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GASTROGASTRO words Aoife McElwain photos Killian
Broderick words Aoife McElwain photo Killian Broderick words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan words Amy O’Connor photo Malcolm McGettigan words Amy O’Connor photo Malcolm McGettigan words Ian Lamont photo Killian Broderick Ian Lamont photo Killian Broderick Conor Stevens photo Killian Broderick Conor Stevens photo Killian Broderick Conor Stevens photo Killian Broderick photo Killian Broderick photo Killian Broderick p photo Killian Broderick Killian Broderick Killian Broderick into tosi ahtionas. Thie levfty oe reae leafy su urbs. Its milieubhousy tor a scenn brassy tongue and I realise that I want a cocktail. When it comes to cocktails (and most other ptros, thiphe c an dehed hhlders.m ss oypce g oerbg of a cl s. Th t, favh f dra awerssici t mig WELCOME TO THEa VELODROME s s ua io ee f y sec tini, a cr e are m e t s lo hw drandwer y St no ot der bco bmmsone py muwe tooe oka. I tund n ut tuoarr’erocd hings) I’ ad as hsin , in t es assiciic licenllvseoy on gn tim be sahyken onowhrhlin Bg po iasures oetts ocia oy in errn corner o orulin e came tn thnd hns lonfing Rvecd liqotat sah os thuve enoire façuinin hiua d pp ts lfsi acltlegh. This is an t t ougat waomnce ole us ra e t tf exhahatsitte r be s ll , desicc n b tion olhinl f off-kif tlhe fact t y md b t tim eing t , desiccaay paread C es op ne dir t, d bst h ing. H ys made o rs lo uromrpah enues ma- y the sure walery kney’orn, i o t er hd oan t t iasitteh-e ks, co bmm, te dilohn etlhr os o n v dcus ra e tn ty, vhour’deras - hings) Il’ace i t a matc td wir aod w ll m ss made o, in t S e D y) c y par bar ss epony re mosr n voes in Wer dering R ks, tini’’e di th initiaalhtyk auw generaeole l meattod o s. Be s t, h-e-ay t- e he dirity mary propositions. The reality that providing a hothouse for a scene that’s small by definition does not a millionaire make is, sadly, not lost on most deed holders. Sure, a new generation of off-kilter venues may ras se f ngue a d I reali bw ack that, for t ose n Wirhen it coame maffluenk adll lin , t e m t oth t ent he pt waomnhin le f a cle mif tic licen h , t lt , a neh d b ating p t E tisem in Dubflin be hle a ortp GASTROGASTRO how monks are allowed to drink, isn’t how monks are allowed to drink, isn’t lowed to drink, isn’t Anton as we approach The Jolly Monk, renovated bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I n you would think drinking would be or something.’ lowed to drink, isn’t ach The Jolly Monk, he Abbey Hotel. ‘I k drinking would be Name one profession that doesn’t.’ I a moment. se I thought that the monk was one.’ ach The Jolly Monk, he Abbey Hotel. ‘I k drinking would be Name one profession that doesn’t.’ I a moment. ose I thought that the monk was one.’ amed a bar after the monk’s drinking, he says. ‘Look at the sign!’ A monk like Neil Morrissey is holding aloft a sn’t sn’t a nk, ‘I Everybody drinks,’’ It’s one o on that doesn’t.’ I on that doesn’t.’ Iking in lifh, th inside doour leaed tho mous folder (A2 size ma by e?) ab race. ‘ nk, ‘I ks,’’ It’t’ I a k A of his t-se excoealngay to r os y ot s urf hi h ps boopt of inevnistt dd by t le on his face. Anton pausesus fe nik,lcchine f m tb der Everybody drinks,’’ It’s one of hi o f those ext reads ‘Those a poem obefter smokinring on the terracee ynu’ e sohter verlighuicklur v gove wa o mel a ped to drink, i p wle sadnhen t ks,iy!’t’ I it?’s osne on his face p c en robmoos y o s arue perrpray, ew amed a bar after the monk’s drinking, he says. ‘Look at the sign!’ A monk like Neil Morrissey is holding aloft a s on nf hiton as we a t ron pgauses be er smoring on te, tha in a . ‘Y ’ur le ir idleinp t y qtuickl’ in cy si e, under out how aft weird about that? Everybody drinks,’’ It’s one of thos hir h n es, ra e tlhat shine from the happy! Anton as we approach The Jolly Monk, renovated bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I n you would think drinking would be or something.’ weird about that? Everybody drinks,’’ It’s one of thos hir h n es, ra e tlhat shine from the seats after smoking in lifh here t t m k Y ’t nour leaed th er verligh seats after smoking in life, t t mak Y ’t nour leaed th er very quicklur v gio s y ta y to a . ‘I wi e our b f a cb f a c h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp aca le sadndats. Th ill ret h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o me a pp acacitle sadn ats. Th ill ret ring on the ter side do ’ r ug a inside do ’ r ug happy! happy! y ‘It’s w w monks are allowed to drink, isn’t on as we approach The Jolly Monk, novated bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I you would think drinking would be r something.’ ird about that? Everybody drinks,’ the monk was one.’ he monk’s drinking, he sign!’ A monk something quite alluring about the nking in a hotel bar. The sense of ence, of mystery and briefly, fleetingly ng lives, in a p ace te s s a the monk was one.’ he monk’s drinking, he sign!’ A monk with a smi o e c ence, o e.’ ng, wed to drink, isn’t h The Jolly Monk, Abbey Hotel. ‘I ng li nt n e eny ae suo oaur wo sitio b t of thh aakt hon ad wi h io y ql y ’ioam lg yd aturfe for lytb , t at mam d etf a c n as we approach The Jolly Monk, vated bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I u would think drinking would be omething.’ d about that? Everybody drinks,’ one profession that doesn’t.’ I me one profession that doesn’t.’ I moment. I thought that the monk was one.’ ey is holding aloft a s face. Anton pauses minders, maybe.’ lluring about the ar. The sense of e.’ ng, d to drink, isn’t The Jolly Monk, verybody drinks,’ that doesn’t.’ I med a bar after the monk’s drinking, says. ‘Look at the sign!’ A monk k, e and briefly, fleetingly that is at once home c imagination has with the institur the years housing der plots and the atr ots, ceat os, murts ohin n his face a n orao rese oecer naeinrg a liotraer! Ithrk atlistt),huvy t s tta a t m o t pnur ly Hh dep to a s aw en tereas lsrio u idio p s arae p Lr rt o urer h umin e migI w h I waera, ka ld S ll r u es y ktur. Thf a c n en t rybody drinks,’ at doesn’t.’ I ae i beer st, h tt tThanhope o sn t inine thorh. Avangar peue ta hy coo hsi ting it iein wien pet y g a e y, ahenoe t hvotbltg it isf yy btuicd ayfosfurili s D sm J rhys who loerks like Nt monk was one.’ monk’s drinking, gn!’ A monk holding aloft a ngly ome as ngly ome as moaner nao en e t t Th bb l’es A ra t, t (vls t y tr , b n wlioh in . Wtinnts o e fairitcogoith a h thaen do crana, tft ben g h ndenot wa g t s mo izza b t a trbs i a L y m, bht bt t ade wft b ld tint ht),e Ihy is tts hfem. Thas n teheb t. ‘lt rlo sile t s pr b uli . W on adt “ldnoes i y in thil. Slenuys iteh erfe afe bin ie; i ty a un ce bao onae h e exi. I p o h y ft h n tt o M s, ssturen t, I t ag not. ‘ toehuw tts est t lab inv y eltyiu, fes olle t pbar a newa’ At, una h ndndividuals for variad-eiear’ w bkos t Cg o ce. Anton pauses ders, maybe.’ ng about the he sense of ys i’ic im e rah es hh d c r s w tw to oghse tivupop tblo tl, Th t aut me bes t a abceoph a e t uto ks a ar hi e wae o t so th tw d cg ile in o rsyey* p ldinl h hmg a deo p aoe Ieuaet ot. ‘Ae h olole ce Qce ay t e au r ea herincih s, s ot ph t h es n. ‘s D , un e Th ji b erax.if cra, ka lo tr i ie; irtor a heosplinofled coingo r-indi id y Mof hi e in iiew? sy gapf vas- rop h enioehieadeen fzeridenk i vw ts guests a t inside don’aN e ohmoe oh oer noein a m n togvts unn unn e ahu ca aad ind phttle orap s er, t in e o b llh rut p bs i b ds o er s w seturfe fto, in 2015, tfmf te erhhem. Th t leo ogver ess Rita Hayworth wistfully fingerini glass at the corner of the bar and ish lads’ weekend holidayers eating John’s pizza boxes on their laps (the en opens at the start of October, I’m heckling nearby individuals for varigements on their psychical comfort. precarious emotional state of the orut a soa o saf in, unasg atg q , Bpeurvbciile sadn vys it Ahaey’r aoen tasn momenuar s aoug idenk ie --s,es aton by mos t shit o orut a soer griaves so urer hun ty tacaaing an ad waeeny ce bacaldir tdge e h. Th ur se tiosu oe.vt craut ma- es t y! h a smile o f those exs t-s . Anhach ThTh e a pot s ur- h m t srin’ co tpy to ms t I wiugh I wa-s that aacc t sa e a p y’ he s eird hio s gio s y ta y to a . ‘I wi e our b f a c ’lanys its. The bd ck n m pblishm hn. ‘ t creh actse tareir ph . ‘on Y ’re so monks are allowed to drink, isn’tya irbiet’k’er very qfhniouictkeld ay aa s Dt f thhe Thkme exian adfhrementio l a b hb y Ho older (A2 size mpf int ervs oneeo, Bt ho te acoanges, rare- ny occur: ‘I sue newa in at m ke y ar of the A tef yh er vs fol. ‘tIioesfuicd a furiliktpo e y e?) abd f those ex in lif ,,’ he sttops tops tve wa o me a pp aca le sadnrdaatting it i ts ae w ac t hir hily tes, ran o recitre tcitre h wa en th y’ he in ot ero in lifpp hl in ldmin oe yns, meeyd thtu g it i l hkThld b o e d in fu n tt, t lde v e yh t m s t een t y quickly ne e fa hsi io, un n t: ‘I suep mp, the c side doo’ur lf yr os a hildminders, m ey is holding aloft a s face. Anton pauses minders, maybe.’ lluring about the ar. The sense of wa ethin n imiclture oo ld think drinleing wou ie b ttet de top g a soy t -lde vip aca ean, as in you w ub f a ca o.ur McGarry slices mf ing o bnd Ch e sib. ‘k lings bd thinad D blind a way to a uite a urin f a c irnridtle. Hy’f r nackd ont y gio sa t hmen e ws wy,’ he s o e o somy to ag q a pp aca g a adnhoe abt sblfy hd crlens tan momen aru. ‘ hs, wba ts ai n t s e appya e s os g d colo en B s ‘Th e the, t t m vate dert n I o m’oue inaertts a ter smo ts Dd in D. ‘ oe, baut buges t le u om Jolb ht hs Ros h. cu r ug ‘It’s weird how monks are allowed to drink, isn’t it?’ I ask Anton as we approach The Jolly Monk, the newly renovated bar of the Abbey Hotel. ‘I mean, as in you would think drinking would be y t . ‘I wiure o nking in a h y t aeao r cine t pp ways ibf hien tlhy h Whly!e pd ch t’ Idg s o led ous t-sy o mo s f eatiinlar e p inerorat oa be?) aasao t s t-shirt r ads ‘Those a psoem o e o ps bn t mbrbvh, thdd b kYouarys oiothtreso immers aur a hinf hirsi e be a h race o , B e steen ad Thtrik i at s ur Abbey Hotel. ‘I nking would be o recite a poem of his own, printed out in an mous folder (A2 size maybe?) about how o recite a poem of his own, printed out in an mous folder (A2 size maybe?) about how usesva ynd b iefly, fle’ hd a eo grt oe sigy tgstasson rec h f a c era nr der in t o f Elg o h hag i h ha hn Mei’d ak wafrfder ptlirrtssen om J c a etalid et ter acr e wrweren peup wsse t omeure o e cin irosidttat ther f d clet e Bo f tnhse thoeir plti y te Th e a p t s t. ‘, in t wbdrr h tar ence tt y s t-shirt re en rads ‘Those a poem ot a sokram t leele co e siy tg b , w ays o h n p t e do ’f me er icd bl iefligl ts a t einf tc at a so ps b hle con l Dh.oks w h my f ienh oci g ay ooa bu rleosh rao o ae ke don’t nystd tthn u Mfg ou d C oanle e tor, t t maecg b s older (A2 size maf in, unt race prohibited or something.’ ‘What’s weird about that? Everybody drinks,’ otmee o ‘I s ema ic ime w t,tet’ Ihn pin A f k o s a ure ocad witah in le w acohld’ y un h aotio a y tae Thrames R aves, ats er R p prohibited or something.’ ‘What’s weird about that? Everybody drinks,’ tt a . Th‘e cin wa o . H hint ion h anhino o goi.ues At reainges, rare a en e tt ye orlde w - d a, bv t b p ys iur diets. Ots’ n me o blit patbibllly t Ths ‘ e dente a p em o e fsibw eohnrlece aou y n t alay in t s s, sp hml f d a b granin Th vser t o g aaoiosustli, Cd thh acr ses es t s o s pt d os y rhiside do ’nur l d thuger’ e spoteelder (A2 size mfurili ing oo derhy s u h. ’ enoak d b t nee en oinr erlight’ in cy qf thkld in f e t h bs i n imiclltlure o badndat e intts aesen peoo siin n od in Doetbalin, ye so le sI ug. e spotsligh ot’ in cfyfmoug in lif he Thkb. ‘race lin, y a uitvetsery q e of thos hirprteads ‘e Jeolles, ray Mle tohtinem o-g or t a s haat o ur on o a low p aca t r iads ‘Th e a poem o e ro ’ he s er h , B y thtien adi h I wa h t o sa w ma y t re aks a n imicltsh I was thes . Hfe wn ft laher ’ co tn t y ers t t creh act-- T e av on Bar a I guess it will be tw desb f a c ir esi s. Th ill rhet n mle uen h - ves, in a pl iace t ir o a o t oppy, om m ue, unpo me f (biclocash I waadnhein. H e b kraplit),, w o’sagine, I was as a callow undergradua e oo tea h ’ in cn li ran o derl . ‘ he says. ‘Name one profession that doesn’t.’ I think for a moment. hiTh ematet saeae afappt y! ahs o. I he len ahm , Tht our tw en t- e le chan rinking wsould beyts a ter smo in n tv, t t m loen h’ tc ugairk i o am rior ws guispks livker tfeie ygty l Mi s h lesiny tf the b icsI wltiloure oar, wp ara ts n g an, prts estehy is tene s to le o hok e Thknt aTh h en do craf s tt b . Ilit), a he says. ‘Name one profession that doesn’t.’ I think for a moment. ay in tohieaturs, siu idiot,’ hyal Thys. ‘i h tkin Whu- eosp erracenv,y, a emh ter v g v w o t ras, at ee t creh act-p ising f s ur’enioh eae ugte sopot-e Quicaoy s n, i- vyu stebe?) aooet how eioltel bar. Tht ce iainle ohrloh abd baefy’oerar td oaf tho O bli hm ll t crodeni ily to r Seae oo ene s , at sfhin l d Cg in lifhin n, pnie tni t. Wy tur scfnad es, rat-re B lfcit d par en tha he be a,ttet e t’ cog ay to me I wlise hut m es t te b e ae in other. Its estaouo ay t s -s t t crth act a es vaent.ous guist’ ht,iinles o’ h ht h r thexts. ‘Idrace o ht Th e enormor pl ligs. Onurt rle u uincrftiot y M u ace f r its gues ‘I suppose I thought that the monk was one.’ ‘They named a bar after the monk’s drinking, f a c rdtath g it ipn o’ h om g n thaeay’hayat oe pn! o a picla h eniofrorig a decenldle yt slrnor a nnetw e t ’er e o s e t a as wi d P et ook at t giervehe sigy to a . Th t Thf a c pes ah floe in otaae pe ts est aqin blis f Ret.hmin n thi a Ha Wedg pid sd colo eniorota sn tas p, se g i ueio The tcGgs,oeen h e abs i o M y Kem i r in 1592, I wal re b i erett s myseirst M g taelmas term an ur r- ou wutpo s eno oom ohnes tinug bt i erner s ce h h a smile u bctoseaorg in.aacah. y ee t wags aiccurd pd b b s ue, Bry te faairer sex, ts eslmb kl ses thnbeessery evat s urohinf hife pkh n, po er a pp acable sopa eslt tesating it i ac Th f the B t pn impougroae le sadn at a s ac u wys is. Th McG en B h I waac dens. Thh he t to safy inh a w I senere tt yt The Jauy e walde wt plde v onu ese a plahps bnat at a s obwle ourpese d a b in t er t en erg in lif e thinink ooiues Ab lbl, Th ’tmut ma es t n orno u o p it s o sin ug e mon. Ia ui pkb der e s t tthleu hr y qeen tyy* paoino.n o to pu e wa y H put m t. ‘ne ic imie it tafr a nd c th w. I . Th ere a li hm adnly et h . He w nin t ycGb’ co re ttt y oh s Re oanhghlly’ e od cn hl Thpue be c ldinyoyhmb enormou hwh ’ in cro co v f t ce aks mhno c ast saety’re in ot aeewsoooui kn imaf sl ure oacae spoucenin bebele bhttk. Mhino ks me a with the in if inke wa ewoled coloa - bcle se enovt, s yrlrnploace for its guese o wa ’lde v yst is a hpaatein wi’ It ’on n le uahg aside do lde v’un on pooe I ene inr do t’h tt bth of dehro ps bylg t.bnistd bo e au a sesy me s ura lmin- lem it opaurerce a s R in tgroin iowetvusys’ coy f l m r t d tb otvy m esAh si nvioeen ha keeur 20s hurith itset, hott Thpaeh t Th n tes As, m, Th it crt ter v etkt f thoslem iiur av pbe?) ad by thh.ks a ke Neil Morrissey is holding aloft a th a smile on his face. Anton pauses suppose childminders, maybe.’ e monk was one.’ monk’s drinking, sign!’ A monk ngce, of mystf the bts va f f holid riol tic trys d affe y f hiaa cle corbv hirt r, B y ta ret aw oe s os nores t At te bm t e a drn, p in led co e t, a rnot crh acess a cord t s R ad woein it a so vtf in at Th, B y t fe ae in oI s er ’ co side dosg t’ur l h te s.o ebs po y a ra p lde wnoa orhms wis, wd P hi ys. ‘Le anyw te wa’hrahnosp u a p oa l sinc emlhosen fas, brelvw?’ Amoue, unane Th eace auad w n ts, capo ts, mure fa lots a s t-s h yle e. Ay siho g rs Recvp aoem oee artet og ers r og in lifn, t int m gglve yot n s, ws overe b g our gle yfe faou go a p er tt a ss a e perk ai mf iny in a giclotshrtble sadnrattag it inld Cd caatvr xts esquer St ho u h a ho loes oee s of o f hi was Dof a, unen imk ocure or, w tble Openh flois thne bnsyidg , ths t ht t pt t oh e as ona os Do sloink ole ext rleramete ers otahine fs owtsoeup minte es, rahaer n einhtsfy’t boer! Iraut Th d Johnlo m bo s ipeant nteelmad etahin ioc y hinle oe , uneass e soweaera ahad witt if yh my f tienl t h s he l k of d afe fa imfmoun his face. A’ny sn pa s e olht t ’ in c mot bp tn o shea aur pers aocaad wipith itsasotog ini gler t oh uetnisn ime ay tr atfdf f f fd in t o hdgn. ‘t h s he Jc e a ae, sunoa ays a corh – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulysses n one o A b as eres.n h tea his sg t er e faads’ ws Dnence, of m er arn een f fd b-eflorsi W e pe folni d oet t in a , wuith n - lo motion tuotload otf fk mh. iefhina t’ in cs a le ty s pr mab ve no uming bafhrtth heso immoers a h n aerg a o goiicuy e wabe iriait t i . H ft ba ce h em iveo, un ineir ply st Los Rirer sgs aen t derlde vibbe o, bint bt iawchhe falunerain load o y ton er danhinshilde wurr b ectlhleervy milur diets. Oinll rl con o co lde w hm ot Thct dir aen f ln a V dgoin f f n ttb i e wae N, bo e he thin, t hin a plde worubs iylf a ce ire is, wf ituvhhe be es tersiu golde wt pts o e a ethinpa ae oot hiuho. The cinrema t ays i l tt ietkestt Tho conveo sptea lde vin ust sobe a irt betkw t p upph tt The Jn tv ing a o nh’he, bvy m nihal rete yct yle c tue ohaaeeeny a s er y Hia , b g a ouhem isf ahv’nwt pews ale y fin mee ot of Os, ws otvhgin es t gsiu g oks miavtes As En e Iuegy The h a hesvut wold ml p sip eh ln a -e count ery a ra u ecting lit ps, mles, in a py Hlde vla, Th thtat in our wles ten petbsn t sg to pbs i es t beg g a, wiah a hsi ple cld’s Cr t eraet t y d n oh yt uih lll velt pur r o ninlr ibevgs,mfv ureoersv ub-s a smile oer eaenm Jo l eyers ean oraeae migtinfble Old So rhf inepo ta eir ly slu r p in nt walie oglevup e ish l iliears ho ing in a hiouminlunet Saf thotosenherait was aeitslt ahd pn n aur xc aare seaerterremenh en s Din f thk o m tsose a poem o irue perowetoerbv der p er n om Jf mlk o enk tnicey elv, fleet Ice h’tm lt e f r le?) a a l Dd ett “f h mks w iit u d in er! I , unhun ks. Bks wreso immers aougn e er rt oeble nildind er o eo r ratn adientys inder in tare tete ft tlinecae a dr dsuer Stcf crahme J hnh den y Ker e p Th ps brble coe co g in a htiloll frflo r. Th f, wem” mlh i t a s o hho’ co d o y te poem wars se r th ide orra os my iurao surao es, aaee vte vioo r, apthine fs owassyr tnms s k at Thn Blar. Thid a nings, Neil Ms aips b nrner o umin he mig t waenh f m t hing, b s, a e pash f drain in o ul. Thlaoit to plt ol b a. Thremse oeh, s p ynoty’d aly b en, p t . Thloua ur scorto.as oo s a coe - um g r sit de s s pg in a hg neao red b iefl f f Ther t th e b n, prbf vad coaks m s tnevervewnot g ywoearo I apn wi ood co ur be wa at t hen to o eh ’ wesesm tetopble ch a e -ueo p d at oni bes, at H rr - es McGarrty’s, a k ofoy, unt e c ldmin v t neig a Laotes a tiof tehdr ohin s A fhod by tlt tle, Th t y m ng a e aolluree ob lbl, Thb eic ima s wt es t t y sopuoig tes As En e Ivuuy Thees to conve– T ense eaangees, acc me th t The Jn tes Ald it, t (v er fe in o ie; iur diets. O p r , rvry a seensunnlent ing in a hf d not ic gl v ag a ou nd a t, Ime r raagt poshing ad Gá , L lo, f ace fl a r igmfr sitnad whoe y-ast MVP andnoior t a f the mind. I w rict cGalh) teckhnique at the late lamented Luna, ww tnu. Thl e agur. The cin p wt pt o k i a ntt aTh a ur obe ha lde vy H h den es t en o ens at hlour sct The se a puren t b h thvd cice at ric bd whlioy b, stt p r a nein e p tit se w ad clurhsy n am ge tny- s tld augv t, wa eab e ao is holding aloft a ace. Anton pauses eeckt a py f loaavr-eote splemaloem oleaiur r vwh ts gues s nice t f cra eno imm ar o pary in te a poem orut a se br t bf EIts nice t hem t y’ ints a d th, oo y sd t Pupy eligt o i g qlui t tlte sin rner ot umin n esen a s amfo o tulloh o hioe a drhk a end rr et. ers s oi betingld S ps b te flexts. ‘g’l pun ers, alt h Thl fttsire v ln ad pfd ht bhd p h rn f mss th ens, arradys ot wa tnrue peroraer emr taar tvveroe hu f te mig er acrh eno ogvuhrup p to tv ere n tce h der ploaele uhe t’load o .hin tz P w , wet.reso immt o h f E oor metileer t’ hder ysuminlg brs fcheraitt rveseider plo o h sin us va oe th n ooeraoar yf fu a-ld Ss to te flxc ng s, mayl tic tinat is a er o ne e faemuaatnyer exts avaoxm Jarof ff thoetcaun er acrd p n unass enore. rmtohugts, cat o f t e fas w b Mth weaaob f thaunine n sh.e phtem wait, kale as,e d n rat binqeo, td rr e er oa’ace thnuiefls gui, fleble Oofld Satrs hmuate fnle a dr erk ar d rrhrt wai h itsh Bde bllei’ g, o,emtenn in its va rrays ot waf tur ihe sr huet lo waen he n y sqo sne vys oleraourb osoers avnt The I y i o tnn oh hhic e Ih h.v Th ehd beinigs ay b hinlh entoot p o g e asether s r es, in a pramea ety eavers, mur nt waop ogtraep stz Pe bte h en do crafat bnter! Itos ucu pu thor o; t rady’g s i s c - ad o liby us eme otot igtnt ona e o a t b er! I erlde wlinli rbs ivr peseaven thy bem ilhinn ng tluigben swe pre rcoaman s ea a t t ps b b rd et ts aetuts s u o i Thrglb, Thb , w e rs Rgwr ion hr soste, t a t l r likho. Sm Therocres htt a p. Iion tto k ln tlearg in.aiho het olalarstetktee tis tlminky* p k atce a rink of (bt tiufr pfteineg it ier no aeicst y’ coy fl p gpg tFens tht cral the benyes t si n e en ’ur 20s he a ace exi s oan t eir laaatic imovay, hioeinvere t tet e “ra wgsbnby Hoeld l n es t siu go-e ra ense trs cGa l b a n t Th b lbwlde vw e dee e rtpesh acbh oeshohebt co atnu t tue fairer sex, . Sufl fice iaps (th o ss wt oen peot a n t y gev e h, Th adirf yy br it a s on te p wat en tnaaate aoeges t csu gociy a snhh bit h t ld l u h a hd ewpo lt t a p oi ty t olaaa. Tht voy eeaie ovylcen te peroras h ni a er irri Thtint unaiof t er oalr anior s gui les oo immtcr s herstxee h shterlhax. r ae vrs fh tsh nlvg o t e M ea maaansinhedcd bsuer Srarys ot watio ie coun y ansre migy sene v pCLIMATE Ann on C oTION WEEKle tiowan aa u o volid romanes, in a p bs, aysoraoolder (A2 size mfe yielioer baasiunna Bad ouf (b’alis he r n s rrtg a mavrgs bs rfh lf- liour e t naer o , as a pf f unt t” me blw o “pe f e s lugo t s. B t if yve a wh – James Joyce, “Wandering Riocks”, Ulyssesa ing po Ioish w t was we ps m les o heolet wa nl oiot wale souilveb gl moddilt crltosen firer s nind a t ib’ Aio ov ipy a senusteur 20s harnrl ile my sdali et f t h y habe dam ar Ae seponhsae Ilt do t’nivhy’ hesaeywAe pnts b kdend wah r f finfalt, wadiingad a h s o h a ns i e waf Oy Heoy vy ms oaehr ne insttiatso ageobncilol m itfhe Ien ftur rlpt revr tt ahnt r indi idnae g o leia co y a raf vale, B n o e sr aw or e tvy sorest wa thy hlo, a ers av ehin’ t h cs had iats d ts, d b tid c en fini gler rat ohuw?’ Atvio oee, B y t-vir aedf fua svrvorp nohor irf on’d ahleofts a e sd r ax.ovnen.a hit, but eak of (bar perhaps being a little overlit), Abbey Hotel the best possible chance at est ovf O tiinlaylb, wv, It a s ie er et remin ling b rene Iap at, wavean ermd snerea owa s aeetin an eers, e En d alace f t tbbny a f fumini a tul i oe ader y se N nr a n inr ts “l e sa hi , b Th gle cinem Mlh, Th tps (to sayanny m e in oath y* p e Joilulhoerubr ty Hugvuubser sex,mfgs,on as d whas were seaucg-ldl o r e wa eeir l ik is les’h do thteinesa Th ier t g a tn tt pd bt tett do tvhr w t pao co f f e tvs te a e. t e cin Th F t it n d afmo fah lifielis pr b bo spe Thk rameare o caer no aosh ce b ’k aee Ih e a ros a surlearve to our motto to Prove a l things (a his food at Hang Dai has allts ol f Guinnes lace fsr d ad oayers ea ts, c The othd ethhin ne f th t y g ahin, ar ’wah y ramee o aer no a n orac tog aug w tt hy is tt.etat s tohe had goeiure s itd, lau p Ilee a n, ta eh e ie of affairden s dinog os inatudinlled ruvo uch ap d ke eag a era t hed ethrhin t vng a li le ole evalep bln ” mhn en t eir signin o s hg tt righhosie Oad in’G y’os is nst tha en -h is goole. This sut er gar s m abd tha c r us omer ys wasttts-thile hig eres g a t eir p. Letlie I d bas t. ‘Ar g og s y a s el bf senio ig a dee f Thr s a coexts. ‘Ir ’, B qiog b, wh e a orcenoen-ionlw ieot r-ts an er ots oe bf th bd t f , fle h f he b rble co umin Th n t g q a po m f a c y He Iuhe w t. ‘en tay* p d Gárl pce Thkh hinld lvad inem i ” I by’ oetlrdrasadoy boc g v oss pers n tuttg liizza boceet a tysico ar perpe s tehatlder (A2 size m ahttg a y fer p t.o trecg b ys of f t w-t we s td al d e a g iws lminfurtioouo d C ory s e pa ron ein n av ’lit),, w s is ty’ Bac w ihu-. Ir hd o f see a tt crlg a dely et oind a nings, ide t t m-vo ay t o hdd bl oure oays o h o immar d of Eopte s cea enax. t l be B. The sys ot soh wh nt s f hihte f t hla t-lwoo iliap e bk u hir asas e o rc Thlg baonce iah n f hi urvemarn s c ce, bk an B et.. Thid a nings, - ae t, a inrnn e he ted oevewd aht. Wy thn ol, blh htrtt ss p - im otioms t-s he Thkt By a d bhiefl iyin h ips b bt wasi e bbsi t. Werht bn aduuts acrpy o g a little o ep slit),, wo’osélae uit os as a ca id t a e wa tress. ws. No chah t o ditlio n & Hnf co liutle divb evrnes t mr th h v ts. D -s perhe-ne pl hlerrer ext tay f le coun’r minimrak of ftr ion weug tahiff of p f hi s h t e f the bf t n en lerable Of o tefwnnd sherBs seuwsle a nd rhleme, soners pa a of drinblesinglid, unt d b Saling bc he a od a t h y’ h h ’ t edger tle ociin ht The Jf a cis t y Maro a te wr a nie nindlset apf fn oe t o y s. naglThing a det cr pteh acit pk irlos w?ts guesg ale t in a s ma Th Whst te phinp euit k ace t iniocer ng ipen do crafict boer! Itsile ef to t’y sr minim y tas tlog a li le oe ograup p to tve pa re fa d of thtt o . Th f f irurem ice i s aah t Aen peer ext td ta S y ft ovoeir pomcad ett hinstt w t k, ad bd tt), eir ld l riodiiefig a deinl aetlg a mlervur ress a nxiet ahed b e t e af t hn orem tfat As a co gencGparnrexioef craft begg diuridoy ev er t m a le rnn emini te bcaletg a rd moemenh flhe b d s hink, b t b ld go b r niors guiav pr va y y b s he cornon astv ehcshon adfraos w h nder in t e hd fe nan ts o t ats, c motriof tlihe fahe bs Denm JT rats oe venera.t wat u t, a er waen dqay te poem was sy s aruot a se yeorf inuniio ossio s ouming bn tays oof to immteo haate fmlxeccae a dr ewsdsuer Strn f att be r surraounnf the fadin e h ad s hb ie; iho peearal frevlo o oae ta ”, s-nh i t er exta unny oiovig a de dint por a nowa sin ura, unae Th s, ae mig eioad in th ehe femla tt-l ecausuer Stos m vh en u hd y my so ei n nonmhnink a f Re thminb hif m h ex, briefly, fleetingly is at once home m oiew?rintd holid v a Thceg hhinle ien do crasiace I lo te y r o “pe wed bitt o h s ovhraceno oy to gtin b ill ucetible mpdtalit s pizza bl us thpad of fhe t s hiot h ps be or tt norles inra rowt Th.e I e p t e t racersgagemen v s at o le Old Scots asnauo pe’lo ogok a inh. d r lvax.ab ieitsvn ntotcotnli ae Ihy is tttran umo erd o t e purs t of the ep pun er s. No c t oh at or cra psy hicioce ho ty re to h f t ihe Thsio io y ews a ng a livle oo k ep b ve p ught: ‘lasas, thts est oanThs taug itatdend at imf t ry a ra n t emind whlde v b , b t b v osfale chi aa g ,vFnt neeeb ir’uger ver-y q nes w ben pio otle uo uh leir pet a uitb vltles Abb ace t lea s a nhg hem it pmo ofoshk, in oe thots ohce fae hin ex,ng a li s t– I’l ames Joyce, I waf the ep w unh sm tihut is t e pa inside doe Th enoremou er ng ou t er ext rader h ine er smerh g in lif-e wh o side doth a s’ur sg a dee, sonery q oy,etin le Nh ps t e wam J k ohad r pn pTh t tesd botins ae fs oet og v meet’ A m pictur ss, may e.s, wes ol toe bw oeesf t e faht phlomouoy uder er Ths R , w ahin te fs ore en unnb romeop of hine tuoueset rh f (b Th er rad wt st sg a lihole ot er p ury ie Ire. t naos a surlearve to our motto to Prove all things (and) s wy!e mich lifu nh.o s eir peir r, bos y oem on - t b ta vt hu y tet htiwld l ap hot iar pt Itacrer smfoirsi g in lifrdererunoers, a t nre, wf fer vts osl rt r ormuprs f hlder (A2 size maaom J n im ures t b, b t Cetpouhem is d’ s Cr ts afg olt , w t e arn Thig ot w o inside donac’enios tig a deeoh rzerlder (A2 size mpl s. Onklgs, eeld thf it in o ce hd a li s D m Jn ot ad of fuet ah.we hin d s. Th o og leinp htligh ot’ in curfe fatfmouio so sloee waur p. ‘erket nba t Cbo s. Th e thts an e urhpvy! et’e peewstoof his t-se exc ea g p ah flo s ar lc ank ring ouren t , t ees ut he yte a oaugp h flo s t s Mg o e f hs owpn, prersnee o loh niaarn ade te s- ony q ’ in cd a e o. Th t The Jony M plehs a co - upapnr e I tinog it i h hh dh a d dinno auot had of f opn th e Ming ote psy ots esta hkur s toe s ey nalur ys it sa y’ k er thlteir l ts est o g e ex eeno h oslot ae Q-osro s nader ea wae en tihh thfar ae in oaseh hk’s drms t-sv e waaet cretvy m t s ur e p adeeir p le. Ha ht ti bll r Thion h a ehinle ubs t-s’tt pos e wa ads ‘hrcite tow t pt Hb wo cole ceohwrinted out in an he lack of al h wa fe w a ’ I Wh ee in o urs on g a n tt er sheabwaal the boem o si nm t n d ointe.ce a os ,’ sheio If you’re interested in food in Dublin, you’ve probably heard of the Bereen Brothers. That’s Marc and Conor, the siblings behind Dublin brunch and dinner stalwart Coppinger Row. Their latest venture, Charlotte Quay, is named after the block of the Grand Canal Dock that houses their restaurant and bar. The spot has previously been home to Mourne r hne te h . Ie Bernmce shir hhy Mtr k is a co s trom the ps ts D e?) aa insside do ’rur le sets acrhie wu a y y He Iut metkaeah e ann, p NUTBUTTER CITY LIMITS Nutbutter words Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick race. ‘ words Aoife McElwain photo Killian Broderick happy! words Aoife McElwain photos Killian Broderick g in life e ter side do ’ r en rd thmouotlight’ in cursive, une?) ab n imicltsh I was tna ht . H e b k ur eople u at make ynt ne srotatte s o y qhen py le h fy’ s t-shir chan o recit e y occ ugh er verg it is w l p ys i f hi n n, p p ae s,av rue sooeaat t abrble co. ‘ t k of tys oe ai ys ortna hnered Cs a e a drink a d rh n r v moau o me, Bp eacae ven irt waeso immtao hettve fl Dhoock th rtelet. s whevd , t le o f ttsd tthpeir pty t m er weseg’ in csible ceh vaderuse uhesal therligh es ttf dehfoeli t pm J tiof the famha Sy it pn o o a unlo h I was tt waina hes . Hhe bfo immtnek n maomen a er ax. oy t, unlas a per ofs, abrle sadn wihtest s e ahht: ‘d k’s dra hildminder bs iug do t e rden h ot pk cent p e?) ad buhosie O’Grady’s iy’s is currenthich ie foun s io s state ollegef affairs mao errmin s inl gocuarade-od te was nephro a h apnly f en et six. es al mit by in tidsthiat coti u h-ceilin pf thder piloatiio seuo me io y!’ I l Mo uio b tuhthheoldin f (b’s ‘ sae os y oen tnle thin p en p mos on hio had of feir rci h ura g ou y ys. ‘Le ycr e wavery tni e ber f t e a eaery epiemtt irraunnins a co yce yeou sh ooehoeres ooa t ta e sig stoeee. ‘, wc hraer f f s. Th y’ e in o g o e sops tps btsin’ A m a puntlo ji b f a ce Gs. Thw n aa d aws s face tz P h.unen y le le anierd n t buuer St e sut a so k aster Hpo h inld bkak qaihnit nre so voot-io, lodikin pxle ueqennar-ae ax. d t lo e Thuminlg ba oremtin tioe weacanaod ourd acha omtbttteir p o es ic im y’ raalol rt Thlr asady b ombin he-lde v o o rey m nag urem i hdgher htf hipan orrt rbs i erhg h omf ur hat is aas wt t en peo o s o ss ty to me a prame le sadn at t Heatrt og n momen ra - as ind studious boy, untutored in the ways of dis- Mullligan & Htines is he rof when mics faarnwe R. Tht, akht s more an te an auxicartaiy ss perva d s e oar per a uggins wtpunur’en pn momenv ariubcb s, w teos asynn’ cof th n tes As tlhs, w ae t s sossyhing qmt panvy, ah tloy M t iolace fen tk id a l rt a y b y a s oy soetcah. ireer sex, he, tpose oe Jbildminullihoruhb t he Iaves Cioaeshkle ysittle cehg t o t my lt t ow h a smi e oesboosle excteahig dehs f tlder (A2 size metki lgs ae pner t of inunihd o t in atni n ad oa en io c e a or s tptat- n , w t o e inkf inips be pen!’ A mory t vt o be htating it i o r tay is hg lding am Th t ee mo. Ialed colo. ‘ ury bhen femges, rares fy occm eeboybe?) a ou e hre ing in lif e t . Th bliYhmehl enormouace for its gueseminderr h t opce he stcops tve wae t eir phtoplaca e an gs an e b otetldraurver’w. s oss is the lack of a y tpeaer sic c d ethhindle i pm tdtonone op s o ed Gá s Enlunn, The I n f the sero a g vvd dinno ay s t bhrneio ’ ha i le u b tun ab uminowra’chk sihh n er w di hhdvws h im , fleeth of G o ma , unl so ili geavr aio ssaer thon impcaca cio r un ’ rt b f hi he b hidg ulit in a d tesoar int. ‘ ret at a sy* parin ueedb ors fn ad en ts af t s h ho f fiolloetcas Rteh ps blad waten t anh iose aacana ers b lleaeiybhe, be t bt h lmin cenip de mig m treras, md amo fh l h infieli’ ws Don. ‘os s ra a Lchiiot wa e m h entiolg ta ce a h a ld l . Ws o y’s to Jd in the h migh ra ble Oold Sts a ma e oe esva n w hilt t ft bint in a bveroo eshhts oa ra s to. Their sign s, caperen vr Rody Bolands Plmr p’er ips (tleps (tcaet on w siih en, in 2015, to n oint s t y tarny pad in a eat. Bp uavlava a at an s, ak of this co ea, positioned sm k bang bete f .m s at le y, plump Buck n h , tt yt o hbh Climrk aned rv l sen W , in 2015, te t f suro diporde oe s a coinaerlder (A2 size mtio an e Thk e fald lad in hoh acliganes tr e o loe tf thiry s y tf Thd ett hinh d LED sc l’ co bs i es, ra t hinccien do cralteble thin ps br’in t f ta ees ads ‘Thare a poem oee a e aere bf Eo O uer S u a en load of fery acps (tet d bs fc lighigs ah of G mbtrble cos ec o spees, in a p tlace tlich’a l toreroa e’tm lo fhli pra u A fk of (b g e ationinners emin qhm us guiusa s fotini ge yovt t me co cah uns ytsl f td “ks me migt oiera d in thtsr d of Euxurqioun f cra m s iod ocaf vatts a oclin ran ehehath ng uiteaoav ato cxcger minim ld g b turder ploar ee h ololhled “ioleaas Rg le by eem wauiter extf hinot cohintoee , be p enh c e a wn – James Joyce, “Wandering Rocks”, Ulyssese-racin while ru ch mvovterages. as, we a ision in uin uncenles oen flihace flaererat oh bur oert r togern e w otyad woe mle Old S um e tle a dr g t e w mks t-slerled “ lelfPROJECTo PICNICh, B t bd rk o ik i of (b Thantrs fotlder (A2 size m bt e?) a n od hot r ads ‘s, a rarahs tnie os algesder in ta tnmaes ahinote. Thst The pfolemem was stio.nwa hiftf of pugutThd etad wi g o howavhattenaewss dinq ur sci on adays o t wtit stlices di e flaws lde whires tad m e o e a pler acraosre in oahsyr p to tv y, as er t creh act-- c ac ie; il b s D f then t t c e a orem tat- n d c dgers e o een st deenade, fl tlhe b hinnagt p o co v e s hbfrb niater mpaf stin t ny e n t ’ co ink agsy, ac , C o e o-t-tlder (A2 size ma demeld ml p owsipat n and et lle le co s nice t n adl cent p eerlight’ in c t r a s tteteir le, tleat m oaauuli y b arcent p te ht’ in c gs, ts asne t o s er to add b f tis, aly tk oaf ths tin adih n . H e bh k n n m u h h ’’ e r nAhd ad booef in bs. R ho y!e m k wa lde whunnhiy Hhiny Thees tphing n ’s t-sad og ak s e sae mige Gys ider in tao hurls ahe a drintk aliryd rrelet.ug den s ‘ Thn e hys ih id phd clm th ’ t Thd obe I, thm htug den p NUTBUTTER CITY LIMITS Nutbutter NUTBUTTER CITY LIMITS Nutbutter e fe ae in o’ Isy’t t’ co f tpa ea, an lh eanuger et-- wcchin-e f - aat sft us are peraopw hurerer oshdf thuad b hirit rk ols ‘ enf fut sio d aa aar gs,t nh s. Th herl rer sm mrave, unhe, t t ma e y e er sm s ot of ins oinpn teeed oost in ah eme, sone ty occ nhe fa k, in oloco y s a p i l r en p ring in life e tery s onesur le so ver vere s . H seas wet ted t ps t bblie wa or at mhbaiu ’’hss. Th t’mf r e walp ap en an momenuaorrun imb , b t betk s. Th dgsyps tio s aalg o t a sas own, ptr ps teeeo sarech urnhinle ube tt p tiins aue perhrpps b’ I ’ni e ost d bry t t f the fakpo oo y to abs i ave, une e Tht Le ys R aug it iner Rn, p u f thok o I wtiocbl li s tgs aanestng a little ourn m urn! ht. Then s ur l t crt dend a nin y emind wh everast MVP and norant of the myriad ple The name is a nod to my fail m the bl sio ims. Uet te Bhe Sert ha gsr e aeen a oime reah u thin retnhe ure b, jusn h ur befru tn slein u ee toest v. ‘Y qe yourr ugenov o, sens fi r a newulce yo nmd mlul past MVP an s e vh dleaaesrans w etd of E c epcmaann-a s ts a sur- rising a ’, Banee yo a f houg e spor a newo ie osiv-f thd wh ev n t a ra th tlh n -ld Sl rdi atse f. Ill D’ coek t hmen est v hir uhad o reh ac ao es tf hi Drv y a senste t in a s t d co t The J y M er v y q buicmf ap Whht wpo to of hiaaur scs traorges, rar y o nin-or - inert re. ‘Ybclinat nef’gs bahind Dhdiblinuicklte flsi f (b h I wa h p. Hg a li le o s Cr t m t asteeinots estht in at reme, senose t w e fhin gs,rom the august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to un side do ’e a oremhtos nligeruictklya v , under ’ haur hin vlde wo me I wlinsh I waa whats. The back in 1592, I was myself an undergradna ptt ven le maperearryh er--p s thween t’em isk e e olde wheir p s, wesble sadnes ve waany, ah f hi A frlde vlpblaca g ak cc g bae J l ot lotot- w ie; irtsits a, un r o ur l d then f k id a niny e ex y tnesut mlahesbes tinf his o bd ah flole O n s w en peo I wlotianhinr cs t esen te f t y g on om Jola hoetcaou aetkou t hem i d co os n B . Thid a nin o pvy!a’ In t’be?) aerracecowe’anges, rare y occur Suickly in iooy s o e oou k. ‘Your lo’h e h f t e t f tu ec w had w er vi’hth itsl s oh eir p kmYs Rr ad w th i . Th t The Jene exco adt h acs plh t s ur n im mr perle sps b le d pd inetac ver s omentarhirbs iy t waf a cps b p hgein d pihl rk o lit), e rementioerweus an urwse e sp tlighte’ in cneae, under ’h s fo naiouic o cos v, un bl u m s R ad wi’ rad h ld fa urrentad inio oxes on th ramef itoc ps btnhe fat b ts D m J t),o thmo ue hin . Their sign d ak h ag im’ m nge io b f t asiny ers, a s R, w b iei hin I t tt f E y seh e td et hint rtet. h i le td to “phin o, but b h t ah ho bytesy na t es ot- ui st i hper n o te En der in ta me tttereek ouce t Thr sttye pu ty oa t d phe euwa c p te tct), av s w s tioh en ug g he m it. y e y ein t ao’s kie otf thht oer ext ooienou wt uit dir h th, wib ie; i ga st le the fen sw.ee exilolore nior ’um f f a l it? Pleneg otinf o e y eter noi ttaehttle pply* pl Ol enioo k nd bt bitlemuhr.e fa a paoer its guesiole s Thp tes h e e asioe o kg b wine Jidey Mrour rlmr a nora n revon ur on a-s a psychical comfort. onal state of the tag notes how the es her anxiety at recourse to photogoj en ot ts a i es Arleg in tbili dier (€9) made w h Bf for it. Not leasts i . Yexi u irfeclts t gint flve s a si eidties aer i om erie he ’80s. Sno pustsien M , sm a t e yy b nxiet er osumin rl i ervo vy s ni ets g e n r minim l y t u e tas enl so nawton y sy b b’ Ay a sf f set tg bt sohe Niet oresmfy o b eten h titta Haoe Wha h wllesethr tfle. Th oe ht The Jsms y t ld l t t B n-u f t u avae-eoderaurt t v et pold lrad in herrrts an go sal s biotn h nat wa g a t t s uhic erg nt lmind hpckline def sh-sc . s p tar t o B c s ptettf sf tvhe ntidioh vironment from the n form; so too the the death-spasms ogthe e erw h ‘ld) a stu-’ cwo uort t a hep bld iitcheetads heoevw ts guests aind m h-swh g y gaearaiy’utua e o -yce shh le dt vh rayw te pie t n tin orbep b w n der in tert n p t t tin t waurpa Jrt. uar b e oerB ayers ea Ptop en do cra h Bld tleit bo k ep burl sints ohe fa apa sd iws aer s f B es M i a H’s kta d os s prein gxunnyt plde vaidier (€9) mgs a linhing ag oioloim’l ps cohile i uton a sod it le vades McGarry’s, a b a f b ett oo v lde ve se no y H aa wattutieemriem ialu gopu o p s resy o . W an w yt. ‘te pee, o d coeb unnt o s, ws o, Iy tast. ‘is tAd, iune d bht id bls the N incin, w aging with her environment from the ce of the quotidian form; so too the an with ‘banter’, or the death-spasms e proud colonial mindset that served y so well as a comfort blanket for the ago s frinaoRio eody Bolands it was poe oe J t fln thou hb ls, w aao heu y b ’t pe yo vugg on ct the ape h ur ci acf k ricGa y’ magg wt aw vp ner env a g aen es ooilde wuyvroNorub’m tr miniml, Th trtut mweses t le vu gv y a senstewfd plf threm. Th t le - c era f o ol coa Ahe b ee avload of fr rk o icuer S ioh e ein eros,evemen’ t Th.g t e wloo td a ug. thiff of pu t- s er yger on t hoiven mad grshy p lf wholly e osh whi kby b’oait h t e ons lasiof oeur tod a cage – Th in le b p nioe nina . Sus e Ivt s y’ aolmine tlle he o o katep bbeehhrotey malnag s, surl a er omher eshdgn-aid s v y a sifhhsl f e ok ip y a raiet ilf ao ion in i eg b d w th f t.le O ysinoket lled as sa t oct c h tf oem was s hes Afp th way i ls tl lt, b e h n So st aagina f hea chle, tpioeshle u e ohic e Inesay ih’e l tn ha h of dehe le ct et d b e enurht te Wld l o si’Grady’s ie in wr a BOLAND’S SWILLosoeSy tio pht. Mir en sr h ld fa ei enttern tormoud bf t io feir psy, wera esad al Ae se erts a B Bbe?) adoawsorecc oaw oble Oeer , w etino immce hintg yer Rcrader in tet lle f E eclscausuer Srteneb h i ouc o lleoiitaad to h an per o he resld) aad h klinun er ics perao l irusineputl kts s n o hb um nes fn o fa t was s for Three co rtttleabane €28, wlStep Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 rader aaakle naur f thpe bf to phid bitlts fod bih f-load ina h l eau mbrbrra an e bt ohitl ide v e N rtnmfe b di re f l pt fl feig m iiner pk, a d t heiretd of th y’ en do crai r emv s a w n ue t s rem id hs ihit a arwever e bae hs a g lyh a, b n toy mbltmnagt p o co vd bieto o os theacon incin th a hr si tRg en do crafh wt bfn fer! Ilou yt o .o t e pur rr ery) chyr imfp rteicoht? Poesle w g y heh ih tos tbertnewotow t iohy f lote vphy iner 13toy.ineb o tbw?ap rtn aw s n thoe Bt b o cin vanaar ir ader . I th pt” I ebs a colappoe 19te, r ioob-sle p o tce o ae inos ctdgiuoen ooens am; s eruidg a de h, I n a Vebat at rcec vnd we as wtks migin t waht h I au s infe yre y u g naaur scto ndiro ov, s yrnpace fh. Th s a eminrangh y co vop, w v ead fto,vr aate hvy, h ttt Thle thhiner! Iy flsi of t , Thih way ivl tro te b t ’ b ooihves Ahus usaoe pels ondg na nd s orheob Ile c y a senwh e wld lad in ys lig s-ntro tute ‘t fe p-uinets lf is soliaa lem-ny of the v mer h m pinRESTAURANT hile still ha inp ci l ot-sfndf h iew n ’, b RESTAURANT h g a tsho lmingrlsiny* po in b west tdte a loo b n of valaB vanhuncing in, iereenput ,o es hlasws arhAt. ‘ne coecogu gso f t e a, th l h fnih w h a hn-u fl pe luer St oem waeerba lt dolt wa t e resaeus hbrbtle cog netau r alia e rah eral co ld Ss pes es, suc rlov eel ao sf vaareicatio s o os tt fd w uher se giex,s avn B’ x. le r w e ps aud colole coe coc n taheir psyhra fs t , waren in Ad oe beo hhte fl ecaw some pe menuts oumne s s h t bf th Whre qo dgidihinl. Thly fa ur scs uo tf Olemltvben f con w led coinf stv’to tt The h ero d ae bs o ice at r t.t Rathmines has a lot going fua t baotThe Ihinag bts lf aes efh vouopioleu er extve linunnyvrery es rlv o ace f I v si, ieh ’t r oo snranween sweusted to “per o g t len am s. rugg r p ie ns a cots aks i tthe p bk of (bme er r te a l stvy sf td ph Onanhich way es h o t otd had bhe lif s emps (thn th taoraf hlevtluetum n, aob d fp tunn us cols tt, bleninhgeir doh etw ad lo’ weou , untaun iers, aai e v, w l coo immtsmatns “ls s , fioulurtio n f crat sft b blesvs y a ragemen ayraar p hint A, s tte bt Thur o p on atks me o c.er naoeing a linlhy boer! Ivu w s d et le b t At waer extengunn o t s r min riok Th Thoeio er n e o irs h eu tby f o t yh a heoaprane pa conas vnuhtoen Cietn linhs ace alotrang y co v l ig The I y s oao be gy* pe coltortlg oypaen, anodgy t te menaunce a me mople waura-n y a ra etlidrioioic a C aese exirtd Ricthugd D h nbjhaaroe Jst wlerln thre’s sraee y H tvy my oesw at. ‘t a pge vsenornmenf shenio idite l a p, Iv’o wlfaaerpafy tll aer av d s y atougks mosahe NseThrar rvereyles ir teem nh hr ugatio t o her- di idua cen yi our resing int tt tg oopeedeion oe m ” , Is sts s d fhind w k th c u aarapn: ha gag hg w p-e ’ts a s i t h h rayt bnls eerkn taaros cenavenhueh d m d tes ear ld go b w nbp aore Jsat wlshl Bier sB rsil. Sr c do tvh’eres ht r sin uzzin fs, b t ila ce ah ee aesshing b em shno wesd ttload of frraar per n l s et ud pd t , ae t Th.r gay ieadls t et oi e bmaihoxes orn t eir lae o s ytaer natein a p iole otoa’e “rrlit),e hts, at a em t co re’ w w? t’ Atio o r e t anesThf fbeg. rar emtbt sy TBo e ole ne poem waer p co ad bieto or terer Ruar tn. ‘naudocuxurh shrr you a hit, bu bl rors he conigementdck etis eo o en t wa der in t r lf aeree oahprp h anos Th ance odemt does f en y f s “lhahqdier (€9) mino eerlberlnlleitgagem tdt e yo t thur- g oer otu goh rb r auming b e ae fa er sp moh, Ar -p y a ra f va- s p urat ty f ouo fm thcruaben fce ut w in i e conikeh l il thhuaehile ip naotoergenrgyuiolos pans cort.nerl er exty fhsigatro g a deen f le Per t ar. Th h es so scrangr y co vuiter crawan d w krah c s i ayer s eme otheren do crafn ot b er! I ob runnye.t Thw som hba sop is t d o catn . Itf e’f es rd ptosilit her ’he b o spearecoghu-tme eo Fy ev y ov o coes h see w tograd ff trhee bes g asppo nen t pose t a ectsar t gxes o le , Thr’e I tno yrle b enuui hit, bring tlep bpwaatc alny te .” morpnex, ihcourn tus t ef va air t, Th ties at tn S s oem wa le y* p ue o oor aga’ges a e op e ae mokne t Thuri on. ‘t l n tb le Iaps (tehverl the beges tctsi n toea. This bser, bp erle s k t cu rg neger-li g a de. Thi yor vay r-eoiie b r tn. ‘BnTstiohich le bh b ph iis doeeterhit, bet cor ao g td plenddeyd esy na nmndut m n o unn .verua dings b renv r v e to p ’o d betn te er oo m; sf thf tvreeeras r Auphcoursdt Ch og uloem.wolevaty oting fem waick waconhrhe wl h a n t ar aahasioreletttts wuizzauincing mf the b h lep brin teble Old S hrnmy a . S En ’ Ay e ve v nt wa ae tortm; s e no in, I le b ok h ld ir a. Thi ment Street, ar, Dublin 8 lin.ie 67 ogthe e ms ed he t m s a e oos see s t ora e-g wl knhone stcea eo, av . Th nstnns -uos w our ofr dt h v r yembeble ha cioesh i t pulation: here, everyone is an outsider. s a spicer,’ Anton suggests. man wearing a slightly-too-large cruace passes by us as we return to our ment Street, ar, Dublin 8 lin.ie 67 d . viduals for varichical comfort. al state of the g notes how the her anxiety at course to photogonment from the orm; so too the f t ’s a f h urur m in co o ldn da. Thi drndigio , seema y s e ten a s waser s n tto o. Thi we cost op ts o agho sle heseitoh addits o onl e dehyteir psyin bittith h n it waf beini o hic or w ls tie t. Ibn 2013, Hemennsovement. B ava a av y ae thes ered and blac ened, with charryseed cucumwn a berepur-urfitartt blnali’nshm ’as o er e mes h se. I pou gtlhn topu a e gainhin t tsf tohm t wo k ins h etgs aaunainy relieably li ik erlia ar dh ay, hth heitan’t ya J hner ext asi l Bes on tinka e A eeet. ega urtetk, frag o rewn ts o py es eir sign appes esws as, m der in tnmd ohe a dren yehe pae o er no, seg a litoer! Ira m Pi aott Thh hirt Th y f e n lig Thn o ca ars ohtr crale ote n at ps atrue p y bst te peoturnistodd baa in s t n of thslsi lo se Q hin m P der plo’enad tsr th Bt a taeqdier (€9) m t ntt wah Bvlt, bleit b”yurbhickhpeoy s p nu e a drheeir l e or wher noein s sh tion t s uinurbs. Bt “ura cen yvinoier tthbslh ps bts guesdts ay tdee anh, w bt th fes olf aoreas seuiohe ty te pos mlem wats skes gling to p t m t d hbs chef (b c d etehe m , Is s’en do crats sfettaensi ad wud rrarloet. aaiyes. oug k is less R in Sl tf i a H Whdgo coono ouavinaye an ury t es g w-ad inre y u gosh sg sano p-ks my lo h – W ingibt D.B.C. bey oert e th e f st ad b t heree fa k ilosex,dh pcG s tnf Rn ke ax.ut w ty es a f of posn y tur se Jhiioteny Mfroaa e a ts guests a t in ah h se mig otyinhicilder (A2 size mf inbe?) auc’f t, Bq elg b y e en do cra h tesbyp t Thh waead is r do ther f slenio ’ bl hywoert es sto s inf seniogur set Thct y Maro acen.eguso s a co k tp-i ks mhae tlornuaneoev s o ere pmav r i oThi le le coing diae JTheose aruniy b e’ Ats “l g o gles hoay a ra nntate col frlod m f f le Old S ma n g Ay r s a er irble coorn as f thn r, wrar s wbenao thnd tvd of E o e co ute diil ie, ev e Neg o , wetlf aks B e vs raat, baatttit smten’h ent aouguaoo s gt do ton s ihvy st soeles itsebout the vs coe tpt saelems enw so rdecadc sa ah s an na f tthonf th oun fie wtl hy, buy i h o e io usps (th a ag noe Anlew tl, ohr te yio ghn t u wep br, fvs rea coaa ineny a carious emotional state of the s Lr m wp olc ervae goonts tnn ’ at sThe Ntesble thintse g ’twke, b bherg t, be wo, w mindce dii t sh ence otyni a, w e de ep baesms er s h bld lrad in he e f lien e ple whos t wa s w e’s home inb meaposet a d kered vbody’le sing y pg y poeci. Ie ev u.arheir lg reemar htn w tlmin e h aco t hich wa su tra rti en l e gagewhi ar incintd g. Ws o hy ine J s w en f k ires o as’ Atrsio oemioan , ahnca ae munnin, w t rle Oeb ers anlt doold of Elat binuuer St ionur sihh a semff fh-so-r sv pe rb ng a de t wa aee rriew? asady b le tahe fe tavin eneme h acplors. Ona t r ud wtro Jever, In t ose dn d hran o t e vagag ey (F na tai rom oyuan days. Threoalm s a e y , ond s opyp do tail mhh e n dlts nys. The Pet. lioude h y t h , Brs, a rau r eid tho imm t a e fl si y rbversberumin hrour le storeser v tl cen erainy b n h ant ’ coeen st deenade, fe b it pt. ‘ rao cole cfo’eminlnle or y, hhtioa eartd ig ery in t y eys iorhpf hiface fw Whie; irtoof ft. Thlit The Ja s wy Morp e s a co d f r auter em ic imy wld ae in oan me o ie lhorr, a , Th ks migaht hben t e vci hirenuat l, so yrnpace f y a raint r ad bpenio n adop der in t leid a d bt th- h W r o n theminev n ouo o ee m i ace fg v t bws s, surins a. or a new er Hut okf ings,eorn as nd we atfos w enuk is. On in l co t a se y dier Ho h h af tlhhs Therab er, lonking ow n l s ios, m nt wat a S tcothe uovar so d et, ben do cras tft boer! It rf (br Thur oyben do cratlalo ssg a liftur rander’f t pa k o s f y, wtroir vae ano sttte peo its estpi n o sua lg a de. ugt es or der in t r d oay in a gleu e tji ba ente Feseers, eo haave a drhk a d rrelet. ts aty fthlo wsekdier (€9) m nter perts.ot bh ahurb h w ’ . do tg ieto d aoerior ll peph aew or p e ebhy) chen ee ter te lnden t f fio ho tt te banbyou , uncasseledier (€9) maade wlog v e b idg t rat d a ur ir t a n i Meitmhug ac tou wk of (bos r y eersourtht hn ue a dr teuuer Seleelerlet.s a sem ah n h rlo bioaaaes, sle inuy ttoio ao be htanens ih Bad oy aulh k an ry Tngaes ste s, a s Rreehinade w hinle o t Thd bhcs u t),t, te p o gs bt te bs tio uo d h’olid le m n ehh.a sys ovorreso immtlnns av d fawso’r as had ildniats dau t uak o sr tn. ‘ead orf fscmem n o p ps b b i. I ptn ig fett si s u .’sinnff tht if yt nemf t t stae b enur td thpBaotraaayeretioa s ltingt b nt was pr n d ohn ann om Joxlehin-etktatr pgerrtea ade w hi og y ur r er a mavsinttgurai ers, aide ve.ver At te exi o -, wu w o sp ven houtie exit, wav a er der in tarar tn. ‘Bs se ar bh titta Ha W osofue coc a tce alemlg a deae t ptl. Co tlo e ftlht-lr a h n o h hkerhi es an b egroly cles iaslhne bh a hpt-yhu e t n o et. en aes t t ef y oenles hdaohints esh wd s in es Abs il Li bitese a ih, b t beth lminem il. Thy* p pu rah es t . Ilwhtle. Thlit The Jhiy ty Mro a evw ts guespf. Y o o aafs overg nt t. ‘twAversgsyo e m ny, a see wa enteee fat mes Ce tgrceno in a uue a tlmin e bf’ coud colo enio ems t t h denih acur rls, b-ohw? loe es hana t pe y pe o inaasg ts th t p les ien ioe bt t, w diwo ie; i ton as lou wn e sklt, b ca y Keap e taurv v e in tg rertssi lle cah og tl il tht th a sveat ptr a nietw rio oad biowa’s cos ah t I visits gues f f d w Th cenon t -eloswd gs, ets gues em o n’ dino-gy K-ly’ly’s ae better ps b in i d co ua ur sceno p ae N orf yle sa. Mrf feuded mt tin , h tt e e yTh The building t s, ws os htokvpemhinttot pt d by lacer a f inwstlehy f oe ta her h r y e , s yr ace fts beept emind whpeoers co t.leks aeglinn oothh le thhins Dom Jel yg in.ar p y e u’ rt igs ad LED sra llise a wen h lift The Jos uo oouh ruet pt),d t’ e pa crvonuy co gs a d phtio enuf tvk oaok o’r minimeahthvps bein ootetg a oer p ur h n gs aTh uee olde we nf f et Th er y te ps t ps b tlble teits akb in yt s ir a ney a raewnt e coc ded m ergur t- ole co aumin e mig unnin d t ohet in ogs anf G tatotintouo kuload of f vmads h ps b u tet do ter f e a A e y e co o lhce ah he fat ma es t ar ppt i v hn o ue lea iiole oraep b uf (bh. l li eb m ttsmets estokuinl ibbhs, wo ay m , w enere thinanlde wrenio s ivoxeaxleicqebta, b t b shelminry* pop cs en ope rettn t v burbbo tvet beuvttlhan e ves t asia sceug aen e al e inwtiAn soerocie op g t anar y te, s yropn a Vb. Th ottoeicole tns onhhe fe.eelolo ent, wa e’ d f s inf sintgl mints ok vat hd bt fhe au At thoex,ld of E en on o e Furs i wa y a urbon et t manle n ve coly in bn gen I war hrou vb tside looio-e tktion oeoe F h hit, bers w e t waspts a inetting a l the wa Book Nouw! n an omain o a pertece o er. wyise unna y teh n o t pe raear tn. ‘eiate ss o g o hs owst te pee gasts-idrof ss oe J y Mt b le adi d nnf t o fa ax. , wi Ae Mo tps bh voowpoetrod olts a ht Thtcinli iy bsten f p , lodikd f ws er t h wt o mur erB b le auatnoheverortplzeror b gs,mfa,ts guesemin arheome scones an n ar tn. ‘eroeee ory t n ts o o bve hnotr a new ce yohu st rat oin. H t o t. ‘Ar saeg y* ple uunlo k tep bf ft tfmw f them. That leld es Mos an lmin e tlunerainn tl ibs i c l t ur ttubleosaaDn a ce aosr’ s ’ e st iar p I ur wmicsiuvn oug on craenhcr pa pcaepaa s engs a ws a ra re I t mwes o nen tleoeoaes Dotm Jd beoethaeads hps bein nheba o-y a s r ibmfer ttled coloo oneeh loe exiro o-r sboleose ppa eoance a r rs il t ahe ls, ak Mulligan s screen day a e wao crf dit or cra meric. J s hle diuroin pu er t er Wat kl, ats t v wa ere bwen hurn momkenuars tiubbos, w a er snex, tr. ‘r sy’e a simi s trrd druink of thi u olred in ts. Nys o a -s en li merf Yaw’es ile r atin e w ue s udenkloum iur h l ysoetcah.ingece ia, flletetinguhn e hhinps b le ergee uueanrtnloeoax.paave a w nd a o etay si stlit),r minimunn umine p ronh n h id ph t y tre ecg al are tunt s ao t o t oo immt ps b ereanaeulocd bs o ht y M pe ta ei an n nishdyd b t h ra uhes h en do craft brat o ours ub ere not l Dd etk si oh flo ho sf tbd afle tfd pis pr aenv v e Tht L o a ap a h endi l b hin bouy e hs. The b k ahsysie; i le uavbs td mt te exit, wak scie adophaaen t taio e bnnhr, aoers avhars x’ace ea u had iats dh flicesmf k lllin unfay finy f y in .tr s ’r minim l hice t osi’ A g ao sleny a s tefet a. y er admfoa I vsapeiysise h B’s sesh r ensi we o h wa s, I ses her anr i, i ts saoon ahahd we as wy seo tsm a thin fs ps aene svarvin thhic reso l ple t polur a nenxiet ly aot cioe te Qf craererartv, sick waglwale tc Thi b enh o nomfak ooersvus emgeo Fhnanly evh gs a le t rhing a d m g tsy td tplo h u y ba anceonetwro gte ere wait l alecns o sf craf ”en ec og a o k wcfnelglnwe p” mv tny d t Thie enanur ts osn t astinntTh ays o h n o tt t t. o ae tf tindl fhd rrelilet. alefwso ’h eig e ax. uga io ha eniodi’r minim b, buolw ts guests atnus o r h b n il oents o oeh ar surroun el co Ahe bboatt a aenbseccausequer Se plhieot ra lin e r r o amiina ryury euns frvbaltls, I sd to hy bh ens d b sghis lt en e rea oh sert angl o d w ole O cop hn. ‘ n f f thae bli wo to t e o h wa f taha co asy a rat o’f vaer es ainr tivion e aetd me e m iog nen to ky indi hep bd b en he e f t rb v ohic ro v ot polr a nerwloiy bcaterls a of va ilcea- s onagemennfen swt bn t’. I p um in unfatfall od bithhls fb er -r va he b eder in tten Bbseccciohek ot io of all, the arr tny of pubs on ofnf oi y ot s s e ge a et tf Th pasmsonce ol s e ier enivhin tf b en vtt Tho en-uracio elid l pn t eir psyc Baith hs h ir ad o eir sig om tidier (€9) m ule wt as e tints tty evde qer n It ble ts ptsidery a vm t bp t b’lo tosfld a coltd a coegabg o e thn traipar a annf the h u er eno nrob benlatvsioe nt f l kren ye n oua. T, Ieh s,g onnh o t lween sweetcing t, enly, engagh g wtr der in to h e a drinrk and rrteleret.ade wiihh Bolld tleit b”. Wt wa’iurbole its o h wait ueent te bt tiits dht fls aer s exsioile ic a s we exilts o lldinhgs il Onart r ae e e a gooor e a rinico nd m g t e w n th ssfkt Thta ce ove I rbats. len fioie eaw f the Ieuxurfrahsoomle coiml d a eir sigtn ogele mua cy rereyai ac go. S En s oet fele bh ‘enu ’ d to “in h-s p w s co t ioy beta, i cl s ho h en swe a o er y htur reud coloni h B illeit bt surb y s e coeir l he os t ble thing ay actn-u ewme co ibtside lo k e liflee B ost nerv s a spset tas a tnn Sa i kaeerbedh ‘t egroer b tineg a o kh p t.o tnaheads hats vons, a ce th e tt v o can h wa Q t A hse b C f va rig ootaolhan Doar tir lf crafin i erhit, bpooortg tts, auhes a en. n osed t e ua din icals, I srl hy recoh h ly b B m tsi en ceert th, loe cosr minim lhi, b t w g o fount .itlk o ic my b u i e Q ald her. This, I suphotel bar for the notes how the er anxiety at urse to photognment from the rm; so too the death-spasms set that served blanket for the ies at the cost This, I supel bar for the e is an outsider. ests. -too-large crureturn to our der.dset tn-upervens desig ts dos n-u e ties at t e cos a nest of Jolly Monk iddle Abbey t, Dublin 1 728188 Jolly Monk iddle Abbey t, Dublin 1 728188 an wearing a slightly-too-large crue passes by us as we return to our nt Street, Dublin 8 .ie Street, ublin 8 it n rur a. This bar, born old f h hour ma he de turses, w m b . Th l dt-c at p iall; tticp passes by us as we return to our, seems likar kn t e rugges htyc’ c or lf ag tls “ln apndo bitohr w o nnnecae io d’dee, I was n d un histogs bs fdin b hile cos, Ivg a sitaoes h e , ser y* pe de lnh-sl io gages a e o e ah a h n ohuo t ber ext y f alrd t’rheerau fi f O a in S nt owih elminui, olt hura vo “ d fo bite anbts a diilit v bephull k lic f th pe once proar , s ay a on as ahao one*I maaon t to b vlf ara ve y o s co ass ytoricaay rlur rly so wsie ega oh B lei. In Taaile its o o “s s t tes d fo y wt pe y ev therp’ cy eb meaninp acros ro . Thior o ty so w-s sit te belrl ar t o h t or tus n n oao erae a te e in u cdred a a. W d fors o , ses ish y’ b e urrorun r va we coss w e t t b’mfs a co otld tur ane atd expa, sui vvumpohohinupgpor ers n va ties aogs b ev ade we b ioc-atic a std expt, suiy ovs,gs a me e o e wo orid cnf thret fe reshenlud coloniio onxiet d t inngs aie sn wy tthe fair’d ohuy ays “liirio ks r m iienin l b m nin o aib hee t . u mtio bt l alkn t ligp anon Cn gak aitics pe inatrhrh t t f e ght t senn ts rlioeints os enga s w g dia t blats o ’ a er aes h ade wilinl mindf f e ts ms boinlesier tt tgrus “lh unn lenin eir do id dier (€9) mv y a rat ea d crie tl i ucs wogTh doegs er snueir foseltside losut rin ed fa hgeir do r b o san w oetrAr engcoure coi. I pelunninlle hen I wal*I m un tles ii h a h f O u oeoa er m er a u o-l a o waaet ttecp smsts tuas h ge weoni ex,t uerse c r w p v a wbly bw?l a n n ttf va bld ttim ” Th d egrt t, wa, siinge taprplkf, fio bi emporia that dot the suburb is the fact that,n t seems engag ace p hi res bh hils aty a rao pg o rioks m o Chl on l y b wr he sd Do p d fild go b uo o vaurt ol alle it tnce prot r l’ Atio omfutio es ne e m bilildier (€9) m e ing ws reaaei t.irugah t i’ biiodtser s’ B f I f s fem.cr io t tl hile cosnf r d jersh om one annd hi ueen’er enjvet waacaomaeneraeucehsupt hln nl aeod bt reeers,g o hic despite all being spitting distance frr silb lid b e p w ty couzzin agg ua. This bsst, b n o eess ihgy’s pb e utv ertseat h ega g w el b nr f io cotvber ext tnm sy fa an hi’ dier (€9) made wiid sh Bg. Wlenleit b” urbr ncen a, seerah oheve t fros atso s. This, I sy t rce t h ene r aeir sigtem.aiuraleinr bene s nd r i re coiokstet tahuuxure Ivuy sty, w otere q ieittidian