp t gs a y rgs t r a s ae 19. Thi h oe tal es e e bl m st a . Biotth se ogsr uigluires y asnd opa tta eswo pu e se su es arrde f tloom iapie phes w u s od m he S t lery rure I am de ur lolou t yt einul immedi en mics f , ate s aeir cosceoirylite t eiva d little di coties; thingh t hr the mino e repoytatcahin es hi g oiuah’ppene phre ate wwe eaorettluurgeo t entnen ” to fn Dlicublin th d t, Befi l h un l o i . Arintudenll of the bo ’s bld g nin olIMM - Th rt il haosmen nta s, p a f mern et o I m t admit t t uminbw lo nk f e a sin m iertth t n t oicen h ne had bhen inll of t io he bhere mos emi opiutharldtionth I must admit to a measure of opportunism in my choice, we had been invited to join family at their table in The Saddle Room for dinner - and it seemed like a fitting moment to perform the old two birds, one stone manoeuvre. In theory I would get to the Shelbourne an hour before dinner, belly up to the bar and do my thing. It didn’t quite play like that – two family members were standing sentry in the vestibule when I revolved through the door at about 20 past six. So be it. Walking out of the white early-Summer light my chpende ne had bhe do rhoa. Wer o j y more popiuta e cotnd t rader ft rr ft en ly int I m t admi into a mer tbiot of op a ini gle other. Si t estin asure o e waas ihi rtini gle other. Situ, te e one’s eyle is imm e s quickly m no thin h tminlalr us handpt t er ctiner to te , otr ely dra y a ac e c under i Rane evious guise a em a i e il s imm e clos v under i Rane evious guise a um one’s ey their tab ablis Sm en lli m S s t ’o t ot o h rtre r s a cer hnioin slicke diota. Add t ti han painerd deplize tuo hat tf a my o pende next do, w ext do r t it seemean t seem plospg mo v lice lo og-es ascussreemenoefit;fl haunt, pt it is no rader ikaar, tlo e a age olifirrly sly iden i ein estle in The Saddle R eom ft r dinn r ft r wouy y y sister reets Dao ta. Adver - an r establism less vumord the ci e s oer oer ose o se, lean towards silli m S vets Daky cenes evertines a “lar. Wster old two birdug Dr an trne mesnor wer un londinnerev miaabin ssem agevey’s is tethine sp a . Th-e . d c l h (€4.80) lea agious guilie a e vade ahin h ming led like a fs sdi cttinao ta o bn th the aso h s o o of what it i ae Ci ipef the sig o of wy com” t t ns ap akatr bliehed co kr oi the r s, onury S s n’s l y o s mg in tn a io d ab h ts ayt “bac rounhr ’ h b” t t t quit ideea. The prerenniat – tetttairenorwoy memwers e e stder i Ra kles aal aa in dens, b h with a q liina ht g bf Guinn h Shm s; H” of They’ ag T etter o seem Wet tao fortre I wou immeld g e ities; t pt 6p mar uerve be min se re f thosd-pllin g e catrinar ot St ous w ign morv e tolic, otli a eg l hm h’ens; Haisitpt oy’s, fesky centre roiu d atindly siith yt Wits aroune er bness in t eir r ugm tefi l haunsin the rougies; th e Rag Trader i va , teh. Ierg Tefoa , a et o t ed ewn q litad fhem gunfr te esefur b en ae plwl n sltly ident didn’ eghe gs ahr g h les of B ra t Staee tlgnd h hind rgs a uag m ain t dinner, belhl htbin Thh e i ls no do lim ens a o hlic, olivet eir sn p iny’s, I k oeasng coinot rerbeob. As wiadu imm di ate insig bt hm on Fblic ho s fou es ar er, csarrrtyiininku -lis-ot ompent t t refh n h set of thk dr g a simiied On ap e p er ga h e 19, bhr o famiuufavo sou raetetesh h hs depa denth oer kd ststep-c, b sin buinnese pair g t y up to t t S De b bhy t le 19. Thitid do my thinan an adorne bld sigki , shin d o hbb y t oy tt en th bu th a linl lg bg b f ts-en t et t a ouoe te t int id yo – peafo l e insig t into tleit d in tho t adopr aca b y lilkdens, b h w h a q lit ld ohi f Gys t t oh bl hr, turs t y opet ur situ r e s aroumter s n us han ld s assgteestineg aure oy ww lo k firat c o suco mry a, ten t t a g t o th y w e wa amle est abrlilshme F caat. Both spacious wrm ig rimet oahe t l estate pun g l e sl. B Dacioblih p imlco e we t ade t o t e Shwlho p ao tare mink afired their oe b r m t lg tebe – a fac ld pp t re t r hr nn aane b g di h thps th ua blic hs more a age o t a s an ylisb tae two pua k ve b ouses a e ess warhs a cer a t. S neg-es a h-h Thd te se Rh g Tlitt it h-h Th oeet oava t areuvr e Ram raderys an men- s ckh t h y of the sigrnn a en one’ a e il ertom teev , otr etside on h t 20 p en, w hin o e do rhted t ’s bur eren low-stakeer garumi benilidentt ent kln y are c hae oge h n le in Th s; H h ts ws, far b s o tbdin us w tea r rne t sinobanoygtiudenn toenes l y ident ate insig t into t een a ds ts. D -s perhli -a oave b ygtuden d their o te t n i, j n hh of oimfur bef oso adjhs tt dr n a c t les t quite p ae naeure o enaloytceaities, moav y o w d ps spo t (€4.80) ley jf G t th s, i hh oe y-drg to b wtf ca a limsate illed r t oid h obaethin inp t g. The er s s ore tm ey aes entio h me I’t Then s no dooe thnt tiners w ys t es g t gindoate t – two faart tub, betra e o ’ p ti oe y co ll of the b ’ o diffgeur n d oldiced a Walkino ra ts, neo hite ean sigwa e arlg eren odins no miabilitg a li le se vestiinf Pinten b coutitaeg ag rs nepace h apnd k nd ora didnt wa hoit pttbnh n dian Drub n campu age – t puse a lib e onset oof oes o o brrief suman r t ward iy’s is homts oe o hht t a t t se pf ace fwvse unnaos . The er ir dd a purpmed Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s poure less spole tt is no ar . W he fr om slioin , it r, or ‘ p Bucle P k nd thomly jo a per ecasyeri quaceh oit e s .rem s a e yt n D hi ppiinly wf th ft.s, ie o httllh of Pinterest urly, pllm deep crubeen croauce pr oart m atc sas lio therle a d blobs of soft go tastesh feel to many of fresh and perfectly of the seaso the dishes n. o an oh I’zyac aet , sr, encriat n n time is a prisny ball ohifonounced Fa kledio eash a miel d in a cr p ore, t s one trenc cheese. There are micro-greens and circular discs fresllh anell b la ance R. Ian has a backgeround in the wholesale fish et, but in h s ltd sane octopus dish has clean ozone tang but also the e clas I’m told that there’s no pickle brine for my douchey martini but the Negroni that replaces it works like popping a pacifier in a baby’s mouth. Another reason to shut TFU is a steak tartare that comes atop diminutive blue cheese sandwiches which have been steam-warmed. It’s a statement of intent. I’m a big fan of oysters, there’s little to compare with the experience of cold briny bivalves, tasting of oceanic sex, slipping and sliding down your gulliver. I’m a fan of cooked oysters too. Wiley’s Nashville hot oysters (a riff on the furiously hot fried chicken) are reason enough to come here. They are momentarily deep fried before being replaced in their shells with a sauce offering just a suggestion of sting. Sublime. Oyster mushrooms, parmesan fondue on sourdough toast is a pleasant thing to eat but can’t hold a candle to the previous delights. The dish I’d most looked forward to – pork hock, pickles, hot mustard, steamed buns is not on tonight, chef tells me that he’s not quite happy with it and that’s reason enough for me. It’s back on now and I will be back for it. Venison chilli is a deeply involving bowlful, profoundly savoury y while stie sltl ht ving a f l oft-seat view tennil €6) i’ s gr ugging iit out ro n hnow - Nutbutter Forbes Street Grand Canal Dock Dublin 2 www.nutbutter.ie Nutbutter Forbes Street Grand Canal Dock Dublin 2 www.nutbutter.ie Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com Rody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd I’m told that there’s no pickle brine for my douchey martini but the Negroni that replaces it works like popping a pacifier in a baby’s mouth. Another reason to shut TFU is a steak tartare that comes atop diminutive blue cheese sandwiches which have been steam-warmed. It’s a statement of intent. I’m a big fan of oysters, there’s little to compare with the experience of cold briny bivalves, tasting of oceanic sex, slipping and sliding down your gulliver. I’m a fan of cooked oysters too. Wiley’s Nashville hot oysters (a riff on the furiously hot fried chicken) are reason enough to come here. They are momentarily deep fried before being replaced in their shells with a sauce offering just a suggestion of sting. Sublime. Oyster mushrooms, parmesan fondue on sourdough toast is a pleasant thing to eat but can’t hold a candle to the previous delights. The dish I’d most looked forward to – pork hock, pickles, hot mustard, steamed buns is not on tonight, chef tells me that he’s not quite happy with it and that’s reason enough for me. It’s back on now and I will be back for it. Venison chilli is a deeply involving bowlful, profoundly savoury e oeen y’s M’on les on divp y b nce Le Cirk, l in th ur up t, of cot pse.ople resnlated pool ai h e ts netthe fen th tte tloi, p Mulligan and Haines, the otherwise unnamed English student who stays with Mulligan, this Dame Street bar occupies what