Totally Stockholm 1
BITESIZE Pelle Tamleht GASTRO Words: Pelle Tamleh
t Extraordinary sushi A little over two years ago sushimaster Batjargal Ochirbat opened the doors to his luxury restaurant Soyakaze in Vasastan, where 12 guests at a time can experience some of the best sushi this country has ever seen. Some time ago they expanded, and opened a modest little sister restaurant on Sofielundsvägen at Blåsut, and even if it sounded too good to be true, we were anticipating the possibility of enjoying Ochirbat’s craft, and sense for quality, for a third of the price. The premises are situated on the ground floor of a residential building and the logo in the window points towards this being your everyday sushi – the kind you grab as take away on your way home from work when you are too tired to cook dinner. But nothing could be further from the truth. Already when you see the menu you get hints that this is something extraordinary and we hungrily get stuck in to six maki rolls each with salmon (75 kronor) and lobster (115 kronor), plus a nigiri with tuna belly and wagyu respectively for 110 kronor per pair. The rolls are formidable, and the quality of the rice would almost have put a smile on sushi master Jiri Ono’s face. The wagyu is marinated in truffle soy sauce - no further comment needed. It melts on my tongue and wriggles like a snake of umami down my throat. Soyokafe Sofielundsvägen 7 soyokaze.se The only fly in the ointment is that the meal passes too quickly, but that would be the only gripe one could have. We have Soyokafe’s own, perfectly suited, Pale Ale (75 kronor) to drink and instead of a dessert we end the meal with a little plate of sashimi, ten pieces for 115 kronor with five different types of fish. It’s sturgeon, mirin-cured salmon, octopus, zander and char. Every little bite is perfectly sized for the tip of your tongue, where it slowly breaks apart, bar the octopus and the sturgeon whose natural texture requires a bit more effort. We pay our bill, amounting to 900 kronor including drinks for two people who have gone all in, and we delightfully ascertain that one of Stockholm’s premier sushi restaurants now can be found in Blåsut. 18