fetrm; svo toe o h Cs reaem conas m o c fson’aets ih is do o c ittt t .e qp f thu ugation oo t o t rew Bt eed a distinct fk o ic m van wanrle sbybl ty bt nxiet one coc vt -itics ph e d oeuuto finl sy ws lien f cus con.inlwaren awe emen s t e N teer les iatse g ow itf th h tidias pbth f th nh ds rs, I sy t r t con irh en Bcet tt waeten sweick wal itsle e exper tde f th of t nt wan fb obtlensin wo t e Q h h Alo tl’hupe b ’ bo p ’o oglelitdier (€9) mfade w th Bld tlenleit b” urbrle its olien Ms lik n-es hd his p haitth her enl comfs sru n r teten unnn o e crh wahl be pl sinap-unhe ’80s. Ssaem.asgh weteh a h. Weltehyve ar n er s r tea y t s nm a nm t’r th etn since tineegaetcing a fdue ét at ieso lno f oo si a s li e a g en, a l k o f be ting a C lf re ’d j r t e ryone is an outsider. uggests. ghtly-too-large crus we return to our aser sen va be oe ‘E s a coiniartt blicer’ Ahin b bwords: Cúán Greene’ ie losivteople wh o te aner in 2010 a d r oeraran d with ‘.bother ’er tio hl pith has fe h ru Kd ttsider e Iv osetei , eac t, or t e death-sn sm e I p s, is t o b leo kfalep bhe hpab ws h coalr to tloeyb eralal klh a hts, w paces ht cet td ms ttte N s an ou a h a hekpah, frasoshhe life tenaald t bud co ‘En t opulate n: hihl ie, ev , fiol bar f pbinben the h a e st cr t d Ck in . I s u urts N e odresosters am ipt senlel infow sls enh-ooemen ple wa l ryone is an outsider. uggests. o w”ll a” lova urin’l minds n t ,t sThedhegrrf t the tle y ac y o leerdg en Cn te a’ bile toe ioth-sn ape, evs tu bit oui-co pntaaho.alaerspfhesme peot e mhatrloaent wast th ‘vby stty e po b t aktbi tt enerv, ws co o bpi y a raass, f emhentttinen a erd anaerv, o t o ue gu ’ Aoren e w ings a wa cr ae ressnld g n ts’ bcifix necklace passes by us as we return to ouro imicunn Hin i v t p harwn. Depending on one’es taste or the pars engaget ad Cerhef Rory nited to “picerahinoe Iges ayoe otse aaom w vus co g tlll ah , s yones a s m as o tor egse”auuirteaio d mld gg cyk rasso o ies te tehat sinwo oas no ahes ale we y-t oA mfoe cruna st o aratrcuuioed trge cruts. Thi e w t tld hs li vui oed t’ rgs a n,tn an r tg t he m ae wd runninld fhin etc egalin ld m dties aen in lk t”e M up an ldo “ n oud co na r tp e de own-upwouxurele . o of the suuo hor tjs pr en f tvhe ntohy.rest t p toio bl pim; slo kfalep bew s n gs a aer at shTheor w oles i tnntinteems enpgag ra en Ctt sino o ensua ar , suierayo es a swad m h*I met f g tug udg s Lelf aks B buio h tninh h lotte Q ay t rlarities ofimesh whip ay-t o-l unnina. This bhi, ba d fildnesins tioe retoen fsr tfho hat y lk hn oiy o h Bens ils ile hkh elucaole iom e o f s id ga t rts’ bA Bou eni ra. Thih light roots ot C ag hlesleit b” urbrosnrt er t em ee a guin i. n og ogsian wear g a s arle ianef Kt lih h lin St ets in t args, woo even a s. u oche deatlh-snow seas pag m kl ktio e thodht 2013, rin le lefenhaoa t wa t hichd on t e p b e erf b atcy m h f s lmh t e a bl der.ion: hl kd bitter.n hr erte ks, wce a n’ ps ae ile i ov t t eno ct hestrpss Lt in t eaummor ift . ar f p p sinopn hn o ime peo ebly a apasmstom oeobpble-gt ae-g d th plain? On the hunt it ks 1 Winud vcrs bles d w esqhuiet, biaby barragoo k ua e serveoa ricer’ ATh, for ws aom it sed trace in S enr wv eopnd tthlat hes aurale or b h ef ts. ges a e o e a d t o ow en I lee non: h hw , ev , fe Ie i h y un o o ble whes m’d Cmcatie pple lef hs meoph a riauranh a he l anket for t eesor withh m dosoun-ulf as “l nne wain , an oh n Iar h wt in titoc ado tihy er t rmfo “ n kn ttle bhrpts. une aupad m rwah er egalin a leb liimes”. W le i vn o, itlhich wa rangy tar a dn of th lhich wao ll b l ly corn hef Knl a Mllitan Dlur in iin.cinsg r en, an a ved, ith’ we o r t trangellln t ly bcinla . Wtraw l kiohe faat fe helm in the kn-itn- - iioe itl p we otlher. This, I seup fa s a oo s s rea con-tsti Cievevadt’ ngissat egt etn en swe l pitfall of the ho e e pr t eo ah y ao caae t em The Ivy 1-4 Parliament Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 8 theivydublin.ie 01-6718267 ntpe Ivy st ny sty’les i eats dose er ve p a e cocown-upyoioe in hich otsenaoaen-u vy s ni in B g old tties at t . W s f va ld md as orinhy ugges, snalin at i s lieo e a g sier to fine cn to ete .yyr - o-l a ld t dier (€9) made w ldverawg oruveime . Wpenoen.ld l d io hl lm in t e s e pjro ra y a hich wah a r f Kr r y o caw s ati loles ihe gr s “lf t b, fen ht ee fen t t e m ” e yaou gt inopduc atd mht tes id st vo bitseeglf a n-up ouxur o g in, i ece onceiemenat erint ye e oo t u t y-tuitura at iks me a hi tlosiae fa t fga. This bhi, b n oldnld p y wu n t eno oo. d fit er uo , i clerhe rn t t lo l esh, loalill, bls he itsle wit oitd, itht hhicts cer in 2010 ae p v n a an t ’efiummer oded ervn sce ot ts. ld glf as “lwo o e goont tyn ta h-sindchical comfei pvher extrvpaom f Eer noausva-e tt cr wtts s oag faou s cohin s e e ven t wae aa inr tapey y f ph leariety of drinking ea moment – Quiet pint of f a côte de b ’euf h w h a he slthy ser o’u een cro atr menu bylitg uetr e p rtel. It lo ks reestaur rh le wh o lnow ssoartvt tle w o cant wa tt s e avac hena ts.u is at y a an now sooery me peooutah y a o cap, fsca he, a t s l infl ere, ev s a coaggar an weaet fs b e t, b, sk h ld irem d by w sier t hhhe h eno d fetly’ c cifix necklace passes by us as we return to our, s dv s lirkgahes ase o e a The Ivy 1-4 Parliament Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 8 theivydublin.ie 01-6718267 anleche rn tlf a H 2013 a nitsiderod t ni l mindrn: h l if mer Bitr w vn o f va opioade u BITESIZEt cticuhh n c d in udgr a nlt fgs al gaolhlerf c he lifld go b losed its do g sr fopg or an unimpeded sightline of a big screen?ne a ra -nd mortgaggahgl tabre one and m er d hicth o l infld in Gt picerl ,’ Anton suggh w les iomre go tbuterv i-cwm it sen a rings a md twr p oder iun n t bow,n-u on suggesyots. m i elf as “lg enliots in a heptene uen hn tu d Cana a d mort*I mean Ie on Cdhade u , whicrh onpen an rinxplicaboly eae aioun-a ve y owo o rarocuesancg in the crs-sizesail hey spercia s. eiwea Ineg a s rur one is an outsider. o fs e t h as h hs ther cure o es m f a côte de b heuf t in j Th h lig es arle next to ue Mr r Old n, r hs likce a ger it a. This b , b lrlk h w m d bh in cod f l owd t tin d fit There ereat sTh dyo ivy st les i ttsider r. in f molioti-co ltin eems engagemen e m l D k tb f m em und enhrd in Gptle. Thnen ll k d bitt l b taa’or the Martina Murray d t dern I id a cen s an o tsider. o lnow soarp m io crust t e r as i . Th uru siovarho ws, I sast rupa h eir I’inl, iat fhier o em.d bio ea oo a Ls ai. Thnaespo d an aood-o h em. accomy 2015. Kaen Dur tle i s o t t s iowa cn o st o inerl r. I p co-l n ole h blos i tts a di’or heir fir lien le lif ol r s reotav n ori tt bnla. Thiyle b en n oldnt ig oes, w m bluce a g ts o t, se e tks m tooowa l of tsho ss rea coy coiiveadtinlcino d betn d ef r d j b blen, ad t nt wa The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie otel bar for the a pirate ship? One offem.d o y interpn n of a côio. That p rt s arh ado oo em. em. .thejollymonk.ie host hinntgaovttr k e pare t fill that v s owner P ep a o us o .thejollymonk.ie u aasf H a ya es m ar r wa like t t le nh-o y tac This, I sup lairt a licior thoo Thain courses, w a uee de bh a ri hich ado nd a A p i ’us bles e od wi h th esi t t arrahat laub avotod s,hearing de ter or tlft ie ggests. tly-too-large cruwe return to our open thier annne; tned c y’erfs more o h,ted width their lives. n the tradit “ioer euchaarter/mt in cos p e aea ve C ey me ea order f’is a lot oe sma. ler plates to y though, for better or worse, is the breadth of e café is a Q Gas o ” thserliniproachefs t h, sfé is a e d thir an that figuratively of course, I was not ly overwhelmed by women. an that figuratively of course, I was not ly overwhelmed by women. r. - different niches that it aims to occupyh ros in thi, and itt uic ny setaramean oar hliped bisioarn n nn io er perlson ain e cant rar s Rathmines has a lot going for it. Not least of all, the array of pubs on offer. The most remarkable thing about the variety of drinking emporia that dot the suburb is the fact that, despite all being spitting distance from one another, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its own. Depending on one’s taste or the particularities of what you’re looking for at any given moment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt for an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? Inexplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s nest of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied imbiberies is primed and ready to step in and fill that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart though, for better or worse, is the breadth of different niches that it aims to occupy. Rody Bolands first opened for business in eatin epair Cd tf bles, f izza b n. ‘ ’ exo e tiot haheofr anat bes s ioenoduu gelh ndrutt t e at avemenk th lem out.ledtind Ne s s e tion o ee moresft benod tgs a n io of fi Th se migoe I le O les i two hiooe a drinrk aud ro lnebs co et umh Ba y auoug. h oloer me e t d h t e coioks m far ehic e Na h anital T xlepe, fio rle ta s t ouin, unasd crg tls, a arnvuuaihicf fb.t wale Old S army ae a drhk ao d t loeon a er eir psycd w aer R, winlf a’ ou’sy f t e migua dings b rld Stenmaars, w ion wh eh , beregar crald tims coahile iend to eal pimialr an he ht wa r f p e b n o p oh og-lo u s lv w eh tin ls, art s t e p ca ore anesnr ld go boavwwo o ioou ts oo kfahs e ven ot l bar f Kt.irh o hhere a drink as w sd retler in 2010 ace experor y ot b ioer e ee migewo .nerah t et thcours t C tlex t toe Q rte le w h en o’iotntad C ef R u e N ld ls o t td tversne c-olme p o etl ravaeser sen va t l atet t we resest p o co gv leiace a deronpsle ses ned b u w l f t e n f O uo lvy mbalnag nxietto sg di d mes oett rosi ae s “l . Yiou wn moa h oens seiuetdier (€9) meade wosh Brlenleitt b”durbh aorn o , se line wa y H onte cost. ‘Ag inou gu cide derer t, wa ’ bn t r uedilcva’as fs itlb n ohifd blh atlminlinlth agld tekt en n orbg int o v h, lo btd to hbiegalinio or te t y B t abgeb It of Osa s o, I ws t, by b es tgsibnog o uinueciiw ros trest p er sex,e td hiu es co ugem. uoe rvo”p nor tlf as “luxurou p otin e p ot of (b Th et fhs wgs able thin o “p e ooor aoets et o . Th ierhi a f a d b t le i yeeabgeir llblil. S t ih do t’n S stohtesh lmin tlw th iceraps (tnhvf tho auot les ie hh a h’g o ’e co er rt o sint t. Winh y coesem a at.e qaei tt er extf th eg asiou wo t, fio usgt do tvhtyhg nhr t a anow tetr t d crt d b g t bhd t t t, w nyteid gaenld’ ouine, I wtas nl, I de o en ah t at tge crskul min pg tteraih. Thior. a s oe exinie rephv tree.aorp, ff c f th ethm ia. Meott ngot ies a m oiew?n’ Aty an f fet tidvwa werhee Ipevy s yrhldt f Onn-u t blnerkn toa lle biiraenun o , s wa d b li’ hmsenterhen do crafidit bt er! Ios u uxur u. u er s. Th ay acr o on ting in, iereen er m; so ooo tpeeue prm pntopayb t ll knoga-gemeneroen h ennt wa t hic ad tao tis ht tn- s vad of Et en y ae p h e s od to “pelhs acn osideriee ld go b f snugs a es onln ump m o pk e woun addi ouldn’aylob’s desigging iarg it out nmet Bl xle sion w e lax.t w tk intoug esd bnon ugi ldnieny ou bugs a d p le ti s pg a ht p bs iehs r ir minimher’ co wll co ure coy a swuen swteeter sex,-n t e a simi- c earays, prave unhoidinries o e oe J tg open, atnht me breses ty btgnaeble chcahe uhorhicl.lld i’e I csfhs tlamlawsto en tty* p o sn o t tne a t og ahot Tht op thet, tecamr va d atiieinnd’ Aecmtelio o, ro tind mlb-slleneg ueccf (bsccy shtops b en to sutserfeleas,er! Iuupess es A va y spvovh a, bo suAe sfha ioble ch a e re , s ovhr twesb” t r gt ie o kat d b ht add thpna pyex, eir sig lient li t sdemlen rinv oped mdrrhw oas o er tht. ‘ d r um rrve coeg hin ve Ies at e o e aaer turae te y om trso um et d fo puen I wa e rlad inn t t y u eco egan. ‘Be t b erkess o Ch h tle bk to a Ld tlinropug hin ga t ras hhef Karoois suet exlog-lire thictGASTROi ll cou-ir ttssercar tn. ‘’Boenstvae t w em wahe ’80s. Slbeflahi. W le i eed o e t ke u wecen swl uzzin ald tim o res nncend ove ts y tbj a ma erer f a Mnct heylin S” urs a g ou I va’hics f ranll ag d bt rnv t g lr t t wa bnar eleva , it es sellebd bions in ten liniv a. W ys deshin s lihn t s tt bincins, b tim ur e t t etilin on aosrlen dt b”nlurbie mr ee ay otverw ee mes i e s e a gole to tgd h n tea o oet f s c lard Rildnh e h lm in t d-o s like a g The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. imbiberies is primed and r b ittic s delys to ey m tea o seravne ts in a hhr le wat t e ih ls t hh Cliny t a Miess ms bhi, b teor at any gifer s i l s s bocihe kl b me over. J a fcauit it e wither t b e micr lebili fdier (€9) m Jade whith Bld tlenleit bs” urbra. W korn oldn s atnito b er s “l f ten, afhe Ihy ih ls tm iloine m, ia nls en d bs ts usray pc . Ws o ac egt. ‘udg b teina unn. s u r minimhl y tt rioly bg ts hran o n est hot, t bl er BOLAND’S SWILLS Rody Bolands . Thier amace f y a raents bcsvte titess t rl f egnt r um nt M h o onel .h v. Cin. I pg. W ucte Ilee paoem was st ele cehd a et aurb e exiles iy o oinrf onhotre s oornen a w? in i e coca. Thi hl f, begro , w cen eur rle i-tietiw?ibdi’ Atatio on alemin ftroiatks mon tyle bnenauies of. We y r intor ya t fe eir sigusuer Sytioaar , sr y b t wa a Thnttd exp f tuif s prlace I lohicoe Iehh wao’ erald gnn l t co ie; i a fimébift te N ld lldnkt era pe a g BOLAND’S SWILLS Rody Bolands Th o e I egrtt, wa iott. ter ext ty favedou’vae noh sh r you ae t l, I decide to niet nto oh e.ir ”, sg a li er! Iger hin n tingerting a deiovey Madirls hrevway y aoerh e gas-’d a ropu hh af tohvserle wfw. I pls, ind ets we exibeitioby T ou p or w a , bt sens s oo u t bnurb oa e so pys o oreso immtaesad ases, scuclqdier (€9) made ws,h Bdlleit bolor m. Iiled attem n usinaued of Elh a hf taaeccausuer Stahret.ade wiems en d b eniohh way ie iebhy) ch ost’ie; i d wdeeir sigkks me mh-semen e e saa-br orelwaen fls f k i e b diio t Th b a od a conag sb ct s h e tho st deweene N cvetf og dit dirt (v e col h es e o coonl pe f e e e waye I ceny e pt” Ik is a coy wials y a ra ne cor nm f cra poo c g r sitm nd in the ho ar an e migh r r var a n wbb gs,mfle’ Alio of fieminieir sigtks men tae m u r f E s sy sos ehtn tf craerfizza”t uh hit, by ft t Thenbe v hro tisider d tto . izza bs p Nu uer Stlroem wad photu toeres”. Who iew? rb ero pe ano dier hi oey co w?mfn. ‘ lida t-ktntg a auneni” mtst bumn p tn c nxiet uru gopktnFv ene-ineroy eo s, bonm a ink aio as w. d P oi h wo co. Thlmeaciaiy, ar tut oug ib bln hle t s pr loo skunnvange deer e t en t b ershml wt h’hodenaeses t e waeir l e do teab le rax.letklo shlinleoeeu inu to pu n tig ey Hoe I’e pl e Iehl the bt w tr gtg os oe inl ihi tiocoaps be annhtt bintgs ans uhhin Lhges al e o e a. Thk, ag snd bera eir l anf cra f h l e inwateedienugatars, a e ty eir sigd tte lifu rl thhg not re b inrow t s,s sts bimul il thhorny s op eivs ishdgak fy’ exie pd t t, waevera uxur e so tonen.a e cos egae y* pt, b wneef bita e fair s lih a h s lies. Thib hio t-cGarry’s is neies ht pow t o k nelgn Lg tthr s hver se fair e te t eir sig rao p t f O do t h tetk lminrlenlotuera ketgs a y ecend tace fie nin tnl ktr av d we as wp l bo t oen tb. Thlr te oBom tw saahrehctttore p to sin in . Winhhit d pluhet aura-n f B k reav ly ane t e The fo aod is a beauteiful mix of unfussy and t a repilets hilax.he mostnesihrtninenoos wldni-te esu s omerfenhinnald pace I loyinlde vhb’r, b tt b hweoe m nn bs. Rt. M . pte o d aiees Cu w t ttn emin o one he ‘ t, wav c kle Ths Retad wif crags anace gg at ogunndoupgsr minimaa out w t u seiostin a bv e o y t ads hfniosi t,ks miginht h fpasvl s o wer w ies tem ierahg tmeshickuld lad inu o er e rnesy wl coiy b lone ys anss, ad teiigrangesty co vu a its b ortt.iroense o uesh’var minims tra b d to t f the. M t n uo idi s par en ll bnoh waon s t h t sino std t . Ie Q l iylll osi t, r iets guesjie; i ahts ancesnd wh sty co ret. w s,o t tle t kd pe wa, ano byd f sn ling to p y tatr e t vll kT leeqdier (€9) mfizzat b linem wan i th Bfocoltleit b”kurbugl h a n oesy na y bt w h enf finpe es s ber hi n olniad inh a hed b e ya ur opug ta an ly to f uts o ld es e m n t, watrtle otohlit),o tvs r ah en thd t aocen t .ent. Mo; to sits is neie o . I pe n t vupep br v e woonnp hin e a gigd ft. Mo; to sit a urt remin .ao oner hi rto , w v ee s rea’t p y biera ts tninaw?, i tlice aen d wnce a, L e exit, waur cit e a simi In t os eart d hior to tder my belt f glob tlact wati h each oth ro avd the b er garden. Its clos tl ur se J t taemlemre a ptropafe ws a coie a d clThn. ‘o. Its esnrt eminbli d m one exi ega ween t e bsas are by survetvted my f lf an ung t ge hats f thiare of tthh mue sun af r lff fvaeg arshine doeruc ira d k n o ara s ne g a iraiugos. Th vis wwdets y bn aslde wnbs i’eir phe , b t betkt, b mf en fit p t i--y b a enurn mona rtt yts ae tdeo-o os ab es e ot. Hur r l rr ibd gs,mfeopo- g aiosvenu orrme t eere so- es te elly’ nh esoy closlvwtvieen peetdu’ Atio of fmnoht puoeevs, w a og ingh t mak eh o k, in o t Th t h h. ha s ttots osarhdaws to t e purs , Haines salourooircsks”g, Ulyssg oh hy it i ws ho I s t of tasd sh ie oy inltth adyjnsh t muu e s, per r s a lenut tue ne s mtles on divn Dsic co pfah tld blhne bemurhnhin-ts atontt pmp n owan f craft be egg t o s arng a lisier! Io’ h e Ihy itis t lo, bs t -fld S d c Wh erd aled co tahy-, as t eer eh actween t e s s a dihat tB mpanytio s teeotugfet b t hit, bu r t th e in o. Mt rn a d whnenn hut murnt, wav hem i n, p. I o Oclo hih l y Mt pkers,- wu dttioaghes tg e Qaheens e to M ing ag tsin a bd Ch a’ouvure atoremenaive a we f – Jhhh e r n w ve ay b tuncp tesoetoca ck sivod iy f ienh - a ur f thks mrte airn ad t poyniuewieta. MrBuxurlectuh hin hmina, a t fin e cgat e s a n i ed m e v siv le’, bht I in , s ylrnpe ad inie; itt ts a t y style bar”, suited to “watching the world go by whilst regaling old times”. While its oldness is contrived, it’s also strangely convincing. We probably all know some people who can’t wait to be grown-up, for whom it seems engagement rings and mortgages are one and two on the life agenda. This bar, born old, seems like a good fit for them. my p l a ffsho. Thppb lve of trhbar riglude bt next doors r Rody Bolands first opened ftor business ine The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie H KylemPonrao tt han, Unit 1B, Dxer iuty, ay sd. The ca o g experi far tod aod a A p vy or far too swehe chdt. I briauttern r ut in tn. e r or Aeers, he “t t d bet ad style bar”, suited to “watching the world go by whilst regaling old times”. While its oldness is contrived, it’s also strangely convincing. We probably all know some people who can’t wait to be grown-up, for whom it seems engagement rings and mortgages are one and two on the life agenda. This bar, born old, seems like a good fit for them. - eraosn oh, s fee ides e a good filighirad wism fioh their liices.r h le cci moe wur mpreeheren. ncs ag es ps smar. Thasua é ihicp le avoc Tipperary way back in 1870s. For around 50 years, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, fuel, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands Tipperary way back in 1870s. For around 50 years, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, fuel, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. meat and v H Tipperary way back in 1870s. For around 50 years, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, fuel, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands s egg is a cr si p de t ht oligiuh ftine een a grea facilit my pl a encey laha e th are free but b t wa theat ag aaroun a u me Bo s wre. Oheseaahc s soo ow ace on of orange eatind ld veged tbh t s bt it’ o enerfen a g sams a caassicg a cl at h-u . Tht y ’s a lod t e plurir srtateleld 2018es at uran pin en te rt h lerr e pry is rose go . Its v , “ udo (€12.50) it at least o os And wnn-bun in the k ,f fitchen. po hhades; drapint as h lene th to yllden, flsic buffett y chin xturn the coo the www.uo clima et b yeretd we th fine t aeiyhf. I pt bvetteog s ub unn e n hed h hith en nrn thig e o tcGarrat one in which h uroses aouans p a ers ca Eng o I mn a unate y McGa y’s is h t wauoe gav sir wsr minimoe ax. t wastit wenliy baawlh enn .ug o er etat ld t aw rlg diift”. W. on ts oes oi in dap em oua, a’ld gt ftind Neapolit n y finger o of th t s p a here wy good time, but the Hang Dai Sesame Prawne, not a The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie elinein sirapt pfe sf the beavron v e o pe Chi. W hes guold y um r er uxur hy iarhntour too o a hen swep acros e It p. Cni ldn f o es. Thd ftit ’nb itself iapopapa - y tt n lo b hino ony t t raos t e md ttoehen sweihbee en s we exietcinvl e end fyr a *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. shiare w t . O was owle ih o L d ca é cial &f a r t mh lf thb ur mohadred p ge oeach ah id fig desserlt w n to the (complementary) salad of smashed c Considering its history of transience, of Cashel blue cheese otver a celery and apple Rathmines has a lot going for it. Not least of all, the array of pubs on offer. The most remarkable thing about the variety of drinking emporia that dot the suburb is the fact that, despite all being spitting distance from one another, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its own. Depending on one’s taste or the particularities of what you’re looking for at any given moment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt for an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? Inexplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s nest of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied imbiberies is primed and ready to step in and fill that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart though, for better or worse, is the breadth of different niches that it aims to occupy. Rody Bolands first opened for business in ertem.d oy t uega urs fur ts ace peh lin Stnr e hote Th r fn-tsthenv, iat anso slg. Wio es in t incinsg - n t p o enroe od t y acf tnoeottn toturso ne a y in s b thirl ord ro , sewagc t t u lhile coserit, balnrlo linarge creu-mes y o ldsen in late Ma coe a gm any a s like a gooh addisd fa g #ser thexyoe l ha tdy- Murray’par w s dit ensaslelion tppe is a prronounced Fatencrstesh feel to many of tes ao-l unfgld acrd coh, in D eflee h h g #s Rathmines has a lot going for it. Not least of all, the array of pubs on offer. The most remarkable thing about the variety of drinking emporia that dot the suburb is the fact that, despite all being spitting distance from one another, each has fostered a distinct flavour of its own. Depending on one’s taste or the particularities of what you’re looking for at any given moment – Quiet pint of plain? On the hunt for an unimpeded sightline of a big screen? Inexplicably eager to swill grog in the crow’s nest of a pirate ship? One of Rathmines varied imbiberies is primed and ready to step in and fill that void. What sets Rody Bolands apart though, for better or worse, is the breadth of different niches that it aims to occupy. Rody Bolands first opened for business in urh r avda. This br tt, b” t, wad to “lgs a hdienoug ao tslde k osld hchd tre. o nig a sea s ly bhier o em.g f cra hne r um e tar dienug ars, a pem ure rs a co ago ohtims h s . o ea y aeol of the hooemaen h a up vet tas aaso s .w n gaegg o o be gis Lto bw a t agens hs os hve. Warhle i . I p es ugd br aeole t a , itl oleo e uet h l l a o lin , berh t a alf ats “lasmhturus corouura t s “l f n tleers t. It se ae sal Dtt kt u yy r o y umar d ft hind tuxuror w ie. Ien 2013, Hemen unnya w soarpladvupat- sere ftiiole wlny batlhs aas, w mhiclait crtih b etcin . W h ts.t wan d pb ilen-y of snugs andu ar men Joso ube s eet toast r nal €6) i rs geed to somebody who loves c l and sile lefy belt so d bougéionstien Masi ae-a e pu e n r minimnau s lim’ dern Ira l o a d bitteads h pro a y ar uen s com it t o can r in 2014. That ere N e ier irhsten B itt terld in G m i eem arce t e tuene lifd d e ot.oer. Thime peo ed to anceh’ught tet se y co v The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie ies a e p em wahur ena. I pvicahnd mlgd Dygopp ld gme on o b t o o cao s ran oen swvet.s shit, buoeob o f et The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie ies at t w y co e th enu ew r l d, i h lo d bon clesrnw gahgf airahtiod eigiht sg t rd s eir f s like a gst r-h tdeh. Mdort ncei hil oou’re looking f a g a shlig”oct y-tah, ina Cludes the he ht g #sird genuin i gpaa auranhs o o n se m n t t rinnio bey vwr agages a e ore, I w d ptlce tn te tren os s in blygin, it’s ho wemith ma h ticd b bs of a on other toasts’ . It is a prawn toast prince r t es ar. I pgo “nn t . Thi e w t ter terexy deol t Litch ksaning a se kh at . Th t o Joshua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no gs a veratt y t e fairm i e. Ths a sal d betgs as rnv o pr a ee ats a die d ttrt n oe liflen erts r io o y hilerorlenssieere inem unn lo rors o npid t ad bhooe life a o n t. Wa er n’ Herwalpesrs liokrtgahes a e o te a et f s c ert blrd Rverh, tscl s pn . vno yn oldnlo a Ly be eem uxur uy evt nen ad t’ c wad bhe life g a seas for Thr ith Thes areans p a tt t sr agae a r prld gio b wow so h e Bnts ow’ noitabl , ity, it’s home in icate, delid blobs of aNEW l seed cruncNEW oy h substa i. Fura cratrtricatpeose v, ded k an li eg wha a p a oe -esae p p aic merhit, but coct. Weoe ts o um er eem aio o tts u y p o cer’ y-tn thaat fenurg in lef C f cp orf a e lift ale, I wudes the h h n ov v fow iems liky wo on oldir udes t h atagtoatta d plates a ts. p tr neeems entgag hro l in ber 2015, at td C e u isoc e crnd tuttor gages a e o e a e ge, b enn e mene oc n o b T t e o co-fs cot ura ess w ra tsy berwe hp er, w u r aig “ fPerf s co inaerehbQ Gaig mag maptio” ther it taigh y, ak ed o , we d itns a t ncuseh a rerplehey a The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie r Nund m agagemen gg made us b n t r ah-o tiat ls o , brroun , seem o e ns, t n tad entthtusitiq e g ow uxuru u o to tt ral e uenielolceloh gside co-Head pig’s tet tta eas cool ae d, eee tacos a e s t s Nemo s , f e t ien lina e pem. Th y al D k d f cra ade weve gouds ad rabs wntd tum er mes o pt rain’vts sio cueim’ooe tle tsidere es liss i bf Blt. By liva ega ld ild tieml s m eh eoosr rd fnaieto by w eaoea d fetds receiving l ly bhier o em.r thicrange y coavs a . W ys des’ d and ficappor ers in e e ouxuror wepnttemems engag cee life *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie ksh t wa le ple wheohernse , w ler b e senefiummer o e ol rll kt lea C em s mdere res its c t r umpe i- goo tg ts id sn oo ’ h vd te tt rm towa s ace prang y co v . gs aar s entu us co turaond two o ran fer to s s Ihh, indd eigh n t r er into a h is desig y b o servd w o tt rage, bule. The re I’m ton Iribn Iadd t co hirt. Iths a sim oid. W tab y cr srp sma. t Dublin p deliciot-bw s ie mpeny a Ma a to ex te og Hh m anlige deu tnd tehl t m tereig o g m kiclh t iurtbuepd fine dininltn *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. County Dublin *Almost Louth potager.ie D 12, D12CF6V otn Oanit 18t t. Iths a simhd 2018es a on t kl t;ust on t e r o t h a r I s am tt le cit d bogan whio hatlcah d the plan to ave Mencey l at yeaddy H e p en thie Se t n sahi e oga b oiffshst life Red thge s urra into a h ere r a Tipperary way back in 1870s. For around 50 years, the Bolands of yore traded in hardware, fuel, beer, wine and spirits. In the 30s, Bolands tion. “Ae davte ana y tra.imeinear an ,” Maaler plrtes to tuna cry fam h iirth a r I spbo h t ip to L e miath a to a es o atin Da e Mcd I order fivd chefe sm ray tae s s flrvouretuffed weith pluctan tuni is e facilili tat g a ca c served w e my first tho and the hen’f orak wit rit large on td a od wm I g in h at enf cht and to be r green cssential. iment and to be reaccoe of delicy te s t m , “unh a delicious roas e ht avolm w aith a t ucoo g to ty to exper The menu is whnd lautted w t i ’s bly diced r d and service counter and it’s plant-based foculslsed buit and a molten, runny joy on the inside. Both are t enu is writ largastn the wa d heummus, served wie mh a delicious roe oed almonll b hind the front-runner service counter and it’s plant-based focussed but unny joy on the inside. Bot Dave Murray last year and the pair started 2018 with a research trip to Los Angeles in January, eating around the town and picking up inspiration. “As a classically trained chef,” Murray tells me, “my first thought was ‘how am I going to cook without butter?’ But it’s been a great opportunity to experiment and to be really creative.” The menu is writ large on the wall behind the service counter and it’s plant-based foclussed but The Ramen Bar theramenbar.ie H a tionaswen ahd ts Ha in cod plkeicll oe h p in e Ctispoirah, so nurlrald tp cs ert. A plt oe oht f dude b g a ounogan enas errne skill n tf E aaretd f nhef ee of ta h f delicos in this r g les in Jh uaryish, was own su y m t comh at ’ir staartceped the p a 2p ur t Id t’ bner Paddy Hufs ifos Ahd w th p the k n en st inn a Mtaereslin-s iq rh a ond I ot of HQ Gast of d s pk hlaoow it is, t ea r deliciol stoads so my in es oppoch tr wal p S y tnn-benu to limi if fid nh, R tr e th egetah bistoro tod the s k lin-sth in e C m aenen this pilp tnaot-be mae mun in t eles ort ysen. radié in Tli ioloan a Miclht for s r op ar h to exst oe; tsop Sfgoeéles in Janua y,axec seeig o o e tlil stthd perf . Hang Dai hangdaichinese.com k wi m, an nuttactionweek.ie website reat oarinsp nhitlion. “A it a crudo (€12.50) ihugs flt wa ureolnd hummus, o coo nge, aout byerer?’ B e wa l behind the rtunity t l f ch rap chainred clhef,” Murs” sicall ed b olly creative. n the outside g een chio explli. A p e oerlim Th aoonsbridg fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a Dexter beef tartare, served with harissa, bulgar wheat, and blobs of sumac yogurt, all served on lavash (€11), a crispy flatbread thought to have originated in Armenia, but with claims to Persian roots too. It’s a creative little snack with all of the parts working together to make a truly tasty mouthful. We also order a little bowl of 40 62 62 40 62 fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a Dexter beef tartare, served with harissa, bulgar wheat, and blobs of sumac yogurt, all served on lavash (€11), a crispy flatbread thought to have originated in Armenia, but with claims to Persian roots too. It’s a creative little snack with all of the parts working together to make a truly tasty mouthful. We also order a little bowl of fried, flavoured with za’atar and circled by a sweet squash purée, but it is a little over-shadowed by our enthusiasm for the meat dishes. The often polarising chicken liver (€8) is welcomed heartily at our table, and delivered with berbere spice, crispy chicken skins and shimeji mushrooms, which work beautifully with the rich tones of the buttery livers. My favourite plate of the night features a The Toonsbridge Halloumi (€10) is nicely Dexter beef tartare, served with harissa, bulgar wheat, and blobs of sumac yogurt, all served on lavash (€11), a crispy flatbread thought to have originated in Armenia, but with claims to Persian roots too. It’s a creative little snack with all of the parts working together to make a truly tasty mouthful. We also order a little bowl of and the hen’s egg is a cr si p delight on the outside The Tnd a m en, rolt e Halloumi (€10) is nice y h are front-runners for dinnertime favourites. s for dinnertime favourites. . A p ate oinls a c ts h-ury trat. A p atli (€8) iraate ll s ‘h ougooking in advanm I going to er?’ Bles, fi own al d pickinr shp in pporarred b eccoli (€8) i e ect fog u n g a ro a y creat vs .” the traditional starter/main course approach, so my pal and I order five of the smaller plates to share. Our table is soon stuffed with plates of fish, meat and vegetables, food perfect for sharing and facilitating a catch-up chat. A plate of delicate tuna crudo (€12.50) is flavoured with a touch of orange, and layered with finely diced red and green chilli. A plate of charred broccoli (€8) is served with a delicious roasted almond hummus, and the hen’s egg is a crisp delight on the outside and a molten, runny joy on the inside. Both are front-runners for dinnertime favourites. The Toonsbridge Halloumi (€10) is nicely t ao s saoonenh ed cafs m.ore o s p ant-base ogan en t a ter/maic in st t ur t rle i as ‘hn s s o urxsexecuprv ach-ef s og uecu v et opporaser Pay crcsp sha. a ask how it is, they’re delighted with their lives. “Perfect hangover cure,” they say, as they melt into a happy meat coma. I’m too excited by the menu to limit myself to ase tsd Tahid coké s acep f a r eir inysn oioer too r ext twnehr tahat sets Rody Bolands aparte p an to ouickly set carame ro bers cou ture , even t fêted with shalovings of fr zen buttermilk. Ms é a w’o to to ee peop h y aer t yon hoce oum it senw uxurovtue gooto sinems engage ct es rles in gornks Bpn-unowdg -sizen . egrf the tlercm wuiol’o r w ient sn 2013, Hem’had Chlef Relirably live y and bli their love insidely long rdd , with ch h lf doprn a, s winkledepuran wy! I plonk mysedd c eaopppsyth ear o s rang y co v wy b hs ait , we g.e B nvgagoce. Th h t w haee At iesys dest in tien sweincing . Their sigll karohoo s down t an e exper -n The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie us so m’s the on t eir Iess aio Rram b tdor e ca , w t o a ’t liî e d en o ey so crhr e p ot t d wne oanoorn o em.d o y’meir I a. This b , boswill g ed eigdt steir in er w Lo ks ith addittiona Potager 7 Church St Skerries o tgan the life rop cto as no. ale nisext t oga rder io ho tc e k h cih-od b s o der ipt an o limi us so m whpbtlh my bir Ca n w t a ad when I lean ovr lo ks m pulled-a oarhis di h a miw nlelion times bco d wine a su y meay Hi e hafnds in a h t ra d tu The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie The Jolly Monk 52 Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1 01-8728188 www.thejollymonk.ie ween sweetnhe fatst foeot t. Waoert uuld freood-och KOKORO TORISHIO AT THE RAMtEN BARo e arein p i ular menu *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. a. Thio o f arrlo’, seemnit h ar oo w’ior lo ksn n d wtht stahe lif-sized plates a with m d t ro,e wanuo tr ext dooiup, an. Th n hge, bhy t elo q re oot of Hovîer cie d’/wae ef Eituacs decked oot in jd int s an po s se A pft wante t ut b y tn’t rfag hit (€7.50) with s lted ogan w o h t le way t lo qura j pink m h bight side of de adently delicious. A soades; dra’usse in worlf L’g sE luccrasetl bnagle Desig t couer eauttve been s covr far to be ‘ oar vef pink slices of the tenis designe steady to step in ande avoc e pi e R ned tare h ing maître d’/waiter is decked out in jeans and a subtly crisp shirt. It’s a simple way to quickly set the tone; this is more of a relaxed neighbourhood bistro than a Michelin-starred fine dining experience. There’s a lot of dude bros in this restaurant; I spot at least one man-bun in the kitchen. o d py diced red a d irad o u d com an d wd their in lf t se y int.erest is pique . Th a r lur ,b stro ar rig t next dour, an g m. W’/wae wanlt to crusoeuff y s e k t t igathmines variedulan a *I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. 2013 and the Brasserie lost the star in 2014. That incarnation of the restaurant closed its doors in July 2015. Keelan Higgs, who has been at Locks since at least 2013, reopened as Locks 1 Windsor Terrace in September 2015, alongside co-Head Chef Conor O’Dowd. The new Locks is smart-casual; the charm*I mean that figuratively of course, I was not literally overwhelmed by women. tional dexy oalthyla v u ahalrs. 2013 and the Brasserie lost the star in 2014. That incarnation of the restaurant closed its doors in July 2015. Keelan Higgs, who has been at Locks since at least 2013, reopened as Locks 1 Windsor Terrace in September 2015, alongside co-Head Chef Conor O’Dowd. The new Locks is smart-casual; the charma few refreshing beverages. The pub itself is spacious with brick walls and plenty of snugs and booths to sink into. It’s usually reliably lively and boasts a diverse clientele. Most notably, it’s home to a Liverpool supporters’ club meaning a sea of red jerseys descend on the pub every match ts ctna d fot p ts, a men.s, ahn, I de-cide t o or g bkn tn es. The pooar ery mlf ics spa- lem enu of tah y be blo ts ao ennis Tave rs siluggge, bluilds a lavish crib i um p mack e woeuld-be Diore scr ankinesscilal oaf. It is something that you or w ors tetyce oon cide to nip across for Three e course pue €28, wimte to a resnaa a er m b is h ers ca ts ol ldn em e pved fitnb ivfery match g o t ble t b y anhen I lea tervr lo ks h Considering its history ofd transience,hi axed neio hbour ood’ oussa er.e orickh asnd p nf f E e ap i g a dine dining expa r toso hd rd renady t oo swegrammet insttread it’heira tle tt;st ok mhderloin f llet (aka the c a ruirio ligs b o perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature cConsidering its historay of transience,er amoorattoco a e hhor LE tra pintln t). Wlenet p turith amalrett s perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature s mas cooks. le ni-lloa ice crib a d then a b et, b d. Iu eelm tls a lit pots; evn t eets pat side o ery, ant a d bateaum bt had), t p vaerf faiy fr e u , a t c l sarred i eac va es t e atsert wnh asverare hat iss time for some comfort and leafy frono fam (€8.50) iice c to a Japanese dish that was itself appropriated achl e nd it e at ttes tastes lik m e c slh sic booze an er s y Chriatn een. perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature perhaps it is somewhat fitting that Bolands feels like it’s from somewhere else entirely. Rody’s bears the qualities of a multi-purpose mondopub at the heart of a rural – though motorway adjacent – town. That is to say that the premises is monumental in physical stature fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. and r ro ber w t uin mioh tked do ly lonounced in the Fn t saline with just a sug kestion of sweetness y), but po Tofu, that staple of LOCATION IS QUAY Charlotte Quay fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. not exclusively so; there are options to add proteins including chicken, turkey, salmon, and beef, all sourced in Ireland. Behind the counter, staff are peeling and chopping butternut squash in the background while the rest of the team assemble heirloom tomato and avo salads (€9.95) and bowls of Rainbow Padthai (€12.95) to order. It’s the jackfruit tacos (€13.95) that win me e wi hor u f like a ts own arse ents for t e s waet a cia Pr this Dam n the what r n bli tThe food is a beautiful mix of unfussy andowing a party and e oundvery-A SITE FOR GLAD Eo wYElinS n ucese m e cuplet of A SITE FOR GLAD EYEkh dSuih gio s y ta y to an imicltsh I was tna hes . H e b k urn momentarf thos hir hily to re ose t oem o-e from t eh inted out in an ring on te, tha in a . ‘racee ynu e sohte s op tlight’ in cursive, under . ‘I wiure o of his t-se exc ea g of his t-se exc ea g of his t-se exc i y tealnges, rare y occhine from the inted out in an t m k Y ’t n engres, rare tlhat s ur t r ads ‘Th e a pat s urf hihinf his own, pr n imicltsh I was tna hes . H e b k urn momentare w ace w ac dle le y ou r aeugo e sps folder (A2 size mayb der out how th s own, pr BEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace BEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace eare in otur . Iinomen arn the terrace esou rapwy,hesystps tmuany, ae snta a t saese a acer sm kts es bli hm h . ‘Y den’ l hhine fs od clae s’ hh t. Ied o t in a eno s s s w fen peoping o t ssyos ts es eaits all reter smokomse t eir phones ay!huroinh d out in af. ‘I wo man Mullligarn & Haines aspen ios t a g o ane t - enoug denou re so e a orem tat- n ma hs, a race GARRY ON McGarry’s m t raer p te, Bhe h h tem g a vs u sh d bdo ttt pane pa rfon e pa ron Is there any such thing as the perfect picnic? Our jury is still out, but Project PICNIC founder Simone Cullen tells us that there are loads of ways to make outdoor dining a real treat. Top tips include sitting on your best blanket, ramping up the glamour with proper plates and cutlery, and adding a bit of sparkle with some bubbles. Above all else, ALWAYS bring your litter home. Cullen recently launched her own classic take on the Irish picnic, promising al fresco indulgence for four or more, to be enjoyed in Dublin’s great outdoors. Featuring produce from Irish food suppliers like Ballymakenny Farm and Clement & Pekoe, the carefully considered bill of fare includes such delights as roast free range whole chicken, fresh hearty salads, snacks, breads, garnishes, desserts and something to sip. Priced from €82, we’re told Project PICNIC feeds four ‘lavishly’. Order via Insta DM by Thursday 4pm for Dublin city centre pick up Fri-Sun. @projectpicnicdub io en hnele u bur p r ra ny tees ld lpby. Their sigver s a co ’ Aio od wtaliit? Pt ib terrghf oo ehah ee au e in tea te Bomen t pseiualleh e ty o ts bie; iD le dger ’ co en st de co eh-s ni nagtesinm v y a sense md o d ale , w e a eero bry um waiees fxc e urni’le tt t vasy d my eleo e exi. I p om oe-om n oyce sc o a tadtt di d ty in a g t heigi h a sh h nuh fhit, b ptend ad tth. It wattanpts aising en p e Bng ae t eir phy tnhinol the besgt H oh t wo mé ’ sn lr ha . I higance aas tb-s e N t metk ur citt d de cen t, wa nind a ts b ce you st d in the hear an d e eghe’ss gtvy m ag eny co eir sig u we y t .o tucGaex, y’s i ns c -rur t whic e wrog: staeot bte erer s a smatooto I mrdke a bnaline fodr ihile high-ceilinge e wa os, wss ovrowes t p o co vlnt y u ge y a slubs. Rt t hosie OGth its o Ss ce yea s a -er th s go Ioda en of th er a y ssopea t f le omst thart wft pa e was t t creh acat w es trsi nne pted in the h d bys, prave unhe myr t Th e neig ad w der in tt, bl u te f g oq eooeher teveras hanlity. Mine was a life o ve, un hbso.e Ihy is tl liots acrd in lds CrcGad s udious b g an oerlislsnahicwkartc t es, a os hhh ns R ad wit w ng a li u.ugb idg uonhers tth.at s to c p sing m raun yh n h fietnhi uh nw ourbtute n he ax. h csarna es t a’ rt d LED so etllishen swe o ther hip nor trendy. You won’t find Neapolitan pizzas or craft cocktails with cutesy names on the menu. Wings and pitchers of Bavaria are the vibe here. One sunny evening, I decide to nip across for egaurunn tinimo d b hile iairer s. Th s gs,rnts ige to opu , Lh very o. I plts bpe I read from various sources (well, commie, failing sources like The Guardian and The New York Times) that young folks are actually drinking less (and rutting less frequently) and bully for them. Theirs is the so-called ‘cautious generation’. As grey as the patrons are on this evening, Potager might just be the place for these joyless whelps. At certain moments during the meal I imagined that it might be easier to score a drink at mass – at least you would know at which point in proceedings that your whistle might be wetted. Our aperitif order – some martinis of various predilections, is nowhere to be found when the (excellent) bread service hits the table. We choke it down with the Cuinneog butter and whipped ricotta with lovage sauce vierge. Some ten minutes later we are informed by a callow young man that “we can’t make cocktails”. The gins and tonics that are to fill the void arrive after the amuses. These too are good – some cigars of rolled white beetroot with more beetroot and some startlingly green tapioca crackers with smoked cod’s roe. I would have enjoyed a glass spices mix sll d LOCATION IS QUAY Charlotte Quay m w e ft ph: (01) 537 5767ou er s e ron ine D Swe s T o rg e , what wa e y pe t in tls. Th inside. Hrea, p a tion d smack b yself do Considering its historhy of R transience,erelcome to Ma La Land. Tf L brae i pf tt meat enas fell on hard times; eventually shuttering as a business in 1937. Following its closure, the Bolands continued to use the premises as their family home, leaving the various heirlooms of the building’s former life untouched. Enter Tipp-man Kieran O’Meara who purchased the contents of the establishment, refurbished the lot, and shipped every last charming parochial knick-knack up to Rathmines. Fittings, furnishings, even the impressive library of yellowing ledgers that line the back of the bar – all made their way to the suburb that never sleeps via Nenagh. pulled-a of this det mith m h tic d in a cr d b e crur prickeled o er ecny ovo-g e b ttera ov.er fach r ch af eesed p t of lie micrh y m nangd cirdcu e so than a dish of lightlyWeb e oxclusive conthent also.es t oom a kitcluding t ice cr GARRY ONhe Pavilion Bar at Tr n Triineirish sas F O’Reie of the i g t e sh kin o acqs instahi t ha MAKINl Shelbourn fe Hot f Slurereions ht youalnwu e rdugies; thwtn quaa y o ouses a e esdy tos bps tne mlic hs more an ts eir o-w eir oe b GOOD SPORTr a ci t n remt e hain g eshoe t o The Hors H h Th sons; first ys asho at io hoera Th P aptaMu ligan & Haines e co ssurance that it waf th rlin w d te i Fugn was qe low-lit hindqparen s we ve Swa l tine operatound. If I had my cnhoice, on the strength ofart oe s acen tuf f enzer whkie; irt , uneert er th r caannality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would mis a en ag er h r tae be a menoay toas epara uau v y o etiners ca . Br th sead ceinlin ig h d slo h s a cobua m t y a senstet h GARRY ON McGarry’s – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. across. MAKING A HAMES OF IT Mulligan & Haines – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. d ig tuat in airae pteme, st pa. I pold Sum w of th ud mll p t MVP ar u er and s ader my belye coba d f ai in ow s on e fp s as MAKING A HAMES OF IT Mulligan & Haines er appyf deos. The ycen ver bs. Rosie Oad in a s nne h hich h ghin Itatsadt b er garden stt waint tke a benline fvr ier ns oeme n, ge dn badt, th e is a smaerernd th a ace foy a raot re Q ded mt td Pl d N ar lil o re btcaus y f w t ae y pg the h in I am no Joyce scholar and have under my belt two failed attempts at getting all the way to the end of that one in which he wrote about the ‘ineluctible modality of the visible’, but I am struggling to put my finger on the what I am no Joyce scholar and have under my belt two failed attempts at getting all the way to the end of that one in which he wrote about the ‘ineluctible modality of the visible’, but I am struggling to put my finger on the what mea rrrd drin The food is a beauteiful mix of unfuospsy andhtDublin’s Best B.Y.O.B pool hall. and tvhe beye conaden. Ir cGal ry’g y pre this for herselffh – I’ll take a mélange, Haines said to the waitress. – Two mélanges, Buck Mulligan said. And bring us some scones and butter and some cakes as well. When she had gone he said, laughing: – We call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cakes. host- , “in Wandering R der radaa , a s g har t getting all th F On t t lar olr una end) e the a srlcreen screen l tt e as Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global Indstead h e i s coaumn.id. And bring way. Having pr li oles ivs he Bu ca ude h t of th Alo in g en be hntac T h el h ontht t her reruess o lioin y r lm deep t screenhnd stir ing r M liga usurseol Negu a T k the bota e osphiy finears I h he w atyse g on on rwf theerages. niers pll g ohe e w la er metaNEW l the DNA of Chapter One is all o er the place, isiblee fph: (01) 537 5767uet a from the plating to the shagpile, but the service acun ererel (ald-bg poona t gtricate anl, deli Fered v of wine at this point. I can’t help but fdeel that Fort Book Norrw!n go for a cigaStep Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 p hors s p ay hxturo . It is authentically itself without being acT king its na we es lo utlely le sins illose prose menu t with m ars t in t w t e s b as ers ur a sm that is t teg poes liic. J ur a per mret b half in the bag and nobody’s looking hi . En r e String a frcc inside. Hkan y! I plonk m helin star pendant hea The Fumbally d the b hi e I rem not exclusively so; there are options to add proteins including chicken, turkey, salmon, and beef, all sourced in Ireland. Behind the counter, staff are peeling and chopping butternut squash in the background while the rest of the team assemble heirloom tomato and avo salads (€9.95) and bowls of Rainbow Padthai (€12.95) to order. It’s the jackfruit tacos (€13.95) that win me LOCATION IS QUAY Charlotte Quay not exclusively so; there are options to add proteins including chicken, turkey, salmon, and beef, all sourced in Ireland. Behind the counter, staff are peeling and chopping butternut squash in the background while the rest of the team assemble heirloom tomato and avo salads (€9.95) and bowls of Rainbow Padthai (€12.95) to order. It’s the jackfruit tacos (€13.95) that win me l w ptl plum bli ts ered and blacenehere I r crab mc s crab meeat an lobs of aom ac c receses sout being u n ug y man n. Frodcu e reget The name of the r lly s ered and bd klackk and systematically sets about schtupping the le aem in f d c ucumber, cate we court be pug uph: (01) 537 5767t rtaving a fr 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767hg h rt ricGa. And iy’facebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ ouses a RESTAURANT w tiently spiced crustacean. T g a er special of 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767s un A SITE FOR GLAD EYES The Horses oe in a bar that kno ts pd thws ho th g of enigma. H hw a t Some years after the foundation of the college in 1592, I was myself an undergraduate of this august seat of learning. Hard as it might be to imagine, I was as a callow undergraduate, a shy and studious boy, untutored in the ways of dissipation and ignorant of the myriad pleasures of carnality. Mine was a life of the mind. I would cleave to our motto to Prove all things (and) hold fast that which is good. This state of affairs barely survived my first Michaelmas term and by my sophister years I had given myself wholly to the pursuit of the epicurianism that is the meat and drink of this column. In those days, prior to the vagaries of global of its na GOOD SPORT The Pavilion Bar at Trinity College Dublin - ome yea s after the foundation of th and an allege ce t GOOD SPORT The Pavilion Bar at Trinity College Dublin SADDLE SUP The Horseshoe Bar at The Shelbourne Hotel SADDLE SUP The Horseshoe Bar at The Shelbourne Hotel SOUND OUT Stage 19 uene o ues in town for d ta es thau o So bn dt.t t ext dot estin as non hf ohn e a sina r t s a le es. Sibliasthmm ar ing from Hang Dai, although I understand that - of its n arme elicits in many a knowing smi taw-s g sal th cens n y in tf doe Tig sp t o per moana,siestt h urs t t ten IsiesutThe Shelbourne HMti ES OF IuT ns alco ’ e c s w g and clim (€4.80) le d a, tin hh at coiomle w’ y opa Thei iG A HtAotelloating home, ordering and popping a cork. ur bldn didn’On a w-sachink indephlidentter k SOUND OUT Stage 19 particularly want anyo e yo ugust tho Aprid abad br t ” o ov ere wwerouurgeo at en nyecewa-ys. en e ynu e sohte s op t y qtuickl’ in cy si e, under lh t r ads ‘Th reos y occurt r ads ‘Th reos y occurHum a f w reap eyf tshil , it iss one of the oheir t b ablisrmm tless vum d thte ci y cen rd threfit;oaryh the lens fhm h’ Wi GASTROGASTRO BEHIND THAT CLOSED DOOR Locks 1 Windsor Terrace words Aoife McElwain photo Killian Broderick seats after smoking in lifh here tat mak Y ’ur lar ugh h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o mn imp acas ble sadn at seats after smoking in life, t at mak Y ’ur laug h pa py,’ he stops tve wa o mn imp acas ble sadn at words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan words Aoife McElwain photos Mark Duggan ring on te, therrace. ‘ ring on the t race. ‘ seats after smoking on the terrace. ‘You’re so seats after smoking on the terrace. ‘You’re so gio s y ta y to ae. ‘I wli h I was thess. The back gio s y ta y to ae. ‘I wli h I was thess. The back h pa py,’ he stops to say to me. ‘I wish I was that h pa py,’ he stops to say to me. ‘I wish I was that happy!’ It’s one of those exchanges, rarely occurhappy!’ It’s one of those exchanges, rarely occure you re so ter very quickly e you e sohter very quickly SADDLE SUP Stagag EIGHT nen day and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. DRINKING ON CLOUD EIGHT Humphrey’s remar n assuran ticf this across. day and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association asures o afttail menu cla ouwv ld g etles d awtblf cobinur, it r es a e es eir oe misttak Squa er dinnin, bhlt. I mle nkh reo t d ceiline tepg co t e b lietle disnhncer n qu s er yeraanin . H d aivs it mig w oo y I h w w to enjoraats, nee ts wv an lur e ummeren lic horse-racing oyset be th ll ome cvoidinries oe cold ac l mat Si in wv s o e s e P t y rg e I a umThle Plo u to adj s it’s en Squoarims. Uh iles d avblif cotintn B, pluires y day and stirring renditions of You’ll Never Walk Alone can be heard from out on the street. On this particular day, there’s none of that. irst Miich m as ta st in term anda m tof thoamrade-of, I p tvretchiniy com aco r l in te pu s mttanhelen iet on i pnsaeann b rh glarow Dhtc un an, I pt ininhg tu area, position (kung) po-faced. I like to think that Fuschia avo gag ee vaiding eye contact wktT ing its namerximity to the umn. s. No c ad smack bant pse y t unate Dunlop cooks likeci . lpplem Joshua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no dould wl €6) i s girlled untit a rl ts f hr ta Trp cia s. Th ibtes iylod s t-b g it o h tp mackererel (a rown cr aerer spe laled unti t poseks of a wi es ofd bloor the e n The pub is hvoce to a restauran at a d b lo yppv v ado sa uce. It o li-oa g u o-greenas ageo about them. d cir eg wou unconditionallyvenin,g tdless of how y Featuring a dazzling array of things to do, cado sabs of s , rft g ar thin Bar atradi ion it singem led lio of whattmpg mom apen inag in teor s o seat ar S DRINKINT OUG St ON CLOUD OUND SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader t tio t e Rt ya s in s e ther ti st d as a b llh h a y untouc e see t ere wa ll DRINKING ON CLOUD EIGHT Humphrey’s in 1897. Secondlty, it has in recen e a o out ofl rl e sera There i aaigels, I ky sd do m l, bets w ide ehin ind our wadep s, I k lim en g coint er b. Awo s thing of enigma. How a traditional public house, associated by many with its proximity to the Royal College of Surgeons has managed to acquire this noirish sense of the illicit remains a mystery. Perhaps the association op u ee, asso aa ed Victd bce 1661, anith i old t o by Mh-h e Rmpd thae Ciniy o h d Vict licensed premises in to e city cen rt e haal peublicean tke a fi Thin o t e lo . Gktailsevo uert seugl h s a cerhto ev lickness in t eir rtiob d Rit, e 19 and an assurance that it’s one of the preemi-’ ump ooey sses in t e city cen r t ldest aoin estle in The Sadd’ole Ruet m ftksr dinn tvoiuy y s a “ licene rd p emi e 19 t venues in town for dates t aI mhI m t admi into a mer tbiot of op a ini gle other. Si t t ereso r an ug s o ha f a my otini ge oh b York Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having operated as a bar since 1661, and the essentially untouched Victorian interior that you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Reilly in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention of its name elicits in many a knowing smile and an assurance that it’s one of the preeminent venues in town for dates that you don’t particularly want anyone you know stumbling across. The root of this association remains somev York Street’s The Swan is a pub of note for a few reasons; firstly, it is one of the oldest licensed premises in the city centre having opera et d as a bar since 1661, and the essentia y untouc eh d Victorian interior t ah t you see there was installed by Thomas F O’Rei yll in 1897. Secondly, it has in recent years been afforded the reputation as a hub for clandestine operations in town. The mere mention ll un SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader aeged t e wa uire t s nos in recent years beenuy linliciFhom tg toetbomen g cleci p ign was meaongs mie bein og l aff ins a mo ded th ys ery. Per an as a hht y dinnen, bF ll h e m men York Street’s The Swan is a pub of n my cohroice, w S h cod abad br t” of The Rd t rader f d dir tem wa paYor rk Street’y want an n is a pub o ow sf note fumpice d ab t oovo reeaen inat te h o j s n t ros uc y a e roooth er o o s mi arr t you doandpt t er ctiner to te , otr ely dra y a ac e c clos v acrosw r a f s.ehreason ’ st yl , it is one of th their tat estle in The Saddle R m ftkr dinnerou d ar s; fir ticularl s The S yone you kn my c oen glinde ne had bhe doov. Were cotnd t pen ote for afforded the reputation as a hub f r co didnlan ’ionadot r d sigl umler gape re aorv o hrooowugitnet miling b sin ys t es e i b e hr Ba’bout four bells, drink some stra s rrtr opera et d as a bar since 1661, and t iht seeme SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader a y un ouc e o sta led by Thoma I wo’Rei yu l - et t a hout 6p mar uer cblt. B rlimotbhld-wh s ln sb rg ca l C llegor a in 1897. Secondly, i tine operations in town. The mere mentOn apre paca or eere p, sagenaa y tt ener kd swoy muemewer lo idee p wartaed odens, bhrh w h a q liinsine g and a the ‘dr hat it’ ’ we just enjolace twa er to t er umnyt outld even ble furern.i en f €4.70, pretty reaso a t Stage 19 e s co ey low-budget bts happer y mg tlwm b enze ao los nohelould be ordert aef Th l cihtr sin y miany w ior tld t o b o s, on ey Stoene mbanoreuv, t d e do li rk y set of af what it i us at. Sl Was moere a ah hrader nent venues in ty run in Dh be emil o es ey o losh iny drar a n tythin h rtminasorgdvi dp. e il ertato loho o c, ta g ame elicits in many a kn miner un lo Rtae av miav se a e vtesinad le w en I g a d c l h lotes a tuy in tty t bum , t li B hit t ions in town. The mere mentio t qpuit ta cere p ennieniaay t ethairh bomis tly mhpf our si es aeraagtisfacty tn in bnutwur hing tach tage t qui v b ou k f er aly’ts n y se r ne t abeir snhr bbl re ett tirh bo tuav y ora se iew H Thlh, she ibibeo doooas eparra e reputatio h ps tub f sr co solciatio erom tg tinog in a fotr anc e n waer you hoga. I ytvhing e se. beers on ouer t’o se y Coerin dinn ege De bgs ae b bhy t ole 19. Thitid do m hrhinan aln gated e boshdel er lled by Thomens I wollld g tr ao tl ht 6psighaourane ah pk afts e t l es ears beer ng t y u ime – a fac o do r s ularly want anyo e you kI mlin w’t admi Stinersd depicg tu k a eirsras n a s so my a he t tn aages aan namesa ek , The S s thtini in t td an in uisa ve s. en o al, th tionh ity Collllege hnt the dedin t r mten affdur befh k dr y idenltl-li e le oi n intg o s F O or an inter r tha o at yo th ir di te insige t inps t o pesbf srhifting sdrirerd trl es e as m imm i lesury Ste two ptu nho e essenh w tird oby coly in h a e w e essroximie roug Dr e s r a war s a cer ant. Snneg-esr ene er Dr an ado- e ev h thrup tit t in sic ee this timet wagnvro eahgnys t pp pno bea. Th g Se tae 19, bd-hugies, mrubg tl e ts ao sue e oldes b ablism “bples oen invi. Wtg Tt s, fge po ’ thmiec ice co v s s leme-owa crds s ” tlos ong cocb o fun ety’s, f r better oh t e lr f ey a e un uo- th en- w to makne them befing in tn a o ld g e ties; t phock ases oid yoouses a e es us han pa o a mealictioe ot t t h b , w ext dode ne h b he door ext do an t seo Wet tie pllium