was once Sweeney’s Mongrel, what was once Le Cirk, om o a p y tfuc.t y Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s e tximiter e e pub’s desigo utely BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM A SITE FOR GLAD EYES A SITE FOR GLAD EYEinS lhile, aw-st (€4.80) lettir d a s The Tioo e rhine s f owe. Thes t ag to be desired. ts p cash p b s e e; Htt p lo et ea’le wksh go lim Fe i n was qs n aving a little som rno e wor ini depg, s ena l r d-hugi ies, mn t y ome ee e e ttaur waoe wugies, m eview Hut tere re ator an w it was p g t y a beeatet thdly d sig waugs, both b ugtin arrau in t eir snugs, batg ca er a pa o a ms nsetohe of a mst cunism in y a entio h t e con ere a singe th ba ine 19’ a g tut of o irabls n g a o ms ts tate rnliy en for a Fugm t o t ue assume e wk watll of the ba odg vn g sen u vcenis h hum tit co u snhg tte eace ace to loh t t uich h t a r t gd tl ho e ih the dooa gr ae wbe tinhld e en be fy assumineg that t erh er orrt ame th . Si s p w Willi m S oos Da oo ta. Ad , B tind , p e of Jh adjh in s g-eslin that hrIMM - Ths oeguoatayr g motinng j o per or pmances t. Thaosg, a ents ajrh ad e whive tr o diffy-Sero tr wg rse ah e l s nn Dub n champuos that e Rag Trader i h . Ia uxikffary s ret h intn o ppy otini gle eserabliuhment t a g to rec alize the o siderablin fa e py as ra o S u ount music co tre roiu with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from aps thaourne ah peen a drde -wo osore wn sleinly- t e mh sndinhe decisioigs a e reah o thin snd I dinks in t eir r ta ffo ewtn quat. Sl W iinhr nn tuxi er en a d ded their o es a try in tty t aesg a li t coloh uov lit o be desired y me th pp ra en , b t fill a gaa enturedp. Thlg S he ibb o dooasoor sepg covlin, bhe twnys t ppue osedly y o aceen tese pair ebra din re 19. Thiicttae n mo h ags miythin -llesde. tigel nh b pes n was mhol esoto atio o o c, ta gy ano t er mon sy rg vi en for e wad boouu ld even be fr o vo y sor sepaagrance wayet, w t y t ale sbmli B t ten Isiest ur ach age, earovbpene f Th av arwo difgft ro t en enceowa-ys. s s f t d t e Rag Trader fed dir c s non e ven sa n tytt g particuutlhrllo e d tov. We to joy morefninlurbg re a e game s we v e game as an ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the er or fo o array cetwa-ys. enectly inlt en l nh g a g cohi d aild he p ot ent h a qu liinmiuly mem ersinge. The ny teTHE HOME OFleacenallhy behind a cs that ve e waugh the douc -t ablout 20 peas d thrnaoled ruovdo t o . A hintudents w a ae wae cs ango, tashile higeme l hinTHE HOME OF lwd un anell aprseurrt ld cost mse tey concoc s iappenee d to have tnould goning reyacewa-ys. e, BIMM - The h mun a e ativoer the waact prophrt een y prl like Im t was ma , whan et oaf onesioul of ir trade-olet bff f l hin py com rmth a s of the s with the o s car t w naletd ru om, w otrd wat THE HOME OF in-Du dp asgero get into tu-die lily asticles, but it prov surrept tious Rennie imme e exterhs oar eir a femain e do toaeed Rit, g uxilifr façy serff thade rtet of ra o shotud t ererd a wo shpposee g tet d hea e enio h ffn gts. Dk-s pervav ep y caves not to h e wh ter mont fsld al a gaps r umin oeror a n ouf th t six. ee io avin ace ft co uromle when It d, i y wroporamle est bliehment t eso Dublinf’s Besest B.Y.O.B pool hall.v si nd a co h cert wsin yld lil hts t eir cockur halva JAMESON e w art een y prl like I’m y-S n o anlnt n g r e fodr ition u eh-ceid a d, is o raits, neog pies wo ions. I fls once ust a mis e wa rt acr occu n signagat wa eeiced ’ ee THE HOME OFt nd k BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM lin ump Bucdo BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM A SITE FOR GLAD Elf orn any w a d wi the men fu ubi lin-befosgres o diate t g bf Guinn hse -osedly Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. JAMESONOR GLAD E’t is sn a s rays. Aquisit h ur too brief sumA SITE Fsideca s tbrue l d fine. Th eninaYES e wlh tuinn e pizzas. I order Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 085-2357664 A SITE FOR GLAD EYESor smo es a Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, ’t tlid oot of aalIl n’s unpretent r oks tg cous and rw skonts and 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767ngealrt on a crr ss isn’t the goa g md relentless refinement n as The www.thehideout.ie , none more so than a dish of lightly Web exclusive cnontent also. um sauce (adding v ffour and a lot of er i u) a e too ind when tag tienp. Locks 1 Windsor Terrace launch their Christmas lunch menu on Wednesday 2nd December. Locks 1 Windsor Terrace launch their Christmas lunch menu on Wednesday 2nd December. www.thehideout.ie attenn a neig bo ut if yl oat can fee ’y Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. becomes wearing s w Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Harold’s Cross Rd, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W 01 406 6936 places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. them included the best (stre.wberrty) sorbet e eater I’ve ev Ition a d fourh o l Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. in-D b tion a rd fourunoa mulliganandhaines.iet a s an procaeppero room pegu a on Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Featuring a dazzlinhg array of things tpo do,iolr? Probabb b regu a n Is it wortun hut i Harold’s Cross Rd, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W 01 406 6936 www.thehideout.ie Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. to its o igins w Harold’s Cross Rd, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W 01 406 6936 Rody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd Rody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com Locks 1 Windsor Terrace 1 Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8 01-4163655 locksrestaurant.ie Locks 1 Windsor Terrace 1 Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8 01-4163655 locksrestaurant.ie places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Featuring a dazzling array ogf things tro do,s a sohe gpalid opt I s Itt’ ur urin tioden fnr t eao m sonaoo , to a o ulf ‘iats’y dit o e d e m s rays. All the w places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Featuring a dazzling array of things tpemo do, places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. to do so ehich in55 menludes two bo ttrt wiles oth stout s bes to €104, excludink Featuring a dazzling arroay of thinkgs to doio,n s pospple t hort ri . Anfacebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ McGarry’s 236-238 places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Featuring a dazzling array of things tao doh,f stie fll wa ftlaice cream a d a condensed pl Featuring a dazzling array of things to do,uce (addin omato woaramel a d p line ice cre menu) aram stays t is jellified fn b hile delie ling a fll aelair of finous a m esstehf l. O n ADVANCED PICOSURE®e chou br others, t LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION ness ownehic lot b or me a restaurant that engendersd twl o etimi h reald wly lolvc he name of the ice. LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION e conttesn’t ale n e LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION ext o erries. I liat thie t eay’ h a h sinh Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie base doord at to eaestyere. o sprinkled in goji b ppea else hw ere,” he sa diet. “We want our menu t empt meadol e diet. “We want our menu to be accessible to everyone and to add to the choice of what’s on offer On e third eveninht ea Ita an at home, thutter for a pl hant-b e a Thaid mds like a b la ance that I c else hw ere,” he says. “One night you might eat Ita ali n at home, the next you might have a Thaile. trictive Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic associate with Texas barbecue. Unlike Texas barbecue though, it doesn’t really taste very much of beef, or smoke. This is something of an achievement for a live-fire restaurant. The whole flat fish over live fire schtick has been doing the rounds for some time now. Originating, inevitably, in NYC, London’s Brat (itself a term for turbot) and Träkol in Gateshead have led the charge in what used to be called the UK. Those fishes (and their ineluctable dishes), having navigated the breadth of the roiling Atlantic, have in due course conquered the stout-dark depths of the Irish Sea to wow the seafood-averse Gael with the haughty thrill of their piscine totality. I note that the kitchen has eighty-sixed the langoustine that used to adorn their brill dish. They have also eightysixed the brill. It has been re-plaiced and plated with a handful of mussels and four clams. The coral-spotted plaice is a fine eating fish, white fleshed and clean-tasting. It’s delicacy and digestibility have long made it a favourite for the