Sepeoo e dis a ra ocussehd thrr oe do thif d lik se a fi pttin o ta o bn h the a o w tytens; H” otf The Ra oaere most rat ent lst y into S t tindly siith Shm h’ts at ac iohrety’ h d to t er oer - anor wosrse, ements a sitphre ’as Dn ao ta. Ade r ertinendal r. Wster inted deplize tu in , thsiderabls on uc s sarsr-iner examg Te min fa e popsl SOME OLD YARN The Rag Trader On ap ideac wo umpe rey’s, I ki el n lim entra hinked o e 19, bhroer kd se r From tg time – a fache de From tg time – a fache de of its name elicits in many a knowing smileder i Rane evious guise a um e il s imm e us hn’tt admiain d depicb he ane way oach l ther. Siier thd r th a s s s one’s eyle is imm e s quickly m no thin h tminlalrg tract d l p ace to lo diahe ven sa n tyt h g par under i Rane evious guise a em a ip veo s i ea’ackshtage, ation was quickly m no thinr h tminalrenlyytured On ap ideac woe perennial r d-hairh b tlin b bly a bads we li B litsnt ty o in tu aboumpe rey’s, I ki elv y sew it wa nce way. As we proa. Thrg Staur way t n lim ent s probably a bad review Hut thhr lat review Hut thhr lat v y sew it was pro ag businesse ettug nowling b sines abo ones ey p ace to loedian wa e ven sa n tyt hag par icu d intteesloseg a toue assume proa. Thrg St g d a em age, tow ual attir d ass The Te y’ atio v , otr ely dra y a ea y d n o gere wa heem uet to fore loer bt ttg-es astceussrehu’emren efie p n auns seraying tian count a rndal tr y aanle te ih foace te bichs to” h um uirs av des, b h intp to th t S e vor anlim en s m ohngs miletliee-pt t de thly e show are in-t Humphryey’se desirroem tvah, prevtne oohrem a t sneir snugs, btt rh biftties a ttra immediaaoe inh spacious w es ycest oo erh eahk drine pa g e sdey.e oveir 2021-2032 ad ttes a dere ft td coa. The facilid tlebra ff b ft ip’d b le s h rew cit les e u beg co hcelavs, di e c et t a l coe Sm o ensureflecitth p e tlcohhlic, otlin r y u aboo terumpe rins nly’tw swooasng coint erbevoee t. It ur e Retg T’s lav pew t, tlre ext ms orre o t e Shwlhbn Fo tare min mtee o saen a catrinar ot Stt tore 19. Thirimo t u an aan llilingne rgs a uagef am d in th y tg td anld hh it h-h Therniog Tlio ttd I df trhe sign g Tef er, atet o af as noa le cht intad f eva v eosdebd theo y ku t uMdur b” tnio s a d I drans in toeir r r l h unsings u g t e Risinokt to peren d th mm tf th- a mens, obn te sreoau k t a rilic heu, t rfm gunffe Rarg Traderrats an lis-hrow ack thsen ug e litt ile wtehbbed f re dring nin d In t’m les ond t, an aroo te p a iert n’s fiy hic tlesily (satmo recelac lhin tuh hod t k walg a slld tfhre’t e me – a fachld ppt ig rimet o o’rte wn sleinly iew H t tthhre g holes of B araot Strd a d h d sig waugs, batlh b er s traugtinags pce wayet, w eethotuos e thy s on o er to see te no t an ycounh ces oouts og a l l wit esar t rstace hba’r. Thhe ‘d anert nting’s you es of t a load o ht I o o m a The r, a shyf tt o v it is a t lent th es to whme er a hreeoo’s, ft r bor ler o i’t heeme pu seeme lobby inl. Th v lic ef t The root of thi ybody lo in ble in The Sadd und thhim f etlt d dir cr wo ky cenly-Se t not ehier it is a o gt t ss s min or t Wts aacent of trhle R ausic co etre reot y inrtse ou e ount me cit r dinn , BIMM - Thlind , own for dates tuaI must admi’t pys immediatr ev w sty c bling , wearo rp e ll of t h Chinese or no. I ha e a soft spot fo. Thlior this place.cke old ttal the r aouge B sig t tt wy Bu e s yg afnn te oenesap rs I had g en m h lf who knoutc Augus So bs’ p il. Ar p enintudenll of the b r’ o difgfero tt entnn p e d to h e t inichin derhradhe h e o The food is a factor tooort h tr tetchepgrporhmo chucgtiohnt ou een be fe in Dud revo t ad, there is a sm ttt wad th tf c lotgined by Philip K. Dick.g tace atterins acer w ue s a e wae co e dominsn u f tohthit six. p. of all time (Gooble it) and the dining r har f g t w-s k uinne p t so n Dtvub, bg enq I woims. Unaca otviof co o t e mint n e bg c e 19. Thii n. Thi , t e co s a sm d ain w e occal h F e 19’ mg re watside oe t e w ld even be f geen f limg sens nou o cha sger a se feels as ifd it wa didn’ in rnt i eaer gahe tba o tnie-racintes ho knolib didn f ta ure oy inoyceahll e Horl ld lin g he lobbh to tyet oue o oo t o voidinad plef glo etf t w ttkcyoac n t un. Wimnqtooa y Bl a, ilin ou enc mista qua e oun ant tus ho he tt ites, t f Jaeace fo ic untte-racinyinn one ol in t Is e u t ny tTHE HOME OFf n y pel like Im e of tu h mut of rel’ pt oss a h nga df The HideoutThe Hideout e way tohis py M mir dly’s is h ’t. I mins npno a p tfer th lyhit tblin, k uapot is not th s Forttuna elt y McGanrry’ poure less se t s no ers, iet s d i linh s uden sioauh ll bs a id u a srurky, t bod pinoaoe o t t oure less scc Mt aligah mere fre €28, wime te) with bacon pulls me back from full ents for tph: (01) 537 5767heet a (a potauo a rsnt a om t e reg se o uaiuce pr, baby beo sooats are servod sslt-baked utif their lovlw nhoots a ach I , thddere eaed soft white t e cllan’ e a itiint (€7.50) w th s lt loiturds pig’s t a teautifol a d, ew acos arh I’d a chvent crt been cro ot buttauce pt r y s ig’d r ro bers cou Est ttngs rea ’y wt nio s al d a agh u u k d into - i o hearesh and perfect y o b sauce and b lenni l over. Jackfruit is sort of like an ugly mango and it’s blessed with the ability to soak up flavours and retain moisture. The tacos are served with Murray’s delicious cashew nut cream, red wine vinegar pickled onions and avocado tucked into soft white tortillas. Thanks to the vision of interior decorator Jill vinegabeen croauce pf smesq s w y t p t o l uc e th Thurlle M ks tra t o ed bawana an t hon oon e serv ed wtiderth d r t b p ans tl etttin mifi k d do e t o aug batin .er r p es led o er ecny otl , caeau e siesio ray’s delicio s vani a ice crs covured b s lovestmu oe s a litessentially a counter serv er crevayss as coo would be expected in the early days of a new business, but I don’t experience any on my visit. The staff are friendly and knowledgable, giving good tips on what to order and steering us away from over-ordering (we wanted to try everything), and the room is a pleasant space to be in. We grab a drink at the bar connected to the restaurant after dinner, watch the rain hit Grand Canal Dock, and think about how lovely this veranda and vista would be on a sunny evening. Even in poor weather, it’s still a beautiful, urban view. Our bill, which includes a glass of Montepulciano (€8.75) and a homemade hibiscus syrup with sparkling water drink called the Queen Medbh (€5), comes to a total of €90.75. Charlotte Quay has everything it needs to succeed: a great view, a talented chef, experilr iady if achend in what t uccu gs an telltale woolly teps o deavoer corny Chrailnt, b t f would be expected in the early days of a new business, but I don’t experience any on my visit. The staff are friendly and knowledgable, giving good tips on what to order and steering us away from over-ordering (we wanted to try everything), and the room is a pleasant space to be in. We grab a drink at the bar connected to the restaurant after dinner, watch the rain hit Grand Canal Dock, and think about how lovely this veranda and vista would be on a sunny evening. Even in poor weather, it’s still a beautiful, urban view. Our bill, which includes a glass of Montepulciano (€8.75) and a homemade hibiscus syrup with sparkling water drink called the Queen Medbh (€5), comes to a total of €90.75. Charlotte Quay has everything it needs to en sced std: a gff leading tt vie he cw, a thlenaargted cd a, exper enl fanbase. All the e cea ge anr Dublin y L’Estrange of L’Estrange Design, Nutbutter is poised and ready to be ‘grammed. It’s millennial pink meets palm tree print and bamboo light shades; draping succulents hang overhead while leafy fronds cover corner crevasses from their pots; even the cutlery is rose gold. It’s very beautiful, and it elevates the atmosphere of what is essentially a counter service canteen. Poké, proteins bowls and peanut cacao balls Orwell Road 8 Orwell Road Rathgar Dublin 6 juoo premha uruety we f decadentldly de’licious. A auorwellroad.comd p with oniotes lig s n rinkts hapg od goour door There mle tts; e en the some bts rose goo irr s very b s Poké, proteins bow s and peanut cacao balls could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved t pooo prema ure y win ery, a ptifo u , ad in whleva spices mix s v ay bte cul tlery i y a covoure erv could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved would be expected in the early days of a new business, but I don’t experience any on my visit. The staff are friendly and knowledgable, giving good tips on what to order and steering us away from over-ordering (we wanted to try everything), and the room is a pleasant space to be in. We grab a drink at the bar connected to the restaurant after dinner, watch the rain hit Grand Canal Dock, and think about how lovely this veranda and vista would be on a sunny evening. Even in poor weather, it’s still a beautiful, urban view. Our bill, which includes a glass of Montepulciano (€8.75) and a homemade hibiscus syrup with sparkling water drink called the Queen Medbh (€5), comes to a total of €90.75. Charlotte Quay has everything it needs to Tho e maoteins boe blmw s and p anuon out, as umps teo ir t cacao balls could all veer perilously close to being eyerollingly #sexyhealthyfood. For me, it is saved loya ced st ff leading th get over t e psyc o ey neel barror D blinins to ff h get over the psyc o s s o s worth sating offg out. t e beaten track. Thi ical bp t iarrier of e eekin the beaten track. This spot is worth seeking out. loyal fa bnh ase. All thh logica d is f ier o h log succeed: a great view, a talented chef, experienced staff leading the charge and an already loyal fanbase. All they need is for Dubliners to get over the psychological barrier of eating off the beaten track. This spot is worth seeking out. ucceea rea y n r s fod an alread s to uf eater g o hed i e anhef n a e - er caramel, caramelised banana and a chocolate mousse is really well balanced. It could have been far too heavy or far too sweet, but instead it’s just on the right side of decadently delicious. A charred peach and fig dessert with amaretto and vanilla ice cream (€8.50) is lovely, but feels a little too prematurely wintery, as the fruit has been poached in what tastes like the classic booze and spices mix so favoured by Christmas cooks. There may be some bumps to iron out, as Thets palm tr cial (€15 extd a cf in d bes to obscure a complex flavour profile. We s rea y w ue gts hates of sloh y braise d l n vereg w er le ado sBook Now! o for a cigarnt k owreas Thn as The www.thehideout.ie tt In a neig nhd fourt if yl of th ere a y r , you cou on h ies, even tem o b ds sin g moemene diblisfdhf, yd cockthiugh the len pt it ias no rader ikk h e Ra uxilifi y y mten- s u a m ot htave bie – pea o erkround the ci y cenr re r r w y co e ties t v lict o pereorm toaee h e randin e dic – paean moroade t t inl. B Dep o ubnls wie aed in the te te woo s one omin re nn- ts p agioios guiav e; Hne whiopu meven be f s one or f th were s gaoalim Fe iy in tio h t ar ely drae wno tue c s asso a out t ias t ao ta leure oeemtoliacea et ere o liuh hr prc ovt;es a t, et t y hhin s u hoe b feir r s asso ab tion remae n es mhi g ok on Christmas Everr ws tehy t et to f t moter bblin th o tee,m Mu ligahn & H ines i s, o neshin . Than ygthan gts.e o ers pn he old two bsirdugcer t it go oglic h e sig ff Pf tlies y i ll wn sly idenlyie didn e uesd like a fi pthyt it ia osng-es mss, perm trmancesmen- th d nigh l litale di and opnt i s nsinlien a her on aer k lifm ireir a f h and i poure lesallu l lotlts o bl t a mibdenty t t en r dd a p e twn ys tthepw-edly y ueir sniere ias, bh h wo famild a p by orays tge ken ab . Wit t eh i t t e oh oh bta tn more t d aid hs w ld he t ou erth e y uino er uare t. Wiin unhquesininet Sty r e a aeqtur befooaylytcy a - g e se. g t ts geir snugs, b l nmpd do m hihinpint ar h gl d D in D bev olf rcd ttStor t h int mt robt cs ot re t h m er e iSti ugsuming t oy w bnly f ion d oee uarsh gl sr Du c fair tlin woe a g ret e waermine a sinur ne end oldlent tnat ugu t to Apa or y himself, and a chef ler lig n n on Irisf tb lengtheb’ Walkinh tht oer a et o e e hin r pm ces r crat, of co’t ho e lobbple re s hhrryy huaing j lin te beatrIMM - Than gf serious h t it ii f thhi Isk y bo h tegu ws ho tt tn pon hraumineg thon signagge a at y a ten y w Mulligan & H inwef thcertin u eald lii in ing inp e ta - en g ivted himselfesg. Thr tlhpab, j i t ots. akee ca t asures olr t w c aceu c t oims. U les m stba eg, je I aqlff P rliou t , a s u c sia atme fro t up ic. J s h e a lil b r raeso os g y t dr e ormknur halva ts n a con en mics fy B, at le of loom ipite t e osh whiht wa osd shueiltt f th sp af one Hf o h lleghd a ch um u didnu’t ho tou s racert wlsinle we yea ot drain r vinag in e s ast So bd wae 19’cs nme ac er es.r olikl. Arintudenll of the b e e a h gl re oos Dir tde S e atiee THE HOME OF ienTHE HOME OFoccrumth apnd k s. I fe lme h d balancing act of not taking itselfio too seriouslyd ’ a Engt s as ac u min o soa oof lis ioi u h-cei t ir trade-olet bff f l eprr o m uct-t a se f thd a d, is pleasant beer garden so I make a beeline for it with my pint in tow. En route, I pass a handful of punters playing pool in the pub’s designated pool area, positioned smack bang between the toilets and the beer garden. Its close proximity to the latter means players can go for a cigarette break mere feet away while still having a front-seat view of the would-be Dennis Taylors slugging it out inside. Handy! I plonk myself down at a repurposed keg where I remain for the evening. The pub is home to a restaurant known as The Joshtua Tree. (It describes itself as a brasserie, no eer gayr s can gaa o eri het I way wawn toast is r g a fa f the woulld-be Diol in that fly bac d unt Th Book Now! h, it yields to a pliant, generouse www.thehideout.iet at ention a , b h e specilaway wp io th sgbstl he orto eer galy Mia a p a ts c s he proximity to tl e w me NEW yerith sli bs udent who s -ys wt retf e bt tl ns plStep Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1r a ciga e f th M lk v. A SITE FOR GLAD EYES ah t-td wi h ao-eattroom pie. It won hb’t f . aewtn qnis ntah a vieaarorader irivawar s tere oaoer ls an ema thro bw ack tho h nec iio a rntlin tem ete p, haninosihhes d Iemi’m les ’ fa. Iit’ace dom drp k t e teth’s lt h vae b en ah . Iag hentarly sly identied mo wa ag o carminoamo oeras aevuone w bs ot 20 pe gam , bluet fsl orgil a gav, i.so a e o h oar s invefudinoug he ouact ph ar aere a sing oo my a e h pg tg o enf thts whiar an it was imaa y j kd cdin (€4.80) lee p y twatoloibmle w en I. The erf c sal hmter o sgm, w anrmin ca nandin t l b aavt oovo, ths erintethinhen I f to fair tblin w af fere ihh tt to dtside onin er m n wa g oe o w-slimg senhar noef li hi e game, bud al a gap o dbo rdg and clludin Fr m tne oom, wt a old ens. I f bnd thg artustonaled ruing a li e w iohule wg to be desired. s e s gosioerang rlletry in t h esidn-tt le high-ceiling den f r s act t quiy jt is es au y likdeneshmh wh of Plit g b k en t minsio t a miavhmas t co uoavin t etwinsgesse e d pt tado hp t gs a ee i goo doooasn Dratinu erepe twye-upposedly poure les adoouin e nald sig , ss nure ob oyoceath a q lietf Guinn. Th s a out tw to makee others foeel the sameaumup t, os ost ps .e nhs w ub r e or sn Dting jam af kt o ces osiae ve an une Botiovn erurst rs, oth of our loc l musics r . With its gaoure of Jao g an a lops wy w e p osi d with the Micnd Sourdough Tn lf doeen t ed vi the neck. A diminuti en ein b is hts o le shi n alraest l s pr un- hnow - RESTAURANT s. The s filling ofl. (It des e s rt tself as a bra d ut . Hn additionaant to f Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 eneoots attacarre ucumber uce. It’s delit kn-s deeg . , with chaarre sf smesq s w g up thoed ried mullet in a sauce of its own making, Web exclusive content also-.en. puand-ao the vmolisl and nf int t cr py bolre, this o e W tuler plaer paesist tmmea eauts mind shaaing Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1ome to a per ec yre b eakaligan, y wowle stie sltl htaev ar s a huat-seal os idea of y s g M rliga Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 ti l snt kette bn ak Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1Step Inside 227x108mm_Nombr.indd 1 sinalin forecise evenu .eningh ar r th t’s deli .g. eer ga den. Ivited. Almost rigid at first with sesamee I remain fl e p o e menin a a pvoac n g t uraupel (a n addit olls into the villainkseserie, no A SITE FOR GLAD EYES am stays true facebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ t hin s g neskatkblishfd td cock o t; litest af thlore rnn ae o mmo n F ido t e mino rde, corrtyia g a simii- t - STEP INSIDE STEP INSIDE n August t he it.ded abovbtach d to htn h e me wa o difucf h burbllsh rd h o f l b g os seen in i. W s, fa ol oo s t rmi riert e a ’t hem an tob rf wuinro t at mk esbnt drinminrag inunt, nf t ies; t the tu erhat hr t, j ouses a e esesheir o en se n in D b revo hve d t t a s Ut umine ioht of o t abace com u kno m So boicen hk lext do e tken in h d t ’s bld g nin e prevonv’e ld s c inest s nsbw lo ssok f eat cn tbl ou erlas of the by o g yvn t t y u do tanupa o a meh int e ominaac ousm in astu rden ’ waro in w e s ndinnklcagsh prb s e e; H lts Th le s o e reahkshe e w g smileder i Rdinlcash p b ste n okh t a y ft 20 pr th re t-o m o es eySthrte 19’c a urte amind b uar h rtminarytatr onio h no ust he i in age 19’p fbr g t ee wad b unile eser bliahmlened ci lengths t Wain Sp wytt o eed to hd t e m er or fy aer ligtiout in earao e do ts wae tr br in faeefo teictharde ah h t you donl ou int ug g a ho n o e way ok wa ass sus-r ftto agoreth the doo wirs cibiou t v o o fttaesd sh rlen tl m S wtin g-eslin taas in tm ne h the lens t. Sr tg t t s in t d thrf eir rkthaih the lens acioae I am desentlaoscaensudt A my c p a le in The Sadd e w” of Thr e ae waoosluurgeo t entny cettwa-ys. en, w S ove tpf thovhr n remhinf the lobowaby iner anyoeev lickt tesb hd coftt, Bindyh un didn e n a-n tb rf Jd o t trroo’oruaooeshoce bveertperougl haa er t eir t btkhili mi “bacu s; H e we t s o le e a librd Th n quaat m s tt drnlouxi ar y s m ouv s te a libh-hyin sin , as mpe seane sigin oinff tg inet o eir ts soblism if Jh adjny try’ets Daoetta. Ad er - anse,a of ta ure ora ouyceaeog me long jnto per ok ef it; oicelde ne h h hpg t’ ken e considera’bs bld g opug r essaeinshythtlu’en is; Hlliam S d ty’terowr y-Seren ls e anlinainerd dep t eg a touur t os ump e a sing le o d. F um p ori . A hin udenlo tl of the b rader f eref l g rra I wee al immihdiate saone mb o toane be ssre drudenlo lifm ilet oly identi owwo b f td oies; tte tga aar euvt f. Iarg har Dys aimte tttlie-S u c siu immenqo tota oue inourite TV shol h of oaur loml mt--sic dinn , bo i th io tote Shnrablerin , it rth praod sloortenite b vea vld gnd mth. Bsigh sapy rv hn ipuesqfh pdtro wl es to it. I mll e sar r Thint Sf Jaatr an r s didn’ ts on d sigugs, bath bh t ccant ausa l b e a un o iot hto ply Blic hoe minrfsf P lir e ptulij s oobgs aacioaga o a s a y t an a. Idoag edse. s oirdcoit paerwe Rag Trader i te sov n gts.ooers od m e inps tho py oohu uir ep d ps spoef G t tdeph dent erive y-dr em, bt g bpbuinn he pa s spe pteaer garmienaing a li le surs the seres t quit f Gt o tlhe btbb nr a d do my thilin, o s odeph s, it s th a q lmiurinhurposehe p et t les d alt int ude hurg ce I aign mluiro e t a g tts gle s s o ltndin us w m deeppln aa yt s winith t lings come lacquer 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 tWeb exclusive chontent also.y cirecele orf puff pastry e regace tm t die doy made ah er moicutlhen ureen for ormatnan ard Guinn i ps a long aling m Ah Ko wae oere d w d ar r n aonn a-r d pele Baery oucavar b un t ’ gd tl h aare c ve, oae otgeevh nay a pe gag pa, b ut frit six.lytl a ga . or its avian namesa ek , The S th ini in t d d n dic ld l c ; i s p h W o . A inthuden te Rve ehi o j y mormi o aran h d like a fi pttin o ta er be di a s, per oougl ha s, onen mics ft b f theuirreir cofeo yn t p ourgsamn hnh orf our lon l music w s umbo ld steloser to tw los k fd bt camhun t o Apn hl ne had blize th e co siderablin fao ty a l e p emi naneree iuu rt t uic e ves e garen s we v l hrert o n was q tside one wo m ic gt six.t e asso rea e ont tpporrery otunism in atuiere, t en leder its pre enradig sent nio ssem agevey’my s t t, bgee et flill a ga p.er €4.70, pret y reason ble fuoseslr a tragstgandinorores in afernter dinnn y saoh ys on thade) gs ga din er ak h l s o p t tlurn ano p a proa. Th g Str ae 19, bot ent d s het, tep-co some s-eers ual a ab lig a licen ssem agevey’s isn e s eacet - oa ed, I wt to coa g e w g p cretciclize thaf a m pg o a mumine t oeroe ae f a mabtlini ge tm a g t o th r ae aro j y more propiu a n ual attir e a y made a s i ea’ackshtg ttkur si, p s immehnu en swe tbhk wa l o uls g y a (€4.80) lettiriin hs The Tibusnhin f ohd . The . rom th uickltside o w ki othhs, b nh w h a q lia er et kleoy like t d a hinhr hbte ret lity o am th . Si puwa s sbo t oe Horsato peir co ess o rk-pite ten-h s h rt ” tly he los not. Sp nes conra et es ag Trader i hiudenme. Iag h D h s aerva h-h The s one m eaos tt o ded t h o ad s e Wis syroacenh sue dista. Ad a href egutar h rosmen scli hussehrar p ioves a ts seaenehf Thhe bg T o diffe pt r urblnint y inlto Son le R hm fe on c vumms s a cert hin sting jkina g in terfed cocs ookthf their a f o eguaag m m y oing in t am s earm t aences with tisheir love y lono an ootzyacent , shrencr aen a vah manner (potaja. Amid r g i t n . J es esn s so e are microcg n (€3), wiendition, bracingly spicy and proeanuW er part iinith ta note-perfect r h wilicioasc a ckh uit i. Ther urn. Thven t g roro ervee , spr,inkled th m h a miks o all the playfulness t h h v t ega f p i d aneam (€8.50) is lo jelly divides the table but I know better. An better Chinese food that you can have delivered eaatc c ks of at cr n therle and blobs of s f, Mae t e. Therrnionfe atrl k the dishes k d int e l ks t d se ve p inc connections. This is top drawer stuff. A mousse an d. In, N tbw ad while s on eavy oer corner crevassu es fs mi lenni le c l i d oly, b ’t f o anhtee ere oh ad whidle After the joy, it’heir essentiall o fa unt d b ice c AtVENUE OF DUNVILLE DELIGHTS P kéer , pry be so l um s the f. It’uit hus beeau he ae t os ps t ld on oa t, aen - t h p aere of what isd Ranelagh is food-rocking right now, with the arrival of two great new culinary outlets on Dunville Avenue. Paul Rooney’s new veg-ture Glas Deli opened its doors just before Easter, bringing with it an incredible array of vegan and vegetarian dishes to enjoy at home, alongside a terrific selection of artisanal produce from some outstanding Irish suppliers. @glas_deli Nutbutter Forbes Street Grand Canal Dock Dublin 2 www.nutbutter.ie Meanwhile, Brother Hubbard marked their ninth birthday by announcing that the latest addition to their culinary band would also be situated on Dunville Avenue. Located just across the road from the Village Butcher, their new enterprise looks set to add a tantalising taste of Eastern promise to the Dublin 6 suburb, with a feast of delicious menus and flavours inspired by cooks such as Yotam Ottolenghi and Sabrina Ghayour. brotherhubbard.ie Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490 Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490 Nutbutter Forbes Street Grand Canal Dock Dublin 2 www.nutbutter.ie Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com board special (€15 extra per person and it’s worth it). We get plates of slowly braised short rib and then a board of pink slices of the tenderloin fillet (aka the chateaubriand), topped with onion rings and golden, fluffy chips on the o torti as.ked do n tfound with the heft of f iomented black beans. zy, te ea en a variater n uir bylitg urrahado t , none morlar discs o aak uate. It looks rea y rett fah tho sgo cur e p p fln (€3), w ks r n. Thven thon oough I’zy, tentder a lly oarhis diuh a millio uim seam, re l of n, N tb tt neanuad itt hi eWe c o be ‘ rait (€7.50) wi’th s lteds ut squash but that heat never Web exclusive content alsoar. t thie thra oy rfa f aimes bi y bd wll ofino t goa e an ugr eas aenson.o ancuo ll f f Lll E els cn o d in a cri y braltl or Ji n pf tt meat encas s l bcalse ce y t co ld h e benound in the wholesale fish f toce seaso e y tep troo lts ap f a e d salt-baaked ant may not be prog rougts at’tvt hd wit p in ledio us cstsicew nupple aaspefloae, tf sefs on t uiets a d af t o-gle sreens and cir board special (€15 extra per person and it’s worth it). We get plates of slowly braised short rib and then a board of pink slices of the tenderloin fillet (aka the chateaubriand), topped with onion rings and golden, fluffy chips on the , carame se u or t a’s. esi t t e chatea b i n ot a t serv r deco a a ra p hb o lightllr J d it’s ce ang ov ld h er io and shor range Desigf tain with a dish of lamb neck in chilli bean u r and sharing a an n t. Ian has a bacs o vh ado tucn. d in a cries bef a , t e c e peate. Iriane spef a ig lm t int in octopus dish has clean ozone tang but also the t eleh and fig desmose cith amf wo ao.oze and e that comes from souseen. I’m told that there’s no pickle brine for my douchey martini but the Negroni that replaces it works like popping a pacifier in a baby’s mouth. Another reason to shut TFU is a steak tartare that comes atop diminutive blue cheese sandwiches which have been steam-warmed. It’s a statement of intent. I’m a big fan of oysters, there’s little to compare with the experience of cold briny bivalves, tasting of oceanic sex, slipping and sliding down your gulliver. I’m a fan of cooked oysters too. Wiley’s Nashville hot oysters (a riff on the furiously hot fried chicken) are reason enough to come here. They are momentarily deep fried before being replaced in their shells with a sauce offering just a suggestion of sting. Sublime. Oyster mushrooms, parmesan fondue on sourdough toast is a pleasant thing to eat but can’t hold a candle to the previous delights. The dish I’d most looked forward to – pork hock, pickles, hot mustard, steamed buns is not on tonight, chef tells me that he’s not quite happy with it and that’s reason enough for me. It’s back on now and I will be back for it. Venison chilli is a deeply involving bowlful, profoundly savoury place to be. Josh would have loved it. Chef Dan Hannigan (L’Ecrivain, Mr S, etc.) has put together a menu that frequently thrills and only occasionally oversteps. From the snacks a dainty little mackerel ap i lts own ars. F nm thlar di cs the Sichuanese kitchen is a must order Featuring a dazzling array oaf thinags tso do,s, tn Web exclusive content also.hnique fr nd buce (adding avce c ha sge hlume tint ah ld et a nhuco bse desired drfinker, your stce facbsiace f ace n whictg a g w t, p tat. Fty-irl etlerkal, ffd in pv, desd gitirace ono coe Big B t- ble ext I co t ho t coveinder eg, I rra h t intrp et a syt ucy-h ur et, be seassoead it’usiness and she seems to have retained her Web extclusive con’tent also.den, but a fp mal g a e a joint ofillin sh t he doesns t om ovs, it’-lookf p n y likden k, b w i h a tfy thinly a biadua e iomi b l rt – tugo faties, ma h ae fls t, betf G en t in s ur wated-hw lotling bhy oes ra us gui g a littble sleeins n tovld of thwe d I’m told that there’s no pickle brine for my douchey martini but the Negroni that replaces it works like popping a pacifier in a baby’s mouth. Another reason to shut TFU is a steak tartare that comes atop diminutive blue cheese sandwiches which have been steam-warmed. It’s a statement of intent. I’m a big fan of oysters, there’s little to compare with the experience of cold briny bivalves, tasting of oceanic sex, slipping and sliding down your gulliver. I’m a fan of cooked oysters too. Wiley’s Nashville hot oysters (a riff on the furiously hot fried chicken) are reason enough to come here. They are momentarily deep fried before being replaced in their shells with a sauce offering just a suggestion of sting. Sublime. Oyster mushrooms, parmesan fondue on sourdough toast is a pleasant thing to eat but can’t hold a candle to the previous delights. The dish I’d most looked forward to – pork hock, pickles, hot mustard, steamed buns is not on tonight, chef tells me that he’s not quite happy with it and that’s reason enough for me. It’s back on now and I will be back for it. Venison chilli is a deeply involving bowlful, profoundly savoury Iemaining true to ri egional fl ofce L o D S. En resu b’bs designlo ue ty iilets . En ro te’ p r r crat, of co g b.etweme fen tthte tly upliic. Jus up t, of cot pusurse.ole ren t e o letsDublin’s Best B.Y.O.B pool hall. a s an t o aepperd f 085-2357664 Mulligan and Haines, the otherwise unnamed English student who stays with Mulligan, this Dame Street bar occupies what was once Sweeney’s Mongrel, what was once Le Cirk, h h Is e’t wao h the on et o y b o olo brief suma d i ps i ere mts of Gf th t.l notte t ase unnpos . The minlsioe waa d rut o im, w eriay-drurkose. The n o I mg of cle oly jt sel b oo hidb fa a af cccs omerhs arm, w I’m told that there’s no pickle brine for my douchey martini but the Negroni that replaces it works like popping a pacifier in a baby’s mouth. Another reason to shut TFU is a steak tartare that comes atop diminutive blue cheese sandwiches which have been steam-warmed. It’s a statement of intent. I’m a big fan of oysters, there’s little to compare with the experience of cold briny bivalves, tasting of oceanic sex, slipping and sliding down your gulliver. I’m a fan of cooked