indigent and ancient alike. Nevertheless, in the flat-fish pecking order, turbot is the ne plus ultra, brill the next desirable. There is a large gap to third plaice. I will stop doing that now. It is an enjoyable preparation, deftly cooked, with the shellfish sauce perked up with some wine (perhaps vermouth?) and chives. However – it should not carry the same ticket price as the advertised brill, and actually became more expensive as the night went on. It was €34 on the menu and €36 on the bill. Inflation is a bitch. Those Brown Butter and Miso ‘Roasties’ taste of both of those things (which is good) but eat like leftovers, yielding and defeated. I’m not going to write about Hispi cabbage. There is a lot of potential here but the flavour profiles of too many of the dishes seem curiously polite, when I had been expecting full-throated profanity. Cooking over live fire conjures certain expectations and Mr S, on this night, did not live up to its name. The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 The Horseshoe Bar atlled the drap d a coi aggryedients o p t dingi l m picationsu a tre drinper e Bd a coap, Stug pecired looking A ro oa in y The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 The Horseshoe Bar at n er ect a blvoank walle 19, tttem as pt ttoron wilder ost certa ee oravse tratte totte its nh rm, orh t b tl The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie each oo e b tlder thppi n t r p ue imum a, w menu doks I f e a cen 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 Humphrey’s d h en . Utnrlike its namesaena , i er f s a sacttk o t co ld b klit o tioe b f th ioan gamseaic ins y s e otio less.) Aet ao sw esn’’m fe hlininnd tinhick draiisdf idacllic picll no colin ur” t il, inht ad pr Bt v n… a drpe o eraunlic pos fl thn d o t r y cohmppor the fpoos anh e notre o lohhich p” Cmitn fem 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 lesos.) As Ilefd buraidinl Cr ler oop o er kou hhd ite i he m nfbsdov A dirn hao tte s ace ae n ics oler a’h puusaerf hyoes “r edteate o io . Ficidedly fit for pf eyose. 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 pu Stage 19 atn s cee’ s seeusueaoe ta; itik uln .o im t tii enhe bwa n, wh g t trehhm pninbletas pertside wlhisa ey cot cocest o li h. M uet to fore loer bt tto peren d tor hr thit;h the lens aube ties temenknesg in term c f their amenan ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the oice d ab t oovo reeaen invt te he wa os d dir cpice coo S or t” of The Riath rader fed direc es a “ p ace to loedian wa e ven sa n tyt hag par icu g d intteesloseg a toue assume ation was quickly m p veo s i ea’ackshta ay of o,ur situli B t t e e hinked o e 19, bhroer kd se rsnt ty of our situts prlcaagsh pub s e e; H bl hr, t s i ea’aclitkshta agesiest hinked oge 19, bhroer kd s th b ep-co suome s-e ual a irtaur way t ettuge uts n thild of th ts prlcaagsh pub s e e; H ade app ra ent as w lgicue venture ge,siest d S DRINKINT OUG St ON CLOUD York Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having operated as a bar since 1661, and the essentially untouched Victorian interior that you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Reilly in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention of its name elicits in many a knowing smile and an assurance that it’s one of the preeminent venues in town for dates that you don’t particularly want anyone you know stumbling across. The root of this association remains someYork Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having operated as a bar since 1661, and the essentially untouched Victorian interior that you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Reilly in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention of its name elicits in many a knowing smile and an assurance that it’s one of the preeminent venues in town for dates that you don’t particularly want anyone you know stumbling across. The root of this association remains someSOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader On ap ideac wo umpe rey’s, I ki el n lim entra proa. Thrg St g d a em age, tow From tg time – a fache de From tg time – a fache de On ap ideac woe perennial r d-hairh b tlin b bly a bad rance way aboumpe rey’s, I ki elv y sew it wa nce way. As we proa. Thrg Staur way t n lim ent s probab. As wly a bad review Hut thhr lat review Hut thhr lat v y sew it was pro ag businesse ettug nowling b sines abo atio v , otr ely dra y ano thinr h tminalrenlyytured p ace to lo diahe ven sa n tyt h g par ain d depicb he ane way oach huc e t ao rea y d t of a md btr tk walsl of th-e baae n y b he doe ‘h. Wphrr n g Te m t ref lurb sh rd e g ao t n ossumeporrt unism inu tu r ot d l “ e t o t h i hsiderabs nls on uc s sarsr-iner examwith covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from n was m ongs milling n was m ongs milling ade to ade to e ual attir d ass The Te y’ cen s umpgiveohe rsn li B lit e e e pertennial rsed-hair nuts n thild of th cen ss Thble Te y’hr hep-co some e p’les of th o ers, for bge puy morefurbtiuhaerdun uo- th ove tkum d the cir bett n uglize tlictio king, tn onhere was n e o h bu ierathd ack o t e co siderablin fauch by aier, th wade appe cent as we v l r th a s s s ose h e peottlsly int e R aere mbs’ t a or worse, scussehd t e diblisfhfed cockion er o o s mi arr e o S t verhrs d aoeugh the lens outh wd b k wall of the b yyar only o s asf the f l with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from inhe moment t t reflecsiocited in the thr inhe moment t t reflecsiocited in the thr Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 The Pavillion Bar The Horseshoe Bar at visit cony tp e tf t e I cime I ch t e t p mulliganandhaines.iei tara s onunae i , b th cot kt ir t 085-2357664’085-2357664m f lin le oim e t angcide tictuinns” t w olf bht ndarhib bl amesea ’niein nt to be aioyw n si This ioun’s a tt frin agg ed nvn anliav tth out t enu. U otung a sl e, bmteh coioktewtt h an over ice gu or una e y n o ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one esooetde bal a Ulfy ter t bt s ets hiae wald bts waarac er o thy osr e P t eir lead f p be iing fonioe f bvior s, biosh sm ll yet o e an f idehlf idel n er anraioolinan sur ir d looking A ro ow acco” unaract, boah co kteiar t mulliganandhaines.ie. Ut rlipkro yaepp of thd f ls (€9.50 e y mer acttn n an oop o eniaa, it o t m t np th f migers us a dit t e conogart ed oes depictinldld a. Ra t erun e tha draft cou o l sh inag de aassiderr d oths st fin in a cot ing Upotrumodsa, depips. M no a rn iegrotry bpra . or n Poy’s face is f nzen inthicy fd discrmis rro a s t one anoth orm d, deaptattins o hh k o urp h co ker orn to s.m the dirt Humphrey’s looks g g an s s a din imllossonaua eer ocuopo place fgs a g more lid vh th o . On ays n rahinn, loiohl ay’u r whe scol r gs, a McGarry’s 236-238 McGarry’s 236-238 delivered I’m forced to cut short the tableside conversation. The resulting intrusion results in some tepid food and a charge of €30 on the bill for a single glass (not mine) of wine. I baulked at a $26 pour of California Pinot the previous week in New York’s Union Square Café because I was forewarned of the cost. I’m told that a sommelier (hire) is imminent. He or she cannot arrive quickly enough. The food here is haute couture, the rest of it seriously off the peg. Those mains that languished before us didn’t quite live up to the smaller plates. The mussels accompanying a hake dish have been over-smoked (a point made by the chef himself during one of his increasingly jocular visits to the table) resulting in a dish that had been battered to death by a stout length of hickory. I have no doubt that the error will be amended. I’m a little too annoyed to care about the duck at this point (post wine spill) but I’m told that it was perfectly good. Desserts were well received but I don’t have atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping At least ten minutes after mains havhise been o-urioh way k d n acq onckpd bhr (Guinnles’er avad discr f hiorruesoly. W two sides: i o evers y ten t nhoulurrenep p ceno v t’s h bOftic Thpsur ic t cour, Se Fd a ci le t its avian namesa e wkt oondrne a o n it tads ineimuscuiet cole torray sepe Horasn s imme wa, e-am.lryw aree be f j e Serras al d r de ace – Ms sp ts t nt lie cadir hnln &ee. la ery er h a d dra m m ide llcokty th v yrac modern pa ro ls t tn. F lr t walde 10 oirfe n Ulysy’ure tor tr i, m uin in drinker, your sV “n ar y in ke w es tgs n ht p h-a e a ss . To p €4.70, pretty rerft f baae n o bycwas hs mign aane stoot fe aagor io scene, smwler vtenn wr gue rel um My companions and I darkened the door of My companions and I darkened the door of Drury Street’s latest arrival h, t e Rag Trader, at Drury Street’s latest arrival h, t e Rag Trader, at about 6pm on Friday – peak after-work drinkabout 6pm on Friday – peak after-work drinkviding. The chef himself subsequently spills the beans on this, if that’s not a food metaphor too far. Or even if it is. At this point I make the mistake of pointing out to one of the floor staff that the wine list really needs more scope by the glass. atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping Wh annh e tnns smta n nlogdwa ihum”owaaas casn hi va bras e fon n t ohf plgue aorrd I r uilite t. This mio ”ping te ses s cast tbs sic - atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping ug proposi wai p s tltpeslk aers a e hous thro bw ack th td whlat waomhverb tle, a lis t d at adher nudderg p t throwback tahn deed h ldert as iinces thh ina le poe ace ned tr oueicea. Ivllin be oletr tfer anp , desicc iold By (st I cre soud the dospooosa p e evd thatr’sop The Sam Srt tver soherl t an s b g v es t upuio in tak b iner e so of the ro bt in gue r nnd t nhr dy btimus d d te 19’ hitttr n e cefn, unm e-entc vaftpf ba eear aad terd n t in t t inp aj rr dene o acerots t e wo h wa aesvt waers thoasoruug lied qe ahd tn m et u into t Havins. Irt wae papst se hh a dt leg aga Hainberdas e wtiot slt tt sigt at legiuest hi e M&H co ant sy t Aep ace in th y t e vauca f p ace waimisin eye over the r thp Ses b ecaayakpret r’ ns fiess, wlele sura ossem a nice con ter a ure o n) b r (a sderr e t t t ad heasitspoeosa eye over th tim eing te De rb aenereead C ts m less, die td b e res ec a y kg co erat t virlsof oes oprhloer vs e ohings) I’ t a erls os o a, in t ke mists o v yerinaueicea. Ipaces, a y rprt a’s.s ftittets, we sott os e lless, die t e pr o bh imaer afro beers on o er t bo stini e, t eret hh r , bolt i in t w beers on off barn corno t a pngs oes oi g o the show are in-tune ta e nowoug its avian nam rig hi ff commlohn l h e de ovevaretn d o d of Guinndert h-e lee wiod th t’ er t’e die t h tno On collect eg a re bd oesa b’e sou . W ratenie Li h a h the show are in-tuclh luc wab plin b havh clots ond ow f f m inin hb letd up t t id t S trbjuc ae ses. rts ado o be fuer unremarp.rae ment ianen t , a kll ee etctiold Bwalvl Iledie Colub’m a nice co pt ren ded o er s ep kl d odo R ile drka. I t d nos e si-aqrlicio ts (€5.30 ader h o initih. On eo ad ais a b kt g t aair. Ths m w cin o not a mi lio iokino cocs fr ine . As. Ths a C n mt mig o m es ig srmer us i tiohetic tg ot somo r he phr yi e wa’ f in ya c ugh. Onnecio t m t heoof dra er g oaeu s tt erb y ge og ves s at setmls tessicisome oh ceae p modern pa rot a The s ho ra d rk by’um. A n , mac h sin, dots te aorsoey sizefand rsdetoin ht h ee vacy a b sh a d sd v e derh s. I l h vor ge l li drinker, your stacta errmouos lhrl space noet a c t o a e wer ace fns ta abv €4.70, pretty rea pso an ble f wa ra t o hi hil ld ny (a umos owe f p int. Llikerre nt, p tuer va oder obad v waue ty’rdles. H s imt a s enate oen s a prad en lo o s ys a crenh’ure o i hlts jd loca two sides: its sg h his d o u t ast wtorugokainavy re p d tam um hat coley dieco, t keeds ah e being t e w wa t es t wats jb At stlh m in Th ht ur S ao gs atte way td cohreld t t e o overts e whlic p etioa being the w te sp fy wm ce sug. Thie i um and nigh lawles shirking owt acgtoh leuazzle, n avian count anpn thy ahie wa eac in nugcewledh d ”ls t ey’ wa s I pld r n y’s face isidering t es tno a rext.us oe avian count Ad derliciothneke (td as meanr. Th art, we same uihsintugntuwepiea dhat H ho lo throwback though. One merely has to cast eye over the respectable selection of craft beers on offer to see that the folks running the show are in-tune to the desires of the modern patron. For the less adventurous pint drinker, your standard Guinness comes in at €4.70, pretty reasonable for a town pint. Like its avian namesake, The Swan is a creature of two sides: its sophisticated, historical bar area being the white, elegant, public portion of its avian counterpart, while the concealed, darker and nigh lawless area down the back represents the little webbed feet going ninety below the water. One might appear more impressive, but it’d be nothing without the other doing the dirty work. anecionrn s ws Gend my’s face is f nal Di o lot rn y l’ ich incrni i l rr r and nigh l w of the cr tem u doy b s f ive ls a Cs thtl ps. M’ foesig e thic f hls deem sents the little w bb d fa e dring ninetd Io’m lesueor d tt, td w tts ob ounh co irg co s g n ew tloslr o s tlin b er anove. Rr-mding sents the little w’ebibted fethe drirg ninetd b t a b n) bol gad tuhae b ps euinn the water. On t rudderless aao swee oeuhroun ow aebucorgnlvln saurfttr sepem ht beerin wilder ul Ith trhcea hin tuhhres od ie p ace u hat ba .egle ilder the water. On g co tppe, inaoar um a nice co k wal o ets to t e s d t ae Thht lad pio e de v id tl Cr iooded ourcr but it’d be no ax g w coot a as ttounv u glif Retp) fo y itht it co’t to e oesces nohinp, oit wer doeence o but it’d bHumphrey’sugs aesad o hut a y co prawiun tliiotioe baf tha te ‘inteey n y are sim l tiof slace hlbs rk whiod a t The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie er in size a le t s saats and plder tk , Droerhn m We cou n t e behple o,f leruoses n y g y n en hi perlegath fl b e vahotr romici, qauiet an s wacs? Onin flh ea hmle sh na d M ftan ace t emprref itst in t ce t e wi o lld ry low h H bopainert aspe a Th ts “p ar wnense fo d o t. A f w tlestet? W s surio bs a crea e rhg a bs, i e t lcos Nf her na dg atini in ta urluravrena smy (aocr a g diathls cla ts soph , Th m b arn ilrattini in taedrais im ent b o g p a ers t y licuet es ag t u f ss? On um a oasieroh a nos ten l aw tn orf pats, tin ia og a r o coatiossroin waotar roodiate dr s tahli s h n t in hle iioagusat hn waig- i lobanioert ” next do ngsh a rhe bce t, s et dresd w r a t ve wan her fy co pd n whagued G at g teg agaem linin, itac’o bg a d to sin o l ry tles drere w ptr n m co hmteepe oltgg wer fl a d b acq n a er d Gl bsit ere as prrtors on inse coal tiowaee a t th acora ir s a lo int es in at n t Episo liqhos, t ar pr ss adelvade of trhe bn sue , eusivac legh. Thiy expeacr gion, s a look: a in rn tn s qd tthlosaerg e th y m orhror (a s , Mtentjae deaoareses s suract rod tic es t em in D Ror-to-ceimhus a e f ort of colt y com e . Alead u tn ’ mu ti-dier oin e c uf €20 I co o dies s ga wn e ment ihtion t o t e desirrorgs o t s e to b iojer unrnfemar rapa dn to s peo ’sh h s une t k. Floo youg p h e mae ac f b, dod omervew h y t ecem te t, pigsvthusoled o n. F t stpe ent s s, siwe wc bthooue of t lfld rly burn tbld redetain s on, uae aamospotug c cpuin hiod po t ps t e o y s i lld curacorat tl lie d ohice tk by a brio hw o t eir closnr . Ons) le ve t t ev dy sew come wppllint tseerne lis h a , so w r d in p ep Where the two markedly differ is in their atmosphere. That being said, the idea of ascribing a value judgement based on this divergence in ambiance is somewhat thorny. Smyth’s is routinely jammed with well-heeled denizens of this, the leafiest of the leafy suburbs. Its milieu so much a celtic tiger throwback that, for those of us unmoved by affluence ogling, the mere thought of crossing the threshold (especially on a match day) can be nothing short of exhausting. Humphrey’s on the other hand, whether it strives to or not, manages to cultivate an absois utterly seamless, they even share a bathroom. Somewhat thrown by this revelation, we sniff out an unclaimed table in corner and begin to fully take in our surroundings. The first thing that strikes you is that the NO UGLY DUCKLING The Swan entire pne pcotnace it sririo e crttke id imt et ovhelt losaof sknal Di pen f taimm n tk s, s om tt, faace im n t , a n g co less a u m e s tlhtb s a brtkin f craln oftsun d Roros h uunning p, tt ble s Rlee ro Re is lolatdie C y S ci linp) fet o Ruvsf thln tah, o e oioy h e urea en on m tar f crainfd tahe bus , voper ce. u te an n. a s u o sescree are m On coo ott lee ocoun of qt tuder’uinneus s-aniow-d ded o en i ohno-s nook t ta le s iinleudderless a uor ane les surbenjuc uinpur iug a petue ed se unh aadn, wa s) le ce t ir e les ue faç herf €20 I code u d. Tl sn o pet h oafe poe to plnesure ways m e de n vmingg a r n o uuo orbs . Ae w n.h a u aax uslp) fks r t aleas toun dering Robks,aen wl m serrnethin te phterong ou f Jwere erocrer err y hic t o cas irtenetic licenwe o h ll ot come mhir s Gengt oie Cls (aeldeoa Cotchtta ery admirapls a m y hn t et gw y, nod t oochtaosansy g saryaces,h i A d licioi in size ad M kl b y o o sider i llt an ery aet h ‘fe was sli hy’n w on esio tioaacace in tats jhst, aslace t iding a h - sp ff p d M k ace t o o n do ae m aesrlaesina y (st I creod tus e nhrounerere oble n t et f hlin Bg tht e b rtd throuny ma. -uy thature o e m aestin sa eminaro e, se spf shemis d wd aith a s traf a c ain eacmd th mod thbn d wimie eth a p shirkinticens G et g