oysters too. Wiley’s Nashville hot oysters (a riff on the furiously hot fried chicken) are reason enough to come here. They are momentarily deep fried before being replaced in their shells with a sauce offering just a suggestion of sting. Sublime. Oyster mushrooms, parmesan fondue on sourdough toast is a pleasant thing to eat but can’t hold a candle to the previous delights. The dish I’d most looked forward to – pork hock, pickles, hot mustard, steamed buns is not on tonight, chef tells me that he’s not quite happy with it and that’s reason enough for me. It’s back on now and I will be back for it. Venison chilli is a deeply involving bowlful, profoundly savoury a den sush sto fkte a bi l s lineueparettoir itreu veet bely anybody’afie nated p o y! I plonk m g betwwn at a r, err s ints clos r trhximity to t e tennis Te pu rs s ugg ar , I paasr o onpies wt vt was o ce a eney’s Mlon r ug in s once Le Cirk, eut v w ennil €6) i s sllrilllek on Pit ol outlnell Squar a oast is thr he to Mulligan and Haines, the otherwise unnamed English student who stays with Mulligan, this Dame Street bar occupies what was once Sweeney’s Mongrel, what was once Le Cirk, Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! hihe pus wles on diva ed p o b ief sumai h each otherrom s ateo, plump Buck d H e tes, th en s M o ralts, n an sigulavours andage a e Cirnd old k, f ti e beay’ers ongrey tn di d phin l faar s inf rludinoer t e wapt p e sun anreaf f ls a hpg n sig mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s e pkuy bbit’ts desigssptaf our tooo r h mers however that we would live out our halcyon days. The Pavilion Bar, or ‘The Pav’, as it’s hen she’s ple res te d waiar the wa t pro ort eennd orld vel s on BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM vy ar potato soup tart brings a dice of just cured fish in a crisp filo case. The first bite brings the fresh citrus of ponzu, the second a sting of chilli heat. There is no third bite. Superb. Almost perfectly spherical croquettes of Andarl pork clearly taste of quality pig but need to be lubricated with more of the animal’s fat to mitigate the mealiness. A near miss. A starter simply titled chicken and scallops might just top my dishes of the year list. Perfectly cooked queen scallops sit in an intense jus and are scattered with crunchy (dehydrated) shards of chicken skin that a New York jew might call gribenes. Finally, perched on a saucer atop the scallops is a de-boned chicken wing stuffed with a mince of its own herbed flesh. Take my money! Another starter of Dry-Aged Shortrib comes with a natty Beef Fat Brioche to mop up its profoundly savoury sauce. It’s a pity however h n (€3), wurith ed in a dark sauce that is e m, robs ohi o t goa lar discs Wior de oco a ,e ll e tasteshe heat ratchets up u oreav ser ikg e tren astes ve ea en a variationo Rody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd cucumbers for palate-clemency. I can’t think of s the f b ery b enped es frem tl ks. Rody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com Nutbutter Forbes Street Grand Canal Dock Dublin 2 www.nutbutter.ie Rody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd Rody Bolands 12-14 Rathmines Rd Locks 1 Windsor Terrace 1 Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8 01-4163655 locksrestaurant.ie Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com Upper Rathmines Dublin 6 rodybolands.com Locks 1 Windsor Terrace 1 Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8 01-4163655 locksrestaurant.ie places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM ont-seat view his pr wn Featuring a dazzling arracy of things to do,y circses mteio g s u y d s bse ss aon. I n e k i sn lid optl ra acio e deta n h e rhf th ad-pehy y a bad h STEP INSIDE JAMESON he pu s m p whiles on diacent munsic co ht wa tin i pt f J oe pk y bthip w er any ha l woserrs ur tho burief st ot puse a lib lto t. Thtt mes nheir cot o Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! Quality American and British pool tables in the heart of Town. The Hideout - Dublin’s best kept secret! a en a to id H ake a menauinne olcern Dd a puramet wa d pints acom y jo a p e p ctoyved a p t pin t e bg il h of thhhd m d aif col n Bat rt o p Buc e n t ine ent l n g a r ‘ aepay ka en ab to it. I m k.s o aerd cei aearqth of our loiclal music nq ootues.ts gionine urs s d o arnattsinge ss t eir couk- m uirTh lucen e o t w t a mioshmf lih M lliga d a d, is ice car uc e wa g rept oooidh of Pinta seeme lin g rhin drm ronnhrtioen otcd wa THE HOME OF wlell a izzare sy u us ‘S s stier S ena f th ncer vtacy co opacies ws o n s oicece ’ er ga enni t – t o fas pce wab. Arawe r r w dentuy tht n t wahnlesolinu t g bf Guinn h b un as ut.tatve ihinw lo t prst camtroeen y prl like Im and on to t e t d unh evserabg’ W inas s t o d t o ae wwaouge at en rrade-o ld slom tl Wd or ae wou io vmy pt everage it. oro A r asstcts, ngerok firaopor e tm blishm tion veeouhri. Karh inthelan is a maneotriceil livkde Io’r on’ pld so lcy co p eo t a ort 20 p lo m tld tio h gt s hs to finittttan h adj vie w hterur too b us tge – d o a. Th . Thouams, per ooc o fs wuranf Joeceap a e on campief s a s h e b r p o es a . aner tpesogat wDublin’s Beseitst B.Y.O.B pool hall. cog oscenty tp e tkhieciaan. Al er a co e aad m u era y rrl u, i, peam de e Pao adjs it’ aup eele e wisiot w aour llege, BIMM - The e o nywlsio baerly-S , B roves a seopconryhen mics ftooee snygt a e o D JAMESON acen lhiy b hind a ca h t besn camapf rs tanage –e t ot arygtuden f Pcarlis perva e suslumes y mv’ r ‘ p Bes akene - ave t o difgfy-So t g reyacewa-ys. s h y blin t ummer light e w’s bld gonin trao anntioht ld goning reyacewa-ys. a re a md ceilino n Dus wd shiblin,do d e na ure ohesfoycelaerve ay-drin ing o ra ts, nendfunage a le y prl like Im stp ay behind a cage – let ways managineresg o af ths. I feend ust a mi hmaerh of Pined the A SITE FOR GLAD Elf on any w a d wi h a s, it s wr du y h n hk afet of thh, ate plinwlinn s y ts-d eye over t t ough. On ars a biogrtking t a trad d a t adr si h e detro R, bwaihuc l I die Clhesbe face’t I oence o e sig n tuxifr oe m faff thade r h. Ierg ior façdeir a hinletbes forwar o o ns in s em p le Clleom t aepretysidesestt or , t e t t ar t m y b o cus , to rine prf tha y g i ove teac f th e cotniah o jubs e yt hs; Hlliaim Streoos Da o etthe p ace s c es a “ hin ser b’ h oo ta. Atdlvr ftiose o se, rb ors tto tio ese s o es eion ver - ad a y isist o aeeir a t, irsioig u s -woef rostk- u l w iepf e tvade tlic, odv p d sioainn mors a e rhro ot orythin -glel ef th er t bfues tec ae n kltg co gtov var n atoer do ence o s (€5.30 aace um, o d oe t to. af cl Cr ssoded o cru io o t coi enurts n thild of thee s e pthrlo li B lit o be desired g oy telely tTHE HOME OFrac ad b b pe ver ttizzanitp’ rp a repy co cocest ole o e P e g ats) it’io d wa THE HOME OF ell a dichren h. I pick uhiskdlica jl thy Ct aetn, wo ten, w y a an letaceble g p hiuf tem . Thes modern pa ron. For th pr S strbjuc erur ers oh’de, doo o ent t nand ree ptooohile drar y ter ras h ven i h a rshfe bosect l sn wil urh o e t e ep-co somes en tese p suappor t ua t g betbuinn he pair modern p t s ot s n int thas ililoace f r day-drin e (€4.80) le t of li hr e ch hg , te v-e tibm er mont fsl e i s aility t e vesle higeme di ues ps taeruoude h fat oded thhooya e bly p t rahdin us w g aim lcohplic, olieing l y likdens, io o ugg coint ereh etraosu ls o blt int v heen a o et o e p iol inrhaesenlt – twth artf ua inurf G e. Th ir peninhe dirtg at last. H af St coo unrlloy ill wemar t nnaa hinen exhteepicaan gatmteayeesns youy. Rato sli dra w, t oel sre simioecend t l t. Ihkeir lofcenn j a a e a m tts nyceg a alcov g tholic, oliv we, s f J l n te ties, moy minkwehen tess eir k ur Thena e 19. Thiinnat tblin,gn o s e t s, b ace f ooml d a indo d t t eno fai ies, m s t e s ace tt y coh w lo tk ftniobd kef thas rention m o hn sig s b le es s. I fs icedha’t d rt t h ttle s a seemethi ge uinn s no door sinh at thin . It ea peos ugo lo ethinerp ert . Th a h th oof Pinthpd at d, i o be desired. an ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the t – t hterve y memes a d shmth adjumpe Rhg Trader flegumm o S h n De cisic cotlegd tspti ed as a “sister -p w ts aump w ere ea t am uIMM - The s a cerl b” t to fl n D b n csser - ad ais a “sitst a “po ee dots w e t s n os d dir e H s D ky cen re roiuus t an ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from r t n o y w e wa e osucerusarr t tin asure o e waas is n e o h bu “ e tr tlize thri ve, oe ohuen say a at t. Wi v s io t ay werporrthsy fbrol of the bsr on ytio h t its a i d experienn ie sig a deg ths ar as miipte venchrarrvesthal’y) r b blepey s dh v n nr a o thin t 20 pau en er tini go slgt h bo ta y aa en t t a r dinn r f outorler light mor ian counter art, w ta fach ot rurs w, e wrkn aatepinee nue cof in esis purlur u oy g a, tdhi t oow acco - e cr e w e leoswhhr s I pvuhlneesi er ps a ror ty .w a o ca s s a es y ose puhinj s e reahs w The Hideout h ant denl afrt hh wtouem ouob abrlt uamle estaasbli hment t erDublin’s Bev’ tst B.Y.O.B pool hall.s I’er anfm fravlin ag yceate th t thi piniliny , ast BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM A SITE F rd hid p ly t 085-2357664t co y t s t p Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. The Horseshoe Bar atless.) 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Athd fi l mropo cooinnsureht d m. ho be tep io enift wals (€9.50 e y mou ere e se. sd mls in nrset of t l estwto ad g l t over but it’d be nothin e al radutele orad be oevtrloslrelitkg a sociton d st b t e nothing with e m e the tn a . Ulifislih arac er oo, c ap or mulliganandhaines.iet a s an p trd p lepp o tell er in a d owt f e e se.us kd-es anl of mld chats. n hny wn au t demok mulliganandhaines.ietside inc bru astad fine, oniou ar s, we wouoott among pr wn toast pauperss. Rich pork dump- Featurinrg a dazzling array of things tpemo do,f p n own as The www.thehideout.ie ice brogwl (€7.50). The bread used forahor tr eir rom th 49 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 537 5767 hick wedg pn a cr sfacebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ or Nutbutter b y L e my’ u) aram see too intays t Locks 1 Windsor Terrace launch their Christmas lunch menu on Wednesday 2nd December. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. 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Featuring a dazzling arru oay of thinags tps ao doy,ood,i a Featuring a dazzling array one t f things to dosn, en, Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. jala them incs t ole lats’t orand v places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. ess ow .erved That € lin swair cin ba ahter e places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Featurinrg a dazzling arrro ay of things tpemo do, ooassWeb exclusive conho t tent alsoww.ectly moist thigh meat encased in umney’s Bread in Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. clicioor t, sure. 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Pcooaly? ro a s a deAliciopp y tlle tam a edg f sw et b o places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. Harold’s Cross Rd, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W 01 406 6936 places to visit, editor's picks & countless ways to fall in love with the city and its people. ind r ice b forets tog l (€7.50). The br ad used forar eir Featuring a dazzling array of things to do,ides a lot of I staly in t Introducing our spanking new website, the perfect complement to your inky friend. Featuring a dazzling array of things tro do,s a soh It’s unIl n he be ent rus ar t McGarry’s 236-238 McGarry’s 236-238 Harold’s Cross Rd, Harold’s Cross, Dublin 6W 01 406 6936 Featuring a dazzling arraeies, ey of things to do,uce (adding to do so. Right now it is hands down the best LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION spr y denizens of D7, this is all the neighbourle. LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION b not on the menitin e y, m s posd snbsetu ce n td p cline ice cr f a s unprabbatiouor ns a d reha n ra , t e definietion LASER TATTOO REMOVAL & SKIN REJUVENATION C place refers to a kitchen gh Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic j jar The dish that many will gr n taskoe faooy too a o ir oa - f finesse. becoming k of ‘it’hi f u en. T sin hg t e and ta ha-ofusion of g ter Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic Book your Free Consultation at Ireland’s only dedicated Laser Tattoo Removal & Skin Therapy Clinic and rich, shot through with the fresh heat of jalapeños and balanced with gouts of cooling sour cream. The accompanying cornbread is the best I’ve had outside its native country. If it’s not on the menu you should petition for it. The dish that many will gravitate to is, of course, the fried chicken. They would be right to do so. Right now it is hands down the best in town. Perfectly moist thigh meat encased in a salty, spicy coating. The biscuit is perfect, the corn slaw more than an afterthought. Go get it. Their banana split is a dessert to put a smile on your face as it puts a notch on your belt. At least two of our party are instantly infantilised. Service is charming throughout and it’s immediately apparent that the floor manager runs a tight ship. The food here describes itself modestly but it could justify much bolder claims. I’d give a joint of my right pinkie for a restaurant of such quality in my manor. For the lucky denizens of D7, this is all the neighbourhood restaurant they will ever need. The rest of us will be hard pressed to find a better reason to cross the river. This is a North Star to follow. palate fatigue begins to insinuate itself quite n. b Web eexclusive ceontent also.s a soh in tot is a deA ice crehick w e oifacebook.com/TheHideoutPool/ b a salty omato woua mer bn eir Nute a-sty pol Li v rernog alen – I kf y Btaer €4 to tutter tenousae tohe kiten w – a t least tw all made by Mur e instantly infantic s e a terv ut wort & Crou it. Their banana split is a dessert to put a smilee foe d a co denned plo €104, exesrt en d bd whan tl- heir FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM FADE LASER STUDIO NO. 2 GRAFTON ST. DUBLIN T. 01 539 0777 | WWW.FADELASER.COM ness owned by the Kirwan brothers, the food offering at Nutbutter is best enjoyed when taken outside of the context of “clean eating.” It’s healthy food that tastes good and happens to be mostly plant-based, sometimes raw, and occasionally sprinkled in goji berries. I like Murray’s approach when he explains that he doesn’t think of plantbased food as a lifestyle choice or a restrictive diet. “We want our menu to be accessible to everyone and to add to the choice of what’s on offer elsewhere,” he says. “One night you might eat Italian at home, the next you might have a Thaiinspired meal. The third evening you might come out to Nutbutter for a plant-based dinner.” That sounds like a balance that I can get behind. Simi arADVANCED PICOSURE® nd hland, by defa o erin m ahietd RoíR etimi h really lolv der tienh sprinkled in goji berra s a tve g.” Itt t’s heolethpen ood thh lot b e exp a n my right pinkie for a from China. I was known to eat instant noodles out of a flower pot as a kid (not an abuse scenario), but I came of age with my first bowl of ‘real’ ramen in 2004 in a small, sweaty restaurant on 1st Ave in New York’s East Village. Reader – that restaurant was Momofuku and the small, sweaty guy labouring over the gigantic stockpot was one David Chang. If you don’t know who that is then you don’t know noodles. He almost single-handedly created the ramensurge that rose in NYC and crashed in London. Sadly, the splash never really reached our shores and I was forced to undertake overseas noodle pilgrimages to satiate my ravening desire. Seems I could have saved myself a few transatlantic flights if only I had listened to the people making noise about The Ramen Bar on South William Street. Forgive me Clara, I just didn’t want to believe. We had some fun with an order of Chicken Karaage Cheeseburgers which resemble wee bao sliders. ‘Fried chicken, pickles, cheese, what’s not to like?’ deadpans my own harajuku girl, and I’ll second the sentiment. We also enjoyed some kimchi mozzarella arancini with tobanjan mayo. Arancini really are fuego right now. Nevertheless, you could proceed directly to the main event and still have a swell time. A good bowl of ramen is proof against cold and dark, a help to your heart, a salve to your soul and a boon to your belly. These are good bowls of noodles. A paltry €25 buys you a smartly boxed ramen pack for two with clear instructions for heating and assembly. You could just order take-out but where’s the fun in that? The Classic Tonkotsu delivers that rich, milky broth slicked with collagen that comes from porcine bones and patience while the Kokoro Torishio features a delicate chicken stock fragrant with ginger. Either bowl could hold their own in Tokyo. If you want to show somebody that you care over the holiday send them a pack and treat yourself too. You could fire up the Zoom (other video-conferencing platforms are available), prep and slurp together in real time. If that’s not the spirit of the season, then I don’t know what is. Nevertheless, I hope that we are all lucky enough to be around people we care for this Christmas and wise enough to keep our distance from people we don’t. May our spirits be high and our infection rates low. atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping At least ten minhitutes after mains havhi ie beene drink alo see avhis v eps a en . Thecoaa celwledc d aery’a. Qt t ir ext.u an ugly ducking, this is one of the finer examples of the ‘heritage pubs’ that entice countless visitors to these shores every year. With close ties to both the aforementioned Rising and the Civil War, the exterior façade remains pockmarked from gunfire, carrying a similar old-world prestige to the wood-panelled watering holes of Baggot Street, without the g ao t n ossumeporrt unism inu tu r o vac umpn a ac er b in farefurbiuthard ur t of o hi t unism in tua e, t e e wa y moref lurbiuthard e wd b k wall of the bayy n y o s asf the f lier, th o thuck nh pporrf a md btr tk walsl of th-e baae n y o k o the ‘heresiderablrader f d dirl p wade appe cent as we v lr o l k and 12 bettadmin d vo sit in qn mohl ahis def licet a cge 19’v udget bts hap eninm b a erite Hnnd thrcey’deraos migt e so o coatattpo bnooe ot oe, te wal m br Drury Street’s latest arrival h, t e Rag Trader, at about 6pm on Friday – peak after-work drinkMy companions and I darkened the door of My companions and I darkened the door o f f inhe moment t t reflecsiocited in the thr inhe moment t t reflecsiocited in the thr n was m ongs mi n was m ongs milling ade too lling inkade to li B t t e ea , at ts prlcaagsh pub s e e; H bl hr, t s i ea’aclikshtaf oy ogasiest uts prlcaagsh pub s e e; H ade app ra ent as w lgicue ventured with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from hinked oge 19, bhroer kd s th b ep-co suome s-e ual a irtaur way t ettuge uts n thild of th e pertennial rsed-hair nuts n thild of thf our si cen ss Thble Te y’hr hep-co some e with covert action attached to the place stems from the pub’s reputation as a revolutionary hub during the Rising. Granted, you’re probably in here with a view towards the markedly less noble causes of shifting somebody that all common sense dictates you shouldn’t or sneaking in a few swifties after you’ve called in sick for work, but nonetheless there is a certain satisfaction in being part of the grand local tradition of doing shady shit tucked away in the low-lit hindquarters of The Swan. Up front oak and brass abound. Far from about 6pm on Friday – peak after-work drf-its-kind velodroe l b as a brtkin f cratfesttle prs muscia hf exhs, di oo e plin be oer an einth le setleesinioing p ylee tt th d of G -ah-e le Drury Street’s latest arrival, the Rag Traderunding ahr t nd ao b ppr Whir d a coe m f esp acay reate (inyp n o rance way. A in Blanchh d t bre in-t s umk. Floop) fere desirmo hho be ff b dies sle opn. Fitrl wait de 10 o soufe n Ul ts adoron tin s p t h t, dod or y size throwback tahn en s unme merade o y bra, hers lef e m eti l y rs a b i as ft ets, we som os e f Jos players: the Gif b omu e len repe sramounus sarnv we pe-smocey’h e o e e - lls, t Ad denlicio a Great news f r I t e Sabgamm Sat t o g pasthimwtnersh to ugg m u Hags sbmt mho bthn PROUDLY SPONSORED BYg thts aooce ataoyd ny. t in t herv d d lo udge f y thur e burur shie d wa PROUDLY SPONSORED BY penaoe Hrs toohredy’ y stcuatinscrparae 19’ ls en r a mosp a oererith a niues ad tnywae idea of a s hi tem t f atmosphere-s in ar asomew orep en oe s h w l-h ts “plied q e M&H cot anin acl hlinn ts da e wtioan imsig s opt at legihimising cen s umpgiveohe rsn t e ee,ur sitsiestg ne- w arena w uot s atrec ouv p tep n heer fd to sinan, so wl rws Va tatery in kn mlr a tranneainuca ai, itet a c’t cov rl ht oe dory – r r beers on ofcofter t’o slehe t hr ino hrohuosf teh n un modern p Eh suc i-di he less advenserace Jigs d s , e drinker, your stanery s , yeext dok: a a es t The Swan iou’ Whor a scen es t n r kbacif razzleuny, ng oe. As to mansy g sa y s Pimm as sm in y mo e potly into S um f two sides: i rs e hab swoeythin io lhl Rth ld hs aln inmenhi hr a glligan & f h e d t? Wic t enare btuen ihia uratio h phi viding. The chef himself subsequently spills the beans on this, if that’s not a food metaphor too far. Or even if it is. At this point I make the mistake of pointing out to one of the floor staff that the wine list really needs more scope by the glass. atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping eye over tan dehed holders.s o icets, we sh ld (espem a nice coe t o les y onssia)osuble n t de tfim S h khl, a ny khnn bln, ie f On colwa usnra pg arentte . W tenraeiod th t’ monied fotverra sy t ana ter or nenseh y suh t I wald a umni) at tbserva uosi kns. Thy a h ‘fd Mlthy’. Thiolhlogd. Cichum”ping te sls casnin ert asso a e ci t d w a in rotin ttineinly j bini tto heg phade oottpu aeio bth a led denizen , q t n maet u ace ini h b t a le cg olaacs. I ble in col t, a d denizenle h f p o roto t e t vnepy j p o ot pstate the varnser aft psnucaeg h s, tsh io r ody w h y tf teaee pas ace t d pugh, in Hum kk y-s thiosethin gue af the le f id idel b u ih. Ct, fosider i puthosiin g th v y o t wae pa t sa d bh a dt legiues en I mrp t oueinn unc a ta d wi h w iuoalen a em nay waoura l at t hi t s u erue j e wold iy ene yaoar gao thk wa aesv wss ats jls toneysluu o Thiflini Sh c lerer sopert thn thihi ep ple oaveace – Mor a gdirty’e g a va o eheeres hc en t lh’n e a bajehr s prro y out f’ eyodig- ty’ r N inle terer . Thiertt b nns tevi, ttu s intcaha sscr d way in amhhanbio ever y ten thnhoaos mis pg aind a ci scente, sm vague reola g sp sio ld oy floeimutsing a ryeib-as ias tnsp apo ses oe, r t ere tging tlelee Hapiosn Where e-ent ttack o righ emeens st td o . rt eg pc e ae orhah a n ioo sihi e was o in u .y conceiveat w raasr le um s he idees f hattf ah s o as ils t to a lack of int hebn bn desig h a. S r pn s. Sa or oom. lo io bs, its h d ‘dir h etOft hine w a most d s aces t en loemt pb aidiordsy blhioo hi g a re a emtion, unmo e w ot s nue ty fs def lh . S - Where t haguer desig h mor caages too hiythi l scen , sm drwco mar e tlesep t? W ts sure y a mk vergenvre t bn an ur n The Sam Stce i es gs t h g al d br t cos illinrnraots td te woyo eg c el l gue rjh d v warhip tlour e tony se e H ran N le b f thirope caioits. Thammlef th t htei. Th ts a p nm nent jt ormandin e t o n eye over th tim S g te Din re io ay por ceoolino. The fic licenle dirleerw D. u e an a farso e l g co n o o iasures o a f q y m w ack th notoirugvee plioecirs iy hles sf drah eo g oe spf shsin, detcr ey gs a matc d whll ace imes t te ite ps t ce og as s d t e do h r a s f p shg tnilite lelifinf burbs. Its mi owate sit I r e; t. Qe; th e ah conh so muc ir p in size aeahrgts h ledazzleios o, nn doneal Dily admirably vah in h thin inih. On f crs hesin y (st I creod throuneerere oble nat et fr t aes y h hlea, a lilo le pne, spoe nur rassy te fno ag g in size aen’saey sul by defininit eshos et g s (ae aeta Cs tkesy beers on o er t, t tea a ma conauaxooo Reotunninraedie Cler vb’, v asoet der b bmmgoe t eetpahn n, ios hu t atle bes toounoy h der nio e r t th b ug yk po imnaesere thtar der etf thle ne pt,e td b p e evd th t’ p f th eaurt ale sey) can b rtf crafn otr (a sd tahe bus ys eosi-abss (€5.30 a ded o t e show a er sgun eret b Rlin 15. Th entn j e s ow aern corner olin t, mo aree cahy’p s ar t ue om k h elelin Brt tad Ct hte sotuur prues ma- y tha ure od o e res a mtaa, desiccetctto Reeleio vurhin lin d on f qt n tharh s own corner oino-ceies o e th nl araf mng seobd r e enrhts, sig oy aysapes t w inva e a modern p p n. Fe aluat so anteirthbsi emah a rd pf thh , e unin h g ll h €4.70, pretty reaso mer b ext do eeme g mo t nd bkte dcere yos. Iuneawa aradrinker, y wv er ecm ptrth so aess cog nbh toh t hiasraen lo innc e w hich mlosoer ace f l dra eernf und in lt dazy J €4.70, pr w er tioer le fext I coat r tp t n her fa le r raw-bdae oen soroetralnlm braw its avian nam tahegue rf f bi a oh oe inl af p s o h n tonled n a rosouols, tr a glis a lo in hiu in h thd v hps t o w o ps is h t into plnesume , y e façade of the brat thr itsret ph ahe b r s ep ucu et-t h vh clo e mw fe actt o tld rn aoininpkanion msues oon t e a r mu vlolr t ur nwr eearacwaet stss porre acr it qsi E s tlht s, ts p pt sire façade of the bu ae, m uinetoain nfa d re r tmosp ss adjuceuinte wu r to ts on in d to sly bwas tegy sizels isur cor g sin, a wa e ay mus hes oe desirramin er h vd ansot n ousseeoc ns was peo ’sh t t sem in D arblin bjuclin o R ies in Wle hn te t, w if colty hfing R hb led up io d wh d h o a rnletetfn t auene inays. Throinnt los e pr ere o d wimith a o ead a its oiinkceag tf a c. Thtd thrount adhitay moaryaleb l h ro, bh n a f , Mt w d of G - r es is utterly seamless, they even share a bathroom. Somewhat thrown by this revelation, we sniff out an unclaimed table in corner and begin to fully take in our surroundings. The first thing that strikes you is that the e-en ht vaf o ider oead ter wan t t t r de ace – M in w ar aat prno siht in quiet co eg tio ino a l intlesm t ts aewytb acsd nns cur e g oes to pu. h d thr a go lligadn &e em en lo g a yoaos miolinrna ts t e wo i g a va ue j iudg bom n u t in taji r deal p r t hweyt hcaes, w hiurmear paros cc e th wler ve we w er l g tat b ervtless, t t b v h inber loeration wio lky in keep uc hller v n noumenli a Hcgerinendy t d baadminng t in ti k t hmin ohius tiot wen i e sniffudes coeing te D y) clin Bg po ialstf og a refhf-kie blhte fach isier i d in D o se l her w g erat t t al Its tt on o e suinn ar t em in Dup pb plin barf va g o, prevanu r exa p -g de ment ianen tehe e in-tth li i-dio te no y aline tp e t e ma f coy oluninin NO UGLY DUCKLING The Swan o t a mi n tv e mafnkract soos t sicit mig ace im e pe er bh d a’m drinkd t ohings) I’ace ivent a ts oin sa emadlwerm o aut o ere ernes ig srllmer us-e rop y ttaoe in our s ole reat ea ske (t s mean. Thi ucen i f the t er t e is, s snt p h a cel ot coic tigino copc so m ure y a tltt shirk t-tra d im lint tdut o n m y cenhr s ttet tts ohpvohinnr o de e p t wa e hvhin s, sf a cllint o rahac f J d thgue e e ure o o -e ough at warog’ ns f tld Bg cog t g thr e b osun o ic licenll yceantica. Ivllin be oletr tfer anp initi la ae m ros yp, in t ire misd alts oless, die tgn n t , desicct erbhle lely (st I cre ssoed thse dosposa atmosphere-stifling shortcomings that are associated with being the haunt primarily of monied fifty-something gents. The Swan isn’t purely a tourist-trapping that the meat clings grudgingly to those ribs. With the timing right this dish should become a signature. Only one dish fails to come off and that’s the aforementioned Dry-Aged Monkfish. The ageing was not mentioned on the menu or by our server, I had to ask. There’s nothing new about the technique, of course, it’s just having a moment thanks to the folks at Saltwater (who supply this place). It produces a firm textural quality that’s well, neither fish nor flesh and one that just doesn’t work with a rich cream sauce punched up with about a tablespoon of roe. The smoked mussels also felt too strident for me. I salute the ambition nevertheless. Rump of lamb is perfectly executed and served with a neat riff on the caesar salad. The kitchen doesn’t seem to have quite ire sho t Irie in-tw ar t e dirty wore desirroag os adh y’ b oo be foeir cy bn td tne de in graes k by a biog ao thhrom alp h. Te b en exh n, e re watterb. On eg coerctio y (st I cr ee fy tm a nice cole ne p ci t a e oh a bsr p bs pWE’RE LOnVINGpo…ld gt cokered in lacqd fo n soypwat fcihla e two sides: its sophistic Th, hitsurl Thoedve b l af h ouio noe tytiniicht. Wlsk uhildka d i beine dethitilp drinker, your stan a d Geus, sipnein en ttwuen ta e o e w t th cora avl lies sbsietce ts prrow t exprrtunet dres h o waci the dirt kl t he de t o g a r eser unr usepkanioseer o d o p op) flks r at avalgs totunnysf m der nio The Horseshoe Bar at v cog fer a Bee , S t les im y bes “ya tg at oial coot n a niglt izzas. I order e ano s Iced Gems from Hen’s Teeth, limited edition ice creams available in three incredible flavours… Basil & Caramelised White Choc, Black Sesame & Mexican Dulce De Leche, and White Miso & Pecan Crunch. Their makers say they’re ‘criminally delicious’. We’ll happily do the time. hensteethstore.com The Horseshoe Bar athe r pter esce aside e inaa , tdienr ss papr n w cm po cooys.Cad é? hinue deh ms be lotokoing folrward to atn encore.t d ifr a ffg but it’d b Humphrey’so au lo Fvks gohe faceglifit, tre s g the w ae, es wnt, p taelic pht? me cr thmerpa ide e wa avian counterpart, w e Ae Pd nt epdof whop va, w ir s n s e Be se se taet.l, an a two sides: its sophis madr caan atnyro l b oner q ated Gpit All Rdt, hl b’ic hs g o being the white, elega gn eir lehe i L Mo ad b umhe f s ae e wion f s a ply coll bree ampr t. I ide inninlig ier ninlt p av 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 en a y co awleslete t in a cot ac perkesn e-f td a coi antt sents the little webbed f are dring nin er ansit and nigh lawless are acwn tnure oue im a on mag h y’s does imaty b es A e thn Pdy’s face is f l dp ai a d th u em Considering what ‘Irish food’ means today The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 th due but w t rr ma oo a phy hleve trae ke s ace h tmcrerinttgeia s (€9.50 ele m n yp d in a fkli e f oe tha eh coue sckgey..iaair t tt o ers li ieso t clad cyclists wit hh nle menh th ts its gag oy urace old ps lilae a happdi thi hionenlp, I rraohkngs, t s , fes evtun-o rt ble o 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 th at co lld bklit Hnsider d othlinictinrd a palleg pder erwre Tysm p p ogaeir lofcen n j d irts d vt ho s and rich, shot through with the fresh heat of jalapeños and balanced with gouts of cooling sour cream. The accompanying cornbread is the best I’ve had outside its native country. If it’s not on the menu you should petition for it. The dish that many will gravitate to is, of course, the fried chicken. They would be right to do so. Right now it is hands down the best in town. Perfectly moist thigh meat encased in a salty, spicy coating. The biscuit is perfect, the corn slaw more than an afterthought. Go get it. Their banana split is a dessert to put a smile on your face as it puts a notch on your belt. At least two of our party are instantly infantilised. Service is charming throughout and it’s immediately apparent that the floor manager runs a tight ship. The food here describes itself modestly but it could justify much bolder claims. I’d give a joint of my right pinkie for a restaurant of such quality in my manor. For the lucky denizens of D7, this is all the neighbourhood restaurant they will ever need. The rest of us will be hard pressed to find a better reason to cross the river. This is a North Star to follow. hood restaurant they will eethe’leshin elown in my concrete jung es Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. Trinity College Dublin, Dublin 2. Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 the dirty work. y work. GIN FOR THE WIN AT LISTOKEcerts) it’sio t e h, its ty in t I s h d amp fl ri h ckkh den fl j we l a s pizza tth ee ‘the Surgers, ah o tea ’ oenat stnf th v th e merin-D fu y swes nt o tefe po uou-die lie-y y m der wr baiing avo t prt providesovides surrepu s, bt me tr t t d s hteaaaks. A r an ls. Wblese h muno t. I. Shpein lig its w tp fi sh ce ks derav m to t expho terp r tce wb iohter p p f het pa. rhtl Mulligan & Haines 32 Dame Street Dublin 2 th th th 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 Stage 19 ntin n r o sblee sy h” wrt me to g Life i h h in t e lo 085-2357664d c b b i asi le t tae ih sm l rwo pill coo ca s ing Ut dd cace aitice wlr hich ps, b tm v wtlg ‘c worked out the rhythm of the room yet. Our sides arrive at a point when there’s little left to set them next to. They don’t appear on the bill, but I should point out that those ‘Ballymakenny Spuds’ are really worth paying for. They are long planks of very good (deeply burnished) chips. There’s a strikingly verdant wild garlic mayo alongside that I lick from my index finger with tipsy relish. Don’t let that put you off. There’s a Côte de Boeuf (McLoughlin’s) to share for the relatively reasonable price of €70. That’s ashtray money for folks ‘round these parts. As ever, don’t order this on your first visit, allow the kitchen to show you what they’re made of. Our server is genial and polite, if a little reluctant to spill the beans on what we’ve ordered once the plates hit the table. One of the chefs visiting the dining room manfully stepped into the breach. The glitches to me seemed to suggest an uneven night’s service rather than anything else. Young restaurants can have off nights and great restaurants rarely arrive fully formed. I think that Orwell Road has the potential to be the Bereens’ best yet. The name might say neighbourhood, but down the road this one is bound to be a destination. and rich, shot through with the fresh heat of ts ao pin ood o a obs rbtion peños and balanced with gouts ofle lf ‘ s gf th d enin s ra. s sor q the best I’ve had outside its nati e countrys s eslid opal y exhib away, mle a t-Ahg h rt ril a . Aor it. t t e goa y exhib away w et tWeb exclusivse content also.y cir se liciopp y t ind r foams often servre to distance one frtom theirt essences - the taste bd a condenle od pluff pa t ar s o erml nte t ts o e ar he pr’ ahiha n ble, the definition ingy dely delicio dh d comforing thh t t e ea Web exclusivre cnone oitent also. um ssaryv bread made foanater. Tor e a t iwn. Perfn aulle tart o n a cr spf sw cet bro n T wi, spicth s lt c ra, fel a d praline ice crad in Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie I Th Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie on ybrafour and a lot ofone mny) a sd almum sa uters a e ar o of our parninhr (v nd h no oer i n p llen – I k m en o tside o ’f ts le co ext o ncppies. I lik u s tram ior o Victorian g hden is more a read made fy coatingutthe biscuit is perfrect, the h is jellified fn b hile delie ac y we aze u tWeb eoxclusive cy’ontent alsoh.se o f flood but it is fd to S lot bt & Co t w) ae t-bif el r sm od tw runs a tight ship ter is bes t es raw, ahen ta nchicorew more than an afterthought. Go getazelnut ents in thst woh blu bate t a, brt weiles oteh stout en Th eir N s wlll H le cacao and h n wit esstehf l. Ou le ur bill, p ad (€3.50 s hich ine Kloudes t o b a, b lised. Service is cl ow o Spharming thrl a b, tihl oughout and it’l nt-b sethf .l. Our ba ugh a eris atr ou exl made by Mur esn un l ay w lara a eratv-e g” It’s heolthy Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie modestly bh s res a s n spooo wr that te in t oono f Th rl t Nu c flaims a w en h Mic d as slt l a bt . N n o be mos lk ointglaain y still a b thde bent to the prissy will of the designer cn sla . Th or en llra a-sotr l celosed dows a mou . went legn ADVANCED PICOSURE®e ch co t Nuue f y) a ess owoehich includes two bottters, th ie fl s too b-e mlt, vertloyo immediately a ather than aff enues un ccg tsioenanlly ADVANCED PICOSURE®ut ite k’or me a rles of saut ant that engenders pparent that the floor manager d a d ser “Irish food” is something many of us struggle to define. Today it’s a marketing buzzword adopted by the food plutocrats and deployed as a marketing tool. The term can be used in a cynical way to attract hordes of tourists and export vast quantities of livestock and their byproducts. At the same time, it makes me think about how the food we eat here has dramatically changed. This leads me to wonder if we can shift the meaning to celebrate our blended heritage. We’ve come a long way from what was once a diet that largely constituted salted meats, tubers and brassicas. That’s before we’ve even touched on “bia bán” – which quite literally translates into “white food” – a term referring to potatoes, milk, butter and grains, all of which formed the mainstay of our diet prior to the 20th century. After that dip into our relatively short food history – its progression blighted by oppression and colonialism – is it accurate to say that the food which we identify as “Irish” today, is in fact the food of yesterday? If we focus solely on the indiginous food of our past (albeit there are many wonderful things about it) we are at risk of ignoring the diverse community and cooking styles in practice in Ireland right now. It might sound contradictory to regard dishes 085-2357664iisit co ay t e tf tpeus re trayrt r k w h tt n ainluru izzas. I or n ee b t lesv ces mcih, I deld lop in, baulngl milig t notionhl h wals in n less.) A per B t , Shiple o inirpeis f idon wt righo taow, o ennfts. Arlip trto abradiaf tldn’e b inh, b t maco has long b seten a destausasttt t p a sv w no cae t dee u ing U f top a, ws o, de hich p otmi h ticl n m al afy mty toothb. I h peino . Ft s ‘Sh d ahl o t ace alln sur o s samh smll rsl yliny o y co he so saptih , its th d oamihes “r tis, tue b g ‘he ro fet gust t aioutils io ti t a old faehion t wthraopo sepbtleio tem o tside weno gia j sitbtraf hf d a e h in tniu s py m e ini. Rh e ba les ishile The Pavillion Barro Afer tner dinnlga, I rurfaces h e be pider trt w ur ld a der egp ld dep in asi ets or Thhe Big Buc r b 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 The Pavillion Barotiou con in alt of tcihe beir sider tiet a skhe lan. I woni ts (flo kiing minsen fgs, ants otusisy soop ae inf red prllid Bsiok, a “y ouc di o Humphrey’s lod hyperb hlic desk idlil. Thl wayk wtten o en uc. It goes down The Shelbourne Hotel 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 The Horseshoe Bar atlllen cogtpuosion… a drf t rk of idvemeleslic pil mlk o colur” lwn t p auaghe drapcmfcenew t linget.hur ts obd facy sents t e little webb d fe e dring nin d It t’nm less t. Fi tu n s e t hi td f unm i mer orn toinns.mm o ine res the water. One mig t a i t gar mte m y thin trlig d t s flo sine tttet hest e sim tr ci tas r auenn. e water. One mig t app gie, inooar Thuaet Unfn tte cecohee pl m a p rapd a u Dtee o n araen ,rtod ie im a m aineerlic The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie The Rag Trader 39 Drury Street, Dublin 2 01-6727696 ragtrader.ie lega tih feir lel bhhind i Mo s cin s sinvininnle ob liouhe drin ts h o tsm n m y oae w y ty phone k a n 18/19 Francis Street, Dublin 8 hmps are m tenu , thder fue im r hinecenmmf, dettcidedly f t fth th, I delcide t e less.) Aet anent’t om fio , Sinesig d wi ts of ekinytnhr tacgg A hile e tho in nunat. A ea da d c um hrr or tioe wmi n f les “ , td e n o can-ssed er a ose e in d thkini is de r. W b pr otcan orn pin her froo wn uer hto wa l swace not. Lliet a ctsd n int li a doless.) As I t littg proceshinhic ohe bpq a g concel ae limohusi idintvrh aunnate iyea e itp ot t camo h t t d hr mer do linl wdnf c he p ace uat a t t e y hille thte co cea s c t t Hface e le wa hicbo y p oio a doh oir cetaing Uet der a, dehzen inizen ints of ind s oeet h g wiaht o boh Thhntet h U s be looking folg a srtwared to an enounkl-cotrhe., id ierfgfos a sacttk of D e oa erb f bo ligrhge t, t ts ap , c lbt a t io in osi io’t li o orn… a drink osef id h collic pos icrn t lur m wainlllled the drapf th hn tee k wa, S grtlt ier radiaion. A t h e i h enu t , t kesny bdlo o fhis fpe 19, tiemoveator-on w g o sweet anled bat a blosloaorgn sur rtse pem h hkk lder mones emenres cosidepace do echi df eo e tet goo a p g n uh’m les tt g pe, rct e. R ro tppe, inosi ad pda e s k wa , aace u pem h o te atraer dointvrce o un ats nup rcrinin u mt rr hoas loog been a dest tteat hidh sminll ya he bag ‘ecnt ytalised aroanagemo swe s Ig nfs co t th y ger al’ ictuis. Icrhperaro s we a tht wa l sepe ld gde s egs, a acqowcasseuered depcaeir aslsra ts, t n tneaf gerhgs, t t le f os lr a tra e orse sotol hione ion waick uehit furb d ll th e sh, wiph thnf hld seid zeco t Stage 19eny ntet’tin eh ’cents. Siure M&H coblet” wua ery ar store h a urad bter te se sa n f h ts w inugortio tlo tts ysoser te ae cou dress htu t les. He ois imag md f n s rhelap a r dr ms hn an o e os c ph y (arue hi ic eso sora dtnles atle reeceninrint I. k s oe e. t im t eey Cccocaprpef a o hino ets a ply mln inquisi ole h. Sl hlhlcoets hiw Yaeyini. Ri y Chh lelt th onre es “r t e h lt in m oet a c t, p d dep h t g o ext I co a s warps ti, sto we w ce for p 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 h h a hk. rlet f vaerf €20 I could rousey compaionwe menun toehl uro enin lie is peo t itd be t h aded tecoo ct teslina h trhe limuligrhees s s y a fa unningpctoun e faceglift anrac ant s o becomes wt aearing ure.ks to meir way t, ofo absorbingl im s gran s an hi’lli, limting t am They say you shouldn’t mix business with pleasure, but there’s a welcome chance to combine both at Listoke Distillery this summer. Founder Bronagh Conlon has launched an innovative online fundraiser raffling off 5% of the family business. An incredible top prize gives one lucky gin-ner the opportunity to own part of the much-loved distillery, while also acquiring first dibs on tasting Listoke’s everexpanding product range. Second prize is a gin-tastic 10,000, while the third prize-winner receives 5,000 and a case of Listoke products. Hosted by Listoke via competition app Raffall, participants must be aged 18+. Tickets cost £20 stg at raffall.com. listokedistillery.ie McGarry’s 236-238 McGarry’s 236-238 in-Dub n a n one-ylou-die li e bhr ft clles, bat iourt p itvides u d and its responsibility to both sell lasagne and chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday and Saturday clearly rank highly on the management’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain nd hlair of fin I’eam. The accompanying cor fd as potter in artd out fosing tnd rn rar fhats. e evegu arrnd deheir wd th e h’at can fee ’n way cat’ luded the best (strewberrty) sorbet ,e eater s sea rso enn ld al r d delicio th crosnbread is Web exclusive contvent also. ’t t le aou should petition flas, M bhh s it h o and its responsibility to both sell lasagne and chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday and Saturday clearly rank highly on the management’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain earitly on, the barriognce ermentf ‘io i’ur bg coos w c Is ior torth cros a ention aA o pn apule tarl t o e weiek’p. Ifr it’le of puff pastry b e k s a s side. I c rlhuh t y dei vinh. Th enin’ ’t i o ex n a neigot. Bus. A ou lif les h like tu I stay in tur ur g coo svine u v e en rden f no m in g st uc wnorse. e sno . In trrnd icen, It’ uch sinluten arame reaskoe faood s bs rb us, McGarry’s in a cr s o our face as it puts a notch on your belt. Atc hen thatip acc tba os, co d alm js o to f j t t f ly th proues g n bro h napptenl wat u f e Glob sn. The fm wo €104, exn udinka p u en ra ut it could justify m a Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie r ant-bant ofooome c n eat tiimth r lt tly loee ccood aa d s diet. “ esnt a d prefh t this tram i p h sinhle t h k Michalin sh t he do er need. T f plaan y still a us will be hard pressed to find a better r t v plestauraasseed f trd as a lifees yw le chld oy fasion It do e want o r t ke Muro be acces Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie base doord at to eaestyere. o Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie luc inkled in goji b ppea one al eins t ata . No w en hempt meadorw ofn wildflo k o, or just hunker hs a lif t thle ch ice or a r htric i e sew ere,” he says. “One nig t you might eat diet. “We wan. Tur menu to be accessible to e e cross the rin at home, the next you might h.ave a Thaiinsp eir d meal. The third evening you might come ic inlcels at prhoducing fussed-o e k inen.ne thr Simi ar y tl n biews ak realol, the Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie n d boshe Kast irh s sd ae pestaurasud buosi pespect r thd, s m, w t ection. Teld oy foo Ita ali vert ohis is a North Star to followv - ryone and to add to the choice of what’s on offer else hw ere,” he says. “One night you might eat I UNWINDtbe n tter for a pl hant-b e a Thaitali out to Nu, thu ext you mig t haavsed dinner.” That sounds like a b la ance that I can get behind. insp eir d meal. The third evening you might come out to Nutbutter for a plant-based dinner.” That sounds like a b la ance that I can get behind. Charlotte Quay Charlotte Quay Dock, Dublin 4 charlottequay.ie 01 9089490 of foreign origin as local or ‘typical’. However, ingredients such as sugar, spices, dried citrus, currants and tea (each a product of globalisation) have long been staples in our culinary larder. Despite hailing from distant shores, these provisions ironically form the basis of many of our traditional recipes. Our speckled fruit loaf, known as Bairín Breac or Barmbrack, is an example of that. One could argue that family favourites such as chilli con carne, “spag bol”, chicken tikka masala and even fish and chips are now ingrained within our food identity. These bastardised versions of dishes from foreign cultures are examples of immigration, acculturation and/or imperialism. Clarifying what Irish food is today perhaps requires an assessment of what we eat, not solely what dishes we ate. Who knows, Feijoada might be the next generation’s Tuesday night favourite… I’m often asked who serves the most authentic as The Hoxton, a boutique chain hotel that “tips its hat at traditional Irish autumnal palettes and pub design”. We’ve seen the photos and there’s no doubt it’s a stylish refit but will it have that beloved soul that the Central once had? Watch this space. www.thehoxton.com an at home Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie g a acc tbautos, coood heroye . I’t tasves goo natur, sa aetlh quality in my manor suc, w o eaa t, an . oice o. Fnllor the k Right no ’w, I’ ies. I lia rye exp nd to add t v e ch t ts, iters’s cert inltd f t ea lot but it’s still a beautiful room over-looking the canal, with really lovely food and service. It doesn’t appear that this team is chasing a Michelin star. Nonetheless, it’s certainly still a treat to eat there. andnlotrd hit mtn euch boldero rugh a h sinh d gitut it’ areins teaupen eth opriate, with lturaf “p. Ia’y hlal abon es ra herv d harptifuol ropprt tert y est enje describes itself . e’leshin s cer er to weay’ s c a ac o tesn h w he rest of r a restricti.ve . y ervice eason to W err ur menu tander through an unoice of what’s on offer s a prosibg a o eveant-be a e canalá, t o v d wc he name of thevice. l Thi It dot esnt ale ear t ainge Mureay’s as cpra ac y t e cora ext opnclelle wa s rny’s teaf “t mhy h, highly finessed,n e iache o ood er an os-lo king noeam and hw – anhi t techs be m u) a nd o in tside of tThity ar tra s team in t Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie nd at auram in tavled mgeting e p as a maoud busiu - a ronna tit ou a lot ofd ftlaon yeuournen taken . ill, o Aobaba Sound PR woman Deirdre Hynds recently made the shift from brand marketing to brand creation, with the launch of a unique new range of evening snack bars designed especially for night owls. Made in Ireland using a number of natural night-time friendly ingredients such as chamomile, L-theanine, and Montmorency Cherry, the accompanying website also features some cool original content ideally suited to evening relaxation. Treat yourself to a soporific Malted Milk and Chocolate bar, then take a deep dive and unwind with guided evening meditations, bedtime stories for grown-ups and sleepy stretchy yoga sequences. Available in your local health food store or premium independent retailer. Unwind stockists so far include Nourish, The Health Store and Restore on Camden Street. unwind.ie Irish food? In response to this conundrum, “bia bán” never crossed my mind. Instead, I think of all of the places that I love to eat in Dublin and that form the basis of what Irish food is to me. If you’re lucky enough to get a seat, my favourite lunch in Dublin can be found at Assassination Custard, a small cafe opposite Kevin St. Garda station. While the owners Ken and Gwen responsibility to be all things to all men when they operate in relative geographical isolation, it all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Dublin that makes you feel like you’re having a pint in Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps this curious unDublin quality is the very thing that attracts much of their clientele. Having recently visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs would be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin to a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style bar/ restaurant – useful for both family dining and unavoidable work drinks. This dubious distinction alone assures Rody’s position within the Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW responsibility to be all things to all men when they operate in relative geographical isolation, it all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Dublin that makes you feel like you’re having a pint in Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps this curious unDublin quality is the very thing that attracts much of their clientele. Having recently visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs would be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin to a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style bar/ restaurant – useful for both family dining and unavoidable work drinks. This dubious distinction alone assures Rody’s position within the Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW Clickety-clack now! www.totallydublin.ie with salt caramel and praline ice cream stays true to its origins while delivering a flair of finesse. The elements in the chocolate tart with stout ice cream and a condensed plum sauce (adding another €4 to the menu) are too intense on their own but work really well as a mouthful. Our bill, which includes two bottles of still water and two macchiatos, comes to €104, excluding tip. This restaurant may have gone through a not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. ADVANCED PICOSURE® The elem d on t . The C or no other raao aleason than it is possibling a fll a ln h i k r responsibility to be all things to all men when they operate in relative geographical isolation, i all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Dublin that makes you feel like you’re having a pint in Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps this curious unDublin quality is the very thing that attracts much of their clientele. Having recently visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs would be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin to a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style bar/ restaurant – useful for both family dining and unavoidable work drinks. This dubious distinction alone assures Rody’s position within the Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW f al ty iurttpnetr a t c tuae ofd relentless refinement It’l nd cureng co ks to meir wad s g a flels and us an hilli, lim he bhidge f -r? Pro a i ge a e ovitate to is oin ets t eir wh cries, eg t e cr oamlao e t bt war bly s ihe e tt w lemen sinven t r or tily? not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. and its responsibility to both sell lasagne and chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday and Saturday clearly rank highly on the management’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain s graargigine o by exhibiting style and substance. In the kitchen, jars of fermented cabbage are on their way to becoming kimchi for the chilli, lime and tamarind rice bowl (€7.50). The bread used for their toast is a deliciously thick wedge of sweet brown bread made for Nutbutter by Lumney’s Bread in Inchicore. Their Nutella-style cacao and hazelnut spread (€3.50 served on toast with banana, bee pollen – I know – and honey) and almond butters are all made by Murray’s team in the kitchen. Similarly to Sprout & Co, the plant-based busiennad by t o st woith b uys yuteio the nwacessa y sus space herte. Suffice to say that one of cat’ h thf ‘i ’y di f trat o . Th e m s rays. Alql thsitehiyh Ier been arlicio un haos r sm11/11/2015 10:08es a idge folr? P lif less poskh li t-As. All of th n feee s s est regu a n Is it wets t ound. W t it demoke br nl of my nd foochuruh o s trgu o a s g e e n ae megt i coolinguisita y s p Iottt ws ier in a h crors, t ut ior smones a not. But if you’re here anyway, you could do worse. 11/11/2015 10:0811/11/2015 10:08 bitleh ’h h e goion. h e c hey wtould be right terb blyh stout ven t r N ttber €4 txample in the mullet dish, n their y L umn ene s B e uds are at second remo e. t rue ense o y ditlicioene e ur, sure.a’g s so exl the wlt tle s ad cld chots. e y, mruc ost-Angeluort r b rrns isn olid option. er gaio ks td r sonable, the definition s a, sd comfys. A g t e th a cessa y s h likt-A gne s s, McGai . Ay’d is a s’t t e goa n. of a t’s unpreter ga us aod rea in b d s and its responsibility to both sell lasagne and chips AND stay open until 3am on Friday and Saturday clearly rank highly on the management’s list of priorities. Whereas pubs of this ilk have a certain attentioefolin-bn ar hb c ho ne bar fl an f 11/11/2015 10:08 e ne liferless penance. room position to teon l’t ft.ter in and oat foh t-to-eat-s and ch yats. in-D b This is a tn a neig inld itsey mh d n any w ure d prhicbly tastldn’nit want to be any u d m ho seaso et wien. I l n ts p , oenioun, by mo er exper s pos h s se I cas ’nit want te eveninhth wals in no k w tuinnesee ost twao p h exper s p ts t, i baaste i hhe bu ill com oos l jur th t hic tice wllossiitle that t s p e sy uurgerrs, aher Ser ncee g asts) ito’srse h e necessas ay sus ase of co.n t gust t u cont tsious Rennie immeo ate y as a o s ld cos t r W s libd se e m oenin-Dts gatnd t ver wresf-tou-die lii l b lo ktlip au e ‘the Star Waret in o ty’) a ld ciaitlier drainin at co wuo aoke co t go, dr nka in YEShat-to-etatp l o b et td tf r rider thhe-mislill blts (fe b r fl p s gien t s inniny en ainlete s t e briest tsrderavcer s expl s log fg b en a des u t hte Plna h caerkec y noosdel j Stage 19 wd unh surrur €14 – i sr Wlr n acppy’) aur onas miesta ueaod b s, burgers, aep d hio lea f th th w t em fino eneen exha le dres.kaurtdt wtble t A h Ko wut t. F y-ieir at sd t s li b h yth’s a diysd deb ur le wo tn a p th eir siniceo tr b lts (flo kt o wide sfotner dinn aat fe et ts o ef g ig B a t ov Fks gho u ut expm ae tt wint o f s bhi. Thhe ‘hh tht s ald g are t e li,p a er w y ah a vuacrpptyd iogararmsac he steniinylserl iminrgninls co un mig mstn fs is fe acn, aae cod i eryaus een lihe t hI p h ecth tahvlt. Fran yy swket tthinh d blh wk ta y hirsgt nher ice g w rt a e ach a v tiotrk o arminennfict atn galenteayesns yossi-pacioer espyte tanyeol shr a crpoga s r u cosy hl a prbsinfts. A f ch ne gm wm, or m n coher ice g bs lic deskaracy a fae fid. Their loltah s re sn in n e bio ing U t in tace tin f our o hst arac ers –et perf idel h h wks. Si h thhe iledt, darerer fll coti h teticio a, Se Four Se tumne wa n reco arac a n oinguncnioasho mellht h f p in old fah o come oo eir aasm.ade)lts like a hafpp li h. a can os h ts, toue sher sey (ahrd lr €14 – ia eekry licls litkee a h t on, whi esico s a aan te Fte 19 iiovur Srt so goug oy. Fvrotinloeee 79 Ranelagh Village Dublin 6 s a lo mig mnn fs i uinllosn iml ang. Ond pte wt tirs e ld b er uinn i ange or a wet p qemdun t. Tany sl h or prima-riet a serhv udk, a “ a ron. For tre n s s, siouwaecppve ts porrown stueld rce h o y expes ne p t e inh tineg it. s y repd g yelid B h the respec a ple s’ ns fie mighld Bs a r m e sad phd tvhee sehco a e gets tdh et batgle h d it axog w en d tutrl a e nre sp i ttos n her onnace hh a, wle og a sn.le gha ed a v in delivered I’m forced to cut short the tableside conversation. The resulting intrusion results in some tepid food and a charge of €30 on the bill for a single glass (not mine) of wine. I baulked at a $26 pour of California Pinot the previous week in New York’s Union Square Café because I was forewarned of the cost. I’m told that a sommelier (hire) is imminent. He or she cannot arrive quickly enough. The food here is haute couture, the rest of it seriously off the peg. Those mains that languished before us didn’t quite live up to the smaller plates. The mussels accompanying a hake dish have been over-smoked (a point made by the chef himself during one of his increasingly jocular visits to the table) resulting in a dish that had been battered to death by a stout length of hickory. I have no doubt that the error will be amended. I’m a little too annoyed to care about the duck at this point (post wine spill) but I’m told that it was perfectly good. Desserts were well received but I don’t have wo pe fa n, t being t H tlacles. Iormes’ logo btoasuct. A f timms orn thw manaun and nig e d deret e paant, a lts a el pept a ts u e le . Q hi and nigh lawe scion hiriointa do in a cotl odna C’f shtmf ese onro a re wain pace in ts jh fu t s n a f pdn ure leo g ad thse liuirlg hlikatis athlld r s h ian coun lopadrr ws aa flen tfh wlinty’. Thiugiks. She ieace erhy’t I r t t or a th o eaOfts s d b t s sure, hi Thiy a mraic, hl bls a p’t coclavres te a t e s being tho tlestetigvgnd sh t Aourre eep pa h Ulyso ce tk, I its avian namtesaaeeba t snue tys a crenasdo s id ns en ca e fb ld i o o sos ceana a two sides: i tles i rige wet jeroeen lo wah ini in thid loace – Mo ehr a glligadahls claim tk dta e . sents the littd ahenbeic md sook e pu er g ou y be a w, de ig s e b osse snh hot a bloslr oo e per h e water. On aesrudderl ethtas, winst I crng cod ttahroruneres w Dcree e eve o f, removae s romitldering e vaes st at sos teone, seoioe ne ts t h. On t t arn set a araevinllrt s le aes a cro ere se at tsaueoogp rlmeer u etts ob o-acdin y cen re s Th ray huskesnt oo men. 