e Ce p rl unl oh, n onymf tdo Rm tvait it , pr d hs n eviohnf m oy obg sled in D ee L e desirf vaoh’e bnd othus dies s dcle ssis wall-lif n t hhuaded ty cen r o e fr af qur si-abs as t ta tnn) bua c sr pp oar aes o aax ade o hun a f w drawh ur pt nasper ce co es in Wes ly h k b h ext I co s def t covta o com o bar roo gue r le fa pc lal spr rse sotoh. Skergeeio md l n shlro o t ln y v n wuinnlne or at tsely draaps t o we w d in prepimahilneinndt w hich mor catmtndinovrun e a s duerd p or o ar pdrrae t-r ay war e or t gr Slisv’ere b ts adoa w ines l gerad noing aace fit l dra t p h warice ty a er es a esaetewoeythina thhe b dkoo hiainllk a ic h dr An sh m in Thtquisitiur Soro go g ow Yoyrrk. Thi h t ue oes uc sigreantse Fo a d a l ocy o p wateo p odt,l or nane pas ceilin n a t t ermto g an m e co les Pimm icooet ghe bph on o o ts ueraavine a u an a r iog aess, we s. Thnls mg co le impres v er repf p hiith ‘fa. Thlohd ount rnas we w hr ts a e n t e p erhg oueps co the dirty wor pr strbjuc sss, siween y a b drainf Serhoue t t k. in rhof va d hhoh’erbt alic desk d. Thl wa . Thioh t y wor wa gs oroem tva , prevtng a o d o y size li toe detealeva Thnsy h ur prrosper ce g a so hrm, orermo .u n e nothind , bu od hn D hpitatl aer do ence o thh y a fa n t he i n kl e Retrh o Rtppe, indie Cln obbs’reesa ver. Wae wtdder aterbt I ordered. A sop t thin On cor (a slt tle e der a Bte cf clebratnerele ghaeed a vu o coh cee oa bsin in new ciery (st I cr et alen oow D o a e ok wa ier e t h taf eacdin s a brthe mig king trotinoun ad prligrtrbsts (€5.30 a , cica he mighld Biil radine r ’t lieremi t in ro a rtnd dish t m h n tanouesqk r t rum osro mhes ig srmer use i a r v a hra tinenua, tekesny b hw low, decr enu , thd aless, di e t aer ti ees s o pu doet a h me ere spticehegtet.’imlace dom drpet h inhicikdda lee nf tt t . Fittinggryeefe o aes hetic terao swet sos teone, soe rhnt of tt ta y g t aa waoinoskesnt o d thp er a e nowag o fts adoio s u, meuinn im inl d pt t. hile drs. y tere t grau eceps prr n tmigr t exphwytn fr , licvt tlm ay bwa, wa ure wr g l lies t th tl h k. Sice t an ov a o be fo unrer ice ger unr usaerpkanion m a enachicae seensatioti nnts of bf ml wemith a vbenlead u a p s f met gkllled thee dra e asidehs t a. I ll, td witts of e p ll d the dra e ae speace imo fd wd aigh ae p s ar a do P conyl. Cue imekue imio ps. Me ogirer ic-t” Cni ils dene, td iro e bo s fa zen inh teacs. I’ logeir le d ie iicliels a pd qe a en I met u , eace in their leg ahtd ligts u e le th its a ld ih Thora nya h’tt line M&H co. ktt s lne waurbkdd u hinad fsll R d ice i ag te M&H co nvh y’y) refim teo “ete raise H rt t ey’s fin prt ue snthe 19’ acq et bts h n ltpot n o o in et a cy lo f ghih, whiis imm erior desig p ras co o coioaostarnow t, peuaoaps unowa ra nr a ttioo sit in qruicy n trt onp aemh er (a d p t m braade) , y ssls, siw emte win r thrpr eir cki y burce a e pov u e o c uinn i pange or a g a s. Thiqotuninghe w c oe fhr p ara , e t mg G bio btlh a t? Mol f i Ulysiop ss wsotneme n r oad h o hep iacetueser n marsne wan o t ate s, hiotreery nes aes te am e s lega henl ctaio tooresteicld hline oa ho finie nt d t lonshy btin pattsue s en m caaratn aanr, hn’ s p rq nAn A wt l stok rlder t laan tl n thr y’g h ic r t esist hir orno-s A Poiro m ten f s mf spensa irts negh t b tio a doin a cotg ele of lc- a e way gger anin us oeet yoeso e et g lleaun ht o’e pprueroses n s a mahc g troemse v d idecoo t r ics c umni) ahin f uughe e w. s ld tway e er f razzledesl of salinitzen ini. The drink, wht r ect stwais h n js migs c pfo t a e tuoasoot f penyn oay wa urg ses et lel finpy’h ese crt at legwismimising in a coe b ld a kphord the lilg hlipiaoint tne woinrac er or r s cs tinwa t I rysrsesotuir h co lies t t G Thoen ie emn inots je se so .r ps ot. Win f hldim to “t n ino pf shvle hacd ta s cu ave dh t hcwaee sig’e yay a mt thi s s lo steint fnee tld ‘hi gen, hiithlpy lickaintar area u phi y cen h welic p he io th Ult ere b h f s a o ai ura o e wr erl umine a s dou esis thi itks. St. A ea left in t. Qt tbse e es im et o s r, td cohh, in H ap p e sane w ext. t, pubtt, aad fion o er da png w uuct te ec e thhae facelif d in D , wit h res ined anl io r y to Raoinuv Fler ice gn ahollic deskle sid. Th, c ade t a oluradeon ravy t d b t a blosld tnhe a m a p recen v bt t stee imle oro e tasi idinhts aen mrac sn.ci t wace hh am, o s is omt , h s lef ino r acg n’t liw tb. Fittingryedien es p loh o f h et. r tts ty cen redere fu cea hin tuhspoosa er oa ur ets to tae s atgle th d i hvwaro h l a af qine lim orvtt ai,.taul Cr nlg a sle gmaetw t t t twth d ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one es, wle signl bs caerer uisitiue woyok s o e.u urer , hl b’ lg tls a pang o e 19 i e k, Ips olw Y ntimre C deem. A oeportumy y admirable ns neg o ur u y. W waetroinac e b tositio d In t’em lesnbhn gar mre sy tst adh sie ter idinp thtext I co ld gt coump, s asra eole od prltur m b Stage 19 lnyo od unhhiooation wad lo d l ” whit furb unoh in tho gos Ng ilty di einle dress h n n e re M&H cocem of hli ts w k. Thi cowarrles is bh n ao so e nee sig les a ppe vnnet likopkvs o wa rate o ic A t in , sm n s r g o ci s lilt d ple a he sity oucy-hpros ll spf p or l vereont, per ebsie wg atb o hhwn fhqm ada y scrane fy, desapo cole trhesen litor -ea as er t eme many s urn anre that hig B fgs dor b s a lo ith a r t pe bro p h e b en exh r t eir so p e inh tineg it. s w co hmntginer andinf er dinn , I retlr r , f r The B erhin i a e oe e egat tst expace mnae w klfaces haae b e At g we a serhly-i genitll Ay lickinaay, Sttm in Th f sen t. I pic” wu a epd . Rn h behind it? Moy m ercnio. Sa ets hiy aa a ca et tn or rse soo o we o o en y s trass haas migdrahis imag rd fl Th r y nee o s s o sains miirhldic ble k u ep t ats ug fn me ae could resis a Th sy h be looking forward to an encore., ier a coupacttle h) f The Pavillion Bar l After dinnal, I retuc ero the po r s s lebagererin avg aroun , stll of g sy es e nsgrider t e-mill bar bio s The Pavillion Bar umpu coen in and traun-o uco ta e me l as p wouas, bur r Stage 19 e men o en f gin as R s like a h pe-miisl b r biin sured f titioun ee thI p the men fu gty swl si le, for The Big B n. I wsio k, a “nder wowild avhat i e u co fp l onts gat d t ver wesf-thy-hoely aftaer draei less.) As I fer a tioeb t lesiv hces mis f idalo slic proe t er orn to s. s (€5.40), w the menus be looking forward to an encore.e b inh, be it m h) fallth was in e over oww deal aft hizza ets his s s al t tae b aree of th ing Ut ien , its th d y bt ts stil h cies’ o n uine t pe expy ienr the f h dth Summer Swo pkhe of idetalie t-o fee oitou faced casptaoss oinl hicitaste is sp f u t ol cov wi ne amo pier ec en… a drink e toy in-Dll of glin-bb sts o s is a t ulhe-midy m der we bt ir fles a our well a t the nrecesizzald cost me t ore-yoh t state in thiurltables. Worse experop a, w ts taha r e P g a b in s s that could b ort o t n to ty c a uch t wh ering y sweet to t e poru y mun l b r b t s p wou s, burh of s he bt nlen lietaks. A r los p. W a s an t o aepperes depictinnd arpa cenell ims aldllf o room pl and rich, shot through with the fresh heat of jalapeños and balanced with gouts of cooling sour cream. The accompanying cornbread is the best I’ve had outside its native country. If it’s not on the menu you should petition for it. The dish that many will gravitate to is, of course, the fried chicken. They would be right to do so. Right now it is hands down the best in town. Perfectly moist thigh meat encased in a salty, spicy coating. The biscuit is perfect, the corn slaw more than an afterthought. Go get it. Their banana split is a dessert to put a smile on your face as it puts a notch on your belt. At least two of our party are instantly infantilised. Service is charming throughout and it’s immediately apparent that the floor manager runs a tight ship. The food here describes itself modestly but it could justify much bolder claims. I’d give a joint of my right pinkie for a restaurant of such quality in my manor. For the lucky denizens of D7, this is all the neighbourhood restaurant they will ever need. The rest of us will be hard pressed to find a better reason to cross the river. This is a North Star to follow. side. I c seaso en d al rs pos it worts, t aossing t anes anl of my h cr by exhibiting style and substance. In the kitchen, jars of fermented cabbage are on their way to becoming kimchi for the chilli, lime and tamarind rice bowl (€7.50). The bread used for their toast is a deliciously thick wedge of sweet brown bread made for Nutbutter by Lumney’s Bread in Inchicore. Their Nutella-style cacao and hazelnut spread (€3.50 served on toast with banana, bee pollen – I know – and honey) and almond butters are all made by Murray’s team in the kitchen. Similarly to Sprout & Co, the plant-based busipalate fatigue begins to insinuate itself quite n. of al s untpreten aus ane reaskoe faood so absorbg t a Web exclusive contenbt also.y cirole of puff pastr of ‘it’o its o d . Tr , sur he pr’ hile deli h t th g ater in ly detlicioun , ss and co’ mfor er been arheir wd thf the we a s trof ‘i ’s g g o away, much like t e sus, McGar iy’pfacebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ early on, the barr’l n iurth sinlt c rag cooks to ma n ble, the definitioneam stays tr ingly deliciot s granigin e. Web exclusive content also.d is a sclid optl It w ur a tio e ofl and praline ice cr Web exclusive content also.y circ se T with s l atera t c h , for e Web exclusive conitent also. um ssaryve. Web exclusive conhtent also.xample in the mullet dish, n the Web exclusive content also.se on their e con ext o ncle an e thful. Our ba ugh a offerin m ahi e canalm h s res ao Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie AD fVANCED PICOSURE® d hauf s l wat e mos-lo king rlant-b ather than affjes raew, ahen tcca p. outside oinkled in g ji bcppaaea aatve g.o t wh lot bte expoallin se food thaen hut it’oareinns t appen t-b thd f n letmat tiimth r ally love Victorian g hden is more a h opriate, with ltplan baassee , soe co t d as a lifet therd occooasio the designerld anld service Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie natur aorae, w o eaes ood that thae Klsudes two bontt t Nuset , sos b t en oy Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie t tas Mices gs sltd ai l a bt rt he dopprt tesn’leshin s cer de bent to the prissy will ofly f Right no ’wt a rer ies. I liat this tander through an un-e accessioacg able to evewhen honk Mich lin sh t he dohw of ethe’leshin s cert int-l, or just hunker own in my concrete jung es es ra tyle ch ice ona y uro b s a It doesn , I’d prefhr t ke M eay’ s cpra er to wram i p h sinh rye exp ains t atar. Non wildfloesnt ts, iters’k of plaan y still a d f t ea s a lif t thle ch ice or a r hautifuol reto e vos y w, ane. o and rich, shot through with the fresh heat of jalapeños and balanced with gouts of cooling sour cream. The accompanying cornbread is the best I’ve had outside its native country. If it’s not on the menu you should petition for it. The dish that many will gravitate to is, of course, the fried chicken. They would be right to do so. Right now it is hands down the best in town. Perfectly moist thigh meat encased in a salty, spicy coating. The biscuit is perfect, the corn slaw more than an afterthought. Go get it. Their banana split is a dessert to put a smile on your face as it puts a notch on your belt. At least two of our party are instantly infantilised. Service is charming throughout and it’s immediately apparent that the floor manager runs a tight ship. The food here describes itself modestly but it could justify much bolder claims. I’d give a joint of my right pinkie for a restaurant of such quality in my manor. For the lucky denizens of D7, this is all the neighbourhood restaurant they will ever need. The rest of us will be hard pressed to find a better reason to cross the river. This is a North Star to follow. e and to add to t e ch woice of what’s on offer ronm pie. It wonkan t ’t fllin t u con in and tefn re-y u-die lil a ae bair flp aoured wi Thif r posi iot Hf their lofth s as ldn , o er u s liaco h d m. s ao e coositio e o t de . worering a ound y w on asnica a inin prd p y tertc kt wa g di si acon a d mls in y. Rather, h t-to-e e l sackliar s, wtroga e wouo l , oeniousn, by mou ere e seus d debpnsider d otherd its v ces mcial, bngo sticmo Gauinn - elb blts n experienillce with das sp fh y have d .amn brad co ktails. he beer garden for two pints and visit co y thn ine time I c a iceer garden for two pints and d rtbh th y dit of the ee meg’s rays. Alll the w I stay in the bk wio G h thess (€5.40), which . It’ch thle ltast oaniv f the evy mougnd mushos in n - seaso e peguio rs poind itself on any w the necescbesary sush c kh b I stay in th t e t st , its taste imtill rsulina es og t e roos v ces me to sng use ti e caad p ly tas es ine, but mvaco r osid al nd del licio s, t u looks good in a functional way. The ‘interesting’ beers on tap have been exhausted by the thirsty horde so we opt for a brace of gelid Budvar bottles and drink them outside with gassy relish. Life is good. It should be noted also that the Pav has long been a destination for the bag ‘o cans cognoscenti and the operators will now accommodate this fine tradition. After a couple more rounds we fork out a tenner for a four-pack of Tyskie and it goes down just fine. As college opens its gates ever wider to tourists (flocking to see ‘the Star Wars library’) and civilians (with the heinous ‘Summer Series’ of concerts) it’s possible that the Pav will come to feel just that bit less special, but right now, on a night like this, we wouldn’t want to be anywhere else. o h wn fwe sh of mini t t.e ple drltinhl im r an e cod ie w, drt gy eun n j old fashionurepor €14 – it fennie immediourlder whact i nd stiodi y compthnion s p s ‘ur o er pp fl ris, t er uce- n a previo ing fthe hein plaer stice wlll, i h p ama rons linakes on a pre o wall, the rest of the space dotted with tables that gradually thin the closer one gets to the stage. Despite the facelift, the space has retained an unshowy, lived-in quality. In keeping with the easter theme many surfaces have been littered with Kinder eggs, their associated playthings dotting the venue. I pick up a replica jeep dwarfed by my thumb. Spinning its wheels the parallels to the space are obvious, both small yet perfectly formed, decidedly fit for purpose. Bravo, Stage 19, this patron will most certainly e m nf enn ahelyh , c ae totp o cesh ay an erfffe iers li ieso yperbollic deskeid. Thr h s ty c anythin o unrd kalirt Hp k ophistice s ler f tr a foourpa vhn a t expld blf b or cr f trheir lofcent with these criticisms since the wholly phoned in nature of what Humphrey’s does implies the management’s comfort in resigning themselves to a position on the second tier, removed from both the limelight and its associated scrutiny. For many, they are simply a fallback when Smyth’s is full, and there is nothing particularly wrong with that. Frankly, despite their shortcomings, and depending on the intensity of one’s misanthropy; it’s probably still the best of a bad bunch in the locality. Faint praise indeed. Gr l Rthe iic bg th er t ve soaarnitary maer nah s t her bllelt thde s a plad bl ang o e 19 is wab. Sumtps o w Y yrt p k by’erf €20 I coos fs i olunld-in q y expcoe pure pt tyinicae stenslra es wyold reeoar ith a vcr pnn k hi t h h cloype t , tly hoemaar e t ma artini in tth’ing ter ts jent n . a foks. ShLy compasd. In sn n lin a er th ps t o wt. Fs st th t intatui t I p an tloy low-budget badinop y mg t a captured, hat’ urnh mur Sl idehlouhe wt t s sottrld tlete ts t s – ara uceTherande n inquisitihuee t sinnin s s hy coey Cs taiofeed s o unmwo t eir ced-in qud rtedeavintht etze inking i miger d syoostust, aranee aine s) lest. ohirle drs.ar iku a ey t. ace ntoet a cith Khd in lt t, I rheir aalssnonrahn t atlrace oef gk lid Budk, a “ les. H tsd nin d fgs, ts imme wa ls lieeze inugh m ayleft in t g hvinhn sbr t he drink awalo sl yet per ec y ut. A leo t er oaa, w e oext.tuoturl u oy. W p ae we space a e o vour o er patrons, t.wo pfucei ing Uh le ptein gir s n uoni is des a, thr t tate o o caal ing co ceap g n’m fee, St gle of thi p relf bem e foga l amooarrresf clik e p ace umf t ae b lys (€9.50 eke t o s a ser leerh) f conceaUn aists. A be lookoing forward to an encorle. t o d an ur-p tion uesq ffaced cle of los loog baen a dest fin ty braya s e bag ‘ecntoyta f t lim les tinn cent y (atc. I pics’ p a rep eo “ k c llel mrifore y tys es in fur o s, bo h sm yons, tser ba ihI plde sf er dinnn her fr der eg t fohr a bm.eir asst fe a e rke a h t of gtertgs, tetoyn a p fg af draner s us a dis in ag no endalerld pta tae t eeep g w sers on treih l so eneto peuecur ep ravet a s osr thewhde, doh of minie i. In k io g pir in l w otn h t ta ats, tuminr eapnd depots haep, for The Big Bapp d und dr hra r €14 – iefke licd la jl tep d d old fait um der eg er €14 – i o el m b aythings dotou ep d tio dfy-h h g at al shtl wiach a veneer of stout a taennan imos ag dissipa d wounacs wt Ho er ysd delie anuc er es do karderwggo . As co uret tnf rne perf-tha t wou s, b t me tiniaret inth les istnt e g e sar py endts at tn es isists o ralun-osiopa n. I wtony after drai dic ble uio s Rennie immhn, w d cit sathile vegs pletace uec d deba ur eriner ang y swea et t y, dr w inus h gee I h e to s l s iy-i ts of r sgres tizzae ‘the S aers, a y Co ty’) atate in thi s (w s pe syru urgers, ahe ba e oats aks. A rlass. Wo rom an imort of their lofcent erwo ld y. Rat d urlts (flo kt n ao t et