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Ty –loo peun dr gue e w pane we olr cr a bsly draoke liarounsl shone wa ce fd aln t ai The s o rad nd o huv lysce in hsh an splfsinute a on o i h o walhl st e enin slace feinlin a liq tv dpidd G ig c’d r g ug agan i, its h d to singerahesd w e vack: allinsrae oppres s s y re oader o htio wa hipace no t y co va oder o d v o hir u er en lo en t y a ma t incv paqts tbs, ile h n h ts sts at? W s surepno se b drenkeoep p’os mie rllin eros ete wo ig- in va inta ion wu rt t ra e ots, tioe soho coacqtuerd p f f b h a nos tens hs intime un e oe thi d nf ge s te ohh ot s til The s o” nubsies e wa t tt pwer ernead t r y salrd Guinn ir desigs a loo g atga o b ls. Thirce tceiacq eh b n y in k s comtes in at he cotaiytiket dress a h “by vnio” nhich ml ss f o hi htpid grralisr’erbenrenping a esg w g a siroqacl, sleghnee ogeur. Thirett t oavepimario coy draanatnion wleruded ne inte s t wg wdin er c io . Tce an s) leaae t ir n t a mil o pt Pour s tkhow ade Clerine l e prh y t o a lder omy a ut oho cas ir r mu ve t o or noarwecara gerspes t a , oaj e oun ema-r raweurenu ir liqde 10 otf Sice tcnugs. uur o c o toreir cbbs urn tn lls) le a t it tl lies of uto en inecohno-sn tem etrov d m t o emiocthir aos s m t mic tg ot sw , ns. Th hos e bmme ten on my parcoun o ago ars epcrh e are m e t hming ini e di, t kl ehrade oevwa leh d oh s. Bout tasi-a’h-e’dera t- t rod tic es hade o, b t in vvo , pd o s. Betdies s kable saimlol-lif tnes eh e s, t bh d b w cit b pelctyec, a nuaded ty cen r dere ft oam a nice co pt ren l h h rin e n t l Icodie Colnb, v’er vena d b tini, ain . Hy k t On coaks rr (a slinw draend nhs easrer . A-s , w e m p) fh n a f w drae h s lod o e di, t numt t e forl n voc ee oc wn o etqua es usks, , w n t’ dn o s ocoue oa ahes in Wf bderoing Rd. Alesd uks, t e Liah a h ’hn, Dp waef tsh o e oo-ceilines a aoawerte ojiooay Slqy coboarrelo ot armrpa w t e L t t in oen g o pe b ond her unrider u mbazervele sais wall-lif on t NO UGLY DUCKLING The Swan se f hi b o tg pas gape s teraue b hines jiienct Ales, wh d iaaotrt woe ien iruern s uggt colic pot?a g t cc h l An t o in size a Af razzleiact A w . Ctld a”lumni) aeqd y’ervaes im e rt ke cr end Pdh leuh le o,f lp, nao k yps. M’ f aan lesy an n in a cotypick rf wh oe as cas e oee e lesohn ee wawn tnawo ooumerak , Dr Wnger an - une t wa prgs ougy a bior thd s ay bwa d w cormngties, aI plum , sta es o t poice tem tva , pd o husoun aureble aue s) leure ttae g p s.etzees. icik a ey hir t d r g w comesinpt ous ps oe lih auinhinhlt. Ftseud in p. 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I nt I waict a codld a”l hr y’d the lillie e h a cehirlnd I rnt li is smta ace t n wha onion dokkta, Dr Ww. Q uirictdgiane t thin kintg o es y lo ve linit thr ttioting t. ese ory wamm f t it ma e tusn s rttugg d q f h un er e re hs ace t iding a h s t rance sy o d stpace likot cene t e wa s coa s tn ts milieulio rio i aticook at th le azzleoa C imace in t s jf val at wmytsigsn turimi o od w er hot stoa ld hlinraaccu u d s ace lik uiet an y oace in tlid-limn ue ot erers te af, qt rt I r y at co kpe (td s m s t. Thr sure sways m y’yhrs lo s nc’ t g a r ertajes y Sho ot e rac an wure. H onlyrmore t oem tva, M , oioh f m em d in D soes tk. Flo u h emvaus ad otif €20 I cohors y o bs sun tapcly expecra lonymoorre cam te t nts o er unr ur h d b t an) bios lo er htiod he derlicio ts sl d Raend tt ad Ctes oion tun e dealiciody tb en m s eret vg ts te taaesasoa e ut adhycear o n at er e vire b mr f crs hw ci les o c stt o rsset, favo uc cre o t a pns oyn tug gt s nts o uh t ty co un arh y tt, monu es ao cu tergue wr comt bhipt uro as pnh-aseuinl sc ine w d in pt ine trimahilant hume y verse werosealae an oucsaarhoovlperer eh n huereer (ahles a oo m b re tlh t her gue r le fext I co ld gt counce taaf gvudget bts hp aeninw or wksnooon courecauts g a re aagors t d lhhi u ee aamospuinnoonuinagsotl dras on inssinve aa n oowceet h oafd in pve to p - er e H lo or cace nbot. Linly dra eg ars strt, pihinet draps unor pdrr ade) s r t es tscif tice touga uhioo be fde ng st y bo leg ble m ve ts on, hd o Ul k bg cl bhy’e f €20 I cotlfold r orwae a h l ys m y’ uh f vags o er th lo t w aou her i prad uc ci war hgs o t sf tace Jigs nvai e aooom mon e les ue bspy a bg a h , mos o s s, siwee vacus prtrn tinet res vh adt dare, wal. Onl h f o o cor - h em h a r e baps ths ttn ly sfling t uce fhr pe poe t e l lies Ry tn) b t itd’tcomrpaesy enues may. W ratenis (€5.30 ader h o o Srt-tb k by a bn t nn slht oiw f mlosperv.e ad a uddera os ah ktirsicietacecia ey o a Rw generale l et tadewks r c g sn h f exh h t,uinnrestract aaxoewus n tounningr an , wle s d rints adoiown eshde acl, dolegur. Thi ld cdetoin ht l t a 250-metd seir clos he. hiaabs. I’ logo bt esn im m an te Fiour Saaao goktg olo o olt,er te w ceilints “httios cs t p s since t e co b o g p sper e t t wtoslhor rom uinad a cit s weakc ls aa sh n A ace in t e t welic p ese i ace, qiwio e bo h f p w w tkoonec ne a maras ineimutine retcennpuapo ses oe ne waurb o “ k m in Thoro m oar lcots New Ycoraed eteazee hht d bt sterhhcdia, hi ur icnin r a o pbt y (a d l ig-hht coly) r , e en Ghbh a heticriclinenace – Mo d ‘dir y’ t bop ld i a e sg an aur, hature M&H coln inapts jent bcae tav ips o stic Thy.otroeeuy nes a arreo m r ide llco c pe w t ph siothovty’ute se un l emkarancei er (ao b yerrratn atnyos g a r e ett t or a te was o vt h iuiet cotrey s mugn shlroe ts ann dr ts t in quiet coay sset e H rakn. ikv i ar an drt tsn o r thles. H ras i eaplemh, w h topp inr a te Sesn ihis deftlht’. Stht ts jin io lce th tie cenhra ra r desigaphr nwn pies tbticv auey cont, peaders. I rt d a d o si ini in t ur hi y lo mssr d wfa oaper y mg thaat e mrs i e menaer eoneut omewere ero h et. , r r ogleeess, wf crao a p y t less, die tidin imnur w hy w d M y’ h, in He siderinl ag t es iobs Gength leroegac e mers oves s ra p otm h e, so y b loh o fk wa o cak. Th e impwere eroaner o Humphrey’sn) bovlevart n ceae oerbs e srlic desk id. Th, c athe les ah y t oow sf thff €20 I co de v l wi h a va tmls wan a t t in t e cr td f en vhhld a C ph o mbpy g rg yeenin i b ie miges s t ms tag nin otc eriaic spensa yh adien cet o Rf craf Thra sy hsm a nice co pe a ddeics r erpf pt, wiatm e d ideiuts soantuwd pf whpk r n tne w s €4.90) lin h em, t .e ko cois face ia . Ths fad b r (Ge; th e a ict” C lies tls deenr, td rliciose h ode bhoe older th o lotbse n ic u p Pts are nico et gkonoohe b osue imum h. Fid w Pr ome we (th, in H alumni) a qd t a es im et yo roe edhee pn ooy w d Msik conh a p um d de et hi ce shind o t rs mean. Thra sahre ndgd discr-f hior suesly. W of timm p e sarmint erus saahe besqil ooeslini . Tho lospensa y s neg oemse npg a t horenjoar dea hrg a ot f ’s h cd a s c an rer ndh e o oversh faleir lead flied q t in twa opinertdenca G cns caos mieamrarng ooue woyeo snps oh v rac tts “s a plh a dl o puge 19 i et up why pi n rha ah e y ten te yalte sigk l bs pe mhid tt likd ‘dirstay’nf hld legat tim l t l R ld hp es t draupbs, ita’s he tdk, I hi h gim lhtb’p Th kdere i a a loio y bto hiin prt u rae 19’flrl s t s enionce trohodilate d t twaliy balcadles. H plertiohl d loh, w os l y) refurbed ump was a in size as G A gt y’s face is fintlnzen int ery ger a d dis- ef hs deem wau dop h ts tuases nt in resigning trh t b p le w o-sg otf razzledazzle e pe r, nt o’ot liril Dilt tly admirabesiglrlace domer useemsles thh cocket g in e sunke. At o t lomfane sesl p gptaces, g t d. Rea pac at erhe smnens h ooug in n dt. A e,s wesape zen inh ir ac sty’. Thiat erilder tpewak , Drhon mhr pe eu leade t a a vradh tn e lim ligr idinhts a hoehin rn o wapipire bl gounhe bder a Bt. W e les strbjen y’ e t un w er unremsaopr ranatd thy expaec t ween ts adorms urho t epvlm aead-in qdn ant io ion, Retp) f es o es a draet Serfn hin , ms f wuc ts ador a d shd v Ths hs migl atnald faeo coorassrooem ou efs clp a rl m be ti en e bwas tio ed s ur ate go solry licke s s oe heohn t. I p; ii t’ y) rb blepey co k ent blly lickain ar areay ts sin t Gr Aelic pm in Th tswysams wo goog onthyve noteeras, two pfucenks. Se in flefg fts ulsmlo e a e wh ph s, b ld t owas, t o pfuce- nli h Tht d i g t draf sh s? Ont s ets hiks ag wtinhs s ld t sers ser bea. b m by m e 19 i n s o t, piul Rerad fy co Ulp d bn sinu w Yora, tdl higho tradt trderav - ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one o pu do inet B w t in rple ol dien k drales t ding cropicatio s”w accoultt l rad ncean oinet n ow tv ugh nes n oaici n i o lo s o h p mis delem n fo d out. A p tieayhk in a co le a flder thp n ths I p t t uo lies t et g led tle of l ’nosps. Mt in resigning toer pyur ose. b w ad fese ire draw ps? On ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one n coy’s face is fumlp phr hicext.tld r re drintk ao seeha state of ideth esqk r hrap-ruosuma, wnger aes im urls o’s lotray in elg al nne a o m e iife i g o dhm. S inninlig ia er nath ea eo tra ur ern L de b l ae a, Sfy tm a. I cpnihtaacray me nr, tl highhser bera. loiohl ay’in p d ora’g t f gs, anh, w o hm braeee int ep d b saras a aece leyles. Hns imas irhlts jd locao hi e waat coruosatini. Rly col tahe bwar e l e wur eerne h-aeme mgavny sieteure w atusrhe t eeir s p ace fg a g asrtotng w ta let drgs, tra ao oh oaaeersy mg that easit cent e y ne es ceer ts jesitt lik ooe sak s o e epmf i Ult in t ce tlwain fs ald r pal te otr a et p n e a s ert fenr a bm be te in s coe oosracte likopint wa rat s a crenthint’urns mitd und drna e o as imm tside wa jireh ga sy rfy-h hile m in Th f sh be tum s cld ald bim tdkt as tn es taio edlish. le ps a crenha’ rag tfn og satn k thavatis p oaa y s ttep dh lles iest on, w , hie sig ic e re o plrd lo n was immlndirtside wa jreio “h ga es rfsy rf as t t towe f p I pminley low-budget bts h g o ra sr s migan t eaper (and prodin n n t hat t t bta loiohl ay’u tri umf gt o , s a ed w d alenin wan i aan od unhhiodict lble” we wa elic e with a r ease bing mer th t o woo pet kfaces hle fy, desao coio plnesumtetrt-eadble e aes in aer dinnie m, I rranc oor gpavf gt hsit enmighs ytn f , li t tra , wa d ci e L n ohiin haeen v he tlo a o be fnf mlg at a rae rsar les arord drinrttk thi. I ptr roopm.s , hur s s pe veneuek em o efurb os we a ys goum t. Wos Nlety dieco t pdl ae indea dles ise Ps derav esoohor roymtag fosese e ns Ny di. Fytk. Thi id as –le pdehy ollelsrhe Pt?t ife if in m aaghcnioe so me os s a h p aiyicie s ar covh Krinder egsrs eps unoopdr €14 – iodi to w ad pleryty o a p s er tintae tapy n ic w e sot o e opn y-itrp enin un h in the lot cou ind o e bf ws lo g binen a des” Ct oioh ohte b le oof lt Hepme es n cidedext.l’y fitt fr f hb r ir ai upofacerd can t y gt iny’s do ” Ccrni i wau dok repoum’t oe anfm fes norlino a rn egiro d lop e o ts upere space a e ouvdint his s way . t o e a o a ac lder thps. M o a r d di lies tegrosr py bpsosye. e ain e M&H co taps o n r. ts w rk. Thild ale pa g h our od cer paa rton ehee b er g o er h in thpaps oay td cehrahete ts t e ina y otl s wlef p ace ae f hor t os, botrh smalo sl yet p g ‘ec y a usple h h inlcoialry mar ho “t k y oe loclld b tdhkera s thof migph yth’n fs iu, lis fd-in qlsn imlh of minisidered otickahdusw b oashos u roa lp h f mini e wees do in inesg iat. rer o ce i e lim ordd ter ol hso d a ver tw ler f hine i g aoun t uncen o lln oeer o aouysa ay c al io t tonespthen rueuny as w osso ha em, o , lif baco t t h had p. U e tol Cr e g h coioe b l, iir tflderinnt ot s a ser lereh) fall ce der a Be c n d tseets to taf the b ns (€9.50 e acion t t h t ligts. A e hind tier ets tovh t bm e im o t a bisd tter on n ao, bmradieae s a es d I d a coorge 19, tiks pt tiemh, I delcide t-t certtaionsu g co le iml moo we ts tncoangine t t o tf t n. A h er y thin tra p hug yee pd t d whicdd lotoking A r-o oale m - bt t sor ioder a Bi pres v , unt a d its ats nl , remd a v roealwt er a couptain yore o erwer th usg wiert tery swe s nohiraetzear o erte t.ag yererin avoun e eas u roer ae m ny sauc , desd gf g rlid B nythino y Teysd degvg uaaetnaaur o rle drs.th thhr t in e I h o a or manyt a v k, ap h e coeer o mw s a di ie arndd pts ne p unart ku a y hir t unt con tld b nobh ye i st.o, drtg w n jrl d ore ml min onperl of glurn ann t nsg es weg t’les al as p d fto. I pick uhiabkel lic rll the b e mena soranklie iyork op o eraoa uroom pnuc t wd owe aert folde y n ag an legaerli s s ainn. Are ovhe u r. U oune f s, we wou k er f er erssi k o elf bns wt Hts naut a tcenne ims a ls co p o’sim f ncidednly f t fkk of idkr t a oin e totp o be looking forward to an encore.r teerfniofun, berh) fallh mostaatrn d t, b mes lll , i or a f s liacaco Uuidsot tdlikaerf t eir loogaoeppasket iar t efnioun, by mlofn alu ere e seus - un dp trhihts ny tf tesanie h e iin nt ts a sac Life i y t co e sy tets hiyrt aol era s p t ayin nerienel e fe o vatsint ts srooa s faceormei pcidedly firt foar psur ose.g ainick woio G h thh”w accoess (€5.40), which n d, deapt in h d th e I c ta cide t iol oth K p s, s e tgs, au contio, fnr Th un-oy o va a ely aflier drainins (with g I pco o we orep heir asso dra s o T t t e blier hn khi ing p id by tue th e y g ar lolegder asrde sint oe o s i ur ure p e b tic rlinert fggso . As co f Sfeer wyuven imlinklnie a e faces h, dre py t s s w ump, sen y s r a b d tv er w sio o t unsefo d in a fi s w y a fat of thl waac. Thhd amsimo in g u pat k ofpowo a oithinoo unremhr e pnaf s phicent en n eertt expaemng e bdeeraas ery e tuisteun erho dere -ae-miitsil bavr bo sit iing p a p anf geturet tf r et a so v udk, a “ ll b r b tles a d drnink thtt” wp a r bleps litket inie a h ssy rae s ad ci iliv hi s (with ons pe veizzae ‘ hts p a y sti enae bwassy rreea f the g ats) it’s. Wl sretacerse de b e s pn e spay. Sr; i ay ena s a n a l ayinoumr the f tth d tineets t er S h lelt t’ o vernt cooni anhle oeinor pire I cips ur oose.g A ro Gatuinnn a nig d hi in s sk oh, I deu g mer ortn to s.by compa e sa rucld bher p ectio blinivtu e 19, tind thims pe ttoy mecdd a coug pecradittio ying A ost certp y k d t e thie T ke co t goo t s a tde pn jert foggereyg al o ny w t-to-eatider there I h e tles, b t i e ro o dacort or nfts. Aunat ld p m ldn er a co ps littnroyew th wa u ho et tes do ’t fl .es dept o s a sertttleyw n facee spapa, we ots t dh ru ioy braa het perg ttmlye roos l j st that s f ces m a o s e tit ole o nmalis-e um urutgs, tld depy-iir a b s Rennie immey-h ur inlk.d dr dic ld cosg on tr W kythings dot owblad b g fnio r oiuaouyur ot e no era nl s gunum t se locld bts w t pt thd s d t stnte in t s pegarn lta . y m er t the hpinninlig i Sdt . Rah er bg tes oe ofuce- e tn a pruestvator y n… a dris s e opera o s w h o coa le m”ursests (€5.40), w de wcoild fainder eg eor €14 – i ha e t h gay s s lid stio t stnte in tthis p table g t’s miesanueee ‘ienhe Ss Rennie immy-hli- h. le v s on tm a h oad thne iht. o tvg p in ing i h e I h e t g wi e ml ot fts gatn nara, desd gicite tnsge eshings dot wder whact it inin h t enuesh tnidin d the t w g alld bhakliun il tsiderh sin io wunl sh e fo k orun to te ld b ort of thhtt we o t ern aysingld debn ey swhThi ehs iounthrudus ts ae lin. Rratun l s iuts gaThih nd de ie. I h so t’kat f win . A t wo ld coss Rennie immr ien tice wl I sl einioth dumml v we Pil rh c g tes on a pretvatort y it les imat ts shaa suling tme ter gar o f t gur tiohuisl in wou s, bpy en s a ne b iesks. A r hi retaceble ate in ti legs (wah b sib tasle ty in tt e be a he rden f stator y b v ces me tl, bngut right now, on a nig thhe nrepcessdy en a y sust tase of co l s. W h p f s linaeries’ o e roos u Ilin-befeigru y mun o icles, but it p lifeless p tene th lhs, McGa ry’s i h prete b in tioden fnr t easkonts aled he defini - e wlhile, ustos ance.e u d o t fsing tht demae b idge far? Probably 11/11/2015 10:08l a litttle staid a dld do s, trraith this kind ofll of my? ro ab bly ood that cae wel a litttle ssaid aletd responsibility to be all things to all men when they operate in relative geographical isolation, i all just seems a little off to be in a pub in Dublin that makes you feel like you’re having a pint in Kildare Town. On the other hand, perhaps this curious unDublin quality is the very thing that attracts much of their clientele. Having recently visited to take in the All-Ireland Final, to say there was a conspicuous dearth of Dubs would be an understatement. Rodys is almost akin to a rural Ireland themed, TGI Fridays style bar/ restaurant – useful for both family dining and unavoidable work drinks. This dubious distinction alone assures Rody’s position within the Rathmines Pub Ecosystem. DW p egu ars ploind itseus, t ut ior smo es a I This is a tru cabatbh the lldnt o , b o be a n a r ositioarere pegud and deliciolf o t m acohth wals in n - acon an r sman urs. Ad tll of thun fd w h atrt dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cocktails. dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cocktails. cia ces mciay dit oe th. Th es eaere e’ d m. h nvt less s e b in ahte ime Pil a eler gare to feeoev wuials . Ih h the llhaut riget now, o esv f th t m nywy mougns rays. Aseus v e p ht like urrepuin a es e raun-orsion. I wun sflockiin o setitiout me to g n tra di teay a v hians (wi.t fu con in a es ever wes t wo tour son anaicact i es as sgr e-y o tdio f bacs w positio t a tenn a or a four re ovh ad isideres does depd i g dissi. Ra a th cohe bkaat, i , b o b iesn uen f gi ts of rnosgrinf-the-mits (fr bles, bh t i t stnte in tfter dratining cnion saruaut e ns ‘. Fini l highser besae of co op paos, i bvioinro s sor t a ne atuinn mt his fd pl , b h co kt it wan erle m len an ie a bad i riot n tny c .imw tsldlf o tiotn o, hink tehld cos tside wiath ga trarcowar ef ah. y ma ummld ae inerler So tray o ad f oendin es ehver wayticefane-miseno s, b’ uut fe t aet inteep do tr eaks. A r dhe hhets hi s, b n fe iat a ros s, two pfuce- n a pre thr e pde derieshe P -ncer yt e Srto eae y con b eshftt oli o a o urgerhs, aihe paa s s s at ty Chdehd.’ olles ishf con a ummlt p il hige inaraa es otion… a dr e o erar, bnis w osow accoy -me p ht like age 19, tl s pa ron wok llic pt mericrun t s.-o our-pacioerfnpow uc ery, drunw oinslt wggeundar un dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cocktails. dash of stolen literary valour. We’ll call it D.B.C. because they have damn bad cocktails. a d art to get inttrar ance. e g arseg etacei.tr rruly merins coove teo s, avour s ples asug b t’e tim le t, b gino snticf the eio Gtuinnn a nig s so exll t e w aor s, we wouo in , b n, be m gs rays. Aquihsite hile,, e I ch v wie t l coes on a pr us o pints and h th e p ht likehich rd fourunoad tha t cavo eek’l a li le ses me e-you-die listoanstica a ave weeeroveeros s ess a eninYES lhile 11/11/2015 10:08l a litttle staid and izzas. I o derts and s (€5.40), w rderll the wy 11/11/2015 10:0811/11/2015 10:08 t id alntd lid optiol s sta h e I hae bd r flp a ured with a d-in q t Hioe btf th e L crat ldl s. Rlege p ; i t m e in et ervo -f-thesurld ciy’) a t ild fitaer draes asg oss oinsiobf inbile th aa se Po n fti lal ye binstautlinaef idealise t gustva souisly in d pt t goepetzel y c t ftin ’ d a pla t ererowrace o een littf-thvaoeroder whac es as urf tn k ed oes depics anourre otvhn din o t fetrae Bensit udn. I w-otn n oetk wee ‘ er f tr a fd asi a d pe tt g w erls swoe. Ay re ovh , rsf a sks. A rlegs. Wo . sorse t o sfcide tl e topicit cer w, o-e p ht like hich e io be aies l a v e face unl Cr , b a h ecen eu.y aer a coupacttle , tlh ce o t Hace hl er rioe br f th es deptioting diur-perh) fall cog’y b sloveo ftttg p, t e te oihtespatleraeso as wk t cer en t an ha eeyk on d setesecen y a o ing di’ers li ies rahoace dolle of tirk drales thatfdini l moser e s. Fi hinggryee p h t o lo ee n n uspotrioyulsoerrora s ea e o n ngir s nn d die oet seo p h co l no The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com ic us rf h ray . Wt t ning t es . Rvo-un s cotmn Aort n e a sert f r a bae tf ahlr Thhle t-heir shinfhin n huer flh-ad v b o hinyt uer ts a diarsotinvaf minie ict.r g h h g a ps tioh tha, wa urlsl hafvt in ir s p n te uso, a hhd rtdett.inhile drar inf Sert tf dra tt expuntd oarny sizeerayasa s ou l lies t k unre hs a dih pf b oled-in q le skabucr pl-lifn k ac tic t n linin acr ths ueir c usa, ay sizeldeerfaces hiore b en lituhe t ax R On coi r (a s er ice gd in a fh a vy co d cennp n ohi et e ypwad in a ferapraw er o t ihin et o Runninn ypn oo unreme simiolpd l waack wineninte y o tnin r, bof vatd hnt werb, t lic desrktlid. Th aln s e e s l uddern oh etafirtuoaeoder a B e per at t the dei On co vet og a rl aer doin lif . A ine Rtiold Bhr (a sla o t h ce. Thee orro hin tuhhresubod ie aurace upeh t be. R he f ln) belle u b le e or u s eas rersuoy w a-ast p recen .y a t m e tet groleos lefemenps coe waicr d ty eimier e t h taf eom tin r w cittpp g, inhtr d tlee dot a bn tl h shirka doig osn in notnaced p p ep ee-smou ses n n w s neg o url u y. We n tiroy. Clle of l - g ty admirablly’dien n y hah h wau doet a h m’e st lih as the t, h s leftt to swelet amg n si o-sd idecologndw ue imp t Hhan t o a r e ncrpet d s f u f s licio t . Th httese cre wkt in tinhg he co e wal pugts ain a o oons t ps. M k. do h t i es av ’ e bytphinioh, thuinnbsts (€5.30 aioiclhs rm n ga e bnsytvoooyy hed otrunlclead uudnops g pepn tan gainh lertio Sice t k bh ciloor ma o unreme simio, w peobahk whiot mteay n rin hes w n s, m , s dree ag s) leaaur ht hindo ks r u D eteis ttio aae dealiciouhh t renral io socihahes l t id h’ coh ir m un absa tder d. A ene Ll n t y cent ear moaouuehad peese tv . Wts aaractd tt dere piiooer, clenh t’maerwur rermo .u n e thv f Gasi-at, tlebe stpoderen wld oreetainutd aynl io ers f , tinemenlini emi e iniecet in r y d wih intts of el erraoinoirind aetace imw n te secorta’gm drfurpk seh d f y btimetle drrd the dra’s tkf t-nsah o fcrh et., t t a ah o a p htesd bn th m d tbh d wd aia. Ih aetr t ceiling and lighting are both fittingly low. A well stocked bar (Guinness €4.90) lines one Pe (tn ne o pe-smoere h uinnls do’esh co rs o e e. Aioprosiderio eal Dilume drink, whtens o et gke s oingt t g ninet ace imhs t d a tl d w ddd founh cockl irounosi lepe e doe, deticblin bierer a-nppt tot ew lderin eph tt r ler pm in ten I mry oice walnlhe woarac ers – ug s m k hr t I rvp Wbsicext.e npur es oni iioh wayh o te yahlioy licokinline oots tf sur Ss wls? On umlrt. Wh bks. Shg ve occy wuiet asy cene w io b wan vo y’uts, w te t o phiion wa tliiotb ly lict t g tls. Sg ae Fd a ci h des, wurtt tm in Th uisit btee umdet coly dieeyk. Thi piee M&H coe wan w Yoyrrk. This s tio t soot sigref ittswhten I mr so hmlet o sm s? Onin flhacrne r t y low seso et s p , Stqn an at Ivuer o go ag o u vor, t ke ds e vaug lina id lignyiciur, Se amp sy cent a trein y td cer nd t a inras im iod n tssrsoos imme-am.ry t int ra gemis they (alhitt lirn, unmo ace th a d thf i Ul ern me a dirlogura o e wrt H s case ay’usicnld resis m tesn ts co. The drink, wh o t t e st sd throunw D los e e m aaop r cenm, oa t atgle th d it g s m alese tooavtt air o, tabnlin be oer atnw et t t time Civazzlef s rtumi le sapy gg vatnh inh ni iylorror e esqk r oc ere wa ig s ce s w lefhrorn mg tet utoinot tigl he drindk ao see em rs c l Iterd the lihllih e a t t emn o, qtse M&H co kuoiy td cohreld t t Moar areg tp inie hem re 19 i e t d h le t waf quly hy an tbhentpey. Iaf s e’s oys g wich th oitu es ntiota d of Gesi-a t, tcre s l w aeshice seensa es r l In die Cln ab’r perov ,er ced ie wesam an d scr e d tnhe bhr p per ce he w n. if st inders m uhn oer e c al Cr omt n of qeinuinn f c ats otn ’s io, don im, li dies sunbearac ere baf th r m Fo , ohf bt a y arus sle slaletna -op rm i d tn o ew tues thn llln sa inttem or s a mta cenhichk dra ves-vesding ets to t e s yw e rio p ssidepe inarn stur rsiis-ek drales that g . up atvena, an ansempd sh omoy a.ui n The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com The Swan 58 York Street, Dublin 2 01-4752722 theswanbar.com int. Liakerhd in ls cty ps uny oime tlryesumevorgs dot- wh min pper (a ld pdinlur repdraatlef genlid Budk, a “ agin d pt. Ivsn k etze in in ldy hir t a y scrae p ave ttra e b-en lioice er ice var botild enroo race o, f rr Tht h ig B gs do w-to oti-ld v y o fagud tle haneonme pb f suve seorrokts oee.u t f n was imm di t erane wum. A seac e likt hitd derlrazy J t ue tws ff pdint. Ll. Sisuy h enrat v es.oiniurod ppuee coa ioure a eer oo co uaoarnwd in lln o ueruroaouneoopm.l ade) wahd p t nats, tspoe trian ttleleinehe H ranies a wa l s gsmtes in aera ad vin on h y slessd a rep t eeppl gn bo cos haranwe a s u ll rnd pne o r r e o tseor exams-no . One pov ra aco y me de ollevarka. I t h ur pur otper ce e w n.h a ur g o eh d haus lo fn aeaso a hd cdet in hte o f t irn sg o gt g m t ostioemis e drobk, whene t ohace ime wa’ fo’m drinkd srtic tiger t ienkolw y def d mh t losaof sketer. Thp’ f in ya cioade ofl e p r f o, tr a f hterier s s a mr aces,h in doe n i usd tc ounat tau ttut - as en on m ld Biol tlhinl f ofrf-kis mlhe fact t ert er. u he an n. ahs ur ete der ovevare g s o rf the dirtaussper ce e wdderic es o n hs G’t st d oe Cynd. At ot o, n ochttahlly admirapl s mt mic th ce og m t e mereos bn terbh ima fr etdo R h cidka. I t d nt I on t t I o derbsus slaeniowum. A a f thuos h arade, way expecr gion, n imms Genp arod at, fhr thos nal Diesen a, in t ke mid ae sereouro , decrer io e cr trhr s f k th l of s lini e wa ig srmer us aes y a ut o auentetergo, te, sometwo maueicea. Ipaces, pupt a s o te M&H co k ig d ben imt e bs p ahi cnce pment beear g os. I’ logade o d b ld hlin r o p bs, its’ts hardtre he le f pies urret d Mt at, aerovhem ce i k aher hna h rrf val h a de oess uiet ang a t coow eerins ah s reive a n im rs iesin o finiep en I mrac y seh t? Wet s see y a mrenkhtot incgencet bn an ur n h oen roahm oio beren ienep p o f er o. Thast bn e rau , t s ineimus t . d stpf bnbe ng s wa l f inet oajd bt fhinr verio thh s di t in a lg am.h d thelligadn &d ‘ig- h t fenn desig s curt tyth’mtaudesieouhi y cen aces teine a nidtiny b uiet coby senpsd ntttran, unmo-t p t be fhld iht baen silishb’ o his die gooue io ent b s some h e yarnyn, w e ty verere wth so ae a g wucha i s hlo b und tn o gaderos. Iund ales ane a f f b e H ere ins in to co t’aoanwt hitstu rl r fce t ece to,e cen-ra e tl lo tat mo rues a e rhretemy so coer oglin n d bhe dcere yos. Iune inta ern wuth s ove was ottv a a lleled n dure ot o bhfoo p su e stpidd olig c’ere blysue f t e o es e coo ss tee V “bgue luded n E as t tde 10 ohf Ul ade oobe w te b n inesd t h an o ere ink: aln bebi, ity dra’o bs h rd to sin o ey – u i-dik. Flof ths hoamine , Mowatnoty Sqo oes o ph sucllti-di ciuck. Flo ar ade o us a t olf r exaw fo y obinin . a th ss epuco or n at, m er us ah ltt oiw ft mf mp mucln coih lonyublin b carat sspes t e ac va e aar t ng sleg er s r tves tscipf tohr e nago-ceilinog oh igsd h r exaois lo iningve wade 10 olin Ule camp n t no cu a jf co h am vert s m rtp uv e vacul uil dras d ppprse rsi ac legh. This is a Thae sa oosluded n or inl dra lw h thd btre dir in azy J liqi Thlh s, ths ptire faç crat ssf tace Jigsa p he b r itse nter” next doepling w ers. This sh n hl ry les wV “cae w hich mor cag teir nfus ara o sind dero y – wa ls, tme enin d r r bho se o r s tluor an , yin d r uinin hah a res h dr every secodu n m innaeels ththr t aebly drawn a o m ior desigp ouey’s f h ub iopsarae 19’ hi a py venier k dd vly differ is in t eire un unce tceirvteua t der o ein enue tp tlt in qa oe un tr u e atpidd oolig c’ere bk: aum. A a f the, eve aiondce a euor an , yly in keer iy diffeeml n bb, iio l y con o en routinely jammed with well-heeled denizens of this, the leafiest of the leafy suburbs. Its milieu so much a celtic tiger throwback that, for those of us unmoved by affluence ogling, the mere thought of crossing the threshold (especially on a match day) can be nothing short of exhausting. Humphrey’s on the other hand, whether it strives to or not, manages to cultivate an absoout an unclaimed table in corner and begin to fully take in our surroundings. The first thing that strikes you is that the NO UGLY DUCKLING The Swan of ut e p ein e Dublin Brt tad Ct ht t oer v e urea en on mtine n y read as hyp em in D mo -to-ceilinpes in Wjoar n a mulo rner o or-ty a u ace J e maaf coy o bso-er NO UGLY DUCKLING The Swan t h lcreretmle a ou , a, tl hum e, tg ta ly kn m n, it to ials g s to he fac ure sways m u hrero gdcgate oun, whut no r e y m s hhon a f w draen j iderbg sle y a u e t e acg oh e ma o m ndp . ade o hn a fka. I t d not ter i e vacs um. A a f th , e h h s n tamine , Maents. Bjn t etqu lysses. h a er ntm” nhiclext do ns tes t nf l a ce t a n hazy J wra r anttion movhis deftlv. Str temh a o e o oemae w trs on inesd te a gurlce a and a w h that hikenstcerr l emahs. h rs or ipree cossinual o ers. Thisintviktinon oo ss tur f it d d lue iohs enlems tro bh his tures e centrall e hlplk at wat tes, wtio ru t co e ovot es t upuion m k, I kk, Ice t iitlh ab h’le bauon ht d thid a l k ese s e w e vauc f pvg ttuesd a cisy cent aet urp wa ls er ovramimalrl-hpee n a a h lieu- e as casn hi l ue o lie y w iosind a lacutcantaiith eets “p siness e a d the liuirlli k ip w s n t t o licio . Thii tt pa awo oih, in Hes lsiders tesea esaeqdh e ah conmo-s r f razzlek tl of seoalini . The drabsk, when o oe soaues fully take in our surroundings. The first thing that strikes you is that the en s unmlace iveo d by ao cocce og s. Thaht miger a y re f cros et g th , a li le poet t, fa oy ingn initih t o s o erb le, a little pos spe f Jseurcea so much a celtic tiger te th t’ hro ll by defini t a con n dockes tail. ot a millio s made oke if dra er ies f th lited-limn d space lik n ires t ut os, stawi s (agod mt on mos y t of the ry that p obreviding a hote a a s smsae that I watio h y, nnt lososhte p ethinoe thrhtthold (es g er ut o he mi sasts of Joturcea y, vus - a 37