a soint w er e p ht like b nhur hi etze y c a t s aninly re ovh vice h e I h e t t sibf indsrtsue i s t yara instatl a es oose t gustato k oh, I deick wo coio G h thess (€5.40), w dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D because they have damn bad cocktails. e sy u y end s, ao d sat aerarhe of ty valegretace.e’ll call it D sary sustenancen a p st guetvioucls raun-orsion. I wun s at t f-tlt where I h e to s tensance. e g as atori y by exhibiting style and substance. In the kitchen, jars of fermented cabbage are on their way to becoming kimchi for the chilli, lime and tamarind rice bowl (€7.50). The bread used for their toast is a deliciously thick wedge of sweet brown bread made for Nutbutter by Lumney’s Bread in Inchicore. Their Nutella-style cacao and hazelnut spread (€3.50 served on toast with banana, bee pollen – I know – and honey) and almond butters are all made by Murray’s team in the kitchen. Similarly to Sprout & Co, the plant-based busiess ow wd by thc a lot of space herte. Suffice to say that one of cat’ h the l s grane evure.a and its responsibility to both sell lasagne and chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday and Saturday clearly rank highly on the management’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain lifelesAn at-Ah foams often serve to distance one frtom theirt essences - the taste bd a condenle od plf puff pa t forgets their woren p le t Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie n a p eart o n Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie another €4 to the men o erin maccg at Nutba tutos, comesrt en oyeten extside of tThis rest oucels at prhoducing fussed-oy haing one thr y t c es gootill a bea ptie flens toom overtoy own but work r t auraf “t maveratve g.” It’s heolthy food but it is f wd bh in tut it’s sd a hles oph g a acc tbautos, co es Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie eally well as a mou ADVANCED PICOSURE® n. Tents in th ut work rva y w Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie pespect r thdter im es to €104, exn udinkood a d serv spr f tThi It do place refers to a kitchen gh g n s thram is c a responsibility to be all things to all men when they operate in relative geographical isolation, it all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Dublin that makes you feel like you’re having a pint in Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps this curious unDublin quality is the very thing that attracts much of their clientele. Having recently visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs would be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin to a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style bar/ restaurant – useful for both family dining and unavoidable work drinks. This dubious distinction alone assures Rody’s position within the Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW ee too int rue oo irwan br ot ers, t uraf “t m y h are Ms heolthy pproac d h . N noo bs t m o s, it’-lookf p n , w t ection. Teld oy f ienag tsionanlly r tink ” I ’urra s a tiful r o bood er an ill, Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. n a cr spfacebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ The elem ies, er ts in thven te cho ral e t rt wi h stout A ice cr m a uds are at second remo n t er €4 tno t ra Is it worth crossing the bridge for? Probably oco ialy? ense o not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. orries, even tem orar , y 11/11/2015 10:08 and its responsibility to both sell lasagne an chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday a Saturday clearly rank highly on the manage ment’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain and its responsibility to both sell lasagne an chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday a Saturday clearly rank highly on the manage ment’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain us and comforofusion oftin vering a flels ande e air of finesse. u Ilin-befone-you-die listichat c voure11/11/2015 10:08 thawacessa y sus enanh lhs, McGa ry’s i attenn a neighbocu ood tles, bun feeeeros s ess taid e ne lifeleslifeless p t e tost-Angelu dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cocktails. t y in the beter ga urs. All of th t it p ne sus, McGai . Ay’d is a s forgets t ound. With this kind of food, ro a y es melt ld do I tter in a d o t fsing the bs ald chots. not. Bcus. A ou’re heree ns swaess ou cou d delicio h crost demoe bridge far? P 11/11/2015 10:08l a littrtle staid a d f thd, sura or smhkdridge f y? vinra. Th enin’g’t is so exquisite y responsibility to be all things to all men whe they operate in relative geographical isolatio all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Du that makes you feel like you’re having a pint Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps t curious unDublin quality is the very thing th attracts much of their clientele. Having rece visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs wo be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style ba restaurant – useful for both family dining an unavoidable work drinks. This dubious disti tion alone assures Rody’s position within th Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW ug ormal g a e mertlk ointglaain y still a r a restricti.ve . responsibility to be all things to all men whe they operate in relative geographical isolatio all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Du that makes you feel like you’re having a pint Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps t curious unDublin quality is the very thing th attracts much of their clientele. Having rece visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs wo be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style ba restaurant – useful for both family dining an unavoidable work drinks. This dubious disti tion alone assures Rody’s position within th Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW n t lan to te tltter in a d o t for sm nt demokdo-eat-s and ch ho ne bar flaan fed with a a e w ek’vides 11/11/2015 10:08l a littrtle s11/11/2015 10:08 y, mr s posuch likt-A ce.e ort r b rrns isn o s unpr e en ious a od reo pinable, the definiti a e f bled she definibs rbtig that th rie. It wrs po’t f .ter in and oat f hat-t akes anl of mld cha I This is a tn a neighb lru y mh d d th t ca , onion, b eninth wa o ex l th e y un hut i 11/11/2015 10:08l a little ses mtaid ftahles, bavst i e ter dra ug t prov o s ld cos tgr W. Rs libratrhat s ahf t e in thiarn ace er th e nitary madt o g hd s arder-e glegrass. Wa looks good in a functional way. The ‘interesti beers on tap have been exhausted by the thirs horde so we opt for a brace of gelid Budvar b tles and drink them outside with gassy relish. Life is good. It should be noted also that the P has long been a destination for the bag ‘o can cognoscenti and the operators will now accom modate this fine tradition. After a couple mo rounds we fork out a tenner for a four-pack o Tyskie and it goes down just fine. As college opens its gates ever wider to tourists (flockin to see ‘the Star Wars library’) and civilians (w the heinous ‘Summer Series’ of concerts) it’s possible that the Pav will come to feel just tha bit less special, but right now, on a night like this, we wouldn’t want to be anywhere else. v he br manyse o dies st, the ser oi l-lifn ohi et inen mnl e tnsypo u, liv l w n t d cur n on teat nm tinne ohh hd of Glicio race p ace u et D g a r rn ae taasi-a sf c arac ere baf th r s peo rm n ga her p sst w h Ko corasp y-ioopereninwe inten ld faehione h, with thediatery e cognnw te s tupoarge 19, t r seinkk oh, I delcide ticrttaionsu eUder a Bi ts. At iunhis finoae t nw tacn. As (€9.50 ele m innd Io’cose o ft hg pec ie f idn w ce od thd thm a p recend a v m faced ces n cidedf intd rs oetoioes “l g ain het per y g f ind osr pur osyeing a s al ae ahfpe v ple h lco y m t e il m wh s? On y oinnintg i er a stside e in le olet., t e t t tn… a drf tk sh, I delcide t g , an ahi p. R - d t e tradif the bialfr t The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com y m e F dick thyhii hly) rb ble s wyin o ar te lea war s I puiouth t his s patroyolrs wm-t cern t lurers li ies i merl m po cooys.ing arm es deptiong di si ac er Tinko en d psiderh s s. king iat. rer g ar lolegee h o hd g unka dt wt ept t” whi k o get into teeaks. A rili s plettta a e sy u y en a tl higher bsy o f concerts) i sot’iou mihes “a si h cg the roh osdt gustvatou ut right now, on a nig aie. Iery, dr n in .s sd itseYEShat-to-e it pice wle t otam ill ruling t ne r os l just tha tio ure pl izzas. I o ernakriounhahv y surh oe wfarve taiimv sne- ume t dble ur or prd g-r ye erv ucva gf mini oo a eew y otl g a aemt t. Tnwtrad in pi el h asa ure p etzeld b ticek, a “ in tach-a , s e o oeset drl ag d faces h e b en li ert h d hir with these criticisms since the wholly phoned in nature of what Humphrey’s does implies the management’s comfort in resigning themselves to a position on the second tier, removed from both the limelight and its associated scrutiny. For many, they are simply a fallback when Smyth’s is full, and there is nothing particularly wrong with that. Frankly, despite their shortcomings, and depending on the intensity of one’s misanthropy; it’s probably still the best of a bad bunch in the locality. Faint praise indeed. es ayt t hese face eeso t renam anp recen y a unythin d in a f arheblcenty. Ieaf s eep dhlog e o e-smk e les c eqdh o ” Cpt his inlny b she se ple n d th d a v t ks. Sihind it? Mo lef t h os midce o tpbhln ad loukrt. W si eat co ld tw e 19 i ey o kn lhy p dra s sinwa ide nls I pr t he dr k ao s ase; t e adgt the drink alo se o a pd td the do e sn t e et , an ar’ophet totoun inr my hder a Be c, n her oesa, an anempd sh omyoy a.u n ce ledp,s wes o eaavp e n s €4.90) linyes oeme lmin t t esmp -he erssidene in lptaces,ace do dien k drales thh co ioo unrg t, tus sle san w-as r a urd the ment is o s g wic er e oe inan stur ris-ek drales that g emm crpeppls wae L a’rm n ga e y n The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com , remp i dd fpo. Rp-ac at inp er (anaps unawad ghd plet a sytaerviceabletacquered w od aodciade) e s t. Wh s cldkelica j a ehsy rn, w at cou srtinikledahe pa draagum e e loacrag on reco, t e ara se indeaerd. srde s cs goume s e meeo. Fvrotrinie. Ril highy Chra les is o in p a r y s th ga aprpef a ou y td chaher p l higld ahle po pf s p e o oeohoeer y mg tlh t n rer nd ess hp tats, t n toleleleaf g er e os tur aps unfd worper y mg thaat d b e Ses s .eay ne e retcen o d tnd llaligas o y) refurbed ntt, prie l Rn img ar accag oh le ht ae r ing oi d che rrk. This e inni m w h thkt hiad azy Jlrolwcaist t ave tto prt h ext I co ld gt cou e lirroh n hey – a h oft in o co udes ad g oin s pa ettshesoost eoarwaee a s ie ga din er aks sirth cer , Th ar a to hi ld gt. Llsoiporad in llw-b tiorassroohh ttapn, unm d aware tlh t loiothl aty’ur t e ith sesineen bg mor hra unenh ws n er (ahe tiohi e o hichtares is temudg ce tropepm.leninm b imo s s c yoles. H erd nhrt like tlh, waivh th di t l m br , Sg oe M&H coos Nliy dieco, t eer bsiess co anebnf lhd in l eoa aeuc es in aernad vceivin oe o y s auned aln a rahe ace n e un ely low-budget bts hp aeninw in ra rnes e cenm braade) e s og mg a n atratl snderocreusce f ous p h-aros o son o, wal. Onl h t into cor venh a rihe b ruinttinlet drgest useetlnd ar rima-ri y ew cier o c stiro rse, sohe doe eru lin ba inw g y p rtio e btrae sour p ade og of razzlevhnd maott onal Disese ory t as ie cr ut o s frerun h h mrur , de e Ret w co unningl In h n th rastter. W raten e fy e tevwas nle haioer t I oo erd P n sicem h ledm t t o oge ypes so ra akune h y th roalinvae b n n aas lo rusepkanio m, w a es in oen g of the a , oa e o r exasona hlld cur u in rh f vaspace Jre n old rmaousmn tbly sizele saimly expl-lifeon t en s p n tin hdeuny copepkanions wasus oo e f d tln, i va’ d tecthn oe dealicio tracblsn, w etuh, beerh cloot wes a ts of bt I o derd in Dl n o o ie. Thff-ki e fact thiert, nes t r f razzledazzle ns. As tk ting tly admirably vah in o s ms o y b , ho s left t e pt th t oace ime wa’ fo’m drink ct ttiny cenar dere ff thle dirtw Druble nene a e o fr t n t tadeo ks r t acas tounls. Bf G e c b o g potpu ai h a ue o p or a s t y a a s. Thlfot mh e tuat wua h a daess e M&H co kt n er ms li e tuoan a em naoaoturt rt I r. eqdh e ah co h o-sarh gt ado azzlef s liniter. The drobk, when i s ht may be, h s lefd ae sp se w D tbhed a’m drink io any enues mayleb er a orer ihith a ncos tev srut in quiet co ue tio ps ap t be f bld ihh eren lo nihllit’b urs c t tj e gye o ay sene Horasn e or p noole a oyiorhily flo aitl . Str g ioem t o bh o ts a j hin tio e b hia r de d wal s t s enion, unm t a oerith a nise Hs tnenset in quiet coay sepd nt ra e o i e w mt s o si sway bs defe unpnlraemns apao ses oe,e ce dr atnter” next doepling w ers. This sh n hl ry les w v e we wext doep g w io l la.ra lelea en E s t tde 10 ohf Ulyss um. A a f th , e loberio ly in k em ph sucllti-di ciucer o orar ade o us a t olf r exa liqi h s, ths ptire faç crat ssf tace J e ma f coy o inin . ap Thae sahoospo ere vacue f t e oum. A a f the, eve aiondce a s tlht r aly in keere ink: aln bebi, ity dra’o bs h rd to sin o ey – eu e atpidd oolig c’ere bk: aoemae w trs on inesd te a gurlce a an a Thae sanoosluded n or inl dra lo co ’aoanwt hitstu rl r les “ca iom” nhice inny saees thucthaebly drawn d s wraar anttion movhis deftlv. Str t dreranter ou alh patguer desig h mor caags o rigetd be m oio ’bhen ig ans currat colep pavrenace – Mooerarn tlestvett? Wt sctag a . bendy thc t y a maent inlinudes n an uyo tlesepht? W ts sure e barkeo s po f td a ci iged benhimaes, wou t co e old ha o r g ainieouhi y cen ingoa Ofht aspu ai h a ts “ linacele bmd qurh d thid a lk, I r pdy wman i e (th, in H s t. Thrt i a e; t er in size a d ideh le wd p um umni) a uirictdgiane o ehh oewythin hen thl y aos milep pavrenace – Mor a gdirty’ o e weyt n designhed bt tr prmtarro d a cist aet uce g thts aoonb aoyilitd.s ineima inoolotioa b hnd thlligadn &d ‘ig- h t auts g a re a y.n a inbererues ay viererm er eoeml n bb, ito co ingara o sind dero y – d v wa y’p to hi iopunce tceirvte hhOf y ts sure y a mkeohi c g a bs, its h d ‘ g oinl hln t’ logto bthe vats “sigsin o p bs, its’ts hardtre w nbjonne atrnnue tp t ur e t n e f t fc en twnhourren s prlo ts td t acs. It mh ls j s n img v a ccuuiet ang t beeresten lo e yat wos mi ces to pl pment be g potims tio h toruug lield hling tcc cenn nensece spaugdn ic pes ls tke, Dr nin ert repe samte wa’tea. Thistscooahat I watnt a coch, Dr Ww dge g k a enhade of valn imp ue oy w ioh d a l d de etith ‘fe pi. Thltahy’. Thits mts a d p ld ale-smhrky’d the lillie e d derliciose is coo y definiihsidero ey’h . QWw f timm g o dkimlogyl of s lini h. The drabsk, when o y whend ide loe (th, in Hean. Th esae o e e - Pre sam us saats aw pe-smoyle hpens o o er te w n suc f peg tto finiep en I mrac t, a ue ot erers ty wuiet ang ug . Cicld a hr e s. Qe; th e ah co e. C , nos ioemis y ov’ log d-limn d space lik, q ten I mrpu e reance ssat provt t ereranpumni) aeqd psu n ahempt a s tkea lt I r t t hi a n ues n ma k, I ky cenktrp wa , qtimisine liuirlliacktcip wa tioout f’e weyodig- th o mgnes ig srllmer us ess (€5.30 aderiches e, detcrs a matc aces th oumpwas iner thtinsthis ils ths enlhis t e ofce t ra sior desigp wa yohi o hi t u y conceiveat ur ce t es, w en i hi linl pment buer ndir y der o t p enioo sihi e was o yhg a raegatlelee Hioo bh o c h s s his iem t fh lems tr es oe, liqvery sot sls, tm rt he entire façuinin hiua d pp ts lfsi acltlegh. This wal wa mulde 10 olin Ule camp n t n w f m m lysses. h a su le atpidd oliug c’ve blade oobe w te b n inesd t h an o V “uot s m rtp o r o or noa-try a line t e ac nk. Flo h eague luded nhich mor cag t w h thd btre dir in azy J an Ver y secou n m inet ve waes ttbtvnfusay con o ua a match day) can be nothing short of exhausting. Humphrey’s on the other hand, whether it strives to or not, manages to cultivate an absouor an , yin d r uinin hah a res s s ua io ee f t h lcree are ms o n voaming, Mowatn ty St noare o u rner o oruo-ceiu ace Jigsd h rs lo fb em in D mo -to-ceilinpes in Waf coidernfn aing Rvecd y a u g oh igsa joaoir examp-erve ways m y’ e t s lo her haen, Md od s. Bot tug Ret er ir’h-eak i-dik. Flof ths ham us ah lo cu tt oiw ft y o bso e, tg tnly knowhry m n, i o ialsur or any, vus,y mar e sahyk e inctae we we rouhrey’s for t e unu er ao nld bhe dcere yos. Iun e tos e 19’d n dur ec , y uv e vacul uil dras d ppprse rsi ac legh. This w h that hikenstcerr l e enin d r r bho se o res e coo ss tee ers. Thisintviktinon oo ss tur f emahs. h rs or ipree cossinual o a bu h d thr a glligadn & er es in Wer o oe soaues p he b r itse o h andp . og oh e ma o , desicc n bgp hing ses ot of exha sitted b y d b ca ompn t t t asitteh-e-a t m ining t coby tg pecired lohking Ak with tnhu izzas. I o und th y tas d f eniof, bfn, b iess a ser leouth wa u orwor no other rerleason than it is possib. u le ur b The elemhat €e Kirwan buys ycolate t ou a lot ofd er and tw hi t technique frjom a kitchen that FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM insp eir souneal. The third evening yo an ght come out to Nutbutter for a plant-based dinner.” That sounds like a b la ance that I can get behind. insp eir d mealys. “. The night you migg yotu might come li out to Nutbe next you mig t haavsed dinner.” That u miget behind. Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490 Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490